Changing Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter, 1997 Subaru Legacy (Part 2) - EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Changing Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter, 1997 Subaru Legacy (Part 2) - EricTheCarGuy
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Part 1
• Changing Automatic Tra...
Well this is Part 2 of this series and I think has a few tips that make it worth watching, especially the one about how I install the transmission fasteners that's been a favorite 'trick' of mine for years and I learned it from a fellow coworker a few years ago. I'd also like to point out that this is a continuation of the Subaru performance series, here's a link to the first video in that series.
• Solving Engine Perform...
When all is said and done I'm going to make a video showing the conclusion of this odyssey and hopefully we'll have a 'fix'. Till then
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ETCG
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One little tip for everyone. If you do run your transmission up whilst all the wheels are off the ground, be very careful to make sure those wheels have stopped spinning before you put the transmission back in the 'Park' position. All too easy to make that mistake, and believe me, the transmission really will not thank you for trying to engage park with the road wheels still spinning. Use your foot brake to insure the wheels have stopped.
Hey eric. What I've come to find is you take your trans fluid, put in a half quart from each bottle in, then take your Lucas and fill the quarts with it and mix it all up as best you can then with the last two quarts, you fill up the lucas bottle with it and shake that up.. itll help give you as much lucas as possible and itll be thinner so you dont have to wait for the lucas to take 3 years to go down the tube
I did this job in a 2002 passat and a 93 chevy 1500 pickup. both had gaskets with slightly smaller holes then the pan. so I could just put the gasket on and hold it in place with the bolts. it made it really easy to reinstall
I must say, you explain it alot better then those that do there video of transmission fluid. Keep up the great work EricTheCarGuy.
Hey car guy! I do appreciate your tips. I will change ATF and filter accordingly to your instruction. My car is Legacy 2,5 liter 99yr. But I can also give U a very expensive advice. Do not ever stick up chisel between aluminum lip and oil pan. There is a far more efficient way of doing that. Just use a rubber hammer or wooden jack and hit the pan all the way around, it will go off by itself!!
Great video Eric. Very informative and thorough without a lot of b.s. I feel confident changing my own fluid and filter after watching your video. Thanks a lot man!
Very satisfying to see that transmission fluid pan all shiny and clean. Terrific work, Eric!
This past 45 minutes of watching parts 1 and 2 have blown my mind. Very bizarre looking mechanism down there. Plus the way you shot these vids under the transmission pan, I kind of thought you were in some other realm of the car universe. HaaHaaHaa. Thank you though, flawlessly done, there was nothing too farfetched to understand.
I was taught by an "old timer" to start with a clean drain pan, and measure what came out. And, save the fluid in case the transmission doesn't work after the change. You can always drain & reinstall the old fluid to keep the vehicle going until it can be rebuilt.
Yeah I dump the old into empty 5qrt oil jugs , then I know just how much to add back. 👌
I add about a quart out of my gallon jug, then I pour the lucas into my gallon jug, then continue filling, makes it so much easier....
Hi Eric, I had the same problem on my Subaru. I also had an alarm on m dash, Engine management light and flickering speedo cruise light. I changed the Coil pack and the lambda sensor and the alarms disappeared but still had the hesitation on pull away. Changed the plugs and plug wires. So I am changing my transmission fluid this week. Keeping my fingers crossed to have the same outcome as yours. Thanks for the videos, is was educational.
Thanks for this video. It's winter in MN now so I'm going to just add Dex/merc in my outback till spring and do a drain, drop, filter, lucas and fill on my outback which has started to "hesitate" going from 2nd to 3rd. I'm hoping that it's just because it's low and has a small leak somewhere. Hopefully the gasket (and filter) kit will take care of any leak. At least with this video I know I can tackle this.
I had a '95, same 2.2L and A/T, AWD too. I found measuring what I drained out was the best way to know how much fluid to put back in. Finding the right level trial and error is difficult on these as they are very touchy if you are even slightly off.
Every mechanic knows that smile when you test drive it and kno its fixed :D GOOD JOB BRAH
I mixed the conditioner with one of the other quarts of fluid together and it made it flow a lot easier into the transmission....
yeah pour half, mix in the same bottle, pour the rest, finish with a Dextron chaser.
Thanks! Watching this was easy to learn .. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback Wagon AWD ... changing the transmission oil this weekend, thanks to you.
Commenting from 4 years in the future:
My initial concern during the first part of this "series" was early stages of torque bind; , but, I waited until the end of this part to see how things would pan out. I'm happy trans fluid change and Lucas additive appeared to have resolved the issue. Torque bind is no fun. No fun at all.
There's also a situation HARD launches cause the coupler in the diff housing to shift around a bit that could lead to. The rally/drift guys install positive power diff spacers. Don't know if that be overkill on a base Legacy, but one "could" install and see if performance and handling improve. Thanks for putting these up.
Subarus respond really well to transmission fluid changes, often just a change of fluid will fix a lot of shifting or driveline issues, especially the very common "torque bind" issue.
Learned a lot about gaskets and torquing the bolts! Thanks.
If I can offer some advice - Before changing the trans fluid I check to see if it at the full mark and capture all old fluid and pour it into old 5 quart oil bottles. That way I know exactly how much fluid to add to refill.
I've got the laptop set up right here in the garage. Doing the job as I'm watching. I had the same issue as you, where someone before me rtv'd it like concrete. It took me 4 hours to get it off. But I'm about to continue. Damn, I hope this works, man!!
Did it work?
ive seen people drain the trans thinking it was the engine oil....then double fill the engine blowing out seals and other important parts......this was at the kwik kar next to my shop.
Eric, you can keep the sump gasket in place by holding one or two bolts in their holes as you lift the sump in place, then finger tighten.
Nah the best way is to put the sump gasket on then put two or three zip ties through the holes to hold the gasket then after you have got about 3 or 4 bolts back in then just cut the zip ties
I have a '98 Legacy and I used Lucas and Valvoline MaxLife ATF when I changed the fluid out...It smoothed out my jump into 2nd gear and smoothed out my rough idle as well.
After using Lucas products before I have found that it is easier to mix the fluid of choice with the Lucas and then put it in. Helps to get it to flow in faster.
I'd have to agree with you on measuring the drained fluid. You can't go wrong if you put back in what you out. When I do a drain and refill on a tranny, I pour the used tranny fluid into an oil jug and measure it out. One of the techs, who doesn't work with us anymore, did a drain and fill and put the spec. capacity in for a drain and fill. I spent over
2 hours cleaning off the fluid from the underside and the top of the tranny. It turned out to be 5 qts. overfilled. It pissed out from the vent
Proper torque is divided into three, sometimes four steps. First you tighten everything by hand. Then you apply 75% of your desired torque in a motion that's like this: As there's four corners you should go from one side to the opposite, and then the side next to it and then the opposite of that (A "4" motion). Repeat with the screw next to the first circle. THEN you apply 100% torque in the same way and finally you go one full circle at the end.
You suggested that I get the oil changed, because I told you it lagged at a stopped light to speed up etc, so I took it to o reiley and they said he wasn’t getting any codes- you said the ignition was really simple so I should do it & im SO glad I watched the second part because I’m going to request they do a flush.. maybe that’s not a routine thing at a Subaru with an oil change but I hope they can do it for me
You wouldnt believe how much a difference changing ATF does, My friend had a similar problem on his Mercedes, and as everyone knows, they have really good Automatic gearboxes, the previous owner put the wrong fluid it and it was fine for a while then it got rough and not shifting properly, took it to a Mercedes specialist and he put the proper OEm stuff in and cured.... and yeah new filter as well... like Eric said if there is a problem with the AT then probabaly change the filter as well
MISTER CAR GUY I HAVE BEEN LEARNING A LOT FROM YOU, AND STILL, AND YES YOU SUPPOSED TO CLEAN OUTSIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION PAN
Great tip on the cordless drill clutch, I never would've thought of that. I don't know much about Subarus, but keep in mind Dexron VI is NOT backwards compatible with all transmissions, despite what some GM dealers may claim. See GM TSB 04-07-30-037E. For cars that specify dex-3 or earlier, I would use the Synthetic products labeled "Universal Dexron III/Mercon." I'm using such a product (Mobil 1 Syn ATF) myself in my older transmission and it works great. I had issues with Dex VI.
Erick, you are the man. Love watching your videos. The best part is i learn something new with every video. I'm staying dirty...
Great videos, clear steps. Daughter's '91 Legacy just quit shifting on me -- I was afraid I'd blown the transmission. AutoZone had $25 filter kit. Subie is running great again (268k miles), and bonus is loss of the dead spot when accelerating from stop. Want to kill whoever torqued drain bolt. Loved pan bolts' Philips heads for unscrewing in tight corner. Grinding gasket off pan & refitting it at cat converter was hard, but other than hours cussing, went smoothly. Thanks, Eric! (50+yrs mom)
New fluid x2 solved my shifting problem in my BMW 740 which has so called lifetime fluid and that was seven years ago. Now I drain every 2nd to 3rd oil change. I think one should do this if you plan to keep the car a long time.
Great Vid!!! Thanks for the tip using a cordless drill too!!!! Good stuff man!!!! I would have never thought to use a drill to install the fasteners back in! Awesome!!!
excellent job eric you r a great technician love all your video's thank you for sharing!!!!!!
Watched this older video. Would be nice to know how many miles gave that fluid a worn out look? Great video.
your videos have been getting more amazing lately. idk how you keep improving on perfection but some how you do.
Response to the statement at 6:20: one reason to care about the cleanliness of the outside of the pan is that cleaning it might make it easier to see if there's a gasket leak next time you're under the car
trans condition worked like a miracle for me, i felt my trans grab so much harder, and so much smoother at the same time...
I actually just used it on my '96 olds achieva with 99,000 miles because it was slipping a bit from first to second. Seems to have softened it up, and for $10, totally worth it imo.
What I always do is run at least a half a quart through while the pan/drain plug is off. On both the transmission, engine oil, etc... That insures it'll push out just a bit more of dirty fluid. Many times I've seen huge amounts of dirty fluid come out just by putting a bit of fluid to push it.
James Erikson I
Good point. I still think changing the Diff Fluid would be a good idea considering how poor the maintenance was when ETCG first got it.
4:21 I use silicone paste to hold the gasket in place while I install the pan.
it might have been a pressure issue, if the filter hadn't been changed in a while it might have been restricting flow, then there might not have been enough pressure to hold the clutches together tight enough for firm shifts. my friend had this problem with 01' dodge cummins, granted those transmissions always have problems we changed the filter/fluid and the 1-2 and 2-3 shift firmed up really well. he always changed the fluid every 30k but never really touched the filter
If you have the pan off you can usually put the Lucas in the pan before you put it back up. Much easier on a pan then drops straight down.
Eric cleaned his brake reservoir couple of weeks ago but it is once again filthy!
I have to add to my previous comment that before doing the ATF flush and adding Lucas we checked the transmission fluid level and it was VERY low (like below the "low" mark) and the car has never seen an ATF flush or new ATF in the 170.000km it has. So, maybe it could have been fixed with just an ATF flush, not sure if the Lucas additive made a difference. However, my mechanic has tried it before and it did work in some other cases. Hope it helps others.
Hope it works Eric! I am not so fond of the additives, but, have used them once in a 2000 Neon and did not work. If I would floor it from a dead stop it would vibrate the car so bad until I let off the gas. Added Lucas and didn't help. I also didn't know as much as I do now
that is what I am going to do on my blazer next spring !
I use rubber cement for bike tires to stick the gasket to the pan. A light coating on the pan and light coating on the gasket and works great to hold the gasket on.
Great video as always! That lucas transmission additive, if i ever had a problem it helped me a lot with slipping trans.
I always use the red gasket spray adhesive. never had luck with rtv on pans.
Great vid
In process of doing something similar to a 2001 maxima with 202 k miles
It was shifting very bad almost impossible to drive p0744 code also
Drain 1
12/24/2019
Drained about 1 gallon out
Fluid came out black and brown but didn’t smell bad or have metal shaves or metallic tint.
I added Lucus and Valvoline max life synthetic ATF. It was shifting better after but the 1-2 shift was still bad.
I also cleared CEL
After 72 miles it came back on same. Code
But it drove better so continued to drive
After 330 miles it was a lot better
After 600 miles it was even better
After 900 miles it was almost back to normal. I then cleared CEL again
It came back on in 200 miles or so
I cleared it again a few times
Then the last time it took 500 miles before p0744 showed up and was getting better shifting the more it was driven.
Really suspect it was sticking valves or solenoids. I checked fluid again and it is already black again, so I am going. To change atf again and add Lucus.
If this doesn’t help I may have to change the fluid a 3rd time or open up transmission and change filter and solenoids. ( the Nissan part is pretty cheep 31940-80X25. 70-125 For all 5 solenoid and wire harness)
Transmission code
RE4F04B
Drain 2 is tomorrow:
Staying dirty
i always put a thin layer of gasket sealer on each side of the gasket to be sure it wont leak. and that way it will fill in any little scratches/dents the gasket won't
On the refill amount... if you know you've got the proper level before the drain, you can measure what you've removed and then you know how much you need to add back.
i got a tip for emptieng bottles of lucas, poke a hole in the top of it so that it drains faster, just an idea i work in a shop where time is critical its a good idea, have a good day and stay cool in this weather:)
Eric, here is a tip. Seafoam ur subaru engine, once all the carbon is removed that will improve ur performance issue.
I just bought a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback with an automatic transmission yesterday. It's got 170k miles. The previous owner bought the car at 155k and had it for a little over a year. He said he hasn't changed the tranny fluid since he bought it.
I was on the freeway driving home, I noticed that the transmission has a some kind of whine, pretty loud IMO. Hopefully doing this same job and adding Lucas treatment will help remedy the whining noise. I'd be sad if the tranny or diff is broken :(
I'm no expert Brede, but I'm guessing it can lock because it can cause the system tq bias to be 50/50. Early Subaru in AWD plus automatic were front biased until slip was detected. The car was detecting "slip" as it pumped power out back. It's 15 years old stuff is wore out than so I would equate that noise to the diff trying to get power down. In the car's defense it was in air and it was never intended to be run that way so things acted a little weird.
Thank you so much for the tip on using a power drill to torque down those bolts! I would have never thought of that. I was getting ready to drop $80 on a 1/4-inch torque wrench but I can get by just fine with using my drill.
eighty bucks for a single tool... if in doubt, especially on iron based fasteners into aluminum so to snug them up then a quarter turn, just like Eric has mentioned before, been working on cars for years and never once had an issue, sure every fastener has a "torque" setting, but I save those for really important parts, like heads, intakes, wheels, I've even torqued water pump bolts starting out, but once you do it awhile, you get a "feel" for how tight they should be... if you are in doubt you can always get a special tool for it, but it's not overly necessary.
Tim Vincent true that
i mean some engines and their parts, you not only need to torque them but you need to place a measuring tool on them to determine "stretch"... so torque is immaterial in those situations because the design is around a different parameter and not torque... as the primary concern...
If we want to get technical, the small amount of grease on the outside of the engine ect. will act as a rust/ oxidation inhibitor as it will keep oxygen from actually getting to the metal/ aluminum underneath it.
when u went to test drive i wish you had previous video that shows how it was driving before the fix but again thanx for the good stuff
My '05 Mazda6 has a drain plug but no serviceable filter. Every other oil service I'll drain the trans and I add a half quart Lucas to it. Keeps it shifting smooth and the fluid reasonably fresh.
Totally agree! I couldn't even imagine owning or DD an automatic. I would probably pass out at the wheel because of the shear boredom automatics cause.
Love the cordless drill trick with the drain pan bolts!
Scotty Kilmer showed a trick where you actually place the bottle of conditioner in a pot of boiling water (placing the bottle in the lukewarm water, then turning it up to boiling) to loosen it up.
Thank you this helps I am taking my suburu in to the mechanics now because my idle has been have issues and have had the same experience you have been having so hopefully this works for my car thank you
Okay, well I guess in different trannys with different problems will react in a different way. if the line pressure drops in some trans it will fry out a clutch pack. when I said "it caused it to shift slower and harder" I meant it was harder for the tranny to shift and sometimes didn't shift for several seconds and then not at all. Miss worded on my part. it does work in Manuals with a lot of wear, made my t5 shift smoother.
On Audi's older models, you change the filter every 2nd time. 60k km intervals. It's a bit trickier to do it yourself tho, since the refill cap is in the pan.
Because I always have trouble guessing how much AT fluid to add, I just measure the oil removed and replace what I removed. Especially with a vehicle that has no drain plug, it saves time.
The "BG" brand trans additive works awsome! I sware by it.
vasiline works great as assembly lube and it drips clear so it doesnt mimic a leak
Thanks allot man! Mine is doing the same thing, ruled out fuel pump and filter so I guess I’ll do my tranny maintenance next!
FYI The easiest way to add that thick LUCAS fluid is by mixing it with each of your new tranny fluid 1st before pouring it in
Eric, You are a very good tech and do alot of things by the book not the flat rate way. But using an electric gun to bolt up little 10mm bolts to that trans your askin for those to snap. i remember when i was doing a fluid drain and refill / filter awhile ago. An old dinosaur thats been in the field for over 30 years saw me using a cordless 1/4 snap on gun to the pan and he screamed at me and yanked it out of my hands and gave me a 1/4 ratchet.
Just a little fact check, no such thing as "Dextron" it's Dexron. As mentioned, DexVI is not suitable for DexIII applications, it's simply too thin. That's a really nice magnet design all cars should have that, simple but smart engineering. I don't think the rags used are a problem, but still me personally I wash the pan with soap and water then air compressor dry.
According to the FSM you are not supposed to use a wire wheel on the mating surface, but I do it all the time no problems yet.
Hi! just finished an oil change gear/motor/baxck diferential + filters and coolent water.
This vid. was just in time :)
When working with the lucas stuff I like to mix it with the other stuff to make it thinner and easier to work with.
I love using lucas. I use it for every thing. Gas, Oil, Transmission, power steering.
Awesome! Always great when you do little things to improve engine performance! :)
There is absolutely no way Lucas oil additive will fix a rod knock. Rod knock is produced from worn out or melted bearings with excessive clearence. The extremely thick goop might have quieted the knock to the point where you can't hear it above the rest of the engine noise, but it doesn't change the fact that the bearings are toast, and it'll eventually snap a rod and send it outside for a bit of sunshine. Fix the problem not the symptoms.
soooo....did it fix the prob?
Guess you didn’t watch the video
@@Justme-jt1ef " going to he driving it over the next few days to see how that Lucas works out". And did it work out well?
lol I tried out that lucas trans fix during the winter.... it seriously took a good 30 min to get it in the trans.
should be noted that this shows the process for a phase 1 transmission. the phase 2 uses an external oil filter.
ETCG, Maybe you need to change the fluid in the diff. I noticed that the rear wheels were running unsually slow when you had it off the ground.
At 14:40 check the rear tires in comparison to the fronts. The rears demonstrate that hesitation you described. Check the AWD system, especially the rear portion of it. The fact that I heard a loud click and the rears suddenly caught up to the fronts makes me even more curious. Of course, you've sold it already, so this is moot I suppose.
Cody Triplett That comment was made before the Worst Subaru Timing Belt Video series.
I was thinking the same. I was wondering how you can tell if the Lucas was actually necessary.
Enjoy the videos.
i use rubber gaskets start a couple threads for each bolt before installing pan then start all by hand the rubber gasket will hold bolts and gaskets in place
when u fit those funnels tight they cant breathe. if u twist it out a little while your adding fluid, so the air can escape, it goes much quicker
Great job! I use a ball peen hammer to bang out the bolt holes on the transmission pan then put the gasket on, otherwise the same way ..Keep the videos going,peace out..
A possibility; perhaps the conditioner could be mixed with the ATF before putting it into the transmission? I would expect them to be mutually soluble.
About torquing the pan bolts.... C'mon, man. You have the manual. You have the tools. All you've got to do is look it up and use the proper tool. These gaskets are designed to be used without RTV or anything else and the proper torque keeps them from leaking. You might not leak for the first year, but odds are better that you'll develop a leak.
Getting ready to do this on my beloved 2.5 soon. Thanks again Eric!
Thank you for the video. Helped me a lot on my 94 Impreza.
If you don't have programmable engine management forget about it. Those engines are very delicate and it will give you problems if you start changing things without supporting mods. Ask me how I know...
Did you ever use your new parts washer? This pan would be the PERFECT excuse to run through your parts washer!
Many car deales say that the oil should last the cars entire life... This Bullsh*! I just replaced the fluid on an Opel Omega, it doesnt even have a proper way of filling or even checking the fluid, it has to be done trough the drain plug! The drain plug sits about 4 centimeters above the bottom of the pan. Was pretty easy to fill using a small pump, and when it starts to overflow its full. Worked great!
Eric, use a block of wood and a hammer on the drain plug with a couple of sharp blows. No bendee of the pan.
I love your series. Could you do a video on replacing the shifter linkage bushings on a five speed VW manual transmission?
as far as changing filter just as well change it every time too comes with gasket usually around 15-20 bucks and good for peace of mind. of course i work on chevy alot so no drain plug