Man i been looking at these videos because i got one 305 from a swap just setting. But out of all the Engine videos i seen you are the cleanest man you clean everything. Must repeat to a true perfectionist👊
Far be it for me to offer advice, but to a man of your talent level, but I was an auto mechanic for over 22 years. I still rebuild engines and just finished rebuilding the 305 in my '87 Chevy Pick-up truck. I believe it would have been easier to put the assembly lube in the oil pump while the cover was off. I always soak the timing chain in oil for a couple of days so oil will get under the rollers. I also never in my life had to heat up the crank gear in order to install it. You are doing a great job by the way. Thanks for the videos and take care.
Get a stroker crank for the 305, for more torque. The 307 was another engine many hated, but responds well to the stroker crank, a "RV" type cam or a bit hotter. The HiPo heads with LS valves, either 1.9 or 2.0" intake and 1.55" exh. Cam LSA should be 108° and lift around 0.480".
Those two holes between the timing chain cover and fuel pump are where the front Front engine mounts for a 55-57 Chevrolet are and two on the other side. The hole where the fuel pump is needs sealer and the bolt is very short. When replacing the fuel pump a longer bolt can be installed here to hold the fuel pump rod in place while changing pump. After change make sure to take the long bolt out and re install the short bolt. Never turn engine with long bolt in place and do not tighten much to hold rod.
Had an 87 Camaro sport coupe with a 305. Of course by 87 it was the one piece rear main seal, center bolt rocker covers, LG4. That engine loved...LOVED higher octane fuel. If I did not run Amaco 93 octane in that engine, it always had predetonation. I believe the CR in that engine was raised from the typical 8.6 to 1, to it seems over 9 to 1. I checked the timing numerous times on that engine, and it was always on good. The engine was a fine engine with the good fuel, seemed to work well. It seemed to deliver decent mileage, perhaps around 20 mpg on a road run, seemed an average engine. Never have rebuilt a 305, only 350's, a 327, and a 454, 318 Chrysler, 383 Chrysler and of course a 440. I respect you for your info and rebuilding this engine, as I know many were pulled and scrapped because many folks believed they are a substandard engine, when in reality they are not a bad street/ road engine. I would not like to try to create one to try to create 600hp, or anything, however, they are not a bad engine it seems for just running around and as long as one is working well, I would run one again for sure. Good video, and thanks for all the info here, always good for someone to have useful information available to them.
Note bolt hole in front of the block you can see the fuel pump rod through. The purpose for this thread hole is to use a bolt to screw into the fuel pump rod to lock it in olace to keep it from falling out when the engine is installed or rite side up. Use a long bolt with a nut on it for locking the bolt secure. If you ever need to remove or change the fuel pump. Just loosen the locking nut. Hand tighten the bolt into the fuel pump rod and it holds the rod to lock it secure. . When done. Back the bolt off the rod and lock the bolt secure with the locking nut.
You can just get the lash out of all. rotate 90° take the lash out or all. turn it 90° take the last out and repeat until all lash is out for a full rotation. Then set the load ur done. Dont gotta remember this or that.
Love the video’s help me a lot on building my first small block! Only concern I have do you have any movement side to side on your Pistons while they’re in the bore? I can move mine and install a filler gauge around .0002-.0003 and it gets really hard to pull the piston out when I install the filler gauge between skirt and wall
Good morning , you will always have some movement. The top of the piston is smaller than the bottom therefore it will (rock) move around in the bore. Pistons are measured for size on the skirt at a particular spot as recommended by the manufacturer. They are made this way to account for expansion etc.
Hi Jay, thanks for the great videos. I have a question regarding roller lifters in a 305 rebuild of a 91 Firebird that has 70k miles on it. I wanted to reuse the old lifters because they have no wear. I tried to keep them in perfect order to have them reinstalled on the very same spot as before. But it happened, that I mixed 3-4 lifters up when my sorting box slipped away. Can I get away with it when not all of these lifters sit in the same hole as they should? New lifters are quite expensive so I guess I would like to give it a shot. What would you do in the same situation? Thanks and greetings from Germany
Good morning , You can reuse those old roller lifters , most people I know throw the roller lifters in solvent when cleaning and reinstall randomly without issues , hydraulic flat tappet lifters have to stay in the same lifter bore as a rule. Hope this helps and have a good day!
I apologize for the late reply , Chevrolet Performance 3951600 OEM 2-piece design dipstick tube.This is the lower tube that is installed inside the block on 1979 and earlier driver side dipsticks. The upper tube is sold separately
Generally the 305 stuff is 1.72 Intake and 1.50 Exhaust however the 4 bbl engines and H.O engines could be or were 1.84 Intake and 1.50 Exhaust. Depends what you have there.
You could have a shop do it , a specialty shop/machine shop or just run an electric fuel pump. There are lot's of later model block's that are the same.
@@jaysgarage3616 I made a drill jig using a block that already had the hole for the rod. I used it on a 350 block that was TBI and the hole came out dead on the eccentric. The jig uses a 1/2" ID tube welded into a fuel pump block off plate. Make another bushing to go inside with a 1/4" ID to drill a pilot hole. Use 12" long drill bits and don't forget to drill an oil return hole.
This is a good question , many people just have their own way or opinion. Cam and lifter material have a seemingly higher failure rate (often blamed on oils , materials etc) The break in lubes are different in viscosity , I use a thicker one that I like to apply without being soaked in oil initially. Submerging lifters just to oil them? Or to allow them to start filling internally? Lifter's have an oil substance in them already so I add break in lube to the bottom and oil the body , Before engine is started oil is again added and flows through the lifter valley again providing protection on initial start The way (I Prefer) on my stuff is allow the lifter to pump up during initial run in as this has less spring pressure initially (because lifter is not pumped up yet) and will increase progressively , oil splash start's quickly before lifter is pumped up as required etc , You will hear the lifters tick and quiet down as they pump up. I encourage everyone to research and choose the way they feel is best , you will find several opinions and answers!
Man i been looking at these videos because i got one 305 from a swap just setting. But out of all the Engine videos i seen you are the cleanest man you clean everything. Must repeat to a true perfectionist👊
Haha , thanks.
Far be it for me to offer advice, but to a man of your talent level, but I was an auto mechanic for over 22 years. I still rebuild engines and just finished rebuilding the 305 in my '87 Chevy Pick-up truck. I believe it would have been easier to put the assembly lube in the oil pump while the cover was off. I always soak the timing chain in oil for a couple of days so oil will get under the rollers. I also never in my life had to heat up the crank gear in order to install it. You are doing a great job by the way. Thanks for the videos and take care.
I appreciate the feedback David!!
Get a stroker crank for the 305, for more torque. The 307 was another engine many hated, but responds well to the stroker crank, a "RV" type cam or a bit hotter. The HiPo heads with LS valves, either 1.9 or 2.0" intake and 1.55" exh. Cam LSA should be 108° and lift around 0.480".
Dang! You really know how to teach. Thank you for your in-depth videos. Lots of small "need to know" information.
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate that!
Those two holes between the timing chain cover and fuel pump are where the front Front engine mounts for a 55-57 Chevrolet are and two on the other side. The hole where the fuel pump is needs sealer and the bolt is very short. When replacing the fuel pump a longer bolt can be installed here to hold the fuel pump rod in place while changing pump. After change make sure to take the long bolt out and re install the short bolt. Never turn engine with long bolt in place and do not tighten much to hold rod.
Had an 87 Camaro sport coupe with a 305. Of course by 87 it was the one piece rear main seal, center bolt rocker covers, LG4. That engine loved...LOVED higher octane fuel. If I did not run Amaco 93 octane in that engine, it always had predetonation. I believe the CR in that engine was raised from the typical 8.6 to 1, to it seems over 9 to 1. I checked the timing numerous times on that engine, and it was always on good. The engine was a fine engine with the good fuel, seemed to work well. It seemed to deliver decent mileage, perhaps around 20 mpg on a road run, seemed an average engine. Never have rebuilt a 305, only 350's, a 327, and a 454, 318 Chrysler, 383 Chrysler and of course a 440. I respect you for your info and rebuilding this engine, as I know many were pulled and scrapped because many folks believed they are a substandard engine, when in reality they are not a bad street/ road engine. I would not like to try to create one to try to create 600hp, or anything, however, they are not a bad engine it seems for just running around and as long as one is working well, I would run one again for sure. Good video, and thanks for all the info here, always good for someone to have useful information available to them.
I had a similar experience with one as well. Thanks for the comment Jack!
Note bolt hole in front of the block you can see the fuel pump rod through. The purpose for this thread hole is to use a bolt to screw into the fuel pump rod to lock it in olace to keep it from falling out when the engine is installed or rite side up. Use a long bolt with a nut on it for locking the bolt secure. If you ever need to remove or change the fuel pump. Just loosen the locking nut. Hand tighten the bolt into the fuel pump rod and it holds the rod to lock it secure. . When done. Back the bolt off the rod and lock the bolt secure with the locking nut.
I have never used that hole for that , thanks for the comment.
35:15 min, Why not use lifters with a .020 " hole in the lifter face ? I think this would increase longevity.
Nice put a 350 350 hp cam in woke it up .
great little tip on tightening oil pan, question did u use black silicone on both sides of cork,
Thanks Robert! , I did use Ultra Black on both sides. I see your other comments and appreciate you taking the time to watch the videos!!
You can just get the lash out of all. rotate 90° take the lash out or all. turn it 90° take the last out and repeat until all lash is out for a full rotation. Then set the load ur done. Dont gotta remember this or that.
There are several ways to do it , I picked that one for the video , the way you refer to works as well.
@@jaysgarage3616classy 👌🏿
Thanks man!!@@BAYSICK831
Love the video’s help me a lot on building my first small block! Only concern I have do you have any movement side to side on your Pistons while they’re in the bore? I can move mine and install a filler gauge around .0002-.0003 and it gets really hard to pull the piston out when I install the filler gauge between skirt and wall
Good morning , you will always have some movement. The top of the piston is smaller than the bottom therefore it will (rock) move around in the bore. Pistons are measured for size on the skirt at a particular spot as recommended by the manufacturer. They are made this way to account for expansion etc.
Hi Jay, thanks for the great videos. I have a question regarding roller lifters in a 305 rebuild of a 91 Firebird that has 70k miles on it. I wanted to reuse the old lifters because they have no wear. I tried to keep them in perfect order to have them reinstalled on the very same spot as before. But it happened, that I mixed 3-4 lifters up when my sorting box slipped away. Can I get away with it when not all of these lifters sit in the same hole as they should? New lifters are quite expensive so I guess I would like to give it a shot. What would you do in the same situation? Thanks and greetings from Germany
Good morning , You can reuse those old roller lifters , most people I know throw the roller lifters in solvent when cleaning and reinstall randomly without issues , hydraulic flat tappet lifters have to stay in the same lifter bore as a rule. Hope this helps and have a good day!
@@jaysgarage3616 it does 🙏🏻
Im looking for stock 305 valves what should I look for?
Was the block machine or did you just cleaned it really good ?
The block was machined.
Were do you buy all your enginetech parts from? Like the hk100
Headache kit?
Rock Auto is where these came from.
I must maintain the stock lift cam, but the duration is aggressive.
I remember how aggressive some of those cams were with essentially stock lift.
Do you have a part number for the dipstick guide tube?
I apologize for the late reply , Chevrolet Performance 3951600
OEM 2-piece design dipstick tube.This is the lower tube that is installed inside the block on 1979 and earlier driver side dipsticks. The upper tube is sold separately
Are engine tech rebuild kits pretty good?
I really have had no issues , I would guess they box products you will find in several other brand names. So far , so good.
Im looking for stock 305 valves what size should I look for?
Generally the 305 stuff is 1.72 Intake and 1.50 Exhaust however the 4 bbl engines and H.O engines could be or were 1.84 Intake and 1.50 Exhaust. Depends what you have there.
My 305 does not have the fuel pump rod hole... Isit possible to make one?
You could have a shop do it , a specialty shop/machine shop or just run an electric fuel pump. There are lot's of later model block's that are the same.
@@jaysgarage3616 I made a drill jig using a block that already had the hole for the rod. I used it on a 350 block that was TBI and the hole came out dead on the eccentric. The jig uses a 1/2" ID tube welded into a fuel pump block off plate. Make another bushing to go inside with a 1/4" ID to drill a pilot hole. Use 12" long drill bits and don't forget to drill an oil return hole.
@@kerrybassett4468 Awesome , glad to hear that worked out for you.
What are the head specs?
If I remember they were 367450 heads that are a 1.72 1.3 or 1.5 Ex and a 58cc chamber.
why not soak your lifters in oil?
This is a good question , many people just have their own way or opinion.
Cam and lifter material have a seemingly higher failure rate (often blamed on oils , materials etc)
The break in lubes are different in viscosity , I use a thicker one that I like to apply without being soaked in oil initially.
Submerging lifters just to oil them? Or to allow them to start filling internally?
Lifter's have an oil substance in them already so I add break in lube to the bottom and oil the body ,
Before engine is started oil is again added and flows through the lifter valley again providing protection on initial start
The way (I Prefer) on my stuff is
allow the lifter to pump up during initial run in as this has less spring pressure initially (because lifter is not pumped up yet) and will increase progressively , oil splash start's quickly before lifter is pumped up as required etc , You will hear the lifters tick and quiet down as they pump up.
I encourage everyone to research and choose the way they feel is best , you will find several opinions and answers!