I've been playing this game for 5 years now chasing all the mods that make life "so much better driving a cherokee". Done em all, seriously lol and out of ALL of them my top 3 that actually made any significant difference are... 1. Headlight harness upgrade > Holley LED retrobright headlights. 2. Drop pitman arm (or matching track bar/drag link by whatever means.. I used a zj pitman at 4.75" lift) 3. Hood struts LOL. Get some hood struts you won't regret. Everything else has been like you said "does it make a big difference? Not really... am I glad I did it? Sure. haha
I hate how far you have to push the pedal to get any brake response. It makes it really hard to go from a more modern vehicle to the XJ. Thanks for the video!
Awesome video, thanks for keeping it real, so many others are acting like they know more than they actually do. Under normal stopping conditions you would notice much improvement but panic stops should feel better. I had 35’s on my XJ and panic stops on the interstate were pretty iffy. I put 03 WJ axles under mine (4 wheel disc w/front dual piston and no wheel adapters needed). Master cylinder next, keep up the good work
Not knocking you whatsoever but the 98 indeed is a dual diaphragm master and booster, Xjs switched from singles to duals in 95. But the Durango is definitely an upgrade it has a larger cylinder bore on the master!
Yes I know 🤦♂️. My booster was going bad anyway. At the time the parts store had me super confused on the booster. I never should have told them I was putting Durango parts on it. We played 20 questions for an hour before I finally got it and i just never corrected myself after the video.
Usually do the homework and just give them part numbers when I’m mixing parts. My other toy is a 66 bronco with a 351w from a 84 car, 1 ton axles from two different trucks. I don’t even play the vehicle in the cpu game.
Thank you for posting this, my breaks still are crap even after pad and boot swap so to finish l I need a new booster and master!! I will follow your plan for better breaks!
I have a 90. When I bought it, it had 31s on it and it wouldn't lock the tires up on dry pavement. The brakes were scary how weak they were (compared to modern vehicles). I swapped in a WJ booster and master cylinder, took a little modification to do it. The brakes are now very good with 33s. I built my XJ closer to 10 years ago, back then the WJ booster was all the rage on the forums. Never heard of using a Durango master. Then again, my 90 is a different animal than the later years.
It's not the most intuitive thing, but the brake light sensors are adjustable. Sounds like what you did worked fine though. Also, anytime you're messing with pedals, I learned the hard way it's a good idea to unplug the brake light sensor. Burned out both brake lights and the BL sensor.
My power steering pump hated my 37s, I upgraded to the 2001 WJ pump & added a cooler. Did you do a video on your snorkel installation? I don't plan to ford any high water, bu would rather pull air from outside the engine compartment. Thanks!
Honestly I'd never heard of bench bleeding till after doing this. So I guess I just got super lucky. I did spend a lot of time flushing out and bleeding all the old fluid so I guess that did it.
@@nextweeksadventure Thank you. I honestly can’t understand the difference between just mounting the master and pumping the brake to get the air bubbles out; then how is it different than normal bleeding process?
Part numbers are listed in description. OReilly Prices are roughly $130 Master cylinder $130 brake booster $25 for reservoir on Amazon. If you really want to upgrade check out my rear disk swap video. It's a whole new animal now.
I'm going to say if you did the wj and rear zj brakes with a wj booster and master will make it better all around. I'm just concerned if anyone is running 15"alloys if you'll have the clearance. But if you just up it to 15 steel or 16 alloy you'll have the room. I know with good power stop brakes on my wj, I can literally lock up all 4 wheels going 40mph and it's not much pedal pressure compared to my old xj running 31" swampers.
I’m on 35x12.5r15 with Method 304 15x8 3.5bs wheels. WJ brakes with power stops in the front and new drums in the rear and adjusted. I can lock my brakes up in the rain but not when it’s dry with only a durango master cylinder. Also for 15” wheels i had 15” steelies for a while and had 1/8 of clearance without grinding the caliper. I ground the caliper down about 1/2 on all the ribs of the akebono calipers and i have about 1/8-3/8 clearance all the way around the calipers and wheels. So you can 100% fit alloy wheels.
I pulled all the fuses from under hood. No lights no issues. System never worked and when I did the rear axle swap I knew I was done trying to figure it out.
@@jaydonshaffer2700 The master cylinder and reservoir is for a 1999 Durango. All parts used are from Oriley's auto and part numbers are listed in the video description.
I had no idea that some 98s still had single diaphragm. My 93 had single, but I was able to direct swap a double diaphragm from 95-96 models with no mod (got new part but grabbed spacer from JY 95 model). The double diaphragm definitely makes a difference. As long as you kept factory front disc rear drum, the prop valve can stay same. I changed to jeep Liberty rear disc (also drop in fit), so had to change to zj prop valve.
This internet upgrade had a lot of missing and questionable info I had to try and figure out. Oriellys parts list did show a single diaphragm and a dual for my 98 both measure close to the same size. Many chat forums had listed that duals came on newer models also. What I can say for sure is my booster was giving me trouble and needed to be replaced anyway. So just making sure if someone is going to swap it to make sure they get the dual. Testing internet theory has been difficult because I've found every different answer I could. Thanks for your response about your upgrade! I like to see everyone share the info to help others who are working on projects.
@@Alexmufasa-hz6vb the diaphragm attach point to brake pedal may need modification (grind part of connector loop flat)- yours has a flat edge on part of it to work with brake stop sensor. I think the rest would work, but suggest checking forums to be absolutely sure.
Great job! You can never have to good of brakes. "Many more projects to come" Jeep = JUST EMPTY EVERY POCKET. God bless, stay well.
I haven't seen an update video from ya in a while!
I've been playing this game for 5 years now chasing all the mods that make life "so much better driving a cherokee". Done em all, seriously lol and out of ALL of them my top 3 that actually made any significant difference are... 1. Headlight harness upgrade > Holley LED retrobright headlights. 2. Drop pitman arm (or matching track bar/drag link by whatever means.. I used a zj pitman at 4.75" lift) 3. Hood struts LOL. Get some hood struts you won't regret. Everything else has been like you said "does it make a big difference? Not really... am I glad I did it? Sure. haha
I hate how far you have to push the pedal to get any brake response. It makes it really hard to go from a more modern vehicle to the XJ. Thanks for the video!
Awesome video, thanks for keeping it real, so many others are acting like they know more than they actually do. Under normal stopping conditions you would notice much improvement but panic stops should feel better. I had 35’s on my XJ and panic stops on the interstate were pretty iffy. I put 03 WJ axles under mine (4 wheel disc w/front dual piston and no wheel adapters needed). Master cylinder next, keep up the good work
GREAT JOB"THANX 4 SHARING GOOD INFO!
Not knocking you whatsoever but the 98 indeed is a dual diaphragm master and booster, Xjs switched from singles to duals in 95. But the Durango is definitely an upgrade it has a larger cylinder bore on the master!
Yes I know 🤦♂️. My booster was going bad anyway. At the time the parts store had me super confused on the booster. I never should have told them I was putting Durango parts on it. We played 20 questions for an hour before I finally got it and i just never corrected myself after the video.
Usually do the homework and just give them part numbers when I’m mixing parts.
My other toy is a 66 bronco with a 351w from a 84 car, 1 ton axles from two different trucks. I don’t even play the vehicle in the cpu game.
6:41
You saved me 40 minutes of screwing around. Thanks.
I thought “to hell with this thing, it’s cracked anyway”
Thank you for posting this, my breaks still are crap even after pad and boot swap so to finish l I need a new booster and master!! I will follow your plan for better breaks!
I have a 90. When I bought it, it had 31s on it and it wouldn't lock the tires up on dry pavement. The brakes were scary how weak they were (compared to modern vehicles). I swapped in a WJ booster and master cylinder, took a little modification to do it. The brakes are now very good with 33s. I built my XJ closer to 10 years ago, back then the WJ booster was all the rage on the forums. Never heard of using a Durango master. Then again, my 90 is a different animal than the later years.
It's not the most intuitive thing, but the brake light sensors are adjustable. Sounds like what you did worked fine though.
Also, anytime you're messing with pedals, I learned the hard way it's a good idea to unplug the brake light sensor. Burned out both brake lights and the BL sensor.
did this a year ago. I am not sure how much of an upgrade it is, I had also did a Rear Disc Brake swap. So naturally it felt better.
Thanks, keep em coming!
That’s funny each time I do an “update” on my Cherokee I tell my wife keep your phone close by cuz you never know!!
My power steering pump hated my 37s, I upgraded to the 2001 WJ pump & added a cooler.
Did you do a video on your snorkel installation? I don't plan to ford any high water, bu would rather pull air from outside the engine compartment. Thanks!
Thats the pump I'm looking at too. Yes snorkel video is deep in the jeep playlist.
More importantly you are now ready for rear disk and wj knuckles
Great job! I like your videos, because you show the sh*t parts of the job also! Greetings from Germany!
Thank you very much!
That booster part number is for 97 -2001, Yours is a 98 I think it meant for 96 and under upgrade.
No “bench bleed” ?
I did it and was told it was vital. Guess it wasn’t then?
Honestly I'd never heard of bench bleeding till after doing this. So I guess I just got super lucky. I did spend a lot of time flushing out and bleeding all the old fluid so I guess that did it.
@@nextweeksadventure
Thank you.
I honestly can’t understand the difference between just mounting the master and pumping the brake to get the air bubbles out; then how is it different than normal bleeding process?
Thanks for the information 😊
Will this also work on an older xj
Thinking im going to do this.. How much did it cost?
Part numbers are listed in description. OReilly Prices are roughly $130 Master cylinder $130 brake booster $25 for reservoir on Amazon. If you really want to upgrade check out my rear disk swap video. It's a whole new animal now.
Do you know if a 99 Cherokee steering knuckle fits a 99 Durango
I'm going to say if you did the wj and rear zj brakes with a wj booster and master will make it better all around. I'm just concerned if anyone is running 15"alloys if you'll have the clearance. But if you just up it to 15 steel or 16 alloy you'll have the room. I know with good power stop brakes on my wj, I can literally lock up all 4 wheels going 40mph and it's not much pedal pressure compared to my old xj running 31" swampers.
I’m on 35x12.5r15 with Method 304 15x8 3.5bs wheels. WJ brakes with power stops in the front and new drums in the rear and adjusted. I can lock my brakes up in the rain but not when it’s dry with only a durango master cylinder. Also for 15” wheels i had 15” steelies for a while and had 1/8 of clearance without grinding the caliper. I ground the caliper down about 1/2 on all the ribs of the akebono calipers and i have about 1/8-3/8 clearance all the way around the calipers and wheels. So you can 100% fit alloy wheels.
Do you have a abs light on after the up grade?
I pulled all the fuses from under hood. No lights no issues. System never worked and when I did the rear axle swap I knew I was done trying to figure it out.
I know is a late comment but what year Durango ? Is the 98 or 99?
Part number I used is in description. It's from Oreilly auto. It shows it was for the 99.
nice factory upgrade, what year Durango parts fit?
I can't remember off hand what year the Durango master cylinder came off. But I've listed all the part numbers from Oriellys in the description.
I have a 97 xj 5 speed manual transmission.... will this be compatible with my XJ?
Yes
What year does the parts from the drango
@@jaydonshaffer2700 The master cylinder and reservoir is for a 1999 Durango. All parts used are from Oriley's auto and part numbers are listed in the video description.
Do U know if a '01. XJ is a dual diagram booster? Thank U for the videos. jasonC
01 should be the dual.
Good video! Might want to get a new steering wheel, or quit chewing on the one you have now? lol
It has seen many miles. Lol not sure on the taste.
I had no idea that some 98s still had single diaphragm. My 93 had single, but I was able to direct swap a double diaphragm from 95-96 models with no mod (got new part but grabbed spacer from JY 95 model). The double diaphragm definitely makes a difference. As long as you kept factory front disc rear drum, the prop valve can stay same. I changed to jeep Liberty rear disc (also drop in fit), so had to change to zj prop valve.
This internet upgrade had a lot of missing and questionable info I had to try and figure out. Oriellys parts list did show a single diaphragm and a dual for my 98 both measure close to the same size. Many chat forums had listed that duals came on newer models also. What I can say for sure is my booster was giving me trouble and needed to be replaced anyway. So just making sure if someone is going to swap it to make sure they get the dual. Testing internet theory has been difficult because I've found every different answer I could. Thanks for your response about your upgrade! I like to see everyone share the info to help others who are working on projects.
I have a 88 do you think that those parts from the video works on mine thanks
@@Alexmufasa-hz6vb the diaphragm attach point to brake pedal may need modification (grind part of connector loop flat)- yours has a flat edge on part of it to work with brake stop sensor. I think the rest would work, but suggest checking forums to be absolutely sure.
Can you pls shere the parts number so I can order the same thx
Part numbers are listed in description