TAMIYA CLEAR PAINTS "HOW TO" GUIDE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Time for another scale modelling & weathering "How To" guide by www.scalewarmac....
This time, we are explaining Tamiya's Clear Paints (and their Smoke Paint).
These are watersoluable semi-transparent shades designed to help you get a realistic finish on your models. Tamiya is a name synonymous with quality and we love their paints.
You can use them neat or diluted and apply by brush or (ideally) by airbrush. We use both Tamiya Lacquer Thinner and their X20A Acrylic Thinner.
In this film you will see the paints used on the following models;
Tamiya 1/35th scale GMC 2.5t Truck
Tamiya 1/35th scale Char B1 Bis
Revell 1/35th scale Artilleriewagen Draisine
Academy's 1/35th scale M113 ACAV
Tiger Model 1/35th scale VBL
Revell's 1/24th scale VW Golf GTi
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Thank you so much for making and posting this video. I don't do car models, I do gunpla and this has been a great education and I cannot wait to apply what I've learned!
Again "how to" produce an excellent tutorial to enhance any modellers skill set - thanks guys
I’m also trying to achieve the bullet proof glass look.
I found your comment helpful. Thank you for sharing.
I'm glad I found your channel. The way you explain the techniques is much better than what I watched before.
One of the most useful how-to's I have seen. The use of the clear colors to tone down, adjust saturation and so forth is something very logical and somehow escaped my imagination. Thanks for an informative video which will allow me to use color more effectively, efficiently and will save myself time stumbling around for ways to adjust colors.
Thanks a lot!
TY mate, I have used these paints with your help to spruce up my models. TY
Extremely useful and informative video. Thank you for putting this together.
Fantastic ''how too'' many thanks had the Tamiya clear range for years but only used for clear parts now the possibilties are endless ;)
Master model builders fascinate me. I build motorcycles. I can't even begin to be at these peoples levels. Outstanding.
Even i am 42 years a modeler already, but this video help me a lot, thank you so much. Greets from Germany
Excellent video! Very professionally done.
Thank you for a very interesting tutorial. I have these paints, and I don't use them very often, other than the occasional scifi/terrain piece. Although the things that I try to do usually work out fairly well, and as I originally intended, I suppose that I must consider myself a fairly inexperienced modeler. The main reason for that has to be, that whenever I see one of you highly experienced guys pick up well finished and highly detailed model, and aim an airbrush full of orange paint at it, I get a sense of panic. Honestly, the little voice in my head would definitely be screaming 'what are you doing?' I think that's why I love to watch an occasional tutorial by scale war machines among others. The information is always useful, and the inspiration is, well inspirational; but, the courage to actually try some of this craziness is probably the greatest benefit of all.
Once a modeller is confident enough to strip off paint and start all over or pull a paint finish back from the brink due to patient repair work, well that opens a sort of willingness for him or her to try adventurous techniques. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. We have no preferred paint range or set style we follow each time, half the fun is simply messing around with this stuff to see what new weathering effects can be created. Safe in the knowledge that you can always strip it off and start again or repair! But rarely does it ever get that radical. However, strip back a few old models and repaint and you'll feel way more confident knowing you can rescue a kit if things go bad.
Very true. I've made a few saves, including a complete strip thanks to a can of testors dullcote that had gone bad in ways chemistry simply can't explain. Like most midnight modelers, solo finaglers, or crazy cellar and garage type engineers, making clever uses out of what you have hand is usually half the fun. Well... that and scaring the neighbors. Thanks again for the content.
AHA! Stumbled on this video as I'm darkening and weathering props with Tamiya Smoke. The thinner was just the tip I needed to fix a problem I'm having. Thanks!
Thanks for the video...I've been trying to replicate the bullet proof glass on model WW2 aircraft...I've obviously made the mistake of painting these by brush and making the paints pool and hence not consistent over the whole glass...I'll try spraying...Looks a lot more realistic in this tutorial...
Wow, you are an absolute wizard with the airbrush! I just got mine, and haven't gotten to use it quite yet, as there was a lot of things I needed that I forgot to get, so I'm still waiting for the last few essentials, but I'll be watching a lot of your videos to get a grip on things, I can tell already!
Great video. I had in fact discounted these, just as you said, but very keen to give them a try.
You are the best. A great help for me. Thank you!!
I never thought of using the clear paints in the way but I certainly will try!
Awesome! I have them but until now have only used them for the lights on builds.
Very happy I ran across your videos and subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Absolutely wonderful video. I have these paints sitting in my shelf. Now with this demistration. I have multiple uses for them. Thank you very much for sharing these techniques
Great video!
Excellent tutorial and great tips. I just bought all clear paints by tamiya just for the heck of it, but now I see they really have a lot of aplications other than just painting metallic colors on super hero figures :O
I love these videos...I learn more and more techniques from them. Thank you for these gems
That's it now! I'm going to have to experiment on something now! Already use the clear paints for getting some outstanding wood effects on WW 1 biplanes but for the uses you have highlighted in this video, I wouldn't haven't have known about!
I am making a diorama in 1:35 with a PZH 2000, Leo 2a4, flakpanzer gepard, and 5t man truck and this helped alot. THANKS
Great video and tutorial. Very useful and informative. Good to see that you went back to the normal format and video lenght. Thanks for sharing. Ive already liked on FB
Great upload. 👍👍
I am just getting into car modeling and airbrushing and my first car is done with a silver base coat and clear red top coat for a sharp metallic candy finish. I will definitely be using your smoke with low-pressure tip to put some oil / dirt splatter around the exhaust. Thanks!
I am building that truck!
Great tips!
2:14 I’ve used humbrol clear matt varnish and my build turned from black to having white dust on it and I couldn’t remove it with water so u know a method to remove that
Got to use a strong thinners type solvent or paint strip it back and repaint I'm afraid.
im not into models at all, random clicks got me here.. but damn I know how to appreciate master-like painting and you got a sub from me. looking forward to seeing more about this world i have no clue about!
Thanks a lot, we hope you enjoy it!
A very useful video, thanks. Plenty of ideas for using these paints other than simply for lights and smoke stains. I have a build that has suffered that horrible grey, dusty look. I might actually try this technique to see if I cant bring it back.
Fantastic lads, always wondered what I was going to use these for.
Great tip! Going to try this today on M48 and M113 ACAV!
I couldn't see any diffrence on a lot of them, but i liked the effects that i did see. Great video.
Thanks for this video, I had been thinking of getting tamiya clears for a while, but it was hard to find good information on how to thin them, if they would pass through an airbrush and how their finish whe dry was.
Just so next level...I can't even imagine pulling this off
Thanks for this. I have been using the red and yellow for turn signal lenses. Now I have some other ideas.
Good content, thank you.
Artists call this "glazing". Very handy technique. You can also make your own clear paint by mixing any color with clear varnish or Vallejo's Glazing Medium.
Chris Bumgarner thanks I wondered about this.
Is is possible to use the clear paints with hand brush? Or do i nees to use the air brush?
Best with an airbrush but in certain circumstances you can brush paint (e.g. painting inside coloured lights and lenses).
@@scalewarmachines will still be clear br then?
Yes, though it will be thicker so slightly less transparent.
guys! that was awesome! I'll be using these techniques on my upcoming Gundam kits!
Thank you kindly for the work you do on the video's. I find this fascinating, can be applied to my aircraft modeling, Cheers!
Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing
I have and use Tamiya clears... but not in this way! Really brilliant video thanks for sharing
Very useful indeed.
Great for tinting LEDs also.
Excelent viedeo and idea for the clear colors!
great educational video, subbed.
GREAT HOW TO VIDEO
great video
How would these paints work out if I tried using them on a coloured, transparent plastic part?
Some interesting/useful tips on using this medium, but no mention of thinner ratios of air pressures and very brief on airbrushing clear parts - basics
Please forgive us that unsanctionable oversight. We will find it very difficult to carry on now.
LOL :)
Hey mate great video. I thin Tamiya acrylics 2.1 ratio. 2 parts paint, 1 part thinner, does the same apply to these clear paints, many thanks
Hi - sorry for late reply, yes pretty much the same, depends what opacity you are after but they generally need to be thinned the same way.
Top Class work
You just won a subscriber mate
Very niceeee....
GREAT HOW TO VIDEO KEEP THEM COMING
I don't play war games, I may but I really just like miniatures and these are still really cool
so I have a quick question, when sealing my applied decals on an airplane, made a rookie mistake of not masking the clear plastic canopy leaving it dull without a glassy effect. I know Tamiya makes both lacquer and acrylic paint. which is best to brush on to revive the canopy. my inclination is to turn to a lacquer due to it applies strong and hard. don't want to damage to plastic or seal created by the glue. any advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated. in advance, thank you for your return reply.
regards,
brian
Tricky, never encountered this scenario. I’d say lacquer or a product like AK Interactive’s Gauzy agents could be the way to go. I’d replicate what happened on some scrap transparent plastic, like the canopy sprue and do some tests to see which method works best. Spraying will always be better than brush, but your tests will show you what works and give you a low risk way to find out.
Very informative and useful video! :-)
I use Tamiya X-27 Clear Red for miniature painting, usually using a brush for blood effects, or painting it directly over MDF bare wood for that lacquered armor effect (seen in old east Asian body armor).
It tends to get gummed up rather quickly, not just on the brush but in the bottle as well - will using the X-20 thinner avoid this? What about water?
I know its an old video but I need some help, I painted a model bronze green but paint looks a bit blue, will clear yellow help bring the green back? Thanks in advance
Maybe a bit of green and yellow should do the trick 👍.
This was an awesome video I have several of the transparent colors from Tamiya I don't have their thinner I usually just try to send them with distilled water as our hobby shop doesn't really carry their thinner I do have a question though I'm going to try to use the red to cover a couple live transparent domes that go on the warp engines of a model of the Enterprise that I'm planning on trying to light up the problem is is that I'm not really sure how to airbrush the clear domes so that they come out looking even I'm afraid that when I airbrush it I'm going to get a darker pattern in one spot a lighter pattern in another and I'm just not going to get an even coat any suggestions on how to do that? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and I thank you for your time.
Spray on the inner surface of the transparent part and build up gentle even coats from a fair distance away. Take your time and test on scrap first if you feel uneasy. Good luck!
I recently finished my 1/72 F104G model and I only used TAMIYA XF paints, which are acrylic. I’m an average modeller so I didn’t weather or anything, nor do I have an airbrush, so when I took to painting the model in tamiyas X-35 Semi gloss clear it started to dissolve the paint underneath, thankfully I didn’t do too much and it was easily fixable but I’m super confused as both paints are acrylic
Tamiya paints are hybrids really and some are lacquer based and can attack each other. Always seal between with something neutral like Klear/Future and test in small areas first - as you did. Also brush painting will agitate the paint below and will apply paints in thicker consistency which can reactivate the paint below (as with all lacquers style paints). You can chemically "reawaken" some paints by applying more coats - the solvents within react and soften the paint.
@@scalewarmachines ok thanks for the reply! I have a bottle of future so I might try that from now on, thanks for the explanation it helps a lot :)
i can really use the streaking method on my tanks, funny is that i didnt even get them because of that, i got the to paint wine bottles that cam with the kit.
also, the char tank, i see ut in so many videos,did you take them at once and just upload them one after another or do you take your time and work slowly with it
All our builds have been filmed (over years!) so we tend to raid the video library as we need it rather than publish build videos in purely sequential order. We can take our time and concentrate on the videos theme that way rather than doing a Vlog type build diary dictated by the stages of the model or weathering process.
Scale War Machines oh that is interesting, even though you would be the perfect channel for step by step builds or kit reviews
how do we get purple?
How do you paint a translucent part another color while maintaining its translucent appearance?
By making new coloured paint coats so thin that light still passes through, making it remain trans-lucent.
if i airbrush the X-7 color RED gloss with lacquer thinner, will it look glossier than if i use tamiya thinner x-20A??
Yes it will.
What thinner do i need to use for tamiya clear colors for airbrushing
Tamiya X20A acrylic thinner or their lacquer thinner, either are good.
My Samus Gunship is gonna be so good
I’m building the Tamiya 1/6 Honda 750 it is molded in gold ,can I spray silver over the gold ,then Tamiya Clear orange to get the orange colour the bike came in nice work by the way🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Sure go wild. But maybe test on some scrap pieces first. However, the principle works.
Dumb question, but can I use clear as a stand alone colour?
Not dumb but sure you can but as it's semi opaque, translucent you get terrible coverage, so it tends to work best as an adjustment colour.
Very useful video. What pressures did you use with the paints?
Tend to be around 1.5 bar but hard to tell as we also have a MAC valve (regulator) on some individual airbrushes.
Are there any issues with hand brushing them on larger clear plastic parts? (I don’t have an airbrush)
They might not be great. Fine for things like turn signals, lights etc. Might need to do some tests for covering larger areas or for filters and colour changes. The risk is brush marks with these paints and possibly damaging the underlying coats when applied by brush.
Ok
I tested the red and orange on clear spoons and I see what you mean there are brush strokes, but unless you aim the. towards a light or something, it looks good imo
He guys, great vid!
Would it be possible to make a tutorial for the airbrush with respect to when do I use which air pressure with which color for which purpose (e.g. base coat, fine streaks, etc)?
I've watched so many airbrush tutorial vids and still haven't found what I'm looking for. I'm currently using my airbrush w/ around 0.5 - 1 bar for any purpose, w/ questionable success..
Thx a lot in advance, either for trying to help or at least for reading my comment!
Have a great day!
It depends on many, many factors including the type of airbrush and compressor - but it's a great idea. We will certainly bear it in mind for a future video.
Thank you! :-)
Is this good to spray over silver or steel paint to make it harder (durable) ?
That might work yes, especially with lacquer thinner but always use on a test model first, you don't want to ruin your finish.
Well that just answered everything
how much should you thin the clears?
The usefulness of these paints is astounding!! Increasing saturation adds a special touch. Just a question ... I'm starting to use Vallejo paints, if I put Tamiya paints on top, will they be compatible? Thanks for your tutorials, they help a lot.
As long as they're dry there's no problem. We do that all the time - e.g. Vallejo Primer with Tamiya Base coat/Top coat on top.
Thanks, I will try soon. I'm getting first steps on this. I can barely master the airbrush yet. :)
Does anyone know how I can get a mettalic paint look ? I seen on another video that you can first put chrome paint on the model first then put a transparent colour over the top would this work ?
Yes will work, look for motorbike or car tutorials, this is often used with Clear paints to capture the blue, purple, orange hues seen on aluminium tail pipes or engine exhausts from repeated hot/cold cycles.
Hi. Would you recommend thinning the paint if you're hand painting things like goggles or windows?
Yes certainly, you can use lacquer or X20A thinners.
@@scalewarmachines what's the difference between the two?
Lacquer is very smelly and toxic to breathe, it dries harder and glossier. The X20 will dry matter and not be as tough.
Hi just one questions i am a beginner.
when you mix the paint to brush the glass parts do you add thinner to the mixed paint?
I used the same colors from tamiya
You can use thinner or straight, depends how intense you want the colour. Always test on a scrap piece of transparent but you should be fine either way.
The base will be Testers silver and Tamiya Clear Orange will there be a problem
Don't see why, let the silver dry fuly and apply thin top coats. If it's Testors enamel, it will be especially resistant under the orange. Acrylics could inter-react but test on a scrap piece to be safe and it's unlikely if each coat is fully dry.
Hello, can we mix these paints to acquire other color ranges? Thanks for the video.
Yes you can intermix them.
2:34 - Woah, Lacquer not Acrylic Thinner? Or do you just find it more effective for airbrushing? I actually have some of these Clear Acrylics, but I'm only limited to hand-brushing.
6:23 and 6:56 - Did you thin that paint before handbrushing? What did you use?
7:01 - By painting the underneath in silver, what do you mean? Paint it silver first before the clear color? Or paint the one side with clear then silver on the other?
2:34 - lacquer seems to work better with the clears. No thinning for hand brushing, straight out of the jar. 07:01 paint under side of clear plastic part in silver, turn it over and paint the coloured plastic the clear colour you want (in other words the front face of any light in clear).
Awesome.
Hi! Is there other kind of thinner that we can use on the “clear paints”?
Tamiya Lacquer or Tamiya X20a. Probably there are others (GSI Levelling Thinner?) but we've stuck so far to Tamiya and not tried others.
To what degree would you thin these colours down?
I only ask because while some of them, like red, have airbrushed fine and clear, my attempts to use blue on windows actually made them semi-transparent and opaque, and I had to clean them off and brush paint instead.
It really depends on the effect desired. Start with small amounts of paint to thinner and work up. In the video we're diluting pretty much 50/50 and using airbrush coverage to determine the colour intensity.
Scale War Machines Can I do it with Mr Hobby Aqueous?
Is the clear coat tamiya nesesary
No, we don't use it.
What type of matt varnish is that?
Without looking it's probably Vallejo Matt Varnish - that's the one we always use and at the start the one that went grey was certainly Vallejo. Think it was in the black label bottle from their chipping set - so maybe it's Vallejo Model Air. Usually though Vallejo Model Color Matt Varnish is what we use and is normally solid and dependable.
Очень интересное познавательное видео ))
awesome video. just realized i know nothing
Candy red
OK… Serious question here… Is the continuous use of the third person a cultural thing that is just unique to Brits?
If you're talking about how he says "we", that's first person plural, not third person. It's because he's either presenting from the perspective of the channel as a group, and/or including the viewer in the instruction on how to do something: "we do it like this".
The latter does tend to be a British English trait.
Blame the Queen. Maybe it's the Royal "We" with a spot of editorial "We" for all those behind Scale War Machines thrown in for good measure. Plus, "We" like it.
We think it's ridiculous.
I was thinking the narrator was a member of a scale modeling studio, like a team or something.
👍🏻
Clear red and gun smoke is all I use, I'm into collecting horror memorabilia so I guess I don't need to explain the colour I'm going for 🙄
I thought you were actually Ashens for a good 3 minutes xD
✔✔✔❤👍👍👍
Great video! You might want to back off on the audio whooosh effect!
Sometimes I enjoy a good whoosh a little too much...