Hobby Cheating 01 - Basic Cheats & Timesavers
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2015
- In this hobby video, I walk you through some of the basic cheats and timesaving tools I use every day when hobbying on Wargaming miniatures. The focus here is the most bang for the least (or no) dollars. Share your own low-cost tricks below!
Zap Accelerator: www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technolog...
Blue Tack: www.amazon.com/Loctite-1087306... - เกม
Best hobby trick is taking pictures of your mini's from farther away so no one can tell how bad the paint job is. :)
+ThePeacemaker848 That's a good trick for sure. ;)
Dear Vince.
5 years ago on this date you published the first video on youtube in the series Hobby Cheating. Congratulations, Vince and thank you. I hope you never cease to produce new content.
I am very fascinated of the wealth of knowledge you share and your willingness to show and to teach how to.
I have not followed your videos from day one. In fact I think I found your channel this year.
Painting miniatures is not completely new to me. 15mm Napoleonic Austrian Hungarians, 1/1200 1812 US Ships (Langton) and a rather large Tau army are some of my completed projects but I have been taking
extended breaks from painting.
Earlier this year I returned to painting the miniatures for The Wasteland Express Delivery Service board game and got interested in the hobby again.
First leap was to try to learn to use a wet palette and I'm still learning and getting better but it is a complete change from using a dry one.
Then I started to look for techniques and how to improve and somehow found your channel.
At first I tried to watch all videos from the first one and forward. Then I got interested in those with focus on techniques. My eyes saw it and my ears heard it and my brain thought
it understood it. Yet I used quite a lot of time to buy stuff as if that alone makes one a better painter.
The first real step was to try a use zenitial priming. I didn't really get that much out of it as I had a habit of focusing on 100% opacity instead of making use of the undercoating.
I did make undercoating work on a few parts of a model but not enough. Then I sort felt that I was running around from technique to technique mostly falling flat on my face (Steel NMM I'm looking at you).
The videos on painting horns and the one on striations on horns helped me immensely. Thinning black ink to paint thin lines helped a lot too. I got some results on my 3rd edition Blood Orcs that made me
smile and they still do make me smile.
Pushing contrasts was and is still a leap for me but the next bunch of orcs are improving. And that, Vince, is you merit.
To return to zenitial priming I decided to go full throttle and to do it like in the video on preparing for the best paintjob. At first I was very reluctant but then I found Dana Howls channel and got
fascinated on her take on zenitial priming and using underpainting to the maximum. Her squiq painting video made something click in my mind.
Then I returned to your teachings again and I use your videos as a tome to lookup how-tos all the time.
It is as always with me: I use an inordinate large amount of time studing and watching, "walking around" the "task", looking at it, thinking of it, taking detours and stumbling, getting up again and when my
brain has stopped worrying and complaining I pick up my brush and try it out. And thanks to you I can make it work (not NMM yet, that is quite likely outside my zone of learning so far (perhaps because other paints than
Vallejo Model Color would suit that style better and I'm a bit reluctant to go out and buy even more paints)) In danish: "Går rundt som en kat om den varme grød".
One could say I take the long way around the block but I get there eventually. Also I picture myself as a worse painter than I am and I return to videos for beginners which do enlighten me at some point but I also find out that
"Hey I know that, I can do that".
So, Vince, thanks to you, I am improving and please don't cease your work. You are unique. You are one of a kind. And kind.
Thank you.
Best Regards
Peter Rasch Lageri.
Denmark.
That is amazing, I had no idea of the anniversary. I am deeply grateful for the kind words and I am always happy to help.
Take a kiddies felt-tip pen, pull out the ink sponge and let the tip dry out. You now have a very firm, yet absorbent, point for applying dots (e.g. boils, sea dragon cloaks, etc.) with slightly watered down paint from a wet pallette.
For beginners, it's much easier than using a fine-tipped brush, which will will buckle when pressed against a model and may require at least some lateral movement across its surface.
Now that is a cool idea. Any particular brand of pen you have had good luck with. I love this idea and want to experiment with it.
I only bought a generic pound store pen, and it seemed fine. Can't find it on Google Images, but it has this kind of long, firm and straight tip:
c8.alamy.com/comp/BMA7C6/red-green-and-blue-felt-tip-pen-squiggles-on-white-paper-BMA7C6.jpg
I'm certain professional inkers (guess the 1990's movie reference: "You're just a tracer!") have all sorts of fine tips that may allow for potentially hitting things like eyes on a model.
I'm sure you forgot about this post/suggestion a long time ago, but I'm going to try this!😁
Bamboo skewers are like the Swiss army knife of hobbying, I use em for so many things. The bamboo is more rigid than the wood of toothpicks so the point holds up well to scraping and poking like cleaning up paint on an aircraft canopy, I glue baby clothespins on the ends of them to hold small parts for spray painting, they are good stirrers, and also better than the tip of tweezers for grabbing that stubborn corner of masking tape without scratching a surface. Applying decals (transfers), poking holes in foam terrain to help drywall mud or spackle to adhere better, I've even used them as a spotter or stippler for painting chips and weathering. They are also killer with pineapples and shrimp on the grill!! Or steak and morels!
Completely agree (especially on the pineapples and shrimp). :)
"Corks!... Hit up your friend who is a slight alcoholic or may have a problem. Turn their problem into your solution!"
I say find the silver lining - make some lemonade ;)
Probably one of the funniest lines you have ever said :-D
@Justin Ellis what do i do with all the used needles, spent bullet casings, and crack pipes laying around my neighborhood?
That just made my day xD .
I actually feel I shall find the learning process quite entertaining while watching your videos :) .
Watching the hobby Cheating series from the beginning while working on a terrain build and getting somethings reorganized.
Spray paint tops!!!
I use the edge of a mechanical pencil lead to put easy highlights on things like belts and such.
Other cheap things that help a lot:
An old toothbrush - it can either be one that's no longer suitable for cleaning your teeth, or even one of the sort that your dentist hands out for free. Or if all else fails, get one at the dollar store. Good for cleaning grit, flash and bits of plastic or resin off of models after you've scraped mold lines or sanded. Good for cleaning off mold release with dish soap and warm water. Good for stripping miniatures.
A pencil box - another dollar store purchase. Good for keeping all of your other tools in one place, and maybe a separate one for your brushes if you store them that way. Worlds better than letting them just lay around on your desk or in a drawer.
Emery boards - not the flat, hard, cardboard ones. Get the kind that is sort of flexible and a bit spongy. You'll have a coarse side and a finer side. Good for sanding away the bead of plastic on the seam between two properly joined plastic parts. Cheap at drugstores or cheaper still if you get the ones your girlfriend can no longer use on her nails.
A floss organizer - get these at a craft store. People who do needlepoint or cross-stitch use them to keep their thread, but they make great organizers for your bits box. You can keep each type of bit (weapons, heads, whatever) in its own separate little compartment. They only cost a few dollars.
I will disagree with you on the pin vise. Cheaper is not better when comfort and control are of utmost importance. As you said when using a paint cap to stick your mini to, your hands will cramp holding small stuff. Even more when you are turning it. That means it's harder to control precisely... like when you are drilling out weapon barrels. Plus, the heel of your hand is going to get irritated by that end. For a few dollars more you can get one with a rotating pommel, increasing your comfort and control. Worth the little extra investment.
Great suggestions and totally fair. I guess I have used the cheap one for years and it never bothered me, but I can completely see where you are coming from. In the end, the tools that work for you are usually the right ones. :)
HeadHunter an old toothbrush is ideal for many of the examples you laid out, especially scrubbing mold release agent from resin models. I've found, however, that a large soft makeup brush (foundation brush, possibly? I don't know these things...) is amazing at gently getting rid of filing or scraped detritus as you sharpen details or remove lines. The toothbrush (even a soft bristle) is a bit too tough for some fragile pieces. They cost a couple bucks at a drugstore.
I got the thinner and glaze medium. Really impressed how thin the paint gets and the paint is easier to work with.
Excellent, happy they help, I truly love them.
I am brand new to miniature painting. This video has helped me tremendously. Especially the zip kicker portion. I didn't know it existed. Never heard of it. It took my gluing pieces to a new level. Thank you. I'll be watching every video in your cheating series.
Excellent, happy to help as always and always happy to answers questions as you go through the videos. :)
My trick for accelerating superglue is to use sodium bicarbonate, some people know it as baking soda I think. I use it for when I know that a miniature has a very tiny point of contact, like a foot being half lifted, or when there is a massive figure and I cannot manage to get it to stick long enough to leave in a position to cure.
But the bad effect is that you end up with a lot extra materials and texture, and that it is not that easy to use. But then again, I was using that when I was 12, so thank you for showing me a more modern version which probably looks so much better. I will try it myself.
Happy to help!
I usually use acrylic floor polish for both thinning and glazing; very handy stuff.
Yep, I have never tried it, but many artists I trust swear by it.
That's a great tip! Thanks.
Some great advice here. I use baking soda instead of the zip kicker. Sprinkle a bit of baking soda on one piece and CA glue on the other. It will set almost instantly when they come into contact with each other. Anyhow, I really appreciate this series. Easily the most useful resource I've found on youtube for the hobby.
Thank you, glad to help as always. :)
I really like your videos and am glad you have taken the time to make so many on such a variety of different techniques. I also like the way you usually have several ways to get the job done. I am just starting out in airbrushing and it makes the learning curve way easier to see what works and creates the desired effects.
You have a very calm and precise way about you. You also seem to have the ability to always listen and learn from others which is a very good thing indeed.
I appreciate the work you do and the help you've given so many' keep up the great vids. Alex B.
Wow, that is very high praise I am not sure I deserve, but I am very glad to hear the videos help, that is always the goal. My purpose in the videos is only to help people take the next step in their hobby journey. I think I approach things the way I do because I know there is no platonic perfect way to paint a miniature or exact technique to achieve something, it's about experimenting, finding your style and finding what works for you.
As to the listening to others, if I have any talent in this art, then 95% of it at least comes from listening to others and taking their advice. So I think I owe others a lot and better keep listening :)
Thanks for watching and commenting, it's very much appreciated.
So... just discover this series on nº 149... and now i've 147 new videos to watch, and a looooot to learn.
It's a long series, I mean realistically, not all of them are good, so you have have like 130 tops. ;)
Vince Venturella I guess i have no choice than going the extra mile and watch all of them, just in case ;)
Thanks a bunch! Just getting started with the hobby and this is a massive help👍🏻
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Literally one of the best video sets I've seen
Hobby cheats should be on every new painters MUST watch list
Way to go
Ps congrats on the new game release looks insanely fun!
Thank you on both counts. :)
Great video, loving all your tips. Especially the paper clips for pinning rather than forking out on expensive job specific pins. Zip Kicker sounds very intriguing! Just for the record I've found it in the UK! :-)
I couldn't live without my zip kicker. THe paper clips continue to be one of my hobby essentials 160 videos later. :)
This is a great video, lots of good tips and some of them are new to me too. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to watch more. I will need to do some purchase in amazon soon ...
+Victor Ques (Neojarlaxe) Well, at least most of what I am I saying is cheap, so there is that to soften the blow ;)
Great tips here Vince. I keep bluetac in my carry case too in case of immediate repairs
It's very important, I cannot explain the number of times I have had to reglue a witch elf foot.
Like this kind of videos a lot!!! Thanks man, the Amazon cart is filling up^^
+Kevin Lorenz Glad to be able to help sir!
So fun to see "Episode One"...likely your best "novice painter" video for starting out, actually very helpful...👍👍❤🤣🤣🤣❤👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good tips. I use all your suggestions (except accelerant, but I'm in the uk). I also use loads of jam jars. very useful for holding brushes and clean water. especially useful with airbrushing to have a bug reservoir of clean water for pipetting into the brush and cleaning it.
+amBasteir It is such a shame about the Accelerator for the UK. Good point on the jars, I always try to keep plenty of fresh water for sure, nice additional tip.
Hi Vince and thanks for another great video. I used corks when I first started painting as it was so easy to collect as many of my parents friends drank wine, so they were free and thin making it easy to reach all parts of the miniture :-)
Absolutely, the corks I use are usually "donations" from my wife. ;)
@@VinceVenturella :-))
I always have a piece of 400er sand paper around while I'm assembling minis. It's super handy to smooth down mold lines where the knife simply isn't enough.
+Kevin Lorenz You are more patient than me. I go 80 and 200, I don't have the patience for 400 ;)
Just found this after restarting the hobby with AOS (GW's silver tower tactic worked), and I just have to thank you for the amazing videos! If you have a patreon or something like it, think this is definitely worth supporting. Going to save me money, time and improve my skills! It's really nice with videos going over a lot of the hobby related stuff that Duncan cant on GW's site:)
Glad I was able to help! I don't have a patreon or anything right now, just not something I felt like going down the road of. That being said, the nicest thing you can ever do from my perspective is share the vids if you enjoyed and/or share your own progress. I'm always here to help if you run into any questions.
Thats a nice approach! Think I'll post my first unit either on TGA or the big fb group tomorrow:)
Lookout for Wanderer themed paladins!
Instead of a spray top, I use a section of a bamboo chopstick, superglued to the bottom of the mini's base. This puts the mini on the end of a stick I can move around or tilt my hand to paint in any position to get to any part of the mini. One you are done you just pop the mini off the chopstick. Just another option.
Hi Vince, thanks for another great tutorial. Just a gentle request. I’m mainly a historical wargamer/painter. I wonder if you could look at a tutorial on how you would approach a mounted figure and painting horses.. Many thanks for your outstanding work. 😊👍
Sure, I will add it to the list, but just to be sure, what scale (as Historical varies greatly) and the techniques will change as well.
Vince Venturella Thank you Vince. I plan to build a 28mm Hun army to very high standard and it’s been sitting on the shelf as I was stalled by the huge task. Any help you can give will be hugely appreciated. Thanks again.
Great tips,thank you!!!
+Anders Hjorth Thank you, glad to help!
Instead of the wood skewers I use toothpicks. I use them to stir my paint as do you,with the skewers. I also use them to poke through the dried paint in dropper bottle nozzles. A question about Zip Kicker,do you put the glue on the surface first,or the zip kicker?
+subversive1219 There are two options with zip kicker. If you have 2 pieces, one side glue, one side kicker. Alternatively, glue the two sides together, hold them, drop of kicker on top.
Hi Vince, I discovered your channel a few months ago and what I could say is... Woaw. The content that you bring is amazing, full of interesting tricks and you can make painting videos 30 minutes long funny (and that's something). You're definitely a reason why I came back to the hobby with the purpose to improve my painting skills, so thanks ;)
I used to paint only with paint and water before (no other additives) but after watching your videos I bought some thinner and glaze medium and flow aid. But now I'm bit confused...
Actually, I don't know exactly how these things work and so I don't know when I should add more water/thinner medium/glaze medium/flow aid to my mixture to fix that or that issue or making the painting easier. I mean, okay I guess that the glaze medium purpose is glazing but I don't know why it's more effective than the thinner medium and why I should still add water when the consistency seems good only with the thinner medium...
So I wonder if you intend to make a video to clarify all of this and make the « ultimate guide of additives » (instant subscribe) or if you simply could bring me light, that would be great too :)
Do you mean like this video - th-cam.com/video/FuSFCiLvs1w/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps. ;)
@@VinceVenturella Yes. It's exactly what I meant. I don't understand how I didnt' notice this vid and now I feel a bit dumb :p
Now I understand why my wet agent from Golden (it's the name of their flow aid apparently) makes the paint glossy and not adherant : I have to diluate it (a lot).
Thanks a lot and sorry to bothered you... have a great day ! :)
@@robinlescot5003 It's never a bother, I am here to help (there is like 190 videos, it's easy to miss them. ;) )
I got some large 50mm corks from the local brewing shop. You could probably find them online. Anyway, the size is much more compatible with miniatures and much more sits snuggly in my hand, I think I paid $10 for 10 of them, so economic for batch painting too. The size is so good to work with I much prefer them to the blu-tac + old paint bottle method.
Yep, I ended up picking up a big hobby pack for a few dollars from amazon. The real key is of course to find a nice, round item that holds the miniature well and sits comfortable in your hand. It lets you paint much cleaner, but also greatly reduces strain for long paint sessions. Thanks for watching and commenting with the awesome suggestion.
I did as you suggested, I hunted all around the house and found just what I needed, Furball, freshly coughed up by jasper, stuck it on top of my deodorant can, stuck the model on top, worked perfectly .... came with only one downside, when shaping the brush, it made the brush taste a bit funky when painting the rim of the base. 😎
Perfect, nailed it. ;)
The sticky stuff you're using is called Blu tac, you can get a pack of it for £1. I just had to order some more myself after my older stuff got less tacky from too much paint being sprayed into it over like 5 years.
+Broken Colony Yep, sorry, I thought I used it's proper name, if I didn't I apologize. Mine is in the same way, it's always getting paint or a bit of grit or something mixed in until I just toss it. It's so useful and so cheap given how long it lasts.
+Vince Venturella You later mentioned blue tac (I hadn't got that far) but the white stuff is the exact same stuff without the colouring added. Usually they sell them side by side in stores.
I use hematite beads in my paint pots. I use them to help shake up my paint. Drop one in the paint pot (8mm fits in vallejo droppers) and shake. You need to make sure to use beads that don't react in water. Rust would ruin the color of the paint. So you want some kind of non metallic bead like the hematite.
+Robert Chisholm Nice, I had also heard of people using pure copper, but the hematite is a good call!
Robert Chisholm as I discovered recently, hematite is actually iron, but entirely corroded (it's iron oxide), so won't corrode anymore and shouldn't spoil your paints.
glass would be better. It doesn't react to almost anything. Hematite , although the oxidised form of iron, will NOT be 100% pure hematite all the way through so there SI still the possibility you just dropped a lump of rust into your bottle......it's still a metal oxide
Look up various other hobbying communities basic tools videos here on TH-cam, and keep an open mind about how to apply it to our particular corner of the world. I picked up a bunch of little useful ideas from watching videos for custom action figures, and high end technical model kits like Gundams.
My favorite tips were the surprisingly useful foundation makeup brush, foam makeup wedges to paint tanks quickly and cleanly, and getting a small hobby pen saw to blow the lid off of your conversions.
Great bit of advice. I have borrowed so much from other crafting tutorials in other mediums. Well said.
For mini parts too small to pin, instead of glue I like to use "JB Qwick", which is the 5 minute set version of "JB Weld" epoxy. It's FAR stronger than glue, and you'd likely tear your mini to pieces before that joint fails. It's also good for filling in seams in multi-part minis; it's thinner and flows into cracks better than green stuff. Once it starts to set it can be formed and sculpted to match surrounding textures.
Good suggestion, never tried it, I will have to give it a try.
I use a glass beer bottle. All the Engineering to make it the most comfortable feeling in your hand! 😎
Someone else in the comments had suggested this, it's genius.
I find the problem with superglue accelerant is that the bond will be more brittle. But sometimes it's the only option, and it should definitely be in your arsenal.
I have heard that a lot, but I have never experienced it. I am not sure if it's the glue/accelerant that I am using, but it gets so hot it usually has the same effect as plastic glue (or nearly so). The bonds I get are rock solid, but I have heard that enough to think there must be something to it, so I am not sure what is different.
Well, part of it is that there's two kinds: spray and brush-on.
The later type is what I mostly have issues with. You brush it on to one surface, put glue on the other, then press them together. This tends produce a bond that at least along the edges looks frosted, crystalline. And it's kind of rubbish. Now, this may also be caused by using too much glue, but when you're trying to bond uneven surfaces you don't have a lot of choice in the matter.
The spray has worked better for me. I suspect that what it's doing is creating that same brittle bond, but only along the outside of the area, where the spray can reach. Then that holds the thing in place long enough for the glue inside to form a better bond.
Could very well be, I actually use it in a micro-dropper for control, so maybe that is the difference.
I've experienced the same so I tend to avoid it these days unless I absolutely have to get the bond formed quickly because it's awkward to keep the parts together.
Mind you, a super glue bond will always be brittle. Just seems to me that accelerator makes it far worse than normal.
Been using accelerant for years. Why the bond becomes brittle is because the accelerator heats up the superglue thus giving a weaker bond. Not that important when it comes to plastic models but when it comes to balsa and ply radio control aircraft and metal miniatures it matters
I will start painting again. (I've stopped 25 years ago!!!!) After seeing several of your video's I am getting hooked again I think. Your videos are so professional, clear and have lot's of usefull information for ALL aspects of miniature building/painting. Very good job.
I have one question though. I will use acryl medium matt to glace. In my opinion this acts also as a thinner. Can't I skip the Acryllic thinner?. I see them often used together. OR.... always use them together to skip even the water because water will affect the integrity of your paint/pigment.
I'm going to use mostly Warcolours. Do you have any experience making your own washes with warcolours (gel) using homemade flow-aid (water + Glycerine) mixed with my matt medium. (or better mix it with an ink?)
Keep up the good work!
1) Yes, that should work and you shouldn't need thinner. If you are using that, water should carry you from there for when you need to thin a little more or whatever.
2) I haven't made my own washes with them, but there is no reason you shouldn't be able to do it. I will say on that side, something like the Green Stuff World or Citadel washes are really easy to use, might be something to just experiment with, but if you like the DIY, it will work fine.
My best advice with Warcolours is remember, they are quite transparent, so you will want to have a zenithal base coat and/or base with an airbrush to get that first smooth layer down. It should be smooth sailing from there.
Great tips Vince. Get painting that Shaman! :)
+Hooves of Doom I will ignore the DEEP irony in that sentence ;) Thank you sir, much appreciated.
haha. Congrats on your beastmen purchases. The brayherds must grow!
I got this idea from PLASMO plastic models: use those little plastic coffee creamer containers, you can use them right side up or upside down for smaller amounts of liquid/semi liquid.
That's an awesome idea, I will give that a go. :)
@@VinceVenturella the little plastic ones from 7-11 or whatever gasstation. I was just using one tonight with a dot of clay to paint an ork head so there's another use. Call em specialty hobby tool #452.
This is better than Netflix
The channel has slightly less content, but only slightly. ;)
Coming back on this a little late. I've been checking these tips and I'm trying to incorporate them. I had to use e-bay to find some blu tack. It wasn't expensive, but it's a recurring issue where a popular product in the USA or UK isn't available (or commonly available) in Belgium.
I have a question on the blu tack though: how do you handle large batches? I sometimes paint a whole unit at a time, being 20-30 models. And I'm considering doing an even larger batch in januari.
It seems impractical to put them all on stands logistically, due to the amount of blu tack and stands required.
Also, painting a large batch takes time. Does it risk drying the Blu-tack?
+Dieter Okay, so some answers.
1) I leave my blue tack out in little cubes, it doesn't really dry out.
2) When I factory paint, I use 1 cap with blue tack on top. I place the model on that I want to paint and then paint, then put him back in his spot and repeat. It REALLY helps you when batch painting as it keeps your hand from getting tired holding models. There is a reason I can paint for 12, 16 or 20 hours straight (other than the fact I am insane) - I don't fatigue my hands. Little things like that make a big deal over time. It takes about 2 seconds to change the fig, so it's very worth it.
Vince Venturella Terrific. I'll try that.
You are the goat sir!
Glad to help :)
I know this is a bazillion years ago, but have you since tried the monument (Pro Acryl) glaze and wash medium? I find it to be quite cheap compared to other glazing medium products, because it contain less water but if thinned down provides the same properties. I feel it gives me more control because it is usable in a more voscuose state as well. To be clear: I too do very much like the properties of the Vallejo product, I just find it quite expensive given how much of it on can use on a single model
Yeah, I’ve used it some, I should really do a full review as I do like it.
Ever use baking soda as an accelerator? It sets super glue instantly and even adds a bit of built up medium on some joints that could use a bit extra.
I have not, I traditionally just use chemical accelerant. That being said, I am very interested in this, I will have to give it a try. :)
In one of your video you were doing edge highlighting. You mentioned using a full body acrylic paint for the tip of the brush when brush loading. I am not sure what paint that is. Can I use regular Army painter white? Or something else? I did a search on Michaels website for full body acrylic and found nothing.
Heavy Body Acrylic, like this - www.amazon.com/Golden-GLDNHB-13802-Acrylic-2-Ounce-Titanium/dp/B0006VBSAY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1S182A8G00JTE&keywords=golden+heavy+body+acrylic+paint&qid=1565661983&s=gateway&sprefix=golden+heavy%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-5
This whole video could do with having the sound amplified by a smidge over 10 dB. Even with my laptop's volume turned up all the way you're so quiet.
Another one that works, is a piece of styrafoam with toothpicks or metal rods for individual pieces, heads, arms, legs, weapons, etc.
Good call for sure. It's usually the simplest stuff that is the most helpful. :)
Question: id GW lahmian medium the same as vallejo thinner? Ibread that lahmian is more for the purpose of washes, buy I am unsure if I should buy both or just one.
Diegan I don't think so. It's also not the same as glaze medium, because glaze medium has a retarder in it, so it will make your paint dry longer. I personally use 1 drop of thinner, 1 of glaze medium per 4 drops of citadel paint to get the brush consistency and add 2-3 drops of water to that for airbrush consistency.
That wooden skewer...if you accidentally cut off a sharp fang on a mini while cleaning it up, if you sand it to a sharper point (toothpicks work too), you can cut the tiniest tip off the skewer and glue it in with superglue to replace the tooth...🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😘
(Discovered this hack this week when my dumb ass decided to clean and scrape down a fang after the entire mini was painstakingly painted except for the mouth...and the fangs ARE the focal point for the Dire Bear mini)😲😵😂
I saw that story, that's truly amazing you were able to recreate it. :)
Was not sure what video to post this question on as to best help anyone who would see. This seemed like best one though. Do you typically assemble a model before painting? I assembled all of the models I have so far and as I have started painting I look at some and I'm like shit...lol...those are going to sucks to paint. If this is painfully obvious forgive me as I am only a few months into the hobby.
+manga3040 No issue at all. The short answer is not usually. If it is a large model, I almost always work in subassemblies. I have armies already, so I don't need to rush with any new army. For infantry, I will generally assemble them completely but leave shields off. For cavalry, same thing, but I will also keep the knight separate from the mount. For larger items, I assemble them as much as possible, but leave them in subassemblies if something is going to create a spot I can't paint easily.
Hope that helps!
Fantastic love these hobby cheats I've just come across some of the later ones and have decided to start from number 1, 399 to go 😂
Glad you like them! and welcome aboard! Some of the early videos are pretty rough, so please forgive the production quality, but I always hope there are stil nuggets of wisdom (or at least passable advice). :)
@@VinceVenturella can you recommend any tips for my 8 year old son and myself starting in the hobby he's keen as mustard, every night he watched 2 painting videos before bed and loves, you, Dan Kirby, Ninjon, Goobertown. He's working his way through some 90s space marines, gretchins and Dwarf Thunderers picking up cheap models and loving to paint he's been at it just over 2 months and is getting relatively good, edge highlighting etc now struggling with eyes though.
@@johnhale6079 SO I have a whole playlist devoted to beginners in the hobby journey, and I would definitely start there. WHen you're early in the hobby, it's really just about learning brush control, blending and the basics. :)
@@VinceVenturella watched it and am on to hobby cheating now thanks for all these he's reached his current limit with a base wash small highlight/edge highlighting using the edge of the brush
Any brand recommendations for non citadel paints? Found a hobby store that sells them for about 45 cents less but thought it would be good to try painting some models with other paints as well and see how I like them.
+manga3040 Vallejo, I have tried many paint ranges and Vallejo matches my style. I particularly like the Model and Game Air line, they are thin with very small pigment, so they still cover well. the model and game color is thicker, but still excellent paint.
+Vince Venturella Awesome thanks for the advice always appreciated! So the Vallejo "Model" line is for use with brushes though correct?
+manga3040 All of the Vallejo paints can be used with brush, my normal brush paints are Model and Game air, the difference is really in the thickness. The Model and Game Color paints are thicker, depends on the type of paint you like to work with.
Baby food jars! Slightly more solid than paint can lids and also usable as a bits container!
Yep, Tom has all the Baby Food jars with 4 kids and he has put those to work. :)
you can also use baking soda for superglue accelerate,
So I learned, it's interesting for sure as an option.
sticky sh#t lol
great tips for someone quite new to the hobby will definitely watch the rest
Thank you, much appreciated - always happy to help. :)
So for the typical citadel paint would you say it is not good enough to just shake it up good before painting?
+manga3040 I would say if you are painting straight out of the pot, you can suffice with shaking. That paint is generally way too thick for my purposes (even the layer paints) beyond base colors or drybrushing, but if you need to make them into glazes or mix them, the sticks and the mediums are very handy.
Gotcha thanks for the tips!
+Vince Venturella Even with base coating Citadel paints are way too thick. Vallejo air tend to be usable but still could do with a bit of water added to them.
+Broken Colony I agree completely, Game Air are my standard paints, and I thin them for everything save maybe small area base coats. That being said, I know some people different styles and tolerances for this sort of thing for sure and there are always plenty of ways to skin a cat ;)
Got a new camera huh? Mr big time now huh? I reject your medicine dropper!
+Doom & Darkness Yes, I have truly moved up in the world. Don't fear the dropper, just let it happen ;)
While you mentioned paint on your thumb you should have stressed the notion that the top side of the thumb is the best pallet for working with your paints ever.
A cheap ultrasonic jewelry cleaner is great for revitalizing old clumpy paints.
+Jeffery Schutt Oh yes, the back of my thumb is usually covered in paint for sure. I am interested on the Ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for paints, I haven't heard that before.
+Vince Venturella Add whatever medium might be missing to the bottle of paint first and give it a shake to mix it in as best you can. I then strap the bottle to the bottom of the cleaning basket. Then I fill the ultrasonic cleaner with water to cover the paint bottle then give it several minutes of agitation or more if needed.
+Jeffery Schutt Interesting, I will give it a shot.
😊
Starting with video 1 on Dec. 5th 2020. And 238 to go
I apprecaite that, there are some in there that are highly suspect, I won't hold it against you if you skip them. :)
@@VinceVenturella I did but then you make reference to older ones and I have to go back. If there is one that I must absolutely watch. Let me know. I’m starting my first space marine and it will be my 6th model overall. Trying an airbrush
@@joshyjosh00 I'd say puruse and see what interests you. Things like the Zenithal, glazing, blending, those tend to be the things I always come back to.
For sanding I use an emory board
Yep, great pick that has since been added to my repertoire as well.
Great vid! But you broke the First Rule!
+Tzeen Green I think of them more as Guidelines ;)
you can use rubbing alcohol in place of zap kicker
Good tip!
Biggest cheapest thing i found for hobby gaming.... Wish or Ali express. Great apps. Shipping can take time but its cheap AF.
Use old copper electrical wiring. I strip the coating off and use the copper inside. Great for pinning, putting in a cork for priming and painting (leave extra length so you can cut the copper off if you have too. )
Making your own wet palette, and using an absorbent, machine washable cloth instead of paper towel. Paper Towel costs money. I have two cloths cut, when it's time to replace it i just wash it.
Quality ideas both for sure.
@@VinceVenturella Great videos! Recently got back in to warhammer 40k. Wish Videos like these where around 16 years ago. I might not have gotten frustrated with my painting skill. My lack of skill was mostly a lack of knowledge.. Painted out of the pot i did!! Wanting an airbrush badly!
Dat focus...
Yes, some of the old ones aren't great, it mostly get's better with time. Mostly. :)
Of course the thinner medium is thicker.
Of course it is, that's why there is irony in the world. :)
baking soda can be a cheeper zap-a-gap and it can be a filler
Some people mentioned this in the comments, very cool trick, haven't tried yet, but I will have to do so. :)
i noticed my local bank keeps a box of paperclips near the ATM.
Awesome, free paper clips. :)
Im not sold on zip kicker
Oh? Why so?
Time to watch every hobby cheating from the start...
There are some rough ones in there I warn you. But I stand behind most of it. ;)
Cool, I love your knowledge about this, it's really inspiring, can't wait to watch all of them
i would thumbs up, but it's at 666
Quick tip: Zip Kicker is nothing more than alcohol in a spray bottle.
Good to know, I just know I couldn't glue without it (in some form). ;)
Vince Venturella it indeed is magical stuff. It blew my mind when I realized what it was that I was making hour long trips to the FLGS to get specifically for my minis.
There are a few different kickers, and some of them are alcohol based, Zap can be obtained from hobby shops that have RC model supplies.
Essentially cyano is sets when it isn't in the presence of air, so the kicker simply isolates the glue from the air. That's why superglue and threadlock tubes are never full.
if the heat is a problem then there are foam safe superglues and kickers for the model aircraft folks.
To be exact : CA glue is CA stored in an acidic filler, which prevents polymerization.
Tap water is slightly basic, so is non-pure alcohol (IPA or other, like 70%) because it contains... water. You need two things for a CA glue to set : 1) remove the acidity 2) Coat the glue with an anionic liquid (basic water contains lots of OH- anions). Reason why CA glues take longer to set under dry climates, or when using very dry parts (plastic).
Hence : a little spray of tap water will do both, and the glue sets fast. But better even, IPA + water + baking soda (esp if using 99.9% IPA, disolve the soda in a small quantity of water, filter if need be, if too much was added, you only need a slightly basic solution, so half a teaspoon per pint of final product is enough ; then pour the soda+water in alcohol, you need those OH- anions in the alcohol) : the soda adds a base, the water disolves it, the alcohol is a filller which dries fast. And you have a very good replacement for Zap Kicker.
BTW : this is the reason of the baking soda + CA glue trick as a filler (which is messy, don't like it).
Cheap is so ugly. I prefer to refer to myself as discerning or frugal. And promoting work place thievery, my man.
Absolutely, I like your terms - let's go with that. :)