I’m a professional event shooter. I use the 860III off-camera and the V1 on-camera. What sets the V1 apart is the accessory kit, particularly the dome and bounce card. Yeah, I have those for my V860III, too. But, the V1’s can SPIN, letting me use the bounce card to send light in any direction. So many times I’ve used it to either block light from going forward (when there’s a shiny surface behind my subject) or bounce off a side wall while the dome is pointed up. I can even feather light from the dome. This combo can be used so quickly in so many ways that would be much harder with the V860III. I also like that the modeling light is in the head, so I can point that where I want it, especially when I’m using it as my main light, balanced with ambient, in bat cave dim conditions.
Hi, yes, true the modifiers on the V1 are very useful, I do however have an adapter I use on the V860 and allows me to use the modifiers for the v1, it cost me only 7£, similar to this one : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265563260215?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=I-88x7ayReu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dH95ykkhSPW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY, thanks.
when using v860iii off camera, you won't need the modelling lamp, so it being blocked is a mute point. The modelling light is for dark clubs where the flash is on camera and helps with focusing.
Great video! Straight to the point. I think I’ll go with the V860m3, pairing it with my m2. I use a magmod flash diffuser so missing out on the round head of the V1 is okay with me. Price is also a difference being as tho the ad200 is about the same price as the V1.
I settled on the 860 in the end, mostly because of the size. I need to carry around multiple speed lights and the round head of the V1 just takes up more room in the bag.
@@sadeqsegaraga8766 V1, all versions allegedly come with a metal foot, by the way Godox also sells replacement metal feet for the V1 which are only ~10£/$ and can easily be replaced.
I went and bought a V860iii the connector and locking mechanism of the V1 was just horrible mine broke during a wedding shoot so I can’t wait to use the 860.
Just to add something, I don't know what is the situation now, but let's say half a year ago V860iii comes with a plastic foot. And that's a big deal for owners of Sony a7iv because the plastic foot needs a lot of pushing to slide in a7iv's hot shoe. This problem was resolved with version of the flash with a metal foot.
Hi thanks for that. Yes, according to other viewers, both of them come with the metal foot now. Even the replacement foot that can be purchased separately is now made of metal, cheers👍
The V1 does have a bit more diffusion but really there shouldn’t be too much of a difference in terms of output because they’re both 76Ws, anyway thanks for pointing that out 👍
@@florinG I'm trying to find the video where some youtuber did a test with a V1 vs v860iii and the V1 -besides the green cast- had less flash output than v860iii... like around 1 stop. If I could find it, will comment again linking to that video. Cheers
my friend I usually make family shooting on the open area and on the beach .I use 70-200 mm f 2.8 lens . I use flash directly so which flash will be better ? thanks man
Hi, if it’s made for Sony and the camera has a hotshoe then yes it should work, however it’s best you check compatibility with Godox or Sony support because newer cameras can be made incompatible through software or like the case of my zv-e1 it syncs only up to 1/30.
I AM TRYING TO FIND a solution but nowhere on the internet can I find an answer. 1st of all!! When you shoot with the V1 godox flash, does the modeling light come out on its own so you can focus??? Is it like prefiring so you can focus and then the flash fires off? If yes, thats amazing. But from my understanding the V1 has to be manually activated and it stays like this the whole time. Meaning that if you are in a nightclub or at a night event photography, you will be like a firefly at the whole event and that sucks. You don't wanna be the main dish for someone's event, you will be noticed enough with the flash that will go off all the time. 2nd, this is not a question but information for MIRRORLESS photography with flash. I use a Sony A7 III which means that it does not read the red focus assist beam of the flashes. But with godox there is a solution which is... you buy for example Godox tt685s and the transmitter the godox xt2s. For some weird reason the x2ts sends a bigger red focus assist beam and it works on the mirrorless camera (AT LEAST ON THE sony a7 III & A7 II) . That's how you focus at night with flash photography on a mirrorless camera. It's weird how there is no flash in the market for the mirrorless cameras.
hi, according to Godox Sony have their own flash system that makes it incompatible with Godox's focus assist lamp and that's the case with the flashes and triggers. As for the modeling lamp it can only be turned on manually( if the flash is on the camera). I do have a solution that could potentially help you, basically after you have set you flash in whatever mode you want to use(whilst the flash is on the camera) then you can go to the modeling lamp screen and stay there without exiting and this way before taking a picture you can quickly turn it on by pressing the ok(centre button) and turn it back off, the flash will still trigger from that screen. if you have them on stands using a trigger like the XPro II can allow you to turn the modelling lamps on/off from the trigger, thanks.
Hi, yes I have put that in the description of the video. According to some other viewers It seems Godox have upgraded the foot for the V1, they now come with a metal foot. I bought mine a couple of years back when they used to made of plastic.
These are not ideal, probably a dedicated macro flash is better but there are macro diffusers which fit either of these two, however if I were to choose between the two for macro photography I’d probably get the v860iii, thanks👍
Hi, so yes, the movement of the upper half/head is identical to that of the V1. I can tilt down(facing forward) and it can positioned vertically (straight) and you can go slightly past that, so that it slightly tilts backwords basically, but if you need more tilt backwords that you can just rotate the head, thanks.
I honestly don't see the appeal of V1 at all, sure it has an even spread of light compared to V860III which I don't really see mattering that much to begin with, besides this the magnetic gel attachment is cool and quick but that's it.
Yes, I agree for me I doesn’t matter much because I do not shoot using direct flash but it matter for some other people, and attaching things to a rectangular flash can easily be achieved through adapters, it could also be a marketing strategy for Godox to diversify their products I guess.
I have 2 V1’s. The second one had a metal hot shoe and an upgraded battery. I want to buy a third flash, should I go for a third V1 or should I go with the new V860iii? I don’t know what’s smart to do.
Hi, if you plan to use it on the camera the v1’s light is a touch more even towards the end of zoom range, the v1 however has a more limited range. I believe they both come with a metal foot now, as for the battery, it depends where you buy the flash from, it can come with either the VB26 or the VB26A, other than that, the placement of the modelling lamp and the metal ring around the head, they are more or less the same flash. It will have to be your own choice depending on how you use it and what you need from the flash, I cannot recommend one, however I would still get a V1 so that the white balance will stay consistent. If I were to buy an additional flash today I’d probably get the V1, thanks.
@@florinG Hi, thanks for the quick reply! This helps a lot. Does the zoom range matter when you always point towards ceilings and walls to bounce the light? I’m thinking about getting the V1 also because of the magnetic accessories.
Picked up the v1s in January 2023 (Western Europe) had metal mount and larger battery. Was relieved as the plastic mount was notorious for breaking in the sony a7iv shoe.
Hi, the V1 should be compatible with the d1500(rebel T7) although I never had a hand on experience with the camera. I this case I had to reach out to Godox and they advised that the T7 labeled D1500 in China, is listed as compatible, however I would check with a manual and if you have the chance perhaps try it, because I cannot say it for a fact since I never had hand on experience with it, thanks.
Hi, the V1 recycles a touch faster when shot at full power, however the difference is only small it, we’re talking fraction of a second faster. I don’t see it as something that wouldn’t impact performance.
I own both and although the pro has some improvements, they are not groundbreaking or something I could not live without, if you need slightly faster recycling times and slightly better thermals the get the v1 pro but for me the improvements are sort of expensive to be worth it, if you don’t need the flash on top of the camera and use off camera flash more the ad200/200pro is probably better. Ultimately the most important things to consider is what you need from your flash, your stile and budget, thanks.
Hi, they’re not really taken from one foot away, but the thing I noticed is that on the wider end of the range they both similar, it’s only on the narrower end of the zoom range that the V860 has a bit of a pattern. Will that translate into specular highlights when shooting portraits? Probably not as much as we are taught to believe. The real advantage of the round head (for me anyway) is the ability to use all the accessories in the AK-R1 kit. The fact that the v860 creates a light pattern doesn’t bother me as 90% of the time i used them bounced or modified 👍
Hi, none of them produce a soft light as explained in the video. The light will be soft only when it is relatively large in relation to the subject. In our case using a light modifier( umbrella, softbox or bouncing the light) can help us achieve that. The difference between the two is that at long end of the zoom range the V1 is slighly better diffused and more even (not softer), which in practical term means that it can slightly reduce or hotspots or specular highlights, thanks.
I’m a professional event shooter. I use the 860III off-camera and the V1 on-camera. What sets the V1 apart is the accessory kit, particularly the dome and bounce card. Yeah, I have those for my V860III, too. But, the V1’s can SPIN, letting me use the bounce card to send light in any direction. So many times I’ve used it to either block light from going forward (when there’s a shiny surface behind my subject) or bounce off a side wall while the dome is pointed up. I can even feather light from the dome. This combo can be used so quickly in so many ways that would be much harder with the V860III. I also like that the modeling light is in the head, so I can point that where I want it, especially when I’m using it as my main light, balanced with ambient, in bat cave dim conditions.
Hi, yes, true the modifiers on the V1 are very useful, I do however have an adapter I use on the V860 and allows me to use the modifiers for the v1, it cost me only 7£, similar to this one : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265563260215?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=I-88x7ayReu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dH95ykkhSPW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY, thanks.
when using v860iii off camera, you won't need the modelling lamp, so it being blocked is a mute point. The modelling light is for dark clubs where the flash is on camera and helps with focusing.
The metal foot, the extra zoom range and lower price put the 860 mk3 ahead for me. Thank you for the video. I will be ordering one.
Good choice!
Great video! Straight to the point. I think I’ll go with the V860m3, pairing it with my m2. I use a magmod flash diffuser so missing out on the round head of the V1 is okay with me. Price is also a difference being as tho the ad200 is about the same price as the V1.
The best comparison review between the two.
Greetings from Brazil!
Thanks 👍
I settled on the 860 in the end, mostly because of the size. I need to carry around multiple speed lights and the round head of the V1 just takes up more room in the bag.
Yeah the round head does take more space👍
Straight to the facts! Great video! Exactly what I was looking for!
Glad it was helpful, thanks 👍
Excellent review/comparison... to the point with no fluff 🙏
Thanks 👍
The new V1 come with metal foot now too.
Thanks for letting me know, I’ll add that to the description of the video.
What's the new version's name?
@@sadeqsegaraga8766 V1, all versions allegedly come with a metal foot, by the way Godox also sells replacement metal feet for the V1 which are only ~10£/$ and can easily be replaced.
I went and bought a V860iii the connector and locking mechanism of the V1 was just horrible mine broke during a wedding shoot so I can’t wait to use the 860.
One of mine broke during my last event also, I will replace it with a metal foot🤔 they are poorly made no doubt😏
@@florinG wait can you replace it ? Mine literally ripped off from it.
yeah it can be replaced@@ThanhNguyen-sk6uc
I went with the AD200Pro....I wanted a higher power easy to use studio flash that could also go mobile. $30 more than the V1.
It does make sense to be honest given the slight price difference 👍
Just to add something, I don't know what is the situation now, but let's say half a year ago V860iii comes with a plastic foot. And that's a big deal for owners of Sony a7iv because the plastic foot needs a lot of pushing to slide in a7iv's hot shoe. This problem was resolved with version of the flash with a metal foot.
Hi thanks for that. Yes, according to other viewers, both of them come with the metal foot now. Even the replacement foot that can be purchased separately is now made of metal, cheers👍
i love new switch for 860ii to go fast on mode manuel vs ttl
Both flash are great.
V1 it is.
Thank you for this comparison.
Amazing comparisson!🎉
thank you! nice video! i think i will go with V1
Good choice!
Also v860iii gives a little more flash light than v1
The V1 does have a bit more diffusion but really there shouldn’t be too much of a difference in terms of output because they’re both 76Ws, anyway thanks for pointing that out 👍
@@florinG I'm trying to find the video where some youtuber did a test with a V1 vs v860iii and the V1 -besides the green cast- had less flash output than v860iii... like around 1 stop. If I could find it, will comment again linking to that video. Cheers
I’m actually going to put that to the test, and if there’s a difference in output, I’ll add it to the description of the video, thanks ✌️
@@florinG Excellent. Thanks!
Spot on information, thanks
You're very welcome!
Cheers mate!
Since the larger zoom range, is it correct the v860 would be better to use with a fisheye? (although 20mm is still not as wide as a fisheye)
The V860 would make more sense if used on the camera with an ultrawide lens, thanks.
V860III hands down.
Tnx!
You’re welcome ✌️
If I regret my purchase it’s your fault! 😂 this is the last video I’m watching before I purchase one or the other. The ball is in your court mate! 😂
Fair enough😄, I own both and use them on a regular basis. Both are great and I’m sure whichever one you chose you won’t regret it, cheers.
my friend I usually make family shooting on the open area and on the beach .I use 70-200 mm f 2.8 lens . I use flash directly so which flash will be better ? thanks man
Probably the v860 III because it covers all the zoom range which can be important for direct flash, thanks👍
thank you so much my friend.@@florinG
Which model would be better for Real estate Photography?
Hi, I’m not an expert in real estate photography, but I reckon the V860’s extended zoom range could benefit this type of photography, thanks.
For off camera (I will use godox softbox), which one to choose?
Hi, do you have a light or you plan to get one ? What sort of scenario/type of photography do you plan to use it for?
perfect, thanks👍
Hey, i'm new in photography. Is it compatible with sony a7cii?
Hi, if it’s made for Sony and the camera has a hotshoe then yes it should work, however it’s best you check compatibility with Godox or Sony support because newer cameras can be made incompatible through software or like the case of my zv-e1 it syncs only up to 1/30.
Thank you very much
You are welcome
I AM TRYING TO FIND a solution but nowhere on the internet can I find an answer. 1st of all!! When you shoot with the V1 godox flash, does the modeling light come out on its own so you can focus??? Is it like prefiring so you can focus and then the flash fires off? If yes, thats amazing. But from my understanding the V1 has to be manually activated and it stays like this the whole time. Meaning that if you are in a nightclub or at a night event photography, you will be like a firefly at the whole event and that sucks. You don't wanna be the main dish for someone's event, you will be noticed enough with the flash that will go off all the time.
2nd, this is not a question but information for MIRRORLESS photography with flash. I use a Sony A7 III which means that it does not read the red focus assist beam of the flashes. But with godox there is a solution which is... you buy for example Godox tt685s and the transmitter the godox xt2s. For some weird reason the x2ts sends a bigger red focus assist beam and it works on the mirrorless camera (AT LEAST ON THE sony a7 III & A7 II) . That's how you focus at night with flash photography on a mirrorless camera.
It's weird how there is no flash in the market for the mirrorless cameras.
hi, according to Godox Sony have their own flash system that makes it incompatible with Godox's focus assist lamp and that's the case with the flashes and triggers.
As for the modeling lamp it can only be turned on manually( if the flash is on the camera). I do have a solution that could potentially help you, basically after you have set you flash in whatever mode you want to use(whilst the flash is on the camera) then you can go to the modeling lamp screen and stay there without exiting and this way before taking a picture you can quickly turn it on by pressing the ok(centre button) and turn it back off, the flash will still trigger from that screen. if you have them on stands using a trigger like the XPro II can allow you to turn the modelling lamps on/off from the trigger, thanks.
kinda weird,, I checked pictures on website other V1 looks like to have metal hot shoe
Hi, yes I have put that in the description of the video. According to some other viewers It seems Godox have upgraded the foot for the V1, they now come with a metal foot. I bought mine a couple of years back when they used to made of plastic.
Can you make guide how to link them to x1 trigger , x2 trigger , x 3 trigger ?
I’ll consider it, thanks.
V1 led is not bright enough to lit when bounce flash
The led lamp can keep the scene lit between the flashes, could help with the focus and framing your shot if the scene is very dark ✌️
please answer me,which of these two flashes is better for macro photography?
These are not ideal, probably a dedicated macro flash is better but there are macro diffusers which fit either of these two, however if I were to choose between the two for macro photography I’d probably get the v860iii, thanks👍
@@florinGthanks for the answer, I'm just asking you to suggest, if you know, which flash for macro photography
Can the tt860iii flash head tilt back like the V1?
Hi, so yes, the movement of the upper half/head is identical to that of the V1. I can tilt down(facing forward) and it can positioned vertically (straight) and you can go slightly past that, so that it slightly tilts backwords basically, but if you need more tilt backwords that you can just rotate the head, thanks.
The led on v860iii gone orange yellow over time
ZenPhotoCraft Media thanks for all your input!
@@florinG they are good speed light . And a good eco system
I honestly don't see the appeal of V1 at all, sure it has an even spread of light compared to V860III which I don't really see mattering that much to begin with, besides this the magnetic gel attachment is cool and quick but that's it.
Yes, I agree for me I doesn’t matter much because I do not shoot using direct flash but it matter for some other people, and attaching things to a rectangular flash can easily be achieved through adapters, it could also be a marketing strategy for Godox to diversify their products I guess.
I have 2 V1’s. The second one had a metal hot shoe and an upgraded battery. I want to buy a third flash, should I go for a third V1 or should I go with the new V860iii? I don’t know what’s smart to do.
Hi, if you plan to use it on the camera the v1’s light is a touch more even towards the end of zoom range, the v1 however has a more limited range. I believe they both come with a metal foot now, as for the battery, it depends where you buy the flash from, it can come with either the VB26 or the VB26A, other than that, the placement of the modelling lamp and the metal ring around the head, they are more or less the same flash. It will have to be your own choice depending on how you use it and what you need from the flash, I cannot recommend one, however I would still get a V1 so that the white balance will stay consistent. If I were to buy an additional flash today I’d probably get the V1, thanks.
@@florinG Hi, thanks for the quick reply! This helps a lot. Does the zoom range matter when you always point towards ceilings and walls to bounce the light? I’m thinking about getting the V1 also because of the magnetic accessories.
@@OmgMustafaThe wider zoom does make a small difference when bouncing light, thanks.
Picked up the v1s in January 2023 (Western Europe) had metal mount and larger battery.
Was relieved as the plastic mount was notorious for breaking in the sony a7iv shoe.
is godox v1 compatible with canon t7
Hi, the V1 should be compatible with the d1500(rebel T7) although I never had a hand on experience with the camera. I this case I had to reach out to Godox and they advised that the T7 labeled D1500 in China, is listed as compatible, however I would check with a manual and if you have the chance perhaps try it, because I cannot say it for a fact since I never had hand on experience with it, thanks.
Which one recycles faster?
Hi, the V1 recycles a touch faster when shot at full power, however the difference is only small it, we’re talking fraction of a second faster. I don’t see it as something that wouldn’t impact performance.
both have HSS?
They both have it yes👍
V1 or Pro V1. I am so poor to put myself on decision Lmao
I own both and although the pro has some improvements, they are not groundbreaking or something I could not live without, if you need slightly faster recycling times and slightly better thermals the get the v1 pro but for me the improvements are sort of expensive to be worth it, if you don’t need the flash on top of the camera and use off camera flash more the ad200/200pro is probably better. Ultimately the most important things to consider is what you need from your flash, your stile and budget, thanks.
The round head is a scam. You’ll notice the test shots are from 1 foot. Man light is light. After 3 feet all light is round.
Hi, they’re not really taken from one foot away, but the thing I noticed is that on the wider end of the range they both similar, it’s only on the narrower end of the zoom range that the V860 has a bit of a pattern. Will that translate into specular highlights when shooting portraits? Probably not as much as we are taught to believe. The real advantage of the round head (for me anyway) is the ability to use all the accessories in the AK-R1 kit. The fact that the v860 creates a light pattern doesn’t bother me as 90% of the time i used them bounced or modified 👍
There is an adapter to use the round head accessories with a fresnel head. I use it with an old TT600 and the grid as a hairlight
My v860iii stop flash firing after 2 years
My 685 is firing less often after 2 years, too!
Talking slower would be helpful...keep having to rewind...
I’ll consider that, thanks for the feedback✌️
You weren't much help
I did explain every single difference between them and showed examples, if that’s not enough then it’s not the video that’s the problem✌️
Thank you very much, which flash produces softer light? .. 🤍
Hi, none of them produce a soft light as explained in the video. The light will be soft only when it is relatively large in relation to the subject. In our case using a light modifier( umbrella, softbox or bouncing the light) can help us achieve that. The difference between the two is that at long end of the zoom range the V1 is slighly better diffused and more even (not softer), which in practical term means that it can slightly reduce or hotspots or specular highlights, thanks.