@@bmicona yep, i did too. I lightly sanded the commutator on my car's starter, installed the new brushes, new solenoid and cleaned everything. It still works well 3 years later.
Sir this is a great video. Very informative on what the inside of a starter works and what it consists of. I just took the starter apart on my mercury outboard motor and cleaned it. Thanks for a to the point video.
Hello my friend. I have a similar motor (Μitsuba SM14). You made a very detailed video that others dont show in bigger videos. I still didnt understand though where is the correct position of the brown insulation ring in 7:21 - 7:25 i have a diagram of my motor that only shows the 2 metal rings but not the brown insulation material ring. Please if you still remember tell me the correct position of this ring. Thanks. edit: i saw again and i think you put the brown ring beteewn the 2 metal rings, right?
Hi YES at 7:21 NO at 7:36 It's nice that you noticed that, at 7:36 it's a mistake But not a mistake that has meaning. And as I will explain now: The ring from the brown material should be between two metal rings. So it possible as you see at 7:21 (between two metal rings) and at 7:33 (between two metal rings) And yes, in my case there are three rings, and there is the front ring at 7:33 That means four rings together (3 + the one at the front) These rings do not have a separate catalog number, but all four are shown in the exploded view. In my Honda's catalog parts there is no special explanation about a ring that is made of a different material (the brown ring), I first saw that brown ring when I disassembled the motor myself.
when this was being tested which setting did you use 200 Ohms mode or continuity mode because I've successfully replaced my brushes from this video but obviously want to test it first before putting it back on my bike
Hey. If there is electrical conductivity or there is no electrical conductivity, I tested it with the function that has a diode drawing (On my multimeter dial that function is at 6 o'clock), and the multimeter I used also had a speaker that makes a "beep" sound when there is conductivity. But in the video the original sound is muted so you do not hear that "beep". Look at: 3:24 4:55 6:50
תמיר היקר רציתי לשאול מדוע טרחת אם קנית גם חדש בסוף, זה הצחיק אותי ! כמו כן רציתי לשאול האם סטארטר, ועל הדרך אשאל גם על סלנואיד, הם שניהם רכיבים אוניברסליים או שצריך לקנות ספציפי לדגם הכלי (אצלי ג'וירייד 125) ? תודה על הסרטון המדהים הזה בכל אופן, מעריץ גדול של הערוץ
שקד, אני שמח שאתה צוחק. יש הרבה הומור סמוי בסרטים שלי, מי שמבין וצוחק זה טוב. אני חושב שעיקר המנויים שלי כאן בעבור סוג של בילוי כמו לצפות בטלוויזיה. לגבי הסטרטר הנוסף, אתה כמובן צודק. כמעט. אני מסביר: לדעתי הטעות הקלסית, אם אפשר לומר ככה, שרבים נוטים לחשוב שעשה-זאת-בעצמך חוסך כסף. האמת תלוי איך מתמחרים את עלות הלימוד? כי מחיר הלימוד יקר, גם ארון כלי עבודה לא תמיד יהיה זול...אז יותר חוסכים? אולי יותר נהנים? או שניהם? אסור להסתכן בנושאים של בטיחות, ואם לא הולך צריך לשים את האגו בצד ולפנות למוסך מורשה. מי שלא מסוגל שלא יתחיל לתקן לבד. במוסך המכונאי תמיד יכול לשלוף חלק משומש לצורך בדיקה, החובבים אין להם זמינות כזאת לחלקים. לפעמים אני מזמין חלק ואז לא עושה בו שימוש, מזמין רק כדי לא להפריע לשתף העבודה למקרה שהזדקק לו. אמרתי, מדובר בתחביב שעולה כסף. סלונואיד גנרי, שעומד במפרט החשמלי, אבל לא עומד במפרט של מידות וגודל מכני, לפעמים ידרוש התאמות ולפעמים לא. זה עניין של סוג החיבורים, מאיכן הם נכנסים, וגם עניין הגודל הפיזי. אם יש לך מפרט חשמלי מלא, ומפרט מכני מלא, אתה בהחלט יכול לחפש לפיו תחליפים. אין כאן בלעדיות להונדה. לגבי הסטרטר, צריך את התושבות המכניות שמתאימות למנוע. לבנות מתאמים מכניים זה בדרך כלל נחשב ליותר קשה (צריך יכולת עיבוד מכני, וכו). אבל תחליפים שמתאימים לדגם אופנוע מסוים יש, עם תושבות מסויימות, זה יש, כגון: התחליף שאני הזמנתי מחברת "MAX". גם הסטרטר הוא גנרי, אין כאן פטנטים מיוחדים, ורוב הסיכוי שהמוצר התחליפי לא יפחת מאיכות המוצר המקורי. יש תחליפים זולים, ויש תחליפים משופרים שיכולים להיות יקרים יותר מהמקור. מי שמתקשה בקריאת מפרטים, ואין לו ידע רב בהנדסת מכונות, מומלץ לו להצמד לחלקים המקוריים של הונדה. הפיתוי ללכת על תחליפי גדול כאשר פערי המחיר גדולים. תודה על המילים היפות, תמשיך ליהנות מצפיה בערוץ, רוב רכיבות טובות ובטוחות.
my starter motor works to start the bike but makes a high pitch whining sound. ive taken it out. it works and the brushes are fine. could it be the starter clutch that needs replacing?
Thanks for sharing. It is very difficult to give online advice, it is a little like trying to learn swimming by written explanations. If you are ready to play a game as a hobby, you will upload a short video to TH-cam describing the problem. Adjusting Expectations: It is NOT always easy to see the problem, NOT even on video. Then you'll attach a link to your video here. Good luck.
Great vid, you’re very adept with this XR. My XR125 is currently not starting, not even turning over or igniting. Would it be worth removing the starter and cleaning it? Thanks, I could do with any advice.
The chance for a problem at the starter is low, the battery is more likely to fail, that's the statistics. Always start with the simple and cheap things. The side stend is folded? Is there fuel in the fuel tank? Shake the motorcycle from side to side, do you hear the movement of fuel in the tank? Is the battery powerful enough to run the fuel pump? Do you hear the pump buzzing in the ON position switch? Even without a battery at all, when pushing the motorcycle and shifting into first gear, the engine starting? (and with the Kickstarter)?
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thanks for getting back to me. The bike has had issues in that I let it get wet one night and then it struggled to start. I don’t hear the fuel pump engaging upon turning the key, and the only way which is will start is by running it into second (no kick, it’s an L4). I do know that there is a power drain because my battery never lasts long and I have two spares which I charge and swap. Could this be complicated by the indicators which are currently not working? Thank you for any advice🙏
@@joshturner3263 If you manage to start the engine it is an encouraging condition, a good condition. In such a situation the motor only operates on voltage from the coils, the coils do not have enough power to operate the indicators. See here: th-cam.com/video/d9PcDVDjBK8/w-d-xo.html Try to measure if there is a current leak, for that measurement see here: th-cam.com/video/erj0A4pQLFY/w-d-xo.html Chances are your two batteries are out of order, and all you need to do is replace the battery. And maybe I'm wrong??? Just please, sharing my experience is one thing, the responsibility for using the information is on you. If you have difficulty solving the problem, please consult a qualified mechanic in your area. Thank you very much.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling I’ve charged a lead battery and tried that today... it started! I know there is still a leak from the blown indicators, so when I get the sprockets changed I’ll get that checked as well. Thank you for your help and expertise! Joshua
You smeared Vaseline on connectors before bolting them up. Vaseline doesn’t conduct electricity!! Do the connectors up clean and only then smear them with Vaseline. I’m not convinced the dark marking in the commutator is a special coating to reduce wear - it’s merely carbon build up. If the manufacturer wanted a wear resistant coating on the commutator, they would coat the whole thing, not just a small patch directly under the brushes. I don’t know for sure but suspect you are wrong on this
My INNOVA Motorcycling I’ve been reading further and electrical contacts corrode - apply the Vaseline after you connect them and not before. The dark coating on the commutator is copper oxide from the copper in the commutator and not a special coating. It is perfectly in order to clean it off and definitely not a special coating
Sir binaklas ko yung starter motor ng honda wave ko pag baklas ko basag na yung magnet niya napapalitan pa yung magnet or need na na palitan ng bagong starter motor
The magnet is permanently attached to the metal cylinder which is the central part of the motor housing. The gluing is done with a special glue. This central part, the "cylinder", does not have a separate Catalog Number, and if it broken then a NEW Starting-Motor needs to be ordered. It may be possible to gluing what is broken, but these are usually special and expensive adhesives that will cost you more than a NEW Starting-Motor . Also not sure the gluing will help. Buy a NEW Starting-Motor, sometimes an Aftermarket Part("MAX") is good and cheaper, see here: 8:32 [Google-Translate mula sa Ingles tungo sa Filipino] Ang pang-akit ay permanenteng nakakabit sa silindro ng metal na kung saan ay ang gitnang bahagi ng pabahay ng motor. Ang pagdikit ay tapos na sa isang espesyal na pandikit. Ang gitnang bahagi na ito, ang "silindro", ay walang hiwalay na Numero ng Catalog, at kung nasira ito pagkatapos ay isang BAGONG Simula-Motor ay kailangang mag-order. Maaaring posible na idikit kung ano ang nasira, ngunit kadalasan ito ay mga espesyal at mamahaling mga adhesive na mas malaki ang gastos sa iyo kaysa sa isang BAGONG Simulang-Motor. Hindi rin sigurado na makakatulong ang gluing. Bumili ng isang BAGONG Simula-Motor, kung minsan ang isang Aftermarket Part ay mabuti at mas mura, tingnan dito:
My starter has the three shims- one is fiber the other two are metal (attracted to magnet). Why are they different and How should they orient on the armature?.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Thanks- that makes sense if the role of the fiber shim is to restrict any current from either side. I appreciate the quick response. thank you!
The fiber does not make electrical insulation, because the electricity in any case could passes through the axis. The fiber functions as a bearing, a type of friction bearing, whose function is to take axial loads.
I got a question completely off subject my passport only start up if idle is set really high an gets to much gas if not jets are stock an carb is clean
In motorcycles with 4 cylinders engine there are 4 carburetor that should be tuned with Carburetor Synchronizer and Adjustment Tool Kit - Vacuum Gauge. Each carburetor should be tuned separately. In each carburetor there are usually two screws: main jet adjustment screw, and idle mixture screw. As far as I understand, your carburetors came out of tuned. And maybe the problem is more complex, or it's not about carburetors at all. Please go to a qualified mechanic who will see the problem. If you like Doing-It-Yourself like me, you might find an interesting in the following video: th-cam.com/video/eplUH9hXa8c/w-d-xo.html
@@thomaslockley945 Okay. If so, it's probably much simpler. Maybe you're not using the choke properly? And maybe the carburetor is not adjusted right, and then you don't need any special tool except a flat screwdriver. Maybe your jet syringe is not suitable, it should fit to the altitud where you living, there is a differences between sea level or in the high mountains. Maybe the problem is somewhere else? Please contact a qualified mechanic, it seems to me that he will easily solve your problem. Thank you very much.
Yes it is possible. The O-RING area should be coverd and sealed well so as the hinge and bearing area. Also, covering the positive pole, the connecting flangs for not to damage the electrical conductivity of the negative pole. The two black cylindrical stripes are sealing rubber, should coverd them too. Can the process be completed safely, it much depends on your acquired skill? How much would you be prepared to pay for it? How much time and patience do you have? These are questions that only you can answer them.
No, just clean and do not sand, because it will destroy the special coating. Cleaning with 70% alcohol is fine. Just recently I opened the starter of the CBR250R after 66,000km. I found a lot of powder dust from the abrasion of the brushes, and of course I cleaned it and greasing the contacts with electrically conductive grease (Vaseline). The brushes were in excellent condition almost like new (in terms of length), and there were slight abrasion marks on the rotor. I can not measure how much this treatment prolongs the life of the starter, but it is a hobby, and I do not pay a mechanic's salary, so I did it. Today the brushes are not made from a major component of charcoal as was customary in the past, but are made from complex materials that are much more durable and probably do not need any special maintenance. As I understand it, traditionally Honda still presents an explosion drawing of the starter and allows the purchase of brushes as part of the list of spare parts. To me it seems almost unnecessary.
היי. אני לא זוכר, אולי כדי לראות שהוא מסתובב טוב ולא תקוע, לראות שהוא תקין באופן עקרוני. בדיקה כללית. בדיקות חשובות אחרת לא נמצאות בסירטון הזה בכלל. למשל צריך לבדוק כאשר מנוע הסטרטר מחובר למנוע, צריך לבדוק נפילת מתח על ההדקים של המצבר בזמן ההתנעה. אם המתח במצבר תקין, מעל 12.4V שזה תנאי בסיסי, ואז מודדים בנוסף אם המתח בזמן התנעה נופל מתחת ל 10V. מצבר שלא מסוגל להיטען למתח מעל 12.4V, או מצבר שאינו מחזיק מתח מעל 10V בזמן התנעה, הוא מצבר מקולקל. ואם כבר מחזיקים מד מתח אז בודקים גם שיש הטענה תקינה: מתח מעל 13.2 וולט בטורים של סרק. ולא יותר מ 15.5 וולט בסל"ד 5000 ומעלה. עינבר שים לב שהסרטים שלי מיועדים למי שיודע, או לצורך ידע כללי ובידור. אני לא מעודד לעשה זאת בעצמך, ההפך, אני נגד. הם לא קורס ללימוד רציני. אני לא פתחתי קורס במכונאות, זאת גם לא הכוונה שלי. אני נהנה לשתף, זה יותר בידורי, תחביב שלי. לכן אל תניח שכל מה שאני כותב זה ככה וככה. אני משתף. מה שאנשים עושים במידע זה על אחריותם הבלעדית. מכונאות דורשת הרבה מאוד ידע,, כלי עבודה ויכולות שיש במוסך מורשה, ולבד זה ממש לא מומלץ ויכול להסתיים באסון. אני רק אומר שככה וככה, משתף. כל אחד עושה את השיקולים שלו.
@@carlovelasco6343 4:36 Hi sir. It's been a long time. I only have drills in millimeter increments, starting with 2 mm, then 3, 4, etc... As far as I remember, it is an M3 screw so the drill was 2 mm in diameter. The motor body is made of aluminum, so a new and longer bolt than the original was able to penetrate the aluminum and produce a good grip(with help of wd-40).
As a mechanic student it is somewhat difficult to follow through the very quick video pace you set here. Please, next time slow it down some. I made prints to kind help for that. Thank you for this starter maintenance class!
@@1212CRMD Hi sir. It's a hobby. I loved making quick clips accompanied by a musical soundtrack. At the beginning of my journey on TH-cam, I had the idea of producing relatively short content. Today they opened new platforms for short videos, 60min. Today I would edit it differently, yes, less fast, more longer, without music at all, just with the original background noises.
Ano kayang problema ng starter motor ng xrm ko boss original naman ung pinapalit ko ba carbon brush... good for 1 month working lang tapos di na naman nagana... chinecheck ko ulit carbon ok pa naman di pa naman pudpod lahat
The problem for me was somewhere else. The coal brush in my starter was just fine. So now I have two starters, the "MAX" starter and the originel of "Honda". The elusive problem I had was the battery, I had a weak battery.
You're right, there was no need to replace the starter. I was looking for a problem that would appear and then disappear, so I said to myself: "I will replace...and then I will see what happens". The technique of replacing parts to rule out problems is an accepted technique in the industry.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thank you sir,her in phillippines like your motorcycle hondawave 125 have a carborator.i hope someday you can upload thank you sir more power
According to pictures on the internet ,I looked for: "Honda XR200 Starter Motor", it has a different adapter (Different location for the screws). I do not know what about the other dimensions. It does not seem to fit. It is best that you contact and asking someone that understand and can see your model with their own eyes. Sometimes even models with the same name only from different production series, different years, can be different. good luck.
th-cam.com/video/M4RTBs1ik2M/w-d-xo.html It seems that you push the kick starter and then the gear rotates, isn't that abnormal because this gear mustn't rotate so that the starter doesn't rotate with the engine ?!
You are absolutely right👍👍👍 There is a one-way clutch, when there is the small resistance of the electric motor it really does not rotate. th-cam.com/video/VXwEpMLnFHg/w-d-xo.html
You are absolutely right. Probably your did a wrong translation. I didn't wrote "water resistant coating" 4:51, I wrote "'wear resistant coating. Wear coatink like Anti-abrasion coating. NOT wear like "Water"', whitch these are two different words. Anyway thank you so much for your attention.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling even still, that is not a wear resistant coating! that is dirt and it needs cleaning off!, with fine sand paper.......... you should also clean out the gaps between each part of the commutator.
@@firstnamelastname-lr2vf NO NO NO No, it's NOT dirt, it's a chocolate brown coating. It's a coating that improves abrasion resistance. If you take it down with sandpaper it just won't be there, not critical, but why ruin a Special Coating which comes to help you?
Cant even admit when your WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG??? Can you read? If you know how to do something so well but your trolling around other videos to talk crap your a TROLL TROLL TROLL TROLL... So much nonsense on the internet ... LOL
wow, this video is so clean ang precise..new sub here love your work sir, it shows real effort to create this kind of video..
Thanks!👍
Thank you. I just learned that the dark marks on the commutator should not be sanded. That's the first thing i would've done =)
My Suzuki service manual for my bike specified sanding it with 400 grit to clean it…
@@bmicona yep, i did too. I lightly sanded the commutator on my car's starter, installed the new brushes, new solenoid and cleaned everything. It still works well 3 years later.
Sir this is a great video. Very informative on what the inside of a starter works and what it consists of. I just took the starter apart on my mercury outboard motor and cleaned it. Thanks for a to the point video.
Good work....the BEST part was showing two strategies for how to block the brushes in order to reassemble.
I have watched a lot of tutorial/instructional videos on youtube, this is the best one. Well done dude.....
Thank you sir🎉♥️👍
great video , it helped me replacing my brushes in my Yamaha r6 starter motor
Cool vid. Also applies to the Mistuba SM-14 starter motor used on my 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250. Thanks for the info.
Impressive video that i've ever watched than other's, keep it up sir, newbies here..
thank you very much sir.
Hello my friend.
I have a similar motor (Μitsuba SM14).
You made a very detailed video that others dont show in bigger videos.
I still didnt understand though where is the correct position of the brown insulation ring in 7:21 - 7:25
i have a diagram of my motor that only shows the 2 metal rings but not the brown insulation material ring.
Please if you still remember tell me the correct position of this ring. Thanks.
edit: i saw again and i think you put the brown ring beteewn the 2 metal rings, right?
Hi
YES at
7:21
NO at
7:36
It's nice that you noticed that, at
7:36
it's a mistake
But not a mistake that has meaning. And as I will explain now:
The ring from the brown material should be between two metal rings.
So it possible as you see at
7:21
(between two metal rings)
and at
7:33
(between two metal rings)
And yes, in my case there are three rings,
and there is the front ring at
7:33
That means four rings together (3 + the one at the front)
These rings do not have a separate catalog number, but all four are shown in the exploded view.
In my Honda's catalog parts there is no special explanation about a ring that is made of a different material (the brown ring), I first saw that brown ring when I disassembled the motor myself.
when this was being tested which setting did you use 200 Ohms mode or continuity mode because I've successfully replaced my brushes from this video but obviously want to test it first before putting it back on my bike
Hey. If there is electrical conductivity or there is no electrical conductivity, I tested it with the function that has a diode drawing (On my multimeter dial that function is at 6 o'clock), and the multimeter I used also had a speaker that makes a "beep" sound when there is conductivity.
But in the video the original sound is muted so you do not hear that "beep".
Look at:
3:24
4:55
6:50
Very good engineer ❤
salamat sir sa tutorial mo ganyang kasi motor ko ayaw umikot baka palitin na din carbon brush..salamat
תמיר היקר רציתי לשאול מדוע טרחת אם קנית גם חדש בסוף, זה הצחיק אותי ! כמו כן רציתי לשאול האם סטארטר, ועל הדרך אשאל גם על סלנואיד, הם שניהם רכיבים אוניברסליים או שצריך לקנות ספציפי לדגם הכלי (אצלי ג'וירייד 125) ? תודה על הסרטון המדהים הזה בכל אופן, מעריץ גדול של הערוץ
שקד, אני שמח שאתה צוחק. יש הרבה הומור סמוי בסרטים שלי, מי שמבין וצוחק זה טוב. אני חושב שעיקר המנויים שלי כאן בעבור סוג של בילוי כמו לצפות בטלוויזיה.
לגבי הסטרטר הנוסף, אתה כמובן צודק. כמעט. אני מסביר: לדעתי הטעות הקלסית, אם אפשר לומר ככה, שרבים נוטים לחשוב שעשה-זאת-בעצמך חוסך כסף. האמת תלוי איך מתמחרים את עלות הלימוד? כי מחיר הלימוד יקר, גם ארון כלי עבודה לא תמיד יהיה זול...אז יותר חוסכים? אולי יותר נהנים? או שניהם? אסור להסתכן בנושאים של בטיחות, ואם לא הולך צריך לשים את האגו בצד ולפנות למוסך מורשה. מי שלא מסוגל שלא יתחיל לתקן לבד. במוסך המכונאי תמיד יכול לשלוף חלק משומש לצורך בדיקה, החובבים אין להם זמינות כזאת לחלקים. לפעמים אני מזמין חלק ואז לא עושה בו שימוש, מזמין רק כדי לא להפריע לשתף העבודה למקרה שהזדקק לו. אמרתי, מדובר בתחביב שעולה כסף.
סלונואיד גנרי, שעומד במפרט החשמלי, אבל לא עומד במפרט של מידות וגודל מכני, לפעמים ידרוש התאמות ולפעמים לא. זה עניין של סוג החיבורים, מאיכן הם נכנסים, וגם עניין הגודל הפיזי. אם יש לך מפרט חשמלי מלא, ומפרט מכני מלא, אתה בהחלט יכול לחפש לפיו תחליפים. אין כאן בלעדיות להונדה.
לגבי הסטרטר, צריך את התושבות המכניות שמתאימות למנוע. לבנות מתאמים מכניים זה בדרך כלל נחשב ליותר קשה (צריך יכולת עיבוד מכני, וכו). אבל תחליפים שמתאימים לדגם אופנוע מסוים יש, עם תושבות מסויימות, זה יש, כגון: התחליף שאני הזמנתי מחברת "MAX". גם הסטרטר הוא גנרי, אין כאן פטנטים מיוחדים, ורוב הסיכוי שהמוצר התחליפי לא יפחת מאיכות המוצר המקורי. יש תחליפים זולים, ויש תחליפים משופרים שיכולים להיות יקרים יותר מהמקור. מי שמתקשה בקריאת מפרטים, ואין לו ידע רב בהנדסת מכונות, מומלץ לו להצמד לחלקים המקוריים של הונדה. הפיתוי ללכת על תחליפי גדול כאשר פערי המחיר גדולים.
תודה על המילים היפות, תמשיך ליהנות מצפיה בערוץ, רוב רכיבות טובות ובטוחות.
my starter motor works to start the bike but makes a high pitch whining sound. ive taken it out. it works and the brushes are fine. could it be the starter clutch that needs replacing?
Thanks for sharing. It is very difficult to give online advice, it is a little like trying to learn swimming by written explanations. If you are ready to play a game as a hobby, you will upload a short video to TH-cam describing the problem. Adjusting Expectations: It is NOT always easy to see the problem, NOT even on video. Then you'll attach a link to your video here. Good luck.
Great vid, you’re very adept with this XR. My XR125 is currently not starting, not even turning over or igniting. Would it be worth removing the starter and cleaning it? Thanks, I could do with any advice.
The chance for a problem at the starter is low, the battery is more likely to fail, that's the statistics. Always start with the simple and cheap things.
The side stend is folded?
Is there fuel in the fuel tank? Shake the motorcycle from side to side, do you hear the movement of fuel in the tank?
Is the battery powerful enough to run the fuel pump? Do you hear the pump buzzing in the ON position switch?
Even without a battery at all, when pushing the motorcycle and shifting into first gear, the engine starting? (and with the Kickstarter)?
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thanks for getting back to me.
The bike has had issues in that I let it get wet one night and then it struggled to start. I don’t hear the fuel pump engaging upon turning the key, and the only way which is will start is by running it into second (no kick, it’s an L4).
I do know that there is a power drain because my battery never lasts long and I have two spares which I charge and swap. Could this be complicated by the indicators which are currently not working?
Thank you for any advice🙏
@@joshturner3263
If you manage to start the engine it is an encouraging condition, a good condition.
In such a situation the motor only operates on voltage from the coils, the coils do not have enough power to operate the indicators. See here:
th-cam.com/video/d9PcDVDjBK8/w-d-xo.html
Try to measure if there is a current leak, for that measurement see here:
th-cam.com/video/erj0A4pQLFY/w-d-xo.html
Chances are your two batteries are out of order, and all you need to do is replace the battery. And maybe I'm wrong???
Just please, sharing my experience is one thing, the responsibility for using the information is on you. If you have difficulty solving the problem, please consult a qualified mechanic in your area. Thank you very much.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling I’ve charged a lead battery and tried that today... it started! I know there is still a leak from the blown indicators, so when I get the sprockets changed I’ll get that checked as well. Thank you for your help and expertise!
Joshua
Best tutorial vid +like
Excellent job 👍 😎 👍.
You smeared Vaseline on connectors before bolting them up. Vaseline doesn’t conduct electricity!! Do the connectors up clean and only then smear them with Vaseline.
I’m not convinced the dark marking in the commutator is a special coating to reduce wear - it’s merely carbon build up. If the manufacturer wanted a wear resistant coating on the commutator, they would coat the whole thing, not just a small patch directly under the brushes.
I don’t know for sure but suspect you are wrong on this
YES
The dark marking in the commutator is a special coating to reduce wear.
Vaseline is to prevent rust.
My INNOVA Motorcycling
I’ve been reading further and electrical contacts corrode - apply the Vaseline after you connect them and not before.
The dark coating on the commutator is copper oxide from the copper in the commutator and not a special coating. It is perfectly in order to clean it off and definitely not a special coating
Sir binaklas ko yung starter motor ng honda wave ko pag baklas ko basag na yung magnet niya napapalitan pa yung magnet or need na na palitan ng bagong starter motor
The magnet is permanently attached to the metal cylinder which is the central part of the motor housing. The gluing is done with a special glue. This central part, the "cylinder", does not have a separate Catalog Number, and if it broken then a NEW Starting-Motor needs to be ordered. It may be possible to gluing what is broken, but these are usually special and expensive adhesives that will cost you more than a NEW Starting-Motor . Also not sure the gluing will help. Buy a NEW Starting-Motor, sometimes an Aftermarket Part("MAX") is good and cheaper, see here:
8:32
[Google-Translate mula sa Ingles tungo sa Filipino]
Ang pang-akit ay permanenteng nakakabit sa silindro ng metal na kung saan ay ang gitnang bahagi ng pabahay ng motor. Ang pagdikit ay tapos na sa isang espesyal na pandikit. Ang gitnang bahagi na ito, ang "silindro", ay walang hiwalay na Numero ng Catalog, at kung nasira ito pagkatapos ay isang BAGONG Simula-Motor ay kailangang mag-order. Maaaring posible na idikit kung ano ang nasira, ngunit kadalasan ito ay mga espesyal at mamahaling mga adhesive na mas malaki ang gastos sa iyo kaysa sa isang BAGONG Simulang-Motor. Hindi rin sigurado na makakatulong ang gluing. Bumili ng isang BAGONG Simula-Motor, kung minsan ang isang Aftermarket Part ay mabuti at mas mura, tingnan dito:
Thanks sir for the advice
very good simple videos.
My starter has the three shims- one is fiber the other two are metal (attracted to magnet). Why are they different and How should they orient on the armature?.
03:17
metal-fiber-metal
07:18
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Thanks- that makes sense if the role of the fiber shim is to restrict any current from either side. I appreciate the quick response.
thank you!
The fiber does not make electrical insulation, because the electricity in any case could passes through the axis. The fiber functions as a bearing, a type of friction bearing, whose function is to take axial loads.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Good to know- thank you!!
I got a question completely off subject my passport only start up if idle is set really high an gets to much gas if not jets are stock an carb is clean
In motorcycles with 4 cylinders engine there are 4 carburetor that should be tuned with Carburetor Synchronizer and Adjustment Tool Kit - Vacuum Gauge. Each carburetor should be tuned separately. In each carburetor there are usually two screws: main jet adjustment screw, and idle mixture screw. As far as I understand, your carburetors came out of tuned.
And maybe the problem is more complex, or it's not about carburetors at all. Please go to a qualified mechanic who will see the problem.
If you like Doing-It-Yourself like me, you might find an interesting in the following video:
th-cam.com/video/eplUH9hXa8c/w-d-xo.html
This is my honda passport c70 it only has one carb and one cylinder an idle adjustment and fuel screw
@@thomaslockley945 Okay. If so, it's probably much simpler. Maybe you're not using the choke properly? And maybe the carburetor is not adjusted right, and then you don't need any special tool except a flat screwdriver. Maybe your jet syringe is not suitable, it should fit to the altitud where you living, there is a differences between sea level or in the high mountains. Maybe the problem is somewhere else? Please contact a qualified mechanic, it seems to me that he will easily solve your problem. Thank you very much.
I want to remove my starter and paint it can I do it safely if I cover up the part that goes back kn
Yes it is possible. The O-RING area should be coverd and sealed well so as the hinge and bearing area. Also, covering the positive pole, the connecting flangs for not to damage the electrical conductivity of the negative pole. The two black cylindrical stripes are sealing rubber, should coverd them too.
Can the process be completed safely, it much depends on your acquired skill? How much would you be prepared to pay for it? How much time and patience do you have? These are questions that only you can answer them.
yeahhh im just gonna buy a new starter, thanks
@My Innova Motorcycling .. can you please do some FI diagnostics and some diagnostic codes ? Thaks and more power !
" If the surface is dirty or burnt , resurface with emery cloth , or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper" Honda Service Workshop Manual
No, just clean and do not sand, because it will destroy the special coating. Cleaning with 70% alcohol is fine. Just recently I opened the starter of the CBR250R after 66,000km. I found a lot of powder dust from the abrasion of the brushes, and of course I cleaned it and greasing the contacts with electrically conductive grease (Vaseline).
The brushes were in excellent condition almost like new (in terms of length), and there were slight abrasion marks on the rotor. I can not measure how much this treatment prolongs the life of the starter, but it is a hobby, and I do not pay a mechanic's salary, so I did it.
Today the brushes are not made from a major component of charcoal as was customary in the past, but are made from complex materials that are much more durable and probably do not need any special maintenance.
As I understand it, traditionally Honda still presents an explosion drawing of the starter and allows the purchase of brushes as part of the list of spare parts. To me it seems almost unnecessary.
תמיר אתה יכול להסביר לי את העקרון של בדיקת הסטרטר כפי שביצעת עם החוט האדום והמצבר?
היי. אני לא זוכר, אולי כדי לראות שהוא מסתובב טוב ולא תקוע, לראות שהוא תקין באופן עקרוני. בדיקה כללית. בדיקות חשובות אחרת לא נמצאות בסירטון הזה בכלל. למשל צריך לבדוק כאשר מנוע הסטרטר מחובר למנוע, צריך לבדוק נפילת מתח על ההדקים של המצבר בזמן ההתנעה. אם המתח במצבר תקין, מעל 12.4V שזה תנאי בסיסי, ואז מודדים בנוסף אם המתח בזמן התנעה נופל מתחת ל 10V. מצבר שלא מסוגל להיטען למתח מעל 12.4V, או מצבר שאינו מחזיק מתח מעל 10V בזמן התנעה, הוא מצבר מקולקל. ואם כבר מחזיקים מד מתח אז בודקים גם שיש הטענה תקינה: מתח מעל 13.2 וולט בטורים של סרק. ולא יותר מ 15.5 וולט בסל"ד 5000 ומעלה. עינבר שים לב שהסרטים שלי מיועדים למי שיודע, או לצורך ידע כללי ובידור. אני לא מעודד לעשה זאת בעצמך, ההפך, אני נגד. הם לא קורס ללימוד רציני. אני לא פתחתי קורס במכונאות, זאת גם לא הכוונה שלי. אני נהנה לשתף, זה יותר בידורי, תחביב שלי. לכן אל תניח שכל מה שאני כותב זה ככה וככה. אני משתף. מה שאנשים עושים במידע זה על אחריותם הבלעדית. מכונאות דורשת הרבה מאוד ידע,, כלי עבודה ויכולות שיש במוסך מורשה, ולבד זה ממש לא מומלץ ויכול להסתיים באסון. אני רק אומר שככה וככה, משתף. כל אחד עושה את השיקולים שלו.
what drill size did you use?
@@carlovelasco6343
4:36
Hi sir. It's been a long time. I only have drills in millimeter increments, starting with 2 mm, then 3, 4, etc... As far as I remember, it is an M3 screw so the drill was 2 mm in diameter. The motor body is made of aluminum, so a new and longer bolt than the original was able to penetrate the aluminum and produce a good grip(with help of wd-40).
fantastic simple as that
As a mechanic student it is somewhat difficult to follow through the very quick video pace you set here. Please, next time slow it down some. I made prints to kind help for that. Thank you for this starter maintenance class!
@@1212CRMD
Hi sir. It's a hobby. I loved making quick clips accompanied by a musical soundtrack. At the beginning of my journey on TH-cam, I had the idea of producing relatively short content. Today they opened new platforms for short videos, 60min. Today I would edit it differently, yes, less fast, more longer, without music at all, just with the original background noises.
אלוף! הסרטון מאוד עזר.
Ano kayang problema ng starter motor ng xrm ko boss original naman ung pinapalit ko ba carbon brush... good for 1 month working lang tapos di na naman nagana... chinecheck ko ulit carbon ok pa naman di pa naman pudpod lahat
The problem for me was somewhere else. The coal brush in my starter was just fine. So now I have two starters, the "MAX" starter and the originel of "Honda". The elusive problem I had was the battery, I had a weak battery.
Why change the brushes if the starter spins round when linked to a battery.
You're right, there was no need to replace the starter. I was looking for a problem that would appear and then disappear, so I said to myself: "I will replace...and then I will see what happens". The technique of replacing parts to rule out problems is an accepted technique in the industry.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Mine won't start on the button only the kickstarter, just trying process of elimination.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Taken the starter motor off and decided to strip it down and guess what there was a lot of engine oil in it 😢
@@stevepowell4946
Maybe your battery is weak?
th-cam.com/video/d9PcDVDjBK8/w-d-xo.html
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Removed the starter motor and decided to open it up to check the brushes and found it to have engine oil in it.
Sir,next how to tunning the carburator,thanx.godbless
In my INNOVA I do not have a carburetor,
Your idea is good. Maybe I'll find a carburetor, and one day I'll upload a video as your good advice. Thanks.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thank you sir,her in phillippines like your motorcycle hondawave 125 have a carborator.i hope someday you can upload thank you sir more power
Tremenda edicion good job
THANKS👍
mga boss maganda ba yung mitsuba starter motor? para sa xr200?
According to pictures on the internet ,I looked for: "Honda XR200 Starter Motor", it has a different adapter (Different location for the screws). I do not know what about the other dimensions. It does not seem to fit. It is best that you contact and asking someone that understand and can see your model with their own eyes. Sometimes even models with the same name only from different production series, different years, can be different. good luck.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thank u sir
th-cam.com/video/M4RTBs1ik2M/w-d-xo.html It seems that you push the kick starter and then the gear rotates, isn't that abnormal because this gear mustn't rotate so that the starter doesn't rotate with the engine ?!
You are absolutely right👍👍👍
There is a one-way clutch, when there is the small resistance of the electric motor it really does not rotate.
th-cam.com/video/VXwEpMLnFHg/w-d-xo.html
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Thank you so much
Special water resistant coating on the commutator? WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG
so much nonsense on youtube
You are absolutely right. Probably your did a wrong translation. I didn't wrote "water resistant coating" 4:51,
I wrote "'wear resistant coating. Wear coatink like Anti-abrasion coating. NOT wear like "Water"', whitch these are two different words. Anyway thank you so much for your attention.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling even still, that is not a wear resistant coating! that is dirt and it needs cleaning off!, with fine sand paper.......... you should also clean out the gaps between each part of the commutator.
@@firstnamelastname-lr2vf NO NO NO
No, it's NOT dirt, it's a chocolate brown coating. It's a coating that improves abrasion resistance. If you take it down with sandpaper it just won't be there, not critical, but why ruin a Special Coating which comes to help you?
Cant even admit when your WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG??? Can you read? If you know how to do something so well but your trolling around other videos to talk crap your a TROLL TROLL TROLL TROLL... So much nonsense on the internet ... LOL
@@clg_pro2009 I agree with you. That's definitely carbon build up on the comutator but why so rude bro? Lol
Hi
Tite