Thanks for the video and the correct information. I have a 5203 and getting ready to do this next project on routine maintance. Mine has only been change once and by hearing how the engine is running. It is time for it.
You did a great job of explaining the process. My tractor started right away after following your instructions and that of W Reid where he suggested to fill the new filter with fuel. Three to four pumps and that process was done. Thank you for your post.
Thanks for sharing! It worked on my 5410. I had run it out of fuel and decided to change the filter while bleeding. Took me quite awhile to bleed all the air with the pump but your tutorial was really helpful!
Thanks for this post. I got my 2003 5103 going today with this info, I had gunk in everything, the primer pump was nasty and I had to take line going to the injector pump loose and clean it out. I let the line from the fuel tank run until trash quit coming out with the diesel fuel. I put a new fuel filter in and pumped the primer about 30 times. It wouldn't crank and after several attempts I loosed the line at the fuel injector to see if fuel was there. It was so I tightened it up and kept cranking til it finally fired up. I now am getting 4k+ rpm where before it was only 2700-3000. I just bought the tractor recently, evidently the previous owner never changed the fuel filter at 928 hours on the tractor.
Good video. Had a bad cold start sensor(temp switch) and in the process I had moved the red cap which at the time I didn't realize it was a fuel shutoff. Thought it was a bleeder valve with a cap on it.
You should always fill your new filter with fuel before installing it. If you have trouble starting it, after using the primer pump, do as Soggy B suggested while you start it.
Here is another tip for you. If your JD tractor has it's fuel tank on the rear of the tractor, as does both of mine, the vent for the tank is in the fuel cap. While bailing, there is a constant dust cloud on the rear of the tractor, and when the fuel sloshes around in the tank, because the vent is in the cap, dust is constantly being pulled into the fuel tank. Solution, check and clean the under rim of your cap, reinstall it and put a coffee filter over it with a large rubber band every time you fuel up. My filer changes in hay season went from 3 filter per year to once annually. I also put a filter ( Fram G - 1 fuel filter) on all transmissions and differentials vent pipes to filter out dust and dirt.
My 5105 was low on fuel and I had to fix something in a horse pasture. It was a very steep hill and it died. I came into the house to find info on bleeding the line and found your clip. The throttle lever is what got it started. But when it did start it rolled backwards and almost ran me over. My truck stopped it. I don't know why it rolled because I had everything locked and down. I drove it out and looked at my truck to see the damage. NOT A SCRATCH! I guess God really does favor the foolish!
This did help me understand the fuel separator. My problem started when the fuel started leaking out the top of the pump plunger. I don't know why this happened.
I Have Same Leaking At the top of pump Plunger it's not showing up in the John deer parts catalog either? I'll come back here and post what I fine when I get to the dealer
It is also helpful when changing these filters, to pre-fill them with fuel before slideing them into place. It will save a lot of wear and tear on the plunger.
You ever have the secondary filter get stuck? I’ve got 2017 5100e. Replaced primary by the secondary is so tight I can’t get off with channel locks or oil filter wrench. I mean it’s stuck! Need to change it tho it’s about time. I’ve serviced everything but that simply because I can’t get it off. I don’t know what to do to get it out other than bend the old filter up trying to pull it off
The primers on these were a poor design, they have a tendency to get crap in them that prevents the primer from creating suction to pull the fuel through. A JD dealer wanted $85 for a new part, plus labor to switch it out. I took it off, and cleaned it with soap and water, and blew the crap out with compressed air, there was quite a bit. Cleaned it, dried it, put it back on and it worked like a gem.
thanks for taking the time good video, I have the exact same tractor and it would not start the book said bleed the line you mentioned but I had no Idea about the bleeder valve thanks. My next issue is the dam 6 wire light switch on the dash my high beam only lights will not work. I took the dash apart and went and bought a new switch same problem 1 leg of the switch will not work, going back to deere this weekend to see what they say driving me nuts. The other 5 positions work fine.
It's not always that simple. On the 5203, these primers were a poor design, and have a tendency to get clogged with crap. Where he suggests taking off the primer, and cleaning it with simple green, yes that will clean it, but it may need to be blown out with compressed air. While it's off, you can test to see if it will create a suction.
Here is another tip for you if your JD tractor looses power. Some JD models, and even the JD dealers don't know which models, or why they put them on, have a filter in the line from the tank to the filter shown in this video. It works as a per-filter to the main filter and looks like a lawn mower filter and will clog long before the main large filter shown on the video will ever clog. I take them off and do NOT replace them, for $35. You can see it here, second from the left. www.google.com/#q=john+deere%2C+5240%2C+fuel+filter There is also a one way check valve in the line from the tank to the filter shown in the video that prevents the fuel from draining back to the tank when the tractor is shut off. If this valve gets clogged, and after sitting over night it will not, you will have to prime the entire system. This valve can be cleaned with WD-40. Be sure to replace allowing the fuel to flow in the right direction, to the engine filter. TBC
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One of the best how to's I have see lately. Does not waste time on entertainment and I am's. Great info and very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for the video and the correct information. I have a 5203 and getting ready to do this next project on routine maintance. Mine has only been change once and by hearing how the engine is running. It is time for it.
You did a great job of explaining the process. My tractor started right away after following your instructions and that of W Reid where he suggested to fill the new filter with fuel. Three to four pumps and that process was done. Thank you for your post.
Thanks for sharing! It worked on my 5410. I had run it out of fuel and decided to change the filter while bleeding. Took me quite awhile to bleed all the air with the pump but your tutorial was really helpful!
Thanks for this post. I got my 2003 5103 going today with this info, I had gunk in everything, the primer pump was nasty and I had to take line going to the injector pump loose and clean it out. I let the line from the fuel tank run until trash quit coming out with the diesel fuel. I put a new fuel filter in and pumped the primer about 30 times. It wouldn't crank and after several attempts I loosed the line at the fuel injector to see if fuel was there. It was so I tightened it up and kept cranking til it finally fired up. I now am getting 4k+ rpm where before it was only 2700-3000. I just bought the tractor recently, evidently the previous owner never changed the fuel filter at 928 hours on the tractor.
Also I filled the filter with fuel before installing.
Good video. Had a bad cold start sensor(temp switch) and in the process I had moved the red cap which at the time I didn't realize it was a fuel shutoff. Thought it was a bleeder valve with a cap on it.
Thank you...I have the same tractor...a d in the process of changing fuel filter now...thanks
You should always fill your new filter with fuel before installing it. If you have trouble starting it, after using the primer pump, do as Soggy B suggested while you start it.
A good tip to help. If you fill the new fuel filter with fuel then install it, you won't have to bleed the line.
Here is another tip for you.
If your JD tractor has it's fuel tank
on the rear of the tractor, as does both of mine, the vent for the
tank is in the fuel cap. While bailing, there is a constant dust
cloud on the rear of the tractor, and when the fuel sloshes around in
the tank, because the vent is in the cap, dust is constantly being
pulled into the fuel tank.
Solution, check and clean the under rim
of your cap, reinstall it and put a coffee filter over it with a
large rubber band every time you fuel up. My filer changes in hay
season went from 3 filter per year to once annually.
I also put a filter ( Fram G - 1
fuel filter) on all transmissions and differentials vent pipes to
filter out dust and dirt.
It also helps to fill your fuel filter full of diesel fuel and will probably start without all that pumping
My 5105 was low on fuel and I had to fix something in a horse pasture. It was a very steep hill and it died. I came into the house to find info on bleeding the line and found your clip. The throttle lever is what got it started. But when it did start it rolled backwards and almost ran me over. My truck stopped it. I don't know why it rolled because I had everything locked and down. I drove it out and looked at my truck to see the damage. NOT A SCRATCH! I guess God really does favor the foolish!
This did help me understand the fuel separator. My problem started when the fuel started leaking out the top of the pump plunger. I don't know why this happened.
I Have Same Leaking At the top of pump Plunger it's not showing up in the John deer parts catalog either? I'll come back here and post what I fine when I get to the dealer
Thanks for the great help.
It is also helpful when changing these filters, to pre-fill them with fuel before slideing them into place. It will save a lot of wear and tear on the plunger.
Thank you for your suggestion 3 to 4 pumps and the bleeding process was completed.
W Reid
True.
You ever have the secondary filter get stuck? I’ve got 2017 5100e. Replaced primary by the secondary is so tight I can’t get off with channel locks or oil filter wrench. I mean it’s stuck! Need to change it tho it’s about time. I’ve serviced everything but that simply because I can’t get it off. I don’t know what to do to get it out other than bend the old filter up trying to pull it off
Thanks, having the same problem with my 5403 right now. I'll bleed it and try again.
The primers on these were a poor design, they have a tendency to get crap in them that prevents the primer from creating suction to pull the fuel through. A JD dealer wanted $85 for a new part, plus labor to switch it out. I took it off, and cleaned it with soap and water, and blew the crap out with compressed air, there was quite a bit. Cleaned it, dried it, put it back on and it worked like a gem.
thanks for taking the time good video, I have the exact same tractor and it would not start the book said bleed the line you mentioned but I had no Idea about the bleeder valve thanks. My next issue is the dam 6 wire light switch on the dash my high beam only lights will not work. I took the dash apart and went and bought a new switch same problem 1 leg of the switch will not work, going back to deere this weekend to see what they say driving me nuts. The other 5 positions work fine.
Thanks for sharing, it helped a lot!
Done 1000s of these,next time fill the filter up with fuel,secure filter,crank motor and BAM no pumping or bleeding
Just open the bleeder on the bottom of the filter crank till you get fuel. Close bleeder. Push pump a few times. Done.
It's not always that simple. On the 5203, these primers were a poor design, and have a tendency to get clogged with crap. Where he suggests taking off the primer, and cleaning it with simple green, yes that will clean it, but it may need to be blown out with compressed air. While it's off, you can test to see if it will create a suction.
Great job its was a lot of help.
I can not get the audio with this video....
I am getting a leak from around the filter after putting the new filter on and the collar is difficult to reinstall....any thoughts?
Here is another tip for you if your JD
tractor looses power.
Some JD models, and even the JD dealers
don't know which models, or why they put them on, have a filter in
the line from the tank to the filter shown in this video. It works as
a per-filter to the main filter and looks like a lawn mower filter
and will clog long before the main large filter shown on the video
will ever clog. I take them off and do NOT replace them, for $35.
You can see it here, second from the
left.
www.google.com/#q=john+deere%2C+5240%2C+fuel+filter
There is also a one way check valve in
the line from the tank to the filter shown in the video that prevents
the fuel from draining back to the tank when the tractor is shut off.
If this valve gets clogged, and after sitting over night it will not,
you will have to prime the entire system. This valve can be cleaned
with WD-40. Be sure to replace allowing the fuel to flow in the right
direction, to the engine filter.
TBC
Anyone know what the part # is for the fuel filter?
33548
thanks
Found it!
Here is a pic of the fuel line check
valve. My JD had the one on the right.
www.google.com/#q=john+deere+fuel+line+check+valve
Thanks