I use Grangers a lot and was a bit dubious about a 2 in 1 wash and proof product but that looks like a very effective DWR treatment. Will definitely try it on my next wash.
Thank you Paul and Harry…. Super video explaining a simple process and why it’s important to do it regularly. Why pay £500 for a good goretex jacket and not maintain its waterproofing, especially when it’s waterproofing is why you paid out your hard earned cash in the first place. That ME Switch looks good Paul, but my Wife says my the switch looks better on me😜
A few tips from my experience doing this. I watched an Arcteryx video- they recommended 40 degrees. Worked fine for their gear. I did an old Berghaus jacket at 40 and all the tapes fell off, found the label 30 for that🙀. Check the label👍, I use spray on DWR and then either tumble dry for 20 mins on med heat or a hair dryer works too.
Paul this is a super video...practical and straight to the point...your advice videos are always good actually....I learnt one great thing in the video that the graingers is an all in one solution ,didn’t know they did that ...super vid ...the post wash splash demo was good too ...cheers mate
I've tried both and prefer the wash in. It just seems to work better in my experience. There is some truth in the sense that the wash-in will coat the inside too, but in practice you don't notice a difference. Harry
That fall around 0:50 I laughed so hard I replayed it at least ten times lol. Thank you for another great video! Would it also work to use a blow dryer on it to get some warmth on it if a tumble dryer is not available? Without needing to blow-dry the whole jacket? I would feel uncomfortable to go at it with an iron.
Haha, it is an absolute cracker of a tumble. Theoretically it should work, however I've not personally given it a go. I'd probably spend a good 5 minutes over the whole jacket though, otherwise you could have patches that are more effective than others. Harry
Hi. Very informative. I noticed that you didn't clean out any detergent from machine or soap draw. I thought any trace of detergent would stop the waterproofing work. That's one of the reasons I have always been so apprehensive.
It is a good idea to clean it out before use, but Paul's washing machine was pretty clean so didn't warrant it. You can even do a 10-15 minute wash without anything in to completely remove built-up detergent if there's a lot of residue. Harry
Paul excellent video, I’m at a loss as whether to use a washin or a spray,my jacket is a Rab waterproof which says use a spray,as it breathable but on Nikwax website it say Nikwax direct inproves breathability so you can guess my question which should I use ?
You can use either to achieve the same results. A wash-in is going to be easier and guarantee full coverage, but a spray on allows you to target high-wear areas with extra treatment (shoulders and hood in particular), but you can miss some spots if you're not careful. The treatment keeps the jacket breathable by allowing the rain to bead off the surface, when your jacket wets out the breathability is reduced because the moisture vapour cannot escape as effectively. Personal preference comes into play, but in our experience we have seen slightly better results with the spray-on after the jacket has been cleaned, and a second spray over for good measure.
Why did you not put the GRANGERS in the top draw also i have the green Granger Performance wash is this the same it says maintains water repellence ? great vid.
You can do either; there's really no difference as long as you've cleaned out the drawer beforehand to get rid of any previous detergent. Performance Wash is purely for washing outdoor products, whereas Performance Wash & Repel washes and rejuvenates the durable water repellent coating.
@@trekitt Thankyou, I ended up putting some in the draw and some on the jacket , washed and let it drip and dry a bit in the shower and just now put it on a tarp in the garage and sprayed with Grangers Performance REPEL PLUS suitable for gore tex it is now air drying in the shower and later i will pop it in the Tumbler to reactivate . Hopefully this will bring it back to top performance.
Hi ! Thanks for sharing wonderful stuff ! I'm currently facing a challange trying to wash a white down jacket using liquid Collonil Textile Wash -the instructions are: pour 40ml into the cleaned fabric softner chamber,which is puzzling .. Shouldn't it be poured into the detergent chamber ? Or perhaps better straight into washer together with the jacket ? Please ,your opinion ? Many thanks !!
I use Nikwax to wash and then use a Grangers repel spray once jacket out of wash and still wet - then bung it in the dryer. This is because someone told me the 2 in 1 will also proof the inside of the jacket with dwr and reduce breathability - is this true ? Good video by the way.
Using a wash-in will reproof all of the jacket inside and out, but in practice offers no appreciable difference in breathability. But a belt and braces approach is to do the method you've described, then there's no chance of any impediment. Just make sure to spray everything, don't want any wet spots!
hello Paul! Greetings from Hong Kong! I have bought Granger Performance Wash and Performance Repel Plus (the spray-on reproofer). May I ask how to apply the reproofer after washing the jacket? Do I need to line dry or tumble dry after washing before spraying the reproofer? Thank you so much for answering!
The recommendation from Gore-Tex is to machine wash using regular mild detergent, line drying, then putting in drier to reactivate the waterproofing. Why is your method different and do they achieve the same results?
Mild detergent is pretty vague; we'd rather recommend a product(s) that we know works. The particular product we're using requires some heat to activate, so popping in the dryer straight away tends to work more effectively. Both methods essentially achieve the same results but ours is based on our personal experience.
It's a different process with down. We've made a video about how to wash a down jacket, which is the same process as a down sleeping bag: th-cam.com/video/P7YtwPt6QLk/w-d-xo.html
I don’t have a tumble drier - what’s the best way to dry in that case? Line dry then iron using a tea towel as a shield so as to not directly iron the jacket fabric?
After being recommended both the performance wash and the wash + repel for my gore-tex pro jacket which was seriously wetting out - nothing changed. Could it be because I waited a long time before putting the jacket in the tumble drier (aka it was sitting soggy in the machine for a while) ? I'm trying again following this video to the T so fingers crossed!
Waiting before tumble drying shouldn't have any detrimental effect to the reproofing. I would double check for any detergent build-up in your washing machine and possibly run a rinse cycle before trying again. You can also use a spray on reproofer instead of a wash-in which can really allow you to target areas of the jacket.
Checking the care instructions on the jacket should be step one, but the basic steps in the video can be applied to any waterproof clothing as long as that care label allows.
I'm not hugely familiar with one of those, but having had a quick Google search it would seem to do the same job. It just needs a little heat to activate the proofing agents.
The spray doesn't make your jacket waterproof, it will reintroduce the water repellent coating (DWR) to your jacket. The wash in also achieves this, it's a personal preference as to which method you choose, a combination of both also works.
Hi, thank you for this video. Very helpful. I have a question and I'm hoping you can answer. I need to do this wash and dry with 3 or 4 garments, but some say 30°c wash, others say 40°. Does that mean it would be best to wash them in separate washes or would it be suitable to choose a medium temperature? E.g. 30°c? Thank you.
Yup, pull it out of the washing machine, pop a tea towel over the area you're about to iron and slowly move over the jacket on a low heat. Do this until the jacket is almost dry and then leave to air until fully dry. Harry
Hi, one question. What is the best way to wash a soft shell jacket, like Atom LT? I suppose this Granger product is not suitable because it will affect breathability? Thanks.
Same method. The product in this video reapplies the DWR (durable water repellent) coating to the outer; this coating is present on both an Atom LT (or similar) and a hardshell.
Would you also recommend this product for an annual (or more frequent) wash of hiking trousers, such as my Arc'teryx Gamma LTs or is this more aimed at waterproof jackets and other garments that have a dedicated waterproof membrane?
I've just bought some of this wash. 2 things....the bottle says tumble or air dry. I thought it needs heat. Second....the care label on my Revolution Race jacket says do not tumble dry....so do I, don't I???
I have a bib n brace for fishing will the blue cap bottle be ok to waterproof this item also any idea what the orange cap one is different to the blue one thanks great videos
Grangers won't necessarily waterproof your product but it will reinstate the water resistant coating on the outside, helping with breathability. The blue cap is for washing & reinstating water repellency, the orange cap is purely for water repellency and not washing.
Hi Paul, what about garments that can't, according to the care label, be tumble dried? Is Grangers suitable in that case, since heat is required, or is Nikwax a better solution (!) as air drying is now the Nikwax norm?
I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to list the products that aren't suitable for tumble drying, however, there are other methods such as using a hairdryer that are a little gentler but still introduce heat. Nikwax is also a good option if you're adverse to using a tumble drier. Harry
Paul, what do you consider to be the best Hardshell bombproof rain jacket for daily rain exposure whilst dog walking and biking/hiking in Michigan soggy sand dunes? Considering Changabang, Beta LT, and Rab Ladakh. Would also consider Alpine kinetic 2.0 jacket for stretch, but I'm skeptical that it keeps rain out as well as the other 3. Which one is most likely to last 5-10 years?
I'm afraid I can't be location-specific as I'm not aware of the intricacies of Michigan dunes, but I can make some suggestions. The Changabang will probably be too much; it's a proper fortress of a jacket that only really needs to be considered in some of the worst weather imaginable. The Beta LT is a great all-rounder, as is the Beta AR. I have an AR and it's all I've ever needed from a hardshell, even in the wettest part of the UK. The Ladakh is similarly brilliant but doesn't fit me quite as well, however, it may fit you perfectly. Another good suggestion is the Haglofs Roc GTX. Really, it comes down to fit and personal preference. There isn't necessarily a best. Harry
my berghaus goretex jacket label says tumble dryer or leave it hanging to dry. cant find one answer anywhere some say you must use dryer to activate that water repellent some say dont need. im confused :(
Hi Paul / Harry can you hand wash the hardshell jacket in a bath with nikwax? I just bought from you the arcteryx AR and am a bit apprehensive putting it in the washing machine or tumble dryer. One of them have already took a small chunk out of a patagonia triolet
Yup, hand washing with Tech Wash is absolutely fine. You could then use a spray-on product (such as TX Direct Spray or Performance Repel Spray) instead of washing it in. Harry
I used this very same product which I bought from Trekitt on my Marmot shell jacket (only 2 years old with light use) I followed the instructions carefully and put it in the washing machine then the drier. After the whole process had been done the jacket still wetted out so I then tried it again, and again I now have an empty bottle of Grangers 2 in 1 and a jacket that wets out quickly, useless. I contacted Grangers about this to see if they could advise me in any way I heard absolutely nothing back from them poor customer service. So now it looks like a new jacket is the answer, trekitt any help?
Same thing happened for me. I bought the spray on, as a last ditch effort. Didn’t work either. But then I found the solution. Sprayed it on a second time. Crumpled up a plastic bag so it formed a ball in my hand with a flat outer layer and used it to distribute the dwr and rub it in real good. This was very effective as the plastic didn’t soak up the dwr. Then I dried the jacket with a hair dryer, being careful not to melt the outer layer. The result was perfect beading. The instructions on Grangers website is very vague and doesn’t work in my experience. Give it a try if you still have the jacket 😊
Hi Paul, does this apply to all varieties of hard shell membranes? I have a jacket with Pertex Shield Air and the care instructions for reactivating the DWR are rather vague. Is there any potential for Grangers to cause harm to non-Gortex products?
Grangers restores the DWR (the water repellent coating on the outer of the jacket), not the membrane itself. Therefore, it'll work for almost any hardshell and the process is the same. Harry
You didn't mention this probably because you used the Graingers product but with Nikwax there is no need to reactivate in a tumble dryer. That at least is what Nikwax themselves say. So is this something of a G promotion?
Hi Iain, I was dubious about Nixwax's move away from their former advice to tumble dry. This change was mirrored by Paramo on their care labels so I started line drying my paramo stuff and it seems absolutely fine - no discernable difference in performance. The shop I work in sells Grangers but quite a lot of our ( own brand ) stuff can't be tumble dried. Since the Grangers really requires heat to "acitvate" it that leaves hanging the item over a radiator or putting it in an airing cupboard, if you still have one, as alternatives. A dilemma for me as I don't like trotting out a pat answer to customers that air drying is fine when i don't think it is with the Grangers products. Not keen on ironing waterproof fabrics, but it can be done, with care. I don't own any membrane garments anymore and only use Paramo stuff which I don't like the Grangers stuff for - doesn't seem to work well on the pump liner - so I stick with Nikwax as the fabrics and proofer products were developed together.
Old white hair. Hi. I worked in outdoor retail for years. The last five at Kong in Keswick until I retired. I too wear Paramo but also use membrane waterproofs. Regards Nikwax it doesn't require tumble drying and not owning a tumble dryer makes sense for me. Whenever I needed to advise customers on how to take care of their hardshells I always recommended Nikwax. It never ceased to amaze me the number of folk that didn't realize the need to regularly wash their kit.
Hi Iain, something I always advise customers is that - although using a water-softener tablet or soda crystals (which are a handy extra boost to the cleaning process) is fine when washing an item, it seems from my experience to inhibit the take-up (by the fabric) of the proofer. This also seems, from my experience, to be more so with Grangers' proofer than Nikwax, though I don't use any water softening agent when proofing with Nikwax products, either, only for the wash cycle(s). After all, you've already cleaned the product, and proofing is an entirely different effect, in that you want the product to remain in the fabric, and not to be affected, or possibly removed, by any washing effect the water-softening agent may impart to the process. This further highlights the contradictory nature of any two-in-one product, which IMO can't really ever be totally effective, so are best used (if at all) on brand new items, which haven't had time to get mucky with dirt or sweat. Best use of a 2-in-1 product is to impart a modicum of proofing on a new item to put off the inevitable day it REALLY needs a proper clean/proof. Then, and thereafter, it will need to be treated with separate wash and proofer. Readers will gather, from my comments above, that IMO the use of a water-softening agent will render the proofing agent in a 2-in-1 product, already marginal, completely ineffective. Best to stick with separates, IMO. I personally believe that Grangers only market a 2-in-1 because their main market rival - Nikwax - don't, and never have.
If you’re using a cycle that rinses twice, it probably won’t work. Need to be a synthetic or delicates cycle with only one rinse, then straight in the dryer. I’ve only found this product to be very good.
I use Grangers a lot and was a bit dubious about a 2 in 1 wash and proof product but that looks like a very effective DWR treatment. Will definitely try it on my next wash.
Thank you Paul and Harry…. Super video explaining a simple process and why it’s important to do it regularly. Why pay £500 for a good goretex jacket and not maintain its waterproofing, especially when it’s waterproofing is why you paid out your hard earned cash in the first place. That ME Switch looks good Paul, but my Wife says my the switch looks better on me😜
A few tips from my experience doing this. I watched an Arcteryx video- they recommended 40 degrees. Worked fine for their gear. I did an old Berghaus jacket at 40 and all the tapes fell off, found the label 30 for that🙀. Check the label👍, I use spray on DWR and then either tumble dry for 20 mins on med heat or a hair dryer works too.
A grand video. Much more useful than the manufacturer created ones!
agreed
Paul this is a super video...practical and straight to the point...your advice videos are always good actually....I learnt one great thing in the video that the graingers is an all in one solution ,didn’t know they did that ...super vid ...the post wash splash demo was good too ...cheers mate
Nice video as always!!! Your dogs are adorable 😍😍
Much overlooked area of looking after our kit - great subject for a video.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, and well explained. Thank you.
Do you think there are any benefits/disadvantages in using a spray-on DWR reproofer vs a wash-in one?
I've heard a wash in may reduce breathability, whereas a spray on only coats the outer therefore not effecting/blocking the inner liner.
I've tried both and prefer the wash in. It just seems to work better in my experience. There is some truth in the sense that the wash-in will coat the inside too, but in practice you don't notice a difference. Harry
That fall around 0:50 I laughed so hard I replayed it at least ten times lol. Thank you for another great video! Would it also work to use a blow dryer on it to get some warmth on it if a tumble dryer is not available? Without needing to blow-dry the whole jacket? I would feel uncomfortable to go at it with an iron.
Haha, it is an absolute cracker of a tumble. Theoretically it should work, however I've not personally given it a go. I'd probably spend a good 5 minutes over the whole jacket though, otherwise you could have patches that are more effective than others. Harry
Hi. Very informative. I noticed that you didn't clean out any detergent from machine or soap draw. I thought any trace of detergent would stop the waterproofing work. That's one of the reasons I have always been so apprehensive.
It is a good idea to clean it out before use, but Paul's washing machine was pretty clean so didn't warrant it. You can even do a 10-15 minute wash without anything in to completely remove built-up detergent if there's a lot of residue. Harry
@@trekitt thank you
Paul excellent video, I’m at a loss as whether to use a washin or a spray,my jacket is a Rab waterproof which says use a spray,as it breathable but on Nikwax website it say Nikwax direct inproves breathability so you can guess my question which should I use ?
You can use either to achieve the same results. A wash-in is going to be easier and guarantee full coverage, but a spray on allows you to target high-wear areas with extra treatment (shoulders and hood in particular), but you can miss some spots if you're not careful. The treatment keeps the jacket breathable by allowing the rain to bead off the surface, when your jacket wets out the breathability is reduced because the moisture vapour cannot escape as effectively.
Personal preference comes into play, but in our experience we have seen slightly better results with the spray-on after the jacket has been cleaned, and a second spray over for good measure.
Why did you not put the GRANGERS in the top draw also i have the green Granger Performance wash is this the same it says maintains water repellence ? great vid.
You can do either; there's really no difference as long as you've cleaned out the drawer beforehand to get rid of any previous detergent. Performance Wash is purely for washing outdoor products, whereas Performance Wash & Repel washes and rejuvenates the durable water repellent coating.
@@trekitt Thankyou, I ended up putting some in the draw and some on the jacket , washed and let it drip and dry a bit in the shower and just now put it on a tarp in the garage and sprayed with Grangers Performance REPEL PLUS suitable for gore tex it is now air drying in the shower and later i will pop it in the Tumbler to reactivate . Hopefully this will bring it back to top performance.
@@atommachinedid it work? 😁
@@BearGryllsSpoofs Not Very Well .
Hi !
Thanks for sharing wonderful stuff !
I'm currently facing a challange trying to wash a white down jacket using liquid Collonil Textile Wash -the instructions are: pour 40ml into the cleaned fabric softner chamber,which is puzzling ..
Shouldn't it be poured into the detergent chamber ? Or perhaps better straight into washer together with the jacket ?
Please ,your opinion ?
Many thanks !!
I've not used that specific product, but I would typically pour my chosen detergent into the drum itself.
I use Nikwax to wash and then use a Grangers repel spray once jacket out of wash and still wet - then bung it in the dryer. This is because someone told me the 2 in 1 will also proof the inside of the jacket with dwr and reduce breathability - is this true ? Good video by the way.
Using a wash-in will reproof all of the jacket inside and out, but in practice offers no appreciable difference in breathability. But a belt and braces approach is to do the method you've described, then there's no chance of any impediment. Just make sure to spray everything, don't want any wet spots!
hello Paul! Greetings from Hong Kong! I have bought Granger Performance Wash and Performance Repel Plus (the spray-on reproofer). May I ask how to apply the reproofer after washing the jacket? Do I need to line dry or tumble dry after washing before spraying the reproofer? Thank you so much for answering!
Hi, it should give you instructions on the back of the bottle. Usually something along the lines of wash, spray onto wet garment and wipe off excess.
@@trekitt Thanks Paul🙌🏻🙌🏻Happy New Year!
The recommendation from Gore-Tex is to machine wash using regular mild detergent, line drying, then putting in drier to reactivate the waterproofing. Why is your method different and do they achieve the same results?
Mild detergent is pretty vague; we'd rather recommend a product(s) that we know works. The particular product we're using requires some heat to activate, so popping in the dryer straight away tends to work more effectively. Both methods essentially achieve the same results but ours is based on our personal experience.
Hi Paul, how can I reactivate the DWR if I don't have a drier? Iron it? How to iron it?
What about the non-Gore-tex DWR soft-shell? The same process?
Hairdryer is the easiest method. Same process for non-waterproof items as well-the product just needs some heat in whatever method you can.
@@trekitt Thank you so much for you prompt reply, Paul.
Thanks for the great Video😁 can I also do the same with my thermarest down mummy sleeping bag?
It's a different process with down. We've made a video about how to wash a down jacket, which is the same process as a down sleeping bag: th-cam.com/video/P7YtwPt6QLk/w-d-xo.html
30 years of wearing my berghaus simplex jacket. Never washed once hehe. Just bought a nice Montane jacket and guess it's time to treat it better.
The newer stuff definitely benefits from regular washing more than the older kit. The old stuff just went on forever!
I don’t have a tumble drier - what’s the best way to dry in that case? Line dry then iron using a tea towel as a shield so as to not directly iron the jacket fabric?
Ironing with a tea towel on a low heat will work just as well. Nice and slow. Harry
No dryer to lock in the product so will a hairdryer work?
Yup, that'll be fine.
After being recommended both the performance wash and the wash + repel for my gore-tex pro jacket which was seriously wetting out - nothing changed. Could it be because I waited a long time before putting the jacket in the tumble drier (aka it was sitting soggy in the machine for a while) ? I'm trying again following this video to the T so fingers crossed!
Waiting before tumble drying shouldn't have any detrimental effect to the reproofing. I would double check for any detergent build-up in your washing machine and possibly run a rinse cycle before trying again. You can also use a spray on reproofer instead of a wash-in which can really allow you to target areas of the jacket.
Does that work on thinner jackets (like the thin pack-a-mac type)?
Checking the care instructions on the jacket should be step one, but the basic steps in the video can be applied to any waterproof clothing as long as that care label allows.
Hi I don't have a tumble dryer, would I be able to put it in a dri buddy?
I'm not hugely familiar with one of those, but having had a quick Google search it would seem to do the same job. It just needs a little heat to activate the proofing agents.
Hi ive also got the spray after i washec my jacket to make it waterproof so is the washing stuff efficient just to use thanks in advance xxxxx
The spray doesn't make your jacket waterproof, it will reintroduce the water repellent coating (DWR) to your jacket. The wash in also achieves this, it's a personal preference as to which method you choose, a combination of both also works.
Hi, thank you for this video. Very helpful. I have a question and I'm hoping you can answer. I need to do this wash and dry with 3 or 4 garments, but some say 30°c wash, others say 40°. Does that mean it would be best to wash them in separate washes or would it be suitable to choose a medium temperature? E.g. 30°c?
Thank you.
30° will most likely be fine. Just pre-treat any stains beforehand with the same Grangers product and you should get good results. Harry
@@trekitt Thanks a lot for the quick reply and your advice. 👍
Thanks for the info. Is the product and process applicable for atom LT hoody, gamma LT pants and Rab vr summit ?
Yup, it'll work for all of those products as well.
not got a tumble dryer. So when ironing you just do this once over when its damp out of the washing machine?
Yup, pull it out of the washing machine, pop a tea towel over the area you're about to iron and slowly move over the jacket on a low heat. Do this until the jacket is almost dry and then leave to air until fully dry. Harry
@@trekitt Thanks ordered some and washed and ironed. water now beeds off nicely
Hi, one question. What is the best way to wash a soft shell jacket, like Atom LT? I suppose this Granger product is not suitable because it will affect breathability?
Thanks.
Same method. The product in this video reapplies the DWR (durable water repellent) coating to the outer; this coating is present on both an Atom LT (or similar) and a hardshell.
Would you also recommend this product for an annual (or more frequent) wash of hiking trousers, such as my Arc'teryx Gamma LTs or is this more aimed at waterproof jackets and other garments that have a dedicated waterproof membrane?
Yes absolutely, it works well for softshell as well. Harry
i noticed some viewers were asking about hair driers to assist, did that bring back good memories ?
😮 burnnn
I've just bought some of this wash. 2 things....the bottle says tumble or air dry. I thought it needs heat. Second....the care label on my Revolution Race jacket says do not tumble dry....so do I, don't I???
Grangers recommend heat for best results. If you can't tumble dry, warm it up with a hairdryer after washing. Not too close or hot. Harry
Would you do an extra spin after the wash
No, probably isn't necessary
I have a bib n brace for fishing will the blue cap bottle be ok to waterproof this item also any idea what the orange cap one is different to the blue one thanks great videos
Grangers won't necessarily waterproof your product but it will reinstate the water resistant coating on the outside, helping with breathability. The blue cap is for washing & reinstating water repellency, the orange cap is purely for water repellency and not washing.
Hi Paul, what about garments that can't, according to the care label, be tumble dried? Is Grangers suitable in that case, since heat is required, or is Nikwax a better solution (!) as air drying is now the Nikwax norm?
I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to list the products that aren't suitable for tumble drying, however, there are other methods such as using a hairdryer that are a little gentler but still introduce heat. Nikwax is also a good option if you're adverse to using a tumble drier. Harry
Paul, what do you consider to be the best Hardshell bombproof rain jacket for daily rain exposure whilst dog walking and biking/hiking in Michigan soggy sand dunes? Considering Changabang, Beta LT, and Rab Ladakh. Would also consider Alpine kinetic 2.0 jacket for stretch, but I'm skeptical that it keeps rain out as well as the other 3. Which one is most likely to last 5-10 years?
I'm afraid I can't be location-specific as I'm not aware of the intricacies of Michigan dunes, but I can make some suggestions. The Changabang will probably be too much; it's a proper fortress of a jacket that only really needs to be considered in some of the worst weather imaginable. The Beta LT is a great all-rounder, as is the Beta AR. I have an AR and it's all I've ever needed from a hardshell, even in the wettest part of the UK. The Ladakh is similarly brilliant but doesn't fit me quite as well, however, it may fit you perfectly. Another good suggestion is the Haglofs Roc GTX. Really, it comes down to fit and personal preference. There isn't necessarily a best. Harry
If you dont have a drier, can you air dry it?
It's best to introduce some heat with Grangers. Hairdryer is absolutely fine, then air dry afterwards.
Nice vid. I might opt for the Granger's option as a 2 in 1 then as I use nikwax on my shoes. (Those dogs are beauts) 👍
Do you really need to reproof it everywash? Paramo reckons their dwr will last upto 30 washes and each wash will sort of reset the dwr.
No, definitely doesn't need reproofing every wash. Only when it's not beading.
Will it work on a arcteryx jacket because of I have a arcteryx beta lt jacket
Yup, works on virtually all waterproof jackets/trousers.
my berghaus goretex jacket label says tumble dryer or leave it hanging to dry. cant find one answer anywhere some say you must use dryer to activate that water repellent some say dont need. im confused :(
Depends on the product. Grangers recommend you do tumble dry, so I would. Harry
@@trekitt understood. thank you Harry :)
Hi Paul / Harry can you hand wash the hardshell jacket in a bath with nikwax? I just bought from you the arcteryx AR and am a bit apprehensive putting it in the washing machine or tumble dryer. One of them have already took a small chunk out of a patagonia triolet
Yup, hand washing with Tech Wash is absolutely fine. You could then use a spray-on product (such as TX Direct Spray or Performance Repel Spray) instead of washing it in. Harry
Thankyou, is ot OK to let it dry naturally after spraying it?
@@carillion09 Grangers works best with some heat but Nikwax doesn't require it, so can just be left to dry naturally.
I used this very same product which I bought from Trekitt on my Marmot shell jacket (only 2 years old with light use) I followed the instructions carefully and put it in the washing machine then the drier.
After the whole process had been done the jacket still wetted out so I then tried it again, and again I now have an empty bottle of Grangers 2 in 1 and a jacket that wets out quickly, useless.
I contacted Grangers about this to see if they could advise me in any way I heard absolutely nothing back from them poor customer service.
So now it looks like a new jacket is the answer, trekitt any help?
Hi, would you mind giving us a call? We'll then be able to go through it with you in more detail and hopefully ask some questions too. 01432 263335.
Same thing happened for me. I bought the spray on, as a last ditch effort. Didn’t work either. But then I found the solution. Sprayed it on a second time. Crumpled up a plastic bag so it formed a ball in my hand with a flat outer layer and used it to distribute the dwr and rub it in real good. This was very effective as the plastic didn’t soak up the dwr. Then I dried the jacket with a hair dryer, being careful not to melt the outer layer. The result was perfect beading. The instructions on Grangers website is very vague and doesn’t work in my experience. Give it a try if you still have the jacket 😊
@@twisterwiper I will give it a try next time, I've always wondered about using the brush it on method. Thanks
Great job 👍
Hi Paul, does this apply to all varieties of hard shell membranes? I have a jacket with Pertex Shield Air and the care instructions for reactivating the DWR are rather vague. Is there any potential for Grangers to cause harm to non-Gortex products?
Grangers restores the DWR (the water repellent coating on the outer of the jacket), not the membrane itself. Therefore, it'll work for almost any hardshell and the process is the same. Harry
Frontier jacket now it’s hot?
A video about washing down would be helpful too.
Been there done that! th-cam.com/video/P7YtwPt6QLk/w-d-xo.html
You didn't mention this probably because you used the Graingers product but with Nikwax there is no need to reactivate in a tumble dryer. That at least is what Nikwax themselves say. So is this something of a G promotion?
The last washing video we made featured Nikwax, so we thought it fair to use Grangers this time.
Hi Iain, I was dubious about Nixwax's move away from their former advice to tumble dry. This change was mirrored by Paramo on their care labels so I started line drying my paramo stuff and it seems absolutely fine - no discernable difference in performance. The shop I work in sells Grangers but quite a lot of our ( own brand ) stuff can't be tumble dried. Since the Grangers really requires heat to "acitvate" it that leaves hanging the item over a radiator or putting it in an airing cupboard, if you still have one, as alternatives. A dilemma for me as I don't like trotting out a pat answer to customers that air drying is fine when i don't think it is with the Grangers products. Not keen on ironing waterproof fabrics, but it can be done, with care. I don't own any membrane garments anymore and only use Paramo stuff which I don't like the Grangers stuff for - doesn't seem to work well on the pump liner - so I stick with Nikwax as the fabrics and proofer products were developed together.
🤣🤣is it Harry’s. Great video👍🏻
Haha it is definitely not mine
Old white hair. Hi. I worked in outdoor retail for years. The last five at Kong in Keswick until I retired. I too wear Paramo but also use membrane waterproofs. Regards Nikwax it doesn't require tumble drying and not owning a tumble dryer makes sense for me. Whenever I needed to advise customers on how to take care of their hardshells I always recommended Nikwax. It never ceased to amaze me the number of folk that didn't realize the need to regularly wash their kit.
Hi Iain, something I always advise customers is that - although using a water-softener tablet or soda crystals (which are a handy extra boost to the cleaning process) is fine when washing an item, it seems from my experience to inhibit the take-up (by the fabric) of the proofer. This also seems, from my experience, to be more so with Grangers' proofer than Nikwax, though I don't use any water softening agent when proofing with Nikwax products, either, only for the wash cycle(s). After all, you've already cleaned the product, and proofing is an entirely different effect, in that you want the product to remain in the fabric, and not to be affected, or possibly removed, by any washing effect the water-softening agent may impart to the process. This further highlights the contradictory nature of any two-in-one product, which IMO can't really ever be totally effective, so are best used (if at all) on brand new items, which haven't had time to get mucky with dirt or sweat. Best use of a 2-in-1 product is to impart a modicum of proofing on a new item to put off the inevitable day it REALLY needs a proper clean/proof. Then, and thereafter, it will need to be treated with separate wash and proofer. Readers will gather, from my comments above, that IMO the use of a water-softening agent will render the proofing agent in a 2-in-1 product, already marginal, completely ineffective. Best to stick with separates, IMO. I personally believe that Grangers only market a 2-in-1 because their main market rival - Nikwax - don't, and never have.
Hi Paul!
I've used this stuff twice I've even tried adding twice the amount, and it still doesn't work
If you’re using a cycle that rinses twice, it probably won’t work. Need to be a synthetic or delicates cycle with only one rinse, then straight in the dryer.
I’ve only found this product to be very good.
The beeping on that washing machine can probably be adjusted or turned off.
Yes, with a hammer 😂
Video is spot on, no faffing about.
Thank you!
do you really wash your own jacket ?? no way ! you just look in your cupboard for a new one
Hahaha wow rude