Well, I had to watch the first half of this video about 4 times to finally wrap my head around the math. But it saved me ruining a joint on nice wood so it was well worth it. Thanks.
I am late to the party but I have a question: you are doubling the size of the bushing to compensate for near and far side of bit but coming up with a 1/16" inch variation in curve radii. Your example ends with a 1/4" bit using a 3/8" bushing for 1/16" variation. Why then can you not just use a 1/4" flush trim bit without a bushing to eliminate the variation?? Just curious
That might be better.. only way to know is grab a piece of paper and sketch out both set ups and see what the distance from the template is for both of them.
Very cool. I am starting a project to join two slabs of butternut into a table and would like to do a curved centre joint as you have done. Did your clamping eliminate the 1/16" variance between the two router cuts or is there another step in there? Could you post the math to size the router guides that you skipped in the video?
I just responded to your email. But for everyone else the relevant bit is: If you use a 1/4” bit in a 3/8” bushing and a 7/8” bushing, the cut could be the same distance from the template both times, creating identical lines. Of course that’s assuming your bit is perfectly centered in the bushing.
What about this, make a large template out of something thin like paper. Cut the curve pattern once with scissors so that there isn't any kerf. Then trace each side onto the slab. Make the 2 cuts then the pieces should line up. Wouldn't that work?
Yes and no. In theory it does. The practical problem is that would require you to perfectly follow two lines freehand with a tool that won’t require any clean up of the cut edge.
You're totally right, my eye is not drawn to the center. I would have to look hard to see that this is not all one slab. Some really good tips in there! Thanks for sharing!
+Bruce A. Ulrich thanks! Yeah.. I misspoke. That’s why I did it this way. So I could cover it. If I crammed everything in one video I don’t think this would have received the detail it deserved.
Hi, found the video very informative and I would love to use this method on making a panel for a table top. Could you "not spare us the math" and post a formula :) My problem is that I live in Denmark and we use the metric system. But if you could post an imperial formula I’m pretty sure I could convert and check to see if my "Scandinavian" understanding is sound. Cheers for the great upload :)
It’s actually simpler than I thought, I’ve spent a lot of time thinking on it since I’ve done this video. You just need to use the same bit, a bushing close in size to the bit, and a bushing double the size of the smaller. For example, a 10mm bit, 20mm and 40mm bushings. If you alternate cutting on the “near” side and “far” side, then both times you’ll be cutting 15mm from the edge of the template. Same with 5mm bit, and 10 and 20 bushings. Or 7 and 14mm bushing. So long as the bushing are double and you don’t change the bit, I think it always works out.
Thanks Caleb :) That was a super quick response - I didn’t even see that you commented right after, and in metric too! :) That puts my mind at ease and I’ll order the bushings I need. When my project works out I’ll call that a transatlantic joint venture because the info was so important. Cheers and thank you for elaborating on the method. It’s much appreciated. All the best Martin :)
I like your idea of joining table top boards following the grain. MY thought method is Place one board on top of the other board appropriately, Shim and block as needed underneath the upper board ,clamp as needed to hold all boards in place. Then make your curved cut cutting both boards at the same time. I would like to try it this way, possibly easier. One would need a heavy duty jig saw w long and stout enough blade that would cut perfectly on the vertical. Thanks for the idea
re: your cardboard example: wouldn't those gaps be due to the marker being on one side of the bottle moving across the first piece of cardboard rather than a spinning router bit. I'm not sure your hypothesis holds up. I'd love to know if and where I'm wrong though. Thanks, Ben.
No worries, I'm happy to elaborate. Imagine in your mind that markers were wrapped all the way around the bottle and it was spinning. It would leave a blacked out path the full width.. but ultimately only the edge farthest from the template matters because that is the what the edge of the adjoining slab will look like. That's why I only bothered with one marker and not spinning. But you're still right about it not being a perfect representation, but that doesn't eliminate the error I'm talking about. I'm not sure how geometry savvy you are.. just recall that a radius is of a circle, half the diameter. Ultimately, a curve is simply part of a circle. We describe curves by talking about their radius, or rather.. if you followed the curve into a full circle, what the radius of that circle would be. The small the radius, the smaller the circle, and the "tighter" the curve. Imagine you have a cylinder and you try to cut a hole for it to fit into. You're going to run a tool around that cylinder, but the tool has a width. The hole you make is going to be a circle, but that circle's radius will be the radius of the old circle plus the width of the tool. The two curves do not match because they're from different circles with different radii. When you have a curve on a line the same principle applies, but our minds don't follow that easily and the difference is normally so slight it's not immediately obvious. ..Unless you're trying to join some really expensive boards together, haha.
Then you’d be getting the rough shape. But the problem is it’s not copying the curves, it’s changing the radius. Think about putting a lid on a board and running a bit. You’d copy the size of the lid.. but it wouldn’t fit in the hole because of the kerf removed.. the hole in the board is a different radius.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo I see your point, very hard to get my head around. I do see your point about the router bit, when you cut on one side of the bit or the shaft and then cut on the other, the width of the bit changes the cut. VERY helpful stuff....got to THINK doing this work!
I project the pattern I want to draw onto anything. Easy. First take a pic of your curved piece. Then load into projector and project onto original so it is the same size and there's your template. Put the new piece in same spot same distance away and whalla. I use the projector for many many things. It is great for detailed art and massive sizes.
I get the idea, it’s great and very useful. Just for me it wouldn’t help a lot with this because I need a guide for the router to follow. I couldn’t free hand the line perfectly like it would need to be. Anything I’d do to clean it up would mess up the match.
Very very interesting, to get them perfect could you do everything you done but before you cut the domino's clamp the slabs so they have a 1/8" gap between the the curves then run you template bit with the template in the middle of the gap so you cut 1/16" off each side of each slab. Would this work? Just an idea 😀
Right?! I wish we were a metric country. It makes so much more sense. Unfortunately I don’t have an intuition for it and trying to work in it is counter productive because everything I work with is in imperial anyway.
His Subscribers are NOT Children. Adults who work with machines know about wearing safety glasses. Adults do not imitate other adults. Children and dumb-asses, yes. Children should have Adult supervision and dumb-asses ... who cares.
Watched the rest of the video. Again Mathew with the long flush trim cutter, who is in charge of him, who is letting him work in this total disregard for his own safety and total disregard for any health and safety in the workshop
You are the type of guy that has helped destroy the hand crafting /metalworking industry! Health and safety has gone crazy....the guy using the tools was obviously taught correctly about danger and when to wear safety gear by a tradesman who learned his craft the same way. Nowadays apprentices(if you can get them to work) would be complaining about splinters in fingers and working out how to get a claim!-driven by the cotton wool wrapping politically correct folks that have never lifted a tool in their life...…..rant over ,coffee and a biscuit now( only after sterilising my hands in case a bad germ gets me from my keyboard)
I am very thankful for the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO that has been a tremendous help to me in building a perfect outdoor shed. I have been facing many challenges and difficulties for a long time, but this plan has guided me to correct the mistakes during the process. I am impressed by the projects and I express my gratitude to the creator of this collection of plans.
I'm sorry, I was typing as I was watching the video (great work, by the way, thank you). I guess my question is - why use a router and not just a jigsaw? Jigsaw cuts are not as smooth, I get it, but ultimately they can be brought to acceptable smoothness with a little sanding, right? Wouldn't this approach waste less material?
Ah I see now! The issue isn’t being able to get them smoooth, but duplicating two curves exactly on two boards. A router can be that accurate with a template, a jigsaw can’t be. The glue joint wouldn’t be very strong and there’d be a lot of gap filling to do.
Well, I had to watch the first half of this video about 4 times to finally wrap my head around the math. But it saved me ruining a joint on nice wood so it was well worth it. Thanks.
Glad you figured it out!
Just built a dining table using this method, worked out great. Thanks very much!
That’s awesome! Feel free to email me pics or tag me on Instagram. I’d love to see it.
I will indeed, all the best.
Your explanation of tools and their precise purpose is exceptional!! You've eared a Subscribe! Thank you Sir!
Thank you Jim! That’s what I try to do 👍👍 always good to hear I’m succeeding.
I am late to the party but I have a question: you are doubling the size of the bushing to compensate for near and far side of bit but coming up with a 1/16" inch variation in curve radii. Your example ends with a 1/4" bit using a 3/8" bushing for 1/16" variation. Why then can you not just use a 1/4" flush trim bit without a bushing to eliminate the variation?? Just curious
That might be better.. only way to know is grab a piece of paper and sketch out both set ups and see what the distance from the template is for both of them.
Wow! Very impressive.
Thanks!
Excellent video thank you
Thanks for watching!
Clever! Very clever. Great advice. Thanks.
Thank you!
Amazing way to join.your explanation was great
Thanks! Glad it was understandable
I can’t get over how much Matthew dwarfs you 😂. Great video sweetie. I hate I didn’t get to see the table in person before you delivered it!
+Callee Harris haha he definitely does make me look rather small.
Very good video, Caleb! Informative.
+David Hale thanks, David!
Very cool. I am starting a project to join two slabs of butternut into a table and would like to do a curved centre joint as you have done. Did your clamping eliminate the 1/16" variance between the two router cuts or is there another step in there? Could you post the math to size the router guides that you skipped in the video?
I just responded to your email. But for everyone else the relevant bit is:
If you use a 1/4” bit in a 3/8” bushing and a 7/8” bushing, the cut could be the same distance from the template both times, creating identical lines. Of course that’s assuming your bit is perfectly centered in the bushing.
Great video and instructions. Can you send me the 2nd video or a detail shot of finished table? Thanks.
The second video with several detail shots will be out this week.
Awesome! Looks great!
+GoodView Woodworks thanks!
How you prevent the crack ? Your piece is dry since how long ?
Cracking along the edge? That's just the nature of sycamore drying. It was kiln dried.
This table works for me!!
Me too!
Looks really nice but I'd have liked a closer look at the finished top.
Why not use a 1-inch and 1/2-inch diameter bushing? With the 1/4-inch bit, that should be perfect, right?
That would nail it.
Very helpful!
Great to hear!
Nice tutorial brother! Table is killer!
Thanks, Chris!
What about this, make a large template out of something thin like paper. Cut the curve pattern once with scissors so that there isn't any kerf. Then trace each side onto the slab. Make the 2 cuts then the pieces should line up. Wouldn't that work?
Yes and no. In theory it does. The practical problem is that would require you to perfectly follow two lines freehand with a tool that won’t require any clean up of the cut edge.
thank you
You’re welcome
Great way to join the slabs. You can barely tell it isn't one big slab.
Thanks, I’m really happy with how it worked
Love this video.👍🏻🤙🏻
Thank you! It’s an interesting technique.
You're totally right, my eye is not drawn to the center. I would have to look hard to see that this is not all one slab. Some really good tips in there! Thanks for sharing!
+Bruce A. Ulrich thanks Bruce! Yeah I picked up so much doing this. Didn’t want to just skim over it in the build video.
I don't feel like you skimmed over it at all. I think you did a great job explaining all of the little bits.
+Bruce A. Ulrich thanks! Yeah.. I misspoke. That’s why I did it this way. So I could cover it. If I crammed everything in one video I don’t think this would have received the detail it deserved.
Could you do the same on a water cutting table intended to steel plate?
Good question, I don’t know how wood reacts to water cutting.
Great approach to an annoying problem. FYI, your amazon trial link is broken
Thanks for letting me know! I'll fix that.
Hi, found the video very informative and I would love to use this method on making a panel for a table top. Could you "not spare us the math" and post a formula :)
My problem is that I live in Denmark and we use the metric system. But if you could post an imperial formula I’m pretty sure I could convert and check to see if my "Scandinavian" understanding is sound. Cheers for the great upload :)
It’s actually simpler than I thought, I’ve spent a lot of time thinking on it since I’ve done this video. You just need to use the same bit, a bushing close in size to the bit, and a bushing double the size of the smaller.
For example, a 10mm bit, 20mm and 40mm bushings. If you alternate cutting on the “near” side and “far” side, then both times you’ll be cutting 15mm from the edge of the template. Same with 5mm bit, and 10 and 20 bushings. Or 7 and 14mm bushing. So long as the bushing are double and you don’t change the bit, I think it always works out.
Thanks Caleb :)
That was a super quick response - I didn’t even see that you commented right after, and in metric too! :)
That puts my mind at ease and I’ll order the bushings I need. When my project works out I’ll call that a transatlantic joint venture because the info was so important.
Cheers and thank you for elaborating on the method. It’s much appreciated.
All the best
Martin :)
@@martinchristensen7325 Haha no worries, I think your comment came in while I happened to be doing responses!
I like your idea of joining table top boards following the grain. MY thought method is Place one board on top of the other board appropriately, Shim and block as needed underneath the upper board ,clamp as needed to hold all boards in place. Then make your curved cut cutting both boards at the same time. I would like to try it this way, possibly easier. One would need a heavy duty jig saw w long and stout enough blade that would cut perfectly on the vertical. Thanks for the idea
Do designers hate sectionals?
You’d have to ask them
re: your cardboard example: wouldn't those gaps be due to the marker being on one side of the bottle moving across the first piece of cardboard rather than a spinning router bit. I'm not sure your hypothesis holds up. I'd love to know if and where I'm wrong though. Thanks, Ben.
I think I'm understanding now but was overthinking the issue with your analogy. Thanks.
No worries, I'm happy to elaborate. Imagine in your mind that markers were wrapped all the way around the bottle and it was spinning. It would leave a blacked out path the full width.. but ultimately only the edge farthest from the template matters because that is the what the edge of the adjoining slab will look like. That's why I only bothered with one marker and not spinning. But you're still right about it not being a perfect representation, but that doesn't eliminate the error I'm talking about.
I'm not sure how geometry savvy you are.. just recall that a radius is of a circle, half the diameter. Ultimately, a curve is simply part of a circle. We describe curves by talking about their radius, or rather.. if you followed the curve into a full circle, what the radius of that circle would be. The small the radius, the smaller the circle, and the "tighter" the curve.
Imagine you have a cylinder and you try to cut a hole for it to fit into. You're going to run a tool around that cylinder, but the tool has a width. The hole you make is going to be a circle, but that circle's radius will be the radius of the old circle plus the width of the tool. The two curves do not match because they're from different circles with different radii. When you have a curve on a line the same principle applies, but our minds don't follow that easily and the difference is normally so slight it's not immediately obvious. ..Unless you're trying to join some really expensive boards together, haha.
That was one "Heavy Duty" jigsaw!
Ain’t it?!
Why couldn't you finish one edge, lay it on top of the other and follow the edge with the router then flip one?
Then they’d be mirror images instead of the inverse. Both would have a bump in the middle and pull away at the ends or vice versa.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo Finish one edge, raise it and slide it over the other and then follow it.
I suppose you would be cutting on the OTHER side of the router bit that way.
Then you’d be getting the rough shape. But the problem is it’s not copying the curves, it’s changing the radius. Think about putting a lid on a board and running a bit. You’d copy the size of the lid.. but it wouldn’t fit in the hole because of the kerf removed.. the hole in the board is a different radius.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo I see your point, very hard to get my head around. I do see your point about the router bit, when you cut on one side of the bit or the shaft and then cut on the other, the width of the bit changes the cut. VERY helpful stuff....got to THINK doing this work!
Could do it fast with my projector
Getting the line down fast would be easy. The trick with a projector would be perfectly free handing a line, twice.
I project the pattern I want to draw onto anything. Easy. First take a pic of your curved piece. Then load into projector and project onto original so it is the same size and there's your template. Put the new piece in same spot same distance away and whalla. I use the projector for many many things. It is great for detailed art and massive sizes.
I can do massively intricate stuff with it. No cardboard needed or anything like that. This is faster and more accurate.
I get the idea, it’s great and very useful. Just for me it wouldn’t help a lot with this because I need a guide for the router to follow. I couldn’t free hand the line perfectly like it would need to be. Anything I’d do to clean it up would mess up the match.
Ahh I see. Well you could use a projector to make the template fast.
Very very interesting, to get them perfect could you do everything you done but before you cut the domino's clamp the slabs so they have a 1/8" gap between the the curves then run you template bit with the template in the middle of the gap so you cut 1/16" off each side of each slab. Would this work? Just an idea 😀
+Jay Sybrandy nope! The problem is the width of the tool itself.. not much you cut in a pass.
Such a top for hairpin legs?
It’s what the client wanted
nice work, but it sounds so much more difficult when you have to use imperial measurements (fractions of inches)
Right?! I wish we were a metric country. It makes so much more sense. Unfortunately I don’t have an intuition for it and trying to work in it is counter productive because everything I work with is in imperial anyway.
First time watching. Noticed Mathew using the router with no eye protection or mask. Is this something you want your subscribers to imitate
Thanks for reminding me I need to add the whole “safety is a personal responsibility” bit.
His Subscribers are NOT Children. Adults who work with machines know about wearing safety glasses. Adults do not imitate other adults.
Children and dumb-asses, yes. Children should have Adult supervision and dumb-asses ... who cares.
Watched the rest of the video. Again Mathew with the long flush trim cutter, who is in charge of him, who is letting him work in this total disregard for his own safety and total disregard for any health and safety in the workshop
We were in his business that he owns, so he is. We actually talked about it. He knows better, sounds like you do too.
You have nothing on your screen name, no likes, no playlists, etc....nothing. Did you create this name just so you can bash this guys videos?
You are the type of guy that has helped destroy the hand crafting /metalworking industry! Health and safety has gone crazy....the guy using the tools was obviously taught correctly about danger and when to wear safety gear by a tradesman who learned his craft the same way. Nowadays apprentices(if you can get them to work) would be complaining about splinters in fingers and working out how to get a claim!-driven by the cotton wool wrapping politically correct folks that have never lifted a tool in their life...…..rant over ,coffee and a biscuit now( only after sterilising my hands in case a bad germ gets me from my keyboard)
I am very thankful for the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO that has been a tremendous help to me in building a perfect outdoor shed. I have been facing many challenges and difficulties for a long time, but this plan has guided me to correct the mistakes during the process. I am impressed by the projects and I express my gratitude to the creator of this collection of plans.
With a mechanical joint supplemented by glue.
Why not use a jigsaw?
I mean, use a jigsaw for the all the cuts?
You mean why did I use the router to mark a line before the jigsaw?
I'm sorry, I was typing as I was watching the video (great work, by the way, thank you). I guess my question is - why use a router and not just a jigsaw? Jigsaw cuts are not as smooth, I get it, but ultimately they can be brought to acceptable smoothness with a little sanding, right? Wouldn't this approach waste less material?
Ah I see now! The issue isn’t being able to get them smoooth, but duplicating two curves exactly on two boards. A router can be that accurate with a template, a jigsaw can’t be. The glue joint wouldn’t be very strong and there’d be a lot of gap filling to do.
Got it, thank you very much for your feedback!