How To Install Track Feeders On Your Model Railroad
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มี.ค. 2020
- In this video I show you how to install track feeders on your model railroad layout. Get your trak connected to your DC or DCC system in a way that is electrically reliable.
✅ Visit our sponsor, Midwest Model Railroad: www.midwestmodelrr.com
✅ Want to get more RTNT? Consider becoming a channel member. Click the “Join” button or use this link to learn more: / @ronstrainsnthings
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
✅ RTNT Amazon Page: www.amazon.com/shop/ronstrain...
✅ Amazon Pick of the Week: soldering station - amzn.to/2Ja2Jnr
Flux - amzn.to/2wtYWyH
Red Wire - amzn.to/2UrdXcw
Black Wire - amzn.to/3bgSVnM
Suitcase Connectors - amzn.to/2J8Nhbu
Wire Stripper - amzn.to/3apOffr
(NOTE: The above are Amazon affiliate links: I make a small commission from any purchased made through these links.)
✅ Save 10% on all regularly priced items from Micro-Mark: The Small Tool Specialists. Use promo code RTRAINS upon checkout. www.micromark.com/
(NOTE: The above link is an affiliate link. I receive a commission from all purchases made through this link. Exclusions: This offer cannot be combined with any other offers, not applicable to Pre-Orders, Digitrax, SoundTraxx, or 3D items, applicable to merchandise price only, shipping and handling fees not included, gift cards, or eGift certificates.)
✅ Find fantastic foam cutting tools and adhesives from Hot Wire Foam Factory at: hotwirefoamfactory.com/home.p...
(NOTE: The above link is an affiliate link. I make a small commission from any purchases made through this link.)
✅ Get RTNT merch at the RTNT Company Store: teespring.com/stores/rtnt-com...
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
✅Take advantage of the rewards for your support of Ron's Trains N Things through Patreon:
/ ronstrainnthings
✅ You can also invest in this channel through PayPal:
www.paypal.me/RonsTrainsNThings
Your support is greatly appreciated. Thank You.
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
🔸 Contact me via email: ronstrainsnthings@gmail.com
🔸 Join the Ron's Railfans community on Facebook: / ronsrailfans
🔸 Connect on Instagram: / rtrains
🔸 For more about my layout, the Texas Colorado & Western Railway, check out / tcwry
If you like what you see give it a "like" 👍, subscribe 🔔, comment 💬 below, and share it on your social media and model railroad forums.
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽
Credits:
🤘 Theme Song: "Extremes" by the Lemming Shepherds
Exzel Music Publishing (freemusicpublicdomain.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
🎵 CGI Snake by Chris Zabriskie is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: chriszabriskie.com/divider/
Artist: chriszabriskie.com/
👂 Sound E ffects: LoudTVStatice.wav from Freesound.org by 18hiltc / @rc_swift1772
Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 3.0
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
TVStaticSound by KLEBER KGF from Freesound.org
Public Domain
Equipment:
🔷 Canon Rebel T6i DSLR--amzn.to/2EEGYeO
🔷 Canon Rebel T7i DSLR--amzn.to/32SeFDp
🔷 MX-2000 tripod
🔷 Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam--amzn.to/2CaBzfd
🔷 Excelvan 2kW Lighting Kit--amzn.to/2EcHZrH
🔷 Blue Snowball Ice Microphone--amzn.to/2Cb1raG
🔷 HitFilm 4 Express--hitfilm.com/express
🔷 Audacity--www.audacityteam.org/
🔷 The Sun--en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sun - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
See how I set up electrical short management districts in this video: th-cam.com/video/eK_3xcoDXNk/w-d-xo.html
Great tutorial, it took me a long time to figure this out. You can see on my layout my transition from bad to okay.
Very informative - taught me a lot on feeder wires, in just a few minutes
Thanks for the tips.
I’ve used those suitcases many times in the automotive industry, they work fine, easy to use as long as you don’t have vibration issues or use them under a vehicle, they need to be sealed with tape or liquid tape worked well too. I’ve used the under my layout as well, glad I’m not the only one 👍🏻😊
Another great video Ron!!! Your videos are so well done. You always give lots of helpful information. Keep up the great work!!!
Thanks, Jason. You do pretty well yourself, so that means a lot.
What a coincidence you posted this video Ron, I'm starting to do my drop feeders. Thank you for all the helpful tips you provide for all of us.
I'm glad to be of help.
Very helpful: clear and concise with demonstration of each step.
Excellent teaching video! I am getting back into model railroading after a 30 year or sum break and had to switch to N scale due to space constraints. I racked my head trying do figure out how to do this like I did before on my HO “layout”. Besides a couple oops from the drill chuck touching the rail, my wife had a very hard time finding my feeders. Thank you for your excellent videos! Stay safe and healthy...
This is pretty much how I do it, except I try to drop the feeders in the middle of the track for even power distribution to both ends. Great video. Cheers from Canada.
Nicely done Ron, appreciate seeing two methods of connecting under the layout. And a big shout-out to your sponsor, Midwest Model Railroads. I've now used then on a couple of orders and they are fantastic. Great prices, shipping, and customer service. I'm a fan! Hope all of you are safe ... be well.
Thanks for watching, Clifford. I'm glad you've had a good experience with MMRR as well. I will pass that along. I hope you are safe a well.
I think I have a better understanding on wiring my layout. I have to watch your videos over and over. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am building a three revel layout.
Excellent! Starting wiring my lsyout this week and this clearly shows how!
Let me know how it goes.
awesome video Ron thanks for sharing
Rodney
Hi, Ron. I enjoy watching your videos. I would like to make a couple suggestions from my own experience. When soldering to the track, use a smaller diameter solder as this will help prevent too much solder flowing and getting on top of the rails. I use different size solder for the size of the job being done. I love soldering all my wire joints, so instead of electrical tape, I found that liquid tape works great for wiring projects such as this. If you have a jar of it on the shelf for too long & it gets too thick to use, it can be brought back to good use by mixing in some lacquer thinner, or just buy another small bottle of liquid tape as it is not expensive.
Thanks for all of your helpful tips. I'll be watching you again... Soon. Dennis.
Hi this is Jeff I just want to say I love your channel.
Ron - well done on how to install the feeder wires, I like the little hook that rests on the rail. Solid wire is better and easier to work with in the small gauges too. Its amazing how simple the process is, but many folks find this to be a real challenge and not damaging the rail in the process. Thanks for the walk through. Skol! Ron//
Hi, Ron. Yes, I think many people sturggle with feeders because they lack good soldering skills which, in part, result in poorly maintained and thus poorly working soldering irons. They sturggle to get solder to flow while melting ties below.
This is a great video. Thank you.
Thanks Ron, I am wiring my N Scale currently. This past weekend I tried my first solder track attempt. Failed miserably and wondered what I was going to do. I watched this video on Monday and I tried again following your steps, and first wire worked perfectly! (ok, little less solder next time)...but I did a second, even better. I really appreciate these videos, especially now when I am stuck at home and can't get to the train store or a fellow modeler for help. Thanks again Ron. Tim L.
Hi, Tim. I am so glad you found the video helpful. Stories like yours are why I keep making these videos. Thanks for your comment.
Nice job Ron. I’m not quite there yet, I’m still layout the routes on my layout. Thanx.
Thanks for this video. I just came up from my train room (basement) as I finished laying my sub road bed today and tomorrow I'm starting to wire my first bit of track for my layout. As it is, soldering and electrical work are areas I don't have the most confidence in but I guess that will change. Thanks again!
Take your time. Practice makes perfect. You confidence will grow as you do it.
The mirror idea is excellent!
Yes, simple but highly effective solution to an otherwise difficult working situation.
This couldn’t have come at a better time! I’ve been looking for some good wiring advice so I can finish up some layout work while in quarantine. 😅 Thanks!
Good plan. Good luck with it.
Great video Ron. Just the info I was looking for.
I know it's a year or so old, and maybe someone has already mentioned this but if you're worried about damaging the rail when drilling for your drops you can slide a small piece of rubber hose or a couple o-rings over the bit to keep the chuck from hitting the rail if it drops too quickly.
Great video Ron. Very informative 💯👍🏿
Ron, cut small strips of black tap and wrap it up on the top of the drill bit - use it as a buffer so as to not hurt the rails when you drill through the bench work; fabricating 101 Bro. Oh, and the MG Chemicals Liquid Rosin Flux you use is the Bomb! Having fixed radios in the military, I can say, "This is the Kind!" It is a little hard to clean if you go crazy with it - so don't use much as it don't take much. Clean beforehand what you will be soldiering with alcohol, and your soldier that you will be using. Store it out of UV lite - it comes in a dark bottle for a reason. That stuff is Great!
Tin Lizzy? Thanks Ron for another great video.
Thank you for sharing
A useful and practical video with effective and articulate narration. Thank you. 🙂
I'd like to offer a few rail soldering tips that I have found effective for neat working and final appearance. It can be a little slower but really IS effective and worth it, imo.
1. A finer tipped soldering iron at high temperature offers very significantly more accurate precision, far less risk of ugly, excess solder and less risk of touching and melting ties - especially in N-Gauge.
2. I always use paste flux rather than liquid. It can't be spilled. It's FAR easier to see than liquid, and this automatically enables more precisely controlled quantity and minimizes unwanted flow of both flux and solder.
3. I always tin all wire ends before attaching them to each other or to anything else and I ensure no excess solder is present. If there is excess, I get rid of it before proceeding further!
4. I always tin the rail with MINIMUM solder before attaching anything to it. VERY LITTLE is actually needed.
Using this combination of carefully pre-tinned rail and pre-tinned wire, together with an absolutely minimally tinned fine iron, ensures there is never any need for additional solder when making the final union because the correct, minimal amounts are already present and placed exactly where needed.
A short but FIRM press of iron tip, directly on the wire, in turn pressed against the rail, almost instantly melts the solder on both, which become as one in a split second.
Back away, breathe a well-earned sigh of relief/satisfaction and this element of the job is completed - easily and neatly. This disciplined technique of MINIMAL SOLDER, in the right places, at all stages really does reduce excess solder mess and risk of melted ties.
Hi Ron very nice video specifically the hand made tools you have showed us are great 🎯👍
Thanks. I'm glad you found them helpful.
Great tips Ron!
Thanks.
Nice video on how to make a simple track connection, I like to use a nickel over the rails to fill in the scratches too but like the stainless steel washer too...thanks for sharing....Jack 👍
Hi, Jack. Yes, the nickle wold work too...but you knew that. LOL. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Ron , Very well done my friend.
Mike
Thanks, Mike. I've been following your various videos through this isolation phase. Looks like you are finding plenty to keep yourself busy and "out of trouble." LOL.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I sure am , how about you all?
Nice video Ron. Like showing a couple of different methods, - God knows that there are many others as well. One suggestion though: in the direct soldering of the drops to the secondary buss, I would also suggest that you not solder them to each sub-buss directly across from each other, but to space those stripped portions of the sub-buss about an inch further apart (just an extra degree of safety).
I really like your Videos Ron,
Sincerely,
Reg
I really like your videos
Stay safe Ron.
You too. Thanks.
Great info Ron, stay safe. Bob
Thanks, Bob. You do the same.
Great video! I'm definitely going to check out your other soldering/tinning video.
Can I make a suggestion? If you're camera has the option, turn off the Auto Focus and use Manual Focus. It will prevent the focus from hunting so much when things move into/out of frame.
nice video and nice tips
great video, but question. What did you use at the switch ends, standard or insulated joiners?
Ron ! After spending 23 years in the automotive electronics industry ,I have seen those suite case connectors become intermittent, Nothing worse than trying to track down an intermittent electrical issue caused by one of these connectors. It will literally drive you crazy. After all that effort soldering feeders to the track followed by crawling under the benchwork and using those connectors makes no sense to me. I feel all Model railroaders need to learn to solder and avoid those connectors . Really enjoy your channel, You certainly share some really good information with us..
This is why I share multiple ways of doing this, however, understand that automobiles have several factors that come into play that are not factors in model railroads--oil and grease, road grime, extreme hot and cold temperatures, vibration, etc. That said, I've used suitcase connectors for 20 years because they are so fast and I have never had one fail.
Great video. I learned a lot… especially the hint with the mirror. Could you please tell me the name of your wire strippers? I’ve been looking for a good pair and can’t find one. Thank you in advance. Eric.
Nice how to do it!
Midwest Model RR INFO : I ordered a model last week and after they shipped it I got an E-mail from them letting me know that they charged me too much for shipping and were refunding my card $3.50 ! I couldn't believe it and it is now my Go To shop for almost everything N scale !
I'm glad to hearvyou had a positive experience. 👍🏼👍🏼
Hey Ron would it be easier to vacuum the debris after one drills so as to make it easier to see the holes?
Ron, do you have a reason for not using Rosin Core Solder? Thank you.
Hey, Ron, my dad taught me to put some tape near the chuck or a piece of wire insulation over the drill bit to stop the chuck from hitting the part your drilling. So as not to damage anything.
That is a great tip. Thanks.
Ron nice job with the demonstration. my only suggestion would come at the end of your video. when soldering feeders to the bus wires, you may want to stagger those wires your strip. just so they dont swing and touch each other. another good method is covering them with liquid electrical tape. Thanks for sharing. I did incorporate your Sub bus and bulb protection into my layout once i saw you do it. Thanks for that.
Hi, Rick. I did mention the importance of covering the joints with some sort of electrical tape. Staggering the joints is a good idea. I was limited here by the shot of the camera. Glad you found the buld trick helpful. I think it works like a charm.
Okhi Ron how aboutDoing this with ksto unitrack a lot of us use . Thank you!
So I am very new to model railroading, when I start wiring how often do i need to have feeders?
Ron or whoever else would like to comment, I am new to DCC and railroading. My question is when do you need to install feeders? After a certain amount of track footage or right from the start of your lay out? Currently I have the Bachmann Commander DCC set as a starting point.
Hey Ron great video, Question so basically Three sets of feeders around every turn out? Also put the feeders where each part of the turnout begins... Lastly so will need a frog juicer as well or should I be go going back and forth with the three feeder setup?
Those 3/32" drill bits are just a bit short! If you wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end of the chuck that'll help to protect the track when you go through too far. And, I offset my feeders by a couple of ties, not sure why I do that but for some reason I think its a good idea.
Ah, you are using code 80 track. Code 55 can be a bit finickier to work with as the web is smaller.
My method is to tin the rail and wire first. Then, I can use one hand to position and hold the wire and just touch the wire to the rail. There is enough solder from the tinning that you'll create a nice joint with not too much solder. Then do the "tug" test to make sure.
Emery board from your local drugstore to clean the solder off the top of the rail, they come in different grits and more gentle than the file (IMHO).
Although, my preference overall is to solder my feeders to the bottom of the rail prior to laying the rail.
Is 22AWG the standard wire size used for general layout work?
I'm just about to start wiring track.
Yes, they make a crimping tool but honestly I went back to my pliers as it was SO much easier, for me at lease.
Nice job as always. Another option for protecting the "T" connection is to use shrink tubing once completed. Rubbing the still-warm iron quickly over the tubing will shrink it nicely. Of course, one has to remember sliding the tubing on first...don't ask me how I know that (a borrowed line from MR editor). Does the common side need as many connections as the hot side? Thanks, Ron.
Hi, Daniel. Heat shrink tubing would be ideal, but when installing feeders on a bus wire there is no way to get the tubing on the bus. As for your other question, there is not hot side/ground side in this application as DCC is and AC application and sends code packets to the decoders. Even in a DC application, I would pair all of my feeders as rail joints can be electrically unreliable.
Great video, but you never mention wattage for the soldering pencil. I will use HO scale Atlas Flex track. Is a 23 watt hot enough, or use a 33 watt? 45 would probably be too hot.
Ron which pliers you use in this video
I solder the topside feeders to the underside of rail joiners at the workbench before installing the track. If I want to change my layout and reuse my track I figure this would make that process easier. I join them to the bus under the layout using crimp connectors and screw terminal strips. I use 22 gauge stranded wire for feeders. (N scale) Just my method.
Do you wire every piece of track?
Hi Ron great video tip, will check your videos on wiring, do you have a video on turn outs, I am not about these
In fact I have three. Here are the links:
th-cam.com/video/Ebq-tL44kEU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/8RZQDxaLh4E/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/AvQKuGwD8KY/w-d-xo.html
Hi Ron thanks need to understand turnouts
Also you set up amazon.ca , I live in Canada and can’t buy some things on amazon.com, was checking your links for the connectors, can’t ship to Canada also really enjoy your videos
If you take a plastic bottle cap and drill a hole through it, place it on your rail and drill the hole using the bottle cap as a buffer it wont damage your track if the drill chuck drops down when drilling. The chuck will hit the cap and not the rail.
Great information I have been putting off this project due to lack of knowledge. Do you have any leads to the bulk wire that you have? I’m only finding stranded. Also the best place to purchase the suitcase connectors? I would like to go that route. Thank you again for finally getting me off to the races.
Here are some Amazon links to all 3 items:
Red wire: amzn.to/2UQQ5PZ
Black wire: amzn.to/3dxRVh6
Suitcase connetors: amzn.to/2QNXSN8
Thank you very much Ron!!
Those are some nifty wire strippers there. What kind are they?
Good video , but I am one of the solder only people. I trust it better especially in my job . Also Midwest is great for online orders and they shipped my Peco turnouts quick this week.
That is exactly why I show multiple ways. Yes, Midwest pride themselves at fast shipping. Their city is under a stay home order, so they are down to just a couple family members running online orders only unless they are told they cannot do that. That makes fast shipping even more impressive.
Great video. One question: I have planned one track that has it feeder wires at least 4’6” from the bus wire. Is it too far away? Will it lose power?
You shouldn't have problems with 1 wire this long. I wouldn't want to plan them all that long.
@@RonsTrainsNThings can you connect a feeder wire from a building to a near by track?
I'm curious if my bus wire is stranded and my feeder wire in solid, will these still work? The feeder wire is 18 and my bus is 14.
Ron when will we see some trains running on that beautiful pike?
I can't answer that exactly, but soon.
How many of these do you need to do as I’m thinking of doing a o gauge layout in the garden do you wire each track part that connects together so all tracks are live in new to doing this thanks
With soldered rail Inuse a set of feeders on every other joint. If track joints are not soldered the I would do every joint.
Very nice video. I have noticed that some people use one of the built in switches on the Tortoise Machine to power the frog on the turnout. But they never said where to attach the power. Can you tell me? Or does wiring the track all around the turnout eliminate the necessity to power the frog. All of my turnout are DCC compatible. Thank you.
Great question. In my case, I am using Insulfrog turnouts and not using switch machines, so this wiring application does not apply.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Okay. Thank you .
Great video Ron. may I ask who the manufacturer of the wire strippers is?
I've had mine for years. I don't know the mfgr and its not printed on the tool, but here is a link to a pair my neighbor has that he loves and work exactly like mine. Plus they happen to be on discount right now.
amzn.to/2yajdKf
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks Ron for the prompt reply I'll have a look and see if they have them up here in Canada. stay safe eh!
What is your track laid on? Im extending my layout and I purchased foam boards where I am then going to use cork road bed to lay my track on. And I don't know if that is the best idea.
What you describe should work fine. I lay my track on cork roadbed on plywood, but I have also done this on foam with good results. In the video I'm working in a yard so it is on sheet cork.
Hey Ron this is Ron how about using Terminal Strips would they work for someone that has a soldering iron but can't easily use it for me that's what I've got on my D.M.R.R is Terminal strips I'm using 4 along with 18 Gauge solid bell wire I then hook short KATO power Rail Joiners to the terminal using nylon Ring connectors from Mise Wire Products out of Kingman Kansas they make the Best nylon connectors in the business they use an extended thin metal sleeve In the there connectors that helps hold the wire in the connector as it grips around the outer plastic jacket.. I've also used the Suitcase connectors from 3M & there is a tool that Micro Mark sells for 80 bucks that puts the correct pressure on the suitcase but if your on a budget the pliers are much easier to acquire..
I'd like to add: I've also seen on the Tube by a Layout Builder New connectors that can pierce the Wire aka the Buss wire a cap slips over the wire you then tighten it and it makes the connection then on the other end of the connector you'd terminate your feeder.. these sound like a very cool connector and for someone that is uneasy at soldering underneath a Layout especially from possible burns they'd worth the money.!
But as Always Mr Ron from another Ron Great Video.. Let's see some more and what is that Tin Lizzy😆 Take Care be Safe.!
So I am watching the video on installing "feeders" and all my layout is DC only...so I'm thinking that because I run a "block" system I don't install feeders around the DC layout on the "control rail" (+) otherwise it seems to me in negates the block control. Do you agree?
Yes, that is exactly right.
I have yto brails but no have no train engine with it
Ah yes, unless one loaded up the buss with pieces of shrink, but the buss might look like the sidings above, and you might have lots stranded. The suitcases work best and I do have many to get me going building DC blocks.
Ron great video. I have a plastic roadbed on my track, can i still solder the wires on there? I was thinking i will have to lift track out of roadbed first.
I have never worked with plastic roadbed, but if you work quickly I don't THINK the plastic will melt that quickly, so you should be ok. That being said, test it on a spare piece of track before you commit to it on your layout.
Where did you get the tool that spreads insulation at 22:52 in the video?
Here is a link: amzn.to/390tdEy
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thank you for the quick response. I am using your methods. Thanks again!
Ron. I’m confused. I have feeder wires at both ends of my peco turnouts. Red for positive, black for negative. I bring my red feeder wires through to a brass connector unit and screw in the red wires. Where in hell does the red wire go from there to the controller. I don’t want blocks. I’m finding it hard enough to understand all this. Where does the black wire go also from the track. Then into where. I have DC a Gaugemaster Q 4 track controller.
For me the worst thing is glue track bed and tracks.. The slowest thing to do.... Thanks on good videos here on your channel.. Can you make video on weathering track.. Airbrush and normal... We are in isolation and we have time to throw away.. I have airbrush, and acrilic colors but i don't have thinner.. Any advice how to do it with water or alchohol... The shops here in Croatia are closed for next 3 weeks
Usually don't mix alcohol with acrylics. Use distilled water and maybe a flow improver. If they are Tamiya, use their thinner.
I did a track weathering video about a year ago. Here is a link: th-cam.com/video/HYspNRlTCVg/w-d-xo.html
Try soldering the bottom of the rail. Much cleaner.
Ron, do you use isolation track connectors? This where I get confused with DCC. I would think it would cause a short or malfunctioning of the electrical system.
Depends on the type of turnout being used. Maybe Ron can do a Video on types of turnouts electrically speaking. The DCC Guy has a video on types.
The turnout video idea is a good idea, however, if I understand correctly, I don't think that was your question. I thing what your are asking is do I insulate different track sections between electrical blocks. The answer is yes, I insulate both rails at the break between electrical blocks. As for turnouts, you either need to use insulfrog turnouts (as I do currently) or insulate the frog and power it with some sort of switch (eg. Tortoise, et al).
I prefer dc power i.dont have dcc
Stagger AND insulate your solderjoints under the layout and ALWAYS pretin wire before soldering...
I prefer to lay about 1/4" of wire along the groove on the outside of the track. You'll end up with a blob of solder whatever you do, so better to just try and hide them with scenery. I may be proven wrong by your experience, but the butt joints look like they could fail from the vibration of trains going by...
I have never had one fail.
(WARNING) do not solder while directly underneath the wire whilst on you're back, one drip in the eye, and you can lose that eye.
That is certainly good advise.
What the heck’s a feeder? Was hoping you would explain it.
A feeder wire feeds electricity from the main bus wire to the track.
@@RonsTrainsNThings thank you for the fast reply! did you happen to make a video explaining it 🤞?
Rails but no engine
Why do Americans always pronounce soldering as sodering. There is an L in there. If you had just sold your house you would not say I have just sod my house, but correctly as SOLD.
Like many words, there are different correct pronunciations in UK vs US, both recognized by standard dictionaries. If I walked around in the US using UK pronunciations for such words when I am clearly not British I would look like a complete idiot. There are also silent "L"s in would, could, should, walk, talk, half, calf, salmon, and a host of other words. The question is, as common as both pronunciations are, why are people still making a big deal about it?
Suitcase connectors?????? Noooooooo!
I thought the same thing at first but then Ron explained the direct soldering too. It's all kind of a balance right? Saving some energy up front might cost you down the road and putting in some extra effort up front might save you time down the road. It's all in how we choose to enjoy the hobby.