That's an inspiration. I'm going to use a small cabinet maglock, and then when the players figure out the puzzle, the cabinet door will be launched across the room.
My goodness, I wish I had known about the feedback switch on these locks about 3 escape rooms ago. I assumed it was simply a signal return for an arduino type controller. I learned the hard way about burning these switches out, and ended up adding a manual kill switch to the power supply, turning off the power once the puzzle was completed. Had I realized that there was a limit switch inside the casing, using it to cut the power would have saved a lot of headache and further automated my rooms. Thanks for this video!!
The snubber diode does not "gradually dissipate" anything. It acts as a dead short to the back EMF. That is why it is important to select a diode that can handle high enough current and , as the back EMF can also be high voltage, the diode needs to handle that as well .
My wife and I designed three escape rooms and I used one of the cabinet mag locks to secure a drawer. The drawer was triggered by a Hall sensor installed in a wall. Occasionally, the triggering magnet was left in position and, as you described, the latch was damaged and ceased to function. The heat generated by the continuous application of power to the coil apparently softened the plastic coil bobbin, it warped and didn't allow the solenoid core to move. I replaced the cabinet mag lock with a fail-safe mag lock and haven't used the cabinet locks in any other puzzles. DARN!!! Great information.
I used a cabinet mag lock a couple years ago for an escape room party. I had to fumble through it myself and was unaware of the kill switch option. Wish I had seen this video first!
1N4001 diode is going to have a short lifetime in this circuit, due to it's 50 volt (max) rating and the several hundred volts of back-emf that this coil instantly develops in the absence of those other parts on that circuit board (which slow down the discharge and moderate the back electromotive force). For maybe 5 cents more, buy a 1N4007 which has a 1000 volt max rating and will last the life of the mag-lock. If you are using this this with an arduino as he suggests, put a capacitor across the coil and diode so all three are in parallel, use a 100 nanofarad ceramic capacitor rated at 1000 volts (also called a 0.1 microfarad ceramic condenser rated at 1 KV) which you can buy for about twenty cents or so at this time (Jan 2023). Yes, this is the same protection cars use with the coil that makes your plugs spark. Same reason : cheap insurance for the computer.
You can also get monitored armature style maglocks that can sense when the door is shut and locked similar to the ast mechanical lock you showed. There's also armature type maglocks that are power to release so a permanent magnet holds it locked and an electromagnet cancels the magnetic field and release the lock.
Is there a flush magnetic lock that is small enough to mortise in jamb and plates into the doors closing edge. If so would that work as the lock would be sliding across not butting each other. I would likely use 2 of the smaller sizes in series , one favoring the top and the other at the bottom, with diodes at both.
Quick question. I have a escape puzzle that is setup to use a magnetic lock. I am wanting to use a door latch style mag lock instead. Of course when I power up the puzzle it turns on the lock and releases and starts heating up the solenoid. How can I use the puzzle and the latch style mag lock??
Thank you 🙏 been looking for som easy to understand info about maglocks! Do you have any good tips on were to buy good quality maglocks and also if you got any tips or trix for programming/wiring a board for opening it :D
Hi Totally new here, looking to learn. What kind of power supply do you use? I want to use some of these in am escape room im creating but have no odea how to power them and i corporate the power into the room.
I am facing a problem regarding this kind of lock. But thank you you sort out the problem. I am using another electric lock and attach that lock with a zkteco facial and fingerprint bio matric machine. But that is still working. Because in that lock no plus minus cables. Just straight cables. When I contact that lock with machine it's always on. And tik tik always. So next I will try magnetic lock if I will not set that lock.
you want a 12 volt supply (or 24 volt, check your literature) that can continuously supply 5 or more amps of electricity (not peak value, continuous value) without overheating. It will be rated at 60 watts or more if the amps are not listed on the package. You want this rating for safety even if the lock claims it only draws 2 or 3 amps of power, and use 18 gauge or larger wires from the supply to the magnetic coil, 16 gauge would be better.
I did Michael, power supply is 12V and got a little converter box to use, turns 110 into 12V and you just need to run the wires to both , the mounting is thru the holes I would guess, on mine.
Good question! Those little blue solenoids in the cabinet maglocks are still inductive loads, so there will still be some back EMF generated from them. I haven't measured it, but I am confident it will be substantially less than from the bar-style maglocks, simply because the magnetic field they produce is so much less weaker - they only pull that little catch down rather than actually provide any magnetic holding force themselves. So, in practice, I don't bother adding the diode for them (but, "best practice" would suggest you probably should). Just make sure you trigger the power for them from an isolated relay module, to keep them away from any Arduinos etc. and you should be fine.
@@PlayfulTechnology I used one of these cabinet style locks activated by a simple reed switch circuit. The reed switches would regularly fuse together, creating a closed circuit due to the issue you mentioned. It wasn't until I added a power supply meant for door locks that the problem resolved. Originally I powered it with a regular 12v wall adapter, the additional power supply 'absorbed' any backwards charge and protected my reeds.
@@PlayfulTechnology the strength of the field is not what determines the voltage, it's the abruptness of the cutoff switch that makes the voltage fly up. Use the diode, it costs 50 cents and saves years of service.
Love the video, but of the two you show at the beginning,... ONLY the larger is a Mag lock,... the smaller one is a solenoid actuated mechanical lock not a magnetic lock.
Err, no! That's most definitely not right. Maglocks really are incredibly simple, electronically - they're just coils of wire around a ferrous core. Are you sure there's nothing wrong with the power supply you were using?
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 61 | คู่เอก "เพชรสุขุมวิท vs ดวงสมพงษ์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/edA1HvEyxh8/mqdefault.jpg)
That's an inspiration. I'm going to use a small cabinet maglock, and then when the players figure out the puzzle, the cabinet door will be launched across the room.
My goodness, I wish I had known about the feedback switch on these locks about 3 escape rooms ago. I assumed it was simply a signal return for an arduino type controller. I learned the hard way about burning these switches out, and ended up adding a manual kill switch to the power supply, turning off the power once the puzzle was completed. Had I realized that there was a limit switch inside the casing, using it to cut the power would have saved a lot of headache and further automated my rooms. Thanks for this video!!
The snubber diode does not "gradually dissipate" anything. It acts as a dead short to the back EMF.
That is why it is important to select a diode that can handle high enough current and , as the back EMF can also be high voltage, the diode needs to handle that as well .
My wife and I designed three escape rooms and I used one of the cabinet mag locks to secure a drawer. The drawer was triggered by a Hall sensor installed in a wall. Occasionally, the triggering magnet was left in position and, as you described, the latch was damaged and ceased to function. The heat generated by the continuous application of power to the coil apparently softened the plastic coil bobbin, it warped and didn't allow the solenoid core to move. I replaced the cabinet mag lock with a fail-safe mag lock and haven't used the cabinet locks in any other puzzles. DARN!!! Great information.
Excellent video! Would've loved to have this back when I started out making escape rooms! :D
I used a cabinet mag lock a couple years ago for an escape room party. I had to fumble through it myself and was unaware of the kill switch option. Wish I had seen this video first!
As always, a great, concise and informative video, even teaching us old dogs new tricks ;)
Thank you for explanation!
Excellent explanation and presentation. Well done!
Awh, thankyou for the kind comment, and I'm glad you liked it!
well explained thank you.
Many years ago I found loads of these in a skip. Loads of tinkering fun for years :D
1N4001 diode is going to have a short lifetime in this circuit, due to it's 50 volt (max) rating and the several hundred volts of back-emf that this coil instantly develops in the absence of those other parts on that circuit board (which slow down the discharge and moderate the back electromotive force). For maybe 5 cents more, buy a 1N4007 which has a 1000 volt max rating and will last the life of the mag-lock. If you are using this this with an arduino as he suggests, put a capacitor across the coil and diode so all three are in parallel, use a 100 nanofarad ceramic capacitor rated at 1000 volts (also called a 0.1 microfarad ceramic condenser rated at 1 KV) which you can buy for about twenty cents or so at this time (Jan 2023). Yes, this is the same protection cars use with the coil that makes your plugs spark. Same reason : cheap insurance for the computer.
Many thank for the time and effort to make this video.From Cyprus
And thankyou for taking the time to write a kind comment - I'm glad you found it helpful!
Amazing!
great video!!
You can also get monitored armature style maglocks that can sense when the door is shut and locked similar to the ast mechanical lock you showed. There's also armature type maglocks that are power to release so a permanent magnet holds it locked and an electromagnet cancels the magnetic field and release the lock.
The permanent magnet style saves electricity but is an extreme danger if a fire happens. Check with your insurance company if in doubt.
Great video!
Is there a flush magnetic lock that is small enough to mortise in jamb and plates into the doors closing edge. If so would that work as the lock would be sliding across not butting each other. I would likely use 2 of the smaller sizes in series , one favoring the top and the other at the bottom, with diodes at both.
Quick question. I have a escape puzzle that is setup to use a magnetic lock. I am wanting to use a door latch style mag lock instead. Of course when I power up the puzzle it turns on the lock and releases and starts heating up the solenoid. How can I use the puzzle and the latch style mag lock??
good for todays hustling
Where can we find the cabinet solenoid fail secure lock with the kill switch feature?
How can you add a keypad to your node red software and display what they are typing and reset it from there
Thank you 🙏 been looking for som easy to understand info about maglocks! Do you have any good tips on were to buy good quality maglocks and also if you got any tips or trix for programming/wiring a board for opening it :D
use a relay between the arduino and the lock, just as the power locks and windows in your car does.
Excellent presentation with the charming British accent.
Hi Totally new here, looking to learn. What kind of power supply do you use? I want to use some of these in am escape room im creating but have no odea how to power them and i corporate the power into the room.
Thx ❤
I am facing a problem regarding this kind of lock. But thank you you sort out the problem. I am using another electric lock and attach that lock with a zkteco facial and fingerprint bio matric machine. But that is still working. Because in that lock no plus minus cables. Just straight cables. When I contact that lock with machine it's always on. And tik tik always. So next I will try magnetic lock if I will not set that lock.
Sir i have some problem on strobe light. Please help me fix.
Great explanation! Just one question... can you use any 12 volt supply? A standard 220 to 12 volt power adapter will work? Thanks!
you want a 12 volt supply (or 24 volt, check your literature) that can continuously supply 5 or more amps of electricity (not peak value, continuous value) without overheating. It will be rated at 60 watts or more if the amps are not listed on the package. You want this rating for safety even if the lock claims it only draws 2 or 3 amps of power, and use 18 gauge or larger wires from the supply to the magnetic coil, 16 gauge would be better.
❤
My housing have installed these doors ,now I lost my key fob and can't get back in until a neighbour leaves ,any way of using my phone to open it ?
Where is the best place to find power supply , for the fail safe lock, like how to mount, 110to 12V switches and more, great video,.👍👍👍👍
Ever figure this out? I have the same question
I did Michael, power supply is 12V and got a little converter box to use, turns 110 into 12V and you just need to run the wires to both , the mounting is thru the holes I would guess, on mine.
How do I make it open without key
EM lock one side working other side not working so what problem
I'd be interested to know if you think flyback diodes are necessary for cabinet locks? We haven't used diodes but I've wondered if we should have!
Good question! Those little blue solenoids in the cabinet maglocks are still inductive loads, so there will still be some back EMF generated from them. I haven't measured it, but I am confident it will be substantially less than from the bar-style maglocks, simply because the magnetic field they produce is so much less weaker - they only pull that little catch down rather than actually provide any magnetic holding force themselves. So, in practice, I don't bother adding the diode for them (but, "best practice" would suggest you probably should). Just make sure you trigger the power for them from an isolated relay module, to keep them away from any Arduinos etc. and you should be fine.
@@PlayfulTechnology I used one of these cabinet style locks activated by a simple reed switch circuit. The reed switches would regularly fuse together, creating a closed circuit due to the issue you mentioned. It wasn't until I added a power supply meant for door locks that the problem resolved. Originally I powered it with a regular 12v wall adapter, the additional power supply 'absorbed' any backwards charge and protected my reeds.
@@beezlehorse That's good to know, thanks!
@@PlayfulTechnology the strength of the field is not what determines the voltage, it's the abruptness of the cutoff switch that makes the voltage fly up. Use the diode, it costs 50 cents and saves years of service.
Instant follow
Love the video, but of the two you show at the beginning,... ONLY the larger is a Mag lock,... the smaller one is a solenoid actuated mechanical lock not a magnetic lock.
What diode was that? Thanks
1N4007 or 1N4005 are perfects to this purpose
When a maglock loses most of but not all of its magnetic power and it is not an alignment issue what should I be looking for?
maybe it's time to buy a new house
So to break in, one simply needs to flip the breaker 😮
Are we able to download your escape room software
Yes, of course. It's based on Node-RED: nodered.org/ Then, follow the "recipes" at github.com/playfultechnology/node-redscape/wiki
More like an electromagnet we have them in college and students 👨🎓 can’t unlock them but staff members can like professors 👨🏻🏫
I bought 4x 280kg 5YOA mag locks: 2 were DOA, the other 2 died after taking of power the first time. Is this a known issue?
Err, no! That's most definitely not right. Maglocks really are incredibly simple, electronically - they're just coils of wire around a ferrous core. Are you sure there's nothing wrong with the power supply you were using?
Thanks, From Pakistan.
lol. Cut the power and the lock is open.
You know nothing
so hide the wires on the other side of the door !
I have to sometimes troubleshoot the delayed egress maglocks that are mainly used in hospitals here the US. God I hate those.