Solved the no start issue on my 99 Acura CL 3.0 with 230K miles on it...probably go another 230K or so than I can do it again, PERFECT, can't thank you enough.
I just did this today and fixed my 1983 Suzuki GR650 starter ... I wasted money on a battery and a Solenoid, nice to have it confirmed it was just dirty. Nice Video. Thank you.
I once too my to a shop out here...I watched the guy service it in shock...He used dirty clothes to wipe it and seemed to put more sand in it...A week later it didn't work again...This time I took it out myself and made sure it was very very clean before I put it back together....15 years later it is still working and never has been touched
theoverengineer spoke too soon. Had to service mine again. The carbon wall all worn down. I took it to an electrical shop and they did change it. Good as new now.
Thanks mate, you just saved me about $200. I took my starter motor apart and found the brushes were stuck from a bit of rust. The starter motor has years of life left in it.
The Demonstration is a very clear and simple set of guidelines which is supported with proper pictures.I am confident now I can do the servicing myself on my Honda Goldwing CG125. Excellent job-Congratulations
Finally! A clear, concise, useful video of repairing a starter motor. I’m reasonably handy, but never done this particular repair before; this has made me much more confident. Thanks! I enjoyed your delivery too. 👌
Your instructions are very clear and sensible. I'm very glad I bookmarked it just for the tip about placing metal clips to hold back the springs. My new base plate springs are so much stiffer - and with the new full length brushes I would have been in a lot of trouble getting the commutator in there.
I am late to respond, sorry, didn`t mean to be rude. I am working on a video response. In short: solution a) melt it out and solder in new brush. Solution b) since new brushes are unavailable, shorten old brush by hand sanding - easy to do- down to the wire braid, shape an add-on piece by sanding that fits nicely in the brush holder bracket. The old stub will push the add-on bit in front of it. When the add-on bit gets short in use, it will fall out the holder as it is just friction-fit.
found this video and decided to clean my starter first. sure enough there was a bunch of carbon in it. cleaned it out put it back together and started like a charm. thanks for the video!
July 5, 2013 THANK YOU VERY MUCH Sir! Because of your video i've decided to DIY my starter motor. And it works! now my van is running again. Thank you.
You are brilliant. Your skill and delivery gave me calm and confidence to keep after it. I have saved myself the expense and bother of another starter and solenoid for my Harley and learned to be more patient than ever. It took me five times to get it right but I went from a 557 pound paper weight to a rockin’ machine. My thanks, Jim
A lot of Information, super clear. I will do this tonight w/ my ATV HONDA RECON 250, Thank You a lot, Freddie from Bakersfield CA, You are a life saver. GOD BLESS YOU.
Hi there,im over in the US and you can get the correct bearing and seals for anything you need from motorcycles to rollerskates.The bearing should have a group of numbers stamped into the side,most seals do too.If its from a Yamaha virago just tell the dealer the bearing number but it wont be cheap..price that is..that bearing serves many more purposes then being used only for a starter.You can also go online and just type in.. bearing then the number and bearing manufacturers will pop up....the plus side is they cost way less then if bought from a dealer.I've bought wheel bearings and seals for my 96 YZ250 dirtbike from Boca bearings i believe..was years ago,as long as you can read the number you can get the bearing/s for around $3-5..very cheap where dealers charge $15-25..rediculous.Your video was very good,easy to understand..you are a very good teacher and skilled mechanic.Thumbs up!
90TegTurbo Thanks for sharing and watching! (Some more bearing stories I shot earlier: What do bearing designation numbers mean? and Determine your bearing numbers (designation))
I don`t think one exists. I just took it apart, cleaned out with a rag, put it back together and it worked. Sometimes I need a chunk of carbon brush, longer than the one I find inside the starter. Just get one from a corded drill, car starter or some such thing and make it fit. Could be free if you ask a parts guy nicely or under $5.
Excellent video. Thanks. My grandpa would always repair his starter motors and alternators. He had a box or boxes of brushes, and probably an assortment of bearings. If he did not have the part, he would fabricate something on his lathe. Parts may have been easier to find back then. Today, we live in a replacement driven world... if your car gets old, replace it.... if your car needs a repair, replace it. It is cheaper for me to buy an entire electric razor than to buy just the screen. We are a very wasteful people.
Yup, nobody wants to stock screens or small parts. Not enough sales revenue to justify wages. I`m like your Grandpa, buy anew is the last resort. Thanks for watching.
FYI, if you do want to replace brushes in a unit similar to the one in the video, is easiest to cut the copper lead of the brush you are replacing just long enough to solder the new brush to. That way you don't have to worry about brazing or spot welding it to the housing.
I was thinking about doing this on my own and after seeing this, I KNOW that I can do it. Awesome tutorial. Very rare that tehnicial stuff like this is so thorough. Well done!
Such a brilliantly simple and informative video - even waiting and checking for the camera focus on the close-ups - something so many others don't do. I have a rebuild kit for my Triumph Tiger starter - the early ones are known to give problems from ~40,000 km - but I wasn't sure I was game to attack it. I am now. :)
Brilliant video....My starter gave up on me....yes it was full of black carbon.....yes you are right a good clean out fixes.....im back on the road....thanks for the tips.
Good work. My bike is hard to start off and on. I'm beting the starter is original. I'm so excited now, to open and take a look. New battery, and my fuel pump is fine. It has to be the starter or sprag starter clutch. My bike is electric start, so it should start on first try. I believe it's dirty. Spark plugs were a mess, so I'm guessing the starter will be too. Thanks buddy!)
Thanks buddy! Saved me a lot of hassle. The tests i conducted were pretty dodgy so i wasn't entirely confident it was malfunctioning. But i gave her a clean and and hooked her up into a proper test and she worked!
Starter on my 84 nighthawk went out yesterday and when I opened it up it was full of dry carbon. I ordered a rebuild kit and should be putting it back together next week. Thanks for the tutorial
@@theoverengineer i dont ride my bike much at all since last year, maybe 1000 miles.. Starter is giving me an issue and all the brushes are toast inside the starter. Will have to rebuild again. Can you tell me why the bushes went out so fast?
That`s called the shaft. I lube it lightly with a grease of high melting point. But lubing it is not critical since the rotor spins maybe 10 times per start, stays clean and there is no weight on it. (In comparison to your wheel axle, which runs in punishing conditions, feels every bump and spins all the time)
Great video mine was playing up when car was at operating temp. Mechanic mate thought i was mad and should buy a new (cheap chinese one he suggested ..) i didnt want to give up on my old hitachi beast turns out it was full of carbon and just needed a good clean works like new now get another 300thousand out of it i hope
wow this is old...but....really good video. my starter ticks then kicks in most of the time. i noticed its dirty and oily around the starter so hopefully ill try this. ford transit UK
This kommutator looked healthy and definitely worn. I cleaned the gaps between the copper segments with a needle. The gaps between the copper segments get somewhat filled with carbon dust from the brushes that get compacted into those gaps. Hence the need for a needle. The commutator`s copper segments also become shorter in use; there is no practical way to build them up.
Broken or not, they are still conductive and can function as long as they stay in their holders during operation. Thirdly, they might be incorrectly baked (called sintering) by the manufacturer, which would make them either crumble or cleave. Either way, a smidgeon of dirt on the commutator does not exert a force on the brushes that would break them. Since they worked flawlessly for a while, the most likely is manufacturing fault either in mixing the raw materials or in the sintering process.
it worked!!!!!! can't believe its been three months sence my comment, you just saved me 100 bucks so i can pay my insurance now lol I could't believe the black stuff that came out of it. ty very much
Given my accent, use of grammar, approach and logic, guess where I got the same ideas from, Herr Hartman. Guess before `89. Even the nails were hammered straight at home and saved. I still do it today. Just a reflex.
In engineering, bearings and bushings (plain, ball, roller or pin) get designed based on the factors mentioned above: service condition, weight on shaft and speed of rotation. The crankshaft bearings are considered critical, so they are in a permanent oil bath. The wheel bearings are important, packed full of grease, The starter`s shaft bearing is fine with minimal lubing, even if most grease melts out, some will still stay. But no need to make mess inside the starter with a ton of lube.
Clean with: clean, very used cotton t-shirt - I find it locks into its fibers the carbon particles mighty fine instead of smearing them around for minutes. Grease: I grabbed Yamalube Marine Grease hoping to resist water ingression and praying it would stay in place and not melt away from the engine`s heat. Even if it does, the starter`s bearings need only a few rotations to go at every start, not a major cause for wear on its axle bearings.
very good video! I have always wondered what it took to clean/repair a starter. the one in my car is 2 years old and isnt working. so i am goin to follow this and see what happens. thank you very much for this helpful video!
Find the starter clutch - it has a gear and spring-loaded ratcheting tabs inside that engage in one direction but not the other. Similar ideas are on a cable puller of a hand-winch where you can see the gears and tabs and reverse the direction of the rotation and engagement. Hope this helps, let me know.
Thanks for the credit, cheers! Your success is mostly due to your curiousity, your effort to find answers and some guts to undo 2-5 bolts and see what happens. Like I say in class, things don`t get done by staring at them, I am happy to see you empowered by your new skills.
My Ninja 650R was making the classic 'static' noise upon attempting to start it and it completely lost power each time as well. Thinking it was battery, charger showed good charge and was done in about 5m. Pulled tank and starter. Just cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol and shop towel and dropped it back in. My beast started up like a champ. I think the starter was shorting across the numerous filaments that had built up ... as it totally killed the power to the bike on starting and it would take some time to wake back up. Same symptoms when shorting across the relay so I knew the relay wasn't the issue. Starter for my bike was like $60 so not that big a deal, but I DID get to clean up the internals again as an added plus. Good Luck All!!!
No. Brushes only break due to some force applied in the direction of the split (either across or along, whichever direction the break lines run). Carbon is not conductive in itself, carbon dust is mixed with copper dust, pressed in a mold and baked. It is a fragile ceramic product. With four springs to watch for I take extreme care not to break them during assembly, and hand spin the rotor to ensure good fit. Even so, I tend to chip some corners.
Thanks for this great video, cristal clear explanation ! It was useful for my 94 Transalp starter rebuilt. You must be Ed China brother... or very close to him.
Ed China is a very skilled mechanic who is famous from the show called "wheeler dealers". He does the same, great job as you - explaining how things work and how can you repair them by yourself! Btw. thanks for your videos, they are very good!
My starter motor had helical springs placed inside the brush housing, and not coil springs like yours. Was a pain in the ass to put it back. Took me 3 hours. I used dental floss to compress the brushes.
In a short circuit, power goes from the red cable, attached to the pos (+) terminal, to the starter relay and to the frame. Power takes the shortest route, does not even get to the starter motor. It drains such a large amount of power from the battery, it smokes and hisses and puffs up. The starter relay must be in a rubber holder, not in contact with the frame. The red or any cable ends should not touch the frame anywhere.
It should mount and seal perfectly, its gear should mesh with the starter gear flawlessly, and it should have a big enough magnet and coil sandwich in it to generate enough torque to swing the engine to life. It is do-able, it is not very probable but possible. Do try, see what happens, draw your conclusion.
I do. Alternators do not have brushes, so there is nothing to clean out. If the alternator is not making electricity, the windings are shorting or melted somewhere - no fix for that. The magnets can also loose the strength of their magnetic field over time, new magnets. Watch out for magnetic dirt trapped inside. Take some measurements, let me know how it`s going.
I am so thankful for finding this video. Thank you for really going into depth, extremely helpful. I read in a response to a question about what type of grease you used and you indicated you had used Yamalube Marine grease, hoping it held up to the engine heat. Now that some time has past, any impressions on the marine grease?
I bought that grease pack in 2002, still 3/4 full, been using it on wheels, steering, kick stands, clutch and brake levers. All low-heat, small load applications. At the starter, 1000`s of starts later, no issues on account of bearing failure. Thanks for watching.
It is a mechanical issue, not electrical. All starters are made to engage and disengage through a thing called starter clutch. This allows rotation in one direction but not the other. This allows the starter to drive the engine, but not letting the engine drive the starter. Think bicycle. You can power the rear wheel through the pedals clockwise, brake or free counter-cw. Also when on downhill, the ground could drive the wheel faster than you could pedal - it is not happening.
Brilliant video. I just wish you'd shown us the actual cleaning and lubricating process. I'll feel much more confident opening my john deere starter......a new one is £425!! Thanks mate.
Cleaning: rotate a rag, don't break anything It's really that simple, set up in a relatively comfortable and tidy place, you can do this and SAVE £££, $$$, ... Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid very infrmtv step by step. Was replacing trany in dodge 3.3. Haynes repair manl istr's me to remove canister bolts . BIG mistake(not only one I found). rotor came out. imposs to replace into brushes w/o taking it apart. hope I can get lower cover off (live in rust belt). Thought I ruined a perfectly good starter. thanks bro.
Hey thanks for replying. Ye the shaft rotates 360 degrees by hand. When I spin it, it makes small clicking noise. I thing it's the edges of the brushes that are going into the segments of the commutator like u said. I'm not sure if that is the problem for it not working anymore.
Depending on the design as in old Harley prestolite starter I just safety wired the brushes. You can do this with two people or use a 1/2 inch hose clamp squeezed oblong to fit over brushes while you safety wire.
2hrs trying to keep the bushes out of the way!! Took 5mins after watching this! Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Same here
Solved the no start issue on my 99 Acura CL 3.0 with 230K miles on it...probably go another 230K or so than I can do it again, PERFECT, can't thank you enough.
You`re welcome
I just did this today and fixed my 1983 Suzuki GR650 starter ... I wasted money on a battery and a Solenoid, nice to have it confirmed it was just dirty. Nice Video. Thank you.
okay, Blocking the brush springs to slide the armature back into the bushing is genius!
(hearted)
I once too my to a shop out here...I watched the guy service it in shock...He used dirty clothes to wipe it and seemed to put more sand in it...A week later it didn't work again...This time I took it out myself and made sure it was very very clean before I put it back together....15 years later it is still working and never has been touched
:) wow. Yes, the difference between full failure and success is very thin indeed.Thanks for sharing.
theoverengineer spoke too soon. Had to service mine again. The carbon wall all worn down. I took it to an electrical shop and they did change it. Good as new now.
Home made carbon brush "fix": Service a starter motor: worn brushes
very good video on starter cleaning and assembly.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks mate, you just saved me about $200. I took my starter motor apart and found the brushes were stuck from a bit of rust. The starter motor has years of life left in it.
I’ll be honest u saved me over 165$. I got a 13$ rebuild kit and it cranks over like no ones buisness thank you man!
Good on you, bro!
The Demonstration is a very clear and simple set of guidelines which is supported with proper pictures.I am confident now I can do the servicing myself on my Honda Goldwing CG125.
Excellent job-Congratulations
You are absolutely bang on! I just removed my starter motor of my scooter today and tried cleaning it..Thank you very much for sharing!
Finally! A clear, concise, useful video of repairing a starter motor. I’m reasonably handy, but never done this particular repair before; this has made me much more confident. Thanks! I enjoyed your delivery too. 👌
Glad you liked it!
Your instructions are very clear and sensible.
I'm very glad I bookmarked it just for the tip about placing metal clips to hold back the springs. My new base plate springs are so much stiffer - and with the new full length brushes I would have been in a lot of trouble getting the commutator in there.
Charlie Ross Thanks for sharing and watching!
I am late to respond, sorry, didn`t mean to be rude. I am working on a video response. In short: solution a) melt it out and solder in new brush. Solution b) since new brushes are unavailable, shorten old brush by hand sanding - easy to do- down to the wire braid, shape an add-on piece by sanding that fits nicely in the brush holder bracket. The old stub will push the add-on bit in front of it. When the add-on bit gets short in use, it will fall out the holder as it is just friction-fit.
found this video and decided to clean my starter first. sure enough there was a bunch of carbon in it. cleaned it out put it back together and started like a charm. thanks for the video!
It worked!!! I did it to my 2005 suzuki sv650 I never took out the plate with the brushes on it. IT STILL WORKED!!! THANKS MAN!
July 5, 2013
THANK YOU VERY MUCH Sir! Because of your video i've decided to DIY my starter motor. And it works! now my van is running again.
Thank you.
You are brilliant. Your skill and delivery gave me calm and confidence to keep after it. I have saved myself the expense and bother of another starter and solenoid for my Harley and learned to be more patient than ever. It took me five times to get it right but I went from a 557 pound paper weight to a rockin’ machine.
My thanks,
Jim
Wow, congrats, thanks for sharing!
A lot of Information, super clear. I will do this tonight w/ my ATV HONDA RECON 250, Thank You a lot, Freddie from Bakersfield CA, You are a life saver. GOD BLESS YOU.
Hi there,im over in the US and you can get the correct bearing and seals for anything you need from motorcycles to rollerskates.The bearing should have a group of numbers stamped into the side,most seals do too.If its from a Yamaha virago just tell the dealer the bearing number but it wont be cheap..price that is..that bearing serves many more purposes then being used only for a starter.You can also go online and just type in.. bearing then the number and bearing manufacturers will pop up....the plus side is they cost way less then if bought from a dealer.I've bought wheel bearings and seals for my 96 YZ250 dirtbike from Boca bearings i believe..was years ago,as long as you can read the number you can get the bearing/s for around $3-5..very cheap where dealers charge $15-25..rediculous.Your video was very good,easy to understand..you are a very good teacher and skilled mechanic.Thumbs up!
90TegTurbo Thanks for sharing and watching! (Some more bearing stories I shot earlier: What do bearing designation numbers mean? and Determine your bearing numbers (designation))
I don`t think one exists. I just took it apart, cleaned out with a rag, put it back together and it worked. Sometimes I need a chunk of carbon brush, longer than the one I find inside the starter. Just get one from a corded drill, car starter or some such thing and make it fit. Could be free if you ask a parts guy nicely or under $5.
Excellent video. Thanks. My grandpa would always repair his starter motors and alternators. He had a box or boxes of brushes, and probably an assortment of bearings. If he did not have the part, he would fabricate something on his lathe. Parts may have been easier to find back then. Today, we live in a replacement driven world... if your car gets old, replace it.... if your car needs a repair, replace it. It is cheaper for me to buy an entire electric razor than to buy just the screen. We are a very wasteful people.
Yup, nobody wants to stock screens or small parts. Not enough sales revenue to justify wages. I`m like your Grandpa, buy anew is the last resort. Thanks for watching.
bg14
Is better
Fabricate bearings and brushes?
FYI, if you do want to replace brushes in a unit similar to the one in the video, is easiest to cut the copper lead of the brush you are replacing just long enough to solder the new brush to. That way you don't have to worry about brazing or spot welding it to the housing.
+Robert Furman Almost the same shown here: th-cam.com/video/K1sx2EYNjsI/w-d-xo.html
I was thinking about doing this on my own and after seeing this, I KNOW that I can do it. Awesome tutorial. Very rare that tehnicial stuff like this is so thorough. Well done!
Informative video. I know all about starters now. I also understand why they fail so easily especially in wet climates. Thanks for the upload.
Such a brilliantly simple and informative video - even waiting and checking for the camera focus on the close-ups - something so many others don't do.
I have a rebuild kit for my Triumph Tiger starter - the early ones are known to give problems from ~40,000 km - but I wasn't sure I was game to attack it.
I am now. :)
Cool! Glad you liked it.
High tech rotation indicator! I love it!!! Thanks for the top tip on the scrap metal!
thank you mate, my transit connect starter was full of crap, never would have thought it could get that bad. brought some new bushes all done cheers
Brilliant video....My starter gave up on me....yes it was full of black carbon.....yes you are right a good clean out fixes.....im back on the road....thanks for the tips.
for a novice like me...this video took the fear of rebuilding my starter motor right out of me...thanks!!!
Thanks for the feedback. I say, brave the elements and open the starter, see what happens. People built it, people can fix it.
Like an animal! I changed the brushes and cleaned everything up. The car starts like brand new. A 1981 toyota celica. Many thanks!
Good work. My bike is hard to start off and on. I'm beting the starter is original. I'm so excited now, to open and take a look. New battery, and my fuel pump is fine. It has to be the starter or sprag starter clutch. My bike is electric start, so it should start on first try. I believe it's dirty. Spark plugs were a mess, so I'm guessing the starter will be too. Thanks buddy!)
Thanks buddy! Saved me a lot of hassle. The tests i conducted were pretty dodgy so i wasn't entirely confident it was malfunctioning. But i gave her a clean and and hooked her up into a proper test and she worked!
Starter on my 84 nighthawk went out yesterday and when I opened it up it was full of dry carbon. I ordered a rebuild kit and should be putting it back together next week. Thanks for the tutorial
Thanks for watching.
@@theoverengineer i dont ride my bike much at all since last year, maybe 1000 miles.. Starter is giving me an issue and all the brushes are toast inside the starter. Will have to rebuild again. Can you tell me why the bushes went out so fast?
That`s called the shaft. I lube it lightly with a grease of high melting point. But lubing it is not critical since the rotor spins maybe 10 times per start, stays clean and there is no weight on it. (In comparison to your wheel axle, which runs in punishing conditions, feels every bump and spins all the time)
Great video mine was playing up when car was at operating temp. Mechanic mate thought i was mad and should buy a new (cheap chinese one he suggested ..) i didnt want to give up on my old hitachi beast turns out it was full of carbon and just needed a good clean works like new now get another 300thousand out of it i hope
Glad it helped!
Such a cute little starter! Great demonstration video.
Informative video and you sound like bane from batman
wow this is old...but....really good video. my starter ticks then kicks in most of the time. i noticed its dirty and oily around the starter so hopefully ill try this. ford transit UK
Man you saved me over a hundred dollars great video and thank you sooooo much im one step closer to getting my old 71 100 hp johnson running
This kommutator looked healthy and definitely worn. I cleaned the gaps between the copper segments with a needle. The gaps between the copper segments get somewhat filled with carbon dust from the brushes that get compacted into those gaps. Hence the need for a needle. The commutator`s copper segments also become shorter in use; there is no practical way to build them up.
I wish I would have watched this before I replaced my battery! great info, my starter works perfect now. Thanks so much for the video.
This starter is different than mine but very similar. You saved me a lot of cash
Broken or not, they are still conductive and can function as long as they stay in their holders during operation. Thirdly, they might be incorrectly baked (called sintering) by the manufacturer, which would make them either crumble or cleave. Either way, a smidgeon of dirt on the commutator does not exert a force on the brushes that would break them.
Since they worked flawlessly for a while, the most likely is manufacturing fault either in mixing the raw materials or in the sintering process.
Awesome video. My housing isn't in such good shape hopefully the internals will clean up.
i can't believe how smart u are...any chance i could just send u my starter and get it fixed...the video was amazing...!!!!
good Job man ... i did it in Germany for 20years now :-)
u re very good at rebuild the starters. Thats nice.
Thanks for watching.
Very educative & informative. I would recommend it to anyone who wants to DIY.
Thanks so much.
Thanks for commenting!
Excellent work my friend, I have really learned a thing or two here.
Glad to have helped you guys, thank you for your time and feedback.
Great video. I feel like I can do this myself now. What seemed like a foreign, mysterious task is now clear and simple. Thanks mate!
Thank you for sharing. You just saved me a few quid. Guys like you make DIY maintenance possible. Really clear video and explanation. Cheers.
That sucks! I replaced my starter two days ago. Now I know how easy it is to just clean it instead. $187 down the drain!
it worked!!!!!! can't believe its been three months sence my comment, you just saved me 100 bucks so i can pay my insurance now lol I could't believe the black stuff that came out of it. ty very much
Given my accent, use of grammar, approach and logic, guess where I got the same ideas from, Herr Hartman. Guess before `89. Even the nails were hammered straight at home and saved. I still do it today. Just a reflex.
In engineering, bearings and bushings (plain, ball, roller or pin) get designed based on the factors mentioned above: service condition, weight on shaft and speed of rotation. The crankshaft bearings are considered critical, so they are in a permanent oil bath. The wheel bearings are important, packed full of grease, The starter`s shaft bearing is fine with minimal lubing, even if most grease melts out, some will still stay. But no need to make mess inside the starter with a ton of lube.
Clean with: clean, very used cotton t-shirt - I find it locks into its fibers the carbon particles mighty fine instead of smearing them around for minutes. Grease: I grabbed Yamalube Marine Grease hoping to resist water ingression and praying it would stay in place and not melt away from the engine`s heat. Even if it does, the starter`s bearings need only a few rotations to go at every start, not a major cause for wear on its axle bearings.
very good video! I have always wondered what it took to clean/repair a starter. the one in my car is 2 years old and isnt working. so i am goin to follow this and see what happens. thank you very much for this helpful video!
Find the starter clutch - it has a gear and spring-loaded ratcheting tabs inside that engage in one direction but not the other. Similar ideas are on a cable puller of a hand-winch where you can see the gears and tabs and reverse the direction of the rotation and engagement.
Hope this helps, let me know.
theoverengineer starter
theoverengineer starter
Very helpful video. Just finished doing the same job on mine which failed to work, i'll have to wait to see the results!
Thanks for the credit, cheers!
Your success is mostly due to your curiousity, your effort to find answers and some guts to undo 2-5 bolts and see what happens. Like I say in class, things don`t get done by staring at them, I am happy to see you empowered by your new skills.
My Ninja 650R was making the classic 'static' noise upon attempting to start it and it completely lost power each time as well. Thinking it was battery, charger showed good charge and was done in about 5m. Pulled tank and starter. Just cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol and shop towel and dropped it back in. My beast started up like a champ. I think the starter was shorting across the numerous filaments that had built up ... as it totally killed the power to the bike on starting and it would take some time to wake back up. Same symptoms when shorting across the relay so I knew the relay wasn't the issue. Starter for my bike was like $60 so not that big a deal, but I DID get to clean up the internals again as an added plus. Good Luck All!!!
Hey! Good work!
Just rebuilt mine. my kit came with bushings, bearings, brushes and gaskets. Brand new starter for $15.00
That`s what I`m talking about!
Thanks for watching.
lecon chuitt
lecon chuitt please could I ask where you got yours from? Thanks
No. Brushes only break due to some force applied in the direction of the split (either across or along, whichever direction the break lines run). Carbon is not conductive in itself, carbon dust is mixed with copper dust, pressed in a mold and baked. It is a fragile ceramic product. With four springs to watch for I take extreme care not to break them during assembly, and hand spin the rotor to ensure good fit. Even so, I tend to chip some corners.
Glad to hear mate, no worries. Yup, most often all it needs is a good clean up.
Complete and intelligent description...wonderful.
Thanks for watching!
Just found your channel through this video. Awesome illustration of a starter rebuild!! I'm subbin'!!
Thanks for this great video, cristal clear explanation ! It was useful for my 94 Transalp starter rebuilt. You must be Ed China brother... or very close to him.
Thanks for watching.Who`s Ed China?
Ed China is a very skilled mechanic who is famous from the show called "wheeler dealers". He does the same, great job as you - explaining how things work and how can you repair them by yourself! Btw. thanks for your videos, they are very good!
My starter motor had helical springs placed inside the brush housing, and not coil springs like yours. Was a pain in the ass to put it back. Took me 3 hours. I used dental floss to compress the brushes.
Thanks for sharing. That dental floss is brilliant, man.
I just use two pieces of thin metal to hold them down and then I could put the starter on to it
Excellent video bruh!!! Totally used it to fix a completely rotten starter, saludos from Los Angeles!
In a short circuit, power goes from the red cable, attached to the pos (+) terminal, to the starter relay and to the frame. Power takes the shortest route, does not even get to the starter motor. It drains such a large amount of power from the battery, it smokes and hisses and puffs up. The starter relay must be in a rubber holder, not in contact with the frame. The red or any cable ends should not touch the frame anywhere.
It should mount and seal perfectly, its gear should mesh with the starter gear flawlessly, and it should have a big enough magnet and coil sandwich in it to generate enough torque to swing the engine to life. It is do-able, it is not very probable but possible. Do try, see what happens, draw your conclusion.
Very creative! Nicely done! Thanks for sharing...
Great video, I'm about to work on my VFR800 starter motor. This will help me. Thanks :)
Thank you very much for you help. It was very detailed and informative. Keep up the good work, friend!
Just want to add, if relays fail you can open the up and fix them. Usually just a cracked solder.
Great vid. I now feel confident I can take apart, and clean the starter
on my Kawasaki KZ 440 LTD. Thank you.
Thanks for watching.
I do. Alternators do not have brushes, so there is nothing to clean out. If the alternator is not making electricity, the windings are shorting or melted somewhere - no fix for that. The magnets can also loose the strength of their magnetic field over time, new magnets. Watch out for magnetic dirt trapped inside. Take some measurements, let me know how it`s going.
This is gold!
awesome video and thank you for tanking the time to make it.
I am so thankful for finding this video. Thank you for really going into depth, extremely helpful. I read in a response to a question about what type of grease you used and you indicated you had used Yamalube Marine grease, hoping it held up to the engine heat. Now that some time has past, any impressions on the marine grease?
I bought that grease pack in 2002, still 3/4 full, been using it on wheels, steering, kick stands, clutch and brake levers. All low-heat, small load applications. At the starter, 1000`s of starts later, no issues on account of bearing failure. Thanks for watching.
It is a mechanical issue, not electrical. All starters are made to engage and disengage through a thing called starter clutch. This allows rotation in one direction but not the other. This allows the starter to drive the engine, but not letting the engine drive the starter. Think bicycle. You can power the rear wheel through the pedals clockwise, brake or free counter-cw. Also when on downhill, the ground could drive the wheel faster than you could pedal - it is not happening.
i used this video to help repair my tractor's starter, not a car but it still worked. thank you for making this video.
also, your username is great =)
***** Thanks for watching
Brilliant video. I just wish you'd shown us the actual cleaning and lubricating process. I'll feel much more confident opening my john deere starter......a new one is £425!! Thanks mate.
Cleaning: rotate a rag, don't break anything
It's really that simple, set up in a relatively comfortable and tidy place, you can do this and SAVE £££, $$$, ...
Thanks for watching!
@@theoverengineer Thanks mate.........will do.👍👍
Thanks thank you very much for this video it help me to clean my Starter. Excellent money saving tips
Thanks for the vid very infrmtv step by step. Was replacing trany in dodge 3.3. Haynes repair manl istr's me to remove canister bolts . BIG mistake(not only one I found). rotor came out. imposs to replace into brushes w/o taking it apart.
hope I can get lower cover off (live in rust belt).
Thought I ruined a perfectly good starter.
thanks bro.
Excellent breakdown. This helped alot.
Good on you, bro, thanks for the feedback, enjoy the spring.
Hay this helped a lot. Thanks
nice job buddy. clear and concise.
Outstandingly well done video. Excellent job. Very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
What an excellent instructional video. Thank you for the very clear presentation.
Thanks for watching!
Hey thanks for replying. Ye the shaft rotates 360 degrees by hand. When I spin it, it makes small clicking noise. I thing it's the edges of the brushes that are going into the segments of the commutator like u said. I'm not sure if that is the problem for it not working anymore.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Get a return. Sorry to hear your troubles after all that hard work.
Great explanation and video.Thank you..
Excellent how to video. I learned a lot I didn't know. Thank you.
A really good informative video. Thank you for this. Can I ask, what would cause the starter to become lazy?
Friction does it. Bearings fail, carbon dust builds up and clogs everything
Depending on the design as in old Harley prestolite starter I just safety wired the brushes. You can do this with two people or use a 1/2 inch hose clamp squeezed oblong to fit over brushes while you safety wire.