It is nice to see a quality video showing this procedure done, from start to finish. I have worked on a handful of these units (Samsung and LG since they are basically the same) and just replaced the LED's as needed. Haven't run into the "diode" issue yet. Found that the cost/availability of the strips were unpredictable, so I ended up getting a roll of replacement LED's for next to nothing instead.
I just did another one, same model that had 3 bad LEDs. Again just jumpered them out. When they are spread out like they were on this second set you do not notice them. This one is now my set, so I will be able to do some long term testing to see if having 3 blown and shorted out LEDs will have any impact on the rest. Like this one it came in cranked to 20. I will run this set 24/7 with the backlight set to 14 and see if there is any issues. I didn't film it the repair as it was essentially the same set, but just a smaller screen.
This video scared the living daylights out of me! I immediately switched my el cheapo LED TV on and reduced the backlight from 'high' to 'medium' and adjusted Bright/Contrast. accordingly. If it was my TV that blew out an led I would have attempted a bodge and instead of a jumper wire found a bright white led from a cycle light and bridged across or used a jumper and wired the replacement across the DC with a resistor! Under the circumstances, this fix worked for the TV intended purpose. Over the years I've fixed hundreds of things for people although I'm no expert, don't you just hate it when people say something like " Can you fix this (Amp TV Vacuum Cleaner etc) it's probably only a loose connection or wire?"
So glad I found this video. My 7-year old 55" had 1/3 of the screen showing a black band in the middle. Followed the steps in here and found out the middle 5/10 LED strips were out. After taking out the burnt Zener diodes and ID'ing 2 burnt LED'S on 2 separate strips, I soldered 2 jumps and now all the strips light up. Thanks a whole bunch!
Hello dear man! In my experience, I have noticed that if you reduce the intensity of light on LED-based screens, this may extend the life of the LEDs and prevent such malfunctions. And I'm not saying that this is an ideal situation, but it may work as a solution (to this particular type of mishap), and it is also expected to extend the life of the power supply, which will heat up less... And it's a great time for me to say thank you very much for the beautiful videos you create and share with us. Very enjoyable for me to watch you!!
Completely agree. I got a pal who replaces his LED TV every 2 or 3 years because the screen kept burning out. Yep, he cranks up the brightness and backlight to 90% on every set.
i agree turning them down should make them last longer. Ive got mine set at 47% and Ive turned off all the auto sensing bs which turns them up and down. you'd think they'd use better quality LEDs too. but hey when people burn them out people like Dave gets some work or free tvs. lol
I put Zeners across every single LED in a 47 or 50" LG set I repaired (after I replaced all the individual LEDs on the strips, about 70 of them). It had multiple LEDs burnt out literally, with the diffusor lens molten on them, in one spot the LED srip PCB has a big hole burnt into it. The still working LEDs also had their phosphor loaded resin filling cracked, so I replaced all of them (complete strips were not available, and would be too expensive if available). The driver operated the strips right at the absolute maximum current rating according to the LED's datasheet, so I replaced the current monitoring resistors in the LED driver to reduce the current by about 25%.
@@12voltvids Nope, they are 1.3W zeners (BZX85C series), soldered with short legs between the big copper islands on the PCB which the LEDs use as heatsinks, and I also applied thermal conductive glue between the body of the Zeners and the PCB. The calculated power dissipation is below the rated maximum of the Zeners, and I also tested it by not soldering in 3 LEDs, the Zeners were fine after hours of continous operation. They were 3.9V Zeners if I remember correctly (maybe 4.3V/4.7V, it was 2 years ago, I can't remember the numbers exactly), I've chosen the value to be just so much higher than the LED forward voltage, to prevent the Zeners stealing current from the LEDs during normal operation. The PSU has all kinds of protections, including output overvoltage protection. If the voltage climbs above a certain level during the constant current operation, the PSU shuts down (and this is independent from the primary current monitoring, it triggers before the primary overcurrent protection kicks in, so it doesn't shuts down just because the elevated voltage with the constant current obviously means higher power). So if a large number of LEDs die, the PSU will shut down because of the elevated voltage caused by the Zener voltage being higher than the LED voltage.
Thank you for this. I had same problem with the 60" version of this TV - UN60F6350. I replaced the entire set of LEDs which I found for $99 online. I wouldn't have tried the repair without this video. Unfortunately, I killed the display - possibly from static electricity. I made a $99 bet that I could fix it and lost. Oh well! Anyone need the boards or an LED set that was only powered up three times?
Hi 12voltvids, great job as he didn't want to spend any money on the set so jumping the bad on was as good as you could, pity in a way as a roll of led lights cost a bit but even using good saved from a set with a broken screen would be another way, but there again he wanted to spend nothing, so you are perfectly right jumping the bad one was the wat to go, truly a great video as usual and I love your work on this sort of set. excellent work, thanks for taking the time to make it, keep up the amazing work. 👍
These LED strips sell at shopjimmy for 60.00 US (80 CDN) plus 25.15 USD (28.69CDN) shipping ,and you just know that FedEx will slap another 44.60 in fees and taxes. 153.29 to purchase theses LED strips from Shopjimmy www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-cy-hf460cslv1h-led-strips-16-strips-interface-board.htm Then there is the labour on top of that. The TV isn't worth spending that on. Ebay is worse. they want 22.10 PER strip and there are 16 in the set. Even if only the 3 that popped were replaced that is still 66.30 for 3 of the 16. Shop jimmy is the cheapest but it is NOT worth doing, so please stop suggesting that. Nobody in their right mind would pay to have the LEDs replaced. When you can go buy a new 50" RCA 4K TV at Walmart for 239.95. So, this is the only viable option to get a set like this going, and the point of this video was to show how to test and how to get them going. Calling me a hack, or non professional just shows the world how ignorant you are. I don't need to prove to anyone my knowledge in electronics. I retired from this business in 2003. The reason I still do work on equipment for people, and they know how good I am, and that I am honest and not out to rip anyone off. That is why people come to me and not the guy with the flashy storefornt. That is why people ship me items to repair from all over the country both Canada and the USA. Because I do know what I am doing. The only time it would possible be worth replacing the LEDs is if you were doing your own TV and live in the USA where you could buy the set for 60, and the shipping within the US is cheaper. But shipping these across the border is highway robbery.
@@AThreeDogNight well that is what they charge and it cost much more to ship from the USA to Canada then back. For example a VCR was shipped up from South. It cost the owner 88.50 USD to ship it to me. To send same unit back it was 59.12 Canadian which would be about 48 USD to ship back. I had a camera shipped up from LA. Owner shipped it fed ex,. Cost them 42 us to ship to me. By post it was 28 to ship back, but fed ex assessed an additional 47.50 in broker and taxes. Someone at fed ex assessed a broken camera as being worth 100.00 us 130 CDN. So there was 12% tax added and 37.50 for broker charges. Needless to say that fee was added to the repair cost.
@@12voltvids . I know, it makes no sense at those prices, you'd think that you were buying the ship & other vehicles to transport it. It's just ridiculous.
Nice video as always reminds me of all the samsungs i repaired, i use to place all the sets face down on a flat surface a bit smaller then the screen with soft towel on top of that that stood on top of table so then i could release the outer bezel drop it down on the table below then i hooked up 4 strings mouted in the vesa mounts and then i carefully released the inner plastic frame. lifting the metal part up and sliding in a thin piece of plastic between then at last i could lift the entire assy up (but before you do carefully release the tape holding the plastic filters) then when i was down then you could just put it all back in reverse order :)
+12voltvids You will find that in every trade, some electricians are like that too, they don't want to help other people because they feel you must have gone through the getting qualified hoops that they once went through.
Next time; Thread some bolts into the stamped metal rear of the set as stand-offs. After watching you slam the entire set down on its circuit boards a few times I must share that tip. Further, the mounting points where designed to hold the weight of the set, even allowing you to suspend it in the air or hold it as you work.
Where I live, no one will give you service unless you are ready with big bucks. I wish I lived in a community that had honest, fair and skilled peeps still.
If I was making a living doing this i would be charging big bucks too. I don't do this for a living. I produce TH-cam videos for a living as my second job. I make much more from the advertising than repairs so i do repairs very reasonable so that people will actually fix the item, and thus provide me with something to make a video on, which over time will make me much more in the long run than fixing a single device. So everyone wins. I work a 4 day work week at my day job and that gives me 3 days a week to make videos.
Have exactly the same problem !!! Almost the same model, UN46F6300 (not 6350) great to find this video ! About 10 years old ! Laughed at 'buggered and bloody', you must be a Canadian or of British stock. How much would you charge for that fix if you didn't know the client ? at the moment in Houston I think I am junking it !
Is that receiver behind the LED backlight panel a RCA RT -2600 ? I have one that needs to be repaired ! It works fine until it heats up and after a loud pop the protection circuit kicks in and shuts down the receiver. I'm guessing to much current is what tripping the protection , so could be that a component is changing value when it heats or a cap gets leaky . Can you repair this unit? Let me know please! :)
@calee4nyaboy There were 3 strips that popped the protection but true only 1 LED that went out. Where it is you do not see it in the picture. Along the top or bottom you actually do see it more than off center. I have one that has 2 bad LEDs on the bottom row and they stick out like a sore thumb.
Hi , Thank you for sharing this video , I guess you can solder a regular high brightness white LED replacing the damaged one so that you get rid of the tiny dark spot on the final result .
No then you will have a bright spot and it will probably burn up quick. You can not see the dark spot unless you know where to look. I have a TV that has 3 dead led and unless I showed you where they are you wouldn't see them with an image. Perhaps a white screen but not an image.
Well done, that has to be the cheapest backlight repair possible :-D I hope your frend is not pulling a fast one on you, "Just a spare / workshop / shed " is something i have had too, for sale is often the result. I'm not being negative towards your frend, i'ts just the way people are, dishonest.
sure this has been said but would have been nice to see what you were actually clipping off for those of us that have no clue.. i am sure this is what is wrong with my Samsung as well..
Innate Gaming - yes I ended up breaking two. All others videos do the same thing. It’s a simple process yet it was hard to get them off. Now I need to find where to get some so when I put back. Plus my speakers were hard to take off. Ugh.
Great video and thumbs up. I have this SHARP and when I power it on, I see half the panel light up then go off. I have taken it apart and tested ALL the LED strips and they check out. I have stb voltage as well as 12 vts. I am puzzled with this problem. Might it be the PS causing this, or is the problem coming from the main board, and how would I separate the two boards when I need them connected to fire up the lights? Appreciate the assistance.
a friend of mine gave me his 6 year old 42 Inch LCD LG set which has dark and light spots which make the screen dark in places, the spots show up pretty well on a bright or a white picture, looking on this video of yours has given me the idea that some of the LEDS have failed. The UK retailer he bought it from (Currys PC World) said it was screen burn,
A jumper wire is a poor way to repair these, you end up increasing the voltage going to other led's and they will eventually fail. Also if you are NOT reducing the current the power supply is supplying, you are just going to have led after led fail. These newer sets are typically over driven by around 30%. Also the individual led's are available for purchase cheaply, it's better this was vs a jumper. Also checking the other led's is a good idea as some could be failing. Otherwise good job saving another one from the dump.
When they go bad, probaby others will fail soon too, if backight is set over 50% brightness. Also leds can be replaced individual BUT you should know the right specs for these very high powered tv led backlights (different than the ones uses on the cheap light strips!!) LG and samsung use different models and trying to repair individual or all leds on a strip has no yet given me any good result. Also soldering doesnt allow a lot of heat too long, so replacing is very difficult. Getting of is easy but soldering ON is difficult and sometimes impossible when the contacts are under down the individual led. Ordering complete from spaire tv or new ones on ALIXPRESS or Ebay is better , but order the correct models only! If you know what kind of type leds are used on Samsung you can also order them indidually cheap on Ebay or ALIXPRESS. Also using soft or rubber gloves should be used for placing back the panel if not you get stainy panels with grease handprints or dirt hairs and so between panel and backsheets. Better to use a soft tissue beneath or cloth (beware off static electric so ground yourself too). When first try these repair , you will probably break the lcd panel or COF bandchips when not careful enough SO BEWARE DOING THIS YOURSELF. ALso sometimes LCD panel is glued with tape in the baclight frame so you will tear is apart when not using a heatgun or other tool to get these big panels loose (on D series i found these taped panels!). But too much heat will ruin darken the backlight sheets so doing this for first is not easy! Also new samsung tv s are constructed so that you will tear apart the tv's panel , of not using any screws anymore. BEWARE of these new models wihtout any screws in the backs wheb buying a new tv!!
Coronadraht Even so, the dark spot at the bottom would be less intrusive when viewing content, especially letterboxed stuff where the dark spot would not be visible at all.
@@nyprince5922 Actually the opposite. Top and bottom more noticeable. I can show you video of TV I have with 3 bad LEDs One near top one on bottom row and one in middle. Unless I point out the one in the middle you won`t notice it. Mybuddy picked this one up last night and he couldn`t spot the one that popped until I put up a white screen and pointed it out. If you look severly off angle you can see a slight variation, but straight on you can`t.
That's what I did. After I got the panel and diffusers off I set the unit back into the back trim panel and reconnected the lead to the power switch. Obviously you want to make sure the control boards won't be touching anything that could short them out.
A little advice would be appreciated here. I've encountered a similar issue where 4 out of 8 of the LED strips aren't lighting up when I have the power on. However, when I have the power off and provide power directly to the strips themselves, the 4 strips not working under normal conditions all light up independently and all LEDs look to be operating. Any advice on what I should look at next?
Thanks to videos like yours and others I never have to buy a new TV for the latest high tech video display. Somebody else pays high dollar for the bleeding edge technology. Two or three years later when they start breaking I pick them up for free and repair them something I could not do a few years ago. 👍👍👍 thank you.
Thats how I ended up with a dozen or so plasma sets. Sure a couple are only good for games as they have a line or 2 in the picture but the rest work like new awaiting their day when I can put them in service.
Have you ever encountered a samsung tv where the backlight can light up, but it can't stay lit up? It comes on and blacks out 3 times and then gives up trying. If you power cycle it, it'll try again 3 times. This seems like a programmed failsafe. I've been able to confirm that the interface is still active while the screen is blacked out (flashlight around the border reflects and shows the menu and video. What I'm trying to do now is figure out where the point of failure is in keeping the backlight active.
Yes I have. I did a video on one doing that a few years ago. Don't ask me for the link I don't have it and it would take me just as long to find it. The trouble was done diodes on one of the srips if I remember
what did you do to the zener diode, cannot see what you were doing because your body blocked the camera. By the way , what does the zener diodes function in the ledstrips?
The zener is there so that is one diode in 1 half of the strip fails the rest still work. It provides a bypass for the dead circuit but they can short and kill half the strip. I just removed it. Extra parts.
I may undertake this with a 75 inch samsung (what do I have to lose right? Either it goes in the trash or I save it). But, where does one shop for model specific leds? (Samsung UN75J630D)
I dont find these flat LCD screens nearly as interesting as the old CRT stuff myself. Delicate finicky things they are. I'm old school i suppose... Good job though...
Watched a doc about how companies make their products with built in obsolescence, making them virtually unrepairable forcing you to buy a new product. This covers everything from washers, to TVs dishwasher etc. Some governments are now pushing companies to make things repairable as landfills are filling up with too much waste.
A doc on TH-cam? That would be someone's opinion. Companies don't design things to fail. They build things for a price using cheaper parts. Why? Because the buyers keep demanding cheaper and cheaper products. The Walmart's of the world demand a sell price and they only way to get there is to build cheaper and cheaper products.
I have a samsung curve TV had a partial darck screen as well but across the middle of the screen horrisontaly. did it had same problem broken LED strip light as well? please share how to fix it. thanks
@@thedancingqueenrandom152 Shipping charges depend on the size and weight. An old vintage radio would be very expensive to ship. Shipping would be far more expensive than the actual repair.
I noticed you mentioned this was a dimming tv. I have a Samsung UN46FH6030FXZA. The set turns on nice and bright but then dims after 2 seconds and is about 50% brightness. I replaced Main board, power supply and icon board, same dimming issue. Any suggestions on a fix? Scrap the TV?
The main board controls the led brightness via the power supply board by changing the pwm duty cycle of the dimming control line. The power supply changes the voltage. Now if both the main board and power supply are known to be good then the only thing left is a bad backlight.
@@12voltvids If we've already replaced the powerboard and mainboard with known good parts, what would it be about the LEDs that would cause them to come on like normal, then go black, and repeat that on/off once per second for 3 attempts before giving up?
@@user-ow6jk5ix5q shorts on the led strips. Some had diodes on them as well that would short out. I had one that half a strip went out on. There is a video i did on it.
Can anyone tell me the part number for the smd LED's used in these? They seem to be 3030's but 3 or 6v..1W? Samsung UN50M530DAF thanks. Wont restrip for 1 bad LED.
Only a question, considering LED are diodes, wouldn't be interesting to replace with with a diode to help reducing the overall current on the other LEDs? I know in this case you are not allowed to spend, but in electronic terms, wouldn't that be better?
Constant current power supply. Remember that 27 went out when the zeners popped. The remainders did not go nova. The reason the power supply limits the current. So I could put 1 or 60LEDs on the power rail and it would not blow it, because the voltage drop is constant across a diode, and the power supply (Ballast) is regulating the current. So many are thinking in the analog power supply world. Yes if you had a igh current DC supply, and you were putting your LEDs in series. Lets say 10 LEDS, and you had a 30 volt supply. 3 volts per LED no current limit. Now you take one out and force 3.3 volts through each of the others they are going to overheat. But on a current limited supply the current say limited to 10mA the voltage would drop from 30v to 27v on the power supply.
thank you for a great video, but you did not show how you get the led to come on after you have disconnected the power from the tv, the back cover has the remote control sensor and its disconnected from the control board inside during disassembly
thx so much for the instruction, i temporarily hooked the sensor back on and plug the poeer back in, all the good strips lite up and the bad one identified.
Great vid. My LG tv recently ended up having almost the right side of the panel a bit dim compared to the left side. This happened after a power surge during a lightning storm. Any thoughts on what was damaged inside the tv?
I always stress to my tv repair customers to buy the extended warranty when buying a flat screen tv. They are all prone to failure and designed to blow out several circuit boards when a component shorts out and the quality control sucks on all new electronics. They are designed with surface mount chips that can’t be serviced on the circuit board
"I don't want to spend anything, but get it working" If that's literally what he said, the TV would be at the bottom of my pile, maybe forever, friend or not.
It's a good friend that I have known since I was about 13. Went through high school from grade 8 with him, and worked with him for 20 years at the TV shop we both worked at. He runs his own pre-wire company and I get to work in homes he has wired when I am doing my fiber / internet / tv install. He makes my life very easy for me, because when I show up at a house he has prepped, I can walk in, put 3 connectors on fiber he has already run, plug in the ont, plug in ethernet he has already run and terminated and plug in STB and wifi extenders. Literally a job that would normally take about 4 hours I am done in about 45 minutes. He may not be paying me much to fix these sets, but I am making money from the youtube video, and over the years will make far, far more than I could ever charge.
I got another surprise for you. Go into the service menu and change it to a 3d tv. Some of them have that option available as well as Bluetooth to set up wireless keyboard or pointer remotes.
Thank you very much Dave for teaching me that one. I thought they were only normal diodes. Let me ask a silly question now, as if you never get any. LOL!!!! Can these be made to operate say like Christmas string lights? You know, where if one goes out it doesn't effect the others?
The reason they are wired in series is for efficiency. Had they been in parallel you would need a 3 volt supply with current capabilities high enough to power however many diodes are in in the panel. This one has 120 diodes. Saw each one is 1 watt you would need a 3 volt 120 watt power supply. 300 ma x 120 so that is what about 36 amps of current. That's going to need a beefy power supply and heavy wires to deliver all that current. In series the power supply will make about 360 volts at 300ma. A very small efficient transformer and small wires increase the efficiency. I just noticed that my "new" 4k test set has developed a popped led and I have never run that TV over 70%. Also it is only a test set. It is mounted to the wall on my office and it only turned on to view 4k content so it has very low hours on it. It gets used perhaps 2 hours a month if that as I don't watch TV in my office. I edit and use a plasma for that and have the 4k just to check my 4k content before I post it.
@@12voltvids , OK now that makes sense. Seems weird that playing out that soon on your shop TV. Maybe run it at 50% like mine. But I do run mine a lot more. Hmmmm.???
Too much work. Don't have any new ones. My old TV has been running with 2 popped LEDs for 2 years and is still going so it is not a reliability issue. Update panel firmware and the the backlight down to 70% or less will go a long way to increasing the life of the LEDs.
What is part number of these leds and amps/ voltage? I'd buy a strip of 100 of i knew the correct part number. Tried a random one unsoldered from another display and it was very dim. Soldering is not that hard with a hot air or heating the back on a hot plate
@@12voltvids Thanks, I searched for it online and realized it meant what it sounded like. derp I have a UN46F6300 (similar to this video) that had a screen with dimmed LEDs for 2-3 years, then one day the entire screen went out and stopped turning on. No picture, no audio, but standby light would flash (like in your other video watch?v=fXMkncvcsZI). Flashlight to screen didn’t show anything. I removed the Main Board ribbon and the LEDs didn't turn on as expected. We didn’t know what else to test cause the Power Supply’s schematics aren’t public and the board’s legend is a bit complicated and really tiny. Nothing was bulging but the board was slightly burnt dark. We then opened the panel up and tested the LEDs individually with meters and found all LEDs would light up except 2 in different places. When the TV did work before it failed, the entire bottom of the screen was dark for years. I don't know if 2 individual open LEDs would cause the entire bottom half to darken, then eventually the entire screen, but we plan to jerry-rig-jump the 2 dead ones like you demonstrated. And replace the Power Supply board. Some questions, if you've got time: A) 13:02 Here, you just plug the TV in to test all LED strips. But if your panel isn’t working (like mine), how would you test the entire screen like you did here? Since my TV isn’t just dimmed but dead entirely, where would you direct the voltage meter and at how much voltage? Do I multiply the amount of LEDs by 3 and just guess- then stick it on the diode on the vertical left strip? B) 15:00-16:30 and 19:26 Here, you posit the Zener diode at the vertical leftside strip’s end may be the problem. You then snap something off and it fixed 1 strip. What did you pop out exactly? The video didn’t show. You also popped another off but it didn't fix the 2nd. What the heck was it? I ask because the vertical/leftside strip isn't easily accessible online to purchase so I want to know if I should even try messing with it.
@@shadow.banned It was a zener diode that shorted. Extra parts. It was there so that if a single led went open it would conduct and bypass that strip and keep the set running with a dead strip. Unfortunately it couldn't handle the current and failed killing the entire backlight.
I remember that Lee Kun-Hee, former CEO of Samsung, following the "Declaration of Frankfurt" in 1993, decided to destroy all the junk smartphones they had been producing so far in order to provide a better quality in their next generation smartphones. Maybe in 2020, they should do the same with their TV's, which are basically disposable garbage. One advise to the people that have "multiple million dollar homes": please spend 1,000 extra for a decent TV. I guess you can :D
The story went more like this. The phones were all defective. They had a design flaw. He took all the phones they had in the facility put them in a pile, summoned the workers and destroyed them all stating that they would not sell a substandard product. I have several Samsung tvs and mine are working great. Even my plasma with a cracked screen still works.
@@12voltvids Still, I notice Samwha capacitors on the power supply board. To me that's a red flag right off the bat. As I open up every electronic device I buy (we're electronics enthousiast after all ^^), I dispose of every item, whether it's a TV or a lab power supply, that contains crap components. Samwha is a South Korean brand, in general chinese brands are even worse. I once tossed out a Sony DA3200 amplifier, right after it came brand new out of the box, because I found a couple of Samwha caps. It's a pity because all the other caps were decent Japanese ones. I also replaced the power supply of my Rohde&Swartz RTB2002 oscilloscope before powering it up for the first time. Not sure what's gotten into them, R&S use Epcos mains filters, Nichicon caps and even Isabellenhütte power resistors, yet they chose to integrate a junk power supply into their otherwise brilliant oscilloscope. equivalent
@@leonjohnsonjr3331 when they get that big you need some glazers suction cups and a brace bar. The screen needs multi point support or it is going to break. I would probably turn that down too. I really don't want to get into repairing TV's again. I left that business in 2003 and now only do work for certain clients that I built a relationship with over the years.
its funny watching somone do what i do every day,sorry but that 1 failed led would of anoyed me and i would of had to fix it.typicly a 9 led rail will take 24 dc volts but if 1 led is shorted it spreads the 24 dc volts to the remaining 8 leds making them brighter and more prone to fail.i salvage the led strips from broken screen tvs but rather than changing the whole srtip i replace the faulty leds,on ocation iv found burnt out pads underneath them and had to do jumper wires ,but found an easyer way of piggy backing a good led and lense onto the strip and soldering onto the rail.after every repair i do i change the backlight settings to match the size of the screen 42" 42% and never had 1 come back.
Actually there are 60 LEDS in series, so the voltage increase across each LED will go up .05 volts per LED. This is NOT going to affect the life span whatsoever, especially since I educate the user to turn down the backlights to 75% max, so they are not going to be over driven. Also, the power supply is a constant current supply. The same board is used on both the 40 and 46" version. The 40 has far fewer LEDs than the 46, and yet hmm they manage to work just fine. How, because the power supply is a constant current. Voltage doesn't kill LEDs current does. There will be a constant voltage drop across the junction no matter what. So the LED will not see 3.05 volts, it will still drop only 3.0 volts, because that is how an LED works. When the zeners shorted bypassing 27 of the LEDs why did the remainders that still had power (remember these are in series) not go super nova and burn out? Simple, constant current power supply. One for the top half and one for the bottom. Of course if you actually understand how these sets worked you would never have posted this comment. I have fixed several LED sets (not every one gets a video posted, the next one of this model won't because it has been done before) and never had one return, plus I have one myself I jumped an LED on 3 years ago and it is still going strong.
@@12voltvids1st im not having a pop at ya fella,just 1 dead led does my head in lol.iv seen these led rails in loads fof samsungs but ever come across the zeners shorted out normaly burnt out led in series causing the rest of the rail to fail.i aggree with you,no money in so no sence replacing the rail and fix is a fix,ps i am familer with scamsungs lol,keep up the awsume vids and hope i aint upset you sorry if have :o)
@@oblioi Just got another one. 2 LEDs popped on the top half but they are black and passing current as the rest are working. Bottom half out so one has gone open. Probably won't film this one though as I have already done this model.
@@oblioi All I know is these led sets are anything but reliable. I am hanging on to my Sony LCD and all my plasma sets. My daughter has the Sony xbr I put the Gama chip in. It looks great and has outlasted the set that replaced it, because the person that gave it to me brought me their LG set with popped LEDs.
If you go to the Community group in the samsung website you will see that this is a common problem with these tv's. Looks like 55" are especially affected. less than 3 years and you have to pay $300 to fix it? If they have the parts? and you are getting the same sh-t parts that failed the first time. Never buy Samsung again.
playlist55 - have 60 JS 7000 this happened to mine two years in. Samsung is bad and good luck trying to find parts. I can’t find strips that seem legit.
Buy a used crt tv at a thrift store. It will last for decades compared to this new flatscreen crap and some parts are still available for crt sets if they break.
You know why it hums? Because it doesn't know the words! Seriously though it will need all the paper capacitors and electrolytic caps replaces, and likely that is all. Don't run it untill they have been replaces as they go electrically leaky and this can incenerate tubes, coils, transformers ect due to tubes going into full conduction. I have several old radios of my own, a very old Rogers and Strongberg Carlson, and an old GE, Marconi and Pye radio from just after the war. An old Halicrafters and a late 50's Rogers and an early 60's Electrohome and Nordmande stereo. I still need to restore the Halicrafters and Nordmande radio but the others have been fully recapped.
If you pass on LED replacement you must have to pass on 75% of the broken TV's that come your way. That seems to be the most common issues from TV's manufacted in the last 10 year's. It's really not that bad to do. Typically only takes 15 minutes to get down to them.
@@12voltvids на заводе ток делают большим и диоды греются в России мастера всегда уменьшают ток на 30 % и диоды меньше греются сколько стоит такой ремонт в США ?
Mike, that is the oldest BS ; Idont want to spend a lot of money; your reply is “ 2 things in equal amounts will fix this: your money and my time “ your labor on this was $75 at least. Quit giving away your skis. Charge the guy!,
I don't know about where you live, but here people are wealthy, and will not hesitate to replace something. It comes in and they say I will spend 50 or 75 or 100 on this and not a penny more. So these is a choice. Fix it for under their limit, or don't fix it at all. There is a reason I got out of this line of work in 2003. I did this for a living from 1984 through to 2003, and in that last 6 months there was no money in the business. There were days I would sit around the shop for 9 hours and make perhaps 50.00 take home pay. There were no easy money VCRs to fix, DVD players were dirt cheap, HDTV was brand new and people were chucking their CRT televisions many times before they broke down. Things may be different in economies where people are tight for money, but in my neighborhood people have money, lots of it, and they will spend it on the newest toys, and not on repairing their old equipment. I'm no different though. When my old car started to act up, rather than spending more money on it, I drove it to the dealer and drive home in a new one.
It is nice to see a quality video showing this procedure done, from start to finish. I have worked on a handful of these units (Samsung and LG since they are basically the same) and just replaced the LED's as needed. Haven't run into the "diode" issue yet. Found that the cost/availability of the strips were unpredictable, so I ended up getting a roll of replacement LED's for next to nothing instead.
I just did another one, same model that had 3 bad LEDs. Again just jumpered them out. When they are spread out like they were on this second set you do not notice them. This one is now my set, so I will be able to do some long term testing to see if having 3 blown and shorted out LEDs will have any impact on the rest. Like this one it came in cranked to 20. I will run this set 24/7 with the backlight set to 14 and see if there is any issues. I didn't film it the repair as it was essentially the same set, but just a smaller screen.
@@12voltvids any chance the jumper fix is still a good idea?
@@jamesleija9781 the tabs do cause problems still. My 63 plasma needed it done 2 years ago.
This video scared the living daylights out of me! I immediately switched my el cheapo LED TV on and reduced the backlight from 'high' to 'medium' and adjusted Bright/Contrast. accordingly. If it was my TV that blew out an led I would have attempted a bodge and instead of a jumper wire found a bright white led from a cycle light and bridged across or used a jumper and wired the replacement across the DC with a resistor! Under the circumstances, this fix worked for the TV intended purpose. Over the years I've fixed hundreds of things for people although I'm no expert, don't you just hate it when people say something like " Can you fix this (Amp TV Vacuum Cleaner etc) it's probably only a loose connection or wire?"
Another set saved from the landfill and a favor done for a good buddy. That's a win in my book.
And it is a teaching moment to teach others how to fix their own set.
So glad I found this video. My 7-year old 55" had 1/3 of the screen showing a black band in the middle. Followed the steps in here and found out the middle 5/10 LED strips were out. After taking out the burnt Zener diodes and ID'ing 2 burnt LED'S on 2 separate strips, I soldered 2 jumps and now all the strips light up. Thanks a whole bunch!
Jimmy, can you share how you get the led to come on after you have disassembled the tv?
Hello dear man!
In my experience, I have noticed that if you reduce the intensity of light on LED-based screens, this may extend the life of the LEDs and prevent such malfunctions.
And I'm not saying that this is an ideal situation, but it may work as a solution (to this particular type of mishap), and it is also expected to extend the life of the power supply, which will heat up less...
And it's a great time for me to say thank you very much for the beautiful videos you create and share with us. Very enjoyable for me to watch you!!
All led TV's should have the backlights set to 75% or less to keep the heat down and ensure long life.
Completely agree. I got a pal who replaces his LED TV every 2 or 3 years because the screen kept burning out. Yep, he cranks up the brightness and backlight to 90% on every set.
i agree turning them down should make them last longer. Ive got mine set at 47% and Ive turned off all the auto sensing bs which turns them up and down. you'd think they'd use better quality LEDs too. but hey when people burn them out people like Dave gets some work or free tvs. lol
I tell everyone 75% or lower will extend life. 50 is even better.
@@nyprince5922 I just run my old Plasma sets. Love em.
A riley scott film for the Hennessy commercial. You have hit the big time my friend wow.
I put Zeners across every single LED in a 47 or 50" LG set I repaired (after I replaced all the individual LEDs on the strips, about 70 of them). It had multiple LEDs burnt out literally, with the diffusor lens molten on them, in one spot the LED srip PCB has a big hole burnt into it. The still working LEDs also had their phosphor loaded resin filling cracked, so I replaced all of them (complete strips were not available, and would be too expensive if available). The driver operated the strips right at the absolute maximum current rating according to the LED's datasheet, so I replaced the current monitoring resistors in the LED driver to reduce the current by about 25%.
And then the zeners short, and blow the power supply. Nice.
@@12voltvids Nope, they are 1.3W zeners (BZX85C series), soldered with short legs between the big copper islands on the PCB which the LEDs use as heatsinks, and I also applied thermal conductive glue between the body of the Zeners and the PCB. The calculated power dissipation is below the rated maximum of the Zeners, and I also tested it by not soldering in 3 LEDs, the Zeners were fine after hours of continous operation.
They were 3.9V Zeners if I remember correctly (maybe 4.3V/4.7V, it was 2 years ago, I can't remember the numbers exactly), I've chosen the value to be just so much higher than the LED forward voltage, to prevent the Zeners stealing current from the LEDs during normal operation.
The PSU has all kinds of protections, including output overvoltage protection. If the voltage climbs above a certain level during the constant current operation, the PSU shuts down (and this is independent from the primary current monitoring, it triggers before the primary overcurrent protection kicks in, so it doesn't shuts down just because the elevated voltage with the constant current obviously means higher power). So if a large number of LEDs die, the PSU will shut down because of the elevated voltage caused by the Zener voltage being higher than the LED voltage.
Thank you for this. I had same problem with the 60" version of this TV - UN60F6350. I replaced the entire set of LEDs which I found for $99 online. I wouldn't have tried the repair without this video. Unfortunately, I killed the display - possibly from static electricity. I made a $99 bet that I could fix it and lost. Oh well! Anyone need the boards or an LED set that was only powered up three times?
Any chance you still have the led strips?
@@jamesleija9781 yes. Am tied up all day but will try and exchange contact info this evening.
Hi 12voltvids, great job as he didn't want to spend any money on the set so jumping the bad on was as good as you could, pity in a way as a roll of led lights cost a bit but even using good saved from a set with a broken screen would be another way, but there again he wanted to spend nothing, so you are perfectly right jumping the bad one was the wat to go, truly a great video as usual and I love your work on this sort of set. excellent work, thanks for taking the time to make it, keep up the amazing work. 👍
Nobody wants to spend any money fixing this crap.
Labor intensive. I would think the labor costs would be quite more than the parts. You do excellent jobs!
These LED strips sell at shopjimmy for 60.00 US (80 CDN) plus 25.15 USD (28.69CDN) shipping ,and you just know that FedEx will slap another 44.60 in fees and taxes. 153.29 to purchase theses LED strips from Shopjimmy
www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-cy-hf460cslv1h-led-strips-16-strips-interface-board.htm
Then there is the labour on top of that. The TV isn't worth spending that on.
Ebay is worse. they want 22.10 PER strip and there are 16 in the set.
Even if only the 3 that popped were replaced that is still 66.30 for 3 of the 16. Shop jimmy is the cheapest but it is NOT worth doing, so please stop suggesting that. Nobody in their right mind would pay to have the LEDs replaced. When you can go buy a new 50" RCA 4K TV at Walmart for 239.95.
So, this is the only viable option to get a set like this going, and the point of this video was to show how to test and how to get them going.
Calling me a hack, or non professional just shows the world how ignorant you are.
I don't need to prove to anyone my knowledge in electronics. I retired from this business in 2003. The reason I still do work on equipment for people, and they know how good I am, and that I am honest and not out to rip anyone off. That is why people come to me and not the guy with the flashy storefornt. That is why people ship me items to repair from all over the country both Canada and the USA. Because I do know what I am doing.
The only time it would possible be worth replacing the LEDs is if you were doing your own TV and live in the USA where you could buy the set for 60, and the shipping within the US is cheaper. But shipping these across the border is highway robbery.
@@12voltvids , I know that is crazy stupid prices for the shipping. Makes no sense at all to charge that much for something as light as that on top.
@@AThreeDogNight well that is what they charge and it cost much more to ship from the USA to Canada then back. For example a VCR was shipped up from South. It cost the owner 88.50 USD to ship it to me. To send same unit back it was 59.12 Canadian which would be about 48 USD to ship back. I had a camera shipped up from LA. Owner shipped it fed ex,. Cost them 42 us to ship to me. By post it was 28 to ship back, but fed ex assessed an additional 47.50 in broker and taxes. Someone at fed ex assessed a broken camera as being worth 100.00 us 130 CDN. So there was 12% tax added and 37.50 for broker charges. Needless to say that fee was added to the repair cost.
@@12voltvids . I know, it makes no sense at those prices, you'd think that you were buying the ship & other vehicles to transport it. It's just ridiculous.
Nice video as always reminds me of all the samsungs i repaired, i use to place all the sets face down on a flat surface a bit smaller then the screen with soft towel on top of that that stood on top of table so then i could release the outer bezel drop it down on the table below then i hooked up 4 strings mouted in the vesa mounts and then i carefully released the inner plastic frame. lifting the metal part up and sliding in a thin piece of plastic between then at last i could lift the entire assy up (but before you do carefully release the tape holding the plastic filters) then when i was down then you could just put it all back in reverse order :)
Well 2 don't like it so far. Must be repair people pissed that I am giving away their secrets how they rip people off.
@@12voltvids Fxxk the haters . I can watch these all day although I felt slightly uncomfortable when you put the screen on the wooden tabletop.
+12voltvids You will find that in every trade, some electricians are like that too, they don't want to help other people because they feel you must have gone through the getting qualified hoops that they once went through.
@calee4nyaboy
I don't even look, but I get a chuckle because thumbs down come within 5 minutes if listing so they haven't even watched it.
@@chris25801
The screen already was scratched so I wasn't hurting it. This was a throw away set I was bringing back from the dead .
very well done. as you said. saved from the dump.
Next time; Thread some bolts into the stamped metal rear of the set as stand-offs.
After watching you slam the entire set down on its circuit boards a few times I must share that tip.
Further, the mounting points where designed to hold the weight of the set, even allowing you to suspend it in the air or hold it as you work.
The boards were hanging over the front edge of the table, and not resting on the board itself, plus this is a very light set.
Where I live, no one will give you service unless you are ready with big bucks. I wish I lived in a community that had honest, fair and skilled peeps still.
If I was making a living doing this i would be charging big bucks too. I don't do this for a living. I produce TH-cam videos for a living as my second job. I make much more from the advertising than repairs so i do repairs very reasonable so that people will actually fix the item, and thus provide me with something to make a video on, which over time will make me much more in the long run than fixing a single device. So everyone wins. I work a 4 day work week at my day job and that gives me 3 days a week to make videos.
Have exactly the same problem !!! Almost the same model, UN46F6300 (not 6350) great to find this video ! About 10 years old ! Laughed at 'buggered and bloody', you must be a Canadian or of British stock. How much would you charge for that fix if you didn't know the client ? at the moment in Houston I think I am junking it !
Is that receiver behind the LED backlight panel a RCA RT -2600 ? I have one that needs to be repaired ! It works fine until it heats up and after a loud pop the protection circuit kicks in and shuts down the receiver. I'm guessing to much current is what tripping the protection , so could be that a component is changing value when it heats or a cap gets leaky . Can you repair this unit? Let me know please! :)
I would have moved the bad strip to the bottom of the screen good job
calee4nyaboy I agree but it would only be a minute of extra work they clip off
@calee4nyaboy In case you didn't notice I did move one of the 3 bad strips to the bottom. Remember there was 3 that went out.
@calee4nyaboy
There were 3 strips that popped the protection but true only 1 LED that went out.
Where it is you do not see it in the picture. Along the top or bottom you actually do see it more than off center.
I have one that has 2 bad LEDs on the bottom row and they stick out like a sore thumb.
Watched, liked, and subscribed. Thank you.
do not forget the donations please. :P (I am teasing you)
Hi , Thank you for sharing this video , I guess you can solder a regular high brightness white LED replacing the damaged one so that you get rid of the tiny dark spot on the final result .
No then you will have a bright spot and it will probably burn up quick. You can not see the dark spot unless you know where to look. I have a TV that has 3 dead led and unless I showed you where they are you wouldn't see them with an image. Perhaps a white screen but not an image.
Sounds great , thank you for your feedback
Well done, that has to be the cheapest backlight repair possible :-D
I hope your frend is not pulling a fast one on you, "Just a spare / workshop / shed " is something i have had too, for sale is often the result.
I'm not being negative towards your frend, i'ts just the way people are, dishonest.
I'll get something out of it. I could have just said it is not fixable and he would have said toss it out.
sure this has been said but would have been nice to see what you were actually clipping off for those of us that have no clue.. i am sure this is what is wrong with my Samsung as well..
Innate Gaming - yes I ended up breaking two. All others videos do the same thing. It’s a simple process yet it was hard to get them off. Now I need to find where to get some so when I put back. Plus my speakers were hard to take off. Ugh.
Great video and thumbs up. I have this SHARP and when I power it on, I see half the panel light up then go off. I have taken it apart and tested ALL the LED strips and they check out. I have stb voltage as well as 12 vts. I am puzzled with this problem. Might it be the PS causing this, or is the problem coming from the main board, and how would I separate the two boards when I need them connected to fire up the lights? Appreciate the assistance.
a friend of mine gave me his 6 year old 42 Inch LCD LG set which has dark and light spots which make the screen dark in places, the spots show up pretty well on a bright or a white picture, looking on this video of yours has given me the idea that some of the LEDS have failed. The UK retailer he bought it from (Currys PC World) said it was screen burn,
LCDs do fail and cause blotchy screen artifacts.
A jumper wire is a poor way to repair these, you end up increasing the voltage going to other led's and they will eventually fail. Also if you are NOT reducing the current the power supply is supplying, you are just going to have led after led fail. These newer sets are typically over driven by around 30%. Also the individual led's are available for purchase cheaply, it's better this was vs a jumper. Also checking the other led's is a good idea as some could be failing. Otherwise good job saving another one from the dump.
Superb sir spot on.helped me loads.
When they go bad, probaby others will fail soon too, if backight is set over 50% brightness. Also leds can be replaced individual BUT you should know the right specs for these very high powered tv led backlights (different than the ones uses on the cheap light strips!!) LG and samsung use different models and trying to repair individual or all leds on a strip has no yet given me any good result. Also soldering doesnt allow a lot of heat too long, so replacing is very difficult. Getting of is easy but soldering ON is difficult and sometimes impossible when the contacts are under down the individual led. Ordering complete from spaire tv or new ones on ALIXPRESS or Ebay is better , but order the correct models only! If you know what kind of type leds are used on Samsung you can also order them indidually cheap on Ebay or ALIXPRESS. Also using soft or rubber gloves should be used for placing back the panel if not you get stainy panels with grease handprints or dirt hairs and so between panel and backsheets. Better to use a soft tissue beneath or cloth (beware off static electric so ground yourself too). When first try these repair , you will probably break the lcd panel or COF bandchips when not careful enough SO BEWARE DOING THIS YOURSELF. ALso sometimes LCD panel is glued with tape in the baclight frame so you will tear is apart when not using a heatgun or other tool to get these big panels loose (on D series i found these taped panels!). But too much heat will ruin darken the backlight sheets so doing this for first is not easy! Also new samsung tv s are constructed so that you will tear apart the tv's panel , of not using any screws anymore. BEWARE of these new models wihtout any screws in the backs wheb buying a new tv!!
Is it not possible to move the strip with the bad LED to the top or bottom row so its even less noticeable?
Coronadraht Even so, the dark spot at the bottom would be less intrusive when viewing content, especially letterboxed stuff where the dark spot would not be visible at all.
@@nyprince5922
Actually the opposite. Top and bottom more noticeable. I can show you video of TV I have with 3 bad LEDs One near top one on bottom row and one in middle.
Unless I point out the one in the middle you won`t notice it. Mybuddy picked this one up last night and he couldn`t spot the one that popped until I put up a white screen and pointed it out. If you look severly off angle you can see a slight variation, but straight on you can`t.
How did you get the leds to light up during your testing? Did you just plug in the power cord and turn on the tv on?
I was wondering the same
That's what I did. After I got the panel and diffusers off I set the unit back into the back trim panel and reconnected the lead to the power switch. Obviously you want to make sure the control boards won't be touching anything that could short them out.
A little advice would be appreciated here. I've encountered a similar issue where 4 out of 8 of the LED strips aren't lighting up when I have the power on. However, when I have the power off and provide power directly to the strips themselves, the 4 strips not working under normal conditions all light up independently and all LEDs look to be operating. Any advice on what I should look at next?
Thanks to videos like yours and others I never have to buy a new TV for the latest high tech video display. Somebody else pays high dollar for the bleeding edge technology. Two or three years later when they start breaking I pick them up for free and repair them something I could not do a few years ago. 👍👍👍 thank you.
Thats how I ended up with a dozen or so plasma sets. Sure a couple are only good for games as they have a line or 2 in the picture but the rest work like new awaiting their day when I can put them in service.
Very good repair..Enjoyed it!
good tutorial service sir...
good job
Have you ever encountered a samsung tv where the backlight can light up, but it can't stay lit up? It comes on and blacks out 3 times and then gives up trying. If you power cycle it, it'll try again 3 times. This seems like a programmed failsafe. I've been able to confirm that the interface is still active while the screen is blacked out (flashlight around the border reflects and shows the menu and video. What I'm trying to do now is figure out where the point of failure is in keeping the backlight active.
Yes I have. I did a video on one doing that a few years ago. Don't ask me for the link I don't have it and it would take me just as long to find it. The trouble was done diodes on one of the srips if I remember
what did you do to the zener diode, cannot see what you were doing because your body blocked the camera. By the way , what does the zener diodes function in the ledstrips?
The zener is there so that is one diode in 1 half of the strip fails the rest still work. It provides a bypass for the dead circuit but they can short and kill half the strip. I just removed it. Extra parts.
I may undertake this with a 75 inch samsung (what do I have to lose right? Either it goes in the trash or I save it). But, where does one shop for model specific leds? (Samsung UN75J630D)
I dont find these flat LCD screens nearly as interesting as the old CRT stuff myself. Delicate finicky things they are. I'm old school i suppose... Good job though...
Yes they are hiring. I like crt and plasma myself.
Watched a doc about how companies make their products with built in obsolescence, making them virtually unrepairable forcing you to buy a new product. This covers everything from washers, to TVs dishwasher etc. Some governments are now pushing companies to make things repairable as landfills are filling up with too much waste.
A doc on TH-cam? That would be someone's opinion. Companies don't design things to fail. They build things for a price using cheaper parts. Why? Because the buyers keep demanding cheaper and cheaper products. The Walmart's of the world demand a sell price and they only way to get there is to build cheaper and cheaper products.
I have a samsung curve TV had a partial darck screen as well but across the middle of the screen horrisontaly. did it had same problem broken LED strip light as well? please share how to fix it. thanks
How much would you charge to rradio it antique Radio from the 20s
Most of these units can be completely recapped and set up for under 100
How much would it cost me to ship it to you and have a fixed all that stuff
@@thedancingqueenrandom152
Shipping charges depend on the size and weight. An old vintage radio would be very expensive to ship. Shipping would be far more expensive than the actual repair.
I noticed you mentioned this was a dimming tv. I have a Samsung UN46FH6030FXZA. The set turns on nice and bright but then dims after 2 seconds and is about 50% brightness. I replaced Main board, power supply and icon board, same dimming issue. Any suggestions on a fix? Scrap the TV?
The main board controls the led brightness via the power supply board by changing the pwm duty cycle of the dimming control line. The power supply changes the voltage. Now if both the main board and power supply are known to be good then the only thing left is a bad backlight.
@@12voltvids If we've already replaced the powerboard and mainboard with known good parts, what would it be about the LEDs that would cause them to come on like normal, then go black, and repeat that on/off once per second for 3 attempts before giving up?
@@user-ow6jk5ix5q shorts on the led strips. Some had diodes on them as well that would short out. I had one that half a strip went out on. There is a video i did on it.
What did you use to power the lights with it disassembled?
he must have know the voltage. used what ever he had available. i thought the same..
True Master Dave fixes it all :)
Nice video as always
Can anyone tell me the part number for the smd LED's used in these? They seem to be 3030's but 3 or 6v..1W? Samsung UN50M530DAF thanks. Wont restrip for 1 bad LED.
Only a question, considering LED are diodes, wouldn't be interesting to replace with with a diode to help reducing the overall current on the other LEDs? I know in this case you are not allowed to spend, but in electronic terms, wouldn't that be better?
Constant current power supply. Remember that 27 went out when the zeners popped. The remainders did not go nova. The reason the power supply limits the current. So I could put 1 or 60LEDs on the power rail and it would not blow it, because the voltage drop is constant across a diode, and the power supply (Ballast) is regulating the current.
So many are thinking in the analog power supply world. Yes if you had a igh current DC supply, and you were putting your LEDs in series. Lets say 10 LEDS, and you had a 30 volt supply. 3 volts per LED no current limit. Now you take one out and force 3.3 volts through each of the others they are going to overheat.
But on a current limited supply the current say limited to 10mA the voltage would drop from 30v to 27v on the power supply.
Magic. Fascinating, as usual.
thank you for a great video, but you did not show how you get the led to come on after you have disconnected the power from the tv, the back cover has the remote control sensor and its disconnected from the control board inside during disassembly
obviously I remove the power switching sensor from the back cover and reconnected it to the set so that I could turn it on while the set was apart.
thx so much for the instruction, i temporarily hooked the sensor back on and plug the poeer back in, all the good strips lite up and the bad one identified.
Great vid. My LG tv recently ended up having almost the right side of the panel a bit dim compared to the left side. This happened after a power surge during a lightning storm. Any thoughts on what was damaged inside the tv?
3 words and the 3rd is diodes.
@@12voltvids probably the LEDs? Maybe just like the repair you did in the video. Thanks
good job and great communications
Good repair.
Pl.let me know What would it cost for replacing damaged diodes.?(for each)..
I have no idea.
I always stress to my tv repair customers to buy the extended warranty when buying a flat screen tv. They are all prone to failure and designed to blow out several circuit boards when a component shorts out and the quality control sucks on all new electronics. They are designed with surface mount chips that can’t be serviced on the circuit board
"I don't want to spend anything, but get it working" If that's literally what he said, the TV would be at the bottom of my pile, maybe forever, friend or not.
It's a good friend that I have known since I was about 13. Went through high school from grade 8 with him, and worked with him for 20 years at the TV shop we both worked at. He runs his own pre-wire company and I get to work in homes he has wired when I am doing my fiber / internet / tv install. He makes my life very easy for me, because when I show up at a house he has prepped, I can walk in, put 3 connectors on fiber he has already run, plug in the ont, plug in ethernet he has already run and terminated and plug in STB and wifi extenders. Literally a job that would normally take about 4 hours I am done in about 45 minutes.
He may not be paying me much to fix these sets, but I am making money from the youtube video, and over the years will make far, far more than I could ever charge.
Not even for a faver to make someones day ?
I got another surprise for you. Go into the service menu and change it to a 3d tv. Some of them have that option available as well as Bluetooth to set up wireless keyboard or pointer remotes.
This set actually has the 3D option on the menu.
Thank you very much Dave for teaching me that one. I thought they were only normal diodes. Let me ask a silly question now, as if you never get any. LOL!!!! Can these be made to operate say like Christmas string lights? You know, where if one goes out it doesn't effect the others?
The reason they are wired in series is for efficiency. Had they been in parallel you would need a 3 volt supply with current capabilities high enough to power however many diodes are in in the panel. This one has 120 diodes. Saw each one is 1 watt you would need a 3 volt 120 watt power supply. 300 ma x 120 so that is what about 36 amps of current. That's going to need a beefy power supply and heavy wires to deliver all that current. In series the power supply will make about 360 volts at 300ma. A very small efficient transformer and small wires increase the efficiency. I just noticed that my "new" 4k test set has developed a popped led and I have never run that TV over 70%. Also it is only a test set. It is mounted to the wall on my office and it only turned on to view 4k content so it has very low hours on it. It gets used perhaps 2 hours a month if that as I don't watch TV in my office. I edit and use a plasma for that and have the 4k just to check my 4k content before I post it.
@@12voltvids , OK now that makes sense. Seems weird that playing out that soon on your shop TV. Maybe run it at 50% like mine. But I do run mine a lot more. Hmmmm.???
i would replace that one LED. i have a bunch of white SMD LEDs for led tv backlight (one warm color temp, one cold color temp)
Too much work. Don't have any new ones. My old TV has been running with 2 popped LEDs for 2 years and is still going so it is not a reliability issue. Update panel firmware and the the backlight down to 70% or less will go a long way to increasing the life of the LEDs.
What is part number of these leds and amps/ voltage? I'd buy a strip of 100 of i knew the correct part number. Tried a random one unsoldered from another display and it was very dim. Soldering is not that hard with a hot air or heating the back on a hot plate
16:25 When you say an LED is "open", what do you mean by open?
An led is a diode. When a diode fails it goes into 1 of states. It can go short or open. When a light bulb burns out, it goes open circuit.
@@12voltvids Thanks, I searched for it online and realized it meant what it sounded like. derp
I have a UN46F6300 (similar to this video) that had a screen with dimmed LEDs for 2-3 years, then one day the entire screen went out and stopped turning on. No picture, no audio, but standby light would flash (like in your other video watch?v=fXMkncvcsZI). Flashlight to screen didn’t show anything.
I removed the Main Board ribbon and the LEDs didn't turn on as expected. We didn’t know what else to test cause the Power Supply’s schematics aren’t public and the board’s legend is a bit complicated and really tiny. Nothing was bulging but the board was slightly burnt dark.
We then opened the panel up and tested the LEDs individually with meters and found all LEDs would light up except 2 in different places. When the TV did work before it failed, the entire bottom of the screen was dark for years. I don't know if 2 individual open LEDs would cause the entire bottom half to darken, then eventually the entire screen, but we plan to jerry-rig-jump the 2 dead ones like you demonstrated. And replace the Power Supply board. Some questions, if you've got time:
A) 13:02 Here, you just plug the TV in to test all LED strips. But if your panel isn’t working (like mine), how would you test the entire screen like you did here? Since my TV isn’t just dimmed but dead entirely, where would you direct the voltage meter and at how much voltage? Do I multiply the amount of LEDs by 3 and just guess- then stick it on the diode on the vertical left strip?
B) 15:00-16:30 and 19:26 Here, you posit the Zener diode at the vertical leftside strip’s end may be the problem. You then snap something off and it fixed 1 strip. What did you pop out exactly? The video didn’t show. You also popped another off but it didn't fix the 2nd. What the heck was it? I ask because the vertical/leftside strip isn't easily accessible online to purchase so I want to know if I should even try messing with it.
@@shadow.banned
It was a zener diode that shorted. Extra parts. It was there so that if a single led went open it would conduct and bypass that strip and keep the set running with a dead strip. Unfortunately it couldn't handle the current and failed killing the entire backlight.
I remember that Lee Kun-Hee, former CEO of Samsung, following the "Declaration of Frankfurt" in 1993, decided to destroy all the junk smartphones they had been producing so far in order to provide a better quality in their next generation smartphones. Maybe in 2020, they should do the same with their TV's, which are basically disposable garbage.
One advise to the people that have "multiple million dollar homes": please spend 1,000 extra for a decent TV. I guess you can :D
The story went more like this. The phones were all defective. They had a design flaw. He took all the phones they had in the facility put them in a pile, summoned the workers and destroyed them all stating that they would not sell a substandard product. I have several Samsung tvs and mine are working great. Even my plasma with a cracked screen still works.
@@12voltvids Still, I notice Samwha capacitors on the power supply board.
To me that's a red flag right off the bat. As I open up every electronic device I buy (we're electronics enthousiast after all ^^), I dispose of every item, whether it's a TV or a lab power supply, that contains crap components.
Samwha is a South Korean brand, in general chinese brands are even worse.
I once tossed out a Sony DA3200 amplifier, right after it came brand new out of the box, because I found a couple of Samwha caps. It's a pity because all the other caps were decent Japanese ones.
I also replaced the power supply of my Rohde&Swartz RTB2002 oscilloscope before powering it up for the first time.
Not sure what's gotten into them, R&S use Epcos mains filters, Nichicon caps and even Isabellenhütte power resistors, yet they chose to integrate a junk power supply into their otherwise brilliant oscilloscope.
equivalent
Every time I hold the LCD screen like that it breaks
Haven't broken one yet.
@@12voltvids wait until u get a 65in to do i turn down the job
@@leonjohnsonjr3331 when they get that big you need some glazers suction cups and a brace bar. The screen needs multi point support or it is going to break. I would probably turn that down too. I really don't want to get into repairing TV's again. I left that business in 2003 and now only do work for certain clients that I built a relationship with over the years.
Such a shame that people throw away perfectly good television sets simply because something fixable isn't working. Rich people...
Lots of them where I live.
Great video !
its funny watching somone do what i do every day,sorry but that 1 failed led would of anoyed me and i would of had to fix it.typicly a 9 led rail will take 24 dc volts but if 1 led is shorted it spreads the 24 dc volts to the remaining 8 leds making them brighter and more prone to fail.i salvage the led strips from broken screen tvs but rather than changing the whole srtip i replace the faulty leds,on ocation iv found burnt out pads underneath them and had to do jumper wires ,but found an easyer way of piggy backing a good led and lense onto the strip and soldering onto the rail.after every repair i do i change the backlight settings to match the size of the screen 42" 42% and never had 1 come back.
Actually there are 60 LEDS in series, so the voltage increase across each LED will go up .05 volts per LED. This is NOT going to affect the life span whatsoever, especially since I educate the user to turn down the backlights to 75% max, so they are not going to be over driven. Also, the power supply is a constant current supply. The same board is used on both the 40 and 46" version. The 40 has far fewer LEDs than the 46, and yet hmm they manage to work just fine. How, because the power supply is a constant current. Voltage doesn't kill LEDs current does. There will be a constant voltage drop across the junction no matter what. So the LED will not see 3.05 volts, it will still drop only 3.0 volts, because that is how an LED works. When the zeners shorted bypassing 27 of the LEDs why did the remainders that still had power (remember these are in series) not go super nova and burn out?
Simple, constant current power supply. One for the top half and one for the bottom.
Of course if you actually understand how these sets worked you would never have posted this comment. I have fixed several LED sets (not every one gets a video posted, the next one of this model won't because it has been done before) and never had one return, plus I have one myself I jumped an LED on 3 years ago and it is still going strong.
@@12voltvids1st im not having a pop at ya fella,just 1 dead led does my head in lol.iv seen these led rails in loads fof samsungs but ever come across the zeners shorted out normaly burnt out led in series causing the rest of the rail to fail.i aggree with you,no money in so no sence replacing the rail and fix is a fix,ps i am familer with scamsungs lol,keep up the awsume vids and hope i aint upset you sorry if have :o)
@@oblioi
Just got another one. 2 LEDs popped on the top half but they are black and passing current as the rest are working. Bottom half out so one has gone open.
Probably won't film this one though as I have already done this model.
@@12voltvidsblack spot of death i call them,still dont you find it weird why some dead short when others go open circuit.
@@oblioi
All I know is these led sets are anything but reliable. I am hanging on to my Sony LCD and all my plasma sets. My daughter has the Sony xbr I put the Gama chip in. It looks great and has outlasted the set that replaced it, because the person that gave it to me brought me their LG set with popped LEDs.
Oh well I'll just give it to my daughter and buy another one
Put together just like a laptop computer
i need help with my tv can you help me
If you go to the Community group in the samsung website you will see that this is a common problem with these tv's. Looks like 55" are especially affected. less than 3 years and you have to pay $300 to fix it? If they have the parts? and you are getting the same sh-t parts that failed the first time. Never buy Samsung again.
playlist55 - have 60 JS 7000 this happened to mine two years in. Samsung is bad and good luck trying to find parts. I can’t find strips that seem legit.
Buy a used crt tv at a thrift store. It will last for decades compared to this new flatscreen crap and some parts are still available for crt sets if they break.
But they are only standard definition, and nobody wants that now.
I appreciate your videos see paypal
greetings
A
It lights up and just hums
You know why it hums?
Because it doesn't know the words!
Seriously though it will need all the paper capacitors and electrolytic caps replaces, and likely that is all. Don't run it untill they have been replaces as they go electrically leaky and this can incenerate tubes, coils, transformers ect due to tubes going into full conduction. I have several old radios of my own, a very old Rogers and Strongberg Carlson, and an old GE, Marconi and Pye radio from just after the war. An old Halicrafters and a late 50's Rogers and an early 60's Electrohome and Nordmande stereo. I still need to restore the Halicrafters and Nordmande radio but the others have been fully recapped.
I fix tv's but changing LED and taking the screen off is a hard job so I pass on led repairing
It isn't that bad on these ones but some sets it is a pain for sure. Like the curved sets.
If you pass on LED replacement you must have to pass on 75% of the broken TV's that come your way. That seems to be the most common issues from TV's manufacted in the last 10 year's. It's really not that bad to do. Typically only takes 15 minutes to get down to them.
@@jeffescortlx yes u rite
But i pass
But i pass
Which normal person has all these tools at home
?? Why do you work for free? He a relative?
А ток в блоке питания кто будет уменьшать
Power supply is a limited current source. It doesn't care if there are 100 led in series or 80. The current remains the same. That's how they work.
@@12voltvids на заводе ток делают большим и диоды греются в России мастера всегда уменьшают ток на 30 % и диоды меньше греются сколько стоит такой ремонт в США ?
I can run real fast in my tennis shoes.
Sir I need help my samsung led 4 k uhd display repair can services ? Number sent me sir
Mike, that is the oldest BS ; Idont want to spend a lot of money; your reply is “ 2 things in equal amounts will fix this: your money and my time “ your labor on this was $75 at least. Quit giving away your skis. Charge the guy!,
I don't know about where you live, but here people are wealthy, and will not hesitate to replace something. It comes in and they say I will spend 50 or 75 or 100 on this and not a penny more.
So these is a choice. Fix it for under their limit, or don't fix it at all.
There is a reason I got out of this line of work in 2003. I did this for a living from 1984 through to 2003, and in that last 6 months there was no money in the business. There were days I would sit around the shop for 9 hours and make perhaps 50.00 take home pay. There were no easy money VCRs to fix, DVD players were dirt cheap, HDTV was brand new and people were chucking their CRT televisions many times before they broke down. Things may be different in economies where people are tight for money, but in my neighborhood people have money, lots of it, and they will spend it on the newest toys, and not on repairing their old equipment. I'm no different though. When my old car started to act up, rather than spending more money on it, I drove it to the dealer and drive home in a new one.
Are you married, do you have a family.