It's been a very long time! I always intended to be a model train channel, after making a small test diorama and filming it (realistic scenery vol.1) people really liked it and then the TH-cam algorithm confirmed it by giving those types of videos lots of exposure, then I started doing more dioramas because that's what the people wanted and what was doing well with the algorithm! This time last year I decided to get back to the roots of the channel and start doing trains again, I know I'll lose a lot of subscribers because it's a different topic than what a lot of people subscribed for, and the views will drop quite a bit but in the end it's a hobby and I want to enjoy it, train modelling is what I always wanted to do so it was about time I got back to it!
@@BoulderCreekRailroad I think I recall talking about the change from trains to diorama a long time ago. I kind of stayed on the trains but you made the change. But in a way it was a huge win for you over the years.. Glad to see you getting a layout going again.
Luke, Don't focus on the numbers. Each January one of my modeling clubs return to our beginning. We offer weekly building seminars of building various scale RxR layouts through to rail operations in 52 weeks. When the New Year commences we start all over again. And each year (excluding the pandemic years) the class size grows and grows. It's good to set a date. Start. Finish. And restart again for new comers and refresher for vets to review. Good job bloke. Jim in N.Y., U.S.A.
@@BoulderCreekRailroad Those unsubbing will certainly miss a lot of tips regarding scale modeling. Their loss. Me? Nah, mate. I'm here to stay. Even as an aircraft modeler there's beauty to behold on watching someone build a layout like this. Each video is full of clever techniques and modeling tips. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
@@BoulderCreekRailroadI'm enjoying the model train videos because you put the same care and detail into each step. I'll probably never make a model railroad or diorama but I really enjoy watching you make them
I have followed many layout builds from start to finish but I think this one will be one of my favorites because of what I know about your incredible scenery techniques which are well documented. Your level of detail and precision with the benchwork is only leading to my anticipation as you eventually begin scenery. A true craftsman in every respect.
Small tip on hemming curtains (or most anything else): Do a double fold rather than a single fold. The single fold hem gets rid of the selvedge edge from the front, but if you look from the back you have a rough edge on the hem. If you fold it twice, the selvedge edge is hidden inside the hem, and it looks pretty from both sides.
Hey Luke. A little tip for cutting fascia that I discovered. Take two pieces that will be next to each other and overlap them an inch or 2. Then carefully cut through both. No matter if the cut is a little bit off line, the two pieces will still line up perfectly.
incredible build, I love following along. As a sewer, you did perfectly well, don't worry too much about it. For a neater look, you may want to turn your hem one more time, to encase the raw edge to prevent fraying. But since it's a curtain, I doubt it would matter. The design of the recessed control panel is genious btw
ha ha that's a really good tip for sewing 😊 I was actually surprised at how easy it was to get a basic sew going, I'm sure there's all sorts of complex patterns and techniques but for a basic hem it was pretty straight forward. Saying that though, that's probably all I will ever achieve in my sewing career 😄 I have some more curtains to do, I'll definitely do the double fold you suggested!
Good day Luke, A very fine quick build tutorial. I fully enjoyed it. One consideration when build modular foam beds. When gluing the foam down to the bench work wrap the adjoining modules edge in parchment or waxpaper. This will act as a dam should the surface your working on weep out excess adhesive. When dry merely pull the paper off. A clean and solid joint. Jim in N.Y., U.S.A.
Personally, for large foam work, I really reccomend a larger, a bit thicker gage, hot wire cutter. That needs to be self build, but it worth it. While it wont do as fine work as the normal ones, they are really good at quickly cutting large parts into shape. I also reccomend making big and solid stops for straight cuts, and an adjustible cicle jig (basically either a slit that you can insert a holder with a pin into the base plate, or a plate that goes on the base plate and has a pin and a slit for the wire in it so it can be slid back and forth an be adjusted) for it. That works na lot better than a hot knife. Mine just eats thick EPS for breakfast. Cuts very fast and clean. A bandsaw is okey, but the dust, especially for larger parts, is nasty and annoying. It is fine enough to get everywhere, not good when breathed in, and tends to get charged electrostatic and sticks to everything. I really hate that dust. It also clogs everything, form tool cooling vents to buttons and gears. Especially if it manages to get into contact with oil or grease. It just turns into a sticky, goey gunk that, dpending on what oil or grease it is, can even harden into a rubbery resin like substance. And obviously that mix is also quiet flammable. Had to learn that the hard way when my scroll saw caught fire and cleaning all my tools was not fun at all.
yeah I'd love a stronger more powerful foam cutter. To be honest I don't cut large areas of foam all that often and the smaller cutters are usually ok. If I was cutting big sheets like this more regularly I'd probably invest in a better foam cutter 😊
@@BoulderCreekRailroad You can make these quiet modular/extendable. If you have a big range of power for it, you can also make a base device that works as a small one, that can easily be extended with a longer/deeper arm and a bigger base plate to work on. That actually my solution. Most of the time it’s a small device, but I have the bigger arm and plate assembly (which together are very flat) behind one of my shelves.
😄 it was actually very satisfying using the sewing machine! Glad you liked it. P.S. I've been loving your videos as well, coffee and trains is great! I just wish it went longer 😄 I could watch an hour long episode... Keep up the hard work, it's tough putting in such a large amount of work for a hobby but it doesn't go unappreciated 👍
Great stuff, Luke. Finishing touches like a curtain help keep it looking nice in a room, even when under construction. A ready made black, pleated table skirt with a strip of velcro across the top edge is what I went with for curtain. Your lighting is really awesome. I've got a roll of those regular LED's and a layout that could use some valance lighting one day in the future. Thanks for the inspiration and how-to.
I almost went with the velcro idea... I changed at the last minute to the eyelets. The pleated look would probably look nicer as well, I can always upgrade the curtains since I use the cheapest fabric I could get so it won't be a bit loss to get something nicer later on. Yeah the lighting makes quite a difference, really draws attention to the tracks!
There's zero scenery and less resin but I can already see just how incredible this is going to look when it's all done. If I'm ever Down Under, I would love to be able to pop round and see the finished layout in all its glory - you're going to have to sell tickets or something! :D
All of these improvements go a long way to making your layout look great. They also focus the viewers attention on the layout itself. I do enjoy the high production quality and clarity of description in your videos.
Thank you very much! It certainly make the whole room look much nicer. I have some carpet to put down under the layout as well but I'll wait until I finish the scenery before doing that because it can get quite messy!
Luke, the only thing worse than unsealed concrete on a floor for keeping an area dust free is carpet. There are plenty of concrete sealers and anti-fatigue mats and tiles that you might consider. In my last basement, I sealed the floor and glued down a very tight weave low pile commercial carpet down and every time you walk or vacuum it puts a lot of dust in the air. You can see it in the air in the light and where the sun shines in the room. Before the carpet with just the floor sealed it did not do that.
Thanks so much! I think the next video will be a diorama followed by the dust prevention video shortly after. I have some ideas for a cool diorama I've been thinking about 😎
It's always good to see a Master at his craft - you've not even started the scenery or put the final coat on the facial and yet it already looks awesome. Excellent.
Thanks, you too! 😀 Did you end up seeing if Bunnings would get the foam in for you? P.S. if you have some images of your layout or what you're working on it would be great to see them, you can share them in the member post area on patreon if you want 😉
Hello Luke. You can protect such a structure against dust in at least two ways. Either cover your layout with polyethylene foam or make a second curtain. The first method is cheap, fast and light, the second one requires work and costs. Greetings from Poland
Here are some tips for next time. I would have included alignment pins and/or shims to the project similar to how tables with removable leaves work. It reinforces the position of the sides to each other, making bolt holes automatically line up. No need to spend time fighting to get the bolt all the way through. Also, you could have used a T nut on one side with prongs that embed into the wood, and then a bolt with a knob on the other. Reduces the amount of hardware that gets lost when the layout is moved. SEWING: - In order to hide the ratty edge of the fabric, seamstresses will fold the fabric over twice. This way, the ratty end is encased inside the cloth so it's hidden and will be less likely to unravel. - Depending on the fabric used, there are chalks and pencils used to mark lines on the work that will wash out. That, a straight edge, and some math(s), and you have an easy peasy seam. - Use pins to hold the material in place. - Once pinned, you can make the edges look crisper and the sewing work easier by ironing the edges. This gets the edges to lay flat against itself. - I would have folded over the top and sewn the curtains to fit a curtain rod. This makes accessing the underneath for storage and maintenance so much easier. Just slide them out of the way and then slide them back into position when done.
Thanks for the swing tips 😉 you'd have to watch the previous videos in the series to understand how the modules are aligned, there's more to it than just those bolts, that's just for the top of the layout.
Great stuff, but a small remark from an electronics engineer: I recommend against such a linear power supply for LEDs. Get a dedicated LED-strip controller / power supply. They are likely (much) cheaper and more suitable. If you get one that supports color temperature control, just add a third wire and split up the warm & cool LEDs can you can simulate a day-night cycle with relative ease. It's a good idea to power the neutral and 12V rails from opposite ends, because it helps with voltage drop on longer strings of LEDs, so not only because it's easier to solder :)
Hey Luke, I really enjoy this series! :) One suggestion, I can highly recommend you adding some diffuser panels on your lights, both to blend the light in better but also to avoid havnig multiple shadows on the layout.
Great progress Luke! I've been following your diorama videos for years, wich inspired me to build my own model railroad layout. So seeing you do the same is super exciting! I have already seen a lot of things i could have done better reflecting from your, but that makes me the more excited to see you working towards the scenery stage!
Awesome video once again. Very much appreciated. I actually decided to paint the undersides of my modules white, to help see things better whenever I'm working on the underside.
Great Project Luke. May I suggest you paint the underside (inside, or whatever you call it) a light color so that when wiring (or worse, repairing!) anything underneath the layout it will be much easier to see. This will also help with changes in humidity when the wood is sealed on both sides. And having that smooth white base to work from is a big benefit - marking wiring locations, switch points, block gaps and all the sneaky switch "black magic" is So much easier when you can see the dang thing! And while you're still a young man, lemme tell ya - old age is a hard taskmaster! Anything to making this job easier is a done deal in my humble opinion. Also, the drapes over the lower part of the module REALLY dress up the scene. Most of my modeling experience has been modular, and under the module is a GREAT place to store stuff. But having all the crap visible to guests is a real mood-killer. I really admire not only your creativity but also your willingness to share your skills and knowledge with everyone. Cheers mate, the nest cold one is on me. Ghost Of The SP
Copper tape covered in vinyl tape would make more attractive bus bars for the lights, you can just burn through the top layer of vinyl and solder onto the copper tape underneath where you need an connection.
Enjoyed the video Luke. The fascia and lights is something I really need to do for my layout. I like the effect of using two different colour temperatures of LED's it gives a nice effect. - Nicholas.
Glad you liked it! I always struggled to find an LED light that had the colour I wanted! A friend recently told be I could put the cool white and warm white on separate power supplies, that way I could lower one or the other to adjust the intensity of either the warm white or cool white which would give even more control over the colour temperature. Just an idea 😊 But I thought it was a pretty good one!
This was a fantastic tutorial. I always learn so much from your videos, thanks for sharing your methods and ideas. I’m looking forward to the dust prevention video.
I am really enjoying this series you are building. We are planning a layout and all ideas are appreciated. Your layout is going to be awesome, and I cannot wait to see the next video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us. Have a great day.
The other option for the foam is using the jigsaw, has the benefit of being able to do corners, as well as being able to move the tool and not the work, though of course the downside is the dust as per the bandsaw, but that's what the vacuum attachment is for... :)
Not sure if it would work for your build, but you can cut the fascia boards on a bevel. This would allow you to slip one joint behind the other effectively hiding the joint. Really enjoy watching your builds, very talented!
I love your style! If I ever get the space and resources to make my own, this series will be a valuable resource. Something I had in my head to do as well is perhaps make a helix to mount a second layer on top, and have it all run by DCC software, instead of manual switches.
What a fantastic build. The attention to detail is what really makes the project stand out. Looking forward to seeing the layout progress. Thanks for sharing.
If you're worried about gaps between pieces of fascia you could always cut the ends with a 45° angle on them, when you put them up there's some overlap and making them that inky black color makes any line almost disappear. There's also a number of trim moldings that you can do, e.g. tee molding, that overlaps both pieces but then you don't get a smooth transition from one section to the other, if that's important to you.
great tips! I like the idea of cutting a 45, it's probably a bit late for me to do that now though. I am still contemplating using a small decorative trim that will stick in place over the join, maybe with some strong magnets, like the trim I used for the control panel edges?
WOW, this entire project is amazing! Ive always seen your other projects and wondered what they would look like all together into a giant scene and I feel like this is going to answer that! I cant wait to see what else you do!
Awesome built as usual! However, let me give you a pro tip here (I'm, in other things, an engineer in electronics) It's about your LED power source. That kind of light device must not been dimmed by your voltage output at all! LED has minimum and maximum voltage input. So, in order to change the lumination, you need to use a single voltage that is in the LED limitation range but use a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) That type of device generates high-frequency square waveforms. The way it controls the LED lumination (Or motor speed) is by changing the "On/off" state length. A longer "on" state compared to "off" gives more light or speed. So you can dim your LED light output much more safely. :)
To be honest, I would have gone with addressable LED's and use their included power brick. First is that presumably the brick was engineered to prolong the life of the LEDs. Second is that you may want to change the lighting conditions to mimic different times of day and night. There's programs that can run on controllers and mini PCs like Arduinos and Raspberry Pis where you can set it to cycle a full day in a set time period. The downside is more time and money spent.
Wow, what a result, Luke! Incredible. Are you planning to take to model train shows in the future? Might be some great exposure for the channel. Glad you are getting back to what you love most. Do you think you will try and incorporate your existing diaromas on to the layout, or you gonna do it all from scratch? Can wait till the next update :)
I love your work and you have taught me so much. I would like to say that I think you could have done better than the white foam boards by cutting the same pcs out of wood and use a gloss white paint. It would give you better reflection of the light.
have you thought of having separate light switches for the different light temperatures? in that case you could have different daylight scenarios to play with.
So how long have you been wanting to get back to model trains?
It's been a very long time! I always intended to be a model train channel, after making a small test diorama and filming it (realistic scenery vol.1) people really liked it and then the TH-cam algorithm confirmed it by giving those types of videos lots of exposure, then I started doing more dioramas because that's what the people wanted and what was doing well with the algorithm!
This time last year I decided to get back to the roots of the channel and start doing trains again, I know I'll lose a lot of subscribers because it's a different topic than what a lot of people subscribed for, and the views will drop quite a bit but in the end it's a hobby and I want to enjoy it, train modelling is what I always wanted to do so it was about time I got back to it!
@@BoulderCreekRailroad I think I recall talking about the change from trains to diorama a long time ago. I kind of stayed on the trains but you made the change. But in a way it was a huge win for you over the years.. Glad to see you getting a layout going again.
Luke,
Don't focus on the numbers.
Each January one of my modeling clubs return to our beginning. We offer weekly building seminars of building various scale RxR layouts through to rail operations in 52 weeks.
When the New Year commences we start all over again. And each year (excluding the pandemic years) the class size grows and grows.
It's good to set a date. Start. Finish. And restart again for new comers and refresher for vets to review.
Good job bloke.
Jim in N.Y., U.S.A.
@@BoulderCreekRailroad Those unsubbing will certainly miss a lot of tips regarding scale modeling. Their loss. Me? Nah, mate. I'm here to stay. Even as an aircraft modeler there's beauty to behold on watching someone build a layout like this. Each video is full of clever techniques and modeling tips.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers.
@@BoulderCreekRailroadI'm enjoying the model train videos because you put the same care and detail into each step. I'll probably never make a model railroad or diorama but I really enjoy watching you make them
I have followed many layout builds from start to finish but I think this one will be one of my favorites because of what I know about your incredible scenery techniques which are well documented. Your level of detail and precision with the benchwork is only leading to my anticipation as you eventually begin scenery. A true craftsman in every respect.
Small tip on hemming curtains (or most anything else): Do a double fold rather than a single fold. The single fold hem gets rid of the selvedge edge from the front, but if you look from the back you have a rough edge on the hem. If you fold it twice, the selvedge edge is hidden inside the hem, and it looks pretty from both sides.
Your works makes my models easier. You just need to make videos that convince my wife 😅 Cheers from Madrid, Spain.
ha ha we could all do with some tips on convincing the wife 😄
It's great to see you building a layout again Luke, keep it up mate.
Hey Luke. A little tip for cutting fascia that I discovered. Take two pieces that will be next to each other and overlap them an inch or 2. Then carefully cut through both. No matter if the cut is a little bit off line, the two pieces will still line up perfectly.
I had thought the same, or perhaps cut them at an angle so they meet kind of over the top of each other.?? I dont know.
incredible build, I love following along. As a sewer, you did perfectly well, don't worry too much about it. For a neater look, you may want to turn your hem one more time, to encase the raw edge to prevent fraying. But since it's a curtain, I doubt it would matter. The design of the recessed control panel is genious btw
ha ha that's a really good tip for sewing 😊 I was actually surprised at how easy it was to get a basic sew going, I'm sure there's all sorts of complex patterns and techniques but for a basic hem it was pretty straight forward. Saying that though, that's probably all I will ever achieve in my sewing career 😄 I have some more curtains to do, I'll definitely do the double fold you suggested!
Good day Luke,
A very fine quick build tutorial. I fully enjoyed it.
One consideration when build modular foam beds. When gluing the foam down to the bench work wrap the adjoining modules edge in parchment or waxpaper. This will act as a dam should the surface your working on weep out excess adhesive. When dry merely pull the paper off. A clean and solid joint.
Jim in N.Y., U.S.A.
Personally, for large foam work, I really reccomend a larger, a bit thicker gage, hot wire cutter. That needs to be self build, but it worth it. While it wont do as fine work as the normal ones, they are really good at quickly cutting large parts into shape. I also reccomend making big and solid stops for straight cuts, and an adjustible cicle jig (basically either a slit that you can insert a holder with a pin into the base plate, or a plate that goes on the base plate and has a pin and a slit for the wire in it so it can be slid back and forth an be adjusted) for it.
That works na lot better than a hot knife. Mine just eats thick EPS for breakfast. Cuts very fast and clean.
A bandsaw is okey, but the dust, especially for larger parts, is nasty and annoying. It is fine enough to get everywhere, not good when breathed in, and tends to get charged electrostatic and sticks to everything. I really hate that dust. It also clogs everything, form tool cooling vents to buttons and gears. Especially if it manages to get into contact with oil or grease. It just turns into a sticky, goey gunk that, dpending on what oil or grease it is, can even harden into a rubbery resin like substance. And obviously that mix is also quiet flammable. Had to learn that the hard way when my scroll saw caught fire and cleaning all my tools was not fun at all.
yeah I'd love a stronger more powerful foam cutter. To be honest I don't cut large areas of foam all that often and the smaller cutters are usually ok. If I was cutting big sheets like this more regularly I'd probably invest in a better foam cutter 😊
@@BoulderCreekRailroad You can make these quiet modular/extendable. If you have a big range of power for it, you can also make a base device that works as a small one, that can easily be extended with a longer/deeper arm and a bigger base plate to work on. That actually my solution. Most of the time it’s a small device, but I have the bigger arm and plate assembly (which together are very flat) behind one of my shelves.
Everyone else is watching the fascia, lights and base material. I'm taking notes on sewing curtains. Loved this one!
😄 it was actually very satisfying using the sewing machine! Glad you liked it. P.S. I've been loving your videos as well, coffee and trains is great! I just wish it went longer 😄 I could watch an hour long episode...
Keep up the hard work, it's tough putting in such a large amount of work for a hobby but it doesn't go unappreciated 👍
Great stuff, Luke. Finishing touches like a curtain help keep it looking nice in a room, even when under construction.
A ready made black, pleated table skirt with a strip of velcro across the top edge is what I went with for curtain.
Your lighting is really awesome. I've got a roll of those regular LED's and a layout that could use some valance lighting one day in the future. Thanks for the inspiration and how-to.
I almost went with the velcro idea... I changed at the last minute to the eyelets. The pleated look would probably look nicer as well, I can always upgrade the curtains since I use the cheapest fabric I could get so it won't be a bit loss to get something nicer later on.
Yeah the lighting makes quite a difference, really draws attention to the tracks!
There's zero scenery and less resin but I can already see just how incredible this is going to look when it's all done.
If I'm ever Down Under, I would love to be able to pop round and see the finished layout in all its glory - you're going to have to sell tickets or something! :D
All of these improvements go a long way to making your layout look great. They also focus the viewers attention on the layout itself. I do enjoy the high production quality and clarity of description in your videos.
Thank you very much! It certainly make the whole room look much nicer. I have some carpet to put down under the layout as well but I'll wait until I finish the scenery before doing that because it can get quite messy!
Luke, the only thing worse than unsealed concrete on a floor for keeping an area dust free is carpet. There are plenty of concrete sealers and anti-fatigue mats and tiles that you might consider. In my last basement, I sealed the floor and glued down a very tight weave low pile commercial carpet down and every time you walk or vacuum it puts a lot of dust in the air. You can see it in the air in the light and where the sun shines in the room. Before the carpet with just the floor sealed it did not do that.
Thanks Luke. Love your work.
Really like the lights. Definitely going to use that design.
Stunning work, Luke! It's looking wonderful! Really well done! 😃
Looking forward to the next steps!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks so much! I think the next video will be a diorama followed by the dust prevention video shortly after. I have some ideas for a cool diorama I've been thinking about 😎
@@BoulderCreekRailroad Sweet! 😃
Boom, 1 min in and already the jigsaw tip I didn't even realise I needed! I'll be using that tomorrow I reckon. Cheers Luke
ha ha 😄 I'm glad you picked up a tip from the video! It's pretty handy!
It's always good to see a Master at his craft - you've not even started the scenery or put the final coat on the facial and yet it already looks awesome. Excellent.
Luke, looking really good, and coming along nicely.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Thanks, you too! 😀 Did you end up seeing if Bunnings would get the foam in for you?
P.S. if you have some images of your layout or what you're working on it would be great to see them, you can share them in the member post area on patreon if you want 😉
I remember when you started the channel and the plan for a layout. Great to see if coming together. And thanks for sharing!
Another great 'how to' Luke!!! Thank you for sharing it. Cheers Onno.
Hello Luke. You can protect such a structure against dust in at least two ways. Either cover your layout with polyethylene foam or make a second curtain. The first method is cheap, fast and light, the second one requires work and costs. Greetings from Poland
12:29 sewing is such auseful skill! My mom taught me the basics, I'm not good at it, but I can stitch when necessary
So glad you are progressing on this. Keep up the great work. I can't wait until the scenery portion begins.
Here are some tips for next time.
I would have included alignment pins and/or shims to the project similar to how tables with removable leaves work. It reinforces the position of the sides to each other, making bolt holes automatically line up. No need to spend time fighting to get the bolt all the way through. Also, you could have used a T nut on one side with prongs that embed into the wood, and then a bolt with a knob on the other. Reduces the amount of hardware that gets lost when the layout is moved.
SEWING:
- In order to hide the ratty edge of the fabric, seamstresses will fold the fabric over twice. This way, the ratty end is encased inside the cloth so it's hidden and will be less likely to unravel.
- Depending on the fabric used, there are chalks and pencils used to mark lines on the work that will wash out. That, a straight edge, and some math(s), and you have an easy peasy seam.
- Use pins to hold the material in place.
- Once pinned, you can make the edges look crisper and the sewing work easier by ironing the edges. This gets the edges to lay flat against itself.
- I would have folded over the top and sewn the curtains to fit a curtain rod. This makes accessing the underneath for storage and maintenance so much easier. Just slide them out of the way and then slide them back into position when done.
Thanks for the swing tips 😉 you'd have to watch the previous videos in the series to understand how the modules are aligned, there's more to it than just those bolts, that's just for the top of the layout.
@@BoulderCreekRailroadI did, but seeing how you had to align the tops before you clamped them together suggests the tops could use pins as well.
Great stuff, but a small remark from an electronics engineer: I recommend against such a linear power supply for LEDs. Get a dedicated LED-strip controller / power supply. They are likely (much) cheaper and more suitable. If you get one that supports color temperature control, just add a third wire and split up the warm & cool LEDs can you can simulate a day-night cycle with relative ease.
It's a good idea to power the neutral and 12V rails from opposite ends, because it helps with voltage drop on longer strings of LEDs, so not only because it's easier to solder :)
Very nice. You do spend a lot of time and money to ensure that every little thing is perfect.
Perfect, following along as I’m in the middle of creating my first layout (N Gauge).
Thanks Luke.
Ian
Loving these tutorials Luke. I was keen to see how to attach the black cloth so I will try your technique
Today’s my 20th birthday been watching you since I was 17
ha ha awesome! Happy 20th 🥳
i have been subed to your chanlle for many years Luke and you never cese to amaze me , your attension to detail is truly impecable . love ya work mate
Thank you so much 😀 Glad you've been enjoying the videos!
Hey Luke, I really enjoy this series! :)
One suggestion, I can highly recommend you adding some diffuser panels on your lights, both to blend the light in better but also to avoid havnig multiple shadows on the layout.
Great progress Luke! I've been following your diorama videos for years, wich inspired me to build my own model railroad layout. So seeing you do the same is super exciting! I have already seen a lot of things i could have done better reflecting from your, but that makes me the more excited to see you working towards the scenery stage!
Thanks mate, I'm glad I've been able to give you a bit of inspiration! Yeah I can wait to have some trains actually running through some scenery 😃
Enjoyed your video Luke and liked thanks for sharing DD.
Looking Fantastic, Loving this Series.
I will watch the entire video from beginning to end.
Nice to see a video come out. Keep ‘em coming 😊
Multi-talented, wow 👍
Awesome video once again. Very much appreciated.
I actually decided to paint the undersides of my modules white, to help see things better whenever I'm working on the underside.
This is a master class in model railroading. Such an impressive amount of attention to detail! Thanks for the instructions/insight into your methods!
Amazing and some incredible information as always!
heads up: if you get a Scallop-style blade for your bandsaw, it cuts foam way better than your typical skip-tooth blade.
Very nice my friend! 👍
Loving this series Luke, it’s looking fantastic!
Thanks heaps, I'm really liking how it's turning out so I'm glad you think so as well 😊
Looks fantastic, very impressive
Thank you! Cheers!
Love these films. Support from Scotland. 👍🏼
Thanks mate 😉
Great Project Luke. May I suggest you paint the underside (inside, or whatever you call it) a light color so that when wiring (or worse, repairing!) anything underneath the layout it will be much easier to see. This will also help with changes in humidity when the wood is sealed on both sides. And having that smooth white base to work from is a big benefit - marking wiring locations, switch points, block gaps and all the sneaky switch "black magic" is So much easier when you can see the dang thing! And while you're still a young man, lemme tell ya - old age is a hard taskmaster! Anything to making this job easier is a done deal in my humble opinion.
Also, the drapes over the lower part of the module REALLY dress up the scene. Most of my modeling experience has been modular, and under the module is a GREAT place to store stuff. But having all the crap visible to guests is a real mood-killer.
I really admire not only your creativity but also your willingness to share your skills and knowledge with everyone.
Cheers mate, the nest cold one is on me.
Ghost Of The SP
Looking great Luke, well done.
Just excellent Luke, thanks so much
Copper tape covered in vinyl tape would make more attractive bus bars for the lights, you can just burn through the top layer of vinyl and solder onto the copper tape underneath where you need an connection.
Top effort mate
Thanks 👍
This. Is. Amazing.
I love this series you are working on now. Really look forward to your next video.
Wow! Fantastic as usual!
Amazing as always..
Enjoyed the video Luke. The fascia and lights is something I really need to do for my layout. I like the effect of using two different colour temperatures of LED's it gives a nice effect. - Nicholas.
Glad you liked it! I always struggled to find an LED light that had the colour I wanted! A friend recently told be I could put the cool white and warm white on separate power supplies, that way I could lower one or the other to adjust the intensity of either the warm white or cool white which would give even more control over the colour temperature.
Just an idea 😊 But I thought it was a pretty good one!
This is turning out amazing.
Thanks so much, I too am really happy with how it's turning out as well 😊
This was a fantastic tutorial. I always learn so much from your videos, thanks for sharing your methods and ideas. I’m looking forward to the dust prevention video.
This series is very cool i hope one day in the future that i can make my own model railway
Looks very nice Luke. A technique we used on our HO modules was to attach the black cloth using velcro strips.
Great video, fantastic update
I cant wait to see this up and running :D very well done as expected.
I am really enjoying this series you are building. We are planning a layout and all ideas are appreciated. Your layout is going to be awesome, and I cannot wait to see the next video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us. Have a great day.
Love this series!
Lots of clever ideas in there! Who says pilots aren't as smart as us engineers :-D
Congratulations on a job well done!
Stopper on the knob has that wild ElectroBOOM heated chair vibe 😂
Always a Pleasure and Inspiration to see. Greetings from the other Side of the World Hamburg/ Germany.
That's awesome!
The other option for the foam is using the jigsaw, has the benefit of being able to do corners, as well as being able to move the tool and not the work, though of course the downside is the dust as per the bandsaw, but that's what the vacuum attachment is for... :)
ha ha yeah it definitely made a mess! I'm still finding tiny bits of blue foam stuck to my pants... and that's after they went through the wash!
Amazing looking layout so far. 😊
Awesome video! Can’t wait to see how it turns out!
Thanks again Luke
No worries!
Looks fantastic Luke!
Awesome Luke!! Fantastic work, very tidy with the module fitting!!
Not sure if it would work for your build, but you can cut the fascia boards on a bevel. This would allow you to slip one joint behind the other effectively hiding the joint. Really enjoy watching your builds, very talented!
It Looks fantastic. Good Work.
Best Regards
Siebi
Thank you! Cheers!
I like your layout
I love your style! If I ever get the space and resources to make my own, this series will be a valuable resource. Something I had in my head to do as well is perhaps make a helix to mount a second layer on top, and have it all run by DCC software, instead of manual switches.
I was just looking at the other videos. I was wondering when another video was coming.
Yeah, it sometimes takes me a while to do videos, the next one is going to be a diorama tutorial again 😉
@LukeTowan both my wife and I love watching your videos. So we are looking forward to whatever you put out.
good vid looks good keepup the good vids thanks lee
Thanks Lee, will do! 😉
Yay. it's Towan day!
Fantastic
What a fantastic build. The attention to detail is what really makes the project stand out. Looking forward to seeing the layout progress. Thanks for sharing.
If you're worried about gaps between pieces of fascia you could always cut the ends with a 45° angle on them, when you put them up there's some overlap and making them that inky black color makes any line almost disappear. There's also a number of trim moldings that you can do, e.g. tee molding, that overlaps both pieces but then you don't get a smooth transition from one section to the other, if that's important to you.
great tips! I like the idea of cutting a 45, it's probably a bit late for me to do that now though. I am still contemplating using a small decorative trim that will stick in place over the join, maybe with some strong magnets, like the trim I used for the control panel edges?
Superb work Luke!
Nice!
This is perfect. Im about to start a model railroad myself. I use Z gauge myself tho because i have limited space :)
Oh cool, I'd love to do z scale but there isn't much in the way of locomotives and rolling stock for the Australian prototype 🙄 One day!
WOW, this entire project is amazing! Ive always seen your other projects and wondered what they would look like all together into a giant scene and I feel like this is going to answer that! I cant wait to see what else you do!
Are you considering taking it to an exhibition or two when it's all done?
Would be awesome to see it in person.
Today is a nice day!
It sure is 😎
Awesome built as usual! However, let me give you a pro tip here (I'm, in other things, an engineer in electronics) It's about your LED power source. That kind of light device must not been dimmed by your voltage output at all! LED has minimum and maximum voltage input. So, in order to change the lumination, you need to use a single voltage that is in the LED limitation range but use a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) That type of device generates high-frequency square waveforms. The way it controls the LED lumination (Or motor speed) is by changing the "On/off" state length. A longer "on" state compared to "off" gives more light or speed. So you can dim your LED light output much more safely. :)
To be honest, I would have gone with addressable LED's and use their included power brick. First is that presumably the brick was engineered to prolong the life of the LEDs. Second is that you may want to change the lighting conditions to mimic different times of day and night. There's programs that can run on controllers and mini PCs like Arduinos and Raspberry Pis where you can set it to cycle a full day in a set time period. The downside is more time and money spent.
Thankyou Australian Chuck Norris !
Ha ha... what a legend 😎
Danke!
Thank you so much, sorry I didn't reply earlier, I just figured out how to filter the comments by super chat.
Thank you so much 😊
Oh wow, I’d missed your last few videos! 😮
(I’ve hit the bell but I never get notifications 😐)
🇧🇷🚂👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Loving this series!!!
Very, very nice work Luke!
50% warm and 50% cool makes 100% tepid white
When are you coming over to NZ 😅could use a man of your skills 🎉🎉
Wow, what a result, Luke! Incredible. Are you planning to take to model train shows in the future? Might be some great exposure for the channel. Glad you are getting back to what you love most. Do you think you will try and incorporate your existing diaromas on to the layout, or you gonna do it all from scratch? Can wait till the next update :)
I love your work and you have taught me so much. I would like to say that I think you could have done better than the white foam boards by cutting the same pcs out of wood and use a gloss white paint. It would give you better reflection of the light.
have you thought of having separate light switches for the different light temperatures? in that case you could have different daylight scenarios to play with.