After seeing you getting the Deckel S1 t&cg, i got one myself, and boy am i fucking over the moon having your content to watch... I love abom, tony, blondie, prezzo and a few others(robrenz, calem...), but between you and Joe-Bi Wan, i will say that one needs not a proper machinist schooling... For over a decade i have been learning about machining myself from books and aforementioned, but you and joe really are invaluable... Many show a lot and teach quite more, but among you two, its like having a comprehensive machinist instructions that no money could pay to actually grant one the vast field of applicable machining know-how and how not to... Without a proper schooling, you could not ask a machining instructor to teach you what you need, as you dont know what you dont know and dont know what you should need and like to know, but you present us with lessons that are easy to understand, apply and get in one watching of a say 40 minute video, and give hints that like the dovetail cutter making in this manner, are instantly visible and clear in ones mind`s eye without having to see you demonstrate it directly... Thank you, and praise the Lord for the gifts that are brethren like you... Truly the Salt of the Earth and that what makes this world a purgatory and not hell itself...
enjoyed following along. I've shipped you a box of 50 dull slitting saws. no rush. curious: did you lock the indexing head for each tooth or manually hold back pressure against the index finger?
Thats 35eur a blade for resharpening. I will include a invoice with the blades. (You would have gotten a discount with 51 blades, sorry) After indexing I just hold the spindle of the indexing head by hand, light pressure against the tooth rest. Clamping/unclamping would take way to long.
a treat to watch as usual, Stefan. Your photography is superlative. Your attention to correct white balance, focus, exposure with brilliant close-ups set your vids a notch above others and make especially enjoyable to watch.
Big fan of the channel. You're a true craftsman and inventor. I like the way you apply your skills and ingenuity to take old Chinese machine tools and essentually make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Brilliant, when you consider the economics, space saving and having something you end up knowing inside and out.
I am sure your method will produce a perfect saw blade. Just a couple of months ago I hand held a slitting saw and sharpened it with my U2 grinder. Afterward it cut very well in aluminum. Keep on keeping on.
Nicely done. Being able to rebuild a cutter when you need it can save one an enormous amount of heartache when trying to get a job out of the door. Thank you.
Always enjoy your video's. CBN wheel Wow! I guess you mean Cubic Boron Nitride, No expense is spared to show us the good stuff. Well done thank you Stefan
That was great Stefan, I have heard others talk about using another saw for indexing but I have not seen it in practice 👌. Thanks for the mention also. I have not run my cuttergrinder in 3 weeks.
Das ist ja wieder ein sehr informatives Filmchen. Ich hatte mir auch schon überlegt eine Schleifvorrichtung für solche Scheibenfräser zu bauen. Ich dachte aber eher das sie ähnlich aussehen sollte wie wenn man Kreissägeblätter nachschärft. Nun habe wieder was zum Grübeln. Danke für die viele Zeit, die du dafür investiert uns das alles zu zeigen. Mach bitte weiter so.
maybe this has already been said or you already tried it out, but maybe sandwich the blade between some thicker, larger diameter stock discs/spacers will cut the vibration down. great video btw... as always
they have a slight hollow grind (that's what that snailing like grind pattern is) of course I know you know that but that last one would still put a nice cut on a clamp coller or something looking at the price of the good ones keo or the like I'd say ya good work thanks Stefan cutter grinder work is resourcefulness squared the time you spent on making the Knuth work looks like time well spent
Haha, I remember when I had not a single one and had to buy one for full price from hoffmann tools. Now everytime I buy used tooling, there is a stack of sawblades that comes with it. They add up over time.. :D
Very good like always ☺ And additionally there is an intetesting optical illusion in the video: When you show the closeup of the blade (between 1:15 and 3:00) the image seems to switch between the dark blue blade with "sharp" teeth on the right side and another light blue shape with round "teeth" on the left side. Who does see that too?
@@brandontscheschlog No it is still there. It is an optical illusion where the eye can see two different shapes that alternate, depending on how long you look at the image. In this case you can see the saw blade in dark blue with sharp teeth. The other shape in light blue color has round round "teeth" that correspond to the gullets of the saw blade and sharp valleys that correspond to the teeth of the blade. It is the negative of the saw blade. Just pause the video at 1:32 and look at the picture. The needle that Stefan holds points at the tip of the saw toth, or at the bottom of the valley of the light blue shape. Look at it long enough and you will see it ☺
I used to use saws in the millling machine to cut plates in half since we had no vertical bandsaw in the shop. Nowadays saws this thin are often cut from a blank with a laser then ground.
Oh that was cool. For over a minute on that first close up shot of the blade, I saw it inversed (thought the blade was above). Looked really bizarre for a cutting blade. Optical illusions are fun.
Thank you for this video, tool grinding is so interesting, I only have a Deckel S0 by now to play with. Maybe in another video you could explain why a drill is design to only plunges versus an end mill. Cheers from France.
Nice universal tool grinder, it has a lot possibilities. On my carbide woodsaws i grind always both sides after the blade has washed in the ultra sonic cleaner. Few weeks ago I has visited München. Be carefull with the side relief of the new tooths, after removing the tooths form old.
If you are referring to inexpensive Asian import cutters you are probably right, but when you are looking at high quality cutters that sell for 40 or 50 dollars each, they are worth the effort of resharpening.
And you don't need to sharpen the front face of the cutting edge, just the top? That's a good time saving. I have a Clarkson T&C grinder but have never tried to sharpen slitting saws although I have a good few that need sharpening. Thanks for this video.
Last video, you mentioned 'Thread grinding" with the TC grinder, can you make a video showing thread grinding. Thanks for sharing your expert knowledge
Most times it is simply easier and cheeper to toss in the scrap many dull cutters. But to experiment and learn how to will save your ass one Sunday afternoon on a must have it done project. Tool making and grinding is a great skill to have and some days absolutely necessary. A T&C grinder is on my list. has been for a some time.
For the vibration that you referred to, could you mount several blanks and cut multiple blades at once? If so, what would you charge for a slitting saw blade? Really like your videos, keep them coming!
Really cool doing the complete re grind. Very interesting. Yes, when you can, make own tooling, maybe get a used electric closed furnace, and use a desiel generator to power it, since current is so pricey, So you can do M2 and M3 and cobalt grades of HHS.
Hi, Interesting video, I am no expert, if you used a thickerwider diameter mandrel to hold the saw blade that may make the blade more rigid and result in les vibration what do you think ?
nice video, with that blade grinding have you thought of a solid spacer on the arbour 2 or 3 mm Smaller than the gullet depth, this would clear the "chatter" of the blade when the force of the wheel comes onto the blade. What you have is in effect a 'high Aspect ratio' part, ie the height is approx. 5-10 times the items thickness, so just like a part on the mill vice, put a support to stop the vibration, making the part a LOW aspect ratio- by the way of the support spacers, this should make the cutting a little better too.
Well Stefan that was amazing, can I just ask! Was that real time speed of travers on both cutter when cutting the cast iron? That music 🎶😟 ps I am sending 51 cutting blades of various sizes & thanks in advance for the large discount. PPS i will spend my savings on new knickers for the wife” as she’s put on a little extra weigh recently & the old one’s were getting a little snugger than they should be, she is therefore very thankful & as an appreciation will subscribe to your channel.
Do you mind sharing your brief opinions about value when making these types of videos? Something like, "these slitting saws typically cost $XX each, and sharpening takes around XX minutes, I would only do this if ____. I expect the sharpened saw to last XX% of the life of a new saw". I understand that is not the point you are making here (it is about training yourself & understanding the capabilities of your shop more fully), but I am always curious as someone who does not know much about machining. I just google slitting saw prices & see they're ~$25-50 USD (again, I understand that time etc. can be invaluable, and sometimes you need the saw sitting on your bench to be sharp *now*). Thanks for all the videos Stefan, I really appreciate the effort you put into showing the progression of the process & how things could be improved throughout the job.
i realize that a lot of your "projects" are you learning something new or finding out if you can do something at all . . . well, when it comes to saw blades . . . you can! the teeth on the completely re-done blade were a bit ugly with what appeared to be a too-small gullet . . . but since the only other person i would trust to do this is Clickspring (and he would hand-file the teeth) i guess i shouldn't complain too loudly . . . and it cuts beautifully! [ i couldn't do that with a machine designed for saw blade manufacturing and a hundred years practice! ]
@1:30 I was so confused, because what I was seeing was a solid object in the top left, as opposed to the bottom right. I had to rewind it twice in order to finally see what was going on. Nice optical illusion.
Servus, du hattest glaub ich mal eine Art Antriebsriemen vorgestellt, so Poly-Riemen mit rundem Querschnitt, die man relativ einfach selbst auf die benötigte Länge kürzen und die Enden einfach zusammenkleben kann, ich glaub sogar mit Superkleber. Kann das sein? Was war das noch mal genau und wo kriegt man so was her? Ich hab da so eine alte DDR-Tischbohrmaschine, mit Flachriemenantrieb und Plaste-Riemenscheiben, dafür brauch ich unbedingt was Vernünftiges, der Riemen ist verschlissen und rutscht dauernd durch und überhaupt ist das alles suboptimal.
Did you kerf(think thats the word-1 tooth goes left other one goes right) the teeth?it will work without it,but it will have a lot of friction from the plate touching material you are slitting .There are pliers for do it on handsaws ,but how to do it on a hss steel?
What you are referring to is called setting the teeth. The kerf is the width of the cut. Your kerf should be in theory the blade thickness plus 2x the set of the teeth. It is hollow ground and has 0 set so the kerf is just the width at the cutting edge.
If you want to remove vibration put a small container, like a tin can, 1/2 full of sand at the other end of your indicator stand arm. The vibrations from the work will travel down the arm to the can of sand and be dissipated in the sand.
Hi Stefan, passt zwar nicht zum eigentlichem Video aber ich würde gerne mal deine Meinung/Erfahrung zu meiner Geschichte hören. Und zwar habe ich nun schon 2 Wochen lang eine Holzmann ZX 7050 zuhause stehen. Aus deiner Webseite wusste ich schon in etwa was auf mich zu kommt. Maschine komplett zerlegen, reinigen und frisch einölen. Habe ich alles gemacht. Allerdings war ich schon echt schockiert, in welchem Zustand sich die Keilleisten befanden. Eine Seite war schön geschliffen, dagegen die andere Seite war mir der Flex von dem Überresten des Gusses befreit worden und die Oberfläche war dann alles andere als eben, im richtigen Winkel oder glatt wie man es von einer Keilleiste erwarten sollte. Das war bei allen 3 Keilleisten der Fall. Schonmal zum Kotzen. Dann mit meinem möglichen Mitteln die Kleileisten so gut wie ich könnte eingeebnet und geglättet. Danach wieder zusammengebaut. Dabei müssten die Axial Rillenkugellager mit kleinen Fühlerplättchen unterlegt werden damit ich kein Spiel mehr Im Lagerblock habe. Der Lagerblock musste dazu noch in der Y-Achse mit 0,8mm Fühlerplättchen unterlegt werden, damit die Achse Vernünftig läuft. Dann Die Bohrungen der Beiden Lagerblöcke in der X-Achse mussten teilweise auf 12mm Aufgebohrt werden damit die M8 Schraube ohne zu klemmen eingeschraubt werden konnte. Und heute Abend habe ich 400V Starkstrom verlegt. Aber das Ding läuft einfach nicht. Hattest du ähnliche Probleme oder war das bei dir einfacher. Ich hab Langsam echt genug. Mal sehen was der Händler so zurückschreibt, dem habe ich auch schon geschrieben.
My hand on the spindle of the indexing head - Forgot to mention that in the video, after indexing you always back it up against the finger and hold it in that possition during grinding.
Is there a reason why you mounted the work in your sample cut along the y-axis instead of the x-axis? Seems like a precarious way of holding it. Very interesting work as always!
In one of your projects you showed a vice that you cleaned up with adjustable Gibbs on one side. It use lite blue. I live in northern Canada and I bid on one at a auction and can’t find a name.Can you help me in anyway I would appreciate it Thanks
Simply for that ultra precision machined lawn that will confound every neighbor and make them all insanely jealous of that slightly rough + - .001 mm approximate snooker table copy of course. :-) Then again in Germany maybe every lawn looks just like that? :-)
why not, grind one tooth, index to next, the sweep back opposite direction, every other tooth, for staggering chip relief even better with slight angle, so then you would have to bring every other one, the slant that axis opposite and grind the other half, or would that kinda staggering relief NOT be good for slit-saw operations?
It seems to me that all my slitting saws sourced from China run off centre and I suspect that they grind them on arbors that are not truly concentric. I have made several saw arbors but I have never managed to get that constant cutting sound which indicates perfect concentricity. Do you have any comment on my problem saws, do I need to stop buying cheap Chinese saws? Could I regrind them so that they are concentric and cut like yours do you think?
I never had any slitting saw run truely true on its diameter :D No matter if used/new, generic no-name import or from a name brand manufacturer. I started to accept it, it doesnt seem to affect the cut much, its just the enerving sound.
@@StefanGotteswinter I just invested in a binocular microscope with 20x/40x magnification and I was horrified to view my slitting saw teeth as burred, missing parts of the tooth and uneven grinding in the kerfs and clearance faces! At 75 years old I find I need this optical assistance to see the true picture. I have resharpened a 72 x 0.6 x 80 mm diameter saw that was cutting a curved path and checking the results using the microscope. It now cuts a straight line and there is little or no unnerving sound! Thanks for your video - most instructive - I am somewhat wiser now.
Hi Craig, if you are on facebook there is a group called "TH-cam Machinists" group. I only mention it because there is a guy on there called Greg Wood who is making the HH grinding rest at the moment.
I've never had much trouble sharpening my blades, but setting the teeth properly is a nightmare. I'll never understand why the blades don't come set from the factory. Que sera sera.
The first closeup of the saw blade really confused me... First I was like "whoa these teeth are really round 😱" but something looked off... It took me about a minute to realize that I had confused the blade with the background and the background with the blade 😄 Our brains do funny things sometimes (Or is it just me?)
why grind the top of the tooth rather than the gullet/cutting part like you do with a chainsaw or normal circular sawblade? grinding the top the tooth will shrink the gullet(less room for swarf) and eventually disapear. You rebuilt sawblade has a much stronger tooth than the template, should help with vibration and harmonics. 👍
But yt does that just since last week. Very annoying. Didn't find a way to switch that off yet. All those originally english titles from Abom79, Keith Fenner, Keith Rucker (and yours also of coursce ;) ) etc. sound a bit awkward when translated automaticly into german. ^^ Edit: On the other hand: The english title does not correspond completely to the german translation. That meens, the author can put optional titles, right?
After seeing you getting the Deckel S1 t&cg, i got one myself, and boy am i fucking over the moon having your content to watch... I love abom, tony, blondie, prezzo and a few others(robrenz, calem...), but between you and Joe-Bi Wan, i will say that one needs not a proper machinist schooling... For over a decade i have been learning about machining myself from books and aforementioned, but you and joe really are invaluable... Many show a lot and teach quite more, but among you two, its like having a comprehensive machinist instructions that no money could pay to actually grant one the vast field of applicable machining know-how and how not to... Without a proper schooling, you could not ask a machining instructor to teach you what you need, as you dont know what you dont know and dont know what you should need and like to know, but you present us with lessons that are easy to understand, apply and get in one watching of a say 40 minute video, and give hints that like the dovetail cutter making in this manner, are instantly visible and clear in ones mind`s eye without having to see you demonstrate it directly... Thank you, and praise the Lord for the gifts that are brethren like you... Truly the Salt of the Earth and that what makes this world a purgatory and not hell itself...
enjoyed following along. I've shipped you a box of 50 dull slitting saws. no rush.
curious: did you lock the indexing head for each tooth or manually hold back pressure against the index finger?
Thats 35eur a blade for resharpening. I will include a invoice with the blades. (You would have gotten a discount with 51 blades, sorry)
After indexing I just hold the spindle of the indexing head by hand, light pressure against the tooth rest. Clamping/unclamping would take way to long.
@@Goodwithwood69 well that escalated quickly
Matthew Smith, come out finally, mom has heated some nice milk and cookies for you. And leave that pillow in the closet! Are those teeth marks on it?!
@@Goodwithwood69 I hope your Mom reads your posts..
You discipline my processes - thanks for precision and patience in demonstrating
a treat to watch as usual, Stefan. Your photography is superlative. Your attention to correct white balance, focus, exposure with brilliant close-ups set your vids a notch above others and make especially enjoyable to watch.
Big fan of the channel. You're a true craftsman and inventor. I like the way you apply your skills and ingenuity to take old Chinese machine tools and essentually make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Brilliant, when you consider the economics, space saving and having something you end up knowing inside and out.
I am sure your method will produce a perfect saw blade. Just a couple of months ago I hand held a slitting saw and sharpened it with my U2 grinder. Afterward it cut very well in aluminum. Keep on keeping on.
Nicely done. Being able to rebuild a cutter when you need it can save one an enormous amount of heartache when trying to get a job out of the door. Thank you.
Always enjoy your video's.
CBN wheel Wow! I guess you mean Cubic Boron Nitride, No expense is spared to show us the good stuff.
Well done thank you Stefan
The only negative rating comes from a saw blade manufacturer.
That was great Stefan, I have heard others talk about using another saw for indexing but I have not seen it in practice 👌.
Thanks for the mention also. I have not run my cuttergrinder in 3 weeks.
Das ist ja wieder ein sehr informatives Filmchen. Ich hatte mir auch schon überlegt eine Schleifvorrichtung für solche Scheibenfräser zu bauen. Ich dachte aber eher das sie ähnlich aussehen sollte wie wenn man Kreissägeblätter nachschärft. Nun habe wieder was zum Grübeln. Danke für die viele Zeit, die du dafür investiert uns das alles zu zeigen. Mach bitte weiter so.
Like the Twin Peaks intro in miniature! Awesome tutorial
Looking forward to Stefan doing a Max Headroom impression now! This Old Tony in on to something there🤣
Excellent video again Stefan. Some excellent tips there. regards from the UK
Excellent workmanship once again!
Really nice setup & result from what I saw Stefan, thanks for sharing your technique~ Richard
Excellent setup and procedure, great detailed macro photography.
Great video and explanation. Thanks Stefan.
Super interesting vid. Love these grinder vids you and Steve been making. Keep them coming. 👌🇨🇦
I have a similar tool grinder. I still have work to do on it before it's ready for use. Thanks for the training!!!!
8 thumbs down? saw blade manufacturers perhaps
you're just an amazing machinist
maybe this has already been said or you already tried it out, but maybe sandwich the blade between some thicker, larger diameter stock discs/spacers will cut the vibration down. great video btw... as always
Nice work, Enjoying the new tool and cutter videos!
I need to get myself one when I can afford the expense and time to learn tool grinding.
they have a slight hollow grind (that's what that snailing like grind pattern is) of course I know you know that but that last one would still put a nice cut on a clamp coller or something looking at the price of the good ones keo or the like I'd say ya good work thanks Stefan cutter grinder work is resourcefulness squared the time you spent on making the Knuth work looks like time well spent
we all seem to learn tool grinding together. Isn't that something. One of the more sensible uses of the internet...
150 slitting saws? I was jealous before you started. Now I feel like crying!
Haha, I remember when I had not a single one and had to buy one for full price from hoffmann tools. Now everytime I buy used tooling, there is a stack of sawblades that comes with it. They add up over time.. :D
Very interesting as always, thanks Stefan.
3:00 wow, this is an optical illusion, I was looking at this and thought that the gullet was the tooth and it was severely rounded over
Very good like always ☺
And additionally there is an intetesting optical illusion in the video: When you show the closeup of the blade (between 1:15 and 3:00) the image seems to switch between the dark blue blade with "sharp" teeth on the right side and another light blue shape with round "teeth" on the left side. Who does see that too?
🖐 I was thoroughly confused for a second.
Ha, yes that tricked me too.
Myself also. I was trying to figure out where the different saw blade came from all of a sudden.
Hans Bjaeke it must be fixed now or it was some youtube glitch. I don’t see it.
@@brandontscheschlog No it is still there. It is an optical illusion where the eye can see two different shapes that alternate, depending on how long you look at the image. In this case you can see the saw blade in dark blue with sharp teeth. The other shape in light blue color has round round "teeth" that correspond to the gullets of the saw blade and sharp valleys that correspond to the teeth of the blade. It is the negative of the saw blade. Just pause the video at 1:32 and look at the picture. The needle that Stefan holds points at the tip of the saw toth, or at the bottom of the valley of the light blue shape. Look at it long enough and you will see it ☺
Great video Stefan! 4 flute endmill from a blank next? Very complex machine with virtually unlimited possibilities! Awesome!
Great one Stephan!
good tips Stefan,thank you for sharing with us......
If I ever buy a slitting saw blade I now know for sure I will throw it out when it gets dull. Thanks!
I had jumped to the close-up view and for a moment I couldn't figure out why the teeth were semi circular.
Yeah that was a pretty cool illusion
Great explanation and close ups .Add a VFD and a Tachometer to the mill you will never regret it
Very interesting job Stefan
Very nice. My blades never run as true.
Thank's .It's good to know this technique,even if it's something I may never use.Keep the knowledge flowing and we'll all be smarter for it.
I used to use saws in the millling machine to cut plates in half since we had no vertical bandsaw in the shop. Nowadays saws this thin are often cut from a blank with a laser then ground.
Another amazing video
Great video as always.
Thanks Stefan!
Envious of you guys and the T/C grinders. It'd be so nice to have that ability in the shop. :-)
t
The personal satisfaction of doing something new and it being successful is a winner every time.
great video Stefan, It is nice to know if you need to do something like this you can do it.
Oh that was cool. For over a minute on that first close up shot of the blade, I saw it inversed (thought the blade was above). Looked really bizarre for a cutting blade. Optical illusions are fun.
Great tutorial Stefan! I wonder if the businesses that sharpen circular saws for wood would have the setup to sharpen these?
👍 great one again
Thank you for this video, tool grinding is so interesting, I only have a Deckel S0 by now to play with. Maybe in another video you could explain why a drill is design to only plunges versus an end mill.
Cheers from France.
Thanks for another interesting video
Very neat!
WOW, good job !
EXCELLENT............as always
Nice universal tool grinder, it has a lot possibilities. On my carbide woodsaws i grind always both sides after the blade has washed in the ultra sonic cleaner. Few weeks ago I has visited München. Be carefull with the side relief of the new tooths, after removing the tooths form old.
Great video. In the absence of a T&C Grinder I am going to try and make a setup on my surface grinder using a spin indexer mounted on a sine plate.
Me too!
just buy some blades.
If you are referring to inexpensive Asian import cutters you are probably right, but when you are looking at high quality cutters that sell for 40 or 50 dollars each, they are worth the effort of resharpening.
And you don't need to sharpen the front face of the cutting edge, just the top?
That's a good time saving. I have a Clarkson T&C grinder but have never tried to sharpen slitting saws although I have a good few that need sharpening. Thanks for this video.
Last video, you mentioned 'Thread grinding" with the TC grinder, can you make a video showing thread grinding.
Thanks for sharing your expert knowledge
Most times it is simply easier and cheeper to toss in the scrap many dull cutters. But to experiment and learn how to will save your ass one Sunday afternoon on a must have it done project. Tool making and grinding is a great skill to have and some days absolutely necessary. A T&C grinder is on my list. has been for a some time.
For the vibration that you referred to, could you mount several blanks and cut multiple blades at once? If so, what would you charge for a slitting saw blade? Really like your videos, keep them coming!
Really cool doing the complete re grind. Very interesting. Yes, when you can, make own tooling, maybe get a used electric closed furnace, and use a desiel generator to power it, since current is so pricey, So you can do M2 and M3 and cobalt grades of HHS.
Will you show sharpening end mill flutes ?, saw blade looks great by the way.
Alan.
Probably :)
Steve Summer already showed it, check his channel out!
But that's him not you 😁
Hi, Interesting video, I am no expert, if you used a thickerwider diameter mandrel to hold the saw blade that may make the blade more rigid and result in les vibration what do you think ?
nice video, with that blade grinding have you thought of a solid spacer on the arbour 2 or 3 mm Smaller than the gullet depth, this would clear the "chatter" of the blade when the force of the wheel comes onto the blade.
What you have is in effect a 'high Aspect ratio' part, ie the height is approx. 5-10 times the items thickness, so just like a part on the mill vice, put a support to stop the vibration, making the part a LOW aspect ratio- by the way of the support spacers, this should make the cutting a little better too.
Thanks for the video.
Wunderschon. Or wonderful Stefan.
you can use a hook type index finger for those hard to reach cutters
Well Stefan that was amazing, can I just ask! Was that real time speed of travers on both cutter when cutting the cast iron? That music 🎶😟 ps I am sending 51 cutting blades of various sizes & thanks in advance for the large discount. PPS i will spend my savings on new knickers for the wife” as she’s put on a little extra weigh recently & the old one’s were getting a little snugger than they should be, she is therefore very thankful & as an appreciation will subscribe to your channel.
Do you mind sharing your brief opinions about value when making these types of videos? Something like, "these slitting saws typically cost $XX each, and sharpening takes around XX minutes, I would only do this if ____. I expect the sharpened saw to last XX% of the life of a new saw". I understand that is not the point you are making here (it is about training yourself & understanding the capabilities of your shop more fully), but I am always curious as someone who does not know much about machining. I just google slitting saw prices & see they're ~$25-50 USD (again, I understand that time etc. can be invaluable, and sometimes you need the saw sitting on your bench to be sharp *now*). Thanks for all the videos Stefan, I really appreciate the effort you put into showing the progression of the process & how things could be improved throughout the job.
i realize that a lot of your "projects" are you learning something new or finding out if you can do something at all . . . well, when it comes to saw blades . . . you can!
the teeth on the completely re-done blade were a bit ugly with what appeared to be a too-small gullet . . . but since the only other person i would trust to do this is Clickspring (and he would hand-file the teeth) i guess i shouldn't complain too loudly . . . and it cuts beautifully!
[ i couldn't do that with a machine designed for saw blade manufacturing and a hundred years practice! ]
you need to make some larger spindle spacers for grinding slitting saw blades. to support the slitting saw much farther out to reduce vibration.
@1:30 I was so confused, because what I was seeing was a solid object in the top left, as opposed to the bottom right. I had to rewind it twice in order to finally see what was going on. Nice optical illusion.
Servus,
du hattest glaub ich mal eine Art Antriebsriemen vorgestellt, so Poly-Riemen mit rundem Querschnitt, die man relativ einfach selbst auf die benötigte Länge kürzen und die Enden einfach zusammenkleben kann, ich glaub sogar mit Superkleber. Kann das sein? Was war das noch mal genau und wo kriegt man so was her? Ich hab da so eine alte DDR-Tischbohrmaschine, mit Flachriemenantrieb und Plaste-Riemenscheiben, dafür brauch ich unbedingt was Vernünftiges, der Riemen ist verschlissen und rutscht dauernd durch und überhaupt ist das alles suboptimal.
Did you kerf(think thats the word-1 tooth goes left other one goes right) the teeth?it will work without it,but it will have a lot of friction from the plate touching material you are slitting .There are pliers for do it on handsaws ,but how to do it on a hss steel?
Thats not done on that style of sawblade - they are hollowground, i.e. they get thinner towards the center bore to reduce friction.
What you are referring to is called setting the teeth. The kerf is the width of the cut. Your kerf should be in theory the blade thickness plus 2x the set of the teeth. It is hollow ground and has 0 set so the kerf is just the width at the cutting edge.
If you want to remove vibration put a small container, like a tin can, 1/2 full of sand at the other end of your indicator stand arm. The vibrations from the work will travel down the arm to the can of sand and be dissipated in the sand.
Hi Stefan, passt zwar nicht zum eigentlichem Video aber ich würde gerne mal deine Meinung/Erfahrung zu meiner Geschichte hören. Und zwar habe ich nun schon 2 Wochen lang eine Holzmann ZX 7050 zuhause stehen. Aus deiner Webseite wusste ich schon in etwa was auf mich zu kommt. Maschine komplett zerlegen, reinigen und frisch einölen. Habe ich alles gemacht. Allerdings war ich schon echt schockiert, in welchem Zustand sich die Keilleisten befanden. Eine Seite war schön geschliffen, dagegen die andere Seite war mir der Flex von dem Überresten des Gusses befreit worden und die Oberfläche war dann alles andere als eben, im richtigen Winkel oder glatt wie man es von einer Keilleiste erwarten sollte. Das war bei allen 3 Keilleisten der Fall. Schonmal zum Kotzen. Dann mit meinem möglichen Mitteln die Kleileisten so gut wie ich könnte eingeebnet und geglättet. Danach wieder zusammengebaut. Dabei müssten die Axial Rillenkugellager mit kleinen Fühlerplättchen unterlegt werden damit ich kein Spiel mehr Im Lagerblock habe. Der Lagerblock musste dazu noch in der Y-Achse mit 0,8mm Fühlerplättchen unterlegt werden, damit die Achse Vernünftig läuft. Dann Die Bohrungen der Beiden Lagerblöcke in der X-Achse mussten teilweise auf 12mm Aufgebohrt werden damit die M8 Schraube ohne zu klemmen eingeschraubt werden konnte. Und heute Abend habe ich 400V Starkstrom verlegt. Aber das Ding läuft einfach nicht. Hattest du ähnliche Probleme oder war das bei dir einfacher. Ich hab Langsam echt genug. Mal sehen was der Händler so zurückschreibt, dem habe ich auch schon geschrieben.
What causes the blade to "kick back" against the gullet after being advanced?
My hand on the spindle of the indexing head - Forgot to mention that in the video, after indexing you always back it up against the finger and hold it in that possition during grinding.
Hy stefan ! can u maybe give me a Hint where i can get a 0.3 or 0.5mm slitting saw ? preferable in austria or germany ?
Could you stack 10 saw blades and sharpen them at the same time ?
Is there a reason why you mounted the work in your sample cut along the y-axis instead of the x-axis? Seems like a precarious way of holding it.
Very interesting work as always!
Because those two small faces where the only ones that where not bandsawed and allowed to grip it secure ;)
very cool
Stefan - How in the world did you manage to keep the pointer from shaking in an extreme close-up ? It is un-heard of.
In one of your projects you showed a vice that you cleaned up with adjustable Gibbs on one side. It use lite blue. I live in northern Canada and I bid on one at a auction and can’t find a name.Can you help me in anyway I would appreciate it Thanks
The heavy fabricators vice? That was a Brockhaus Heuer.
www.heuer.de/en/vices/vice/
If it works it is a success! :-)
Sometimes its just as simple as that :)
Bailey give his PAWS UP? 🐕
Because it is cutting edge technology
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Wag of approval!
I guess the proof is in the pudding, what ever that means. Nice tutorial Stefan. Do you do ice skates on the T.& C grinder too?
I dont ice skate ;)
But the lawnmowerblades will definetly go onto the t&c grinder next time I sharpen them.
Just because you don't ice skate doesn't mean you can't sharpen the blades. :-)
Simply for that ultra precision machined lawn that will confound every neighbor and make them all insanely jealous of that slightly rough + - .001 mm approximate snooker table copy of course. :-) Then again in Germany maybe every lawn looks just like that? :-)
why not, grind one tooth, index to next, the sweep back opposite direction, every other tooth, for staggering chip relief even better with slight angle, so then you would have to bring every other one, the slant that axis opposite and grind the other half, or would that kinda staggering relief NOT be good for slit-saw operations?
It seems to me that all my slitting saws sourced from China run off centre and I suspect that they grind them on arbors that are not truly concentric. I have made several saw arbors but I have never managed to get that constant cutting sound which indicates perfect concentricity. Do you have any comment on my problem saws, do I need to stop buying cheap Chinese saws? Could I regrind them so that they are concentric and cut like yours do you think?
I never had any slitting saw run truely true on its diameter :D
No matter if used/new, generic no-name import or from a name brand manufacturer. I started to accept it, it doesnt seem to affect the cut much, its just the enerving sound.
@@StefanGotteswinter I just invested in a binocular microscope with 20x/40x magnification and I was horrified to view my slitting saw teeth as burred, missing parts of the tooth and uneven grinding in the kerfs and clearance faces! At 75 years old I find I need this optical assistance to see the true picture. I have resharpened a 72 x 0.6 x 80 mm diameter saw that was cutting a curved path and checking the results using the microscope. It now cuts a straight line and there is little or no unnerving sound!
Thanks for your video - most instructive - I am somewhat wiser now.
If I ever get a slitting saw this is what I will do. But probably with something more like a fingernail file. Or maybe I can rig up my Dremel.
You can do this on a D bit grinder also quite easily.
Yes - Or with a fixture like Harold Hall showed. But I have to cannibalize the t&c grinder for content ;)
Hi Craig, if you are on facebook there is a group called "TH-cam Machinists" group. I only mention it because there is a guy on there called Greg Wood who is making the HH grinding rest at the moment.
Very nice. Now you can start selling your own slitting saws. 😉
👍
I'm lucky, my saw blades never survive long enough to need resharpening! 😂
I want to be a very brave man. Show me the mill setup please.
Oh come on you should regrind them all!
I've never had much trouble sharpening my blades, but setting the teeth properly is a nightmare. I'll never understand why the blades don't come set from the factory. Que sera sera.
Hi Stefan. I hope you haven’t given up on us. Thanks
The first closeup of the saw blade really confused me...
First I was like "whoa these teeth are really round 😱" but something looked off...
It took me about a minute to realize that I had confused the blade with the background and the background with the blade 😄
Our brains do funny things sometimes (Or is it just me?)
Same here for a few seconds!.
why grind the top of the tooth rather than the gullet/cutting part like you do with a chainsaw or normal circular sawblade? grinding the top the tooth will shrink the gullet(less room for swarf) and eventually disapear. You rebuilt sawblade has a much stronger tooth than the template, should help with vibration and harmonics. 👍
Did you change all your video titles to German? Or is that a TH-cam thing? Are you transitioning to German narrated videos?
If your browser/system language is german, it will show a german title, otherwise it will show english as usual :)
But yt does that just since last week. Very annoying. Didn't find a way to switch that off yet. All those originally english titles from Abom79, Keith Fenner, Keith Rucker (and yours also of coursce ;) ) etc. sound a bit awkward when translated automaticly into german. ^^
Edit: On the other hand: The english title does not correspond completely to the german translation. That meens, the author can put optional titles, right?
@@StefanGotteswinter Ah, thanks! I've always been watching your videos on my tablet where the system language is indeed German.
Yes, I can set individual titles for each language that I want.
Thank you. Again what learned. :D
Although not so very useful - at least for me.
No! Dovetail cutters are a no no. Buy another shaper..
Sending 51 blades.