Oh boy, this was perfect timing. My mate just told me the other day about a strange issue he has with his rear brake. Tomorow we were going to do a brake bleed, but as it turned out, I showed him your video, he checked his bike and found a damaged brake line at the frame stop. Thank you! Might have never thaught of that!
Does your mate have Shimano breaks? seems this only happens with original Shimano hydralic hose...never heard any issues with SRAM or Jagwire (are there any other brands at all)?) SRAM hose looks more robust and thicker..probably this is the reason they don't bend and break.
@@rafaelwiater4523 It's SRAM. The damage seems to be more subtle. Also the "bubble" that appears when you apply pressure is much much smaller. You cant' realy see it, but you feel the brake hose expand.
@@simonfischer4795 Servus Simon. Ohh wow. Good to know it happens to SRAM hose, too. So I will look for any other solution than for thicker hoses. Initialy I thought going for Jagwire, but now I think it won't solve my problem neither.
You forgot another thing: the scales. I bet I'm not the only one who is curious to see the difference both between the Open and the Trek, but also between the 'old' Open and the 'new' one. Great video, as usual. Thank you!
I had to swap the rear brake hose on my 2021 Emonda. Without the fancy Park Tool tool, what worked wonders was to use a mechanical brake cable, insert it into the hose, then pull the hose out, basically what you did. When inserting the new hose, I just reversed the process and I was able to guide it super easily. Definitely a hack/bodge for those on the budget.
The story of the Open update and the repairs to the brake line is interesting and entertaining as usual. However, my favourite part of the video was the riding in the forest. Please sir, may we have some more!
Can we fix it? Yes we can. When you demonstrated that lever it gave me a shiver of fear. Think thrilling mountain descent, sharp corner approaching, brake, brake, braaaaake. A pants filling moment. Good tools are always a pleasure to use. Stay safe.
OMG I had this on my S-works Venge on some Dura-Ace R9170 brakes!! The bike shop changed the lever the first time, did not solved the issue. Then they changed the lever again and the rear caliper, again did not work. They finally changed the hose and it solved the issue! No fees since it was all covered under warranty but we never knew what was the issue until this video!!
I had this exact same problem a few days ago. It was really frustrating isolating the problem. The kink was much more subtle than yours was, and I assumed the problem was either the lever or the caliper. After swapping these and eliminating them as the problem, we replaced the hose and everything was fine. Miserable way to waste many hours of your life, but satisfying in the end that it was only the hose and not the actual lever or caliper.
Useful video, thanks for showing that. Hadn't considered an issue like that before, made me more aware towards my own disc brake bikes. The damage to the handlebars was surprising. Glad you noticed it before you rode with them any further. Keep showing your great videos, really enjoy them.
So a guy at Ebay was selling for parts a Shimano lever cause of that problem ! , If only he knew and i knew sooner, i would be the owner of fully working ultegra lever ! LOL Thanks for that awesome video.
I have an Open UP and had the exact same problem, hose bend. For my case, it was caused by airplane traveling and associated disassembly. I removed the handlebar every time I packaged into a box and had to bent hoses in a very tight angle. Eventually, I had the same strange braking. Kink took place at the exactly same location too.
Thanks for turning me on to the TNI stem, I love it... impossible to find here in the US but I was lucky and found some on Amazon Japan and in total cost me $46. I replaced the torx bolts with titanium hex and final weight came in at 94.5g!
When building my road bike around christmas, I also had a "ghost leak" problem using an aftermarket braided steel brake line. Thought those should be an improvement - and while it's true, they should be, i couldn't get them to fully seal on the pins. Problem was, each time i installed a new pin + olive, for the first few pulls i had awesome brake pressure, then instantly had that pressure drop in the STI. In my last attempt to bleed the brakes before a slow maiden ride down the road the outer brake line housing broke, covering my flat in mineral oil as it sprayed across the room. :)
Another reason for a issue like this, if someone still searches for solutions, is that sometimes when assembling brakes from J-kit some of the factory seal can get inside the hose and block it partially. I've had this. Pulling a gear cable all the way through the brake hose solved the problem.
Had same issue with the "ghost leak" on my Open UP...the bike was maybe 3 months when it happened. In my case the hydraulic has been compressed also when I turned the steering bar all to left, even without using the levers...was fun when going downhill left corener and the rear wheel went in a drift-mode ;) My bike dealer solved it by replacing the hose only...not really a solution I guess and only a matter of time it happens again. Interestingly Andy (from Open) never heard about this issue before - back in early 2020 - probably April, when I asked him. My setup is with Shimano GRX di2 levers, Shimano original hydraulic hose, internal routing in a Enve G-Series bar and a little shrink-tube around di2 cable and the break hose.
Same over here. I had it twice since June 2020 when I changed from Sram Force to GRX. Before with SRAM it never happend to me in 3 years... Since I really like the GRX di2 levers and groupset I am still looking for a solution. Let us know if you find a solution :-)
I actually like the UP more than before. Gravel frame with gravel groupset... much better in my opinion :) Looks amazing and surely it has to ride the same. Keep it up mate, love your vids !
Mine did the exact same thing, except while I was squeezing the lever in the stand like you, the hose finally exploded and dump DOT fluid all throughout the inside of the frame. It was running out around the lower headset bearing. That obviously led to entire teardown of the bike. Open needs to revise the cable port so the little bolt doesn't weaken the hose.
Yokozuna Motoko/Juin calipers with internal hydraulic piston action allows you to run Mechanical cable with hydraulic action and not dealing with crimped hydraulic lines, sipping fluid, and constant bleeding. There are less industry driven options that are quality alternatives than going full circle back into true weight weenie rim break mode... quality stuff, thanks for sharing your experience.
I had a similar problem but turned out the ceramic piston in the rear had a crack in it. Didn't want to wait around for a warranty caliper so installed hope rx4 in the rear, grx still up front. Grx rear is still on backorder.
A very close step spring with the inner diameter similar to the one of the outside of the hydraulic line and with around 4cm in length with a bit of an insertion by the frame will prevent kinks just like guitar cables used to have it. I believe that heat shield would also do - longer though, but the spring is far more resilient.
This was great - you should make the description of the video more... descriptive, so people can find it if they encounter the same or a similar problem.
Well imho a „known issue“ on the Open frame. Had this on mine, too after approx 10.000 kilometers. During a ride the hose was completely damaged at the inside of the small part which is installed for guiding the hose into the frame. Pulled the leaver: no braking. Pretty shocking on the open road when approaching a crossing 🙈😩
The damage on the handlebar looks exactly like there is a fitment problem. Either the handlebar is oversized at the clamping area or the stem is undersized. The bar is easy-ish to measure with calipers but the stem not so much usually. The giveaway is the sharp marks on the handlebar where the stem clamp edges are, a properly sized clamp/bar combo can in no way generate those types of marks because the corners where the clamp is split cannot have dimension smaller than the bars.
Tobias ,the Hydro cable kink will happened again for sure,wait for another month or so,depends how often the handlebar twisted..Ive dealt with this issue for a while,the culprit is the multistop entry was installed tight (Tiny bolt in the headtube) so there’s no room for the hydro cable to slide when turning,its been perfect for a year now after the fix.I love my open,,
The bag is designed for turning the bars left to the left for a bunch of different reasons. (Either way, I don’t really take the train with the bike nowadays since I moved out of Tokyo)
amazing video again. Great sound and video quality. The intro shots were amazing, the content informative and the jokes had me laughing my ass off the ahah 😂😂
I have the 3T Superghiaia bars on my gravel bike and these marks have also appeared around the lever clamps 😞. All torque within specs. After contacting 3T and showing them some pictures, they said it was OK. Even if it is, it's not something I like very much...
@@tomcruz3774 No further explanations. However, the marks on my bars are not anywhere near the depth as seen in the video. Mine are more like small indentations, so although I don't like it, I don't believe mine will turn into cracks. I first noticed the marks about a year ago. I recently re-taped my bars and changed my stem (about 7.000 km later) and the marks haven't become any worse.
The open frame doesn’t lend itself to particularly clean looking install with internal bar routing. I had the same issue this weekend with my Open using Pro vibe bars - looked cack so I went with internal Di2 routing, external brake hoses. Looks much cleaner and less likely to kink the hoses
Hi Russell - interesting info - thank you. I am waiting to get my hands on a set of carbon discovery bars to go onto a new UP frame and was going to try to route the hoses internally but may revise that part of the plan hen the bars arrive...finally
The cracks on the bar could be caused by the stem clamp. All things that clamp carbon should have rounded edges. Carbon inherently flexs and when it does it creates a point load on the sharp edges of the clamp. This causes the cracks. So even when you torque things up correctly you can still get cracks. It's nothing that can't be solved with a file to round off the edges of the clamp.
I'd be surprised if the stems he's been using are like this. 3T carbon aero style handlebars have a reputation for cracking all over the place - and particularly at the clamp. Layup schedule is either wrong or quality is very low, or both. I'd steer well clear. If you want light weight aero bars get Mcfk @Rides of Japan
The same exact gouging happened with my Easton E100 Handlebars (never over-torqued either). Interestingly enough, measuring the clamp area it is 31.8mm in one direction and 32mm in another. I hope this can help someone else out there. I wish I would have measured them before installing and riding them (I would have sent them right back).
😨 That poor handlebar - and your knee, too! How do you personally find ergo bars? I'm considering trying some out in the future (if stock ever comes back in, of course) and curious what your experience was/is.
@@Antioch18x the superghiaia’s? I loved the pretty much everything about them apart from the internal brake routing. I would definitely do them external if I got another bar.
I think the ULNA on your other bike and these Gravel 100s are both "ergo" in that they have flatter/aero shape in the tops (instead of a completely round shape on the EC70 AX). That's what I meant. It looked like you prefer the flatter bars now and I wanted to ask about that. :)
Thank you for another fix of bike nerdery. It's a cherished form of sustenance although I could blame you for my current agony as I got an Open Up frame in December and as soon as it arrived, ordered a GRX Di2 groupset and I am still waiting...and waiting....and waiting. Brexit + pandemic = misery (yes, I know, seriously, there are worse things going on it the world) Please make another bunch of scenic ride vids soon...I have re-watched the old ones tons of times and I think I could be for a while yet.
My 3T aeronovas did exactly the same thing at the clamp section. I only ever used a torque wrench on them with max 5Nm. Would love to hear if you get anywhere with 3T. Let me know if you need pics to convince them that its not your fault but theirs.
Long time fan who has just bought a 3T Aeroghiaia (after seeing your Superghiaia video ages ago and finally being able to justify it). Did you ever get to the bottom of the 3T Bar? Did they warranty it? Or did you trace the problem back to a potentially undersized stem clamp area on the Extralite stem or the changed recommended torque to sub 2nM as some of the others have suggested? Trying to not be worried about my new bars ha.
Sorry never sorted it out… out of sight out of mind hehe However, the marks didn’t line up with the extralite stem, so I have a feeling it was from the UNO stem… which never was over 4nm so still not over the recommended torque. I wonder if they did an silent update to the bar, because they seem to be way heavier now than my bar was. Aeroghiaia has a redesigned top anyway (I imagine) so shouldn’t be any issues, but definitely register you bar with 3T for the extra warranty etc to be on the safe side.
@@ridesofjapan Thanks for the reply mate and the very helpful info (as always). Yes I noticed that the weight has increased (not complaining, V2 revisions always a good thing). Will be sure to route it all external (I've also pinched a cable from an absent minded bikepacking handlebar bag). Will be using it with an Easton stem which has the top lock design (torque the top two bolts, then tighten the bottom two evenly) which should hopefully negate this potential issue. Keep up the good work. Loving the content. Your production values are through the roof since I first got onto your channel (mimicked your first 1x road conversion all those years ago). 🤙
In this video same camera inside and outside, Sony a7s3. Lens is mosly 35mm 1.8 in the bike room, outside 20mm 1.8 Normally it's a gopro for video outside though
Same Issue, same Position on my Open Wide about 6 Months ago. 😂 In my case no internal routet Handle Bar, no Backpacking. So i think its the OPEN routing wich breaks it once in a while
Any update regarding the handlebars, Superghiaia? I have the Aeroghiaia version with the Hyperstem... Those bite marks looks really bad!! I know I read the first version of the Hyperstem from 2015-2016 hade the same issues and it is supposed to be fixed since then... (WW forum)
No update, don’t expect anything to be honest. I’m lazy and it’s already out of sight out of mind for me. My extralite stem was the new “fixed” version with chamfered edges. However, the marks never lined up with extralite stem so I’m thinking the Uno stem was where it started.
Question about the MT-900 Shimano Rotors. How are they? One website claims they are lighter than the Dura-Ace. Do they maintain the straightness when they really heat up or do they rub when they get hot? I use Campagnolo rotors currently but they rub when they get super hot. And, do you prefer resin pads or metallic pads?
Check this video where I’ll show actual weight vs da. th-cam.com/video/-Q590MNTz6M/w-d-xo.html I prefer them over da, and they seem to keep straight for me. I use resin pads always.
I would never use an Extralite Hyperstem again. No matter how careful I was, the stem clamps left marks on two of my carbon bars. I thought my Deda Elementi carbon bar's wall thickness was too thin. My second carbon bar from Pro has the same bite marks after a while. Something like MCFK is a whole lot better than Extralite Hyperstem. Oh and I heard Extralite Hyperstem will leave bite marks on carbon steerer tube as well. I have not experienced this, but bye Extralite.
Tobias, you have the wrong title for the video. The correct title should be: "How many innuendo's can I include in a cycling video about faulty brake lines". You naughty boy.
@@ridesofjapan I see! As a trail runner, I have been in many trails around the Green Line. I have seen some mountain bikers sometimes, but never a gravel rider. Must be fun, regardless :)
Oh boy, this was perfect timing. My mate just told me the other day about a strange issue he has with his rear brake. Tomorow we were going to do a brake bleed, but as it turned out, I showed him your video, he checked his bike and found a damaged brake line at the frame stop. Thank you! Might have never thaught of that!
Does your mate have Shimano breaks?
seems this only happens with original Shimano hydralic hose...never heard any issues with SRAM or Jagwire (are there any other brands at all)?)
SRAM hose looks more robust and thicker..probably this is the reason they don't bend and break.
@@rafaelwiater4523 It's SRAM. The damage seems to be more subtle. Also the "bubble" that appears when you apply pressure is much much smaller. You cant' realy see it, but you feel the brake hose expand.
@@simonfischer4795 Servus Simon. Ohh wow. Good to know it happens to SRAM hose, too. So I will look for any other solution than for thicker hoses. Initialy I thought going for Jagwire, but now I think it won't solve my problem neither.
You forgot another thing: the scales. I bet I'm not the only one who is curious to see the difference both between the Open and the Trek, but also between the 'old' Open and the 'new' one. Great video, as usual. Thank you!
The riding noise in the intro is so satisfying
I had to swap the rear brake hose on my 2021 Emonda. Without the fancy Park Tool tool, what worked wonders was to use a mechanical brake cable, insert it into the hose, then pull the hose out, basically what you did. When inserting the new hose, I just reversed the process and I was able to guide it super easily. Definitely a hack/bodge for those on the budget.
The story of the Open update and the repairs to the brake line is interesting and entertaining as usual. However, my favourite part of the video was the riding in the forest. Please sir, may we have some more!
Can we fix it? Yes we can. When you demonstrated that lever it gave me a shiver of fear. Think thrilling mountain descent, sharp corner approaching, brake, brake, braaaaake. A pants filling moment.
Good tools are always a pleasure to use.
Stay safe.
OMG I had this on my S-works Venge on some Dura-Ace R9170 brakes!! The bike shop changed the lever the first time, did not solved the issue. Then they changed the lever again and the rear caliper, again did not work. They finally changed the hose and it solved the issue! No fees since it was all covered under warranty but we never knew what was the issue until this video!!
I had this exact same problem a few days ago. It was really frustrating isolating the problem. The kink was much more subtle than yours was, and I assumed the problem was either the lever or the caliper. After swapping these and eliminating them as the problem, we replaced the hose and everything was fine. Miserable way to waste many hours of your life, but satisfying in the end that it was only the hose and not the actual lever or caliper.
you've just brightened up my afternoon.
Useful video, thanks for showing that. Hadn't considered an issue like that before, made me more aware towards my own disc brake bikes.
The damage to the handlebars was surprising. Glad you noticed it before you rode with them any further.
Keep showing your great videos, really enjoy them.
So a guy at Ebay was selling for parts a Shimano lever cause of that problem ! , If only he knew and i knew sooner, i would be the owner of fully working ultegra lever ! LOL
Thanks for that awesome video.
Well done diagnosing and solving the ghost problem
The GRX looks good at your open! 😉
Another common reason for this is a damaged master cylinder seal. But this is something new to me and something to stay aware of!
I have an Open UP and had the exact same problem, hose bend. For my case, it was caused by airplane traveling and associated disassembly. I removed the handlebar every time I packaged into a box and had to bent hoses in a very tight angle. Eventually, I had the same strange braking. Kink took place at the exactly same location too.
Thanks for turning me on to the TNI stem, I love it... impossible to find here in the US but I was lucky and found some on Amazon Japan and in total cost me $46. I replaced the torx bolts with titanium hex and final weight came in at 94.5g!
Hey, do you have a link for that? Tia...
Great vid. Shows why it's important to do a regular tear down. Bro, keep shredding the gnar and I'll see you out on the trail. Peace🤘
When building my road bike around christmas, I also had a "ghost leak" problem using an aftermarket braided steel brake line. Thought those should be an improvement - and while it's true, they should be, i couldn't get them to fully seal on the pins. Problem was, each time i installed a new pin + olive, for the first few pulls i had awesome brake pressure, then instantly had that pressure drop in the STI. In my last attempt to bleed the brakes before a slow maiden ride down the road the outer brake line housing broke, covering my flat in mineral oil as it sprayed across the room. :)
Excellent brake hose replacement tutorial. Thanks
Great vlog again, such attention to detail.👏👏 Bonus riding shots at the end were good too.👍
I had the same issue on my 3T bars a couple of years back, but mine spun under me on a speed bump..Great video as always, thank you!
Another reason for a issue like this, if someone still searches for solutions, is that sometimes when assembling brakes from J-kit some of the factory seal can get inside the hose and block it partially. I've had this. Pulling a gear cable all the way through the brake hose solved the problem.
Sad that I just missed out on buying your frame! I appreciate how carefully you care for your gear!
I like the aggressive look of the GRX leavers.
Love the innuendos. Great info and also entertainment. Cheers!
In-Your-Endo
Had same issue with the "ghost leak" on my Open UP...the bike was maybe 3 months when it happened. In my case the hydraulic has been compressed also when I turned the steering bar all to left, even without using the levers...was fun when going downhill left corener and the rear wheel went in a drift-mode ;)
My bike dealer solved it by replacing the hose only...not really a solution I guess and only a matter of time it happens again. Interestingly Andy (from Open) never heard about this issue before - back in early 2020 - probably April, when I asked him.
My setup is with Shimano GRX di2 levers, Shimano original hydraulic hose, internal routing in a Enve G-Series bar and a little shrink-tube around di2 cable and the break hose.
Same over here. I had it twice since June 2020 when I changed from Sram Force to GRX. Before with SRAM it never happend to me in 3 years... Since I really like the GRX di2 levers and groupset I am still looking for a solution.
Let us know if you find a solution :-)
@@lars_internet have you found any solution that would fix the issue permanently?
I actually like the UP more than before. Gravel frame with gravel groupset... much better in my opinion :) Looks amazing and surely it has to ride the same. Keep it up mate, love your vids !
😁👌🏼 excellent! As always, humorously and instructive, typical RoJ-Style. Thanks, Tobias!
Mine did the exact same thing, except while I was squeezing the lever in the stand like you, the hose finally exploded and dump DOT fluid all throughout the inside of the frame. It was running out around the lower headset bearing. That obviously led to entire teardown of the bike. Open needs to revise the cable port so the little bolt doesn't weaken the hose.
Yokozuna Motoko/Juin calipers with internal hydraulic piston action allows you to run Mechanical cable with hydraulic action and not dealing with crimped hydraulic lines, sipping fluid, and constant bleeding. There are less industry driven options that are quality alternatives than going full circle back into true weight weenie rim break mode... quality stuff, thanks for sharing your experience.
I had a similar problem but turned out the ceramic piston in the rear had a crack in it. Didn't want to wait around for a warranty caliper so installed hope rx4 in the rear, grx still up front. Grx rear is still on backorder.
Man that's a brilliant idea with the clamp to hold the bar tape prior to putting the electrical tape on.
I had a similar issue with a 3T bar on my U.P. No ghost leak, but it was difficult to route the hose cleanly.
A very close step spring with the inner diameter similar to the one of the outside of the hydraulic line and with around 4cm in length with a bit of an insertion by the frame will prevent kinks just like guitar cables used to have it. I believe that heat shield would also do - longer though, but the spring is far more resilient.
As always great video.
Close call at the end....great save, and, all the planets have realigned, ✌️👍.
You never miss, man; another great video!
Man this seems like an issue that one could lose their mind over, I could totally see myself overlooking the kink in the hose!
This was great - you should make the description of the video more... descriptive, so people can find it if they encounter the same or a similar problem.
Brilliant video as per usual! Highly entertaining and informative
Great stuff - proper bike maintenance inspiration.
very helpful, and quite humorous! keep it up! 👍🏻
My 3T Aeroflux handlebar looks exactly like yours in the clamping area!!! I contacted 3T and they said it is ok. Still have a bad feeling when riding.
I look forward to seeing your new bars once everything is back in stock. 😂
Well imho a „known issue“ on the Open frame. Had this on mine, too after approx 10.000 kilometers. During a ride the hose was completely damaged at the inside of the small part which is installed for guiding the hose into the frame. Pulled the leaver: no braking. Pretty shocking on the open road when approaching a crossing 🙈😩
Seriously love your content... Thanks man!
Just like always, another intuitive and fun videos ❤️🚴👍🏽.
The damage on the handlebar looks exactly like there is a fitment problem. Either the handlebar is oversized at the clamping area or the stem is undersized. The bar is easy-ish to measure with calipers but the stem not so much usually. The giveaway is the sharp marks on the handlebar where the stem clamp edges are, a properly sized clamp/bar combo can in no way generate those types of marks because the corners where the clamp is split cannot have dimension smaller than the bars.
Tobias ,the Hydro cable kink will happened again for sure,wait for another month or so,depends how often the handlebar twisted..Ive dealt with this issue for a while,the culprit is the multistop entry was installed tight (Tiny bolt in the headtube) so there’s no room for the hydro cable to slide when turning,its been perfect for a year now after the fix.I love my open,,
Mine slides, So I expect it to hold another season or two (the hose I swapped lasted since the original build 2years ago)
@@ridesofjapan Judging from the video, it seems better to turn the handlebar to the right when you pack it for a train ride.
The bag is designed for turning the bars left to the left for a bunch of different reasons.
(Either way, I don’t really take the train with the bike nowadays since I moved out of Tokyo)
amazing video again. Great sound and video quality. The intro shots were amazing, the content informative and the jokes had me laughing my ass off the ahah 😂😂
3t bars are known for developing marks at the stem clamp area like that. It happened on my track bars as well.
I have the 3T Superghiaia bars on my gravel bike and these marks have also appeared around the lever clamps 😞. All torque within specs. After contacting 3T and showing them some pictures, they said it was OK. Even if it is, it's not something I like very much...
@@ibe966 Did 3T say anything else? I would be worried that the marks, even though they're okay now, would eventually turn into cracks
@@tomcruz3774 No further explanations. However, the marks on my bars are not anywhere near the depth as seen in the video. Mine are more like small indentations, so although I don't like it, I don't believe mine will turn into cracks. I first noticed the marks about a year ago. I recently re-taped my bars and changed my stem (about 7.000 km later) and the marks haven't become any worse.
Both pronunciations of lever are correct depending on where you live. Now you don't have to get angry every time 😁
Man! You might try the ESI grips road bar tape now that you don’t care about weight any more... 🤣🤣🤣
Great video and one of my favourite chanels!
As usual perfection on the bike :)
Haha! Yes, a smile to my face after watching the vid, mahalo (thanks)!
The open frame doesn’t lend itself to particularly clean looking install with internal bar routing. I had the same issue this weekend with my Open using Pro vibe bars - looked cack so I went with internal Di2 routing, external brake hoses. Looks much cleaner and less likely to kink the hoses
Hi Russell - interesting info - thank you. I am waiting to get my hands on a set of carbon discovery bars to go onto a new UP frame and was going to try to route the hoses internally but may revise that part of the plan hen the bars arrive...finally
5:36 ..... OMG SO PERFEKT!!!
Great show, great work
another great video. Thanks!
beautiful, it's as if a 10 year build-up of suppressed dirty puns finally got... release 😂
Cheers brother!
As always, I really enjoy your videos. Quick question, what model sunglasses are you wearing? Thanks and keep up the good work!
Oakley evzero stride
Request for a Ride in Japan ASMR Video of you just riding singletrack. Thank you
Second this
ROJ BTS?
In both "lever" and "llever" version.
The GRX Levers look fugly but I'm really intrigued to try it because of the great reviews of the ergonomics of the shifters.
Thanks. Great vid
Great intro!
Ever since Hambini did that Open vid I dont see them the same.
The GRX levers feel really good.
I heard Pragma BB shells are trash
Good, helpful vid. Cool and ty!
The cracks on the bar could be caused by the stem clamp. All things that clamp carbon should have rounded edges. Carbon inherently flexs and when it does it creates a point load on the sharp edges of the clamp. This causes the cracks. So even when you torque things up correctly you can still get cracks.
It's nothing that can't be solved with a file to round off the edges of the clamp.
I'll stick to alloy bar and stem as it can handle the pinching/clamping forces much better; to me carbon is not worth the risks.
I'd be surprised if the stems he's been using are like this. 3T carbon aero style handlebars have a reputation for cracking all over the place - and particularly at the clamp. Layup schedule is either wrong or quality is very low, or both. I'd steer well clear. If you want light weight aero bars get Mcfk @Rides of Japan
What is the container in water bottle mount @ 0:45 ? and what is the mounting hardware? :)
The same exact gouging happened with my Easton E100 Handlebars (never over-torqued either). Interestingly enough, measuring the clamp area it is 31.8mm in one direction and 32mm in another. I hope this can help someone else out there. I wish I would have measured them before installing and riding them (I would have sent them right back).
love your humor. keep it up.
I enjoy your videos informative and funny 🌟🥇
Great video like always! Could you please tell me what saddle bag you are using on the OPEN now? That one that is visible on that video? Thanks!
th-cam.com/video/e2w3ad04CyE/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
What about your old EC70 AX Carbon bars? Or have you decided that ergo flat/oval tops are the future? :)
th-cam.com/video/wOXSW3TuYJQ/w-d-xo.html
:)
😨 That poor handlebar - and your knee, too! How do you personally find ergo bars? I'm considering trying some out in the future (if stock ever comes back in, of course) and curious what your experience was/is.
@@Antioch18x the superghiaia’s?
I loved the pretty much everything about them apart from the internal brake routing. I would definitely do them external if I got another bar.
I think the ULNA on your other bike and these Gravel 100s are both "ergo" in that they have flatter/aero shape in the tops (instead of a completely round shape on the EC70 AX). That's what I meant. It looked like you prefer the flatter bars now and I wanted to ask about that. :)
@@Antioch18x yep, prefer the slightly flatter shape as long as I can wrap it in bartape. Pure aero bars is not really my thing though.
This video should be rated 18+ !
Thank you for another fix of bike nerdery. It's a cherished form of sustenance although I could blame you for my current agony as I got an Open Up frame in December and as soon as it arrived, ordered a GRX Di2 groupset and I am still waiting...and waiting....and waiting. Brexit + pandemic = misery (yes, I know, seriously, there are worse things going on it the world)
Please make another bunch of scenic ride vids soon...I have re-watched the old ones tons of times and I think I could be for a while yet.
Hi, I had the same problem at the same position at my open up with Sram Red
ABS breaks on bicycle. Could you have used the break lever to push pressure into the hose (instead of the "blow job")?
My 3T aeronovas did exactly the same thing at the clamp section. I only ever used a torque wrench on them with max 5Nm. Would love to hear if you get anywhere with 3T. Let me know if you need pics to convince them that its not your fault but theirs.
Long time fan who has just bought a 3T Aeroghiaia (after seeing your Superghiaia video ages ago and finally being able to justify it). Did you ever get to the bottom of the 3T Bar? Did they warranty it? Or did you trace the problem back to a potentially undersized stem clamp area on the Extralite stem or the changed recommended torque to sub 2nM as some of the others have suggested? Trying to not be worried about my new bars ha.
Sorry never sorted it out… out of sight out of mind hehe
However, the marks didn’t line up with the extralite stem, so I have a feeling it was from the UNO stem… which never was over 4nm so still not over the recommended torque.
I wonder if they did an silent update to the bar, because they seem to be way heavier now than my bar was.
Aeroghiaia has a redesigned top anyway (I imagine) so shouldn’t be any issues, but definitely register you bar with 3T for the extra warranty etc to be on the safe side.
@@ridesofjapan Thanks for the reply mate and the very helpful info (as always).
Yes I noticed that the weight has increased (not complaining, V2 revisions always a good thing). Will be sure to route it all external (I've also pinched a cable from an absent minded bikepacking handlebar bag).
Will be using it with an Easton stem which has the top lock design (torque the top two bolts, then tighten the bottom two evenly) which should hopefully negate this potential issue.
Keep up the good work. Loving the content. Your production values are through the roof since I first got onto your channel (mimicked your first 1x road conversion all those years ago). 🤙
Have you looked into the Wolftooth bar tape?
Great montage at the end. How much time is spent riding vs. Backtracking to pickup the camera?
Too much, there’s a reason I don’t do many ride-style videos ;)
Any particular reason fro switching from the 3T to the Deda bars?
Would you currently prefer the GRX Di2 ST-RX815 Shifter over the Dura Ace Di2 ST-R9170, for a new Do-It-All Bike?
Ergonomically yes, weight wise no :)
Nice video what camera do you use outside and in your studio? Which lens? Thanks Keep the great content up!
In this video same camera inside and outside, Sony a7s3. Lens is mosly 35mm 1.8 in the bike room, outside 20mm 1.8
Normally it's a gopro for video outside though
@@ridesofjapan Legend I am guessing hero 9 keep the content up I love it!
@@trollife2232 correct! Cheers!
Top notch video.
10 hour video of tire on soil crunching sounds please
Same Issue, same Position on my Open Wide about 6 Months ago. 😂
In my case no internal routet Handle Bar, no Backpacking. So i think its the OPEN routing wich breaks it once in a while
Any update regarding the handlebars, Superghiaia? I have the Aeroghiaia version with the Hyperstem... Those bite marks looks really bad!! I know I read the first version of the Hyperstem from 2015-2016 hade the same issues and it is supposed to be fixed since then... (WW forum)
No update, don’t expect anything to be honest. I’m lazy and it’s already out of sight out of mind for me.
My extralite stem was the new “fixed” version with chamfered edges. However, the marks never lined up with extralite stem so I’m thinking the Uno stem was where it started.
Good amount of lube, hoses, nuts and pleasant experiences here. Approve! Or are my RFSU years playing with my late night head here?
Hi! what's the camera that you are using to record outside? amazing image. thanks
Same as inside, Sony a7s3
Usually don’t take it with me on rides... but wanted some different shots that the gopro wouldn’t be able to get.
once again, PRICELESSS!!!
Question about the MT-900 Shimano Rotors. How are they? One website claims they are lighter than the Dura-Ace. Do they maintain the straightness when they really heat up or do they rub when they get hot? I use Campagnolo rotors currently but they rub when they get super hot. And, do you prefer resin pads or metallic pads?
Check this video where I’ll show actual weight vs da. th-cam.com/video/-Q590MNTz6M/w-d-xo.html
I prefer them over da, and they seem to keep straight for me. I use resin pads always.
I would never use an Extralite Hyperstem again. No matter how careful I was, the stem clamps left marks on two of my carbon bars.
I thought my Deda Elementi carbon bar's wall thickness was too thin. My second carbon bar from Pro has the same bite marks after a while.
Something like MCFK is a whole lot better than Extralite Hyperstem.
Oh and I heard Extralite Hyperstem will leave bite marks on carbon steerer tube as well. I have not experienced this, but bye Extralite.
Can you use that Shimano tool for SRAM hoses?
Yes, should be able to
Tobias, you have the wrong title for the video. The correct title should be: "How many innuendo's can I include in a cycling video about faulty brake lines". You naughty boy.
@Rides of Japan: Do you need a girlfriend?
I was about to ask if you tighten the bolts evenly but I looked again and the damage is on the top and bottom. That is so weird.
Damn what are those shades? They look really nice
Where did you get your hydraulic cable foam sleeve from?
Came with the bike
I kinda like the look of the coil cable cover instead of the shrink tubing
Are those trails around Hanno? Just curious. :)
No, just some very short sections in Tokigawa
@@ridesofjapan I see! As a trail runner, I have been in many trails around the Green Line.
I have seen some mountain bikers sometimes, but never a gravel rider. Must be fun, regardless :)