At 5:06, those plates block off the Air Induction System (AIS), which is an emissions control device that injects air into the exhaust pipes to make sure leftover fuel is burned. The stock configuration has inlets there with hoses that extend to a solenoid that opens to allow filtered air from the airbox in through where those plates are mounted. There is a lot more room to work on top of the engine with those hoses and solenoid removed.
At 7:54, that silver cylinder has two coolant hoses on it. The plunger on the Left end of the cylinder moves outward when the coolant flowing through it is warm. That let's a little more air into the throttles than when the bike is warmed up and a little less air (cold start enrichment) when the coolant is cool. You can watch it to make sure it moves as the bike warms up.
These videos were a life saver! I adjusted the valves on my 05 R6 and now when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump but nothing on the dash turns on nor the horn, battery is testing at 12.3 Volts. Any suggestions?
Layth Bukhari interesting issue, well if it worked before you did the work then start in the area you were working on. I have been known to not plug things back in. Good luck and let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
Does this have one of those weird exhaust servo thingys? Have you pulled the header? Could there be a piece of crap between the header and the cat? Just a thought.
Justin Speck sometimes you just gotta sit down and enjoy a cold beverage, relax and then get back at it in a calm mood. It would be awesome if it was all easy, but it’s not! Take your time, you got this buddy!
I’ve been following ur video as a guide on my r6 because I needed to do a valve adjustment(bought it used). I have a question about the valve clearance tho. My valves are all way to tight so I can’t even get the smallest feeler gauge in there to get a measurement. Do u have any recommendations on what to do, or should I just write -0 for the measurement and then remove the cams and everything
Rice Rocket if they are all tight, I would suggest rechecking your work. I don’t think I have ever seen an engine with every valve tight. But yes, if you get one so tight that a feeler gauge won’t fit, you just have to remove the cam, pull the shim and install a smaller one and check again. Good luck
Tom's Tinkering and Adventures Ya that’s a good idea, I’m going to check them all again and see if I maybe missed something or maybe had it slightly off of top dead center. I appreciate the help and the quick response👍🏻
@@jayk10304 yeah, like I said you can likely get away without needing anything. If I’m planning a check/adjustment I usually do it during a regular maintenance time so I do oil change and also maybe coolant change as well…just makes sense if they have not been done.
Put the end of a screwdriver around the area you hear the noise and use that to listen through! Been around some old school mechanics that have taught me alot.
@@bluezuke860 I was just thinking I should look it up, because I have an FZ6 which I believe is based off the newer engine but that thing only has a few thousand miles on it. I like that Yamaha has valve checks set at 26k miles.
Thank you for this video...I'm still afraid of this type of inspection, but I really want to learn it...this video is absolutely great....
@@Vahy77 sometimes just knowing what is involved is good. Thanks!
GREAT Video! i like how you had the hardware removed already for a smooth transition to part to part thru the whole process. A+
Phil G thank you, I am not the best at making videos but try to make it so people can get something useful out of them.
At 5:06, those plates block off the Air Induction System (AIS), which is an emissions control device that injects air into the exhaust pipes to make sure leftover fuel is burned. The stock configuration has inlets there with hoses that extend to a solenoid that opens to allow filtered air from the airbox in through where those plates are mounted. There is a lot more room to work on top of the engine with those hoses and solenoid removed.
Yes, pretty common modification to remove it and install those plates. Thanks for your information and thanks for watching.
I need to do that
At 7:54, that silver cylinder has two coolant hoses on it. The plunger on the Left end of the cylinder moves outward when the coolant flowing through it is warm. That let's a little more air into the throttles than when the bike is warmed up and a little less air (cold start enrichment) when the coolant is cool. You can watch it to make sure it moves as the bike warms up.
A lot of engineering goes into this stuff, interesting to see how it works.
check you cam chain tensioner its either loose or broken most likely (per the rattling noise at idle)
Grant Emmett you gotta watch the next couple videos!
These videos were a life saver! I adjusted the valves on my 05 R6 and now when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump but nothing on the dash turns on nor the horn, battery is testing at 12.3 Volts. Any suggestions?
Layth Bukhari interesting issue, well if it worked before you did the work then start in the area you were working on. I have been known to not plug things back in. Good luck and let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
Does this have one of those weird exhaust servo thingys? Have you pulled the header? Could there be a piece of crap between the header and the cat? Just a thought.
azdesertdog surprisingly, no exhaust servo on this bike even though I believe Yamaha was the first to run an exhaust servo (EXUP?) on their bikes.
A great video & hope all is well! Just a quick question, do you know how many miles were on the bike when you checked the clearance?
I really can’t remember, I think it had about 30k or something.
im 100% sure its the timing chain guide. you found a gold stuff inside.. its part of the amber colored plastic of the guide.
Coron Moto good guess, but you might want to watch the follow on videos. 100% would mean that you would put money on it....
omg.. you have tons of videos. great work! already subscribed.. will binge watch all of your videos. haha
Coron Moto hope you find a few of them helpful. I cover a lot of different things, thanks for watching.
HOWWWWW did you get those 4 bolts that are hidden holding the valve cover on?! I'm pulling my hair out trying
Justin Speck sometimes you just gotta sit down and enjoy a cold beverage, relax and then get back at it in a calm mood. It would be awesome if it was all easy, but it’s not! Take your time, you got this buddy!
I’ve been following ur video as a guide on my r6 because I needed to do a valve adjustment(bought it used). I have a question about the valve clearance tho. My valves are all way to tight so I can’t even get the smallest feeler gauge in there to get a measurement. Do u have any recommendations on what to do, or should I just write -0 for the measurement and then remove the cams and everything
Rice Rocket if they are all tight, I would suggest rechecking your work. I don’t think I have ever seen an engine with every valve tight. But yes, if you get one so tight that a feeler gauge won’t fit, you just have to remove the cam, pull the shim and install a smaller one and check again. Good luck
Tom's Tinkering and Adventures Ya that’s a good idea, I’m going to check them all again and see if I maybe missed something or maybe had it slightly off of top dead center. I appreciate the help and the quick response👍🏻
Rice Rocket good luck, take your time and you will get it!
Can you tell me all parts/gaskets/fluids needed? I bought mine used (17k) and she’s bout ready I assume. Thank you so much
For what, valve check? Shouldn’t need anything….maybe a cam chain tensioner gasket and some sealant
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures for the actual adjustment
@@jayk10304 yeah, like I said you can likely get away without needing anything. If I’m planning a check/adjustment I usually do it during a regular maintenance time so I do oil change and also maybe coolant change as well…just makes sense if they have not been done.
I'm calling it, rod bearings
Well there are a few more videos so you can see for yourself! 😀
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures I see it was a main, close!
@@Matt-nq4du yeah, I was sure hoping it was something easier! Turned out to be ok in the end.
How about using a broom stick,, to try to pin point the noise.. are something stick like..
Tom smales I have a mechanic stethoscope, I made a video using it but I accidentally deleted half of it! It wasn’t conclusive using it...
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures all ok I'm sure you will find out what it is,, it is just going to make you work for it..
Put the end of a screwdriver around the area you hear the noise and use that to listen through! Been around some old school mechanics that have taught me alot.
Hi, did you get to the bottom of the problem? Have the exact same thing on my r1. Thanks
Stan Stefanov yes, I made a few additional videos which you can find on my channel....but the short story is bad main bearings and rod bearings
Thank you for the reply. Really appreciate it.
Stan Stefanov I wish you good luck.
If the bike leaves the garage the noise will be gone.
Alan sterling it already has a fairly loud exhaust, perhaps the prior owner decided that was the way to fix it?
I know of someone that can quilt up a really good noise quilt if that would help.
Alan sterling hiding the noise won’t fix the noise. 😂
you don't hear it when it is fixed so by extension if you don't hear it, it must be fixed as well. Get logical bro!
Alan sterling I’m glad I have you to show me the way. 😀
automatic chain tensioner replace it with a manual one.
Not a bad idea, but that wasn’t the issue!
How many miles did this engine have on it?
I think it was around 30k?
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures nice that they were all still in spec. Thanks for the video
@@kennethemichael yeah, engine had some other issues but the top end was good
Wouldn't it be easier to just drop the engine out of the bike?
I have a video removing the engine. If you want to do that for a valve clearance check, I won’t stop you! 😀. Thanks for watching.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures I was thinking more for the actual servicing of the shims.
@@manoomunicnent1773 it’s a minor pain in the back side, but overall it’s not terrible. Removing the engine is a big job.
What year is this R6?
Young Blue 2005, sorry if I didn’t mention that. 2003-2005 R6 and 2006-2009 R6S should all be the same.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures Thanks bud, was searching for 2012. Cheers
@@bluezuke860 I imagine the procedure is not going to be much different, but possibly the clearance required may be.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures correct the process is the same but the clearance may differ in the later models.
@@bluezuke860 I was just thinking I should look it up, because I have an FZ6 which I believe is based off the newer engine but that thing only has a few thousand miles on it. I like that Yamaha has valve checks set at 26k miles.
BEHHH
Sure....
Show me
I thought that’s what a video does? Did you need more information?