If you add a snap connector to each end you can attach more LEDs to the end of your run. The only caveat is to be certain that all of the LEDs are drawing the same voltage and power. If the lights have different specs you will need separate runs. Also be sure not to overload your circuit with too many lights.
Excellent topic! I needed to see that connector you used to connect the transformer to shortened LED strip. Now, this is a good time to ask for advice from you or your other subscribers about how to light my prewar tinplate passenger trains that were not meant to be lighted, but without using track power. So far I have looked at using small battery powered remote controlled tea lights that I can tack to the floor of the car using poster putty. Problem is that they are dim and they flicker and are amber. Otherwise perfect! Remote controlled solves the problem of access to turn on and off without taking the roof off the car every time to turn it on or off. Any ideas or suggestions? The goal is no track power to be used.
It sounds like you're on the right track (pun intended) for your project. Instead of tea lights, you might look into some of the battery-powered puck lights. I'm pretty sure I have seen some with remote controls, and they are bright and white. Space might be a problem, however. Good luck on your search!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Thanks very much for replying to my comment. It's nice to see other people's work to get idea to improve my layout. Take Care & Stay Safe.
A couple of things here. 1. Never light the lights when they are on the reel, there's a chance of them shorting out - it says so in the instructions that came with mine. 2. When cutting pieces, cut from the very end of the reel, this way you preserve the dimmer switch with MORE lights. I've used about 40 lights off the end of one reel, but I still have the dimmer hooked up to about 200 lights. 3. I have those same connectors - they suck - quicker for me to solder the wires. 👍
1) Good point. Mine did not say that, but it's an excellent tip. 2) Another excellent tip. 3) I went with the clips after melting several strips while trying to solder them. My eyes ain't what they used to be!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I know whatcha mean. I'm over 60 but I've needed THICK glasses since first grade. I wore only contacts for over 30 years, but now mainly wear glasses as my close-up vision is extremely good. I just slide them down a bit to see up close. Still, I have a bunch of magnifying glasses! Forgot to say in my last post... great videos! 👍😃
LEDs are diodes. Diodes allow current to pass in only one direction. You can run them on either DC or AC. The AC will make them flash on and off at 60 cycles, but that's faster than the eye can detect.
Love your videos, you might want to update this link, it is for a 24 volt light set which takes a higher voltage to even come on than what I run my layout lighting circuit voltage at, found that out when I ordered these without paying attention to the voltage, need to find a 12 volt set to order now!
I use those LED strips all the time in model railroading. I use them to light up coaches and houses as well. If you have a lot of houses and buildings, you can run buss wires (one +, one -) underneath and connect the LED strips from each building to the buss. You can also use small magnet wire on those 12 Volt LED strips. If you use a single LED, then you have to use a dropping resistor. The LED strips have dropping (ballast) resistors already installed on the strips. For flicker free non directional coach lighting (HO and O scale) I use about 12 LED's on each strip along with a mini full wave bridge rectifier and a 3200uF capacitor all mounted into the car body. I have a 12 volt 5 amp switching DC power supply to supply the voltages to all the houses and buildings on the layout. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Very informative video. If I might add, the three LEDs in each "block" are wired in series, but then the blocks are wired in parallel. Therefore each block will operate on 12 volts and you can power as many blocks as you like. However, the longer the string of lights you run, the more current it will draw. One block draws very little current but a fifteen foot length of lights is rated at two and one half amps. So very long strings can require a pretty hefty transformer or power supply. As such, I do not recommend using them for general lighting, but they are great for what you are doing.
Thanks for the comments. I know a bit of the "why things work" in electronics, but not so much the actual math, which is why I wanted to "experiment" with them myself. It makes sense that longer strings will pull more amps. Thanks again !
I think it would work. Just keep the light intensity low or the LED will shine through those thin plastic walls (or paint the interior walls if you are not concerned with original authenticity).
Great info, Awesome Channel!
Thanks for watching!!
Can i use my lionel 80 watt tranformer to power the lights on the accessories terminal
After you have cut it to length
Can you run a wire from the other side and to another set of LED’s as if to light a waiting room for example
If you add a snap connector to each end you can attach more LEDs to the end of your run. The only caveat is to be certain that all of the LEDs are drawing the same voltage and power. If the lights have different specs you will need separate runs. Also be sure not to overload your circuit with too many lights.
Excellent topic! I needed to see that connector you used to connect the transformer to shortened LED strip. Now, this is a good time to ask for advice from you or your other subscribers about how to light my prewar tinplate passenger trains that were not meant to be lighted, but without using track power. So far I have looked at using small battery powered remote controlled tea lights that I can tack to the floor of the car using poster putty. Problem is that they are dim and they flicker and are amber. Otherwise perfect! Remote controlled solves the problem of access to turn on and off without taking the roof off the car every time to turn it on or off. Any ideas or suggestions? The goal is no track power to be used.
It sounds like you're on the right track (pun intended) for your project. Instead of tea lights, you might look into some of the battery-powered puck lights. I'm pretty sure I have seen some with remote controls, and they are bright and white. Space might be a problem, however. Good luck on your search!
If I use less on my passenger rolling stock any special conditions that I need to use
None
Nice video lots of detail. Thanks for sharing.
And thanks for watching!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Thanks very much for replying to my comment. It's nice to see other people's work to get idea to improve my layout. Take Care & Stay Safe.
A couple of things here. 1. Never light the lights when they are on the reel, there's a chance of them shorting out - it says so in the instructions that came with mine. 2. When cutting pieces, cut from the very end of the reel, this way you preserve the dimmer switch with MORE lights. I've used about 40 lights off the end of one reel, but I still have the dimmer hooked up to about 200 lights. 3. I have those same connectors - they suck - quicker for me to solder the wires. 👍
1) Good point. Mine did not say that, but it's an excellent tip. 2) Another excellent tip. 3) I went with the clips after melting several strips while trying to solder them. My eyes ain't what they used to be!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I know whatcha mean. I'm over 60 but I've needed THICK glasses since first grade. I wore only contacts for over 30 years, but now mainly wear glasses as my close-up vision is extremely good. I just slide them down a bit to see up close. Still, I have a bunch of magnifying glasses! Forgot to say in my last post... great videos! 👍😃
@@E3Racer1 thanks!!
Can i use a 9 volt battery just checking my transformer is put away
The answer to both questions depends on the input voltage of the particular LEDs, but both should work. A 9v battery won't last long, though.
Are all leds dc oe sc volt
LEDs are diodes. Diodes allow current to pass in only one direction. You can run them on either DC or AC. The AC will make them flash on and off at 60 cycles, but that's faster than the eye can detect.
Great Tip, Thanks I am always looking for new types of lighting. A very good example and instruction. Be Blessed annd "Happy Rails". GMan
Glad to help! Thanks for watching.
Where do you get your self adhesive led lights st
Amazon [affiliate link] amzn.to/44eiHUV
Love your videos, you might want to update this link, it is for a 24 volt light set which takes a higher voltage to even come on than what I run my layout lighting circuit voltage at, found that out when I ordered these without paying attention to the voltage, need to find a 12 volt set to order now!
@@Craigstoytrains Thanks for the heads-up. They must have switched the products.
I use those LED strips all the time in model railroading. I use them to light up coaches and houses as well. If you have a lot of houses and buildings, you can run buss wires (one +, one -) underneath and connect the LED strips from each building to the buss. You can also use small magnet wire on those 12 Volt LED strips. If you use a single LED, then you have to use a dropping resistor. The LED strips have dropping (ballast) resistors already installed on the strips. For flicker free non directional coach lighting (HO and O scale) I use about 12 LED's on each strip along with a mini full wave bridge rectifier and a 3200uF capacitor all mounted into the car body. I have a 12 volt 5 amp switching DC power supply to supply the voltages to all the houses and buildings on the layout. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Thanks for the information! I love East Tenn. We'll be vacationing in PForge this summer.
Very informative video. If I might add, the three LEDs in each "block" are wired in series, but then the blocks are wired in parallel. Therefore each block will operate on 12 volts and you can power as many blocks as you like. However, the longer the string of lights you run, the more current it will draw. One block draws very little current but a fifteen foot length of lights is rated at two and one half amps. So very long strings can require a pretty hefty transformer or power supply. As such, I do not recommend using them for general lighting, but they are great for what you are doing.
Thanks for the comments. I know a bit of the "why things work" in electronics, but not so much the actual math, which is why I wanted to "experiment" with them myself. It makes sense that longer strings will pull more amps. Thanks again !
Your thoughts on using the 'warm white' version to light the interiors of my Plasticville ranch homes? Thank you!
I think it would work. Just keep the light intensity low or the LED will shine through those thin plastic walls (or paint the interior walls if you are not concerned with original authenticity).
I like this idea, but I would want a warmer color to match the other existing/older lights on the layout. Do they make such a thing?
Yes. "Warm White" is also a color option. These are "Bright White".
Very good info.! Thank You 👍🏻😊
Glad it was helpful!