Truly outstanding how-to video, in every respect; better than Ducati could have produced. Well done and thank you. In my case (Multistrada 1200s) a shop WAY overtorqued my hub pinch bolts (easily 80+ ft lbs) which caused the eccentric hub to get frozen and unable to do any chain adjustment, even with the pinch bolts loosened. I'm rebuilding it now with fresh bearings. I also noted a LOT of gunk/grime/gravel in the center part of the hub where there is a cavity... that can't be good so I'm glad I'm cleaning it all out.
Thanks for the comment brother and good luck on your rebuild! Yeah, overtorqueing those bolts is no bueno. Ducati actually released a TSB reducing the torque on those pinch bolts to 20 Nm on the Panigale V4 (instead of the 25 spec'd for the 1199) static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10152835-9999.pdf
@@TROdesigns Hey TRO, check your website email, I sent you a note asking if I can "rent" your bearing install tool, or if you'll make another one I can buy. Those bearings have a really thin outer race which makes my go-to method of using a socket a little sketchy for the install. Thanks.
@@TROdesigns good job on the rebuild and nice video quality. they obviously use a different swingarm on the v4, which has also smaller spacing at the clamp, might be that's why they need 5 nm less. I am not sure the clicking is from the pinch bolts working under load or something else, but sure is funny they reduced 5 nm from before.
I learned working at a military contractor that countersunk screws have a 50% chance of backing out. It depends on which side of the countersink the pressure is due to the inevitable misalignment between the two parts. If pressure is on one side of the counter sink (relative to where the thread starts) then the bolt will tighten under vibration. If it's on the wrong side, the bolt gets loose. You can see mil-spec enclosures where the nuts for countersunk panel screws are in little floating cages. This lets the countersink align perfectly and they won't tend to back out. For Harley rotors, they use red locktite, yup I said red. You have to take a torch to the bolt to get it out without ripping out the aluminum threads in the hub. Love your videos, the clear cylinder and carb ones, and this one has some great work as well, keep on keepin' on.
Interesting about the countersunk screws, I did not know that. That's pretty crazy the detail they went into with fasteners, but on aircraft (I'm guessing), you can't exactly pull over and snug them up lol. I agree with the red loctite now honestly - especially with the high temps and continual shock of apply the brakes.
Absolutely brilliant seeing a proper mechanic show the way. You have saved me a lot of hassle and heartache as I'm about to do this job. Thank you fella. really appreciated. I raise my beer glass in salute. top job.
Did the job mate. Had to cut the axle out as it was all seized. Then needed 15 ton in the press to remove it from the hub. Ripped the inner bearing race out with the shaft. Saved the hub. Put the new bearings in and a new shaft from eBay. all sorted mate. Well happy. Thank you for showing me how to do it. Much appreciated.
There is just something about this video that makes it so satisfying to watch - educational, well made and entertaining - many thanks for sharing - "Liked & Subscribed"!
Szkoda ze nie trafilem na ten film wczesniej - wszystko fajnie pokazane - tez robilem regeneracje HUB'a , znajac oznaczenua łożysk ktore są tu podane bylo by szybciej
Great video and very intuitive to follow. Can I ask where you bought the bearings from? I removed my swing arm, it's ready for a powdercoat in black. I was thinking to replace them since the hub is already off.
@PyroMania61 thanks brother! Links to the bearings and all tools used are in the description. I bought the bearings from a French company that delivered to the US quickly - Good luck!
@@TROdesigns Oh my bad, I didn't check the description. Prices seem to be reasonable? I saw a website that sold the full set (needle roller, ball bearing and dust cap) for €300.. You're a Godsend for getting me these less than half price!
Love how you made your own bearing install tool! I assume you made it completely? Or was it something existing you turned down to the correct diameter? Either way, that was my favorite part lol. Nice work overall 🤙
Thanks for the comment! I made it from a good buddies mold he designed and gave it to me as scrap aluminum - just so happened to be close to the bearing bore OD. Gracias @omgitzsteg
Great video. I need to know what is involved to replace the rear disc on my Panigale V4S, so I could decide if I can do it or pay my local Ducati dealer. This video showed me that I could do the work. Thanks for sharing.
Shoot me an email, it's listed on my channel info. All I ask is you cover the shipping costs. I sent the tool out to another commenter on this video before, great guy @SupermotoJohn
This is such a useful video, thanks! I'm about to swap my swingarm on my 959 for a 1299 single sided swingarm. Can I ask please.... Do you think I should change all the bearings on the 1299 swingarm? Either the ones in the hub or the ones that connect to the chassis/engine? Is it a servicing job that makes sense to do while I have the swingarm on the bench? ...or are they something that just doesn't really need replacing unless something has actually happened to warrant doing the job? Many thanks in advance!
The bearings are pretty robust I believe - you should probably leave them as-is for at least 30k miles. That's my assumption at least. But, if you're like me, you may want to replace them anyway if you have good access to them (swingarm off the bike already) and want a perfect rolling bike :-)
Wicked video. Very helpful. Have you ever had issue with the shaft not budging out even after tapping it? Im getting a clicking sound when i spin rear wheel or push bike forward and back. Removed everything today and the shaft seems like it just dont want to slide out
Great video, very helpful as I’m stripping my multistrada hub soon and it looks identical. Is that thin wooden wedges you use at 13:50 to prise the pinch bolt section apart?
How did you get the rear axle so clean, the splines and everything? Mine is really showing its age but a new one is very expensive... Would an ultrasonic bath make the spaces around the splines shiny again?
May I ask if the clicking sound from the rear hub at 20:01 when you spin the rear wheel in the video is normal? I got the same situation and my local mechanic said that I would need to change the rear wheel bearing or the rear wheel hub. Hope to hear your reply soon. Thank you.
I'm assuming someone serviced the rear brake rotor at one point for some reason, that or the factory forgot thread locker on the bolts, or neglected to torque them correctly. that could have been ugly if you didn't catch it. I'll double check those on my 748, interesting the 748 hub is little different arrangement, the spindal diameter is actually smaller on the wheel hub side than later 1098 and up, and the inner bearing side the spindal is actually the bearing surface for the hub inner bearing, looks like the switched to inner bearing sleeve over the spindal now.
It started sounding horrible with each rotation of the wheel, so you'll probably have some time if it ever happens to you 😁. You might be correct on that, because it's never happened on any other bike I've owned. Interesting about the earlier Ducati SSS hubs!
Went drinking with some Ingegneri from Bologna and they told me it was IN FACT serviceable lol. It's really no different than changing wheel bearings, spacer and all
Been reading up on this because I found my sprocket side axle but very loose, and assuming a lot of the clearance came from the bearings. Are either of these bearings even tapered? Does torquing the axle nut even ‘preload’ the bearings? Looks like it clamps the inner races, outer races held in by the circlip, and there is no load placed between inner and outer races like how old school car wheel bearings are torqued. 180-200 Nm seams like the wheel would not even turn and bearing would be ruined. I’ve assembled large industrial machine gear boxes that didn’t take that much preload.
It is a crazy amount of torque they spec for this. Most guys at the track with these bikes only torque them to 100 ft-lbs and that seems sufficient. The bearings aren't tapered as I don't think they undergo much side loading - the preload would only contact the inner bearing races and lightly move the roller balls. But there is a lot of play in the spacer so that's a lot of slop to take up while tightening...
Why chop through the caliper carrier ? Just warming it up slightly with a plumbers torch would have released it, also a little tip for you so you don't lose your teeth, use a centre on your lathe when polishing shafts ..
Thanks for the tips mate, but I have neither a torch nor a center large enough for the axle. I'm also not very risk averse, I ride every day in California with ppl who have no business driving! The hub material was "mushroomed" out into the path of the caliper carrier - it had to be cut to relieve some of the tension so it could be removed
If ya own a Ducati you need a machine shop , tools and talent. Or loads of pesos to the dealer. Lol. Miss my 74 750ss. Should of sold the yosh honda. Lol
@@TROdesigns still have the 750 honda on a Harris frame, Campagnolo, brembo, marzocchi, mikuni , tomaselli clip ons. And a 6 speed Yosh. Yup no electric start. The ducatti was stock and still is.
Truly outstanding how-to video, in every respect; better than Ducati could have produced. Well done and thank you. In my case (Multistrada 1200s) a shop WAY overtorqued my hub pinch bolts (easily 80+ ft lbs) which caused the eccentric hub to get frozen and unable to do any chain adjustment, even with the pinch bolts loosened. I'm rebuilding it now with fresh bearings. I also noted a LOT of gunk/grime/gravel in the center part of the hub where there is a cavity... that can't be good so I'm glad I'm cleaning it all out.
Thanks for the comment brother and good luck on your rebuild! Yeah, overtorqueing those bolts is no bueno. Ducati actually released a TSB reducing the torque on those pinch bolts to 20 Nm on the Panigale V4 (instead of the 25 spec'd for the 1199) static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10152835-9999.pdf
@@TROdesigns Hey TRO, check your website email, I sent you a note asking if I can "rent" your bearing install tool, or if you'll make another one I can buy. Those bearings have a really thin outer race which makes my go-to method of using a socket a little sketchy for the install. Thanks.
@@TROdesigns good job on the rebuild and nice video quality.
they obviously use a different swingarm on the v4, which has also smaller spacing at the clamp, might be that's why they need 5 nm less.
I am not sure the clicking is from the pinch bolts working under load or something else, but sure is funny they reduced 5 nm from before.
I learned working at a military contractor that countersunk screws have a 50% chance of backing out. It depends on which side of the countersink the pressure is due to the inevitable misalignment between the two parts. If pressure is on one side of the counter sink (relative to where the thread starts) then the bolt will tighten under vibration. If it's on the wrong side, the bolt gets loose. You can see mil-spec enclosures where the nuts for countersunk panel screws are in little floating cages. This lets the countersink align perfectly and they won't tend to back out. For Harley rotors, they use red locktite, yup I said red. You have to take a torch to the bolt to get it out without ripping out the aluminum threads in the hub. Love your videos, the clear cylinder and carb ones, and this one has some great work as well, keep on keepin' on.
Interesting about the countersunk screws, I did not know that. That's pretty crazy the detail they went into with fasteners, but on aircraft (I'm guessing), you can't exactly pull over and snug them up lol. I agree with the red loctite now honestly - especially with the high temps and continual shock of apply the brakes.
Invaluable video for ducati owners and the product you make for driving the bearings
This is one of the most well done “how-to’s” I’ve ever seen.
Absolutely brilliant seeing a proper mechanic show the way. You have saved me a lot of hassle and heartache as I'm about to do this job. Thank you fella. really appreciated. I raise my beer glass in salute. top job.
Did the job mate. Had to cut the axle out as it was all seized. Then needed 15 ton in the press to remove it from the hub. Ripped the inner bearing race out with the shaft. Saved the hub. Put the new bearings in and a new shaft from eBay. all sorted mate. Well happy. Thank you for showing me how to do it. Much appreciated.
I love the ways you’ve done , perfect mechanical work
Thanks brother! I do mechanical work the best possible way that I know of
Good to see people that can fix stuff not just replace.
There is just something about this video that makes it so satisfying to watch - educational, well made and entertaining - many thanks for sharing - "Liked & Subscribed"!
I appreciate the comment!
great vid, good to see I'm not the only who struggles with torquing the rear axle nut solo ...
I usually have someone hit the rear brakes but solo it's a little nuts lol
Awesome video, i just pulled my hub out and want to replace the bearings myself. This video is amazing. Great work!
Szkoda ze nie trafilem na ten film wczesniej - wszystko fajnie pokazane - tez robilem regeneracje HUB'a , znajac oznaczenua łożysk ktore są tu podane bylo by szybciej
Great video and very intuitive to follow.
Can I ask where you bought the bearings from? I removed my swing arm, it's ready for a powdercoat in black. I was thinking to replace them since the hub is already off.
@PyroMania61 thanks brother! Links to the bearings and all tools used are in the description. I bought the bearings from a French company that delivered to the US quickly - Good luck!
@@TROdesigns Oh my bad, I didn't check the description. Prices seem to be reasonable?
I saw a website that sold the full set (needle roller, ball bearing and dust cap) for €300..
You're a Godsend for getting me these less than half price!
Great video and thank you for sharing 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching! Share it in Turkey lol
Very clear precise well done video. Thks so much!
I appreciate the comment!
Amazing job ,safe riding
Thanks brother, and you too! 👍🏼
Love how you made your own bearing install tool! I assume you made it completely? Or was it something existing you turned down to the correct diameter? Either way, that was my favorite part lol.
Nice work overall 🤙
Thanks for the comment! I made it from a good buddies mold he designed and gave it to me as scrap aluminum - just so happened to be close to the bearing bore OD. Gracias @omgitzsteg
Great video. I need to know what is involved to replace the rear disc on my Panigale V4S, so I could decide if I can do it or pay my local Ducati dealer. This video showed me that I could do the work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks a lot for the comment and glad it saved you some dough!
Crazy details video!!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉 thanks buddy!!!
Very nicely done. 🙂🇦🇺
Thank you sir!
Very interesting video, thanks guys
Thanks man!
Want to make another one of those bearing drivers? Happy to buy one if you do.
Shoot me an email, it's listed on my channel info. All I ask is you cover the shipping costs. I sent the tool out to another commenter on this video before, great guy @SupermotoJohn
This is such a useful video, thanks! I'm about to swap my swingarm on my 959 for a 1299 single sided swingarm. Can I ask please.... Do you think I should change all the bearings on the 1299 swingarm? Either the ones in the hub or the ones that connect to the chassis/engine? Is it a servicing job that makes sense to do while I have the swingarm on the bench? ...or are they something that just doesn't really need replacing unless something has actually happened to warrant doing the job?
Many thanks in advance!
The bearings are pretty robust I believe - you should probably leave them as-is for at least 30k miles. That's my assumption at least. But, if you're like me, you may want to replace them anyway if you have good access to them (swingarm off the bike already) and want a perfect rolling bike :-)
Wicked video. Very helpful. Have you ever had issue with the shaft not budging out even after tapping it? Im getting a clicking sound when i spin rear wheel or push bike forward and back. Removed everything today and the shaft seems like it just dont want to slide out
Thanks brother! I haven't had that issue - sounds like the shaft is bent? I've only had that happen on the front axle
You can use the butane gas cooling bearing.
That's a quick and easy way.
True, that is much faster. I prefer to apply temperature to the aluminum as there's less chance of any harm to the bearing
Hello mister..
Im from indonesia
Your video very nice..
Succes 👍
Thanks for watching in Indonesia 👍🏼
Great video, very helpful as I’m stripping my multistrada hub soon and it looks identical. Is that thin wooden wedges you use at 13:50 to prise the pinch bolt section apart?
We call them wood shims in the US, used for carpentry. Thanks for the comment brother!
How did you get the rear axle so clean, the splines and everything? Mine is really showing its age but a new one is very expensive...
Would an ultrasonic bath make the spaces around the splines shiny again?
Dig the modelo in the background brah
It was a 2-3 Modelo kind of job lol
Great job. Perfect
Thanks man, I appreciate that!
May I ask if the clicking sound from the rear hub at 20:01 when you spin the rear wheel in the video is normal? I got the same situation and my local mechanic said that I would need to change the rear wheel bearing or the rear wheel hub. Hope to hear your reply soon. Thank you.
The hub never made noise on my bike, that sound was just from the chain as far as I know
Nice Work and Save Money
Plus, you know who worked on the bike
I'm assuming someone serviced the rear brake rotor at one point for some reason, that or the factory forgot thread locker on the bolts, or neglected to torque them correctly. that could have been ugly if you didn't catch it. I'll double check those on my 748, interesting the 748 hub is little different arrangement, the spindal diameter is actually smaller on the wheel hub side than later 1098 and up, and the inner bearing side the spindal is actually the bearing surface for the hub inner bearing, looks like the switched to inner bearing sleeve over the spindal now.
It started sounding horrible with each rotation of the wheel, so you'll probably have some time if it ever happens to you 😁. You might be correct on that, because it's never happened on any other bike I've owned. Interesting about the earlier Ducati SSS hubs!
Hi, what snap ring pliers you used on that ? I couldn't find one that big enough, thanks
There's a link in the description - they're huge!
@@TROdesignsthank you much
Hi.What brand is this lathe machine,are you happy with it?thanks
Where can i buy the bearings for this job? Ducati sells the whole hub and not the single part
I found them in description, sorry and thank you.
@@lucakor94 nice work lol
Nice video. How did you figure that out?
Went drinking with some Ingegneri from Bologna and they told me it was IN FACT serviceable lol. It's really no different than changing wheel bearings, spacer and all
That rotor is trashed. Is your foot resting on the brake pedal when riding? Might be dragging the rear brake and overheated the bolts.
Thank you for the valuable video. By the way, is it normal to make a "tic! tic!" sound when you turn the wheel after the last assembly?
Thanks for watching! I believe that tic noise is just the chain going over the sprockets. It's always made that noise as long as I can remember
Been reading up on this because I found my sprocket side axle but very loose, and assuming a lot of the clearance came from the bearings. Are either of these bearings even tapered? Does torquing the axle nut even ‘preload’ the bearings?
Looks like it clamps the inner races, outer races held in by the circlip, and there is no load placed between inner and outer races like how old school car wheel bearings are torqued. 180-200 Nm seams like the wheel would not even turn and bearing would be ruined. I’ve assembled large industrial machine gear boxes that didn’t take that much preload.
It is a crazy amount of torque they spec for this. Most guys at the track with these bikes only torque them to 100 ft-lbs and that seems sufficient. The bearings aren't tapered as I don't think they undergo much side loading - the preload would only contact the inner bearing races and lightly move the roller balls. But there is a lot of play in the spacer so that's a lot of slop to take up while tightening...
Great vids
good job!
Thanks a lot man!
Could you tell me where you got that bearing puller?
There's a link in the video description. It's the only puller that fits perfectly for this application as far as I know
Great video, can you tell me/us the part number of the puller you used. Thanks.
Thanks man! I put a link to it in the description
Super bro
Thanks man!
No loctite on the bolts ?
great job
Thanks man!
Why chop through the caliper carrier ? Just warming it up slightly with a plumbers torch would have released it, also a little tip for you so you don't lose your teeth, use a centre on your lathe when polishing shafts ..
Thanks for the tips mate, but I have neither a torch nor a center large enough for the axle. I'm also not very risk averse, I ride every day in California with ppl who have no business driving! The hub material was "mushroomed" out into the path of the caliper carrier - it had to be cut to relieve some of the tension so it could be removed
Perfekt 👍
Thanks man!
thks sir for nice video
Thanks for the comment!
Where did you get that bearing puller from?
Link is in the description
真棒👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
wow!
If ya own a Ducati you need a machine shop , tools and talent. Or loads of pesos to the dealer. Lol. Miss my 74 750ss. Should of sold the yosh honda. Lol
If you're not rich enough for the mechanic, you need to be rich enough to afford all the tools! Both great bikes you had 🍻
@@TROdesigns still have the 750 honda on a Harris frame, Campagnolo, brembo, marzocchi, mikuni , tomaselli clip ons. And a 6 speed Yosh. Yup no electric start. The ducatti was stock and still is.
my bike loosed the 4x bolts
I hope everything is okay with you and the bike!
I'm here because I can't understand the animation on rear hub mechanism in world of guns disassembly Ducati
scusate era sul video della rsv4..
Che?
Rear sporket looks way to small
I really don't see the point of single sided swinging arms too many components to achieve what a conventional swinging arm does.
Wp
HUB DESIGN IS REALLY WEAK