Aluminum boat subfloor framing for Tiny Boats: Budget build Ep.3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
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Disclaimer: I am not a professional fabricator or builder.
I am a DIY Creator supported by this channel's audience
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Modify your boat at your own risk.
This series is exactly what I was looking for. I just picked up a 14' Mirrocraft Vhull right before it started snowing here and been itching to get started. It is really cool to have a detailed series going through the process, as this is my 1st boat and have alot more confidence than I had a couple weeks ago. Thanks!
Same situation! Wish I had a garage
Lol, I have the opposite problem. It's too hot in the summer here in Florida but I can't wait to get started.
I have a 14x48 Smoker Craft Alaskan that was completely gutted before I got it. I've been going back and forth on the sub floor and this is my answer. I probably won't pour foam but I will fill with pink foam.
Super excited to see this build progress.
This video is exactly what i was looking for and it is helping me out a lot. I got a quicksilver 4.10 V hull and it is gonna be my first build. I am a bit anxious to start but thanks to your videos i'm gonna do it!
Thank you so much for sharing this video.
Incredible, am a huge fan of your work, thank you, very helpful........ Building a community. Brilliant.
Thanks!
great videos! making my own tiny boat and you and your experiences have helped a lot!
Great to hear!
Nice job! Yours looks way cleaner than the one a did. I used a very similar method on my 14' v-bottom. But mine had a transition from vertical spines in the back to horizontal (like your boat) in the front that made it a little more tricky to lay out and level properly. The back was easy, the front section was an absolute bear to frame so that it would be level with the back framing. In front I used angle aluminum much the same as you did (but I used square tubing for the main beam (for strength) along with angle on the sides of it (to give it some extra width) and then tied in some angle like you did from the spines to the center main beam). Unfortunately I don't have those nice power tools you do, so I had to use hand tools to cut and rivet. It was a pain in the hands (and a55). Yours is shaping up to be a great build. Looking forward to seeing it progress.
Thanks for the insight!
I am starting my first build with a 14' valco. I am learning alot from your chanel, thank you. I'll be ordering a kit as well
Looks great u can put a door or hatch down middle to vacuum debris or water if middle channel isn’t foamed and just sides are foamed
I do like the slowed down process of this! I’m currently trying to finish my 1870 Big Jon V that I’ve done once and then decided this last fall after the tournament season was over to rip into again! I think I found where I slacked the last time, and definitely improved areas. I also added about a foot to my front deck. I’ve got everything framed, and I’ve got most of my wiring redone, I’ve added some more lighting, I now just need to make it up to get my hatch lids from Nate, I only live about an hour and half from his shop! I will doing my deck in turf this time as well. And I’ve definitely added more foam to mine this time around. I went with the pink board though, because it is a flat bottom and my subfloor I didn’t take too high up to allow room for deeper compartments, so I didn’t want any water just sitting on the pour foam!
Pan out the bottom and leave the middle channel for water drainage. The pour foam on the pan section. I would leave the 4 inch middle part without any for a drain and for my wires and other stuff to run.
This video is SUPER helpful. I have a very similar boat to this one and I turn to you to make it a nice bass boat. Keep up the great work my man!
Nice job guys . I've seen this before but ill be starting my upgrades soon and this was helpful
I love your channel just started my 14 Mirrocraft project
Good luck!
Thank you!
Great introduction
I like this! im doing the same on mu quicksilver 450SX at the moment!!! big thumps up!!
How do you know the boat is level? Better way would be to set a straight edge (2x4) across the top of boat (Across Gunnels) and measure down. That is the Eziest way I’ve found in my builds. That way if boat isn’t Exactly Level…..which is difficult. Most boat subfloors go right to the top of each rib. Probably Really close to where your ending up with your frame. FYI. Just a suggestion for the viewers. But all in all I love your videos. Very informative.
I will mention this in my next video
This helped me out a lot I have similar haul vhaul Lund boat
I do like the insight
I have been watching your videos to gain strength and venture into that change, I have a Lowen 1667 model 2000. My question is: How long have your modifications lasted due to the pop rivets, and if these modifications affect the floor or the magazines by loosening them or making Are there cracks in the floor? Thank you, greetings from Mexico (Tampico, Tamps)
hell yeah man, looks good!
Dope videos!!
Thank you!
Thank you!! I am wanting to "modify" my v hull.
No prob!
Nice Job......
nice and clean
Awesome video buddy this really helps
Thanks for the info
Tight work
Great video! Subscribed!
Awesome video
How would I do this to help flow of water to drain plug?
Nice!!
Looking great there. I have similar boat style with those ribs. Water exiting thru and to the back is a head scratcher. Maybe making holes thru the ribs down the middle. Curious to see what you come up with.
Are you guys in Lake Havasu? I'll be down there in a little over a month and would love to swing by if so. Thanks. cheers
Such a cool build. I love this whole approach. Such a nice ride in a v-bottom, and especially love the deep bow on some of the older Lund v-bottom skiffs. That said I’m looking for a flat-bottom 1648, or maybe even a 1752 or 1852, to build. It makes sense what you’re saying about storage space, plus it seems like the flat-bottoms are less likely to get hung up on stuff in skinny water. Also I want to put space for a small berthing area towards the stern for overnight hunting trips when I’m not using it for fishing, so I’d like a few extra feet of length.
Hey I’m curious about something - some boatbuilders caution against the use of a level when working on boats. They instead talk about using squares, compass calipers, dividers, triangles, rulers, contour gauges, and other tools like that to ensure precision and uniformity. Is the boat on a level work surface? Are the port and starboard gunwales are precisely level from bow to stern? How is she riding in the water? Does she sit flat, or does she list to one side?
Hi Ryan, quick question. I'm about to lay the aluminum floor down. How do I secure the seats and other things to the floor?
Hey man, I have a 1965 crestliner sportsman 16 ft boat . Similar to this boat , where the floor is flat at the back and gradually tappers to a v. Not super deep tho. I have 4 benches . My question is , if I remove those benches and add this subfloor will it compromise the structure and stability of the boat?
I’m seriously considering gutting all the work I’ve put into my boat and redoing the subfloor again. I didn’t do it anywhere close to this. I tried to seal the entire thing like you did previously on a flat bottom jon boat.
I would just keep going with it. If you're not too far in the process then think about it but if you're pretty far in I would just finish it
Alright this might be a stupid question but do you have to rivet it t the ribs or can you make the sub floor removable
Rivet it to the ribs
Hey sorry if you already mentioned it, but is it possible to out the fllor level with the waterline to increase underfloor storage or would that compromise stability. Love the channel man thanks alot.
I would not cut any framing out in the subfloor. You can put foam elsewhere, but the subfloor still needs to be rigid.
Are those aluminum or steel kits?
Aluminum
@@TinyBoatNation ..Right on thanks!
Would there be anything wrong with only doing the back half of the boat with sub floor and pour foam?
No reserve boyancy if you spear a wave.
@@TinyBoatNation Thanks for the response! So what should I do if I have a bench in the front and back but don’t want to remove them? That’s the issue, it’s a 14ft Tracker that someone took out the middle bench and decked it all with wood.
How come you don't add " feet" to the vertical support? I believe it would help spread the point of pressure on the hull .. thanks
You can do that. It’s sitting right in the gusset so it doesn’t seem like an issue. I may change it
What size blind rivets did you use ?
I checked out the kit I need confirmation on the thickness of the angle pieces
1/16”
@@TinyBoatNation that was for the floor ?
Whats a good RIVET GUN to get? Rivet size/type?
Milwaukee rivet tool. It will handle all size rivets, except for 1/4.
Hi, I have a 1988 Lund 12ft Aluminum and I just want to add a bow trolling motor and a basic sub floor. Is there one or more of your videos you can recommend for the guy that doesn't want to rebuild the whole boat just wanting to make those 2 basic upgrades? And I absolutely enjoy your videos..
I just did those mods to this boat recently. Check put the series!
First off love the videos will be buying a subfloor kit soon. When dining the foam I'm not getting with the garden hose Is for ??
It's for draining water that collects to the side.
I am in the process of using angle 1x1 by 1/16" to build my subfloor. My concern with using 2 part foam is will it become waterlogged if an issue was to occur? I pulled out 460lbs of wet foam from the boat and I am really concerned with the same thing happening again down the road. I like the idea of it chemically bonding to the hull and helping with sound dampening. Looking for advice. I don't ever want to rip out foam again. Plan to build all framing out of angle aluminum. I have a V hull starcraft boat 16'.
If you do not take care of your boat, yes
@@TinyBoatNation thanks. Just obtained this boat from my uncle and it sat for 20 years uncovered. I plan to put foam in the compartments and bench seats above the water line to prevent sinking. I really don't want to put foam below the water line in the boat as it is a nightmare when it gets wet. Thanks for the info
I have a very similar boat.when drilling and riveting, I'm assuming the gussets are hollow? Just wanna make sure that is the best place to rivet to?
Yes, they are hollow
@@TinyBoatNation how far do you drill? Just enough to get through?
@@SGTshankem yes it'll pop and that's it. Don't drill through the hull. I was nervous the first time too. use a 1/8 or 1/4 inch rivet with a 3/16th drill bit I believe.
How did you notch out the vertical support square tube to fit over the rib?
A hole saw
Been waiting for this one. Do you have a strong preference to v or flat hull of stability and longevity are your priority?
I favor v hulls
is that a drill bit on impact driver? how do I make that happen?
Get impact-ready drill bits. They are everywhere!
Get impact-ready drill bits. They are everywhere!
What thickness of aluminum angle did you use?
1/16"
Are you still actively redoing this, or is it on the backburner? I was searching on yours, Fireant's and Anthony Jones' pages for deep v builds with all aluminum framing. My Mirrocraft drain channel was plugged by the former owner's hatchet paint job. Will be doing your setup going forward and am looking forward to the framing section!
It's still getting built. videos are just slow to come.
Hay why have yall not used the aluminum brazing rods on here in so long??
Because they suck
great video! What does your wrist band say?
God is bigger
@@TinyBoatNation I have a 1958 14 foot star craft. what I use to plug the same drain bung is a 3/4 inch expandable live well plug.
How do I get in on the giveaway?
Like, subscribe and share my videos
Yellow tools??! 😭 😭 😆
It was a Christmas gift card
I noticed that right off the bat!! I like my yellow tools tho!! That’s pretty much all I use! I’m a heating and air guy so i like my power tools!
Over monitized.