As I haven't put my own combat patrol together yet you putting together that Rhino really gave me a good heads up on what to do and what to avoid when putting it together. It may be a silly thing for others who will skip over it as a "well, duh!" part of the video but I greatly appreciate it.
This was a fantastic video! You don't see too many assembly videos like this on TH-cam, I really appreciate seeing someone else's process. Really refreshing to see someone going through and describing how they've actually built the stuff.
I'm glad I'm not the only person that struggled with the tight fit. I ended up cutting the plugs off too, so that's a relief that I did the Henry(tm) method.
Even though I don't play all that often I still pretty much only get inspired to paint if i am working on a force or army. These videos are right up my alley.
Brilliant video. Some great nuggets of golden hobby advice. Dry fitting has saved me so many headaches with weird kits or even bad instructions. Will definitely try some of that putty thankyou.
Sprue goo is my go too for panel gaps. I have the same box of sisters and I get where your coming from on the duplicates, as I just paint and not play it's not too much of a peeve but in an army it's good to have individuals unless its marines or necrons. Great video cant wait till the next one comes around.
I had a bunch of that swirling on the heads of a Heresy Beaky kit (and actually worse than that), fortunately i had no intention of using them. Also you mention using the raw active ingredient of plastic cement but imo, although technically cheaper, often these 'skip the middleman' things can be something of a false economy. Think of all the faff (during hobby time), then imagine you're paying yourself minimum wage. The Tamiya has a nice applicator, is designed to be opened and fully sealed easily at the desk and lets be honest only runs out because you dropped it or left the cap off all night.
when I first got into the hobby no one told me about sub assemblies, mould lines and a bunch of other little things that total beginners don't even know to ask about.
I completely empathise with you about using plastic glue after getting used to super glue. On another note, I've found it better to glue the external sides of the deimos after you've glued the base plate so it's easier to jam those sides on to the base plate. I hadn't considered clipping off those tabs though. I always go at it with a file but this may be faster.
Thank you for showing the building section. Invaluable for a beginner. Especially those notes for the Rhino build with the rear door, was a mess for me.
I did exactly the same thing with my sisters rhino. Luckily i had a spare pair of the round doors from a castigator kit and they fit very well onto the deimos kit too.
Loving this Henry. I just finished a single sister model that I got free in a goody bag from my local Warhammer store, following Andy's vid for the black armour. But I've got the Purgatos Mission box to make a start on, so this series is perfect.
I know you headed this off at the pass, but an alternative to the thin plastic cement if you are looking for economy is to use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone). I do a lot of plastic model building and I can buy it a litre at a time at the hardware store very inexpensively. If you are building lots of plastic models, it is a good way to go.
08:00 I am a big fan of using super glue gel as a gap filler. Will fully cure after 24 hours and can be molded and sanded to get a great finish. Especially handy for imperfections where other gap fillers will have a hart time staying put. Also a fan of using gap filler that can handle stripping. Some like these putties you use here will be removed if you end up stripping the model.
I don't have any trouble drilling out the feet in order to install a pin. A normal paper clip coincides with a #68 or 69 drill. You don't have to drill very deep, but I can usually find a path up past the ankle, which is more than enough. I leave the pin long during painting so I can chuck it up in a handle or push it into a cork, then clip it short to pin to the eventual base. Saves all of that dicking around with sprue and super glue, plus it gives the figure a more secure final attachment for handling during gaming.
Enjoying these army projects. I'd like to see you tackle the Tau Pathfinder Killteam next. Would love to see your spin on a classic tau ochre or something totally different.
I’d loved to see that silver paint scheme you didn’t use on some grey knights. I also really liked the brown cloak, definitely wouldn’t have changed that.
Would love to see what you do with the tracks painted on the sprue. Specifically - how do you touch up the parts where they’re cut off the sprue and how do you glue them on seamlessly? Cheers
glad im not alone in the deimos rhino kit not fitting together well. I thought i might have just been missing something in the instructions. I found for me that after i get all the oarts together wrapping the whole thing tightly in rubber bands kept the hull fighting nice and tight. EDIT: should have just kept watching the video lol
I use Tamiya Extra Thin when I have inadvertently run out of plasticweld... plasticweld is as good (if not better 😂) as Tamiya, but it doesn't smell. Breathing it probably ruins your health just as badly, but it doesn't smell.....😅
Prep is constantly under explained, you can’t do a good paint job on a bad model, especially one with more washes and artistic approaches like yours, keep it up and remind people it’s key!
So again sounds silly but I have always used a mould line remover tool and it often is rubbish on fien details and backpacks etc...fancy showing us how you use your knife to do it properly on angles etc? 😅
Awesome vid, but I'm curious; is there any reasoning behind using a rattle can or is it just the arduous-ness of priming multiple models with an airbrush?
Great video, thanks Henry; that tip about the swirls in the plastic is going straight into my arsenal. Any advice about how to make epoxy putty 100% smooth when gap filling? Nerve damage makes a ‘feel’ test unreliable for me and while sprue goo can be sanded to make gaps invisible to the eye, I often end up with little imperfections in putty that can’t be seen until priming. Cheers!
On the topic of customization: Do you plan in adding any details to the models that follows a narrative? e.g. One of the members used to be conscripted in a different unit, but after everyone but her got wiped out she got assigned to this unit a few months ago, that's why she has a little bit more of battle damage on her armour than her new sisters.
glue the bits together as normal, then use Tamiya extra thin cement and squish them together some more, it melts the plastic. Then sand that excess plastic off.
do you think a paint scheme with a more darker royal kind of purple with say white cloth and silver armor as a sub set of agrent shroud would work? Keeping the general color idea of the original order but giving it my own flair? Or would the silver with white be to similar I'd likely attempt to do nmm
Did you add any more of the sisters upgrade sprue to rhe rhino? I am doing precicely this now (adding the sisters sprue to a deimos-pattern rhino). Thanks.
@@cultofpaint That's what I am thinking. I did find some round hatches with the fleur-de-lis on Cults too. A bit expensive, but I figured I'd go all-in. Thanks again.
I bought a Land Raider Crusader last year, the first tank I've ever bought, and thought that swirly pattern was normal so didn't do anything about it. I primed it black and now its just a mess. Its right on the top of it as well so it completely ruined my experience with it and helped lead to a big lack of progress with my Black Templars. I will probably try sanding it down but I really shouldn't have to do stuff like that for such an expensive mainstream kit.
Still kinda new to the hobby and scared to try and kitbash. The sisters feel so small somehow... 😅🤷♀️ Probably not helping that I want to mix them with some chaos marine stuff...
So the glue he’s using is just airbrush cleaner? Is it cheaper to buy as the glue or the cleaner ? I don’t use an air brush so don’t really know . Only herd this once but couldn’t trust it if you know what I mean?
Stupid question: at 5:46 you mention that airbrush cleaner is similar to plastic glue, or at least that is how I understand it. Is this true? Or did I not understand something correctly?
Tamiya Airbrush cleaner is very very close in ingredients to the extra thin plastic glue. Lots of people use it instead as you can buy it in greater quantity for less. I've not tried it personally.
@@cultofpaint Ah I see. I am using Medea cleaner and that is more of a thin soap than a plastic glue. I got a bit confused there. But it is good to keep it in mind. Thank you for clarifying!
Hey, I’m looking for the paint guide for the Order of the White Rose; not bloody rose, not sacred rose. But the White Rose. Painting guide for Order of the White Rose 40k sisters of battle. Anyone with proof of the color scheme is welcome to share here. Thank you
It’s a complete waste of time putting that Tamiya extra thin on surfaces before they’re together. It’s not designed for that, you need the thicker stuff. It’s far better suited to tapping onto the connected pieces and using capillary to spread in the gaps. Then a gentle squeeze for the melted plastic to come out.
![งมหอย จับปลา มือเปล่า หาอยู่หากินแบบวีถีอีสานกับแก๊งเซียนหรั่ง ม่วนคัก! [ขอนแก่น] @Sianstudio](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JEJZg6N-AbU/mqdefault.jpg)
Army projects are my favorite Cult of paint videos ❤
As I haven't put my own combat patrol together yet you putting together that Rhino really gave me a good heads up on what to do and what to avoid when putting it together. It may be a silly thing for others who will skip over it as a "well, duh!" part of the video but I greatly appreciate it.
This was a fantastic video! You don't see too many assembly videos like this on TH-cam, I really appreciate seeing someone else's process. Really refreshing to see someone going through and describing how they've actually built the stuff.
I'm glad I'm not the only person that struggled with the tight fit. I ended up cutting the plugs off too, so that's a relief that I did the Henry(tm) method.
Even though I don't play all that often I still pretty much only get inspired to paint if i am working on a force or army. These videos are right up my alley.
I think I agree, being able to picture a bigger project helps me.
I don't play at all, and don't really plan to ever try. Assembling/painting is just a relaxing pass time to unwind after work
That off-white colour scheme is awesome!
I just started a Sisters kill team for my wife, and I was happy to see your last vid right when I started it, so I had some nice inspiration.
Good timing!
The sweet sweet sultry sounds of Henry! Great Video!
Brilliant video. Some great nuggets of golden hobby advice. Dry fitting has saved me so many headaches with weird kits or even bad instructions. Will definitely try some of that putty thankyou.
I wish I always followed my advice on the dry fitting…..
Sprue goo is my go too for panel gaps. I have the same box of sisters and I get where your coming from on the duplicates, as I just paint and not play it's not too much of a peeve but in an army it's good to have individuals unless its marines or necrons. Great video cant wait till the next one comes around.
I didn't know about the airbrush cleaner/ glue thing so thankyou for the info
Really inspiring me to spend more time on building, I tend to get to impatient and I just want to paint. Cheers guys
I had a bunch of that swirling on the heads of a Heresy Beaky kit (and actually worse than that), fortunately i had no intention of using them. Also you mention using the raw active ingredient of plastic cement but imo, although technically cheaper, often these 'skip the middleman' things can be something of a false economy. Think of all the faff (during hobby time), then imagine you're paying yourself minimum wage. The Tamiya has a nice applicator, is designed to be opened and fully sealed easily at the desk and lets be honest only runs out because you dropped it or left the cap off all night.
I'm with you on this.
I too am prepping for a SoB project. Your vid's have been great for me.
when I first got into the hobby no one told me about sub assemblies, mould lines and a bunch of other little things that total beginners don't even know to ask about.
I completely empathise with you about using plastic glue after getting used to super glue. On another note, I've found it better to glue the external sides of the deimos after you've glued the base plate so it's easier to jam those sides on to the base plate. I hadn't considered clipping off those tabs though. I always go at it with a file but this may be faster.
Great video thanks for taking the time to share the pointers
Man that cannoness looks so cool
Thank you for showing the building section. Invaluable for a beginner. Especially those notes for the Rhino build with the rear door, was a mess for me.
I did exactly the same thing with my sisters rhino. Luckily i had a spare pair of the round doors from a castigator kit and they fit very well onto the deimos kit too.
Loving this Henry. I just finished a single sister model that I got free in a goody bag from my local Warhammer store, following Andy's vid for the black armour. But I've got the Purgatos Mission box to make a start on, so this series is perfect.
This is a video I have been wanting for ages. I hope you will keep doing them for other model types that are a pain to build like Jump Pack marines.
Can't wait to see the rhino painted up really looking forward to it!
this is awesome, glad you did this one.
I know you headed this off at the pass, but an alternative to the thin plastic cement if you are looking for economy is to use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone). I do a lot of plastic model building and I can buy it a litre at a time at the hardware store very inexpensively. If you are building lots of plastic models, it is a good way to go.
08:00 I am a big fan of using super glue gel as a gap filler. Will fully cure after 24 hours and can be molded and sanded to get a great finish. Especially handy for imperfections where other gap fillers will have a hart time staying put. Also a fan of using gap filler that can handle stripping. Some like these putties you use here will be removed if you end up stripping the model.
I don't have any trouble drilling out the feet in order to install a pin. A normal paper clip coincides with a #68 or 69 drill. You don't have to drill very deep, but I can usually find a path up past the ankle, which is more than enough. I leave the pin long during painting so I can chuck it up in a handle or push it into a cork, then clip it short to pin to the eventual base. Saves all of that dicking around with sprue and super glue, plus it gives the figure a more secure final attachment for handling during gaming.
great video as always, can't wait for more!
5:35 In my experience the thicker the glue, the more it has those cap filling properties you mentioned, not the other way around.
Enjoying these army projects. I'd like to see you tackle the Tau Pathfinder Killteam next. Would love to see your spin on a classic tau ochre or something totally different.
A tau kill team is definitely more likely than a combat patrol for them
Great to see your build videos
Wish I'd seen this before I built a pair of Deimos pattern rhinos for my Emperor's Children force 😂 great tips
I think I am going to have to check out this AK putty. I currently use Milliput to gap fill and honestly I find it such a chore.
Awesome! Was wondering if the Sisters Rhino Sprue would work for the Deimos Pattern…
Scar face is from battle sisters i was just painting it today
I’d loved to see that silver paint scheme you didn’t use on some grey knights. I also really liked the brown cloak, definitely wouldn’t have changed that.
Would love to see what you do with the tracks painted on the sprue. Specifically - how do you touch up the parts where they’re cut off the sprue and how do you glue them on seamlessly? Cheers
Il cover that in the tank vid
glad im not alone in the deimos rhino kit not fitting together well. I thought i might have just been missing something in the instructions. I found for me that after i get all the oarts together wrapping the whole thing tightly in rubber bands kept the hull fighting nice and tight.
EDIT: should have just kept watching the video lol
annoying though isn't it.
I use Tamiya Extra Thin when I have inadvertently run out of plasticweld... plasticweld is as good (if not better 😂) as Tamiya, but it doesn't smell.
Breathing it probably ruins your health just as badly, but it doesn't smell.....😅
Ivory wins! So, peer pressure works?
After i'm done with the Imperial guards CP, def gonna buy this combat patrol and stealing the ivory scheme
Prep is constantly under explained, you can’t do a good paint job on a bad model, especially one with more washes and artistic approaches like yours, keep it up and remind people it’s key!
So again sounds silly but I have always used a mould line remover tool and it often is rubbish on fien details and backpacks etc...fancy showing us how you use your knife to do it properly on angles etc? 😅
Awesome vid, but I'm curious; is there any reasoning behind using a rattle can or is it just the arduous-ness of priming multiple models with an airbrush?
I wonder how you approach the Penitent Engine and what the cloak of the sisters would look like if it is all magenta instead of black and magenta
Cool as always.
the "swirls" are caused by temperature differences during the casting process.
Hyped!
Great video, thanks Henry; that tip about the swirls in the plastic is going straight into my arsenal.
Any advice about how to make epoxy putty 100% smooth when gap filling? Nerve damage makes a ‘feel’ test unreliable for me and while sprue goo can be sanded to make gaps invisible to the eye, I often end up with little imperfections in putty that can’t be seen until priming. Cheers!
Do you mean things like greenstuff? If so it’s really hard to get smooth. Either mix in some milliput or use these plastic puttys for smaller fills.
I was actually thinking of Milliput or Magic Sculpt. It looks smooth and I prime and then…oh dear 😂.
You don't blue tac the guns? How do you paint in-between the armor and gun. I do that for mine
On the topic of customization:
Do you plan in adding any details to the models that follows a narrative?
e.g. One of the members used to be conscripted in a different unit, but after everyone but her got wiped out she got assigned to this unit a few months ago, that's why she has a little bit more of battle damage on her armour than her new sisters.
I'd like to do a deep dive narrative project, but im never sure how interesting our personal backstories are to other people.
Can you suggest a good way to fill gaps on smaller sisters models, like for examaple their shoulder join lines? or often robes. TYVM
glue the bits together as normal, then use Tamiya extra thin cement and squish them together some more, it melts the plastic. Then sand that excess plastic off.
I see sisters, I click like :D
Great. Vid!
I think the airbrush thinner stinks a little more than the glue. I do use the x20a and i have a bottle of just the glue
Sororitas are the best!!!
the rhino from this set seems unique to the other sisters rhino..
lots a little differences including that plow
yes, as said in the video, it's the Deimos rhino kit with some of the sisters vehicle extras.
do you think a paint scheme with a more darker royal kind of purple with say white cloth and silver armor as a sub set of agrent shroud would work? Keeping the general color idea of the original order but giving it my own flair? Or would the silver with white be to similar I'd likely attempt to do nmm
i think it could look great. MAybe go dark on the shading for the white
Did you add any more of the sisters upgrade sprue to rhe rhino? I am doing precicely this now (adding the sisters sprue to a deimos-pattern rhino).
Thanks.
A handful of the pieces on there. Missile launcher, bit of filigree that sort of thing.
@@cultofpaint That's what I am thinking. I did find some round hatches with the fleur-de-lis on Cults too. A bit expensive, but I figured I'd go all-in.
Thanks again.
Can I ask what cutters are you using to trim the plastic? I'm having huge issues with clippers going blunt just from cutting through sprue.
Redgrass Games side cutters
I bought a Land Raider Crusader last year, the first tank I've ever bought, and thought that swirly pattern was normal so didn't do anything about it. I primed it black and now its just a mess. Its right on the top of it as well so it completely ruined my experience with it and helped lead to a big lack of progress with my Black Templars. I will probably try sanding it down but I really shouldn't have to do stuff like that for such an expensive mainstream kit.
it is very frustrating
I've tried the Tamia glue but it always evaporates before I can join the parts together. Am I just not using enough?
yeah i just add more
Still kinda new to the hobby and scared to try and kitbash. The sisters feel so small somehow... 😅🤷♀️ Probably not helping that I want to mix them with some chaos marine stuff...
They are much more slender than marine that's for sure! I think you'll be ok mixing in other bits, depending on what they are.
So the glue he’s using is just airbrush cleaner? Is it cheaper to buy as the glue or the cleaner ? I don’t use an air brush so don’t really know . Only herd this once but couldn’t trust it if you know what I mean?
I'm using the glue. When I next run out I may pick up the airbrush cleaner instead.
Stupid question: at 5:46 you mention that airbrush cleaner is similar to plastic glue, or at least that is how I understand it.
Is this true? Or did I not understand something correctly?
This one made me rewind a bit because i thought i had misheard something.
@@WasiKaBooM I just put my airbrush cleaner a bit further away from my miniatures, just in case :-P
Tamiya Airbrush cleaner is very very close in ingredients to the extra thin plastic glue. Lots of people use it instead as you can buy it in greater quantity for less. I've not tried it personally.
@@cultofpaint Ah I see. I am using Medea cleaner and that is more of a thin soap than a plastic glue. I got a bit confused there. But it is good to keep it in mind. Thank you for clarifying!
@@DoctorDroplet yeah, gluing it together with the medea would be quite an achievement!
Sisters!
Best plastic sement is the deluxe plastic magic, and i tried them all. So stay away from the greenstuffworld one
Fantastic video! I really like this kind of videos (if I can wish for the next one? T'au). :)
I’d like to cover something with very little armour next, but tau will certainly get done
@@cultofpaint very reasonable not to do armor after 2 with. :)
The BT and SoB don't get on?!
apparently not
Hey, I’m looking for the paint guide for the Order of the White Rose; not bloody rose, not sacred rose. But the White Rose. Painting guide for Order of the White Rose 40k sisters of battle. Anyone with proof of the color scheme is welcome to share here. Thank you
Boooo Team silver and brown 4ever! Lol it’s gonna luck great anyways :)
It’s a complete waste of time putting that Tamiya extra thin on surfaces before they’re together. It’s not designed for that, you need the thicker stuff. It’s far better suited to tapping onto the connected pieces and using capillary to spread in the gaps. Then a gentle squeeze for the melted plastic to come out.
The master batch hasn't mixed properly in the barrel of the injection unit nothing to worry about