I've had this code come up on my GMC 2017 Acadia. It matches exactly with what their probable cause statement. I've tested this out and recorded my ECT while driving in different manners and the one thing that will cause the code to kick on is driving aggressively. If you let it warm up at start-up for about 15 minutes, you can drive like a bat out of hell and it won't kick on, but jump in and take off and it always comes on. I realize this is a few years old and different make/model vehicle. I've been researching this issue cause it super hard to find the correct part and super expensive to have the thermostat replaced. GMC totally screwed us by putting it in a hard to reach spot 😩🤬
Ty for this video. I’m a 25 year old woman and was able to do this on my 2012 Civic with no issue thanks to you and several other repair videos I’ve watched. I’ve replaced my blower motor, engine air filter, and now my thermostat thanks to helpful people like you giving us these gems. This was my first repair that I’ve done under the hood. I was intimidated at first but once I got going I found the confidence to continue. Thank you for saving me money and keeping me educated on my car. I love my civic! These cars are so reliable and relatively inexpensive and easy to repair when issues crop up. I’m a Honda owner for life. Only ever driven Honda’s and they’ve never failed me. 💁🏽♀️💙
Going thru that right now. Temp falls to about 130ish, fans still turn on normal; but both gauge and scan tool show the drop/rise. I replaced ECT and ran fine while bleeding air out of system. Once I put cap back on - did the same thing. Right now just bled it AGAIN and now put the cap back on about 5 mins ago. Still running good. The temp has not dropped yet. 😁 We'll see what happens
Got this code on my 2013 Chrysler 200. The car doesn't over heat but in real cold weather it doesn't stay hot instead the temp would drop as I start to drive
MY VW Amarok has had a cooling system issue recently where it seemed the water temp was colder than it should be. While driving the car, the temp would be around 84 deg, but drop down to 50deg C. Then sometimes go up to 93-96, but quickly back down. I have had the thermostat changed, and while running the first time, the temp steadily went up to 94deg C and was up and down around that temp, but when idling my car for a while, the temp gauge drops down to 45deg C, and while idling, it stays around this low temp. Is that normal for the temp to be that low at idle?
I have a 2001 Honda accord and last week got this code and already changed the coolant temperature sensor . Should I change the thermostat as well. the car drives fine doesn’t jerk or stall the gauges marks normal . I haven’t changed that part since I got the car so I might do that and if the check engine light comes back on would it be that I need a new ecm ?
It will kick on more during the winter if you haven't warmed up your vehicle than the summer. It has to do with how aggressive you push your engine. Drive real casual and/or warm up before you take off and it tends to not kick on as much. I'm driving the GMC 17 Acadia and have the same problem. I started driving around with my code reader on, and it seems like the actual temp is normal.
My mom's car will read p0128 every once in awhile but I just turn it off because the thermostat has been replaced. Don't know what keeps causing it to come on.
KingDing919 same here. The thermostat is new but I’ll get this code once in a while. I notice that the temperature gage should be a bit higher than it is (just a bit passed 1/4)
Got a p0128 light, it went out, but had the coolant and thermostat replaced anyway. After replacement, the same code came on again...had auto parts store clear code. Couple days later, same one comes on again! Could it be the sensor? Sick of this happening.
@@andresandrade5963 Thank you for the reply! So I had anauto part store guy tell me to do a hard reset, which I disconnected the positive terminal of batttery, for 15 mins. Its been over a week and its not on , so it may have been a stored code.
Sorry guys, just saw these comments. It did stay off after the hard reset, it wound up doing pretty well after that. Unfortunately, it's since been totaled, but mainly I'm Ok. That was a really great vehicle, but the fuel costs for it would've been crazy!
i was getting too hot and changed the thermostat now its tossing me a p0128, coolant looks good , so im thnking its either the wrong thermostat type or a sensor??
I replaced the water pump, thermostat and it still gives me that code. I'm going to replace the damn coolant sensor and maybe the radiator and see if it goes away.
@@blackericdenice yeah my brothers tells you what the code is to I prefer that one cause it’s nice, but having one that doesn’t explain the code is fine cause you can just google it if you have to
got check engine light (p 0128) , replaced the thermostat but the check engine light still on even after driving the car for around 70 miles (coolant level is OK and cooling sensor is OK also) is that normal ? Yeah, the car is 2014 Dodge grand caravan
Did you install the new thermostat in exactly like the original with new gasket, all coolant hoses (I mean all of them) with new clamps, new radiator cap and new coolant? Most thermostats have little pin rod like (bubble bleeder), it you be in at 12 O'clock.
@@angelisone you are like the guy that ask someone if they replaced a battery in something when it dont work lol. What does changing hoes, clamps got to do with the problem?
I have this code pop up on my challenger, I switched the thermostat a year ago. When I checked under my car when the code popped up I noticed a coolant stains. Any suggestions in finding the leak? Seems splattered everywhere at the bottom
@@mikeschmidt4800 found the leaks. It’s coming from the thermostat housing and some bolts surrounding the water pump. Do you think it’s the water pump gasket? Because my car has no overheating issues. Literally only leaking coolant
Taking out the thermostat because you live in a hot climate is one of the more senseless auto myths floating around. It also costs people lots of money in wasted fuel. The thermostat helps the engine to reach operating temperatures quicker, so that the computer can go into closed loop operation. It does this by staying closed, so that the coolant in the engine gets hot, staying isolated from the radiator. Before this, the computer will be in open loop, more or less dumping fuel into the engine, just so it stays running.
I just got another cylinder and a new gasket but it's pop out water when I open the radiator and when I cover it the hose got stronger like it's want to burst please I'm 100% confused help me
@@FlatRateMechanic just did both sensors .on housing and sensor under dizzy and it put the code back on . Did thermostat aswell could it be a stored code with accords . Or is it really my ecm . Car runs smooth now with no other issues so it’s hard to believe it’s the ecm
if this engine check light code was not repaired for long time, what will happen ? i hear loud noise after 20 - 30 min of driving which is increased with pushing on accelerator !!! is it related to unrepaired coolant thermostat ?
It’s supposed to be a driveable code from what I’ve researched (I have the same problem on my e550) but overtime there’s a small chance that water could contaminate the oil from humidity built up that an entirely warm engine would otherwise evaporate. So as far as im concerned it’s a fix as soon as convenient type thing
@@robertokristen8316 no definitely not, I’d take all that i said as anecdotal evidence, just so far from my driving experience with a po128 code, I haven’t had any issues appear, except for reduced fuel efficiency
@@robertokristen8316 I just have happened to be dealing with the same issue as you for a while, and driving on it hasn’t done anything irreversible yet
Hello, i have a 2005 Chevy Aveo. I bought this car a few months ago, but the check enginev light was coming on and off for " cam-shaft position sense" low circuit 1. Car drove fine for awhile. I stalled outna few days ago. I read it could be the cam shaft position sensorn. My brother norice the coolant around the thermostat housing when i had my hood open. I figure knock out 2 birds with one stone. I got both replaced. Thermostat housing and cam shaft position sensor. I drove the car around for 2 days and on my way into work the check engine light comes on, for p0128 coolant below thermostat. My mechanic did ask me to grab orange coolant when going to pick my car up at his house. I told him i had 50/50 in my trunk. Could this be the problem? Or js it stuck thermostat? Or is if coolant thermostat sensor?
@@mattbrooks9928 I already did that… ended up being the thermostat… I replaced with OEM in which I highly recommend only OEM even if it’s more expensive
@@mikelutts7088 I agree. I been working on my friends terrain she had a code for the temp sensor but when we put it on it still had the gauge dropping to c randomly and the code keeps coming back so we are gonna try thermostat next.
@@mattbrooks9928 just make sure it’s OEM. I switched it 2 times and still had the p0182 code and when I put the OEM engine light off and temp gauge working again 👍🏼 it’s cost way more but trust me it’ll be worth it in the long run and less frustrations.
@@mikelutts7088 I gotcha thanks. Had a similar issue in my toyota recently went through two water pumps and two thermostats. Have you had any other issues out of it?
WHY WOULD AN ENGINE LIGHT GO ON CUZ COOLANT ISNT HOT ENOUGH THE ENGINE LIGHT IS A BUNCH OF BULL SHIT THE MEACHNICS RIP U OFF AS IT IS NOW THE GOVERMENT GIVES THEM ANOTHER REASON WITH THESE FING ENGINE LIGHT!
@@paintnamer6403 thanks for this comment..my new truck thru code for low temperature..I checked oil it was sludge..I was TRIPPING OUT! at least I know the 2 things are connected and not separate issues..yes they are priceless
![How to Fix NISSAN P0128 Engine Code in 3 Minutes [2 DIY Methods / Only $7.34]](/img/n.gif)
Here is the link to Mini Code reader on Amazon amzn.to/2OzCtnm
I've had this code come up on my GMC 2017 Acadia. It matches exactly with what their probable cause statement. I've tested this out and recorded my ECT while driving in different manners and the one thing that will cause the code to kick on is driving aggressively. If you let it warm up at start-up for about 15 minutes, you can drive like a bat out of hell and it won't kick on, but jump in and take off and it always comes on. I realize this is a few years old and different make/model vehicle. I've been researching this issue cause it super hard to find the correct part and super expensive to have the thermostat replaced. GMC totally screwed us by putting it in a hard to reach spot 😩🤬
Mine does that’s same thing but I have a Kia optima! I’ve changed the thermostat myself and burped it and it still happens
Ty for this video. I’m a 25 year old woman and was able to do this on my 2012 Civic with no issue thanks to you and several other repair videos I’ve watched. I’ve replaced my blower motor, engine air filter, and now my thermostat thanks to helpful people like you giving us these gems. This was my first repair that I’ve done under the hood. I was intimidated at first but once I got going I found the confidence to continue. Thank you for saving me money and keeping me educated on my car. I love my civic! These cars are so reliable and relatively inexpensive and easy to repair when issues crop up. I’m a Honda owner for life. Only ever driven Honda’s and they’ve never failed me. 💁🏽♀️💙
Going thru that right now. Temp falls to about 130ish, fans still turn on normal; but both gauge and scan tool show the drop/rise. I replaced ECT and ran fine while bleeding air out of system. Once I put cap back on - did the same thing. Right now just bled it AGAIN and now put the cap back on about 5 mins ago. Still running good. The temp has not dropped yet. 😁 We'll see what happens
Cool! Good, straight to the point repair info. Thanks!
Got this code on my 2013 Chrysler 200. The car doesn't over heat but in real cold weather it doesn't stay hot instead the temp would drop as I start to drive
Should be 2 thermostats in there. Replace them both and I recommend flush flush flush. The original coolant in the 200's is problematic.
Jump to 3:30 to skip a lot of jibber jabber.
MY VW Amarok has had a cooling system issue recently where it seemed the water temp was colder than it should be. While driving the car, the temp would be around 84 deg, but drop down to 50deg C. Then sometimes go up to 93-96, but quickly back down. I have had the thermostat changed, and while running the first time, the temp steadily went up to 94deg C and was up and down around that temp, but when idling my car for a while, the temp gauge drops down to 45deg C, and while idling, it stays around this low temp. Is that normal for the temp to be that low at idle?
I have a 2001 Honda accord and last week got this code and already changed the coolant temperature sensor . Should I change the thermostat as well. the car drives fine doesn’t jerk or stall the gauges marks normal . I haven’t changed that part since I got the car so I might do that and if the check engine light comes back on would it be that I need a new ecm ?
This code showed its ugly face on my 2005 pontiac grand am.
Can excessive cold cause this? we have been -40 for awhile. Now we are basically 0 but its still on. Dodge caravan 2013
It will kick on more during the winter if you haven't warmed up your vehicle than the summer. It has to do with how aggressive you push your engine. Drive real casual and/or warm up before you take off and it tends to not kick on as much. I'm driving the GMC 17 Acadia and have the same problem. I started driving around with my code reader on, and it seems like the actual temp is normal.
They issued the service bulletin on 9/11/01
My mom's car will read p0128 every once in awhile but I just turn it off because the thermostat has been replaced. Don't know what keeps causing it to come on.
KingDing919 same here. The thermostat is new but I’ll get this code once in a while. I notice that the temperature gage should be a bit higher than it is (just a bit passed 1/4)
Maybe the temp sensor. Usually be thermostat or temp sensor.
@The Mad Leprechaun probably temp sensor bro. Try that
@J Martin same here....'01 Gran Prix GTP
@kingding919 what tool do you use to reset the code?
Hi, Is it possible to explain how to get the location of the sensors in the papersw
Got a p0128 light, it went out, but had the coolant and thermostat replaced anyway. After replacement, the same code came on again...had auto parts store clear code. Couple days later, same one comes on again! Could it be the sensor? Sick of this happening.
i read main symptoms are bad thermostat, bad wiring, then the coolant temperature sensor. maybe its your sensor
@@andresandrade5963 Thank you for the reply! So I had anauto part store guy tell me to do a hard reset, which I disconnected the positive terminal of batttery, for 15 mins. Its been over a week and its not on , so it may have been a stored code.
The sensor is the first thing I check when this code comes up. If it says -40 degrees when it's like 70 degrees outside, it's a bad sensor.
Did it stay off after that hard reset, or did you end up changing the sensor?
Sorry guys, just saw these comments. It did stay off after the hard reset, it wound up doing pretty well after that. Unfortunately, it's since been totaled, but mainly I'm Ok. That was a really great vehicle, but the fuel costs for it would've been crazy!
i was getting too hot and changed the thermostat now its tossing me a p0128, coolant looks good , so im thnking its either the wrong thermostat type or a sensor??
my thermostat is fine but Check engine is on
I replaced the water pump, thermostat and it still gives me that code. I'm going to replace the damn coolant sensor and maybe the radiator and see if it goes away.
Maybe do the sensor first😂
Did replacing the coolant sensor work? And what car do you have?
Thank you
My 09 crown Victoria police interceptor throws this code everytime it get cold
Buy a better code reader. People need to know what the numbers mean. It will help fix the problem.
Just search the code online
I can just Google it... My grandmother uses Google too lol
@@justjoshin5140 I have a better code reader from the same company. I don't have search the code online. My reader is over 16 years old.
@@shawnstone8924 You bringing up your grandmother in your comment tell me you are not very tech.
@@blackericdenice yeah my brothers tells you what the code is to I prefer that one cause it’s nice, but having one that doesn’t explain the code is fine cause you can just google it if you have to
got check engine light (p 0128) , replaced the thermostat but the check engine light still on even after driving the car for around 70 miles (coolant level is OK and cooling sensor is OK also) is that normal ? Yeah, the car is 2014 Dodge grand caravan
Did you install the new thermostat in exactly like the original with new gasket, all coolant hoses (I mean all of them) with new clamps, new radiator cap and new coolant?
Most thermostats have little pin rod like (bubble bleeder), it you be in at 12 O'clock.
@@angelisone you are like the guy that ask someone if they replaced a battery in something when it dont work lol. What does changing hoes, clamps got to do with the problem?
@@angelisone stupid advice
Temp sensor probably bad
@@Treaxvour that’s what I’m thinking is wrong with mine I’m changing it today and seeing if it fixed the problem.
I have this code pop up on my challenger, I switched the thermostat a year ago. When I checked under my car when the code popped up I noticed a coolant stains. Any suggestions in finding the leak? Seems splattered everywhere at the bottom
Pressure test the coolant system and look for the leak
@@mikeschmidt4800 found the leaks. It’s coming from the thermostat housing and some bolts surrounding the water pump. Do you think it’s the water pump gasket? Because my car has no overheating issues. Literally only leaking coolant
Thanks for info……
I have this code
I took out my thermostat as I live in a hot climate. Should I pop it back in ?
Replace the Radiator Cap, Hoses with new screw hose clamps & Coolant Sensors with new coolant.
Taking out the thermostat because you live in a hot climate is one of the more senseless auto myths floating around. It also costs people lots of money in wasted fuel.
The thermostat helps the engine to reach operating temperatures quicker, so that the computer can go into closed loop operation. It does this by staying closed, so that the coolant in the engine gets hot, staying isolated from the radiator.
Before this, the computer will be in open loop, more or less dumping fuel into the engine, just so it stays running.
I just got another cylinder and a new gasket but it's pop out water when I open the radiator and when I cover it the hose got stronger like it's want to burst please I'm 100% confused help me
That sounds like a bad water pump.
Well? Was it the thermostat or ECM?
It was just a thermostat on this one.
@@FlatRateMechanic just did both sensors .on housing and sensor under dizzy and it put the code back on . Did thermostat aswell could it be a stored code with accords . Or is it really my ecm . Car runs smooth now with no other issues so it’s hard to believe it’s the ecm
if this engine check light code was not repaired for long time, what will happen ?
i hear loud noise after 20 - 30 min of driving which is increased with pushing on accelerator !!! is it related to unrepaired coolant thermostat ?
It’s supposed to be a driveable code from what I’ve researched (I have the same problem on my e550) but overtime there’s a small chance that water could contaminate the oil from humidity built up that an entirely warm engine would otherwise evaporate. So as far as im concerned it’s a fix as soon as convenient type thing
@@ziggys9439
you work as mechanic expert ?
@@robertokristen8316 no definitely not, I’d take all that i said as anecdotal evidence, just so far from my driving experience with a po128 code, I haven’t had any issues appear, except for reduced fuel efficiency
@@robertokristen8316 I just have happened to be dealing with the same issue as you for a while, and driving on it hasn’t done anything irreversible yet
Hello, i have a 2005 Chevy Aveo. I bought this car a few months ago, but the check enginev light was coming on and off for " cam-shaft position sense" low circuit 1. Car drove fine for awhile. I stalled outna few days ago. I read it could be the cam shaft position sensorn. My brother norice the coolant around the thermostat housing when i had my hood open. I figure knock out 2 birds with one stone. I got both replaced. Thermostat housing and cam shaft position sensor. I drove the car around for 2 days and on my way into work the check engine light comes on, for p0128 coolant below thermostat. My mechanic did ask me to grab orange coolant when going to pick my car up at his house. I told him i had 50/50 in my trunk. Could this be the problem? Or js it stuck thermostat? Or is if coolant thermostat sensor?
Most likely just a bad t-stat. Because that code wasn't there before you did the t-stat. Also be sure it was installed in the correct direction.
@@FlatRateMechanic thanks!
Just got a $1900 quote for this
Got the same one lol
If I replaced the thermostat, radiator cap and coolant temp sensor and engine light is still on what else could it be???
Coolant temp sensor possibly
@@mattbrooks9928 I already did that… ended up being the thermostat… I replaced with OEM in which I highly recommend only OEM even if it’s more expensive
@@mikelutts7088 I agree. I been working on my friends terrain she had a code for the temp sensor but when we put it on it still had the gauge dropping to c randomly and the code keeps coming back so we are gonna try thermostat next.
@@mattbrooks9928 just make sure it’s OEM. I switched it 2 times and still had the p0182 code and when I put the OEM engine light off and temp gauge working again 👍🏼 it’s cost way more but trust me it’ll be worth it in the long run and less frustrations.
@@mikelutts7088 I gotcha thanks. Had a similar issue in my toyota recently went through two water pumps and two thermostats. Have you had any other issues out of it?
WHY WOULD AN ENGINE LIGHT GO ON CUZ COOLANT ISNT HOT ENOUGH THE ENGINE LIGHT IS A BUNCH OF BULL SHIT THE MEACHNICS RIP U OFF AS IT IS NOW THE GOVERMENT GIVES THEM ANOTHER REASON WITH THESE FING ENGINE LIGHT!
If the engine does not get up to a specific temp that could cause sludge build up in the oil. A good mechanic is priceless.
@@paintnamer6403 thanks for this comment..my new truck thru code for low temperature..I checked oil it was sludge..I was TRIPPING OUT! at least I know the 2 things are connected and not separate issues..yes they are priceless