Very nice video! This was helpful. I have huge hands so I decided to remove this fuse box after disconnecting battery. When done, you have plenty of room to operate and took about 2 minutes to mount new bulb. It was almost easier than the other "easy" side 😉
Thanks for guys like you on the internet, saving us quite a few bucks, much appreciated, I am gonna order my bulb as mine is turning pink and will follow your video to do it. Have a nice day
TBH it's so fast and easy to use a T20 Torx and T27 Torx bits on a nut driver or drill to remove the 4 bolts on the grill, the 4 bolts on the headlamp housing and 2 or 3 screws in the inner fender holding the bumper and one screw on the top of the front of the bumper as opposed to fidangling and potentially breaking the bulb you just bought. I just let the bumper hang an inch or two below the headlamp and then it pulls straight out. If you find yourself constantly replacing bulbs, it's probably the ballast which is attached underside of the headlamp or the wiring harness from the ballast to the HID (the problem i'm having now). Maybe the first time you attempt it might take you a few minutes getting familiar with how much you have to pull on the grill (literally just pull straight out) or undoing the bumper from the fender (tug it outwards toward you) but afterwards you can do this all in about a minute once your familiar. You do not have to remove the entire bumper especially if you're just doing one bulb. Anyone know how to replace the wiring harness from the HID Ballast to the HID Bulb? Seems the wire is tucked inside the housing requiring disassembly of the housing itself
Thanks for the tips. I did use parts of your from-the-top method but also turned my wheels to the right and unscrewed the 2 screws from the fender well and 1 screw for the bumper in order to get access from the bottom (although tight). Followed your steps but used the wheel well access to extract and re-insert the bulb which prevents having to detach and reattach the adapter ring in such a tight spot and possibly breaking your bulb. Disconnected and reconnected the wire harness from the top - the bulb will rest on the lip as you transfer back to the top / bottom. What got me cussing was getting those flexible dust covers back on without getting collapsed. In hindsight, I probably shoulda tried to turn them inside-out and the slap them on like a cond0m. 😋
This video actually saved me money! Also, I highly recommend anyone using this method to disconnect the car battery (negative terminal) before doing anything! Always disconnect the battery before opening the fuse box cover!!! When I tried to push the bulb out of the gap there was a short time when it hit the wire in front of the fuse box and created a noticeable spark! (Fortunately the short circuit was brief and didn't seem to cause anything other than that spark)
@@TheParkingLotMechanic yes, especially when there are a few main positive connectors in the front of the fuse box, and the bulb contains a sizeable grounded metal base, creating a short circuit is way too easy.
In the UK THE headlight has to come out if your hands are larger than a10 year old. this also means dropping the bumper/ fender for people across the pond. and there's no access through the inner wheel arch cover because in the UK our inner wing is made of steel.
Make sure you disconnect the battery! I touched a hot wire on the fuse box and it shorted out the headlamp module. It cost me $400 dollars and some change, expensive mistake!
Isn't it easier to just take off the left front wheel and fender liner even if it involves more work than fiddling around the fuse box and squeezing the bulb in that tight space?
The point of this video was to not do that. Plus you say it's easier to do more work? That is the proper way but when there's a work around that takes less than 10 minutes without removing the wheel and the fender liner, I'll take that way.
I didn't do the high beam replacement yet but since I have an Integrated Engineering air intake, I really don't think I would need to but with the stock intake, for sure. It's an easy removal though.
The only thing you pull until it comes off is the dust cover to get to the bulb. The bulb comes out with a counter clockwise twist and then wiggle it out from there.
Very nice video! This was helpful. I have huge hands so I decided to remove this fuse box after disconnecting battery. When done, you have plenty of room to operate and took about 2 minutes to mount new bulb. It was almost easier than the other "easy" side 😉
Thanks for guys like you on the internet, saving us quite a few bucks, much appreciated, I am gonna order my bulb as mine is turning pink and will follow your video to do it. Have a nice day
Happy to help!
TBH it's so fast and easy to use a T20 Torx and T27 Torx bits on a nut driver or drill to remove the 4 bolts on the grill, the 4 bolts on the headlamp housing and 2 or 3 screws in the inner fender holding the bumper and one screw on the top of the front of the bumper as opposed to fidangling and potentially breaking the bulb you just bought. I just let the bumper hang an inch or two below the headlamp and then it pulls straight out. If you find yourself constantly replacing bulbs, it's probably the ballast which is attached underside of the headlamp or the wiring harness from the ballast to the HID (the problem i'm having now).
Maybe the first time you attempt it might take you a few minutes getting familiar with how much you have to pull on the grill (literally just pull straight out) or undoing the bumper from the fender (tug it outwards toward you) but afterwards you can do this all in about a minute once your familiar. You do not have to remove the entire bumper especially if you're just doing one bulb.
Anyone know how to replace the wiring harness from the HID Ballast to the HID Bulb? Seems the wire is tucked inside the housing requiring disassembly of the housing itself
Thanks for the tips. I did use parts of your from-the-top method but also turned my wheels to the right and unscrewed the 2 screws from the fender well and 1 screw for the bumper in order to get access from the bottom (although tight). Followed your steps but used the wheel well access to extract and re-insert the bulb which prevents having to detach and reattach the adapter ring in such a tight spot and possibly breaking your bulb. Disconnected and reconnected the wire harness from the top - the bulb will rest on the lip as you transfer back to the top / bottom. What got me cussing was getting those flexible dust covers back on without getting collapsed. In hindsight, I probably shoulda tried to turn them inside-out and the slap them on like a cond0m. 😋
This video actually saved me money! Also, I highly recommend anyone using this method to disconnect the car battery (negative terminal) before doing anything! Always disconnect the battery before opening the fuse box cover!!! When I tried to push the bulb out of the gap there was a short time when it hit the wire in front of the fuse box and created a noticeable spark! (Fortunately the short circuit was brief and didn't seem to cause anything other than that spark)
Happy to help! And it's never a bad idea to disconnect the battery when working with the electrics on a car.
@@TheParkingLotMechanic yes, especially when there are a few main positive connectors in the front of the fuse box, and the bulb contains a sizeable grounded metal base, creating a short circuit is way too easy.
In the UK THE headlight has to come out if your hands are larger than a10 year old. this also means dropping the bumper/ fender for people across the pond. and there's no access through the inner wheel arch cover because in the UK our inner wing is made of steel.
Make sure you disconnect the battery! I touched a hot wire on the fuse box and it shorted out the headlamp module. It cost me $400 dollars and some change, expensive mistake!
Been struggling for over an hour just to put the damn thing back it. Why is it so hard????
wow Wow, you succeeded!
I also changed the driver's side bulb in 39 minutes.
I think I twisted it this way. lollllllllllll helpful!
good job men!
Isn't it easier to just take off the left front wheel and fender liner even if it involves more work than fiddling around the fuse box and squeezing the bulb in that tight space?
The point of this video was to not do that. Plus you say it's easier to do more work? That is the proper way but when there's a work around that takes less than 10 minutes without removing the wheel and the fender liner, I'll take that way.
Also a question I have the MK6R but it’s the same directions right ?
Yes! It's the same assembly!
@@TheParkingLotMechanic thank you for the reply. I just ordered it !
What if the little led lights have to be replaced? This little led dots i mean.
My guess is.... you're screwed and probs gotta get a whole new assembly!
Did you have to remove the air intake for the high beam!?
I didn't do the high beam replacement yet but since I have an Integrated Engineering air intake, I really don't think I would need to but with the stock intake, for sure. It's an easy removal though.
Thanks so much man!
You’re welcome!
@@TheParkingLotMechanic are those same headlights still working?
@@westonwright2670 Yes they are! I doubt they'll last as long as name brand bulbs but they're doing fine for now!
always wear glvoes when changing bulbs, the oil from your finger will burn.. no bueno
I'll wear gloves next time!
You didn't say what kind of bulb?
Do you literally just pull at that part until it gives?
The only thing you pull until it comes off is the dust cover to get to the bulb. The bulb comes out with a counter clockwise twist and then wiggle it out from there.
@@TheParkingLotMechanic ok thanks mate
where did you buy the bulb?
Just Amazon D1S bulbs. They're doing well still so that's good!
@@TheParkingLotMechanic alright, thanks!
Be careful when putting the bulb back in broke mine 😢
Dang, that stinks :( definitely be careful! I know sometimes I'm not!
Thanks mate, goes to show my aiming not what it use to be 🤣
Truth be told, I'm surprised I didn't break either of mine!