Ron; I am using Liquid Nails to hold down my track. Apply it, spread it with a putty knife, and lay the track. It does dry relatively quickly, but adheres very well. The color (off white) can be dealt with when ballast is applied. One caution is to be sure to leave the adhesive clear from the actual points on a turnout. Dave Harrington
Ron recently I was asked by a friend , we both struggle with terminology and many other terms, how he can get into model railroading. I explained after two years I’m still struggling with some things and terms. This video hits point on what we are looking for as to help other disabled veterans who struggle with new task. I realized a big problem is the lingo and the length of the videos as our focus doesn’t last long.
Thank you, Ron, for a thorough discussion on the types of adhesives and applications. I think I'll go back and play it again and write notes to myself on how, why, and what for use of adhesives in the near future. Best wishes and stay safe. - Dean from Minnesota
*Opens with a model railroad focused dad joke - NICE I have a shirt exactly like that. 🙃 Choosing an adhesive is key in pretty much any modeling. When I was younger, whether it was trains, model cars, or kitbash projects, my default was superglue. Definitely not what you want to choose with clear plastic though! I was going to mention Tacky Glue and then it showed up on screen, so I won't. Oh wait... Um... I've always been too clumsy for plastic welding. Handy hint... if you want to matte a photo, rubber cement is a good way to go. Apply to both the matte and the back of the photo, let dry, put them together, wipe away any excess. It's good for situations where spray matte might be a bit too messy.
Great video. Lots of great information. I usually don't have the attention span to watch a video this long but you did a good job presenting the information and kept me interested and learning. You must have been a teacher in another life. Lol. Stay well. 👍
Pliobond is also a thermosetting polymeric adhesive. When gluing metal to wood the curing process can be hastened and driven to completion by slightly heating (e.g., with a soldering iron or clothing iron) the metal. Excellent, practical video. Kennedy
Another great video Ron, I have learned a lot from watching you. One situation that I continue to struggle with is constructing white metal kits. The only ones I’ve attempted are the pieces included with DPM kits. They never stay together or look horrible when they do and disassemble them almost immediately. Any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Bill. I wish I had a magic solution for you. IMHO white metal is the worst. The best solution is probably epoxy, but it is hard to mix and work with for very small applications like you are probably refering to. I typically use CA for detail parts, but it is imperfect at best.
I was hoping you would give a demo. On some adhesives. I want to glue L.E.D. bulbs to my N scale bachmann F 7 units. But afraid Crazy glue or even model glue will discolor my lenses. What glue will work to glue L.E.D. to train lens without damaging them ?
What are your thoughts on using hot glue gun sticks? I've used it to secure track and roadbed to the layout by using a small amount every few inches. Seems to be holding firm and it can be separated without difficulty (which is really nice for those of us who make mistakes!).
I'm putting train under Christmas tree and was just looking into temporary adhesives for keeping tracks together. I was seeing all these fancy ones and a few minutes ago I thought about just Elmer's and then hot glue. Can't believe nobody mentioned it but I just decided in my head that would be easiest to apply and remove. Then I saw your comment lol
I have been thinking about this topic a lot recently as I have amassed quite a few different adhesive options. When you posted your solvent video last week, I was wondering if this was in the works.
I recently become aware of your channel. I really enjoyed your video about engineeriing your limited work space. Some lessons there I could certainly learn from. Thanks for the comment.
For EASY remival ou need a water solluable glue like Elmer's School Glue, but it will tend to soften when applying other glues for ballast and scenery, so be careful.
There is a lot of Glue talk here but there isn't any sort of application guide. I'm trying to determine what adhesive would be best for assembling a new Walthers kit I purchased.
Hi Ron... I'm on my Windows 10 desktop computer using Google Chrome to watch your videos. The attached screenshot of your web page shows what I see on my screen. There's only the one description line and no "show more". Regards...Dave Heggblom
Great video, one question using glue for models, I have the one you have for plastic or styrene but I have seen one that uses a needle type application is this same stuff just not sure thanks
I don't know one that comes with such an applicator on the bottle, but Flex-I-File makes the Touch-N-Flow applicator which I use and love. Here is a link: amzn.to/2AFz0Sw
Depends on if you are viewing on a computer or phone. On a computer, look for the description right below the video. It only shows about 3 lines, then says "show more." Click the show more. It is about the 5th green check marked item. On a phone next to the title below the video there is a little down arrow. Click that to expand the description and again it is the 5th green checkmark.
Some type of solvent cement. Which one depends on what type of plastic. For most applications I use MED with a few small scraps of styrene melted into it for filler. You can also buy commercial equivalents like Micro-Mark Same Stuff or Plast-I-Weld.
In the last month I've made videos about installing track feeders, forced perspective for scenery, reviewed 2 or 3 different locomotives, plus. In that same time I've made 1 video for the paid side. I'm working on a weathering project, a structure model, and another review in the next month.
Hi Ron! Thx for all of your videos. I learned a lot. On this particular one I'll ask you something: I'm looking for an adhesive based on or made of (a kind) of *transparent* silicone gel used to seal joints in bathrooms for example, that I can dilute simply with IsoPropanolAlcohol (IPA) because IPA is evaporating so fast and - that would be a big advantage - is and will be so much flexible when it's dried. Do you have any idea? Greetrings from Beste Grüße aus dem Salzburger Land *Austria* Stephan *The Railroader from the Coast* *Der-Kueste-N-Bahner* 👉 “ *May the Trains run with you!* ” 😎 👉 “ *Möge die Bahn mit Dir fahren!* ” 😎
Hi Stephan. Clear silicone is readily available, but how to dilute it is a question I have never pondered. You might ask someone at your local hardware store as silicone is a commond building sealant.
My favorite by far is Styro Goo. It bonds quickly, cures despite lack of oxygen between the foam, and is cuttable with hot wire tools. Here is a link: hotwirefoamfactory.com/-028SG--StyroGoo-.html?keep_https=yes
Learn about tools for all kinds of model railroad projects here: th-cam.com/video/2W9kpHw1UDQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on different types of glue.
Thanks Ron for keeping us all sane with your excellent videos.
Ron;
I am using Liquid Nails to hold down my track. Apply it, spread it with a putty knife, and lay the track. It does dry relatively quickly, but adheres very well. The color (off white) can be dealt with when ballast is applied. One caution is to be sure to leave the adhesive clear from the actual points on a turnout.
Dave Harrington
Ron recently I was asked by a friend , we both struggle with terminology and many other terms, how he can get into model railroading. I explained after two years I’m still struggling with some things and terms. This video hits point on what we are looking for as to help other disabled veterans who struggle with new task. I realized a big problem is the lingo and the length of the videos as our focus doesn’t last long.
Thank you, Ron, for a thorough discussion on the types of adhesives and applications. I think I'll go back and play it again and write notes to myself on how, why, and what for use of adhesives in the near future. Best wishes and stay safe. - Dean from Minnesota
You posted some of the best explanations of each product, thanks for your help
I did it just for you, Joe. LOL. Thanks for watching.
Great reminder of how to use the best glue for various surfaces. Thanks and stay well.
*Opens with a model railroad focused dad joke - NICE
I have a shirt exactly like that. 🙃
Choosing an adhesive is key in pretty much any modeling. When I was younger, whether it was trains, model cars, or kitbash projects, my default was superglue. Definitely not what you want to choose with clear plastic though!
I was going to mention Tacky Glue and then it showed up on screen, so I won't. Oh wait... Um...
I've always been too clumsy for plastic welding.
Handy hint... if you want to matte a photo, rubber cement is a good way to go. Apply to both the matte and the back of the photo, let dry, put them together, wipe away any excess. It's good for situations where spray matte might be a bit too messy.
Hi Christopher. Always good to hear from you, and thanks for the photo matte tip.
An excellent discussion on adhesives! Sounded like a science class :) Well done!
Ron, I add my thanks to the others for this video. It explains a lot and even an old-timer like me learned something
Hi Gary. Thanks for watching.
Excellent presentation, Sir!
Ron, thank you for taking the time to clear up a lot of info about adhesives. Learned a lot about this topic. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Excellent info and guidelines Ron thanks for sharing!
Great video. Lots of great information. I usually don't have the attention span to watch a video this long but you did a good job presenting the information and kept me interested and learning. You must have been a teacher in another life. Lol.
Stay well. 👍
Hi William. Thanks for the encouraging words. In fact, training is a big part of my day job, so yes, I have some experience there.
Great video Ron! Question what's the best, correct, and strongest adhesive for gluing plastic n scale code 55 track to wood?
I use latex caulk.
Thanks Ron, i have been pondering this for a while. you cleared up many of my questions.
Pliobond is also a thermosetting polymeric adhesive. When gluing metal to wood the curing process can be hastened and driven to completion by slightly heating (e.g., with a soldering iron or clothing iron) the metal. Excellent, practical video. Kennedy
Good info. Thanks. See, a whole college course.
Discovered double faced carpet as an adhesive is o ften helpful.
Great video!!! Contains lot's of useful information! Thanks!
I’m repairing my whistle on the Lionel master chief polar express, what type of glue would be best to a plastic to metal contact?
For dissimilar materials like that, I would use CA.
Very thorough discussion. Thanks!
Another great video Ron, I have learned a lot from watching you. One situation that I continue to struggle with is constructing white metal kits. The only ones I’ve attempted are the pieces included with DPM kits. They never stay together or look horrible when they do and disassemble them almost immediately. Any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Bill. I wish I had a magic solution for you. IMHO white metal is the worst. The best solution is probably epoxy, but it is hard to mix and work with for very small applications like you are probably refering to. I typically use CA for detail parts, but it is imperfect at best.
I was hoping you would give a demo. On some adhesives. I want to glue L.E.D. bulbs to my N scale bachmann F 7 units.
But afraid Crazy glue or even model glue will discolor my lenses. What glue will work to glue L.E.D. to train lens without damaging them ?
Great video on glues Ron,,,thanks for sharing ,,,,Ken
Very thorough & very helpful! Thanks!
You really held my attention with this one, Ron. Great stuff. See ya next time.
Thanks, Norman. Good to see you.
What are your thoughts on using hot glue gun sticks? I've used it to secure track and roadbed to the layout by using a small amount every few inches. Seems to be holding firm and it can be separated without difficulty (which is really nice for those of us who make mistakes!).
Personally it wouldn't be my first choice for that appliation, but I do use hot glue for building scenery base material.
I'm putting train under Christmas tree and was just looking into temporary adhesives for keeping tracks together. I was seeing all these fancy ones and a few minutes ago I thought about just Elmer's and then hot glue. Can't believe nobody mentioned it but I just decided in my head that would be easiest to apply and remove. Then I saw your comment lol
I liked the video Ron and some great examples and uses there.
Mike
is super glue recommended? for walthers model train kids as a example tank car kit?
For.plastic I would use a solvent cement like MicroMark Same Stuff or Plastruct Bondene. Super Glue tends to get brittle and break over time.
Do u know what the little connectors at the end of just plug lighting is called? Keep up the great videos
I don't know. You will have to contact Woodland Scenics for that information.
Don't use original Gorilla glue to glue track to cork roadbed. It took me hours to remove the excess from a 3 foot section. Lesson learned!
I have been thinking about this topic a lot recently as I have amassed quite a few different adhesive options. When you posted your solvent video last week, I was wondering if this was in the works.
I recently become aware of your channel. I really enjoyed your video about engineeriing your limited work space. Some lessons there I could certainly learn from. Thanks for the comment.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks for checking out my channel.
What kind of glue is good for track and be removable?
For EASY remival ou need a water solluable glue like Elmer's School Glue, but it will tend to soften when applying other glues for ballast and scenery, so be careful.
What do you use to transfer MEK from source container to the container you use it from? Plastic straw would dissolve?
A small metal funnel.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks. Thought of funnel but mine are all plastic. D'OH! metal funnel .
There is a lot of Glue talk here but there isn't any sort of application guide. I'm trying to determine what adhesive would be best for assembling a new Walthers kit I purchased.
Any of the solvent cements I talked about would work well--Plastruct Plastic Weld, MEK, etc.
Great presentation
Ron, an excellent summary of adhesives. We have an embarrassment of riches when putting our models together!
Hi Ron...
I'm on my Windows 10 desktop computer using Google Chrome to watch your videos. The attached screenshot of your web page shows what I see on my screen. There's only the one description line and no "show more".
Regards...Dave Heggblom
Great video, one question using glue for models, I have the one you have for plastic or styrene but I have seen one that uses a needle type application is this same stuff just not sure thanks
I don't know one that comes with such an applicator on the bottle, but Flex-I-File makes the Touch-N-Flow applicator which I use and love. Here is a link: amzn.to/2AFz0Sw
I have never been able to find your "Amazon Pick of the Week" link that you mention in all of your videos. Where do I find it?
Depends on if you are viewing on a computer or phone. On a computer, look for the description right below the video. It only shows about 3 lines, then says "show more." Click the show more. It is about the 5th green check marked item. On a phone next to the title below the video there is a little down arrow. Click that to expand the description and again it is the 5th green checkmark.
@@RonsTrainsNThings btw, your picks aren't in your Adhesives amazon page; should they be?
Whats best for plastic models
Some type of solvent cement. Which one depends on what type of plastic. For most applications I use MED with a few small scraps of styrene melted into it for filler. You can also buy commercial equivalents like Micro-Mark Same Stuff or Plast-I-Weld.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Can solvent cement which are joined after they have dried for 20 to 30 minutes can serve the same purpose for plastic models
I been stuck on this video all day long
😂😂😂
Will you be posting videos of actual layout construction on this channel any longer, or is that content only for those who pay the subscription fee?
In the last month I've made videos about installing track feeders, forced perspective for scenery, reviewed 2 or 3 different locomotives, plus. In that same time I've made 1 video for the paid side. I'm working on a weathering project, a structure model, and another review in the next month.
@@RonsTrainsNThings my comment wasn't meant to be snarky. Sorry you took it that way. Thanks for the response.
My appologies. I jumped to conclusions. I seem to get a lot of snarky about channel memberships.
HI ya Ron.Good job on a sticky subject..
Hi Ron!
Thx for all of your videos. I learned a lot.
On this particular one I'll ask you something:
I'm looking for an adhesive based on or made of (a kind) of *transparent* silicone gel used to seal joints in bathrooms for example, that I can dilute simply with IsoPropanolAlcohol (IPA) because IPA is evaporating so fast and - that would be a big advantage - is and will be so much flexible when it's dried.
Do you have any idea?
Greetrings from
Beste Grüße aus
dem
Salzburger Land
*Austria*
Stephan
*The Railroader from the Coast*
*Der-Kueste-N-Bahner*
👉 “ *May the Trains run with you!* ” 😎
👉 “ *Möge die Bahn mit Dir fahren!* ” 😎
Hi Stephan. Clear silicone is readily available, but how to dilute it is a question I have never pondered. You might ask someone at your local hardware store as silicone is a commond building sealant.
A lot of great info in that video. Anyone have a favorite or best for gluing extruded foam an white styrofoam? Cheers to all 🍻Thanks!
My favorite by far is Styro Goo. It bonds quickly, cures despite lack of oxygen between the foam, and is cuttable with hot wire tools. Here is a link: hotwirefoamfactory.com/-028SG--StyroGoo-.html?keep_https=yes
Many Big words used... :)
👍
Early!!
👍👍👍