I have to thank you for this one. Your video certainly showed me how to make the conversion a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. i have already modified 9 switches with another 5 to go and have found that as long as I take my time, the work goes nice and steady. I found some lionel binder posts online and have been able to use those for the hot connection and in addition, when I find the common binding post loose, I can just replace it as well. The only drawback here is the nut for the new hot binder post is a bit too thick and needs to be ground down a tad with a dremmel. it all works great now, including the non-derailing function. Great video and I look forward to more tips.
I noticed in another clip that you use Marx switches. I added the non derailing function to a traction layout using Marx switches by isolating one of the common rails of the track right and left of the switch and connecting it to the common on the switch motor. Worked fine and allowed the layout to run without attention.
Thank you for this tutorial. Getting ready to do this to ten of my 1122s. After wiring in the constant voltage, can you use the old power tap for an additional track power tap? Seems like a waste to just leave it unused.
In the new 4-post configuration: Post closest to the motor, leave open OR connect to Common Bus (same as outside rails), Next 2 posts - straight and curved turnout control (Common from the controller) as before. New post: Constant Voltage (from Accessory posts or 2nd transformer) Hot (Common goes to common bus/outside rails). ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION: If you are using Lionel controllers, the center wire for the controller must be connected to your common bus / outside rails. The other two go to the corresponding switch posts.
I modified a 1121 switch. I did not need to add an extra post, I just cut the the hot lead and connected it to secondary power left common side untouched. I am having a problem with voltage drop. When I connect the switch power the voltage drops as if there is a short. I feel like the problem is with the common side? Any trouble shooting suggestions?
Hmmm. When you connected the hot lead to the post (I'm assuming it's the old Common post), did you isolate that post from the switch motor mount and the metal switch base? As designed, the Common post connects electrically with the solenoid through the switch motor mount. That's why I left my Common post intact.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks thanks for responding. I figured out the problem. I had the transformers plugged into a Dim Bulb Tester, which drew down the voltage when the circuit was connected. I didn't realize that would have such a major impact. Another issue is that some of the turnouts cause an interruption in power causing the train to stop? The problem is intermittent and I am not sure what causes this situation? Thanks for your help and videos
Are you getting an overload indication when the train stops/hiccups? If so, it could be a problem with certain power pickups. Sometimes if a roller pickup is loose, slightly off-center, or severely worn, it can simultaneously make contact with both the hot and common where the swiveling switch points (common) are closest to the center rail. I also find the problem frequently with MTH products as their rollers seem to be slightly wider than Lionel. There is no perfect solution - at least not one I have found. The best I have found is to apply a light coat of paint or nail polish to the swivel points in the vicinity to provide some insulation and reapply when it wears off.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks that very well could be the problem. The Locos bounce a little too. Old worn turnouts don't help Thanks again, I will try your suggestions.
In the new 4-post configuration: Post closest to the motor, leave open OR connect to Common Bus (same as outside rails), Next 2 posts - straight and curved turnout control (Common from the controller) as before. New post: Constant Voltage (from Accessory posts or 2nd transformer) Hot (Common goes to common bus/outside rails). ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION: If you are using Lionel controllers, the center wire for the controller must be connected to your common bus / outside rails. The other two go to the corresponding switch posts.
Yes. Lionel's O gauge switches, from the O22 onward, have an opening in the motor cover to accommodate a fixed voltage plug for constant voltage operation (see page 16-13 of the linked document). www.lionelsupport.com/media/servicedocuments/15132Complete.pdf
The plug goes to accessory "Hot". The switch is grounded (common) through the track. Also note: modern plugs (like the 5132) are a different size than the original Postwar O22, so match your plugs to your switches.
@@markcopeland4344 On a KW, U and C are the common posts. The others provide varying degrees of "hot". I suggest using C for common and D for hot on this circuit, which should provide around 14v constant voltage. ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/fileSendAction/fcType/0/fcOid/152054912776732583/filePointer/152054912784368404/fodoid/152054912784368400/imageType/MEDIUM/inlineImage/true/Lionel%2520Transformers%2520Post%2520Voltages.jpg
You just mentioned once that the transformer supplying power to the track and the transformer powering the constant voltage to the modified switch need to be phased. This should be stressed. There are a lot of youtube videos that go into why and how to great detail.
Also I am a little fuzzy on the theory, can you explain? Why the diode, the resistor and the T connection before the capacitor? This hobby takes us into areas like electronics, electrical theory, painting, sculpting, machining, etc. I find this aspect of the hobby the most rewarding.
I think you may be referring to the link supplied by Cynthia Mattox. As I stated in the video, I have not used the CD circuit myself, but I have seen it done. I know this is a DC circuit, so the diode converts the AC to DC. the capacitor stores the charge until it's needed, and the resistor (I think) controls the speed of the recharge of the capacitor - too fast and it defeats the purpose (constant power to switch solenoid) - too slow and the circuit is not recharged when the train arrives. Personally, I only know enough about electronic circuitry to get myself in trouble. I am not versed in the theory behind much of it.
Thank you for your response. I am setting up a crossover of two parallel tracks using 2 RH & 2 LH switches. As the train runs across two switches in series the voltage drop is a problem and the solenoids buzz like crazy, so you might have presented me with a solution to my problem. Constant voltage and delayed recharge of power to solenoid might just be the ticket.
I have to thank you for this one. Your video certainly showed me how to make the conversion a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. i have already modified 9 switches with another 5 to go and have found that as long as I take my time, the work goes nice and steady. I found some lionel binder posts online and have been able to use those for the hot connection and in addition, when I find the common binding post loose, I can just replace it as well. The only drawback here is the nut for the new hot binder post is a bit too thick and needs to be ground down a tad with a dremmel. it all works great now, including the non-derailing function. Great video and I look forward to more tips.
Wonderful! I'm glad the video has been helpful! Thanks for the feedback!
I just bought 5121 & 5122 and want to change them over to constant voltage. I didn't know how and you were extremely helpful. Thanks
Glad I could help
I noticed in another clip that you use Marx switches. I added the non derailing function to a traction layout using Marx switches by isolating one of the common rails of the track right and left of the switch and connecting it to the common on the switch motor. Worked fine and allowed the layout to run without attention.
Yes. Like this: th-cam.com/video/VpSiQfpvonE/w-d-xo.html
Good tutorial.
Thank you!
Love the intro music.
Thank you!
Thank you for this tutorial. Getting ready to do this to ten of my 1122s. After wiring in the constant voltage, can you use the old power tap for an additional track power tap? Seems like a waste to just leave it unused.
In the new 4-post configuration: Post closest to the motor, leave open OR connect to Common Bus (same as outside rails), Next 2 posts - straight and curved turnout control (Common from the controller) as before. New post: Constant Voltage (from Accessory posts or 2nd transformer) Hot (Common goes to common bus/outside rails).
ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION: If you are using Lionel controllers, the center wire for the controller must be connected to your common bus / outside rails. The other two go to the corresponding switch posts.
How is the motor attached to the common rail without the common post? You said it was redundant.
The motor is internally wired to the outside rails via the metal strips.
I modified a 1121 switch. I did not need to add an extra post, I just cut the the hot lead and connected it to secondary power left common side untouched. I am having a problem with voltage drop. When I connect the switch power the voltage drops as if there is a short. I feel like the problem is with the common side? Any trouble shooting suggestions?
Hmmm. When you connected the hot lead to the post (I'm assuming it's the old Common post), did you isolate that post from the switch motor mount and the metal switch base? As designed, the Common post connects electrically with the solenoid through the switch motor mount. That's why I left my Common post intact.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks thanks for responding. I figured out the problem. I had the transformers plugged into a Dim Bulb Tester, which drew down the voltage when the circuit was connected. I didn't realize that would have such a major impact. Another issue is that some of the turnouts cause an interruption in power causing the train to stop? The problem is intermittent and I am not sure what causes this situation?
Thanks for your help and videos
Are you getting an overload indication when the train stops/hiccups? If so, it could be a problem with certain power pickups. Sometimes if a roller pickup is loose, slightly off-center, or severely worn, it can simultaneously make contact with both the hot and common where the swiveling switch points (common) are closest to the center rail. I also find the problem frequently with MTH products as their rollers seem to be slightly wider than Lionel. There is no perfect solution - at least not one I have found. The best I have found is to apply a light coat of paint or nail polish to the swivel points in the vicinity to provide some insulation and reapply when it wears off.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks that very well could be the problem. The Locos bounce a little too. Old worn turnouts don't help
Thanks again, I will try your suggestions.
Does this require the same pin arrangement
In the new 4-post configuration: Post closest to the motor, leave open OR connect to Common Bus (same as outside rails), Next 2 posts - straight and curved turnout control (Common from the controller) as before. New post: Constant Voltage (from Accessory posts or 2nd transformer) Hot (Common goes to common bus/outside rails).
ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION: If you are using Lionel controllers, the center wire for the controller must be connected to your common bus / outside rails. The other two go to the corresponding switch posts.
Is there any way the old Lionel O gauge 5132 & 5133 T 0 can be powered independent from track power?
Yes. Lionel's O gauge switches, from the O22 onward, have an opening in the motor cover to accommodate a fixed voltage plug for constant voltage operation (see page 16-13 of the linked document). www.lionelsupport.com/media/servicedocuments/15132Complete.pdf
The plug goes to accessory "Hot". The switch is grounded (common) through the track. Also note: modern plugs (like the 5132) are a different size than the original Postwar O22, so match your plugs to your switches.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I tried the plugs connected to fixed terms on a Kw transformer where do I connect common lead from my Kw?
@@markcopeland4344 On a KW, U and C are the common posts. The others provide varying degrees of "hot". I suggest using C for common and D for hot on this circuit, which should provide around 14v constant voltage. ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/fileSendAction/fcType/0/fcOid/152054912776732583/filePointer/152054912784368404/fodoid/152054912784368400/imageType/MEDIUM/inlineImage/true/Lionel%2520Transformers%2520Post%2520Voltages.jpg
You just mentioned once that the transformer supplying power to the track and the transformer powering the constant voltage to the modified switch need to be phased. This should be stressed. There are a lot of youtube videos that go into why and how to great detail.
You are correct. I will add this annotation to the video with a link to my phasing tutorial. Thanks!
Also I am a little fuzzy on the theory, can you explain? Why the diode, the resistor and the T connection before the capacitor? This hobby takes us into areas like electronics, electrical theory, painting, sculpting, machining, etc. I find this aspect of the hobby the most rewarding.
I think you may be referring to the link supplied by Cynthia Mattox. As I stated in the video, I have not used the CD circuit myself, but I have seen it done. I know this is a DC circuit, so the diode converts the AC to DC. the capacitor stores the charge until it's needed, and the resistor (I think) controls the speed of the recharge of the capacitor - too fast and it defeats the purpose (constant power to switch solenoid) - too slow and the circuit is not recharged when the train arrives. Personally, I only know enough about electronic circuitry to get myself in trouble. I am not versed in the theory behind much of it.
Thank you for your response. I am setting up a crossover of two parallel tracks using 2 RH & 2 LH switches. As the train runs across two switches in series the voltage drop is a problem and the solenoids buzz like crazy, so you might have presented me with a solution to my problem. Constant voltage and delayed recharge of power to solenoid might just be the ticket.
Here is the link if you want to do the capacitor option. th-cam.com/video/hGNLN2MA7x0/w-d-xo.html
Forgetaoutit.