when I was younger, I worked in Chrysler, ford, gm dealerships .... mostly doing drive-ability and automatic transmissions ... but I always just jacked the right front wheel up off the ground to burp a system. Leave the cap on but have it lose, hold rpms at 2,000 rpm and watch the temp gauge rise up and down ... when you see it drop slowly return rpms to idle, remove cap and add more fluid. Usually all the air is gone from my jeep on the 2nd or 3rd cycle of the temp gauge falling
Brother fine video I just learned something new about bleeding the cooling system from my mistake. Winter time I had to let it bleed longer than in the summer time but an important lesson learned videos like yours save us money and teach us thank you for sharing
Not from my experience. I accidentally mixed the two types. No issues for over a year. I'm replacing the coolant with the correct type now because I don't want to deal with corrosion issues.
@@nacholibre5173 Good to know. maybe that's why I haven't noticed any issues with corrosion. I recently replaced the thermostat and the aluminum where it attaches to was just fine and shiny.
8:21 Same thing happened with me, it's actually the heater core opening up a pushing the trapped air out. It took over 20 minutes for the heater core to finally open up, because it was really cold where I am. As soon as all that air boiled out, the heat finally kicked right on.
Good info in your video! My daughters 2013 JKU Wrangler has weak heat from center and driver side vents again (bought it used 3/2023 from a dealer) this was an issue two days after we bought it, so the dealer flushed and burped the cooling system and it seemed fine until the other day.. weak heat again and water fall sound coming from dash.. so I went to burp the system today, used the same process you did (minus the rev’s) it was burping well.. and then, I too got the volcano at about the 20min mark..it went from fine to holy crap and a matter of seconds so I shut it down.. I’ve never had this happen and like you been wrenching for 30-some years.. I glad it is something that happens and not something that just happened to me.. 😂 so the struggle continues.. new subscriber here too. 👍🏻
Did this fix your problem? I have a 2015 wrangler i just bought on halloween and found my heater is weak on the driver and the center. Hopefully this can be a cheap fix rather than a big heater core job
You need to reverse flush the heater core. My ‘16 I did but there was nothing, didn’t really need it. My ‘13 needs to be done every couple months. I finally washed it out with CLR and flushed it again. Seems good, so far. Find a vid, it’s super easy and it works.
i bought the vacuum type sold on amazon i think it was around $90 some dollars .you are suppose to use shop air pressure to cause your vacuum . i removed the air fitting and installed a 1/8x 1/4 Schrader fitting and will use my a/c repair vacuum pump inline with a empty freon jug that i installed another Schrader so i could pull thru the empty tank and not pull into the vacuum pump.had a 1988 cherokee that would give me fits with trapped air. had to park backwards on a hill and remove temp sensor and bleed the air from that point.
The fight is real! Some vehicles have cooling systems that are a real pain to bleed out, others can be very easy. I have the UView Airlift system that you talked about and while it does work quite nicely, I will say that it works best when you start with a completely empty cooling system. The emptier, the better. Like, drain the block empty. If you don't have the system empty enough, the tool will start sucking coolant out when it's trying to vacuum air out of the system and won't pull a strong vacuum. It's also handy for leak testing the system before you fill. You pull a vacuum, close off the valve and check back in 20 minutes. If it didn't hold the same vacuum level, you have a leak. It won't tell you where the leak is, just that there is a leak. To find the leak (with a completely empty system) pressurize the system to the rated capacity on the cap and spray suspect areas with soapy water. There are pneumatic cooling system pressure testers for this.
Great info. I love my coolant pressure tester. It has saved so much time over the years finding leaks. I have an old BG coolant flush machine out back that I used when I had my Commercial repair shop. It works just like a vacuum fill set up. The tank got cracked so I just use the old funnel.
@@lstruggy manual transmission amzoil synchromesh 90k miles, T case amzoil 60k miles, front and rear differential mobil-1 70k miles. Brake line I still have to do it
Thanks for the video and your honesty. I hate doing coolant flushes because it’s messy no matter how you do it, but, like you said, it has to be done. New subscriber!
So we just run till volcano, shut down, fill and do it again until the volcano stops? I’ve also tried the vacuum and it doesn’t pull all the coolant in.
I try not to let it volcano but it happens sometimes. I would fill it and let it get hot and heat is coming from the vents. Shut it off and top it off over and over. They are bad about clogging the heater core and this slows the flow of coolant and makes it difficult to get the air out. You may need to flush the coolant system and back flush the heater core.
I have flushed the radiator and back flushed the heater core, but it just doesn’t run as cool as it used to. I’ve replaced the cap to the new OEM 17 lb cap as well. I have the funnel for the radiator and have tried to let air out. It will for about 3 cycles, then it’s a volcano so I shut it off. Also, it will fill the overflow tank, but it won’t pull back, so I’m thinking it’s because I have air in the system or a hole in the hose, but I think it’s air.
Ok I followed your suggestions and looks like I’m back in business. Looks like I got all the air out with no volcano. The system is running well. 222-226 fan comes on and cools to 215 with no volcano. Thanks man.
Cool! Thanks for watching and the feedback. Never hurts to let it cool off for a few hours after driving it real good and triple checking the level at the radiator cap.@@SniperFire45
@@HotRodDave well, I believe I may have bigger issues. It worked fine for a few days, and now it’s getting hot again. I think I have a blown head gasket.
Thank you for a detailed video. Isn't there a "bleeder valve" in the system to release the air? Have you used that before? If so, there must be a concern with it since you didn't mention it. I only ask because we used the heat in my Wife's 2012 JK this evening and it was only blowing hot when we were accelerating but the air cooled off significantly when we took the foot off of the pedal. So tomorrow I will be trying to address this issue. Thanks again!!
Yes but it is hard to get too it so I don't mess with it. It is also not at the top of the coolant system so I don't think it will work very well. I talk about it in the water pump and thermostat video on this Jeep
Thanks for the video. I just did thermostat and upper rad hose. Could get it to bleed. U reminded me to turn the heater, thanks. Duh to me. I sat my jeep at a slight incline with the front higher. I don't know if that helped but it certainly didn't hurt. Thanks again!!!
Just bought a lovely jk unlimited. Radiator leaked . Replaced it burped the system. After driving a while heat gage rises above normal centre mark and back again to the centre mark. Fan runs high speed increases noise while driving when u decelerate it slows down like non stop. Clean Radiator core heater. Still doing the same .. car was running ok . I need assistance. I just Replaced Radiator. Please guys any info to sort will be Appreciated
You have not gotten all the air out of the system. You introduced a lot of air with the radiator replacement. You probably need several heat cycles to purge the system. I have found it draws in the most coolant after it has cooled down to ambient temperature. Generally not one burp and done. Been there done that.
@@joepandolfino4281 I have burped it several times.after that I opted to replace thermostat. Sender unit temp one. Waterpump.bled burped the system again. Drove it about 30 miles gauge fluctuating mid point to overheating . Fan blowing full speed. Checked circulation when fan on. Not blowing hot air like another one I had to compare it with. One side is hot on radiator other side cold air like its got a airgap or not burped properly. Did gas into coolant test to see if headgaskets not blown twice results was good no change in colour for the chemical. Swoped radiator fans from the one mentioned above. Still same . Fan working 100 % on the other jeep. Tried everything..removed thermostat drove it around 70 miles felt like it was getting until I was almost home gauge stood just above midpoint fans full speed again. I cannot understand why it would do the same symptoms with thermostat taken out of the housing. What should I do. My experience owning a jeep jk I have save so long for is becoming a nightmare gentleman. Please help. I m considering getting a mishimoto thermostat. But I don't understand it did the same without a thermostat in the housing. s
Continue to “burp” the system. I had the best luck running it then let it cool to ambient or over night. Repeat, repeat and repeat. It may take days but it is the trapped air. BTW, if you can park the JK with front end elevated on ramps or otherwise, that will help. Perseverance
I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 3.6 liter. I’m having heater issues. The heater blows hot then cold. I checked the heater core lines they seem to be just warm after a long drive they should have been hot so I’m not sure what to check next. I did look at a video on replacing the Blender door Actuator but I’m not sure that’s it. I have noticed it’s running hotter according to my temperature gauge that normally runs in the middle but now the needle runs at about 3/4. Any suggestions? Thank you
The heater core is probably clogging up. I would do a coolant flush on the whole system and then take the heater hose lines loose and flush the heater core both directions. Make sure the water pump and thermostat are good. I have a few videos on the JK cooling system repairs. The heater cores are bad about clogging up and causing air pockets.
I think I did a flush as part of another JK video but I can't remember. I have a lot of Jeep videos. Most are under Jeeps in the playlist but some are under Auto Repair. I know I did a flush on my brothers 2013 JK and forward and reverse flushed the heater core directly at the heater hoses.
Cool video, thanks. How do you know if you have air in the lines. I tried flushing the core a few years back as my heat is room temp. Not a daily driver so I forget about it till winter. Both heater lines are hot. I may try this and see. What state are you in?
Mine had white smoke coming out of coolant from filler while filling up with new coolant after replacing thermostat any guess if that could be my water pump?
Just bought a 2013 jeep wrangler, Sahara unlimited and it has coolant running back into the cab soaking ALL floors but doesn’t overheat? I’ve never owned a jeep so any help is appreciated thank you 0:59
My 2017 has a sloshing sound in the dash frequently and has recently started going to the third line on temp gauge before it drops to middle again all while fans are racing... thinking I may need to replace thermostat and burp/bleed the system.... This is my first "fiat" jeep
If you have some milage on it it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a thermostat and water pump on it. Look at the Doorman replacement parts. They have aluminum housing to replace the plastic parts for the 3.6.
When I change my oil I also remove the fluids from the radiator, use a small diameter hose and feed it down to the bottom of the radiator, and brake reservoir. Then fill with fresh fluids. Just don't accidentally mix OAT with HOAT. Made that mistake after replacing the valve rockers...oopsie
well silly me where did you get that gadget with funnel cap? they actually sell this? or is it home made?😲 I don't think I can make something like that.
If the radiator or the heater core has build up in them it can cause it to not bleed properly and do that. Try flushing the system and flush the heater core separately in both directions thoroughly. Then re bleed the system
Hello, I got a 2021 Jeep GC, I recently changed the radiator and I’m not sure I bleed the system correctly or at all. Should I do what’s in this video? Pls help me out boss
Good afternoon my jeep family I have a 2020 Jeep Wrangler JL 2.0 L I have a quick question. Can somebody help me out with when I first turn my Jeep on and drive for about 30 minutes in bumper-to-bumper traffic my radiator or fan kicks on so loud That is embarrassing even at a red light that’s how loud it is not to mention at that moment, it starts to overheat and gauge goals basically over 200. I took it to jeep and they tell me there’s nothing wrong with it because they can’t diagnose anything and Jeep has no codes on the diagnostic but if I keep driving it like this, it’s gonna keep happening and get worse. What can I do? If you listen to the end of the video, you hear how to fan calms down and then it stops overheating  3:52
What radiator cap funnel is that? Looks like it’s actually screwed on vs the funnel I’m just pushing in place that keeps coming loose as I’m trying to do this on my own. New to us 17 JKUR and has green in the radiator/motor and pink in the reservoir so plan to drain, flush and fill so looking at burping it now.
@@andrewdecavia7553 I don't remember the brand. I bought it on a tool truck a hundred years ago. It probably is a Lisle. They make good stuff. They have a few cap sizes that come with the kit. You just have to figure out the size you need for your application.
Have a 2013 wrangler. Changed rad and thermostat. Rad was bad thermostat i broke plastic breather on thermostat. It has never ever over heated. Antifreeze keeps filling up overflow bottle. Keep putting it back in rad 2 days later overflow is full. Trying to get air out with that special funnel. Any ideas ??
The check engine light came on bought 3 weeks ago took it to AutoZone code said antifreeze issue can't remember the exact code number but it had to do with the coolant system. They asked me at AutoZone to check antifreeze level. That's the problem antifreeze goes into overflow bottle and won't go back In rad
My jeep started overheating, replaced thermostat rad cap, pump burped the system a few times and still overheating. Had a big mess when coolant started boilling too.. have you been successful? Anything figure it out? Blown head gasket?
I would have to see it in person to be able to tell what's going on. Do you have heat coming out of the vents? Air pockets are the number one problem people have after a repair has been made. Does the heater core and radiator need flushed or replaced?
@@HotRodDaveFlush been done. I figured out a way to get bubbles out of the system, ride quite rouch, left and right, the coolant will go all over the place in there, problem solved! I'm in Canada a little to far my friend.. great video
@@HotRodDave so from day one I got my Jeep only on interstate at a higher rpm my Jeep temp would creep up to like 230’s 240 then go back down to regular temp, so yesterday I took it to a valvoline shop and they did a rad flush and fill and now it’s get a lot warmer and it’s only when driving in town now! It don’t over heat at idle which is good
@@HotRodDave but my Jeep never ever over heated. I’ve read that this engine runs more hot then normal it’s just how that are, but I wanted to try and see if I could get it to not get in the higher temps like it was from day one and now these fucks made it worse. The thermostat and housing is new also
Truthfully it is not purple.. it is actually orange in color with an added purple dye so it doesn't get confused with the hoat Orange fluid. It makes it very difficult to know what is in your radiator looking into the rad Cap hole because it looks Orange from that angle . If you siphon some out and put it on a paper towel you'll see that's actually purple... the product that he is using is a perfect replacement for the oat coolant for 2013 and up. It is orange because the purple dye is not added to it
So I have a 2014 Jeep JKU Had a leak in the lower rad hose so I replaced it. But the heater has never worked as long as i’ve owned the car, never really needed to fix it given where I live it doesn’t really get cold. When burping the system (without heater on because it doesn’t work) The coolant began to boil into the funnel and I turned off the engine. Should I burp it again or is the boiling normal? Also the thermostat has not been over heating it stays very close to the middle. Thanks!
I would be figuring out why the heater doesn't work first. I would definitely do several warm up cool downs and check the fluid when it cold in the radiator. If it isn't running hot on the gauge and not pushing coolant out of the overflow/expansion tank then you are probably good. I would want to know I had heat though. Good luck to you and be careful not to get burned. Always check the coolant level when the engine is cold. Thanks for watching and the comments
@@HotRodDave yep... i'm gonna have to do this tomorrow after replacing my thermostat.. i know theres one on the thermostat, but like you said, its about useless as tits on a boar hog... my old grand cherokee had a very convenient bleeding valve up top.... on top of that, why have a bleed valve down low on the thermostat, it needs to be high, thats where air gets caught
Whatever you call it the orange stuff is crap in my opinion If you don't get rid of the air pockets the orange stuff will gel My daughter Chevy had that junk when I started changing parts even the connector from the fill to the radiator was clogged with that orange goo only it was an orange cement. I don't know who worked on it before but I cleaned everything out flush that garbage down the drain metaphorically and replaced it with good old green stuff which is a lot cheaper and simply works better as it doesn't cause any damage even if there's air in the system but you still need to flush the system as possible to get air out
I don't know on the town and country but the thermostat housing has a bleeder screw on the jeeps. They just are not easy to get to and look like a cheap plastic toy.
@@mannyjimenez1010 I could have lied and not shown what can happen but I don't like fake bs. It can be a messy job. I hope you make a video showing me what I did wrong since you are the pro. Let me ask you a question. Why did you watch the video in the first place if you are such a top notch mechanic ?
@HotRodDave it just came out on you tube,and I thought what a crappie video. I am not a pro or clame to be Mr .when I used to work as an auto technician. 👎 peace out.
when I was younger, I worked in Chrysler, ford, gm dealerships .... mostly doing drive-ability and automatic transmissions ... but I always just jacked the right front wheel up off the ground to burp a system. Leave the cap on but have it lose, hold rpms at 2,000 rpm and watch the temp gauge rise up and down ... when you see it drop slowly return rpms to idle, remove cap and add more fluid. Usually all the air is gone from my jeep on the 2nd or 3rd cycle of the temp gauge falling
Brother fine video I just learned something new about bleeding the cooling system from my mistake. Winter time I had to let it bleed longer than in the summer time but an important lesson learned videos like yours save us money and teach us thank you for sharing
Mixing OAT with HOAT coolant will gel and cause extensive clogging of your system. Always use the correct type for your Jeep model.
Hoat is 2011 and under
Oat is for the newer stuff
Not from my experience. I accidentally mixed the two types. No issues for over a year. I'm replacing the coolant with the correct type now because I don't want to deal with corrosion issues.
Yes mixing them is bad but something interesting is that oat is completely fine for a car that was designed to use hoat but not vice versa
@@nacholibre5173 Good to know. maybe that's why I haven't noticed any issues with corrosion. I recently replaced the thermostat and the aluminum where it attaches to was just fine and shiny.
8:21 Same thing happened with me, it's actually the heater core opening up a pushing the trapped air out. It took over 20 minutes for the heater core to finally open up, because it was really cold where I am. As soon as all that air boiled out, the heat finally kicked right on.
You done a mighty fine job if you ask me
Thank you
Good info in your video! My daughters 2013 JKU Wrangler has weak heat from center and driver side vents again (bought it used 3/2023 from a dealer) this was an issue two days after we bought it, so the dealer flushed and burped the cooling system and it seemed fine until the other day.. weak heat again and water fall sound coming from dash.. so I went to burp the system today, used the same process you did (minus the rev’s) it was burping well.. and then, I too got the volcano at about the 20min mark..it went from fine to holy crap and a matter of seconds so I shut it down.. I’ve never had this happen and like you been wrenching for 30-some years.. I glad it is something that happens and not something that just happened to me.. 😂 so the struggle continues.. new subscriber here too. 👍🏻
Did this fix your problem? I have a 2015 wrangler i just bought on halloween and found my heater is weak on the driver and the center. Hopefully this can be a cheap fix rather than a big heater core job
You need to reverse flush the heater core. My ‘16 I did but there was nothing, didn’t really need it. My ‘13 needs to be done every couple months. I finally washed it out with CLR and flushed it again. Seems good, so far. Find a vid, it’s super easy and it works.
Car ramps work well with these funnels
That is a good point. Sometimes lifting the front up can help get the trapped air out.
i bought the vacuum type sold on amazon i think it was around $90 some dollars .you are suppose to use shop air pressure to cause your vacuum . i removed the air fitting and installed a 1/8x 1/4 Schrader fitting and will use my a/c repair vacuum pump inline with a empty freon jug that i installed another Schrader so i could pull thru the empty tank and not pull into the vacuum pump.had a 1988 cherokee that would give me fits with trapped air. had to park backwards on a hill and remove temp sensor and bleed the air from that point.
The fight is real! Some vehicles have cooling systems that are a real pain to bleed out, others can be very easy. I have the UView Airlift system that you talked about and while it does work quite nicely, I will say that it works best when you start with a completely empty cooling system. The emptier, the better. Like, drain the block empty. If you don't have the system empty enough, the tool will start sucking coolant out when it's trying to vacuum air out of the system and won't pull a strong vacuum.
It's also handy for leak testing the system before you fill. You pull a vacuum, close off the valve and check back in 20 minutes. If it didn't hold the same vacuum level, you have a leak. It won't tell you where the leak is, just that there is a leak.
To find the leak (with a completely empty system) pressurize the system to the rated capacity on the cap and spray suspect areas with soapy water. There are pneumatic cooling system pressure testers for this.
Great info. I love my coolant pressure tester. It has saved so much time over the years finding leaks. I have an old BG coolant flush machine out back that I used when I had my Commercial repair shop. It works just like a vacuum fill set up. The tank got cracked so I just use the old funnel.
Do you recommend squeezing the radiator hoses I’ve seen other people do it but not sure if it’s effective
I have done that before but not real sure if it works much.
Very helpful!especially the squeezing the hose out of the radiator
My 07 wk still runs amazing tiptop shape 235k stock everything 3.7 4wd
I got a 08 with 248k everyday Drive occasionally severe off-road. No problem
@@ramindadseresht4074 nice 👍🏽 how often have u changed the transmission fluids and the brake lines fluid?
@@lstruggy manual transmission amzoil synchromesh 90k miles, T case amzoil 60k miles, front and rear differential mobil-1 70k miles. Brake line I still have to do it
@@ramindadseresht4074📝 nice nice 👍🏽🔧🛢️
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us newbies!
Much appreciated!
Thanks for watching and the comments
Thanks for the video and your honesty. I hate doing coolant flushes because it’s messy no matter how you do it, but, like you said, it has to be done. New subscriber!
Thank you
Thank you mine overheated the same I thought I did something wrong. Watched you. Did the same must hade a air pocket but it run fine now. 😊thanks.
So we just run till volcano, shut down, fill and do it again until the volcano stops? I’ve also tried the vacuum and it doesn’t pull all the coolant in.
I try not to let it volcano but it happens sometimes. I would fill it and let it get hot and heat is coming from the vents. Shut it off and top it off over and over. They are bad about clogging the heater core and this slows the flow of coolant and makes it difficult to get the air out. You may need to flush the coolant system and back flush the heater core.
I have flushed the radiator and back flushed the heater core, but it just doesn’t run as cool as it used to. I’ve replaced the cap to the new OEM 17 lb cap as well. I have the funnel for the radiator and have tried to let air out. It will for about 3 cycles, then it’s a volcano so I shut it off.
Also, it will fill the overflow tank, but it won’t pull back, so I’m thinking it’s because I have air in the system or a hole in the hose, but I think it’s air.
Ok I followed your suggestions and looks like I’m back in business. Looks like I got all the air out with no volcano. The system is running well. 222-226 fan comes on and cools to 215 with no volcano. Thanks man.
Cool! Thanks for watching and the feedback. Never hurts to let it cool off for a few hours after driving it real good and triple checking the level at the radiator cap.@@SniperFire45
@@HotRodDave well, I believe I may have bigger issues. It worked fine for a few days, and now it’s getting hot again. I think I have a blown head gasket.
You can squeeze and let go upper radiation hose multiple times to burp system of air. Combination with your way should work great
7:44 he mentioned I believe
Thank you for a detailed video. Isn't there a "bleeder valve" in the system to release the air? Have you used that before? If so, there must be a concern with it since you didn't mention it.
I only ask because we used the heat in my Wife's 2012 JK this evening and it was only blowing hot when we were accelerating but the air cooled off significantly when we took the foot off of the pedal. So tomorrow I will be trying to address this issue.
Thanks again!!
Yes but it is hard to get too it so I don't mess with it. It is also not at the top of the coolant system so I don't think it will work very well. I talk about it in the water pump and thermostat video on this Jeep
Yes, bleeder valve is attached and is a part of your thermostat housing. It’s on top, you can’t miss it.
Yup and you can pop off the air intake hose for easier access to the bleeder
Thanks for the video. I just did thermostat and upper rad hose. Could get it to bleed. U reminded me to turn the heater, thanks. Duh to me. I sat my jeep at a slight incline with the front higher. I don't know if that helped but it certainly didn't hurt. Thanks again!!!
@@richoverturf114 Thanks
Just bought a lovely jk unlimited. Radiator leaked . Replaced it burped the system. After driving a while heat gage rises above normal centre mark and back again to the centre mark. Fan runs high speed increases noise while driving when u decelerate it slows down like non stop. Clean Radiator core heater. Still doing the same .. car was running ok . I need assistance. I just Replaced Radiator. Please guys any info to sort will be Appreciated
You have not gotten all the air out of the system. You introduced a lot of air with the radiator replacement. You probably need several heat cycles to purge the system. I have found it draws in the most coolant after it has cooled down to ambient temperature. Generally not one burp and done. Been there done that.
@@joepandolfino4281 I have burped it several times.after that I opted to replace thermostat. Sender unit temp one. Waterpump.bled burped the system again. Drove it about 30 miles gauge fluctuating mid point to overheating . Fan blowing full speed. Checked circulation when fan on. Not blowing hot air like another one I had to compare it with. One side is hot on radiator other side cold air like its got a airgap or not burped properly. Did gas into coolant test to see if headgaskets not blown twice results was good no change in colour for the chemical. Swoped radiator fans from the one mentioned above. Still same . Fan working 100 % on the other jeep. Tried everything..removed thermostat drove it around 70 miles felt like it was getting until I was almost home gauge stood just above midpoint fans full speed again. I cannot understand why it would do the same symptoms with thermostat taken out of the housing. What should I do. My experience owning a jeep jk I have save so long for is becoming a nightmare gentleman. Please help. I m considering getting a mishimoto thermostat. But I don't understand it did the same without a thermostat in the housing.
s
Continue to “burp” the system. I had the best luck running it then let it cool to ambient or over night. Repeat, repeat and repeat. It may take days but it is the trapped air. BTW, if you can park the JK with front end elevated on ramps or otherwise, that will help. Perseverance
Great advice, where do you get a funnel with the stopper at
Do a Google search for radiator funnel. Amazon has them for 19.99
I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 3.6 liter. I’m having heater issues. The heater blows hot then cold. I checked the heater core lines they seem to be just warm after a long drive they should have been hot so I’m not sure what to check next. I did look at a video on replacing the Blender door Actuator but I’m not sure that’s it. I have noticed it’s running hotter according to my temperature gauge that normally runs in the middle but now the needle runs at about 3/4. Any suggestions? Thank you
The heater core is probably clogging up. I would do a coolant flush on the whole system and then take the heater hose lines loose and flush the heater core both directions. Make sure the water pump and thermostat are good. I have a few videos on the JK cooling system repairs. The heater cores are bad about clogging up and causing air pockets.
Good job explaining things! Thanks. Have you done a Jk flush and fill video yet?
I think I did a flush as part of another JK video but I can't remember. I have a lot of Jeep videos. Most are under Jeeps in the playlist but some are under Auto Repair. I know I did a flush on my brothers 2013 JK and forward and reverse flushed the heater core directly at the heater hoses.
Cool video, thanks. How do you know if you have air in the lines. I tried flushing the core a few years back as my heat is room temp. Not a daily driver so I forget about it till winter. Both heater lines are hot. I may try this and see.
What state are you in?
Sometimes it will overheat and push out coolant. Sometimes it will not have good heat or no heat at all. I'm in north Georgia
Mine had white smoke coming out of coolant from filler while filling up with new coolant after replacing thermostat any guess if that could be my water pump?
@@paperroute4031 steam?
Just bought a 2013 jeep wrangler, Sahara unlimited and it has coolant running back into the cab soaking ALL floors but doesn’t overheat? I’ve never owned a jeep so any help is appreciated thank you 0:59
@@staceymiller4765 sounds like the heater core is leaking
My thoughts exactly but hopefully it’s a cracked hose. lol. Fixing to find out in the am
My 2017 has a sloshing sound in the dash frequently and has recently started going to the third line on temp gauge before it drops to middle again all while fans are racing... thinking I may need to replace thermostat and burp/bleed the system.... This is my first "fiat" jeep
I would definitely flush and bleed the system after checking for leaks really good. The heater cores are bad about clogging half up
If you have some milage on it it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a thermostat and water pump on it. Look at the Doorman replacement parts. They have aluminum housing to replace the plastic parts for the 3.6.
Changed out my timing chain and gears now my cooling fan runs on high constantly but is not heating up. Heater blows hot and cold air intermittently.
Sounds like an air pocket. I would check the fan connector and temp sensors. I would definitely try burping the air out first.
@@HotRodDaveThank you, I will try that and let you know.
2013 and up OAT is used
2012 and below HOAT is used
I put my jeep on ramps while burping it to raise the radiator cap higher. Works great with the funle system.
@jeffmeyers9866 that is a good idea
The zip tie on your radiator hose...what does it do
It holds the protective sleeve on. That's how it came from the factory
When I change my oil I also remove the fluids from the radiator, use a small diameter hose and feed it down to the bottom of the radiator, and brake reservoir. Then fill with fresh fluids. Just don't accidentally mix OAT with HOAT. Made that mistake after replacing the valve rockers...oopsie
My 14 JK on full hot temp blows hot on the passenger side vent and luke warm on the driver side vent.
That's what my brothers was doing. Flushing the heater core both directions helped A lot
...how'd you make that funnel...? would like to make one too...
@@baxtermason6909 you can buy them on Amazon or auto parts store. I didn't make it
well silly me where did you get that gadget with funnel cap? they actually sell this? or is it home made?😲 I don't think I can make something like that.
you can get them at amazon or any tool or automotive store
Just flushed my coolant and it’s now blowing cold air. Please help.
@seanplourde2575 you have air in it. Follow my steps in the video and let me know if you get the heat back.
How do I keep the air out? My jeep same one keeps getting air in it. I have to bleed it way too much.
If the radiator or the heater core has build up in them it can cause it to not bleed properly and do that. Try flushing the system and flush the heater core separately in both directions thoroughly. Then re bleed the system
This was very helpful thank you 🙏🏿
COOL! Thanks
Does this replace the process of bleeding air at the thermostat housing?
This is how I do it. The bleeder at the thermostat is too hard to get to on a Wrangler
Hello, I got a 2021 Jeep GC, I recently changed the radiator and I’m not sure I bleed the system correctly or at all. Should I do what’s in this video? Pls help me out boss
I have not done a 21 Grand Cherokee but I would think you would need to. Do you have heat?
Worked perfectly on my w
2012. Thank you!
Awesome job. Glad it helped you
Good afternoon my jeep family I have a 2020 Jeep Wrangler JL 2.0 L I have a quick question. Can somebody help me out with when I first turn my Jeep on and drive for about 30 minutes in bumper-to-bumper traffic my radiator or fan kicks on so loud That is embarrassing even at a red light that’s how loud it is not to mention at that moment, it starts to overheat and gauge goals basically over 200. I took it to jeep and they tell me there’s nothing wrong with it because they can’t diagnose anything and Jeep has no codes on the diagnostic but if I keep driving it like this, it’s gonna keep happening and get worse. What can I do?
If you listen to the end of the video, you hear how to fan calms down and then it stops overheating  3:52
I don't have any first hand experience with the 2.0l engine but most modern engines run between 200-230 f the 3.6 Pentastars
like to run closer to 230
the funnel setup is something you put together?
@kevinthomson9537 no you can buy them at most parts stores or Amazon
it might be easier to fill the radiator up then fill the heater hoses
What radiator cap funnel is that? Looks like it’s actually screwed on vs the funnel I’m just pushing in place that keeps coming loose as I’m trying to do this on my own. New to us 17 JKUR and has green in the radiator/motor and pink in the reservoir so plan to drain, flush and fill so looking at burping it now.
It pushes onto the radiator cap adapter. Flush it real good if it has 2 colors. Real good
@@HotRodDave is it the Lisle spill free funnel? And if so which fits the JK?
@@andrewdecavia7553 I don't remember the brand. I bought it on a tool truck a hundred years ago. It probably is a Lisle. They make good stuff. They have a few cap sizes that come with the kit. You just have to figure out the size you need for your application.
Did you have to tilt the jeep with a jack?
I did not but i have heard of people trying that.
What's a normal or average temperature " for a Jeep JK 2016 to be running
This 2013 runs about 205-230 the fans kick on about 220-225.
What funnel is that Dani get that on Amazon or autozone
@@zekemendez8747 they have them on Amazon
I thought the recovery system was supposed to burp the system automatically?
What recovery system is that?
Coolant? What else?
@@HotRodDave
@@dnwrd34
The recovery is lower than the heater core tho .
Still trapped air
I've always heard you're supposed to do this method on an incline so all the air comes to the top of the system easier
@@captainbc52 I have done that before
Where the heck do you get that funnel/cap setup?
You can get them on Amazon
Have a 2013 wrangler. Changed rad and thermostat. Rad was bad thermostat i broke plastic breather on thermostat. It has never ever over heated. Antifreeze keeps filling up overflow bottle. Keep putting it back in rad 2 days later overflow is full. Trying to get air out with that special funnel. Any ideas ??
Is the heat working?
@@HotRodDave yes it will heat you out.
Did you replace the radiator cap?
@@HotRodDave twice 2 different kinds
The check engine light came on bought 3 weeks ago took it to AutoZone code said antifreeze issue can't remember the exact code number but it had to do with the coolant system. They asked me at AutoZone to check antifreeze level. That's the problem antifreeze goes into overflow bottle and won't go back In rad
Man I just 3.6 l 2015 and thermostat housing bleeder valve just kept leaking after closing is been issues
My jeep started overheating, replaced thermostat rad cap, pump burped the system a few times and still overheating. Had a big mess when coolant started boilling too.. have you been successful? Anything figure it out? Blown head gasket?
I would have to see it in person to be able to tell what's going on. Do you have heat coming out of the vents? Air pockets are the number one problem people have after a repair has been made. Does the heater core and radiator need flushed or replaced?
@@HotRodDaveFlush been done. I figured out a way to get bubbles out of the system, ride quite rouch, left and right, the coolant will go all over the place in there, problem solved! I'm in Canada a little to far my friend.. great video
@@HotRodDave crap now just having heat on passenger side and weak, started overheating again god damned
Just found you, very informative, just subscribed 2016 Rubicon! Thanks!
Thank You!
Im a single mom and this was by far the best one.
Thank you
Is the same needed on the 2.0 liter jl motor? Mine has a bubbling sound.
I have not worked on one of those yet but air pockets can form in any cooling system
Since the jku /jk are a pain in the ass to bleed air out do I need to repeat the burping process ?
If you can't get the heater working right or it overheats for sure. It can be a pain sometimes and sometimes it goes smooth
@@HotRodDave my heat works
@@HotRodDave so from day one I got my Jeep only on interstate at a higher rpm my Jeep temp would creep up to like 230’s 240 then go back down to regular temp, so yesterday I took it to a valvoline shop and they did a rad flush and fill and now it’s get a lot warmer and it’s only when driving in town now! It don’t over heat at idle which is good
@@HotRodDave but my Jeep never ever over heated. I’ve read that this engine runs more hot then normal it’s just how that are, but I wanted to try and see if I could get it to not get in the higher temps like it was from day one and now these fucks made it worse. The thermostat and housing is new also
@@Rubicon14 they do run hotter than most other engines that I have worked on in my career. Sounds like they made you a nice air pocket.
I would just like to say thank you.And it was a great video
Thank you very much
Thank you sir
So I guess as long as your heater is blowing hot air you got it purged and all the air is bubbles is out of the radiator correct 🤔
Yes if you have good heat you probably have the air out
New 2024 JT and there is NO radiator cap. WTF Jeep.
I had the same air bubble and shot out of the same funnel.
It happens
So dident get to see your plunger , is it store bought or homemaid ? And is it nessesary ?
It came with the funnel. It helps control the overflow
OAT coolant it should be purple. North American coolant is the wrong coolant. Thank you for the video!
Truthfully it is not purple.. it is actually orange in color with an added purple dye so it doesn't get confused with the hoat Orange fluid. It makes it very difficult to know what is in your radiator looking into the rad Cap hole because it looks Orange from that angle . If you siphon some out and put it on a paper towel you'll see that's actually purple... the product that he is using is a perfect replacement for the oat coolant for 2013 and up. It is orange because the purple dye is not added to it
So I have a 2014 Jeep JKU
Had a leak in the lower rad hose so I replaced it.
But the heater has never worked as long as i’ve owned the car, never really needed to fix it given where I live it doesn’t really get cold.
When burping the system (without heater on because it doesn’t work)
The coolant began to boil into the funnel and I turned off the engine.
Should I burp it again or is the boiling normal? Also the thermostat has not been over heating it stays very close to the middle.
Thanks!
I would be figuring out why the heater doesn't work first. I would definitely do several warm up cool downs and check the fluid when it cold in the radiator. If it isn't running hot on the gauge and not pushing coolant out of the overflow/expansion tank then you are probably good. I would want to know I had heat though. Good luck to you and be careful not to get burned. Always check the coolant level when the engine is cold. Thanks for watching and the comments
they need to put a bleeding valve besides on the thermostat. good video
Thanks. It has one from the factory but you can't get to it with everything put together.
@@HotRodDave yep... i'm gonna have to do this tomorrow after replacing my thermostat.. i know theres one on the thermostat, but like you said, its about useless as tits on a boar hog... my old grand cherokee had a very convenient bleeding valve up top.... on top of that, why have a bleed valve down low on the thermostat, it needs to be high, thats where air gets caught
@@areutryingitout5678 exactly
I have a 2012 and the thermostat housing has a bleeder in it. Would that not be the simper way?
Should be
It’s kind of a pain in the ass to get to that plastic bleeder. I’ve done that and the radiator and got the volcano.
You need be at the highest point of the engine. Air bubbles float up and burp out of the radiator cap opening,
Whatever you call it the orange stuff is crap in my opinion
If you don't get rid of the air pockets the orange stuff will gel
My daughter Chevy had that junk when I started changing parts even the connector from the fill to the radiator was clogged with that orange goo only it was an orange cement.
I don't know who worked on it before but I cleaned everything out flush that garbage down the drain metaphorically and replaced it with good old green stuff which is a lot cheaper and simply works better as it doesn't cause any damage even if there's air in the system but you still need to flush the system as possible to get air out
Yeah the dexcool gm coolant had alot of problems especially if you mix it with green. I have seen it turn brown and get thick
Never cross mix coolants
Especially the hoat & oat
You need to catch the spilled coolant. Don’t just hose it down cause it goes to the storm drain which is not good for the Mother Nature.😕
@@juanbugayong2026 i do catch it when possible and store it in drums for recycling. Thanks for watching
Im fighting my 2014 town and country right now
I don't know on the town and country but the thermostat housing has a bleeder screw on the jeeps. They just are not easy to get to and look like a cheap plastic toy.
what if all im getin is HEAT----- absolutely No Cold Air at all ,, replaced the stat twice allready - burped and bled and burped again, !!
You may have a A/C problem
Dude, do you evan know what you're doing ? You were not a very good tech .wher you?
What did you not like Sir ?
@HotRodDave Everything you did was just wrong. P/S and you made a mess of things.
@@mannyjimenez1010 I could have lied and not shown what can happen but I don't like fake bs. It can be a messy job. I hope you make a video showing me what I did wrong since you are the pro. Let me ask you a question. Why did you watch the video in the first place if you are such a top notch mechanic ?
@HotRodDave it just came out on you tube,and I thought what a crappie video. I am not a pro or clame to be Mr .when I used to work as an auto technician. 👎 peace out.
@@mannyjimenez1010 Enlighten everyone and point out what is the way J
When you pulled jeep out to rinse i saw upper radiator hose completely collapsed
Yeah they will do that sometimes until you get all the air out
Geeze Bro, would you Get to the Point? Please.
@islandwoodsie4519 have patience. You may learn something