For EV charging where you will be plugging and unplugging a cable from the outlet, an industrial grade 14-50 is recommended by Tesla. Evidently some have had issues with prongs wearing out.
schedule 40 is recommended for underground work schedule 80 exterior expose work so there is a difference between white an gray not just the color but the uses in different applications there are also less shater sun light resistant GOOD video
Good comment about the conduit and wire. The other issue that has become evident over the last few years is that the cheaper outlets that are fine for dryers and ranges are not built for the continuous loads of the EVSEs and are overheating and melting. I am pretty sure this set up has the cheaper outlet because it fits in the exterior RV box. The 2.5 inch commercial grade outlets will not fit into the enclosures. Currently there is not a good option for an exterior EVSE outlet.
The answer is to buy the weather proof box that comes with the inferior receptacle, remove the receptacle and replace it with an industrial grade one. The hole in the box is too small so you'll have to drill or punch the hole out bigger so that it can accomodate the bigger industrial grade receptacle. You'll probably also have to drill some holes for the receptacle's mounting screws.
You are correct with this solution. Is this a good solution? It works, although a bit of work to accomplish. Too bad no one has yet created an enclosure that will accept the larger commercial grade outlets. @@robmenzies862
I just used "Liquidtite" when I ran a line outdoors for the required disconnect I installed with our new Ductless ~ac unit. (from the disconnect to the unit, that is). Not cheap, but it is rated for outdoors. Somewhat flexible, and has special fittings.
I like diy videos like yours. They inspire and motivate. For everyone out there, please start with your building department. A permit may or may not be required (they cover your butt for insurance coverage). Your service (electrical supply to your house) is installed for your home as built. Level 2 chargers are like adding a second stove/oven combo to run all night. Your main electrical supply wires may not be big enough. All the requirements are publically available, but inspectors and electricians should already know them. A phone call may get you an answer, a consultant, a trainer, or a worker depending on your needs and abilities. Just be safe and do it correctly. Remember that most electrical rules and requirements are written with the blood of the dead. And knowledge is the one treasure that you can give all of it away and still have all you started with.
Actually gray PVC conduit comes in Sch. 40 as well as Sch. 80. Most of what they sell at the consumer retail stores is Sch. 40. Sch. 80 is often special-order. Sch. 80 is recommended (possibly even code-required) for any exposed outside use because it's more impact resistant than Sch. 40 (by exposed I mean above-ground). In my experience the gray PVC conduit is also more shatter-resistant than white PVC pipe. Lastly, the gray conduit is UV-resistant, whereas white PVC pipe is not. Painting it, as he did in this case, would certainly help with that. But had this been my project, I'd have waited until I could get conduit (or gone further to find it).
Is there any requirement for the 220v 50A outlet? At home, we have a 220v with dual 30A outlet. I used it to charge my Model Y but in the car i changed the 32A received to 28A. What do you think?
There's no requirement. If you have a 30A outlet, use that. Just keep in mind, since you'll be charging your car for many hours continuously, the rule is to only use 80% of what your breaker is rated for. In your case, assuming your 30A outlet is also attached to a 30A breaker, you should only draw 24 amps from it.
You are probably assuming wrong. In most cities you would probably need a permit. This is something that you would want to check with on your local laws.
Dude stop doing electrical you don' t know what you are doing, plus #8 thhn wire at 75 °C is rated for 55 amps ,white pvc is for plumbing not rated or listed for electrical systems plus that needs to be schd 80 by code.
Sir, I may have the wrong code book. My 2020 NEC under 310.16 table has #8 them at 55 amps under the 90 degree column, however 2020 NEC 110.14.(C).(1). Demands we use the 60 degree column for equipment connections under 100 amps. So, to get the 55 amp 90 degree rating, we must connect to the breaker with a #6 @ 55 amps @60 degrees and then splice to a wire connector rated at 90 degrees to your #8 to use the 90 degree column. Did I get that right?
@@PeterJames143 when you look for the ampacity of wire, how much current the wire will carry, you find 2020 NEC table 310.16 which has 3 columns for copper and 3 for aluminum. Most people look at wire like thhn and say look 90 degree c column.(#8 wire at 55 amps). Few realize that the NEC in 110.14.(C). Says that the wire that connects to the breaker mush is the 60 degree c rating (#8 wire at 40 amps). (Exceptions exist) This is a 40 amp breaker and 40 amp circuit not a 50 amp circuit. By changing the temperature rating of the wire termination point, you can now use the different temperature setting. So, the 60 degree wire rating at the breaker means you can connect #6 @ 60 degrees and 55 amps to a 90 degree wire splice to run #8 thhn at 90 degrees and 55 amps.....you might need to shift back at the other end for connection to the unit or receptacle. Generally, this shifting back and forth for wire sizes is not done because it cost more in time and equipment expense. It is cheaper to install the larger wire the whole run.
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bzivN4KDg-k/mqdefault.jpg)
For EV charging where you will be plugging and unplugging a cable from the outlet, an industrial grade 14-50 is recommended by Tesla. Evidently some have had issues with prongs wearing out.
schedule 40 is recommended for underground work schedule 80 exterior expose work so there is a difference between white an gray not just the color but the uses in different applications there are also less shater sun light resistant GOOD video
Good comment about the conduit and wire. The other issue that has become evident over the last few years is that the cheaper outlets that are fine for dryers and ranges are not built for the continuous loads of the EVSEs and are overheating and melting. I am pretty sure this set up has the cheaper outlet because it fits in the exterior RV box. The 2.5 inch commercial grade outlets will not fit into the enclosures. Currently there is not a good option for an exterior EVSE outlet.
The answer is to buy the weather proof box that comes with the inferior receptacle, remove the receptacle and replace it with an industrial grade one. The hole in the box is too small so you'll have to drill or punch the hole out bigger so that it can accomodate the bigger industrial grade receptacle. You'll probably also have to drill some holes for the receptacle's mounting screws.
You are correct with this solution. Is this a good solution? It works, although a bit of work to accomplish. Too bad no one has yet created an enclosure that will accept the larger commercial grade outlets. @@robmenzies862
I just used "Liquidtite" when I ran a line outdoors for the required disconnect I installed with our new Ductless ~ac unit. (from the disconnect to the unit, that is). Not cheap, but it is rated for outdoors. Somewhat flexible, and has special fittings.
I like diy videos like yours. They inspire and motivate.
For everyone out there, please start with your building department. A permit may or may not be required (they cover your butt for insurance coverage).
Your service (electrical supply to your house) is installed for your home as built. Level 2 chargers are like adding a second stove/oven combo to run all night. Your main electrical supply wires may not be big enough.
All the requirements are publically available, but inspectors and electricians should already know them. A phone call may get you an answer, a consultant, a trainer, or a worker depending on your needs and abilities.
Just be safe and do it correctly.
Remember that most electrical rules and requirements are written with the blood of the dead.
And knowledge is the one treasure that you can give all of it away and still have all you started with.
I think you can go down to #10 for the ground...just to add to the chaos
Grey PVC is schedule 80, thicker-walled than the white schedule 40, which is why it is specified for electrical work.
Thanks, good to have the right information. Didn't sound right when I heard it.
Actually gray PVC conduit comes in Sch. 40 as well as Sch. 80. Most of what they sell at the consumer retail stores is Sch. 40. Sch. 80 is often special-order. Sch. 80 is recommended (possibly even code-required) for any exposed outside use because it's more impact resistant than Sch. 40 (by exposed I mean above-ground). In my experience the gray PVC conduit is also more shatter-resistant than white PVC pipe. Lastly, the gray conduit is UV-resistant, whereas white PVC pipe is not. Painting it, as he did in this case, would certainly help with that. But had this been my project, I'd have waited until I could get conduit (or gone further to find it).
Did you mount the ground to the box? I see the plug has a pre wired ground wire from the outlet to the box already. Thanks
What is the size of that PVC pipe? Look like 3/4"?
Is there any requirement for the 220v 50A outlet? At home, we have a 220v with dual 30A outlet. I used it to charge my Model Y but in the car i changed the 32A received to 28A. What do you think?
You can leave it at 32a and the car will only charge at whatever is available to it.
There's no requirement. If you have a 30A outlet, use that. Just keep in mind, since you'll be charging your car for many hours continuously, the rule is to only use 80% of what your breaker is rated for. In your case, assuming your 30A outlet is also attached to a 30A breaker, you should only draw 24 amps from it.
Will this work for a welder?
It’s 120/240 and has been for 70 years. I don’t k ow why you and others refuse to “get” it.
The sun will kill the white pvc after a few years the fist bump will break it.
Not enough info on which wire goes where....just bc. More narration needed÷my opinion.
will #8 THHN wire work as well?
Only for the ground. The rest should be #6.
@@BearsWorkshop according to what? Voltage drop on a short run of 8awg and that current like you're doing is well below 3%
safety factor says #6. don't be cheap and stupid. 😂 FAFO!
So I’m assuming you didn’t need a permit for this?
You are probably assuming wrong. In most cities you would probably need a permit. This is something that you would want to check with on your local laws.
@@BearsWorkshop did you get one?
@@bobbilljim01 did you get a permit to be a bitch? The dude gave enough disclaimers
@@troll1949 LOL!
Free men don't ask for permission ha ha ha ah (meniacle laughter).
You could have fed that from the top.. good job anyway.
Why not just use EMT ?
Dude stop doing electrical you don' t know what you are doing, plus #8 thhn wire at 75 °C is rated for 55 amps ,white pvc is for plumbing not rated or listed for electrical systems plus that needs to be schd 80 by code.
Sir, I may have the wrong code book. My 2020 NEC under 310.16 table has #8 them at 55 amps under the 90 degree column, however 2020 NEC 110.14.(C).(1). Demands we use the 60 degree column for equipment connections under 100 amps. So, to get the 55 amp 90 degree rating, we must connect to the breaker with a #6 @ 55 amps @60 degrees and then splice to a wire connector rated at 90 degrees to your #8 to use the 90 degree column.
Did I get that right?
@@keithharrington4595 what?
@@PeterJames143 when you look for the ampacity of wire, how much current the wire will carry, you find 2020 NEC table 310.16 which has 3 columns for copper and 3 for aluminum.
Most people look at wire like thhn and say look 90 degree c column.(#8 wire at 55 amps).
Few realize that the NEC in 110.14.(C). Says that the wire that connects to the breaker mush is the 60 degree c rating (#8 wire at 40 amps). (Exceptions exist)
This is a 40 amp breaker and 40 amp circuit not a 50 amp circuit.
By changing the temperature rating of the wire termination point, you can now use the different temperature setting. So, the 60 degree wire rating at the breaker means you can connect #6 @ 60 degrees and 55 amps to a 90 degree wire splice to run #8 thhn at 90 degrees and 55 amps.....you might need to shift back at the other end for connection to the unit or receptacle.
Generally, this shifting back and forth for wire sizes is not done because it cost more in time and equipment expense. It is cheaper to install the larger wire the whole run.
Technically not a supercharger. Superchargers are not installed at homes.
Looks terrible. Great job on the circuit. But dont agree running over the top and back down