$25 DIY "Smart" Door Locks - ElectroMagnet + Sonoff + Tasmota
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มี.ค. 2018
- www.DrZzs.com - for detailed description and more product links.
Thanks Bang Good!
Magnetic Lock goo.gl/PF829M
Cathode Lock goo.gl/PP8egz
Sonoff SV Module goo.gl/p6WKYf
Home Assistant settings =
Configuration.yaml
switch:
- platform: mqtt
name: Office Lock
state_topic: "stat/officelock/POWER"
command_topic: "cmnd/officelock/power"
payload_lock: "ON"
payload_unlock: "OFF"
optimistic: false
qos: 1
retain: true
- platform: mqtt
name: Shop Lock
state_topic: "stat/shoplock/POWER"
command_topic: "cmnd/shoplock/power"
payload_lock: "ON"
payload_unlock: "OFF"
optimistic: false
Customize.yaml:
switch.office_lock:
icon: mdi:lock
switch.shop_lock:
icon: mdi:lock
Groups.yaml:
locks:
name: Locks
view: no
entities:
- switch.office_lock
- switch.shop_lock
Other Links:
FlasheZ: github.com/letscontrolit/ESPE...
Tasmota: github.com/arendst/Tasmota/re...
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Thank you!! I have a special needs son that can get out of the front door way too fast. Got the magnetic strike plate, and installed it on the outer door (metal screen door). Installed an outlet powered by a TP-link Kasa smart switch.
We have an Alexa routine set up to turn our front room lights to 100%, turn off the switch (unlock the door), announce that the door is unlocked, wait for 10 seconds, power the switch (lock the door), announce the door is locked, then turn off the lights.
Having the smart switch allows me to unlock the door at night from outside when I get home late.
Recently set up Home Assistant (thanks again for those incredible tutorials). Now we also have NFC tags on our door frame so we can just hold our phones up to trigger the same 10 second unlock automation.
DrZzs helping parents of special needs kids get some Zzzs knowing our kids can't escape the house at night!
Thanks Doc. I've been putting this off but now it is time. My locks will be for bedroom doors, similar to your senario for the inside room. If someone breaks in to the house and we are in one of the bedrooms, push a button and the lock will be activated. By the time they get the door kicked in, Mr. Smith & Wesson will be waiting. That extra few seconds could be the difference between life or death. My thinking is a smart outlet to supply power. A 433mhz wall mounted button will send a signal (via Sonoff rfbridge/Tasmota) to turn on the outlet, thus locking the door. Bench testing just around the corner. Oh, and a second button hidden somewhere else (kitchen or pantry) will also operate the lock to unlock it if needed.
I enjoyed the hell out of this video. Very new to all this and just clicking on anyone my searches dig up but man what a find. Love the format and great advice, thanks
My wife will be mad!!!that's a good one!!I love all your content!All the best from Romania!!
:)
Thanks!
Nice!!! I’ve been using Node Red to do the three way . This take out one point of failure!! Buying two of this switch.
First time I have seen the striker plate magnetic lock used that way. Have to remember that one. Nice video.
Thanks!
That seems to be my strength; finding new ways to use old equipment.
......FYI the Magnet lock sold by other suppliers has four wires....two for power and two for "door contact"... a control circuit uses this to confirm the door is closed. This will be one big plus in your case by using the "lock closed" icon to show the door is closed which is handy when you need confirmation your house is secure (doors are closed)..... In high security applications this contact is used to detect one door closed before the next door opens.....used to allow one person through at a time (just another application) In the case of the garage door lock... one just needs to send a "pulse" for it to open.(add a buzzer to confirm the lock is opening when using it on a outside gate at your front door)......thanks once again for great videos ....
Awesome!
Thanks for the tips!
I'm imagining how fun it would be to build one of those "escape rooms" with some of these locks, especially the ones you're talking about.
Hey could you share a link?
Thanks
I liked your video very much, i am working on barricade door locks, can you help me which RFID,Wifi chips to use for my lock?
OMG Perfect! I've been thinking of getting a smart lock but yeh. I dont like its closed source nature and price.
Ur very watchable man nicely edited videos too nice pace and concise very cool stuff I want an electromagnetic lock....
Awesome video as always. I just wonder if your super glue is same as my super glue in South Africa because I would never ever use it for that application. We have something specifically called cable glue for his purpose.
Excellent video. I will try to figure out a way to apply it to sliding glass doors.
ooh, very cool.
I'll have to think about that too. We don't have a sliding door to try it on.
Let me know what you come up with.
Great video. I agree with Bob Moran about a battery. In some cases, you would not need it to fail open for fire, because there are multiple exits. I'm in Florida, so occasionally you have multi-day power outages due to large storms. So maybe just using a dedicated UPS would be the way to go. Or better yet, 12v battery and solar backup.
One other thing, and perhaps its overkill, but it would be very inexpensive to do a lock at the top AND bottom. The equipment may be in the way a bit, but you would have much greater stopping force.
A keypad is really needed though, as someone else mentioned. Being outside you really want a quick way in. NFC might be easier though.
Great post, what is NFC?
UPS can get expensive. You can easily make one with a Li-Po battery and a cheap charge controller.
I also advise NOT using a lock that is fail safe open. Your power goes out and it is more time than the battery has charge for, you are leaving the door unsecure. By using a panic/stop switch to directly apply power, in emergencies, it can be unlocked. Some stop switches even have LEDs that can be wired to turn on when there is no mains power or the lights are off. So you can see it in the dark. Or simply always on and powered by the battery.
Oh and when using fail safe locks, use them only on interior doors, but if you have to keep them locked you can do that with Li-Po and charge controller I mentioned.
But for exterior it is best to use fail secure locks.
Very well done and also funny.
Thanks! That's the goal; make it useful and at least a little entertaining.
Wiring for the sonoff and the magnetic lock
How do I wire it ???
Really enjoy your channel.
I'm wondering if there is a zwave version of this s-on-off, might make things more easier?
Extra security for nefarious power cuts. Wire in a small 12v lead acid battery like the PX12072-HG to maintain the lock on power cut and maintain charge from house power. House on fire: Power on = normal exit, Mains power off battrey up = normal exit , Mains down and battery dead = fail safe unlock.
yes! Excellent solution!
No need to do that, just get a fail-secure lock instead of a fail-safe one.
David Jeffers this is an opportunity to consider a personal philosophy and the possibility of creating a tortured death by fire for someone in the event of a total system failure. I suppose if you don’t have security bars on the windows or could exit that way, most people with mild intelligence and a survival instinct would be able to exit and the chances of that kind of failure to someone other than yourself might be very small so perhaps I would consider your suggestion but more likely I’d go the battery backup route. I was thinking I’d need to lock my electric panel but what a hassle. And shouldn’t it be locked with a smart lock? lol
@ Bob Moran This is only half a solution for the lazy and forgetful person who may become lax in keeping the battery changed. Amazon shows they are often sold with a trickle charger, however those will use electricity and over charge and ruin the battery if left on all the time. Therefore a UPS smart charger or battery tender is required. Maybe there are other systems that should be kept on in the event of a power failure so perhaps a more robust battery and support wire system would be helpful?
Don't use the supplied latch with your electric strike, it's not deadlatching so the door can be shimmed open easily. Electric strikes require adding some play between the latch and the electric strike which means if you have a similar shaped latch but one with a dead latch triggering button in it that button can slip inside or be forced inside the strike hole and make it non deadlatching amd shimmable. What you want is an auto deadlatching mortice lock like a lockwood 3572 which has the deadlatching trigger above the latch or bolt, the button presses against the face plate of the elec strike at all times when it is closed and gives you reliable dead latching.
i like your calm man
Love the alignment gag at 8:02 ;)
Gotta fit some D&D humor in there whenever I can. :)
You're awesome keep the good work up!
Thanks!
Great Video ! ...Is there a way to get this done without a power supply ? Say for use inside a cabinet ?
thanks!
not with the locks I used. They require too much power to run on battery when they are locked. Maybe if you found some "fail-secure" style locks that might work. You'd want to have them locked most of the time, and for fail-secure, they wouldn't need power when locked, only when unlocked.
You might be able to find a electric lock that works using a motor, to move the lock latch open or into the closed position. I have seen a few diy solutions using a servo, but that's not ideal either.
Thanks for the vid. I will like to make this and add a fingerprint scanner for access? Is that a simple project? I'm able to follow this guide easily
You'll have to find a finger print scanner that will output something that can trigger the relay on the Sonoff SV. It may not be too difficult, but I wouldn't say it's easy, and following this video wouldn't give you everything you'll need to know.
I'll look into fingerprint sensors and see if I can put together something about how to incorporate them into HA.
@@DrZzs that would be sweet. Thanks again
I love this. We're developing a security protocol for our church in case of the need for a lockdown and this solution will be perfect. Now, here's the challenge. Find us an electronic lock solution to retrofit vinyl sliding glass doors so we don't need a key to unlock them. ;)
Mag locks with a L bracket to hold the plate
Hey there, excellent video and really helpful! I was wondering if we can add somehow users to this smart lock. We need to give weekly access to people on specific time zones for each account, is this possible? Thank you again and have a great 2019!
I would say rather use a RFID Module kinda lock for that Purpose. That Costs 50 Dollars Including the Electromagnet, rfid box module, 100 rfid keys or cards and some other stuff. You can find it on Amazon.
Dude, you are awesome.
Thanks!
Good video entertaining to say the least your a good speaker
Awesome I have to try this for my garage
but if the power goes off, does this mean your house would be open ?
yes, if power goes out these lock turn off. If you want fail-secure locks it would need to be a different kind of lock. I haven't tackled that yet.
@@DrZzs maybe trying to build some kind of battery backup
Brou you are in other level Máster, thanks a Lot for this
Thanks man!
On the surface mount mag lock you can get them much bigger and stronger but ya if the door is going to fail first doesn't matter much
ya, at least with an interior door you could probably break the door before the magnet gives out. Maybe with a bigger stronger door it would be worth the extra $ to get a bigger magnet.
that is really sick.
Thanks for this video! Have u tried to use a template for make a lock appear correcly both in HA and HomeKit? I used this method for combine a Sonoff with a Xiaomi Door Sensor for make a perfect garage opener with Homekit support :)
No I haven’t, but that sounds great. I’ve got to learn how to use HA and Home Kit very soon.
Hi, DrZzs Coud you give more info about flip switch with the delay setup on 8:32 ?
Hi. I enjoy your videos very much. Can sonoff be used to control 208-240v wall a/c unit with alexa?
Thanks!
What is the current draw of the AC unit?
Most likely yes, it would work. They have many devices rated for 120-240v. The trick is just the amp draw of your AC unit. The Sonoff POW has a 16 amp rating. Most of the others (sonoff basic, dual, etc) are 10 amp.
I know someone else wanted to run a Heater/AC combo unit and wasn't able to because of the current limits.
Hope that helps!
thanks for the quick response. if the amperage is 15a can i use 2 units to cut both legs of the 240v line? can i use the ground w/ a pigtail as the neutral input on both units?
Love your videos. Although I'm using Pimatic for my Home automation. 😁
Pimatic?
That's a new one. I haven't heard of that before.
Pimatic is actually one of the oldest open source Smart Home automation software with if this then that setup out there. It is working great and very versatile. www.pimatic.org 😊
A little bit of this turkey goes a long way!!
drzzss you have to setup pulsemode on tasmota to 10-15 sec when trigggered to hold it than to switch
cool
Thanks!
Extra comment ~ super glue to place and hide the wire is genius! 😀🤘🏼 ,,If you thought fo that yourself you’re very smart👏🏼🤷🏻♂️😄👌🏼
Great. Now we need a way to integrate this to NFC tags, Mifare or maybe Bluetooth so we can call them really smart locks so I can ditch my expensive Salto Systems Solution.
Also, please know I AM NOT trying to troll or beat up your video. I am really happy I came across this as it's going to solve a lot of issues for me!
That said I do have a couple security notes:
I do not think the proper wording for the surface mount is to install it on the "Outside" of the door. Well, actually in your 'case,' it might be but not in all 'cases'. Bear with me here...
If you are exiting a room/home or let's call this exiting your secure area and your door swings toward you or into your secure area then yes. The proper term for the installation would be to place this on the outside of the door/door case.
But now, in turn, let's swing the other way. If you are exiting your "secure area" and the door swings away from you then you would do the installation on the inside of the door/door case.
Another note. mind you this is truly my personal opinion so don't roast me. For me, I would only use a surface-mount lock on doors that swing out/away from my "secure area" (away from me while exiting vs toward me). As personally feel it is a security risk to have the lock mechanism accessible from the outside of the secure area. So my PERSONAL opinion is that for doors that open into my "secure area," I would use the latch as you did on your dirty garage door (btw, little spray paint cleans that right up. 😂).
One other thought is In a lot of industrial buildings, I have seen these magnetic locks installed they have a motion sensor on the inside right above the door. So that the door can always be locked but as someone is exiting the door it automatically unlocks. Also, I personally do not care for the idea that during a power outage, all my doors would be unlocked so I plan to have some kind of battery backup.
Ever measure the power draw for the electro magnet?
It would be nice if u can demonstrate how to implement a NFC card system to open the door outside!
That's been a popular request. I'll start doing some research and put it on the list.
LOVE THIS GUY
Ha!
Awesome!
Thanks!
hey can't this be done just by using a smart plug for the lock's power transformer? not to diminish what is presented here, (thanks btw) but I think it would be far easier that way
Great video! Love the floating head. Made me laugh.
I don't get why the flashing and I know there is some benefits to it, I just haven't looked into it. Maybe you can explain why? It be nice. To me, using an MHCOZY is a faster way of doing it.
Anouther well done video.
Do you have access to Home assistant remotely? I haven’t found any good up to date videos on how to do that and I can’t figure it out on my own. I got Duck DNS installed and that’s as far as I got. ☹️
yes, i do have remote access. I set my home network IP address static. My router gives me that option. Some other routers might not. In the past I had a different one and had to get my ISP to give me a dedicated IP address. With the IP static I then forward an external port to 8123 on the IP address of my HA pi. I use DuckDNS too, but it's not as important since my IP is static.
I'm sure there are network security experts that would say there's a risk to having a static IP.
I have a password on my HA interface also. To get into my home network and make changes to config files and such I use OpenVPN.
So the easy answer is to get into your router and see if you can set your home IP address static. Then find port forwarding and forward an external port to port 8123 on the IP of your HA pi. You actually will need to set the IP of your HA pi static too.
For me I go under "LAN setup" and I can select devices to give a fixed or "reserved" IP address. So I do that with my HA pi and any other devices that I don't want the IP address to change if/when the router restarts.
Hope that is at least a little bit helpful.
Nice and cheap solution.
Thanks!
Assa Abloy have door locks that can be fully controlled and even without electricity they can be unlocked from inside by simply using the handle, including the deadlock
good job sir
Would this work outdoors, eg on a side gate (as long as there is a power source)? Or would the actual lock components need to be weather-proofed? Obviously the electronics would need to be housed in a waterproof case.
Anyone tried to fit this sort of lock outdoors on a weather-exposed gate, or is it a total non-starter?
A couple of questions - forgive my noobieness (is that even a word??) - You didn't show the actual wiring of the lock to the Sonoff. The wire you have running down the door jam from the surface mount lock - is that feeding power from the outlet to the Sonoff controller and then up to the lock? Do you have a video which explains more about the Sonoff low voltage controller?
Hey man! Nice video, I've been looking forward to this since you mentioned that you ordered these parts. Do you think you could do a tour video showing off all the products you've done up to this point?
Yes please!
That's a good idea. Yes, I'll get around to that in the next few weeks.
Gotta get the Maker Faire display done first.
I'm looking forward to that. I'm hoping to go to the faire this year.
This will be the first time I've had a booth. I'm really looking forward to it. Maker Faire is great.
hey bro , you did a good tutorial .(y). , which touch sensor you are using ?
Great video !
Thanks!
Hi, I have used a lock I setup from this video for many years but now I need to migrate to ESPhome but Cannot work out the best Yaml configuration to get an electric strike to open for 10 seconds and close again whilst reporting open or closed depending on whether the relay is active or not.
Any chance you can assist or do a video on Electric door locks with ESPhome?
Cheers!
for the strike plate Id prefer fail secure... otherwise your home is unlocked on a power failure... you can always open door normally even if no power or fire.
In fail secure you still need the lock to release in the event of a fire due to fire personnel or police ro be given access to get in from the outside. Fail safe is better in this situation or a battery backup for the the fail secure and a fire release installed with a full fire alarm to detect the fire.
@@designsbyphilip510 They're going to bust the door just the same as they will otherwise because when either of those arrive, it's worth a door. On the other hand if your front door opens up every time it loses power (black outs, brown outs) it's just a matter of time when it happens when you and your family are all sleeping.
Regardless these setups are dogshit anyway because you can open them with a magnet.
How did you wire this all together? At work I have a pneumatic push button wired in line to the push button to break the 12v circuit that also connects to our control panel.
I ran 12v to the input side of the Sonoff SV, the touch module button connects to GPIO14, 3.3v and ground. Then the lock connects to the output side of the sonoff.
so I can lock or unlock it with the touch module or with Home Assistant.
Hi,
At 8:33, when you say "With a flip of the switch", where did the switch come from, is it connected to your mains/your lights and how did you fit it/what did you fit TO it?
I'll forgive you for not actually flipping it ;)
Cheers.
Hey Dr Zzs. I've flashed several sonoff devices before using the FTDI adapter & ESPEasy. However, when I try it with the Sonoff SV (more than one) I get an instant error when I press Flash;
"Unhandled exception has occurred" etc etc.
I can't get around it... Any ideas?
I'm into home automation and use it for stuff like lights, doorbell , fridge door left open alarm .But i'm not yet sold on the smart lock. I prefer a manual lock and key for that one as there are just too many fail scenarios i can foresee.I think certain things are better left non automated.
I can certainly understand that.
I'm trying to think of things I DON'T want automated... I can't think of much. I'm a self-driving-car proponent too.
So when computers and AI take over the world, it'll be mostly my fault :)
DrZzs 😂 yeah we'll all blame you when skynet takes over...
I really enjoy your projects and solutions. Your floating head is a funny addition , Adams family style.
I just got a green-screen turtleneck shirt! I'm taking floating head tutorials to the next level!
I need your help i have a 3D printer i need a cooling system for the board unit which turns on automatically when the enclosure reaches a certain temp i have the temp sensor can you help :) :)
another 10 out of 10
Yes I i call then "Sonoff" cant call then "S" onoff sounds like a differance product
just got 2 Sonoff in the mail so Ill try that new way.
Thanks again for the Videos
Thanks!
This was a great project. Got a lot of personal satisfaction out of conquering the smart lock.
I just laugh when I try to say S-on/off. Just can't get myself to say it.
please drzzs do you have any plans to make a diy video doorbell or any ideas on a good one ?
Grap a raspberry pi zero with a noir cam or a regular cam for a total of $30 and fit it in your doorbell. You can use motion eyeos for the motion detection.
Alen E thank you
I concur with Alen. I need to do that too. We have a Ring doorbell right now. I'm not a big fan. The wife likes it though.
@Alen E / @DrZzs please will it have two way audio and buzzer / pir sensor ? is there a guide please ?
it sounds prefect for me as motioneye works with home assistnat and magic mirror.
I dont understand how to connect it to the bell ( dash button ) ?
will this work with amazon alexa ?
Keep your existing doorbell, you will need to make an enclosure for the pi that sits on top of it. I assume your doorbell is wired to an AC circuit, so you need to wire up a circuit that can detect current through the doorbell to the pi or can switch a transistor gate with the doorbell press that is picked up buy the pi gpio. Having a PIR is redundant, as the software in motioneye os can detect motion and trigger a script when detected (you need a NOIR pi camera with IR cut).
The cost of making this will run you over $80 with all the supplies. Grab a digoo doorbell camera off banggood for a total of $50 for an out of box solution. The digoo doorbell cam has a built in button and IR and onvif support so you can tap into the stream with homeassistant.
HAHA! You had a hard time counting to 4.... LOL Seriously though, nice video as usual. I've been wanting to put a strike lock on the front door with an RFID sensor. I would get the "Fail Safe NO" version so it stays locked if power is lost, but you could still get out in case of a fire from the regular door knob.
ya, it wasn't my proudest moment.
I need to try RFID. Maybe I'll get a chip implant like Jon at SuperHouse
Thanks!
Hahaha, I saw that and almost mentioned it. I'm not that hard core. A key fob or card in my wallet is good enough.
Hi DrZzs can this use with RFID using a RC522 . nice video
Thanks!
I just peaked at the github page for esp-rfid, and it does appear the 522 is supported. github.com/omersiar/esp-rfid
So yes, it'll work.
Again very nice video. Thank you.!
Want to share it cracks me up the recurring wife approval theme. Not just here but HA in general.
Not implying i dictate it's just I'm still at early marriage stages and my ideas are still brilliant 😁😁
Thanks!
I hope it lasts for you. There was probably a time when all my ideas were brilliant to her. 18 years later... I'm just happy she still approves of at least some of them.
DrZzs 😁😁😁 definitely won't last. But enjoy while it does.
Thank you for the informative video. The esp "loader" is definitely a gem for many people that abhor the IDE process.
Hi
I wank ask how can i connect the lock with nfc reader so i can open the door with phone or card ?
I just did this last week. Not sure if you've already set this up (I'm answering a year later), but Home Assistant allows you to use a Tag to trigger an Automation. I have a tag on our interior door frame and one outside. Holding the phone up to them triggers the Automation to Unlock the magnetic plate, wait for 10 seconds, then relock it. I also have an automation to send a message when the door is unlocked, and relocked.
We don't use our magnetic lock for "security" we use it for safety. We have a special needs son that can unlock doors and get outside way too fast. The maglock set up prevents him from doing that.
is there fail secure latching options (12V)?
The only issue is they are failsafe locks.. We use maglocks at work they are great, until you loss power then the whole building is open to the world. I would strongly consider a battery backup in the setup.
The lock is only a strong as the strike late in the door frame if you use the screws that come with the standard lock which is about an inch maybe an inch and a quarter long it only goes through part of the frame if you replace the same screws with 3 in sheetrock screws it won't go through the frame and into the two by four that the door frame is nailed to. you will greatly increase your security on a standard door lock the most contractors are known for. You can also Mount that magnetic side lock I using a router to make your cut into the door frame or drilling several holes in the pattern and then chiseling it out that way you won't compromise the side of the door frame and it will be much stronger in the long run. that's how I mounted my magnetic lock
Awesome!
Good tips, thanks!
Hi DrZzs. Are you using presence detection with HomeAssistant? Which method?
What about using RFID to unlock the doors "magically"?
jhhernan1 motion detection would be cool, I think that could be done with a motion detector hooked up to a d1 mini.
Droid. S. But then anyone could unlock the door, what is the point of that?
I'd like to try RFID!
We use OwnTracks, and iOS app. It's pretty good. Not perfect.
This is the set-up I'd like to do someday:
community.home-assistant.io/t/homekit-iphone-multi-user-presence-detection-using-homebridge/28453
Seems to be the most reliable.
Motion sensor or pir sensor, while convenient is pretty easy to trip with a stiff wire and flag, or as simple as a can of compressed air. Check some Def-Con videos on penetration testing.
I'll be waiting for the video with RFID! I dont use AppleTV nor iPad so that set-up is not for me. Thank you very much.
The world anxiously-awaits the ESPEasy evaluation...
hahaha
ok, ok, I won't wait much longer!
@DrZzs, I don't have any questions right now, I just wanted to say, you're very, very cool.
Thanks man! That’s good to hear sometimes :)
I'm just two minutes into the video but ... if the power goes out your door opens? What about blackouts?
You could always wire in an alarm panel battery
Just about to order the parts but one question, how do you decide for how long the door is unlocked after pressing the button... Don't have any S on/Off's ;) but was planning on using a Wemos D1 instead!
Good question. I don’t have it timed. Mine just toggles, so I have to press the button again or use Home Assistant to re-lock it.
I’d guess 2 min would be plenty of time if you’re just passing through the door. If you use TASMOTA you can use pulsetime to set a number of seconds that the relay stays open/closed. Or an automation in HA that triggers when the door unlocks, delays a couple minutes then relocks. Just a couple ideas.
Are you using the D1 mini relay shield?
Thanks, yeah was thinking of adding it to the automation to just to avoid the need to keep the button pressed to enter :D
And yes, your splendid video about automatic garage door opener made me order a bunch of D1 Pro's and relay shields just to play around with, was planning on making the lights turn on etc. when we get home with the car at first!
Quick question since you seem to great at tinkering... What's the best way to include a external RFID keypad, I want to add one to be able to get in even if my phone is uncharged! I've ordered 2 of these www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Security-RFID-Proximity-Entry-Door-Lock-Access-Control-System-10-Keys-p-61575.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
I'd have to mess with it to be able to say for sure. My guess is when you type in the correct code there's some kind of voltage output that you can tap into to trigger (or release) the relay, just like you would use a push button.
Hopefully you'll get a manual that'll point out where to connect the lock circuit. If not you can experiment with putting the code in an testing the outputs with a multimeter to see which one goes high (or low) when you get the code correct.
If it isn't clear how to connect the lock circuit when you get the key pads let me know and we'll try to figure it out together.
Lock snob nitpicker here. I looked at the "12V Electric Strikes Lock Fail Safe NC Cathode For Access Control Wood Metal Door". Unfortunately it looks like it wouldn't be able to activate the dead latch without some tinkering when used with a regular latch like Dr Zzzs did and the latch that comes with it isn't a dead latch at all.
That means it's easy to bypass with a credit card or shrum tool. I wouldn't consider it suitable for anything but keeping away nuisance traffic without modification.
Cutting power would be a second bypass but that could be overcome with backup power.
I have a lock like it, i can connect to the fire alarm control panel, if the fire alarm goes off, it unlocks all doors connected to the panel
I don't understand anything but I really want to start learning robotics and this seems like a good start :(( I wish there's like a how to basic for this guide that also explains the terms he's using
There's a whole lot of information out there to learn. I'm not sure this would qualify as robotics, but I guess some of the principles are the same.
Keep searching. There are a lot of basic How-to's on getting started with electronics. Sorry I can't explain all the basics in every video. They'd all me an hour long if I did :)
Try Adafruit for getting started with Robotics.
learn.adafruit.com/category/robotics
Wow this is so complicated!!!
What are your thoughts about the issue of your house unlocking in the event of a power-failure (or someone cutting the power outside your house?)
It seems to me, the way to handle it is kind of what you had with your garage (but the lock MUST NOT have a fail-safe mode). Meaning, if the power is cut by some bad people (to also inhibit your security system from going off) the the lock should REMAIN locked, but a person trying to escape a fire, could simply turn the handle, as they would already expect to do.
Can these locks have the fail-safe deactivated to support this?
Thanks,
Daniel
Yeah I definitely wouldn't implement this here in Arizona where all of our breaker panels are on the exterior of the house.
The mag lock won't work without power. One would need a battery backup. And without power you probably won't t have internet or WiFi at the house so you have no way to open the lock. The only way I can see to do it is with a battery operated device that also accepts a key.... So basically it needs to be just like all the other smart locks out there. Battery operated motor that extends and retracts the deadbolt and accepts a key.
there may be non-fail safe locks out there. That are locked without power, and unlock when power is applied. I'll have to search around.
I used to live in AZ and LV. Had to get out of the heat. Would be easy for someone to cut the power for sure.
Someday, when we all have Tesla battery packs hanging in the garage we won't ever have to worry about the power going out.
The way DrZzs installed the lock in his garage is how I've seen businesses do it, and it works perfectly (albeit not as a "smart lock") when the power is cut. The way he installed it, was to have both a knob (or deadbolt, I guess) AS WELL AS the mag-lock. His setup can be opened just as easily by grabbing the doorknob as by pressing a button. The problem is the application of power is opposite of what you need for security but for the price (and ease of use!) this is the best setup I've seen so far.
As David mentioned, a lot of us have circuit panels OUTSIDE the house, so it would be pretty easy for someone to cut/smash the padlock off my panel and just kill the power.
I didn't really understand how the cathode lock works . How And where is the sonoff connected to it? Is there a button to open it? I got confused even you said if either one is locked out will be unlocked ( how will it lock from home assistant then).
I don't know about sonoff, but if you mean how the lock works when power is applied to the magnet inside it moves the movable part so that you can pull the door open, when the power isn't applied it goes back to locked position.
Hi everyone, I have an electronic old fashion lock that works with key or with a pulse button that opens it automatically just when I push it. Is there any sonoff or way to make it smart also that it works with the key, the button but also from sonoff or any other device Smartphone app?
if you had of drilled right through your door frame and 2x4 and pushed to wire in to the cavity with your plate the wire would have been in the wall for future automation projects but i like your video found it informative.
Thanks
that's a good idea. I'll do that on the next one.
If there is a fire and you have a smart fire system have it unlock when fire is detected.
Helz ya!
Do you have "smart" fire detectors? I have one flame sensor I need to tinker with. I haven't looked at smoke detectors yet, but that should be on my list of videos to do someday!
I went with NEST. You can add them to Home Assistant. No need to scrimp on safety
As I rent I have not bought one it is on my todo list.
ya, smoke detectors might not be the best place to save money.
DrZzs th-cam.com/video/8fIWIpw0SwM/w-d-xo.html
Is there any way to add in a number pad to open the locks with?
There might be. I think you’d probably have to use an Arduino sketch instead of TASMOTA. And I wouldn’t know what to put in that sketch to set it up for the keypad.
Probably a better solution would be an NFC chip. It would be setup in TASMOTA like another switch. I’ll have to play with that and see if I can make it work.
Dr zzs one question, how can i do if i want to open door from outside, without smarphone, exist something like a magnetic card ot other sistem to open from outside?
Good question. I don't know anything about magnetic card readers. I've thought about hiding a capacitive touch module that I can activate from the outside but no one can see and only I know where it is. I'd put it someplace weird like down by the floor or up above the door. It would depend on where I could easily run the wires.
I'll try to figure out some cool external unlocking system.
will this flash work with the regular sonoff too? as far as you know?
yes is sure will. I've used "Flash-eZ" with sonoff basics and even with the B1 light bulb.
"S on/off" :D I have a feeling that guy tried to troll you. No one, I repeat, no one I know pronounces "Sonoff" that way.
could be.
It makes total sense S=smart S-on-off...what else will "sonoff"mean?
@@georgedemean2228 I do not know but Soon Off could mean something else lol
Have you tried making Self opening / Closing (Swinging mechanism) door at reasonable price.
I haven’t but I’d like to try. Can you post a link to what we’d be trying to replicate?
Sure, this is one link: th-cam.com/video/Lp0_dKXl2MA/w-d-xo.html
and there is one more: th-cam.com/video/iku3-8GG6II/w-d-xo.html
Also have you tried Self Opening Window: th-cam.com/video/zvzDeWH2ttM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/rwd9-odcQeM/w-d-xo.html
And one more for door opening: th-cam.com/video/rwd9-odcQeM/w-d-xo.html
I am sure you can do it better and more efficient way. Would love to see you doing at fraction of the cost than this fancy system
Those are cool. I’ll give some thought to how we might make one.
Why not use an electric strike that is normally open? If the strike won’t release in a fire you could always turn the knob like every other door you’ll encounter but won’t lose security in a power outage
It seems to me you could just take an $5 off the shelf smart plug and plug the lock into that, then you can use the Alexa app on your phone (or the echo in your house) to lock and unlock. You could even use geofencing to have it unlock when you get home and lock when you leave. I would also probably have a wall wart charging a small 12v battery and run the lock off that, so when the power goes out my house isn't unlocked.
That's what I was thinking. Set the magnetic lock to lock and stay locked during set times when the power is turned on then freely open when the power is turned off.
Hey please make a keypad or other authentication device for this lock so you can unlock from the outside without a phone or anything. You could go NFC tag(done already by super house) or a keypad or fingerprint reader or Iris scanner.
That would be cool!
Check out SuperHouseTV. He got an NFC chip implanted in his arm to use to open his doors. That's dedication!
The fail safe is a problem. If someone want to access your house or room, they just shut the breaker or power to the house/room. Just like safe-lock feature in a movie. Can this feature be disable?
No, can't disable it. I believe there are non-fail safe locks too. I'm not worried about someone cutting the power to get past the lock. Our circuit breakers are in the house in the basement. You can't shut them off from outside the house.
Not if they pull out the electric meter off the housing. That's what I did when I replace the main breaker board. I just brought 3 of this magnetic locks using your link. I am using for my home office french doors to keep kids out hope they does not know what the circuit break is. Thanks for respond and the great video.
cool!
thanks :)
You're welcome!!
I do access control from time to time at work. Having the Mag lock unlock when the power is cut is a bad thing if you're using these locks for external entries. Typically there is a Battery Backup to keep the Magnet energized when there is no power, I typically recommend a SMP3 from Altronix for single Door use. Now for emergencies such as medical, police or fire there is a huge slew of ways. For fire it is typically attached to the Fire system in some way that latches the REX (egress or Request to Exit) button until it is either reset or when the Fire System is disarmed.
Now taking something that is used for a Commercial/Industrial setting and using it for Home use I would use the same equipment but include a Battery Backup, have the Egress Button wired to break the Ground connection to the Magnet. Include a Smoke detector that you can toss into Home Assistant and either have it wired into the Magnet as well or even use a ESP control a Relay for egress. However keep in mind you'll want the ESP to be on a Battery Backup as well.
I'm planning to deploy a Maglock for my Master Bedroom Door, the Kids keep going in there when we are not home. Have a RFID tag for Ingress and Touch Sensor for Egress. Since I have my Alarm Panel in the closet I can tap into that for Power and Battery Backup. I'm currently working on getting my Smoke Detectors into Home Assistant, might try a Shelly and use it to seek the signal line so when it sees Voltage or Current it can tell HA to notify.
Yes And also you would install MagLock on secured side so it could not be tampered with and you would have two ways to cut power on secured side for Free egress
you are the best influencer ever, greetings from mexico, i love your channel
hi, can you please share the wiring diagram ?
Eletromagnetic Door lock = $25 bucks
Esp 8266 = $9 bucks
Your funny faces = priceless 🤣🤣🤣
haha!
Thanks
Wirering diagram for Modemcu.
any way we can get the part list and schematic on the sonoff?
Is this what you're looking for?
www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_SV