I really need to get it rideable for this year. Mechanically I think it's all ready--all the bodywork and a few electrical accessories are just a mess though.
Determination is going to be necessary with this basket case. Every time I look I find a new, interesting problem. We'll get there though. I think I've got the wiring harness figured out--possibly the reg/rectifier as well. Used set of carburetors coming that I'll need to transfer some parts over to. Once I get it running right, tires and wheel bearings are up next. I don't even want to think about what I'll need to do to repair the body work yet! Good luck when you pick one up! Be thorough when checking it out. Nothing you find will be perfect (even near it, likely), but ask as many questions from the owner as you can. That time is usually very valuable.
They can certainly be frustrating. By far the most difficult part is mating the two pairs together. It's just a weird balancing act and 3d visualization of how the fuel tube's and air vents are suppose to connect. Somebody that's got a lot of practice can probably do it blindfolded though (not me).
Matt, max. voltage should be ~15V. You might expect nominal values to be ~14.0 volts at idle and mid-14's with revs. 16.6V seems like a reasonable value for rectified, but NON-REGULATED output from the R/R. Recommend leaving the stator, replace the R/R. hth.
Thanks for the information Phil. That explanation makes sense. I'm reading through some of the really long threads here about R/R and stator tests, and I'm going to give some of those a shot. I ordered some new connectors as well. Sounds like I'll get to use that "Diode" test setting you introduced me to on the multimeter again, hah.
I'm looking forward to watching more on this bike.. like you I have the 4 into 1 exhaust and it sounds sweet 😁.. soon I'll be doing almost a complete overhaul on mine with a new paint job..
Want to do mine while you're at it? 😛 I'm just struggling through the electrical now trying to fix the wiring harness. Got that reinstalled last night. Hopefully I have a secondary set of carburetors sourced that'll be coming. The damage to this one is just too much. I'd need to replace the batterfly valves entirely which is more than just finding a replacement carburetor.
@@matttriestodothings I saw a full set for like 290 on eBay.. I was also thinking of getting them as a backup to easy swap out when they get gummed up.. I'm going to try and find the best solution for making all the electrical connections clean and solid besides replacing all pins.. if you find a good way let me know 🙂.
@@cwwCADAVER I think I was probably looking at the same ebay set and almost pulled the trigger on it. Found someone else that was willing to part with a set, but that one looked very good. I think it's TD Motorcycles or something that listed it? If you've got a good set tho, I'm not sure what a second set will do for you. They really shouldn't gum up much unless you're leaving them for years untouched.
Thank you. Electrical is a weak point of mine. I did swap the r/r and it appears to have resolved this issue. Now I just need to get to the remaining ones!
Look up "vinscoot tubes" on eBay. He's who I bought them from, and I'm glad to have gotten them. They're pricey, but he's making a durable product nobody else is providing. I think a full set is $95 shipped in the US right now for a VFR700/750.
I've used both Partzilla and Revzilla in the past. Partzilla likely to have most of the odds and ands you might need. You're paying OEM prices though. www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1986/vfr700f-a-interceptor Another place to look is to talk to Joe at V4Dreams. Check his storefront to find out if he carries some of the items you need. v4dreams.com/products.html
I'm almost positive they have different carburetors. I'm googling images for VF750 (84/85), and the plenum that mounts to the airbox looks completely different. The 86 VFR 700/750F is a very different motor than than the previous VF750 in that it received a bit of an overhaul--namely, the change from chain driven cams to gear driven cams. I could be wrong, but I don't think that much from the two engines are interchangeable. I haven't had my hands on a VF750 though.
Boo! I feel like I chose the absolute worst Honda to restore... It shares no parts with the 500 or the 750 and the motor is different than the magna/sabre bikes as well.
@@AKIRA39011 Honda went wild on the vf/VFR line during this time period. So little of it is interchangeable. Even the 84/5 vs 86 vf500f has a large amount of differences including a different carburetor.
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That sounds so awesome.
I really need to get it rideable for this year. Mechanically I think it's all ready--all the bodywork and a few electrical accessories are just a mess though.
Determination is you're #1 tool. I'm looking forward to future videos as I intend to purchase one of these & your experiences will help.
Determination is going to be necessary with this basket case. Every time I look I find a new, interesting problem. We'll get there though. I think I've got the wiring harness figured out--possibly the reg/rectifier as well. Used set of carburetors coming that I'll need to transfer some parts over to. Once I get it running right, tires and wheel bearings are up next. I don't even want to think about what I'll need to do to repair the body work yet!
Good luck when you pick one up! Be thorough when checking it out. Nothing you find will be perfect (even near it, likely), but ask as many questions from the owner as you can. That time is usually very valuable.
One look at those carbs and I get a headache, I would get so frustrated working on them.
They can certainly be frustrating. By far the most difficult part is mating the two pairs together. It's just a weird balancing act and 3d visualization of how the fuel tube's and air vents are suppose to connect. Somebody that's got a lot of practice can probably do it blindfolded though (not me).
Matt, max. voltage should be ~15V. You might expect nominal values to be ~14.0 volts at idle and mid-14's with revs. 16.6V seems like a reasonable value for rectified, but NON-REGULATED output from the R/R. Recommend leaving the stator, replace the R/R. hth.
Thanks for the information Phil. That explanation makes sense. I'm reading through some of the really long threads here about R/R and stator tests, and I'm going to give some of those a shot. I ordered some new connectors as well. Sounds like I'll get to use that "Diode" test setting you introduced me to on the multimeter again, hah.
I'm looking forward to watching more on this bike.. like you I have the 4 into 1 exhaust and it sounds sweet 😁.. soon I'll be doing almost a complete overhaul on mine with a new paint job..
Want to do mine while you're at it? 😛 I'm just struggling through the electrical now trying to fix the wiring harness. Got that reinstalled last night. Hopefully I have a secondary set of carburetors sourced that'll be coming. The damage to this one is just too much. I'd need to replace the batterfly valves entirely which is more than just finding a replacement carburetor.
@@matttriestodothings I saw a full set for like 290 on eBay.. I was also thinking of getting them as a backup to easy swap out when they get gummed up.. I'm going to try and find the best solution for making all the electrical connections clean and solid besides replacing all pins.. if you find a good way let me know 🙂.
@@cwwCADAVER I think I was probably looking at the same ebay set and almost pulled the trigger on it. Found someone else that was willing to part with a set, but that one looked very good. I think it's TD Motorcycles or something that listed it?
If you've got a good set tho, I'm not sure what a second set will do for you. They really shouldn't gum up much unless you're leaving them for years untouched.
i have the same bike X3. a faulty stator never puts out too much voltage, only less. so the charging problem is the r/r.
Thank you. Electrical is a weak point of mine. I did swap the r/r and it appears to have resolved this issue. Now I just need to get to the remaining ones!
You mention replacement metal fuel tubes csn you give details on were you purchased thease
Look up "vinscoot tubes" on eBay. He's who I bought them from, and I'm glad to have gotten them. They're pricey, but he's making a durable product nobody else is providing. I think a full set is $95 shipped in the US right now for a VFR700/750.
Great video. Where can I find fuel tubes mine are cracked
Joe at V4Dreams will have fuel line kits. v4dreams.com/products.html
Or you can just go out and buy 3ft of Motion Pro Tygon fuel tubing (what I did).
Is there another place other than eBay to get parts
I've used both Partzilla and Revzilla in the past. Partzilla likely to have most of the odds and ands you might need. You're paying OEM prices though. www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1986/vfr700f-a-interceptor
Another place to look is to talk to Joe at V4Dreams. Check his storefront to find out if he carries some of the items you need. v4dreams.com/products.html
Matt, do the 85 and 86 vf700 and vfr700 have the same motor and carbs?
I'm almost positive they have different carburetors. I'm googling images for VF750 (84/85), and the plenum that mounts to the airbox looks completely different.
The 86 VFR 700/750F is a very different motor than than the previous VF750 in that it received a bit of an overhaul--namely, the change from chain driven cams to gear driven cams.
I could be wrong, but I don't think that much from the two engines are interchangeable. I haven't had my hands on a VF750 though.
Boo! I feel like I chose the absolute worst Honda to restore... It shares no parts with the 500 or the 750 and the motor is different than the magna/sabre bikes as well.
@@AKIRA39011 Honda went wild on the vf/VFR line during this time period. So little of it is interchangeable. Even the 84/5 vs 86 vf500f has a large amount of differences including a different carburetor.