I definitely enjoy the DIY videos such as this one. I wouldnt mind seeing more of them. You end up showing more useful tips and tricks along the way than you know.
FINALLY someone on you tube showed way protection with a wood block on TH-cam!! You are to be congratulated. Might be a sign he knows something TH-cam viewers. Might want to pay attention as I use to tell my students.
@@joepie221 When I brought my new lathe home in 1993 to start my business, I made a lathe board before I did the first job. EVERY time something heavy goes in or out of the chuck the board goes on the ways.
There are very few "TH-cam" machinists that I would want to spend a day in the shop with to learn stuff like this from, and you are at the top of my list. I would be happy to sweep your floor 😄 I started in the hobby quite late in life and have had to cram as many bits of knowledge as possible into my thickening head as fast as possible. You have been an integral source of what have learned, and just wanted to thank you and encourage you to keep up the great work.
Every few months, i go through Joes vids, most often, i rewatch those i already saw a few times... The amount of high caliber shit he lays in his vids is amazing... Whats more amazing and much worse is how easy it is to forget some of his tips and tricks, which is why i rewatch Joe`s stuff every so often... You sir sure are right when you claim Joe to be admirable as a teacher and a machinist...
Great video! Really love the narration of how things can go wrong. Advice on the tool pressure against the large holes, even the comment not to cut through the threads which would seem obvious to a machinist but not to a newbie. I watched many hours of yours and other machining videos years ago and bought a lathe and mill and made parts literally the the day I set them up. Your videos are by far the best for learning how to make things come out right. There is no casual watching on your videos, yours are like a master class, notes and attention and sometimes even a calculator are required. I can't express how much I appreciate your selfless contribution to the trade through your videos.
A great video. Covers stock cutting, drilling, tapping, 3-jaw and 4-jaw lathe chuck, and boring on the lathe, as well as using a stop in the mill vise. . A lot of really useful information. + Thanks for taking the time to video and post. +
I have watched this video several times because you give critical information for designing clamping features that I have used many times and always been successful. Thank you
An abundance of very good advice. Thanks Joe for your knowledge and the time it takes to make all these videos to help us in our shops. You would make a very good teacher in becoming a machinist.
I know, I know, old video but there are so many wonderful tips in this one that us casual machinists can benefit from that I feel obligated to help the algorithm. Thank you Joe.
"so we open the vise and move the part." You are genius. AGAIN, simplicity is elegance. AND THAT IS FREAKING SIMPLE AND ELEGANT. Thanks again. Stuffing that into the mental toolbox. Another JP branded tool.
Joe, I can’t believe I missed this old episode. I just want to again say how much I appreciate how you’ve thoughtfully explained everything you did, including the design details for various features. All the best to you….. Joel. 👍😎👍
Excellent video. One thing I did differently is rather than drill and tap the rod that holds the stop, I bored and tapped a cap that fit over it. I then drilled a crossing hole through the cap and one through the rod. This allows me to fit any stop without having to mill a flat to account for any metal deformation on said stop. The stop is put through the cap and rod. When the screw in the cap is tightened it clamps the stop between the holes. Many indicator set ups use this same scheme.
Joe, Thanks again. I'm 62yrs. old and still love learning, I still have the hammer I made in 1974 High School (2nd project). and later I made a living running Bridgeport clone and made a 3 piece mold from my own drawings, for a Black Powder rifle I want to build someday it will be a 60" barrel .79 caliber (Minnae ball) My machines are small Clausing 8520 Milling Machine and a 22" ctr. to .ctr Chinese lathe but it's "My Shop" I'm gearing up for my retirement in both tools and knowledge. Very few videos get my attention like yours.(Tapping "Like" on every one)
Even when I am well serviced with multiple vice stop types, hey, it's Joe Pie... I always learn something from Joe Pie... So, I watch every video you do, And I learn, I see, I look behind the scene, stuff. Thank you, Joe, for sharing.
Educational, fun, practical. I didn’t double-tap a single time to speed the video. I wanted to watch the whole thing. Thank you, Joe, for taking the time to share you great genius!
I've built 100's among 100's of clamps, stops and fixtures in my shop including clamps for my production parts that go onto some of my products. After all my years of machining both CNC and Manually I still love to periodically look at your videos. A note for some of those starting out, & doing repeated processes, Get a fat blue sharpie and mark 1 end of your stock (and a small hint of marker on the top surface if you want)so that as you take the part out and reposition it for next step, you always know the way the part went in vice. When you flip a part, & let's say you drop it then you always know which way in sat in the vice. Especially great if you do 1 step at a time for many many many same parts that will have another tooling operation.
Stopped the video at 33:36 and ordered a Fowler tap guide. Slowly working my way to have all the cool tools that Joe has!! Also, as soon as I saw the finished stop bolted to the vice I thought why not have the round feature on both ends of the piece that bolts to the back of the vice, it would look like a vice with handlebars and be twice as useful.
Yeah agree with comment below lots good tips throughout. Also by far the best machining channel I’ve seen. Speed is perfect. Too many channels bang on about a load of bolloxs and takes ages to get to the point.
I couldn’t agree more. It’s easily the best machining & engineering channel. And when Joe does do the talking bits it’s always interesting & there’s something to learn. The others just seem to waffle on about inane stuff of absolutely no interest. In fact, when I see Joe’s put out a long video I’m always more pleased & look forward to settling down to watch it. The shorter ones are still great, but you can’t beat a good hour of Joe Pie on TH-cam.
just made one, like you say nice quick project and handy. in the past ive used all sort of contraptions and fixtures. finally you prompted me to make one.... Thanks
@@joepie221 I was a logging equip Welder, Fabricator/Machinist for nearly 20 years. The deal was NEVER re-use any fastener.I don't recall any fastener failures over the years Everyone was torqued (even 1/4 in) and of course stretched in the process. The used ones went into 5 gal pails. If you could pack them out the door from 1/2 way in the shop they were yours. I got 5 pails over the years and used many in the machine shop to make all sorts of things. As you know they have a nice carbon content and take basic rosebud (acc/oxy) heating and used gear oil quenching for many tools etc. I am sure I saved thousands of $ over the years. Thanks for the reply my friend. Now in retirement I pour pure silver to keep myself busy. Drop by if you like.Take care eh ! (Yep I am Canadian from N Central BC, LOL)
Wow! So much information on such a small part. Joe, you are an excellent Master at teaching those of us new to the field how to properly do things well. Since this apprentice only started 4 years ago (at 70 years of age) I have a lot to learn in a short time. Thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge that you gathered through a life long career of taking on challenges and succeeding every time. Capt. Art
Ive learnt a lot from your videos especially using trigonometry and different set ups and i have to say you're one of the most technical you tubers but ive learnt from another popular TH-cam that when four jawing its easiest to tighten the highs losen the lows hence i four jaw a lot of my parts, using that method you do become proficient at that practise and takes no time. btw I'm only a hobbyist but i do make or repair some parts in my line of work being a mechanic and transmission builder.
I'll admit, I have never used a 4 jaw chuck to machine a piece of round stock. Ever. Except for the quick alignment for a piece of square stock of the same size, round stock never goes in my 4 jaw.
You are always so helpful and thorough with your video’s you really have some efficient ways of getting the job done thanks for posting so many they always give me more ways to make my work more efficient and accurate!!
Hi Joe, Just got around to watching this video. Thanks for the shout out. We are delighted you like the boring bar. We are very close to having a 3/4" version available that I believe will be even nicer. Steve
Unloosen ? Doesnt that mean to Tighten ? lol I know its a Texas Okie Thing I hear people say that all the time instead of Loosen .Great Video Joe I do like the way you show efficiency in tool changing .
Thanks Joe for the great video and the bonus material. Thanks also for the tip on playing back on slow speed. I had to play with the different speeds and sure got some good laughs. Dale in Canada
Speaking of eliminating a tool or operation - the part that attaches to the back of the vise could be made of a round stock. Instead of turning square stock into a round, mill a flat surface on one side of the round then drill mounting holes after milling operation while the rod is still clamped in the vise? Also, if using standard rod diameter the holes could be quickly reamed instead of boring to size on the lathe? I do get that this is an educational video (a very nice one at that) and more complicated design is an opportunity to show a few different techniques and tips. But you mentioned eliminating tools is a good thing and those two thoughts came to my mind and I am curious about your opinion. I have to make a vise stop soon so I will try to make it from a round stock and see if I get something useful.
I think that square looks better, but I'd have to see it round to be sure. I would have used a reamer in the mill, as you suggest. The only thing is that you would have to use an end mill and that is another tool too. I know that he milled a flat and would need an end mill for that. I use a lot of BT40 tool holders and I don't have a fancy quick change, so I have to do it by hand. If I can avoid a change then I do. I wonder if I could upgrade my old mill for faster tool changes. I'm thinking about using a round bar and I'm starting to agree with you. Best wishes.
Andrew George Joe’s design does look nice. My comment was an exercise in simplification. Plus I have a bunch of off cuts of precision ground rods in the shop but no square stock of suitable size :-)
The 'hanger'is a very dangerous thing. I've drilled hundreds of holes and still got bit by one recently. It whipped out wide and grabbed my thumb, pulled it into the job and the spiral cut cut deep before it let go. A significant amount of claret spilled with a decent flap of skin hanging loose. I was relieved it happened to me and not to one of my students.
Excellent video Joe, I'll be making one of these soon considering I just received a Kurt DX6 vise from a friend who just wanted one of my big bench vises in return 😲. Thanks for the tip with the Anchor Lube and discoloration. I have found that stuff very useful, especially with stainless. Cheers
8 years manual machining and never thought to set drill depth with the quill stop, then use the knee. Always calipered the top block to the quill stop.
Naturally we love the clock! the Probe tip might turn on a back light or fore light on the clock intensity. It driving a POT that delivers the power to the LED lamp. :-)
Joe Pieczynski your employees would always set it ahead! You’d have to alarm it at minimum! (Would be really cool if you could adjust for daylight savings time with that probe!)
I used Anchorlube yesterday when making sizeable bores on 1018 steel. It makes vapors, not smoke. Soon, within an hour of using it, I noticed that all parts of my lathe near the work were turning brown. My chuck, jaws, the 1018 workpiece, the ways...ALL the metal was turning brown. I cleaned it with 1500 emory, WD-40, Scothbright, and managed to scrub away most of stain. I then finished the job using both Tap Magic, and the new THICK Tap Magic. They smoke like crazy, but I've never had a problem with them before. This morning all the parts are stained again. It is uniformly distributed on all surfaces, and only a vapor deposition can do that. So...one of these cutting lubes is fuming and or smoking and messing up my lathe. HAVE YOU SEEN SIMILAR PROBLEMS???
Yes. I learned the hard way to clean up any splashed anchor lube immediately after using it. I spray my parts with ISO alcohol and haven't seen stained parts yet, but the ways on my lathe weren't so lucky.
@@joepie221 THANK YOU, JOE. That stuff should not be sold. I didn't use much of it, but the vapor apparently penetrates metal crystal boundaries and lingers. I cleaned with alcohol last night and thought that would do it, but this AM everything was worse than before I cleaned yesterday. Whatever happens when the stuff vaporizes, it's nasty. I spent two hours recleaning this AM. Wonder what tomorrow will bring. THANKS AGAIN.
Great vid. Kiwi English says un at the front of a word makes the meaning opposite. Texan must be different. Noticed when you cut the second slot it popped open. Are there stresses in the material that causes that? Nice to know that factoid about the 303. I use SS screws for some types of workholding on my CNC machine for timber. No matter how careful you think you have been, occasionally I nick one. They are soft enough for the carbide cutters to go through unlike normal steel screws. That redistributes the cutter all around the machine.
Great video. I got a big laugh when you said "unloosen". In the context you used unloosen you meant to loosen whatever it was. I remember when I was a kid and would say something like that and my mother would always correct me telling me I am actually saying the opposite to what I wanted to say. To loosen is to let loose. To unloosen is to tighten. Just like untie is not to tie something. Absolutely not being critical of you or petty. Just remembering something from 60 years ago. Still chuckling over it. Keep up the great videos.
Ey up! Joe nice one i love it,thanks for sharing, I am not sure stainless is the best choice whist its strong and corrosion resistant and (Expensive) it is notorious for tearing and galling on sliding fits and screw threads that are regularly screwed up and undone repeatedly without the use of an anti galling compound. the design is excellent. I will make one and probably use EN24T and O1 rod for the shaft,and maybe heat treat it.
@@joepie221 You're very welcome. Feel free to email me at "jon" at our website url, and I'll give you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and post your videos whenever you want. Looks like you're one of us :)
Hi Joe. Now this is a really nice project & in Stainless makes it super Impressive. I made my stops in alloy, which work really well, but lets be honest they don't compare with your professionalism. Be safe & Catch you on the next project :)
Nice project. I will probably have to modify my vice to have a flat surface on the back of it before I make one of those... Or get a new vice, of course... ;)
joe ,,, youve done it again ! to un loosen some thing is to tighten it .... keep it up regards from england i live 50 mile or so from keith appleton .. he lives in yorkshire .. i live in derbyshire.. the dead centre of england laurence
Thanks Joe another great build with lots of time saving techniques. Would love to see how you finish the ends odf shortened threads e.g. Setscrews and all thread, I always seem to end up with annoying burrs.
I like the approach. Thanks for sharing another great project. I already had a Lipton style of stop, but you had a ton of great tips. If I lived locally, I would volunteer to work for you for free, jut to learn a tiny fraction of what you have to share. By the way, I think Stan is a reseller for Anchor Lube.
I think I posted this on one of your videos before. 304 stainless is in my opinion the most dangerous metal to work with. And not only work hardens but the curls come off as sharp as razor blades I have two fingers that had to get sewn back on well the tips of the fingers anyway all the way down to the end of the fingernail were pulled off like a glove on a lathe. It was the most painful experience of my life and I've broken just about every bone in my body working construction before in younger years. It is such a very important thing to know the metal you're working with understand its characteristics I learned that the hard way. I imagine a curl on a mill could be just as dangerous as on a lathe because it would tend to pull your hand into that Chuck into that bit and it could do all sorts of damage. These machines are not forgiving at all. And don't ever think that you're implying safe techniques because when you think you're being safe is when you're going to get hurt like I did I had a very small curl coming off I didn't notice right away and I should have shut it off when I did notice instead I just flipped it away from my carriage handle with the back of my hand it wrapped around my two fingers while simultaneously getting picked up by the job of a three-jot chuck and sliced my fingers off as if they were pieces of glove. I can no longer play guitar because of this and I never will be able to
The 'hair fine' long string chips scare me the worst. As soon as I see them its time to shut the machine off and get rid of them. When that spinning chuck reclaims that material, its one of the most dangerous situations you can encounter. Your injury must have hurt.
@@joepie221 it made me realize that things like PTSD are absolutely real because I experienced it. It was the most painful injury I have ever had it did not feel like a cut it felt like I got smashed on the hand by a sledgehammer literally. The ends of my fingers came off like pieces of glove they were peeled back off the bone only being held on by the nails and the cuticle the woman that sold them back on did an unbelievably good job but when I touch the tips of my fingers now it feels like electrical shocks. I can't feel any sensation when I touch things until I apply a sleep pressure and then it's like an electrical storm. The nerves never grew back right. And yes the 304 Long fine curl was the culprit I just tried to flick it away from my carriage. I always thought that I was very careful but just because I didn't want to interrupt that cut I'm going to suffer the rest of my life. When people think they are taking this craft seriously they really aren't until they see something like this happen and it puts everything into perspective.
I have the exact same thing happen, but I only lost the tip of my pinky. Same thing with no feeling in it, unless you touch it a certain way it feels like it got stabbed.
I guess I should really pay attention to detail a little better. I am making this for my mill right now and made the mistake of ordering 304 stainless on the 1"x1" square and learned it doesn't play well with others when machining. I finally got it to leave a beautiful finish but had to turn the speed down to 275rpm while only taking .005 doc @ .004 feed rate using a WNMG431 and using dark threading oil. Still learning is learning I guess, I did run into a surprise while turning it, like most in the beginning I had bought cheap inserts and I have learned my lesson there with the short life they have and I now use them for roughing in and go to REAL name brand inserts for finish work but before I got to trading out for a higher quality insert I decided to try the cheap insert on a finish pass and it did great even on only a .005 DOC which I wasn't sure a WNMG431 was capable of doing even if a name brand.
304 and 316 like to work harden on light cuts. Don't be afraid to dig in if your machine can handle it. Lubrication is also a good idea. Watch out for the temperature of the material before the finish passes.
As always great video. When you used the sharpie to mark the reference corner would it be better to use a different colour so that a novice would not get confused at which corner to reference off even though it may seem obvious, some projects may not be quite as obvious as this one. This from a total novice working with metal as wood is my normal medium
Could possibly make the block that mounts to the back of the vice and the rod portion of that part two pieces. Thread the block and the end of the rod, then screw them together. Allows for different length rods if needed, or no rod at all without removing the block.
I definitely enjoy the DIY videos such as this one. I wouldnt mind seeing more of them. You end up showing more useful tips and tricks along the way than you know.
Thanks. This one had a bunch.
FINALLY someone on you tube showed way protection with a wood block on TH-cam!! You are to be congratulated. Might be a sign he knows something TH-cam viewers. Might want to pay attention as I use to tell my students.
Thanks for the support. When the chucks start getting bigger, A cradle or drop board is a very good idea.
@@joepie221 When I brought my new lathe home in 1993 to start my business, I made a lathe board before I did the first job. EVERY time something heavy goes in or out of the chuck the board goes on the ways.
The bonus material was worth the extra few seconds! Thank you. I can never get too many belly laughs.
There are very few "TH-cam" machinists that I would want to spend a day in the shop with to learn stuff like this from, and you are at the top of my list. I would be happy to sweep your floor 😄
I started in the hobby quite late in life and have had to cram as many bits of knowledge as possible into my thickening head as fast as possible. You have been an integral source of what have learned, and just wanted to thank you and encourage you to keep up the great work.
Every few months, i go through Joes vids, most often, i rewatch those i already saw a few times... The amount of high caliber shit he lays in his vids is amazing... Whats more amazing and much worse is how easy it is to forget some of his tips and tricks, which is why i rewatch Joe`s stuff every so often... You sir sure are right when you claim Joe to be admirable as a teacher and a machinist...
Thank you both for your support.
@GutPyle Glad to help.
Great video! Really love the narration of how things can go wrong. Advice on the tool pressure against the large holes, even the comment not to cut through the threads which would seem obvious to a machinist but not to a newbie. I watched many hours of yours and other machining videos years ago and bought a lathe and mill and made parts literally the the day I set them up. Your videos are by far the best for learning how to make things come out right. There is no casual watching on your videos, yours are like a master class, notes and attention and sometimes even a calculator are required. I can't express how much I appreciate your selfless contribution to the trade through your videos.
Thank you. I take great pride in the material present.
A great video. Covers stock cutting, drilling, tapping, 3-jaw and 4-jaw lathe chuck, and boring on the lathe, as well as using a stop in the mill vise. . A lot of really useful information. + Thanks for taking the time to video and post. +
Thanks for watching. This one was loaded with tips.
I have watched this video several times because you give critical information for designing clamping features that I have used many times and always been successful. Thank you
An abundance of very good advice. Thanks Joe for your knowledge and the time it takes to make all these videos to help us in our shops. You would make a very good teacher in becoming a machinist.
I know, I know, old video but there are so many wonderful tips in this one that us casual machinists can benefit from that I feel obligated to help the algorithm. Thank you Joe.
I appreciate the comment.
While it is a joy to watch you work the real value is the clarity with which you explain how you approach each aspect of the job. Outstanding!
This video is a goldmine of very useful ideas! Thanks Joe.
"so we open the vise and move the part." You are genius. AGAIN, simplicity is elegance. AND THAT IS FREAKING SIMPLE AND ELEGANT. Thanks again. Stuffing that into the mental toolbox. Another JP branded tool.
And less chance of pin flex that way. Glad you liked that one.
Joe, I can’t believe I missed this old episode. I just want to again say how much I appreciate how you’ve thoughtfully explained everything you did, including the design details for various features. All the best to you….. Joel. 👍😎👍
Excellent video. One thing I did differently is rather than drill and tap the rod that holds the stop, I bored and tapped a cap that fit over it. I then drilled a crossing hole through the cap and one through the rod. This allows me to fit any stop without having to mill a flat to account for any metal deformation on said stop. The stop is put through the cap and rod. When the screw in the cap is tightened it clamps the stop between the holes. Many indicator set ups use this same scheme.
Great vise stop. Very well made thanks for the video. I got a couple of vise stops but only one vise.
Joe, Thanks again. I'm 62yrs. old and still love learning, I still have the hammer I made in 1974 High School (2nd project). and later I made a living running Bridgeport clone and made a 3 piece mold from my own drawings, for a Black Powder rifle I want to build someday it will be a 60" barrel .79 caliber (Minnae ball) My machines are small Clausing 8520 Milling Machine and a 22" ctr. to .ctr Chinese lathe but it's "My Shop" I'm gearing up for my retirement in both tools and knowledge. Very few videos get my attention like yours.(Tapping "Like" on every one)
Thank you very much. ( I turn 62 on the 19th of this month)
Even when I am well serviced with multiple vice stop types, hey, it's Joe Pie...
I always learn something from Joe Pie...
So, I watch every video you do,
And I learn, I see, I look behind the scene, stuff.
Thank you, Joe, for sharing.
Great tip on using a round bar to get close when centering a square piece in the four jaw chuck. Thanks
Saves some fussing around.
Educational, fun, practical. I didn’t double-tap a single time to speed the video. I wanted to watch the whole thing. Thank you, Joe, for taking the time to share you great genius!
It was a long one. thanks for hanging in.
I've built 100's among 100's of clamps, stops and fixtures in my shop including clamps for my production parts that go onto some of my products. After all my years of machining both CNC and Manually I still love to periodically look at your videos. A note for some of those starting out, & doing repeated processes, Get a fat blue sharpie and mark 1 end of your stock (and a small hint of marker on the top surface if you want)so that as you take the part out and reposition it for next step, you always know the way the part went in vice. When you flip a part, & let's say you drop it then you always know which way in sat in the vice. Especially great if you do 1 step at a time for many many many same parts that will have another tooling operation.
Stopped the video at 33:36 and ordered a Fowler tap guide. Slowly working my way to have all the cool tools that Joe has!! Also, as soon as I saw the finished stop bolted to the vice I thought why not have the round feature on both ends of the piece that bolts to the back of the vice, it would look like a vice with handlebars and be twice as useful.
Thats a great observation.
Superb...
You never use superlatives.
You always say nice, good, neat etc. That's so good for a dedicated job. Kudos...
Hi Joe,
I learnt lots on today's video, I liked the logic the proportions of the component parts. Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
Yeah agree with comment below lots good tips throughout. Also by far the best machining channel I’ve seen. Speed is perfect. Too many channels bang on about a load of bolloxs and takes ages to get to the point.
I couldn’t agree more. It’s easily the best machining & engineering channel. And when Joe does do the talking bits it’s always interesting & there’s something to learn. The others just seem to waffle on about inane stuff of absolutely no interest.
In fact, when I see Joe’s put out a long video I’m always more pleased & look forward to settling down to watch it. The shorter ones are still great, but you can’t beat a good hour of Joe Pie on TH-cam.
I completed mine yesterday, turned out very well. Thanks for the excellent tutorial!
just made one, like you say nice quick project and handy. in the past ive used all sort of contraptions and fixtures. finally you prompted me to make one.... Thanks
Always a pleasure Joe. No stainless but lots of GR 8 bolts up to 2 in.
Wow. What are they Used for?
@@joepie221 I was a logging equip Welder, Fabricator/Machinist for nearly 20 years. The deal was NEVER re-use any fastener.I don't recall any fastener failures over the years Everyone was torqued (even 1/4 in) and of course stretched in the process. The used ones went into 5 gal pails. If you could pack them out the door from 1/2 way in the shop they were yours. I got 5 pails over the years and used many in the machine shop to make all sorts of things. As you know they have a nice carbon content and take basic rosebud (acc/oxy) heating and used gear oil quenching for many tools etc. I am sure I saved thousands of $ over the years. Thanks for the reply my friend. Now in retirement I pour pure silver to keep myself busy. Drop by if you like.Take care eh ! (Yep I am Canadian from N Central BC, LOL)
Wow! So much information on such a small part.
Joe, you are an excellent Master at teaching those of us new to the field how to properly do things well.
Since this apprentice only started 4 years ago (at 70 years of age) I have a lot to learn in a short time.
Thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge that you gathered through a life long career of taking on challenges and succeeding every time.
Capt. Art
My pleasure.
That was a whole bunch of great tips. Thank you Joe. You are the best 👍
You can also pick up center with a pointed tap in a 6-inch scale, balancing the scale on the part and holding it down with the tap in the spindle
Such a simple looking tool/jig but you have included some very valuable tips in the process. Thanks for all the videos. Happy machining.
When I saw the end with the rare bonus features, I spit my tea all over the computer screen. Keep making chips Joe!!! Great video!!!
I had considered editing that out, but the 2X voice was too good to leave behind. It sounded like a drunk ewok from star wars.
Pure GOLD....... brilliant nuggets everywhere. Saving this to my machining refresher playlist. Thank you Joe 🙏
Tools making tools... the best kind of tutorials. Especially with the blooper at the end. I was kind of wondering if the DTI got whacked...
Ive learnt a lot from your videos especially using trigonometry and different set ups and i have to say you're one of the most technical you tubers but ive learnt from another popular TH-cam that when four jawing its easiest to tighten the highs losen the lows hence i four jaw a lot of my parts, using that method you do become proficient at that practise and takes no time. btw I'm only a hobbyist but i do make or repair some parts in my line of work being a mechanic and transmission builder.
I'll admit, I have never used a 4 jaw chuck to machine a piece of round stock. Ever. Except for the quick alignment for a piece of square stock of the same size, round stock never goes in my 4 jaw.
You are always so helpful and thorough with your video’s you really have some efficient ways of getting the job done thanks for posting so many they always give me more ways to make my work more efficient and accurate!!
Glad to help.
Dear Sir, You produce some great video content, thank you for sharing your extensive skills with us. Please carry on making these video`s many thanks
I plan to. Thanks.
Good project Joe, I’ll certainly be making one or four of these. One day I might even make something that’s not a shop tool/accessory.
Finally got around to making one, I should have made time for it way sooner, I’m already saving time using it- Thanks Joe.
As always you have a useful shop aid to make .thank you for showing how simple the process is .
Very useful Joe! I have made some interesting stuff, mostly taught by people like you sharing their experience. Thank You!!
Hi Joe,
Just got around to watching this video. Thanks for the shout out. We are delighted you like the boring bar. We are very close to having a 3/4" version available that I believe will be even nicer.
Steve
Steve, shoot me an e-mail please advancedinnovationsllc@gmail.com
@@joepie221 Just shot you an email.
Steve
Joe, Wow that second saw kerf unlosened the stress form that part a couple or three thousands of an inch.
It certainly looked that way on the video. I'll have to inspect it to be sure.
Unloosen ? Doesnt that mean to Tighten ? lol I know its a Texas Okie Thing I hear people say that all the time instead of Loosen .Great Video Joe I do like the way you show efficiency in tool changing .
Thanks Joe, another masterclass! I changed vices recently and my old stop doesn't fit, you've given me some ideas...
Cleanest nails of any machinist I've ever seen.
Thanks.
One more shop tool added to the projects list now. Thanks Joe!
Thanks Joe for the great video and the bonus material. Thanks also for the tip on playing back on slow speed. I had to play with the different speeds and sure got some good laughs.
Dale in Canada
The indicator survived unharmed. I sound like an Ewok from star wars at 2X.
I would like to see a video on your chamfer tool. Looks to be shop made
What a great video! I'm all set on vise stops for now, but I love how you work SS and the tips on the different grades. Thanks Joe!
Thanks for checking in Guy. Stay well.
So many useful tips on a part that seems simple on the surface. Thanks!
This was a good one Joe, I became very aware of several things that I had not thought of before... very helpful, thank you Joe!
Speaking of eliminating a tool or operation - the part that attaches to the back of the vise could be made of a round stock. Instead of turning square stock into a round, mill a flat surface on one side of the round then drill mounting holes after milling operation while the rod is still clamped in the vise?
Also, if using standard rod diameter the holes could be quickly reamed instead of boring to size on the lathe?
I do get that this is an educational video (a very nice one at that) and more complicated design is an opportunity to show a few different techniques and tips. But you mentioned eliminating tools is a good thing and those two thoughts came to my mind and I am curious about your opinion. I have to make a vise stop soon so I will try to make it from a round stock and see if I get something useful.
I think that square looks better, but I'd have to see it round to be sure. I would have used a reamer in the mill, as you suggest. The only thing is that you would have to use an end mill and that is another tool too. I know that he milled a flat and would need an end mill for that.
I use a lot of BT40 tool holders and I don't have a fancy quick change, so I have to do it by hand. If I can avoid a change then I do. I wonder if I could upgrade my old mill for faster tool changes.
I'm thinking about using a round bar and I'm starting to agree with you.
Best wishes.
Andrew George Joe’s design does look nice.
My comment was an exercise in simplification.
Plus I have a bunch of off cuts of precision ground rods in the shop but no square stock of suitable size :-)
You have helped me so much in this hobby . Thank you for the ideas and tips .
Tried to post a picture in the comments of the one I built from your creation but I can’t figure it out lol .
Glad to help.
If you "unloosen" (36:29) something, aren't you making it tighter? :-) Enjoyed the video!
Long running inside joke with Joe ...
Another master class. Thanks Joe
Perfect job as always Joe
A "simple" job made very interesting. Thanks Joe
Great vlog Joe, thanks for sharing.
👍 , nice project . Making ones own tools results in a lot of satisfaction. 😊 !
It truly does. This is a great and useful project.
The 'hanger'is a very dangerous thing. I've drilled hundreds of holes and still got bit by one recently. It whipped out wide and grabbed my thumb, pulled it into the job and the spiral cut cut deep before it let go. A significant amount of claret spilled with a decent flap of skin hanging loose. I was relieved it happened to me and not to one of my students.
Excellent video Joe, I'll be making one of these soon considering I just received a Kurt DX6 vise from a friend who just wanted one of my big bench vises in return 😲.
Thanks for the tip with the Anchor Lube and discoloration. I have found that stuff very useful, especially with stainless.
Cheers
It is, but will turn nice surfaces black overnight.
Thanks for the great video Joe! Learned a lot! Especially the tips for working with stainless.
Superb video, Joe. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you, Joe for all the tips!
8 years manual machining and never thought to set drill depth with the quill stop, then use the knee. Always calipered the top block to the quill stop.
Its also a solid technique to stop drills from bouncing. Try it.
Great project and learning video. Looking forward to a copy of the plans. Thanks for all your hard work, and my education.
Very welcome
Naturally we love the clock! the Probe tip might turn on a back light or fore light on the clock intensity. It driving a POT that delivers the power to the LED lamp. :-)
It should advance or retard the clock time. that would be awesome.
Joe Pieczynski your employees would always set it ahead! You’d have to alarm it at minimum! (Would be really cool if you could adjust for daylight savings time with that probe!)
I used Anchorlube yesterday when making sizeable bores on 1018 steel. It makes vapors, not smoke. Soon, within an hour of using it, I noticed that all parts of my lathe near the work were turning brown. My chuck, jaws, the 1018 workpiece, the ways...ALL the metal was turning brown. I cleaned it with 1500 emory, WD-40, Scothbright, and managed to scrub away most of stain. I then finished the job using both Tap Magic, and the new THICK Tap Magic. They smoke like crazy, but I've never had a problem with them before. This morning all the parts are stained again. It is uniformly distributed on all surfaces, and only a vapor deposition can do that. So...one of these cutting lubes is fuming and or smoking and messing up my lathe. HAVE YOU SEEN SIMILAR PROBLEMS???
Yes. I learned the hard way to clean up any splashed anchor lube immediately after using it. I spray my parts with ISO alcohol and haven't seen stained parts yet, but the ways on my lathe weren't so lucky.
@@joepie221 THANK YOU, JOE. That stuff should not be sold. I didn't use much of it, but the vapor apparently penetrates metal crystal boundaries and lingers. I cleaned with alcohol last night and thought that would do it, but this AM everything was worse than before I cleaned yesterday. Whatever happens when the stuff vaporizes, it's nasty. I spent two hours recleaning this AM. Wonder what tomorrow will bring. THANKS AGAIN.
Handy stop. Thanks for the video Joe.
Good timing, this is one of the things on my to do list. Might use knurled screws so I don't need an allen wrench though.
Knurled screw may not give you enough pressure if you bump parts. Be careful.
I place my splits to favor the head side of the bolt hole allowing more teeth for the anchor end. It works fine and I've never stripped threads!
Or use a longer screw?
Great vid. Kiwi English says un at the front of a word makes the meaning opposite. Texan must be different. Noticed when you cut the second slot it popped open. Are there stresses in the material that causes that? Nice to know that factoid about the 303. I use SS screws for some types of workholding on my CNC machine for timber. No matter how careful you think you have been, occasionally I nick one. They are soft enough for the carbide cutters to go through unlike normal steel screws. That redistributes the cutter all around the machine.
Just made one! Thanks for the ideas and videos.
Great video. I got a big laugh when you said "unloosen". In the context you used unloosen you meant to loosen whatever it was. I remember when I was a kid and would say something like that and my mother would always correct me telling me I am actually saying the opposite to what I wanted to say. To loosen is to let loose. To unloosen is to tighten. Just like untie is not to tie something. Absolutely not being critical of you or petty. Just remembering something from 60 years ago. Still chuckling over it. Keep up the great videos.
I will probably use that word in 90% of my videos. Its kind of a trademark and usually gets responses.
@@joepie221 I wasn't criticizing you. I was only remembering from earlier in my life. You keep using it.
Ey up! Joe nice one i love it,thanks for sharing, I am not sure stainless is the best choice whist its strong and corrosion resistant and (Expensive) it is notorious for tearing and galling on sliding fits and screw threads that are regularly screwed up and undone repeatedly without the use of an anti galling compound. the design is excellent. I will make one and probably use EN24T and O1 rod for the shaft,and maybe heat treat it.
I learn a lot today. Very condense. Thank you.
Thanks Joe, I will be making one for my 688 very soon.
Its really solid. You'll like it.
Beautiful work. We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Awesome! Thank you!
@@joepie221 You're very welcome. Feel free to email me at "jon" at our website url, and I'll give you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and post your videos whenever you want. Looks like you're one of us :)
Hi Joe. Now this is a really nice project & in Stainless makes it super Impressive. I made my stops in alloy, which work really well, but lets be honest they don't compare with your professionalism. Be safe & Catch you on the next project :)
Nice project. I will probably have to modify my vice to have a flat surface on the back of it before I make one of those... Or get a new vice, of course... ;)
joe ,,, youve done it again ! to un loosen some thing is to tighten it .... keep it up regards from england i live 50 mile or so from keith appleton .. he lives in yorkshire .. i live in derbyshire.. the dead centre of england laurence
Hi Joe
Thanks for another go shop made tool
Thanks Joe another great build with lots of time saving techniques. Would love to see how you finish the ends odf shortened threads e.g. Setscrews and all thread, I always seem to end up with annoying burrs.
Screw a nut on first, modify the end, dust it lightly on a sander or hard scotch brite wheel and unscrew the nut.
Thanks I must get one of those deburring wheels as you urged to me to in that video about them. Stay safe. Tony
Another excellent video Joe! 😊 Thank you very much
I have found that all SS fasteners from a hardware store are 304/18-8 food grade. I made a replacement part for my French press from that.
I like the approach. Thanks for sharing another great project. I already had a Lipton style of stop, but you had a ton of great tips. If I lived locally, I would volunteer to work for you for free, jut to learn a tiny fraction of what you have to share. By the way, I think Stan is a reseller for Anchor Lube.
No no, I volunteered months ago. I get to work for Joe for free.
I think I posted this on one of your videos before. 304 stainless is in my opinion the most dangerous metal to work with. And not only work hardens but the curls come off as sharp as razor blades I have two fingers that had to get sewn back on well the tips of the fingers anyway all the way down to the end of the fingernail were pulled off like a glove on a lathe. It was the most painful experience of my life and I've broken just about every bone in my body working construction before in younger years. It is such a very important thing to know the metal you're working with understand its characteristics I learned that the hard way. I imagine a curl on a mill could be just as dangerous as on a lathe because it would tend to pull your hand into that Chuck into that bit and it could do all sorts of damage. These machines are not forgiving at all. And don't ever think that you're implying safe techniques because when you think you're being safe is when you're going to get hurt like I did I had a very small curl coming off I didn't notice right away and I should have shut it off when I did notice instead I just flipped it away from my carriage handle with the back of my hand it wrapped around my two fingers while simultaneously getting picked up by the job of a three-jot chuck and sliced my fingers off as if they were pieces of glove. I can no longer play guitar because of this and I never will be able to
The 'hair fine' long string chips scare me the worst. As soon as I see them its time to shut the machine off and get rid of them. When that spinning chuck reclaims that material, its one of the most dangerous situations you can encounter. Your injury must have hurt.
@@joepie221 it made me realize that things like PTSD are absolutely real because I experienced it. It was the most painful injury I have ever had it did not feel like a cut it felt like I got smashed on the hand by a sledgehammer literally. The ends of my fingers came off like pieces of glove they were peeled back off the bone only being held on by the nails and the cuticle the woman that sold them back on did an unbelievably good job but when I touch the tips of my fingers now it feels like electrical shocks. I can't feel any sensation when I touch things until I apply a sleep pressure and then it's like an electrical storm. The nerves never grew back right.
And yes the 304 Long fine curl was the culprit I just tried to flick it away from my carriage. I always thought that I was very careful but just because I didn't want to interrupt that cut I'm going to suffer the rest of my life. When people think they are taking this craft seriously they really aren't until they see something like this happen and it puts everything into perspective.
I have the exact same thing happen, but I only lost the tip of my pinky. Same thing with no feeling in it, unless you touch it a certain way it feels like it got stabbed.
@@snowdog90210 i'm very sorry to hear that
it affects my entire life.
Another awesome video. Another project on my list. 👍
Thank you for sharing your experience
advanced thinking great advice & easy to learn. thank you sir Joe.
Hey Rob, Haven't heard from you in a while. Thanks for checking in. I hope all is well.
Joe thats cool just ordered up some bar stock will let you know how I get on, keep them coming, she,e I don't live near I would never be away lol
I guess I should really pay attention to detail a little better. I am making this for my mill right now and made the mistake of ordering 304 stainless on the 1"x1" square and learned it doesn't play well with others when machining. I finally got it to leave a beautiful finish but had to turn the speed down to 275rpm while only taking .005 doc @ .004 feed rate using a WNMG431 and using dark threading oil.
Still learning is learning I guess, I did run into a surprise while turning it, like most in the beginning I had bought cheap inserts and I have learned my lesson there with the short life they have and I now use them for roughing in and go to REAL name brand inserts for finish work but before I got to trading out for a higher quality insert I decided to try the cheap insert on a finish pass and it did great even on only a .005 DOC which I wasn't sure a WNMG431 was capable of doing even if a name brand.
304 and 316 like to work harden on light cuts. Don't be afraid to dig in if your machine can handle it. Lubrication is also a good idea. Watch out for the temperature of the material before the finish passes.
Awesome Design Joe!
Another great project and video. I am curious why you chose to use the lathe for to bore the block. Wouldn't it be easier on the mill?
As always great video. When you used the sharpie to mark the reference corner would it be better to use a different colour so that a novice would not get confused at which corner to reference off even though it may seem obvious, some projects may not be quite as obvious as this one. This from a total novice working with metal as wood is my normal medium
Thx Joe I think I will make a couple of these
NICE TOOL, JOE THANK YOU, I WILL MAKE ME ONE. REGARDS FROM THE U.K.
You'll smile every time you use it.
Could possibly make the block that mounts to the back of the vice and the rod portion of that part two pieces. Thread the block and the end of the rod, then screw them together. Allows for different length rods if needed, or no rod at all without removing the block.
Great project. I am working on it now.
Good luck!