For the last 5 years since I jumped “head first” into learning machine shop, theory and practice I have learned SO much from a number of teachers and TH-cam creators. One particular attribute stands out though from business owners. Time matters, and more importantly, time is money. One step further, that if you work efficiently, and understand that efficiently also means being mindful of how your tools, cutters and processes are actually doing the work you can maximize all elements and ultimately your bottom line; and achieve the desired outcome. Time IS money, so Joe, when you give us your time I hope that guys appreciate that you could be at home, or with family, or building your business. Instead you give us these lessons, sharing your love of the craft, years of experience and time. I just would like for you to know how much it is appreciated, that you certainly stand out amongst other creators. Thank you as always for your time.
Joe you changed my line of thinking when you end mill. Till I watched your channel I would have used up my end mill a lot faster. You are definitely bringing me out of some bad habits. Thanks
303 is great. Last year, a zinc casting rotted away. This was part of the faucet from our tub filler. This was a pretty expensive model, and no longer made. No parts available. I had to make the part from 303. Whew. Angular milling, circular table for part, and, well, it was a pain. But replacing the faucet involved another (expensive) faucet, a contractor to remove the tub from the foundation built around it, and replacement. A good estimate of $3,000 to have done. But $20 worth of 303, and many thousands in machinery and cutters, and it was done. My wife thinks I spend too much on this stuff. Nah. I see you have a Bar Z sticker. I just bought the 1200 hardening and tempering oven from him. Good stuff.
Man... I was about to rough out a huge channel in a large block of steel to make a batch of BXA tool holders. I'm so glad I saw this. What a time saver... Thanks Joe!
Excellent. Also worth mentioning that using the drill to remove most of the material is transferring the wear onto that tool. Drills are much easier to sharpen than an end mill. Dont need a special grinder or jigs. You can just free hand it on a bench grinder.
Hi Joe, Logical explanation at the whiteboard which was backed up with the practical demo at the mill... Enjoyable video... Thank you. Take care Paul,,
Nice. Reminds me of AvE's video on chain drilling to get effectively overlapping holes using a drill. Do every second hole, then do the remaining holes. Since there's equal amount of material missing on both sides, the drill bit has less of a tendency to walk to the side. What he showed was with a CNC and for saving time on cutting a piece in two but the same technique should work for manual predrilling of a slot with a little finesse.
Thank you Joe! Started doing CNC programming/setup/machining on a Hurco CNC mill. I asked what was better.... To go to depth and attack it with the side, or take multiple pecks. Well.... I've been taking multiple pecks... So.... I will try going to depth and stepping over and see how that goes. I really appreciate the time you take to teach and share your vast knowledge. Have a good day!
Thank you Joe. As a novice machinist working with a hobby bench top milling machine (harbor freight)making accurate deep slots is more challenging and time consuming than I'd like it to be. This is perfect!
I'm quick to the keyboard to say "thank you Joe for taking the time to share your experience. You help a lot of people. Not many finer things can be said.
Thanks. I was one of the hundreds of people who sent you email asking about making cuts (big stepover and shallow DOC) versus (small stepover and deep DOC) given the same MRR. This answered the question, and gave me a good slotting technique too. Love your channel - it provides high quality information without a lot of fluff and foo-rah.
I really appreciate your videos, I had a small shop in the mid 1980's, then no machining until now so most is a great refresher and some new stuff. Thanks
Very enlightening and I had thoughts about that recently. That's why as a hobbyist I bought cutters on Ali-express with different lengths of the cutting edge. If you don't have to go deep, a shorter cut will suffice. Thanks for the effort that you keep putting in.
Climb milling on the finish pass gives a better finish on the side walls. Did this stuff for over 40 years. Speeds and feeds are what give you the best results.
Man I literally just went to school on this very scenario in my shop!! I'm having to do a 1/2" deep 3/16" wide slot 1.5" long in mild steel....if I slot back and forth progressively it takes 2 min, if I go full depth and across it takes 2 min, or if I plunge a bunch of times and clean up it takes 2 min lol....but the full depth breaks cutters, the progressive slotting ends up exactly like you said with a crap side finish at the bottom, and the plunging by far the cutter lasts the longest, as axially everything is nice and rigid...only issue with the plunging is I do still get vertical banding in the surface finish on the sides of the slot...the tolerances aren't critical so I just step over slightly and clean them up ......great video!!
I have never even turned on a mill or lathe and I enjoy watching every video. I have been a software developer for 35 years and I enjoy seeing how logic is applied whether in code or in milling or other trades. Maybe one day I will get a machine and give some of my logic a try. Thanks for the great videos I have learned a ton.
theory and then practical. Great way to teach. Never thought about climbing/diving while making the slot bottom. Learned something new. Thanks and please keep making videos! I learn something every time.
Exactly how I would have done a deep slot like that. A lot of times when I'm doing a keyway for example that's not at the end of the part, I'll just plunge straight down on my end points and step over with my center cutting, undersized roughing endmill. Then do a full depth cut to size with a finishing endmill that I only use on keys. Cool video thanks for sharing!
Thank you Joe for an absolutely fascinating mixture of principles and techniques combined together. Indeed, end mills are not excavators and in a home shop, tool life and optimal tool usage are just as important.
Ok, what the heck was he doing in my shop this last weekend! I was attempting to mill the shank of an old tool holder and managed to take the edge of a couple of mill cutters because 1) I'm self taught, listen to Joe and Adam and Tom and Marc and Mr. Pete to try and learn how to do this. Thank you Joe for this, to me, timely video. (Now I'm looking into how to get some tools reground. )
I just made some parts using this very technique to mill a pocket into a solid piece of steel, I did the drilling first, just like the video shows, I went within .010 of how deep I finally milled the floor of the pocket, did not need to "Z" back'n forth. When doing the finish passes on the sidewalls, I used only light climb (vs.conventional) cuts, made a very clean sidewall.
Speaking of cutter management. Do you have any videos about cutter selection? I know its a huge subject. But I bet a guy like you has some great simple ideas for home gamers.
He Joe - still the best tips from a man of practice! I always drill and saw the material away befor I mill it. Some guys laught about that. But as I always said "what you drill ya dont need to mill". Keep up the good work and have a nice day!! Greetings from Austria to Austin!
Wow, that's the first time you've done a video that I actually do the same thing for the same reasons. I've got a cheap Chinese mill/drill and a drill vice but that method works with even a less rigid set up.like mine
I like your videos because you clearly explain the fundamental 'geometrical' issues and pitfalls that a (hobby) machinist may encounter. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! Maybe it is due to my lacking English (or Texan?) skills, but I still haven't been able to 'decode' the way you pronounce your last name in your opening sentence. It certainly doesn't keep me from watching your contributions. Regards from the Netherlands.
Love your to the point explanation. No long winded drawn out videos. Cheers Joe....also like seeing how many subs and views you are getting...well Done, PB
Thank you. The channel is growing very well. Believe it or not, the occasional spider video has quite an impact. Sorry you non-spider guys have to suffer through them, but they are quite popular. And I'm rarely out of subject matter around here !!
Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge. You are incredible at your trade and so much of what you have and how you teach it is so sadly laking in many workshops around the world. I would have loved to have learnt from you when I was an apprentice but I am glad I can still learn now. Thank you again.
I’ve cut triangles with a 4ft center cut endmill cutting only 90% angels using a dividing head to make a piece of round stock into a Star of David. I used a slitting saw to cut multiple stars out of it.
Thanks for the explanation.... I have seen you use this technique in several videos during the miniature shop tool / steam engine builds....! Good stuff!!!
Some times when I can't roll the part and us most of the end mill, like when I'm cutting an inside through profile, I have to peck down.....When I do my final pass and or final comp, I pick a Z that's deeper then the wear depth on the mill from the peck, and do a sweat final clean up roll.......
For Slotting, using a Roughing Mill first would be the better option and likely letting you take either a full depth cut or much deeper cuts than when a regular end-mill.
The other benefit to side milling as opposed to end milling, is that (if the job allows) you can actually use the top of the end mill. This bit is rarely used, but with a bit of forethought you can make sure you can use it. Two benefits: 1) it's usually a pretty sharp area 2) the cut is more rigid up there, so you can take a bigger bite.
If you spot drill first by 1.25(diameter of mill drill) offset you can link holes and have less milling and more space for chips to go(less re-cutting).
The only problem with coming in from the side, as opposed down from the top, is that if you've got a light machine, you run a certain risk of either pulling the end mill out of the collet, or pulling your machine out of tram. You don't seem to get that force with a rougher, only with a finish end mill. My little Taig can take a 0.1"d x 0.1"w cut in 1018 with a 3/8" rougher, but put a finish end mill in there and try to take a 0.2"d x 0.02'w cut, half the MMR, and you'll either pull the head down on its dovetail or force the column to tilt out of tram. One of these days I'm going to screw up my courage, and drill and ream the hub on that column for a taper pin to lock it in place.
Super,,fixing to install Tee slots (for my first time) in a 1/2 thick hot roll plate. Have 4 flute end milks, so that a big plus on perdrilling holes first,,thx Joe for the tip,,Nesr
Yeeper's, all about saving ware on costly end mills,,,great to know tip's Joe,,thx. The few I have are under lock and key,,One thing I did on cutting in the Hexagon & Octagon features on an indexer I am making, was to cut the flats with a small fly cutter (recently last wk), and may have been beginners luck, but when I checked depth of cut's, the Joe block rang to the surface. I only took 0.005 cut's and finial @ 0.0005...and results were mirror finish. This vid was most helpful Joe,,,Bear
What make of camera were you using, I liked the battery set up for it, no rechargeable batteries needed. The slot milling you demonstrated is fast and efficient.👍👍
Nikon B500. Its a nice camera, but I plan to use the funds from my Patreon account to get a better one. I would like more control over the focus and an external mic jack.
When I was doing that kind of slot in tool steels like A6, s7 and O1, the chips could become hardened. They could wreak havoc on the cutting edges and will chip out HSS and sometimes carbide too. For that reason, I'd flood with water soluble to keep the slot as clear of chips as I could.
For the last 5 years since I jumped “head first” into learning machine shop, theory and practice I have learned SO much from a number of teachers and TH-cam creators. One particular attribute stands out though from business owners. Time matters, and more importantly, time is money. One step further, that if you work efficiently, and understand that efficiently also means being mindful of how your tools, cutters and processes are actually doing the work you can maximize all elements and ultimately your bottom line; and achieve the desired outcome. Time IS money, so Joe, when you give us your time I hope that guys appreciate that you could be at home, or with family, or building your business. Instead you give us these lessons, sharing your love of the craft, years of experience and time. I just would like for you to know how much it is appreciated, that you certainly stand out amongst other creators. Thank you as always for your time.
Its flattering comments like this that makes all the time invested, worthwhile. Thanks for taking the time to send it.
Joe you changed my line of thinking when you end mill. Till I watched your channel I would have used up my end mill a lot faster. You are definitely bringing me out of some bad habits. Thanks
303 is great. Last year, a zinc casting rotted away. This was part of the faucet from our tub filler. This was a pretty expensive model, and no longer made. No parts available. I had to make the part from 303. Whew. Angular milling, circular table for part, and, well, it was a pain. But replacing the faucet involved another (expensive) faucet, a contractor to remove the tub from the foundation built around it, and replacement. A good estimate of $3,000 to have done. But $20 worth of 303, and many thousands in machinery and cutters, and it was done.
My wife thinks I spend too much on this stuff. Nah. I see you have a Bar Z sticker. I just bought the 1200 hardening and tempering oven from him. Good stuff.
Man... I was about to rough out a huge channel in a large block of steel to make a batch of BXA tool holders. I'm so glad I saw this. What a time saver... Thanks Joe!
You're one hell of a teacher! Thanks
Thanks for the compliment.
Excellent. Also worth mentioning that using the drill to remove most of the material is transferring the wear onto that tool. Drills are much easier to sharpen than an end mill. Dont need a special grinder or jigs. You can just free hand it on a bench grinder.
Agreed. Not the drill Joe was using though, that was a split point drill.
Good quality drill bits are also cheaper than quality end mills as well, unless you use diamond coated drill bits of course LoL
Hi Joe,
Logical explanation at the whiteboard which was backed up with the practical demo at the mill... Enjoyable video... Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
Glad you enjoyed it. I like starting at the whiteboard if I can. I think it helps.
Nice. Reminds me of AvE's video on chain drilling to get effectively overlapping holes using a drill. Do every second hole, then do the remaining holes. Since there's equal amount of material missing on both sides, the drill bit has less of a tendency to walk to the side. What he showed was with a CNC and for saving time on cutting a piece in two but the same technique should work for manual predrilling of a slot with a little finesse.
Overlapping holes with 2 flute drills has ending in tears for me, more than once. I don't do it any more. 3 flutes, or no overlap.
Thank you Joe! Started doing CNC programming/setup/machining on a Hurco CNC mill. I asked what was better.... To go to depth and attack it with the side, or take multiple pecks. Well.... I've been taking multiple pecks... So.... I will try going to depth and stepping over and see how that goes.
I really appreciate the time you take to teach and share your vast knowledge. Have a good day!
Thank you Joe. As a novice machinist working with a hobby bench top milling machine (harbor freight)making accurate deep slots is more challenging and time consuming than I'd like it to be. This is perfect!
Glad to help
Your whiteboard technique really helps me understand what you are going to do in the machine. Thank you for these informative videos.
I'm quick to the keyboard to say "thank you Joe for taking the time to share your experience. You help a lot of people. Not many finer things can be said.
if ya gotta leave anything behind, knowledge is not a bad choice. thanks for the comment.
Thanks. I was one of the hundreds of people who sent you email asking about making cuts (big stepover and shallow DOC) versus (small stepover and deep DOC) given the same MRR. This answered the question, and gave me a good slotting technique too. Love your channel - it provides high quality information without a lot of fluff and foo-rah.
Awesome, thank you!
Joe never disappoints !
Pragmatic arguments with a side helping of education.
Thanks for watching.
Been doing it that way for 30 years, been so long I don't even remember where I learned that trick but it works so good on hard materials. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing!
I’m a beginner to this and I am finding your videos to be extremely helpful. Thank you.
I've covered a variety of subject matter. if there is something you are looking for, post a question as a new comment. I usually answer.
Thanks for the very useful information Joe. I cant wait to apply some of these techniques and get more from my tooling.
I feel like these concepts are pure gold for my little baby mill and lathe lol. Your videos are helping me a lot
Glad to hear it!
I really appreciate your videos, I had a small shop in the mid 1980's, then no machining until now so most is a great refresher and some new stuff. Thanks
That's a unique Clock!
Very enlightening and I had thoughts about that recently. That's why as a hobbyist I bought cutters on Ali-express with different lengths of the cutting edge. If you don't have to go deep, a shorter cut will suffice. Thanks for the effort that you keep putting in.
Climb milling on the finish pass gives a better finish on the side walls. Did this stuff for over 40 years. Speeds and feeds are what give you the best results.
The 2 finish passes were climb cut. 4 up, and 4 back. I completely agree with your comment.
That clock is awesome :) Thanks again for another great shop lesson Professor Pi.
I have a video on how it was made. I'm glad I did it. Its a 'feel good' addition to the shop.
Man I literally just went to school on this very scenario in my shop!! I'm having to do a 1/2" deep 3/16" wide slot 1.5" long in mild steel....if I slot back and forth progressively it takes 2 min, if I go full depth and across it takes 2 min, or if I plunge a bunch of times and clean up it takes 2 min lol....but the full depth breaks cutters, the progressive slotting ends up exactly like you said with a crap side finish at the bottom, and the plunging by far the cutter lasts the longest, as axially everything is nice and rigid...only issue with the plunging is I do still get vertical banding in the surface finish on the sides of the slot...the tolerances aren't critical so I just step over slightly and clean them up ......great video!!
Watch my video on cutter flex. It explains how to cheat your initial plunge passes to eliminate those vertical stripes.
Great video, I learned this method in the 80"s, I call it Chomping, has served me well. Keep up the great content.
Thanks, will do!
I have never even turned on a mill or lathe and I enjoy watching every video. I have been a software developer for 35 years and I enjoy seeing how logic is applied whether in code or in milling or other trades. Maybe one day I will get a machine and give some of my logic a try. Thanks for the great videos I have learned a ton.
Keeping your attention for that reason is a compliment. Thanks for watching.
thanks Joe for another informative video that also saves wear an tear on tools
Great demonstration Joe, thanks also for the explanation about the zig zag feeding to help us understand exactly what you did.
theory and then practical. Great way to teach. Never thought about climbing/diving while making the slot bottom. Learned something new. Thanks and please keep making videos! I learn something every time.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic easy to understand for this hobbyist noob.Id love to see a video on speeds/feeds,that is my greatest hurdle right now.
I've done chain drilling/milling on CNC before but the plunging is a new trick. I can't wait to try it out.
Exactly how I would have done a deep slot like that. A lot of times when I'm doing a keyway for example that's not at the end of the part, I'll just plunge straight down on my end points and step over with my center cutting, undersized roughing endmill. Then do a full depth cut to size with a finishing endmill that I only use on keys. Cool video thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching.
Nice one, Joe! Don't know about you, I can sharpen drills, but not milling cutters, so the "drill start" will save me some cutters! Thanks!!! 🙂
Once again, a fine example of the art of the machinist! More quick tips please.
Thank you Joe for an absolutely fascinating mixture of principles and techniques combined together. Indeed, end mills are not excavators and in a home shop, tool life and optimal tool usage are just as important.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Joe, that explains a lot. Your tips are invaluable for us novices.
as always informative practical useful info thanks, Joe.
Ok, what the heck was he doing in my shop this last weekend! I was attempting to mill the shank of an old tool holder and managed to take the edge of a couple of mill cutters because 1) I'm self taught, listen to Joe and Adam and Tom and Marc and Mr. Pete to try and learn how to do this. Thank you Joe for this, to me, timely video.
(Now I'm looking into how to get some tools reground. )
Another MASTER MACHINIST installment - Thanks Joe! 👍😎👍
You are very welcome
Another great technique. 👍
I just made some parts using this very technique to mill a pocket into a solid piece of steel, I did the drilling first, just like the video shows, I went within .010 of how deep I finally milled the floor of the pocket, did not need to "Z" back'n forth. When doing the finish passes on the sidewalls, I used only light climb (vs.conventional) cuts, made a very clean sidewall.
Good stuff Joe, thank you, as always.😎
Speaking of cutter management. Do you have any videos about cutter selection? I know its a huge subject. But I bet a guy like you has some great simple ideas for home gamers.
Hi Joe, thank you very much for the lesson and the professional explanation. Good job 👍
He Joe - still the best tips from a man of practice!
I always drill and saw the material away befor I mill it. Some guys laught about that. But as I always said "what you drill ya dont need to mill".
Keep up the good work and have a nice day!!
Greetings from Austria to Austin!
Thanks for the great video Joe. The more of these I watch, the more I feel the need for a mill to pair with my lathe....
They do go perfect together.
Wow, that's the first time you've done a video that I actually do the same thing for the same reasons. I've got a cheap Chinese mill/drill and a drill vice but that method works with even a less rigid set up.like mine
Excellent.
I like your videos because you clearly explain the fundamental 'geometrical' issues and pitfalls that a (hobby) machinist may encounter. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Maybe it is due to my lacking English (or Texan?) skills, but I still haven't been able to 'decode' the way you pronounce your last name in your opening sentence. It certainly doesn't keep me from watching your contributions.
Regards from the Netherlands.
My first name is Joe, and the first 3 letters of my last name are Pie. After that, a bunch of c'z'y'k....people always hesitated at Pie and it stuck.
Thanks Joe
As always great instruction Joe thanks.
Joe right on time with that information
Another great video, Joe Pie. I still love the "indicator wall clock" that you built. Keep 'em coming!
Thanks, will do!
learned it X Y, never thought about it, well done Joe.
Excellent video Joe. Been doing it as you teach here but always am eager to learn something new.
Thanks Joe! Your timing is perfect!
Justin? Glad to help. Hope you are well.
I use alot of roughing, hog endmills then finish with regular milling cutters
Love your to the point explanation. No long winded drawn out videos. Cheers Joe....also like seeing how many subs and views you are getting...well Done, PB
Thank you. The channel is growing very well. Believe it or not, the occasional spider video has quite an impact. Sorry you non-spider guys have to suffer through them, but they are quite popular. And I'm rarely out of subject matter around here !!
Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge. You are incredible at your trade and so much of what you have and how you teach it is so sadly laking in many workshops around the world. I would have loved to have learnt from you when I was an apprentice but I am glad I can still learn now. Thank you again.
I recently discovered this technique, now I use it all the time, works great! 👍😁👍
Great to hear!
I’ve cut triangles with a 4ft center cut endmill cutting only 90% angels using a dividing head to make a piece of round stock into a Star of David. I used a slitting saw to cut multiple stars out of it.
90° angels are my favorite
Note carefully at 6:15 when Joe changes tools and can subsequently make a much heavier cut.
very cool , thanks for the lesson..
Glad you liked it!
More good stuff Joe!
ATB, Robin
That slopped cut also works if you need to plunge with a non centercutting endmill.
I always thought drilling it first would take to much time! But that was effortless, thanks Sir Joe.
Thanks for the explanation.... I have seen you use this technique in several videos during the miniature shop tool / steam engine builds....! Good stuff!!!
Its a solid technique. Fast too.
As always, thank you for the excellent advice, and clear explanation of why it works.
Thanks again for your time and effort I did indeed learn several new things today !
Thanks very much. Very useful indeed. I have been using climb milling a lot recently, found it much easier on the cutter.
Some times when I can't roll the part and us most of the end mill, like when I'm cutting an inside through profile, I have to peck down.....When I do my final pass and or final comp, I pick a Z that's deeper then the wear depth on the mill from the peck, and do a sweat final clean up roll.......
Great tip Joe! Thanks for all the great content you're sharing.
Joe, another great video, Thank You. Please get a microphone like Abom and Keith Rucker so you have audio that is up to par with your video content.
Very cool. I use pluge toolpath a lot in CNC. It´s the best way to clean large volumes of material.
For Slotting, using a Roughing Mill first would be the better option and likely letting you take either a full depth cut or much deeper cuts than when a regular end-mill.
Guy Tech what do you think of that comment Joe? I'd be interested in your opinion on that as I'm sure others would be as well.
Thanks Joe, always learning from your videos. Hope all are well in your family and friends.
Thanks, you too!
Beautiful job on stainless! well done, thanks for the lesson
In a word: wonderful.
Love your tips man. Keep em coming
You bet.
The other benefit to side milling as opposed to end milling, is that (if the job allows) you can actually use the top of the end mill. This bit is rarely used, but with a bit of forethought you can make sure you can use it. Two benefits: 1) it's usually a pretty sharp area 2) the cut is more rigid up there, so you can take a bigger bite.
Saying thousand time thank you will still be not enough. As always absolutely best content 👍 Thank you for sharing
I appreciate that! Thanks.
If you spot drill first by 1.25(diameter of mill drill) offset you can link holes and have less milling and more space for chips to go(less re-cutting).
The only problem with coming in from the side, as opposed down from the top, is that if you've got a light machine, you run a certain risk of either pulling the end mill out of the collet, or pulling your machine out of tram. You don't seem to get that force with a rougher, only with a finish end mill. My little Taig can take a 0.1"d x 0.1"w cut in 1018 with a 3/8" rougher, but put a finish end mill in there and try to take a 0.2"d x 0.02'w cut, half the MMR, and you'll either pull the head down on its dovetail or force the column to tilt out of tram.
One of these days I'm going to screw up my courage, and drill and ream the hub on that column for a taper pin to lock it in place.
Super,,fixing to install Tee slots (for my first time) in a 1/2 thick hot roll plate. Have 4 flute end milks, so that a big plus on perdrilling holes first,,thx Joe for the tip,,Nesr
Drills are awesome for metal removal. :-)
Always great content Joe. Really useful information. Appreciate the effort you put in.
Very nice result! Thank you Joe!
WOW ! Now I understand what a zig zag cut is. Thanks Joe
Yeeper's, all about saving ware on costly end mills,,,great to know tip's Joe,,thx. The few I have are under lock and key,,One thing I did on cutting in the Hexagon & Octagon features on an indexer I am making, was to cut the flats with a small fly cutter (recently last wk), and may have been beginners luck, but when I checked depth of cut's, the Joe block rang to the surface. I only took 0.005 cut's and finial @ 0.0005...and results were mirror finish. This vid was most helpful Joe,,,Bear
Glad to help
Brilliant as usual, Joe, many thanks!
Love that clock it was good to watch you make it
I always wanted to do that and finally did. The project was fun. Thanks.
Thanks again Joe!
Lots of good information Joe.
You can cut "V" groove. i can sharpen the end of an endmill but not the side so I tend to chip the corners.
Good lesson Joe! Thank you!
I enjoyed this one. Learned a bunch,
Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video Joe.
What make of camera were you using, I liked the battery set up for it, no rechargeable batteries needed. The slot milling you demonstrated is fast and efficient.👍👍
Nikon B500. Its a nice camera, but I plan to use the funds from my Patreon account to get a better one. I would like more control over the focus and an external mic jack.
When I was doing that kind of slot in tool steels like A6, s7 and O1, the chips could become hardened. They could wreak havoc on the cutting edges and will chip out HSS and sometimes carbide too. For that reason, I'd flood with water soluble to keep the slot as clear of chips as I could.
Thanks joe
AWESOME STUFF!