I love the fact you aren't scared to share information. A lot of people consider certain info to be trade secrets. Which as a machinist I can understand. But a company willing to try to TEACH others will ALWAYS bring in more customers. You're establishing trust with viewers with these videos. You're also teaching at the same time. I've only been following your channel for 2 weeks. But after watching video after video, I've learned an incredible amount. Keep up the good work. And keep the videos coming. Your knowledge gained through experience speaks for itself.
@@kalyndyck315 I can understand that completely. I can't agree more. I've been a machinist for 2 decades doing everything from automotive to aerospace. The knowledge shared speaks volumes about their experience. And this isn't the kind of info you can read in a book. It comes from LOTS of trial and error
@@highpsiguy4085 funny you say that. When I started this journey, I felt like people would theory but I just couldn’t do speak about anything but experiences.
@@headgames from someone in the same "trade/profession" I could tell immediately that you were very skilled and very knowledgeable. I believe strongly that even the average customer watching your videos has the same feeling. Even without the machining background. And that speaks volumes. I'm sure there's quite a few people that come for the content and leave as a future customer. Because you build a relationship THROUGH the content you post. And that's priceless!
I have used 90% intake, 85% exhaust seat ID for many, many years on Japanese motorcycle heads. Works very well especially with OS valves. I recommend boring the seat ID on the Serdi or something similar as all the ID's come out the same and speed up the porting process.....no need to measure, remeasure etc.
thank you! I came up with it because when I worked at Pat Musi's he called me "Big Head" because my noggin is so big. And we do heads so put it together!
Thanks Dave for another awesome video! Appreciate your willingness to share. I feel I'm old school racing a BMW m52 but curious what improvements can be made to that head? I have an old Superflow 110 flowbench that I play around with some old heads. The more I experiment the less I know lol. What I have learned is that head porting to make a performance gain is indeed a highly skilled operation. Bigger isn't necessarily better, information you often share. Even though I may have the tools and ability to do my own port work, my head will end up there at headgames! Lots of areas to spend money on a race car, it's endless. Proven results is what you guys offer, not many can do that...money well spent.
Ben thanks for the kid words! We don't port that head either. It really doesn't need it for what most do with it. A good valve job and a pocket port and it rocks.
@@headgames Thanks for the reply Dave, Good to know! Curious on your thoughts on the M54 head. Couldn't help but notice when I had both heads on the bench next to each other. Both the intake and exhaust ports on the M54 head are considerably smaller than the S52 heads. My application is road racing and its NA. Torque off the corners is important but so is straightaway HP and speed. Always a balance. It seems like BMW started focusing more on low end drivability (AKA torque) in the mid 90's as they first reduced the cross-sectional size of the S52 intake manifold as compared to the prior generation M50 manifold. A popular swap among us BMW S52 guys but I question the loss of mid-range torque, I'm thinking from loss of air speed. When the M54 came out, again another reduction but this time in the size of the ports. Does Head Games do anything with the M54 head with porting considering the factory port size of the S/M 52 head is much larger? I'm on the fence on what engine to build out and therefore what head to send you guys. M54 engine is aluminum and takes 40 lbs. off the front of the car however, if the engine can't be made to breathe that is another issue. It would seem that even though they made the ports smaller, the performance numbers went up. Is that velocity over volume thus supporting your direction on "bigger isn't always better? Last question, vanos fan or not? How does vanos effect air flow if at all? Love your videos Dave, like to see more BMW stuff of course but I'm probably late to the game on that one, they seem to be old school
Hello friend, I have a small compressor and I can't buy an air die grinder because it would be charging air all the time, looking for an electric die grinder, would you recommend the Makita G0603, can sand cartridge rolls be used in it? Or would this get very hot? I need to do some light porting with power tools at home. greetings and excellent channel my congratulations❤😊
Yeah i should have got a valvejob done 😢after porting my LS heads ... planning upgrades in the future .. another set of trick heads with the works , good valves good valvejob , hand ported titanium retainers etc etc
you don't want to valve job the TFS heads. That valve job is tough to beat, and easily hurts CFM if you do. There is a ridge at the bottom of the intake seat that will kill airflow if you touch it.
The head is in their Camry/Lexus ES300/330 from 97-2004. Its similar design to 2jz, but flows more on the intake unported. How about how large of intake valves can you install on 2jz?@@headgames
@@dennisrobinson8008 oh we definitely wouldn’t see any heads from that application for performance. I’ve seen guys do a +2 valve on the 2jz but we don’t do that. A oversized valve is not needed under 2000whp on a 2jz.
haha I remember working at Racers Edge i was the Claying Guy and guide grinding or guide removing guy. I also id the motor cycle engine biulds and such. It was a fun job!
You need a carbide double cut burr. Don't get it on Amazon, or china because they are just regular steel burrs and short. You need to get the 6" one and cut it down. Also, get a oval and round burr. Good luck!
Has anyone ever done a SIX angle valve job so you can get a 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 80-degree angle progression, with either the 40 or 50 being the seat (or a 35, 45, 55, 65, 75, 85 with 45 being the seat), or is that just too OCD and not the way to do valve jobs?
@@Drunken_Hamster that would just be a radius and it would have to be a really large seat to get 6 angles on. Most heads we work on 5 angles won’t fit unless you made the angles very narrow.
@@headgames Now I have more questions, damn. Is a radius the best choice or feasible for most engines, or is it a very proprietary "per bowl/seat" type of thing and you'd have to custom-tool it for every head? Is there that much of a detriment to going really narrow on the angles (still a full-sized seat for sealing, I presume)? If you can't fit 5 with wide enough angles, do you jump straight to 3 or does a 4-angle job (presumably 75, 60, 45, 30) see benefits over a 3-angle? Can you combine a standardized radius with a 3-angle job to kinda bridge all of these practices together into one simplified/ideal one-size-fits-most practice?
@@Drunken_Hamster we don't use radius valve jobs. They do flow good, but on the car they don't work good. Sometimes you don't pay attention to the flowbench. You can get a radius valve job without going custom but depending on the size of the seat you won't see all 5 angles. We do mostly 3-4 angles. Width wise, the narrow valve job won't last. The 45 takes heat away from the valve. Sometimes we make the whole seat a 45 and make it .080 wide to just get rid of the heat. That is in a 100psi, and nitrous situation. We just need to make it live!
@@headgames I don't ever see myself going 100psi AND nitrous, lol. Mostly looking for street car/mixed-duty stuff on a J series Honda V6. Long term, I'm hoping to build and swap a J35 into my Accord and make about 330-360whp all motor to replace my stock J30, then drop a 100 shot on top of that for racing. Boost is overdone and I'm already pretty happy with stock power TBH, so I'd much rather have a nice "built" N/A street motor and use the bottle to augment when needed for drag and roll racing. My primary racing formats will be autocross/circuit, so power adders quickly create traction problems with FWD, anyway. Might consider boost if and only if I do some insanity mid-engine build 5+ years from now.
Please do a video on how to remove and install of valve guides i had a shop destroy my cylinder head due improper install it bleed oil from them ramming the guides in
that is just measuring the guide that comes out and measuring the ones that goes in. We can do this! People don't measure, including the manufactures on this deal. Thanks for the input!!
A lot of our videos touch on this. There is no real hassle, because if you are doing a valve job it is just setting the cutter to a different diameter. The issue is almost every head we have tested it does flow better to do +1 but only after 9mm of lift. And under that lift, the stock size valve destroys the +1. So the area under the curve is much better for the stock size valve. Same thing happens on the car.
Not with the grinder but yes. We machine that area. Don't try to make the area under the seat that a lot of 4G heads have that is deeper than the rest blend in. You will make it too big.
I'm in "Trenton" giving plasma... NJ IN THE HOUSE!!! My Subaru has droning noises I kind of wonder what's going on.. How important to have 4 evenly matched tires on a Subaru?
I have some L25 heads.... wanna check them out maybe for a video? They were supposedly reconditioned and sold from a Subaru dealer....Dealer.... @HeadGames Motorworks
I love the fact you aren't scared to share information. A lot of people consider certain info to be trade secrets. Which as a machinist I can understand. But a company willing to try to TEACH others will ALWAYS bring in more customers. You're establishing trust with viewers with these videos. You're also teaching at the same time. I've only been following your channel for 2 weeks. But after watching video after video, I've learned an incredible amount. Keep up the good work. And keep the videos coming. Your knowledge gained through experience speaks for itself.
Thanks! Appreciate the kind words!!
These videos are what earned my trust to send my cylinder head to them. Good for business.
@@kalyndyck315 I can understand that completely. I can't agree more. I've been a machinist for 2 decades doing everything from automotive to aerospace. The knowledge shared speaks volumes about their experience. And this isn't the kind of info you can read in a book. It comes from LOTS of trial and error
@@highpsiguy4085 funny you say that. When I started this journey, I felt like people would theory but I just couldn’t do speak about anything but experiences.
@@headgames from someone in the same "trade/profession" I could tell immediately that you were very skilled and very knowledgeable. I believe strongly that even the average customer watching your videos has the same feeling. Even without the machining background. And that speaks volumes. I'm sure there's quite a few people that come for the content and leave as a future customer. Because you build a relationship THROUGH the content you post. And that's priceless!
I have used 90% intake, 85% exhaust seat ID for many, many years on Japanese motorcycle heads. Works very well especially with OS valves. I recommend boring the seat ID on the Serdi or something similar as all the ID's come out the same and speed up the porting process.....no need to measure, remeasure etc.
“Head games” is a hilarious and clever name for a machine shop.
thank you! I came up with it because when I worked at Pat Musi's he called me "Big Head" because my noggin is so big. And we do heads so put it together!
Thanks Dave for another awesome video! Appreciate your willingness to share. I feel I'm old school racing a BMW m52 but curious what improvements can be made to that head? I have an old Superflow 110 flowbench that I play around with some old heads. The more I experiment the less I know lol. What I have learned is that head porting to make a performance gain is indeed a highly skilled operation. Bigger isn't necessarily better, information you often share. Even though I may have the tools and ability to do my own port work, my head will end up there at headgames! Lots of areas to spend money on a race car, it's endless. Proven results is what you guys offer, not many can do that...money well spent.
Ben thanks for the kid words! We don't port that head either. It really doesn't need it for what most do with it. A good valve job and a pocket port and it rocks.
@@headgames Thanks for the reply Dave, Good to know!
Curious on your thoughts on the M54 head. Couldn't help but notice when I had both heads on the bench next to each other. Both the intake and exhaust ports on the M54 head are considerably smaller than the S52 heads. My application is road racing and its NA. Torque off the corners is important but so is straightaway HP and speed. Always a balance.
It seems like BMW started focusing more on low end drivability (AKA torque) in the mid 90's as they first reduced the cross-sectional size of the S52 intake manifold as compared to the prior generation M50 manifold. A popular swap among us BMW S52 guys but I question the loss of mid-range torque, I'm thinking from loss of air speed. When the M54 came out, again another reduction but this time in the size of the ports.
Does Head Games do anything with the M54 head with porting considering the factory port size of the S/M 52 head is much larger?
I'm on the fence on what engine to build out and therefore what head to send you guys. M54 engine is aluminum and takes 40 lbs. off the front of the car however, if the engine can't be made to breathe that is another issue. It would seem that even though they made the ports smaller, the performance numbers went up. Is that velocity over volume thus supporting your direction on "bigger isn't always better?
Last question, vanos fan or not? How does vanos effect air flow if at all?
Love your videos Dave, like to see more BMW stuff of course but I'm probably late to the game on that one, they seem to be old school
Hello friend, I have a small compressor and I can't buy an air die grinder because it would be charging air all the time, looking for an electric die grinder, would you recommend the Makita G0603, can sand cartridge rolls be used in it? Or would this get very hot? I need to do some light porting with power tools at home. greetings and excellent channel my congratulations❤😊
The electric grinder sucks to sand with. I’ve tried it, easy way to bend the mandrel. No easy way out of that for you.
Yeah i should have got a valvejob done 😢after porting my LS heads ... planning upgrades in the future .. another set of trick heads with the works , good valves good valvejob , hand ported titanium retainers etc etc
you don't want to valve job the TFS heads. That valve job is tough to beat, and easily hurts CFM if you do. There is a ridge at the bottom of the intake seat that will kill airflow if you touch it.
@HeadGames Motorworks not trick flow just tricked out stock heads 😎
Another exceptional class
Keep the great work 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
thanks!
Excellent video! Thanks for shating with us.
Can you port Toyota 1mz/3mz heads?
Sorry not something we work on. I’ve actually never heard of either one before.
The head is in their Camry/Lexus ES300/330 from 97-2004. Its similar design to 2jz, but flows more on the intake unported. How about how large of intake valves can you install on 2jz?@@headgames
@@dennisrobinson8008 oh we definitely wouldn’t see any heads from that application for performance. I’ve seen guys do a +2 valve on the 2jz but we don’t do that. A oversized valve is not needed under 2000whp on a 2jz.
haha I remember working at Racers Edge i was the Claying Guy and guide grinding or guide removing guy. I also id the motor cycle engine biulds and such. It was a fun job!
That sounds terrible but cool you liked it! Bret is good people too.
@@headgames haha Yes Bret is a cool guy. I fugured you knew him lol
If trying to pocket an iron head, what flavor of bits would you recomend?
You need a carbide double cut burr. Don't get it on Amazon, or china because they are just regular steel burrs and short. You need to get the 6" one and cut it down. Also, get a oval and round burr. Good luck!
Has anyone ever done a SIX angle valve job so you can get a 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 80-degree angle progression, with either the 40 or 50 being the seat (or a 35, 45, 55, 65, 75, 85 with 45 being the seat), or is that just too OCD and not the way to do valve jobs?
@@Drunken_Hamster that would just be a radius and it would have to be a really large seat to get 6 angles on. Most heads we work on 5 angles won’t fit unless you made the angles very narrow.
@@headgames Now I have more questions, damn. Is a radius the best choice or feasible for most engines, or is it a very proprietary "per bowl/seat" type of thing and you'd have to custom-tool it for every head?
Is there that much of a detriment to going really narrow on the angles (still a full-sized seat for sealing, I presume)?
If you can't fit 5 with wide enough angles, do you jump straight to 3 or does a 4-angle job (presumably 75, 60, 45, 30) see benefits over a 3-angle?
Can you combine a standardized radius with a 3-angle job to kinda bridge all of these practices together into one simplified/ideal one-size-fits-most practice?
@@Drunken_Hamster we don't use radius valve jobs. They do flow good, but on the car they don't work good. Sometimes you don't pay attention to the flowbench. You can get a radius valve job without going custom but depending on the size of the seat you won't see all 5 angles. We do mostly 3-4 angles. Width wise, the narrow valve job won't last. The 45 takes heat away from the valve. Sometimes we make the whole seat a 45 and make it .080 wide to just get rid of the heat. That is in a 100psi, and nitrous situation. We just need to make it live!
@@headgames I don't ever see myself going 100psi AND nitrous, lol. Mostly looking for street car/mixed-duty stuff on a J series Honda V6. Long term, I'm hoping to build and swap a J35 into my Accord and make about 330-360whp all motor to replace my stock J30, then drop a 100 shot on top of that for racing. Boost is overdone and I'm already pretty happy with stock power TBH, so I'd much rather have a nice "built" N/A street motor and use the bottle to augment when needed for drag and roll racing.
My primary racing formats will be autocross/circuit, so power adders quickly create traction problems with FWD, anyway. Might consider boost if and only if I do some insanity mid-engine build 5+ years from now.
Please do a video on how to remove and install of valve guides i had a shop destroy my cylinder head due improper install it bleed oil from them ramming the guides in
that is just measuring the guide that comes out and measuring the ones that goes in. We can do this! People don't measure, including the manufactures on this deal. Thanks for the input!!
I have a DZ302 going in for a rebuild. Are there any recommended improvements for those heads?
@@michaelheagen1244 no clue. I’ve never seen one.
I have a question regarding Import cylinder heads, are the 1mm oversize really worth the hassle and cost, what are the Dyno gains from it?
A lot of our videos touch on this. There is no real hassle, because if you are doing a valve job it is just setting the cutter to a different diameter. The issue is almost every head we have tested it does flow better to do +1 but only after 9mm of lift. And under that lift, the stock size valve destroys the +1. So the area under the curve is much better for the stock size valve. Same thing happens on the car.
When resizing the throat area do you have to take off material from the valve seat itself as well ? 4G63 head. great content by the way...!
Not with the grinder but yes. We machine that area. Don't try to make the area under the seat that a lot of 4G heads have that is deeper than the rest blend in. You will make it too big.
@@headgames I've seen some where the casting meets the seat are actually bigger, in that case would I need to blend the seat to the port ?
cool , how we could sponsor ?
Can we get a “Thank you for coming to my Head Talk” at the end of the videos? 😅😂
Next vid I do!
Do you have a full port for the B58? Web site only shows pocket. Ty
We are currently developing a b58 full port. Will be available in 3 months.
Dave if you did a full port job on 2jz head but used stock valves , would there be any flow gains ?
I would never use a stock valve and a ported head. Stock size, but not stock valve.
@headgames I'm guessing because material used in aftermarket stock sized valves are of better quality? Thanks for reply BTW
If you're not replacing the guides do you still remove the guide to port or knock it down out the way then back when finished?
We are always replacing the guide when we are porting. But, certainly you can knock them back out of the way if you don’t want to replace.
In your experience what oem head castings have the most core shift?
4G63 followed by 2JZ
approx cost of full port job on 1UZ toyota heads?
Sorry we don’t have a full port for the 1UZ
Hi can you give advice my b20b i will put vtec head b16a but iwant to make polish the head
I'm in "Trenton" giving plasma... NJ IN THE HOUSE!!! My Subaru has droning noises I kind of wonder what's going on.. How important to have 4 evenly matched tires on a Subaru?
we do cylinder heads not tires
@@headgames Mine stalled on the road, doesn't appear to want to restart
@@82_KID part it out
@@TDT0188 it was a loose wire on the starter
I have some L25 heads.... wanna check them out maybe for a video? They were supposedly reconditioned and sold from a Subaru dealer....Dealer.... @HeadGames Motorworks
Hey chief thank you ❤️❤️
Great video.
I have to say you remind me of Vincent D’Onofrio except you're better looking.
thanks sugar!
You guys need a sr20det or vet some headgames love🎉🎉
We don’t work on them anymore. You can look up articles on ones we did many years ago for Modified Magazine and Import Tuner.
The CNC doesn't know that cast heads have manufacturing differences. Now if you started with a billet CNC head, then you'd get repeatable CNC results.
Yes!!
Thats obvious
🇦🇬
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️.
🙇🏾♂️