Great info on the plugs! Worth it to test the primary and secondary of the ignition coils, the DENSO were a known faulty part but the Mitsubishi coils hold up pretty well.
Hey at 8:34 you're turning the cams on cylinder 1 to the point that they are facing upwards. I'm pretty sure that this is not the correct way to meassure the valve clearance. I'm riding an XJ6 (pretty similar engine to the R6) and when I put the timing mark T under the timing cover to the TDC for cylinder 1, the intake cams are facing towards the airbox and the exhaust cams towards the front wheel like this: < > and not like /\ Same for every other cylinder. Correct me if I'm wrong, Greetings from Germany
Thanks for checking out my video & the comment. It is the absolute correct way to check vavle clearances. You want the cam lobes facing away from the buckets when youre doing your measurements. As long as the cam lobes are not in contact with the buckets you can take you're measurements. The lobes can be facing sideways as long as the lobe isn't in contact with the buckets. Now if I was checking cam timing I would then make sure timing marks are lined up on the fly wheel & the cam sprockets. All that would come into play if I needed to remove the cams to reshim a valve. I appreciate you checking out my video all the way in Germany. Feel free to ask me any you might be curious about.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Thank you for your quick reply. Yeah that makes sense that you can take meassurements as long as the cams are not hitting the buckets. I just thought that the cylinder that you are checking has to be exactly at TDC in combustion stroke the moment you're checking it and not "just the cams facing away and not hitting the bucket" because of this precise and tiny meassurements. I thought that there will be differences in meassuring when doing so, for example: cylinder 1 is exactly at TDC, cam lobes are showing to the left and right < > (for my XJ6 example and owners manual) could give me another valve clearance than cam lobes are facing upwards. Is this just negligible? Again, greetz from Germany and all the best to you!
Yeah they're supposed to last a little bit longer. I'm just not a huge fan of them because I had a lot of issues with them when I was running them on a Dyno with electrical interference. Also for the money you pay for iridium compared to the standard I personally don't think the performance is that big of a difference. But everybody has their own opinion so if it calls for iridium's I put iridium's in if it doesn't call for radium then I do not use iridium plugs
Hey I’m doing my valves and it seems like most of them on the exhaust side are too tight. >0.127mm do I just take the old shim out and put everything back together and go from there?
Hey Always Hustling. No not exactly. So make sure to write down all your measurements first. Then put your motor at TDC on cylinder #1. I'm sure you know how to properly take your cams out if you're doing your own vavle adjustment. Then take the shim out & measure it with a set of caliper & write that measurement down. I usually do mine in Thousands of an inch instead of millimeters. For me it's just easier to figure out what should I need that way. But anyways after you write that down you need to figure out how many thousands or millimeters smaller or thicker depending on what your measurement was you need to go with the new shim. So let's say you have a 2.20 shim in your exhausted side & you measured .009 & you need it at .012 well you know you need a shim that's. 003 smaller than what's in there. You can sometimes still read the # on the shim then you look in you shim kit & grab on & measure it till you find one that's .003 small than that your other one measured. Then you do that to all of them & then put your top end back together & make sure it's in time. Then rotate the motor over by hand a few times & then measure the clearance again. If it's correct awesome but if not you will have to repeat the process. The more you do valve adjustments the quicker & best you get at it.
great video! gonna attempt on my 07, still new to all of this. when the valves are out of spec when you add the new shim do u still keep the old one in? saw another video where the guy used both the new and the old shim
Thanks for checking out my video. To start off you absolutely never ever use 2 shims stack on top of each other. That will end in a disaster. You buy yourself a proper shim kit from hot cams. You measure the clearance & if any of them are out of spec you have to put your bike at TDC take the cam chain tensioner out then un bolt the cams & measure the shim then male the difference up with the proper new shim. Then bolt it all back together rotate the motor over & Re measure your clearance to see if it is inspec.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I have that same issue idk if it’s the injectors or the fuel pump but it dies at idle I have to keep giving it gas 2005 R6
It is a motion pro T handel with a long 3/8 drive 3mm ball end allen. Here is the amazon link. amzn.to/3zBZ6BC Mine is a little different because its older.
Hey Noah. I usually charge 2-3 hours of labor depending on how my valves I need to re shim plus parts. Shop labor rates vary from place to place. I'm only $75 an hour as of right now since I'm only open part time.
Man I wish you were close to my area 😂 I need a good solid mechanic
I have customers that drive 10hrs oneway to have me work on there Powersports unit. Lol.
Feeling the 80s arcade music
😆 not a ton of copy right free music choices out there. But I do love me some 80's video games 🕹
Great info on the plugs! Worth it to test the primary and secondary of the ignition coils, the DENSO were a known faulty part but the Mitsubishi coils hold up pretty well.
Yeah it seems DENSO has had many year of issues with all kinds of coils for a lot of different manufacturers.
Hey
at 8:34 you're turning the cams on cylinder 1 to the point that they are facing upwards. I'm pretty sure that this is not the correct way to meassure the valve clearance. I'm riding an XJ6 (pretty similar engine to the R6) and when I put the timing mark T under the timing cover to the TDC for cylinder 1, the intake cams are facing towards the airbox and the exhaust cams towards the front wheel like this: < > and not like /\
Same for every other cylinder.
Correct me if I'm wrong,
Greetings from Germany
Thanks for checking out my video & the comment. It is the absolute correct way to check vavle clearances. You want the cam lobes facing away from the buckets when youre doing your measurements. As long as the cam lobes are not in contact with the buckets you can take you're measurements. The lobes can be facing sideways as long as the lobe isn't in contact with the buckets. Now if I was checking cam timing I would then make sure timing marks are lined up on the fly wheel & the cam sprockets. All that would come into play if I needed to remove the cams to reshim a valve. I appreciate you checking out my video all the way in Germany. Feel free to ask me any you might be curious about.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Thank you for your quick reply. Yeah that makes sense that you can take meassurements as long as the cams are not hitting the buckets. I just thought that the cylinder that you are checking has to be exactly at TDC in combustion stroke the moment you're checking it and not "just the cams facing away and not hitting the bucket" because of this precise and tiny meassurements. I thought that there will be differences in meassuring when doing so, for example: cylinder 1 is exactly at TDC, cam lobes are showing to the left and right < > (for my XJ6 example and owners manual) could give me another valve clearance than cam lobes are facing upwards. Is this just negligible?
Again, greetz from Germany and all the best to you!
don't iridium's last a bit longer? i heard for some peeps on fz6, they go through plugs about 8k miles.
Yeah they're supposed to last a little bit longer. I'm just not a huge fan of them because I had a lot of issues with them when I was running them on a Dyno with electrical interference. Also for the money you pay for iridium compared to the standard I personally don't think the performance is that big of a difference. But everybody has their own opinion so if it calls for iridium's I put iridium's in if it doesn't call for radium then I do not use iridium plugs
Hey I’m doing my valves and it seems like most of them on the exhaust side are too tight. >0.127mm do I just take the old shim out and put everything back together and go from there?
Hey Always Hustling. No not exactly. So make sure to write down all your measurements first. Then put your motor at TDC on cylinder #1. I'm sure you know how to properly take your cams out if you're doing your own vavle adjustment. Then take the shim out & measure it with a set of caliper & write that measurement down. I usually do mine in Thousands of an inch instead of millimeters. For me it's just easier to figure out what should I need that way. But anyways after you write that down you need to figure out how many thousands or millimeters smaller or thicker depending on what your measurement was you need to go with the new shim. So let's say you have a 2.20 shim in your exhausted side & you measured .009 & you need it at .012 well you know you need a shim that's. 003 smaller than what's in there. You can sometimes still read the # on the shim then you look in you shim kit & grab on & measure it till you find one that's .003 small than that your other one measured. Then you do that to all of them & then put your top end back together & make sure it's in time. Then rotate the motor over by hand a few times & then measure the clearance again. If it's correct awesome but if not you will have to repeat the process. The more you do valve adjustments the quicker & best you get at it.
Where are you located, got a 04 r6 n it ticks, not super loud but it has 30k on it and not sure when it was last done
I'm located in Southwest Missouri. In a little town called Ozark.
great video! gonna attempt on my 07, still new to all of this. when the valves are out of spec when you add the new shim do u still keep the old one in? saw another video where the guy used both the new and the old shim
Thanks for checking out my video. To start off you absolutely never ever use 2 shims stack on top of each other. That will end in a disaster. You buy yourself a proper shim kit from hot cams. You measure the clearance & if any of them are out of spec you have to put your bike at TDC take the cam chain tensioner out then un bolt the cams & measure the shim then male the difference up with the proper new shim. Then bolt it all back together rotate the motor over & Re measure your clearance to see if it is inspec.
I need work done on my R6 😢. Bike can’t idle or else it dies, I think the fuel injectors are dirty or the fuel pumps going bad.
What year is your R6?
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394
I have that same issue idk if it’s the injectors or the fuel pump but it dies at idle I have to keep giving it gas 2005 R6
what is that t handle tool you had and where could I find one
It is a motion pro T handel with a long 3/8 drive 3mm ball end allen. Here is the amazon link. amzn.to/3zBZ6BC Mine is a little different because its older.
Do You know Fernando amantini?
Yes I do. I worked with in in AMA Supersport racing in 2012,2013,2014 the bike in the picture I built.
Wie lange hat es gedauert?
Normalerweise dauert die Ventileinstellung zwischen 2 und 4 Stunden
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Vielen Dank
How much do you charge for a service such as a valve adjustment
Hey Noah. I usually charge 2-3 hours of labor depending on how my valves I need to re shim plus parts. Shop labor rates vary from place to place. I'm only $75 an hour as of right now since I'm only open part time.
hello what is your email? i would like to talk to you about the problems with my 08 yamaha r6s.
Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com