Volvo 740 breakdown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- The Volvo 740 GL has let me down! A minor breakdown and now fresh coolant for the big brick.
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In over 20 years of ownership my '90 740GL has only given me trouble two times while on the road. Once was with the crank position sensor the other time was with the heater control valve. Neither time was a trip ender. With the CPS I just waited 15 minutes or so until the engine cooled and off I went. (I later replaced it.) With the HCV I was close to a public tourist centre with a source of water and was able to bypass the broken plastic valve and get it home. One thing that will ruin your trip is if/when the top hose connector on your rad snaps off. They're plastic and over time - 15 to 20 years - become brittle and snap off. So, keep a close eye on that.
Great video. If you aren't sure when last the PCV system was serviced, it is good to do. The oil separator and flame trap clogged will cause all sorts of fun oil leaks. Amazingly, people will spend the money to reseal the engine and not do that service, so the new seals all leak almost immediately. Oftentimes the PCV service will stop the leaks without doing the seals at all.
I use the PlastX on Arthur. Here in North America, even the headlamp lenses are polycarbonate. 30 years on, and my lights are as clear as new. You will have better luck with the PlastX if you smear it in with a cloth, then let it set and haze before you polish. It takes a little time to neutralize the oxidation. Brand new tail light assemblies are available. Check eBay. Swedish Car Parts sells them, for one. They are much better than any used one will think of being.
At less than 140,000 miles, your Red Block is just nicely run in. These really are million miles engines. I'm coming up on 400,000 miles on mine and still goes like new.
Agreed - PCV definitely good preventive maintenance - from memory, the hoses to/from the flame trap get badly gunked too. The system on this engine doesn't seem to be common knowledge for all mechanics and I don't think it was in the Haynes either, I only found out by querying a mechanic at my local Volvo indie; so you can see how it is missed/ neglected.
Congratulations and sincere commiserations on one of the first documented cases of a Volvo taking a dirt nap. I hope it ends well as this has been my personally favourite of your "furious fleet"
Now THAT is something rare. A Volvo breaking down
Yeah incredible!
I noticed that this engine has to turn over a few revolutions before it fires. There is a trick to starting these, especially when cold. This was shown to me by a very experienced Volvo technician.
Obviously never touch the throttle before or during turning over the engine.
Turn the key briefly so that the engine turns one revolution, then let it sit for about ten seconds. When you turn it again the car will start on the very first turn.
will have to try that
May have been damp in the ignition...
Why should't you press the pedal when cranking? I had a B200E 240 that I used to do it on all the time.
mosquito it will flood the engine for one
@@mosquito4010 I'm assuming it was carbed? That's normal
This is why most Japanese car brands use those steel spring type hoseclamps, they don't really rust and they apply active clamping force on the hose.
Way better then those jubilee clamps.
Ford Australia used the spring steel clamps too - so you know the real reason is cheapness and speed.
Of all the channels I follow, you are my number 1. The cars you like are the cars I like too. Nothing fancy, just fun. And your Volvo is a beauty. I have driven tons of kilometers in 740's and 940's. Almost unbreakable.
Thanks! Great to hear that
Bad luck but glad you got home safe. Only thing is I was always told you should use distilled water to top up the cooling system, not normal tap water as the minerals in tap water can cause internal corrosion in the cooling system.
He certainly shouldn't put tap water in his Rover V8 that's for sure.
Many years ago, I was in Woburn Abbey lion enclosure with my family on a very hot day, over 80 in old money, in my Mk. 2 Zephyr. It was very busy and the traffic only moved up a few yards at a time. I noticed the temperature gauge soar way over maximum and was afraid it would boil over, so I stopped the engine and put the heater on full blast, which did the trick. I had to repeat that several times and we really did have to sweat that out because, being in the lion enclosure, we couldn't open the windows to let the heat out.
I love the sound of the redblock - so distinctive. Also the Draper DA sander is identical to the Halfords version too 😁
On my 740 I just sanded my faded Tail lights with 600 and 2000 grid sandpaper and than spray painted them with 3 layers of clear coat. They turned out amazing and it was only about 25 € for the clearcoat and the sandpaper.
The top hose stub sheared off my 740's factory-fitted radiator in the summer of 2006, leading to an almost total loss of coolant. Luckily, it waited until I was 100 yards away from home before it did (I'd been driving at motorway speeds mere minutes before), so no harm was done. The replacement Nissens radiator I bought from GSF is still perfectly serviceable :)
My Volvo 740 did the same on the way home after I had bought it :P
Turned out the head was bent. Now it's working fine though :D
I love it when some random person comes to your aid. That happened to me years ago when the rotor arm failed on my former Bond Equipé 2Ltr. I called the AA out and whilst he was looking at my car, this helpful man came to my aid, went home and gave me a proper Lucas one (made in the UK. He owned a Triumph 2000, handy!). New one on the car it burst into life. He repaid him some bear and an original R/A from my spares. Sold the car the following day.
By the way I have used some Autosol one the headlights of a Jaguar X-Type that we used to own and also the ones on our 75, it worked quite well. Pity they make headlights out of cheap plastic.
in the 19 years i owned and ran a 740 estate as my daily driver it broke twice . once was the headgasket which was not hard to do the second time was a grey coloured relay which was just plug out and swap i do regret selling it it was a nice drive
Watch out for the white backup lenses, they crack at the glue, feel if they are loose before you loose them on the road.
Actually all of the lenses. At some point or another I have had to reattach all of the lenses on both sides of my 1990 240 Estate. I just replaced both with new units from Swedish Car Parts in the US. The pair were $180 CDN, including shipping through eBay.
@@michaeltutty1540 okey, the first ones missing here in Sweden are the white ones, I don't think they stand the test of ultraviolet light and the very air surrounding them. They get brittle.
just like my sierra, old cars rarely fail, if they do its usually easy and thats not bad for a 32 yr old car just a bad jubilee, these cars literally can be fixed roadside most of the time, ive had to once, love the oldies
Glad it was an easy, cheap fix. I think we all love the idea of a cheap old car that just keeps going and defies depreciation. I love that it is used as daily too. Long may it continue
A dead cat - I had one but it broke, and the replacement was for the wrong mic
Remember when Engine bays were large but you could actually see in them?
Love this car and I'm not even counting that as a breakdown ! Just a normal (and minor) wear and tear replacement, expertly handled. I have a 2002 XC70 and previously ran a 1987 240DL. My family have driven Volvos since the 1970s and they are great.
top tip if you dont want to buy a radiator as well, DONT lean or clamp the hoses to close to the radiator as the radiator gets really brittle and is prone to break... yes i have done it yes i was told to be careful....
Hope that’s not oil emulsification in the coolant. Could be increased pressure in the cooling system that caused jubilee clip to fail. Drive it for a while and you’ll soon know whether head gasket is gone.
Yes, and do a compression test!
Theres nothing under the cap and the water that came out was clean so I dont think there is a failure
For the tail lights, you can try some fine grit wet and dry (1000 grit then move to 2000) to get rid of the oxidised layer, then polish again. I did it recently then used Autoglym Super resin polish and they came up like new
"Scunge" - You mechanics and your technical terms.
Sorry didnt mean to baffle you
Scunge is also the term used to describe those useless things found in the House of Commons, more commonly on the Tory side, but increasingly on the opposite side too these days. It's a big problem, and nowhere near as easy to deal with as an old Volvo unfortunately.
Nice video again! Just a minor hickup due to poor hose clamps. You can use a heating gun on those bumpers. Works on all 2,7,9 series time after time.
I have a similar USA orbital polisher and soft pads and have also found that polishing plastic doesn't seem to get the required result - I think it needs a harder pad for plastic surfaces - you would think not if it can cut paint lacquer but it seems that 'softer' finishes need a harder pad - I would also remove the lenses and give them a proper clean on the inside - the reverse lamp lens looked like it had crud inside - no need to replace them
I'm going to find some harder pads and have another go, it still needs new lights but interesting to see
I was thinking "a Volvo can't stop working"... And I was right, it was only a tiny economical thing. What a marvelous car
My old 740 GLE estate never gave any engine cooling problems. I remember mine had a light under the bonnet.
The HG could easily still be duff, as it may have failed from Water jacket to combustion chamber. The oil runs may still be perfectly sealed. Get it up to temp and whilst running, see how hard the pipes are. If they are harder than expected - HG has indeed gone.
My BMW E60 gave my engine an unscheduled wash whilst sitting in traffic on the A1(M) one morning. A plastic hose coupler failed. Still, after 260,000 miles (at the time) I let it off that one.
Lovely Jubbly, always entertaining in a good way.
I had a 940 turbo do the same --- those red block engines are tough ! As for cleaning up lenses I use Autosol chrome cleaner(in a tube) best stuff for doing lens in my opinion
Heh, my Ople Arsta did the same thing to the turbo downpipe last week. Just popped the jubilee clip off the mount though, I've never seen them snapped in two.
Oh sir, that was quite a spectacular leak, at least those jubilee clips are not expensive!
Another great video, I do love a blue interior and I've valeting products over 10 years old, in my mind they don't go off! 🤣
Well, not a complete disaster. Hopefully all is okay. A weekly check should avoid a major disaster.
Well done Matt!
Yes, hose clamps are service items. I'm not sure that stainless steel ones are actually any better, they don't corrode, but they can stretch as they often seem to be softer than standard steel ones...
To get the lights looking a little better, wet flat them with some 2000/2500 grit wet and dry, then polish. It'll take most of the oxidised material off them. The polish as you did, then use a wax to protect from oxidisation
I’m not knocking it or anything, I love those old Volvos, but do all sound like a diesel?
Hi Matt,the engine bay cleaned well,as for a hosepipe clamp it's done good for a car,the rear lights are better with the DA on them.
when i first started the video I thought you'd had a engine fire, looks like the left overs of you taking a fire extinguisher to the engine
That is marketing. JAaa
Ideal time to flush out the cabin heat exchanger with garden hose ready for the winter!
14:34, I can see some rust there...
I'd leave the hoses honestly when rubber goes bad it'll be either hard and cracked long before its bad enough to burst. Rotten bit of luck though with that clamp
They feel soft enough, a few miles left in them
The residue left over around engine bay looks like quite white/chalky - it maybe diddnt have enough anti freeze and had too much water in it.
Also, wonder if reluctancy to start was because the water sprayed over ignition components?
My wife once topped up the header tank of her 740 turbo with a gallon of screen wash rather than the washer bottle. The car just shrugged it off. Never a problem.
Glad one of Sweden's best is back after its faulty hose clip decided to throw a wobbler, glad you all good to continue with its future.
These are tough cookies and getting rare. I have a 31 year old 240, bought it new. Ok it’s not as rapid as new cars today, but I wouldn’t sell it. Tip for next time, these engines have a coolant drain valve on the block, left side looking towards the car. Keep up the good work.
ill take a look for that
Love the sound of these old Volvo engines. I had a 360 GLT. Such a lovely sound. Glad it’s all ok. Scunge is now a word 😄
You will quickly learn that Volvos are so intelligent that they gently can remind their owners that they need things replaced like a drop link or a brake caliper or indeed a new hose clip. In fact many many slightly different noises, vibrations or smells are specific car/owner communications regarding maintenance required. Always under control, no drama, no disaster. It's as if they are living things, not pieces of machinery. Love this big bus.
They were nice cars, with luxury features as standard, room for 5 adults, reasonable luggage or shopping capacity and comfort thrown in at no extra cost as is the Volvo tradition. Safety with Swedish style!
What coolant was in the engine to make such a light coloured mess? From memory original Volvo coolant was red although when I used to do my own maintenance, stuff from motor factors wat generally green apart from Bluecol, which was of course blue
Christopher Martin the white deposits look like my car after I had a hose pop off while the system was hot and full of rad flush. It was a real nightmare to clean it all off as it was bonded on to all the surfaces like cement.
Actually Bluecol was invented by a staunch Conservative call Colin. The colour is just a coincidence.
Actually Volvo coolant for 740/940 is green ---- still got square can of it in my garage
Glad to see the old moose back to health again! Check eBay for the rear light clusters, theres always some around and still being made buy some patter part companies. Not too expensive, too 👍🏼
Nice to see a positive outcome from a breakdown!
But did u use the tea shelf?😁
not at the roadside
Just been for a couple of pints at our local . First since lockdown. Then we come back and FD had uploaded a video . Job done . Thank you
Good cheap repair that's what I like to see it's a good car them Volvo's
You should use that plastic plish on the plastic bumpers and then finish it with a plastics shine, they will come out really nice! Cheers. - Volvo Addict
check the detailing video on this car...it looked incredible once Id done all that
Glad you got the volvo fixed matt. Quick question where did you get the engine cleaner from? Comes up nice, all the best - Tom 👍🏻
Its Diamondbrite, good stuff - amzn.to/2C3gEvm
@@furiousdriving cheers matt. Keep up with the good videos. Really enjoying your channel bud 👍🏻
I am pretty sure Lakes Volvo are open now. Drove by the other day and there were people about, give them a try.
Might be even all the original jubilee clips such as the quality of the good old Volvos never seen white antifreeze before
I had a similar problem with my poverty 1.4L Sandero. Well, not similar. But, in my case it was a plastic thermostat housing that seemed to have had deformed a bit (not visible) from age (and thermal cycles), and was leaking coolant. I bought a no-name one for less than 3 Quid. And it managed to last 800 km before it started to leak again. It turns out, those cheap hausings are not as flat as they should be, and the thermostat O ring was not enough to seal it (not even the silicone that was added). The direct plastic to metal is designed to seal it. Very strange. Anyway, since there was no name brand aftermarket one, I had to buy an original one for 30 something Quid, and since then it is sealing without problems (without silicone) for thousands of km.
Matt, spend the 30.00 quid and change the hoses.
I think they feel supple enough to last a while longer!
Glad Moby recovered without too much of a problem. You really have fallen for that old bus Matt. Many thanks for the video.
I had a 740 with fading lenses and a buff and a coat of clear laquer before each mot was good enough for the 7 years i kept it.
That was a lucky save but what sort of coolant makes all that white stuff? Looks like lime scale. Brasso is the easiest and best stuff to use on dull lenses and most plastics. It works a treat and takes very little effort, just a couple of clean rags, and you don't need to muck around with power tools. I have used it many times on lenses just as bad. Volvo lives again! Cheers.
wonder if it had run on plain water for a while to get that kind of colour?
That sounds quite likely now that you mention it.
Clean out the "filter" in the oiltrap underneath the intakemanifold before the engine starts venting crankhouse gases into the rearmounted distributor cap. It will make it hard to start if not attended.
I wasnt aware of that filter, thanks for the tip
I don't know about the smaller Red Block, but on my mom's old 2.1 and my 1990 2.3, the distributor is at the front of the engine. You are right, though, the flame trap and oil separator do need servicing on these engines about every 12,000 miles.
Yes, it is metal original on older engines and plastic on newer ones and the one you get if you want to buy a new one, still, they clog with oil and condensated water. It sits in the pipe that the hose to the intake is attached to.
@@michaeltutty1540 strange, I thought every fuel injected from at least 1987 has the rear mounted one..... but if you have a 240, these don't fit the space and are front mounted.
And make sure the nozzle in the intake manifold and the hose isn't clogged as well.
Had the same happen on my 360, though it only leaked (a lot) after being ran and parked up. That jubilee clip rusts underneath and you can't tell from a visual inspection! You'll be very unlucky to do a head gasket on one of these!
Luckily no damage to the engine! Small part failure, huge impact! I adore those over engineered bonnet hinges.
Headgasket, the white coating is oilmixed coolant?
no, oil and water look clean
Oohh, that's rotten luck. But even the best of cars can have a hiccup from time to time. Still think it's a beauty.
The other hoses might be older than you think. If they had been changed in the recent past, you would have expected to see newer jubilee clips around them.
Hope it’s not the head gasket and hope you are staying safe and well and brilliant video as always
luckily not to serious
My old Astra blew the outlet pipe off the radiator, and blew the head gasket in the process.
It might be worth a couple of layers of lacquer on the rear light, should bring a decent shine back to them
Blowing a head gasket on these engines needs some effort to do. I've seen broken clamps on several customer cars and mine too. Here at northen countries at least coolant has been originally green. There may be a tap for the coolant empty in exhaust side under exhaust manifold for the third cylinder. If new coolant color turns fast. System is very dirty and maybe full of cement.
One of my hose clips on my 740 did the same thing.
You don't put tap water in car engines. De-addonized water is cheap and readily available in most supermarkets.
Very selfish of the Volvo to have not done that during lockdown for some impromptu breakdown content! Looking forward to the next Merc video... having my own Audi based K-jetronic woes at the moment. About to order a metering unit rebuild kit...
Metering or distribution unit? The distributor was tricky but doable, I didnt know there was a rebuild kit for the metering unit, might need one of those
@@furiousdriving I mean the same thing when I say metering unit - i.e. fuel distributor that you've already rebuilt. My car has been sat for a long time as well, but I've now got two injectors spraying nicely but nothing coming out of the fuel distributor at all for the lines to the other 3 injectors (it's 5 cylinder). I've been through the warm-up regulator, cold start injector and am getting good volume just before the fuel distributor and on the return to the tank, so I think there must be a blockage in the fuel distributor itself. Like yours, it runs nicely on easy start! So frustrating... If that doesn't work, I'll have to get a pressure gauge and start doing all the proper tests!
When it was idling after topping up the water, the engine does sound like its got a bottom end knock.
It might be worth taking the sump off and fitting fresh big end bearings to avoid damage to the crankshaft if the originals ever did let go.
You can access and replace them just by removing the sump? :O
really its the microphone, it sounds nothing like the video in real life
furiousdriving Yes I was going to say that on a lot of these videos certain sounds really pick up and are exaggerated. Still amazing everyday technology...
@@DashCamSerbia you can yes. Once you drop the sump you remove all the bottom caps (holding the bottom bearing shells) and then with your 2 thumbs you can push each piston up a few cm (maybe 1 inch) and then replace the top bearing caps from the bottom of each rod. Reassemble and refill the oil and drive gently for the next 500 miles.
You can even chain the main crankshaft bearings from underneath too.
I am very pleased 😊 you have put another video on the Volvo at least it wasn't too serious it was just the jubilee clip thanks once again
Volvos just need a little of love and they dont' let you down. Just as dogs are.
09:45 It's a Diesel in disguise!
So unlucky to break down, my 1988 740GL never let me down... at least it was fixable roadside, not like todays cars, that would be an engine stripdown to fix that leak
Glad to see the old girl just blew a hose, but like you I can't remember a jubilee clip ever failing...on anything. Very odd, but ultimately an easy fix. For any teenagers watching, cars used to be fixable on the roadside with some spanners, screwdrivers and Allen keys. It was a hundred years ago when dinosaurs and Volvos roamed the Earth. Dinosaurs died out cos we could repair Volvos quicker than they could run and eat us. Fact.
Front wheel drive Volvos can suffer this same problem with the lower radiator clip. Out of sight out of mind and I think incoming rainwater also drips on it. When it pops due to rust all of your coolant goes very quickly. If you have a FWD Volvo it's worth checking. Replace with stainless.
you should be using Deionized water basically boil the kettle
Why mixing coolant with hosewater??
Shock horror, what a Volvo breaking down, oh no what is the world coming to.
Preventative maintainance is better than the cure, sometimes with old rad hoses you trim a little off the end and get a fresh end to put back on. yes it did make a mess.Rad hoses, cambelts etc if you can change them yourself not that expensive, if going on a longer trip, a smart move!
Maybe you could give that exhaust manifold a spruce up with silver VHT paint 😎👍🏻
Stainless steel jubilee clips and a proper jubilee screwdriver, money well spent.
You did the Vovlo thing on purpose this time right? 😃
And best wishes to the car 😉
yes..but now Ive changed my mind..
Those jubilee clips are made in England by the company who came up with the idea, en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jubilee_Clip
They suffer like Hoover, everyone calls those by their brand name regardless who made them!
@@furiousdriving Not here in Sweden, they are just "Slangklammer" Hoseclamps! :)
I would have spotted it, but to have spare jubilee clips ;-) on me. I would have conjured something else up to get me home, the water was ok in the circumstances.
A self-locking car, I'd be calling a locksmith out at least twice a week!
Holy crap...got the same thing back in 2018 with my Fiat 127...
And like you I had the engine deep cleaned and then boom, explosion and the engine was coated in a orange disgusting color! Yeahhh...rust...
What is the engine cleaning product you use please.?
You should've changed the t valve.
Luckily this is an easy fix and no biggie. It’s ready for another 300k lol
Did you managed to get back in the car at the end due to the locking issue?
Wow you have some stones, I would never put my body so close to a boiling cooling system.