Paul, Thank you for taking the time to show how to properly loosen and adjust the tie rod. I recently got my model A and sometimes a book description is no match for a well made video.
A BIG thank you!! I purchased the toe in tool, and found mine to be 3/4" Toe In. When I was starting to do the adjustments, the first item I found was 9/16 bolts not totally tight, and no cotter pins in the castle bolts. Next I did use PB Blaster a few days prior, and was well worth it as when I applied the pipe wrench, it did move fairly easily. I got it down to 1/16", tightened, and loved the fun and games of lining up the hole/castle/cotter pin, but was well worth it. No more crazy wobbles, and it is much more a pleasure to drive. Thanks as always Paul for producing and posting these great videos! Gave you credit as well on the FordBarn site.
Excellent!! So glad it worked out! Thanks for the kind word on "the barn". A few of the trolling "experts" on that site just hate my guts for some weird reason. I have no dislike for anyone there, but I just cannot hang out there and constantly deal with the negativity. That's very sad really. I would pike to hang out there (if it was different).
I may have missed something but I belive in the video you show the pointer is pointing at 1/8 inch and you call it right on when it is 1/32 over spec Each division on the scale is 1/16 inch. Check it out. I am using the same tool a it is in 1/16 increments . Makes difficult but when its on, it is on. Very good video.
Another EXCELLENT video. Please do make more. BTW I scribe a direction mark on the bolt end showing which way the cotter pin hole heads. Makes it 100 times easier to find that rabbit hole.
Lots of others want to know where to purchase the Alignment Tool. Would you be abke post a link where to buy. Have been a subscriber and tell others of your great videos too.
This video is being praised on Ford Barn right now. Thought you should know you are helping a lot of folks. Glad you are still with us and on the mend. Hope we can meet some day.
Purchased the tool and aligned the front end on my 1931 Model A. It was off an inch and a half. That explains the abnormal front tire wear. It seems to make a huge difference in the ride! Thanks so much for making this video. It was a simple procedure that even a novice like me can do. Great content.
Love the channel Paul, we are the caretakers (owners but I feel like we are caretakers while we have the pleasure of ownership!) of a 1927 Buick 27/27 Standard. We love it, although after we found it sitting in a garage for approx 25-30 years it obviously has flat spots on the tires as it shakes and jerks the steering wheel around pretty good at slower speeds. However after watching this video I feel like the alignment might be partly to blame!
@@ModelA I’m going to order a set of tires first, while they look new they are old and again for sitting for so long obviously have flat spots on them. We tried keeping the car on a lift for two months with the tires overinflated but no go and it didn’t help at all. So tires then alignment. Car looks pretty good however it has the original interior, while not torn it is heavily worn and faded, other than that the car looks great! We are in the market for a Model T and an A, I really enjoy your channel.....
Dear Paul I adjusted the tracking today. It had 25mm that was further apart in the front than the rear. of the wheels. What a great difference. I drove 80 km and that was very relaxed. I'm sure 100 km shouldn't be a problem either. But that's not what I bought the A Ford for. Again Paul. Thank you for the explanation. Regards Fred from the Netherlands 🙃🙃🔧🔧🔧
Very helpful. I ordered my tool as well and just found mine toed in at 1/4”. Still have one more to check after I make this adjustment. Thank you, Paul, for all the helpful info you post.
I had a terrible front wheel wobble even at slow speeds. Adjusted front wheel bearings and looked for anything loose, all good. I used a shower curtain rod and a sharpie pen to mark front and back toe measurements. I had a close to 1/2" toe in. Adjusted until it was even and took my AA truck up to 45 plus MPH with no wobble whatsoever. Not quite as fancy or accurate as the gauge, but it worked and was free.
I bought the tool for toe in & out. I was like you no death wobble but when check i was off 1/2 inc. So after your advice and tool all good. And I can tell a difference even though was not noticeable before. Thanks again God I wish I lived closer and was part or your club. I have joined still looking for a good mechanic mechanic!
Outstanding video, my late 31' actually drive amazing straight as an arrow ( found some very level concrete roads near our airport.. ) That said, I will still have to try your check anyway.
Great video! I bought the tool and tried this tonight. The ‘Death Wobble’ is gone!!! Thank you!! Now to figure out why it steers harder than an International Dump Truck without power steering!
That alignment tool sure would speed things up. Just did mine using a long dowel with a machine screw in the end. The car does track nice and straight now though.
Thank you Paul. Tomorrow I will measure whether my Ford is also better on the road. I drove them in my Ford for the first time today. And I found it exciting. I don't dare drive faster than 60 km. I think that should be better. I'm really used to it. But I thought this was really too dangerous Thanks Regards Fred Dank je wel Paul. Ik ga morgen meten of mijn Ford ook beter op de weg ligt. ik hen vandaag voor het eerst in mijn Ford gereden. En ik vond het spannend. Harder dan 60 km durf ik niet te rijden. Dat moet beter kunnen denk ik. Ik ben echt wel wat gewend. Maar dit vond ik echt te gevaarlijk Dank Groet Fred
I built a car with a straight axle. Did an alignment. Thing was impossible to drive over 45 mph. Checked it again. I had 3/4” toe in. Turns out I had a bent rim so when I set it the first time I was way off. Got a new rim and realigned. Now it’s fine at Highway speeds.
Great front and alignment tool love that always had to use the one I made similar hey maybe you could do a show on your windshield wipers that flaps around as you drive if that can be repaired or that’s just the way they are
Where can I get the blue glove for the right hand and the black one for the left??? I just know I would be a better mechanic if I had those gloves... 🤣😂 I love your video's Paul !!! Thanks for sharing and taking the time to make them.
Easy! Next time you're at the doctor's office getting "The Exam" (you know the one), ask the doc for a glove. Then, head to the nearest mechanic shop and ask for one.
@@ModelA I had a 31 coupe when I was 14. (1964) It was a needy car. When I graduated high school, I set out for California. The steering had a half turn of play and I would generally balance the steering against the slant of the road, but occasionally a bump would set up a shimmy that required a hard turn or even a stop. The mountains were a real adventure. I think a video on the steering box, pitman arm, and front end deficiencies would be of real value to the beginners. I drove a friends tudor in a parade recently, and this very nice car shimmied twice on the short trip. There was some play in its steering, but not very much. Somewhere I've seen a hydraulic add-on that would prevent this, but the real source of the shimmy is hard to nail down I guess. Perhaps some of your senior friends would have some good info to add too. Perhaps the toe-in is the real answer???
We call that "death wobble". Usually caused by very worn steering joints and steering box. 1/2" of play at center is the most you want for a good driving Model A. No amount of adjustment to a worn out steering will fix that. You rebuild the steering box and front end to fix.
Thanks for showing the correct way to do this. I had assumed the gage would need to be much higher, near the center line of the wheel for both measurements. Apparently gage height does not matter as long as its the same front and rear?
Hey Paul, I'm a new subscriber and love your videos. I'm kinda' scrathching my head about the toe-in bar. It would be great if your wheels were perfectly straight, but I think we need to compensate for wheel runout (bent wheels). Did I miss something? Keep doing what you're doing. Rick Olson (retired front-end mechanic and alignment tech) Philomath, Oregon.
Paul I just rebuilt my 1931 model A Widebed pickup from frame up. Everything was tight on the front end when I started driving it. Now have 250 miles on it and jacked up the front end this weekend because I noticed a little bit of play in the steering. I found the steering box needed a slight turn on the adjustments to be snug again and also when wiggling the top and bottom of the wheel I have a very slight bit of play. Is this normal after a total rebuild to need to go through and retorque or should I dig deeper? I used NOS spindles but I may have been taken. I took their word for it and didn’t actually put a micrometer to the spindles. I have spindle shims on the wall for another pickup I was building but may need to put them on these so called NOS spindles. My wife says I put a lot of faith in what people tell me way too often…… P.S. since cowl bands aren’t being reproduced by anyone that I know of anymore could you show us tips on bringing an old dented one back up to nice useable condition? Also how to repair a stainless radiator shell?
Paul, another great 'How ya doit' video. I have been looking for an alignment tool like yours. Can I ask where you purchased it? I'm not too thrilled with the one Bratton's has. Thanks
Great video. I have the issue when I moved it forward the chains were not aligned on the backside after being aligned on the front. I assumed the wheel must not have been straight but I adjusted and tried again with same results. Any thoughts?
Tried to reach u but the emails aren't going through. Watched your toeing video, very informative. Tried looking up the handy dandy gauge but can't find one. Where are they 2 b found?
Hello Paul. I have installed a flathead V8 into my A truck. I am going to put in a rack and pinion steering. How do I remove the stock steering arm and crossmember?
The steering arm comes off after you completely remove the bolt that tightens the pitman arm. There's a froove that folt fits in and keeps it from coming off.
Good morning Paul, I am wanting to order the alignment tool but didn’t know if I needed to buy any accessories along with it? The picture on Amazon is it really clear if it has the gauges or if I have to buy a separate tool for the gauge. Thank you
Paul, mine like yours,half inch, turned rod to 0,pushed car back, 1/2 inch on gauge,pushed forward is 0,I'm a newbie to this,what did I do wrong? THANK YOU
My ‘30 Tudor wanders all over the road. I bought this alignment tool. When I follow your instructions it shows 1/16” toe in. But let me ask this: we set up the tool with the chains just touching the ground, when I’m approximately half way, the gauge shows 7/16” toe out, then when I complete the process to where the chains are just touching again it shows 1/16” toe in. Is this normal?
@@BryanNewton-j6c Check steering box adjustment and tightness. Check the pitman arm where it bolts to the end of the sector shaft. That has to be perfect with zero slop. Check all the tierod ends, etc. Then Kingpins. That's the order I go.
Beau, the tool will work on any car or truck including your T. Being that it is a hot rod there is numerous suspension types the car could have on it without seeing it I have to make assumptions. More than likely your Model T has a hydraulic brake "buggy style" (just like this model Model A in this video the only difference is you will probably have split radius rods or hairpin radius rods). Fords From 1908 to 1948 (on cars, trucks was 1956 I believe) the basic principle of the I-beam Henry Ford suspension is all the same using a mono leaf pack and getting hydraulic brakes in 1940 you model T I would imagine has a factory Henry Ford or aftermarket Ford style I beam setup. As for the tool in this video, All it is doing is giving you an accurate measurement that you can do by yourself, it will give you the exact same height between the front and the rear of the tires and can't move. You can technically do this with a quality tape measure (like a Stanley you see every contractor have clipped to their side in a Home Depot), You will need a friend to help hold one end of the tape measure. You will use same measurement points from the left and right side of the car tires (use the exact center of the tire and you will take two measurements with the car on the ground (not on jack stands) using the front and rear of each front tire go up about 6" high off the ground. A good rule of thumb is about an 1/8" toe in will get you in the ball park regardless of the car (obviously if you have the service manual use the measurement in the service manual not the ⅛" rule). Also I should mention when you do your adjustments you do it with the car sitting on flat level ground you do not do the adjustments with the front end in the air. Not that this is important but the The reason of having a bit toe in is so when the vehicle gets up to speed the tires are pulled straight. If you have too much toe ib the tires will scrub going down the road and they will generally wear out the inside edge of the tires... If the tires have too much toe out they will scrub the outside of the tires. No toe at all will cause the tires to wear out at freeway speeds but around town the car will drive totally normal. BTW the 1/8" toe in is what causes the feathering on the tires and that is why it is recommended that you rotate the tires to keep them round and prolong their life.
Thanks found it in the description... love your videos... mostly straight to the point and clear explanation.... helps so much ... putting in points tomorrow
@@ModelA Thank you for taking the time to write me back. Through a series of unhappy circumstances, I have come into a 1926 2dr Model T. It has the same problem it's always had. It has the "Death Shudder" in the steering at approx 15mph+. I took your words to heart about alignment. I will try the stick first. Otherwise, I may have to replace bushing and steering shaft. Thanks again!
I really want one! I'm divorced and my ex took our only vehicle. I want a car for local running! I live in E. TN. Who would you suggest I contact? It would see less than 10,000 miles a year. (I'm retired)
@@ModelA Found one, thanks! "Smokey Mountain Model 'A' Club. They claim to be the oldest in the country/World... chartered in 1961. Been thinking about one, for quite a spell. But hesitant due to precieved cost and availability of a reliable specimen. Not abused, hacked up or rusted thru. Now... as stated, I'm divorced now. My only vehicle is a Harley Motorcycle. And the cost of new cars and the cost of maintaining them... and they have no class! You showing how to "Plug in" a USB port. I could install my GPS and phone, and have directions and music! Thanks again! Can you give the name of the "Red Book" again? I never seem to have a pencil around when you say.
I like your channel. I am a big fan of mechanics and other craftsmen/women wearing the proper PPE. You only have 2 eyes, so if you lose one, you also lose your depth perception!
I just recently got use of both eyes after a life-long cataract in the right eye. Had cataract surgery on both about 10 years ago and haven't seen better in my life! Very protective of them now.
Paul,
Thank you for taking the time to show how to properly loosen and adjust the tie rod. I recently got my model A and sometimes a book description is no match for a well made video.
Glad it helped
Unreal! After I did your steps on the steering box adjustment and toe-in, my Roadster drives as straight as my 2024 truck! Thanks Paul!!
Awesome! Good work Rick.
A BIG thank you!! I purchased the toe in tool, and found mine to be 3/4" Toe In. When I was starting to do the adjustments, the first item I found was 9/16 bolts not totally tight, and no cotter pins in the castle bolts. Next I did use PB Blaster a few days prior, and was well worth it as when I applied the pipe wrench, it did move fairly easily. I got it down to 1/16", tightened, and loved the fun and games of lining up the hole/castle/cotter pin, but was well worth it. No more crazy wobbles, and it is much more a pleasure to drive. Thanks as always Paul for producing and posting these great videos! Gave you credit as well on the FordBarn site.
Excellent!! So glad it worked out! Thanks for the kind word on "the barn". A few of the trolling "experts" on that site just hate my guts for some weird reason. I have no dislike for anyone there, but I just cannot hang out there and constantly deal with the negativity. That's very sad really. I would pike to hang out there (if it was different).
I may have missed something but I belive in the video you show the pointer is pointing at 1/8 inch and you call it right on when it is 1/32 over spec Each division on the scale is 1/16 inch. Check it out. I am using the same tool a it is in 1/16 increments . Makes difficult but when its on, it is on. Very good video.
I am glad to see that I am not the only person whose windshield wiper flops around while driving!
Hahaa
Another EXCELLENT video. Please do make more. BTW I scribe a direction mark on the bolt end showing which way the cotter pin hole heads. Makes it 100 times easier to find that rabbit hole.
Lots of others want to know where to purchase the Alignment Tool. Would you be abke
post a link where to buy. Have been a subscriber and tell others of your great videos too.
Sure. Here you go- www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-99361-Camber-Measuring/dp/B00I5KPFRK
This video is being praised on Ford Barn right now. Thought you should know you are helping a lot of folks. Glad you are still with us and on the mend. Hope we can meet some day.
Purchased the tool and aligned the front end on my 1931 Model A. It was off an inch and a half. That explains the abnormal front tire wear. It seems to make a huge difference in the ride! Thanks so much for making this video. It was a simple procedure that even a novice like me can do. Great content.
Awesome!! Good work Jim!
I bought a gauge on Amazon like yours other day ..now I be able to check my alignment on my 29 Tudor & 24 T
Love the channel Paul, we are the caretakers (owners but I feel like we are caretakers while we have the pleasure of ownership!) of a 1927 Buick 27/27 Standard.
We love it, although after we found it sitting in a garage for approx 25-30 years it obviously has flat spots on the tires as it shakes and jerks the steering wheel around pretty good at slower speeds.
However after watching this video I feel like the alignment might be partly to blame!
I hope that is all you need to fix it!
@@ModelA I’m going to order a set of tires first, while they look new they are old and again for sitting for so long obviously have flat spots on them. We tried keeping the car on a lift for two months with the tires overinflated but no go and it didn’t help at all. So tires then alignment. Car looks pretty good however it has the original interior, while not torn it is heavily worn and faded, other than that the car looks great!
We are in the market for a Model T and an A, I really enjoy your channel.....
@@TreadTalk247 You're really going all out!! Good work.
Thanks Paul, someone hit me last year and I think my alignment is way off.Going to try your method.
3:43 The only guy I know who color coordinated his tools with his wheels!
Thanks for sharing. Going to check this tool out.
The name of the tool is "Duby Alignment Gauge". Current (June 2020) Amazon price $88.00
Dear Paul
I adjusted the tracking today. It had 25mm that was further apart in the front than the rear. of the wheels.
What a great difference.
I drove 80 km and that was very relaxed.
I'm sure 100 km shouldn't be a problem either.
But that's not what I bought the A Ford for.
Again Paul.
Thank you for the explanation.
Regards Fred from the Netherlands 🙃🙃🔧🔧🔧
Good work Fred!!
Very helpful. I ordered my tool as well and just found mine toed in at 1/4”. Still have one more to check after I make this adjustment.
Thank you, Paul, for all the helpful info you post.
Glad it helped, Chad!
Six teen inch.
@@patrickquirk-qz8rithe spec calls for 3/16 +/- 1/16
I had a terrible front wheel wobble even at slow speeds. Adjusted front wheel bearings and looked for anything loose, all good. I used a shower curtain rod and a sharpie pen to mark front and back toe measurements. I had a close to 1/2" toe in. Adjusted until it was even and took my AA truck up to 45 plus MPH with no wobble whatsoever. Not quite as fancy or accurate as the gauge, but it worked and was free.
If it works, is it still a dumb idea? That's how I see it. Success!!
I just ordered this tool. I bet this will help 110% since my truck also wanders all over the road.
Where can I get the "Toe In" adjusting tool you used in the video????????????
I have one of those gauges, and need to set my Model T alignment, which is the same procedure. Thanks for showing how to use it.
Henry sure made things simple. The model A is one of my favourite cars. Best regards Dave 🇬🇧
Best car America ever produced, no argument!
I bought the tool for toe in & out. I was like you no death wobble but when check i was off 1/2 inc. So after your advice and tool all good. And I can tell a difference even though was not noticeable before. Thanks again God I wish I lived closer and was part or your club. I have joined still looking for a good mechanic mechanic!
You are the warranty, Gary! Fine work
Outstanding video, my late 31' actually drive amazing straight as an arrow ( found some very level concrete roads near our airport.. ) That said, I will still have to try your check anyway.
Great video! I bought the tool and tried this tonight. The ‘Death Wobble’ is gone!!! Thank you!! Now to figure out why it steers harder than an International Dump Truck without power steering!
Good work!!
That alignment tool sure would speed things up. Just did mine using a long dowel with a machine screw in the end. The car does track nice and straight now though.
I did mine with a measuring tape saved me $88 👍🏻
Or cut a 2x4 to approximate length.
Great video, thanks. Looking forward to future videos.
Should have my bar this coming Tuesday
I have the same alignment tool! Easy to use and it works!
Yes!!
Where can I find this exact tool?
Thank you Paul.
Tomorrow I will measure whether my Ford is also better on the road. I drove them in my Ford for the first time today.
And I found it exciting. I don't dare drive faster than 60 km.
I think that should be better.
I'm really used to it.
But I thought this was really too dangerous
Thanks Regards Fred
Dank je wel Paul.
Ik ga morgen meten of mijn Ford ook beter op de weg ligt. ik hen vandaag voor het eerst in mijn Ford gereden.
En ik vond het spannend. Harder dan 60 km durf ik niet te rijden.
Dat moet beter kunnen denk ik.
Ik ben echt wel wat gewend.
Maar dit vond ik echt te gevaarlijk
Dank Groet Fred
Very nice, Fred! Good work man
I’d be sure the wheels are close to true. Many are not over the years. Used the chalk method but gauge very cool!
Que buen video. Super didáctico. Me gustaría conseguir el manual de taller de Ford A.
That's pretty slick. Never seen one before.
Pretty simple way to do it
If safety is your number 1 priority you shouldn’t be in a shop and definitely shouldn’t operate a model A. 😊 Love the vids!
Breathing is dangerous too.
I need that tool! It’s a pain with tape measure when I’m alone and working on my a with 4 inch drop axle!
Link for the tool is in the description. I love mine!
I built a car with a straight axle. Did an alignment. Thing was impossible to drive over 45 mph. Checked it again. I had 3/4” toe in. Turns out I had a bent rim so when I set it the first time I was way off. Got a new rim and realigned. Now it’s fine at Highway speeds.
That'll do it.
Great front and alignment tool love that always had to use the one I made similar hey maybe you could do a show on your windshield wipers that flaps around as you drive if that can be repaired or that’s just the way they are
That wiper is customized to do that.
Caster and camber can be adjusted it just requires bending/twisting the beam axle
Thanks Paul for all you do. I've got to get the money up to buy one :-)
Go for it!
Where can I get the blue glove for the right hand and the black one for the left??? I just know I would be a better mechanic if I had those gloves... 🤣😂 I love your video's Paul !!! Thanks for sharing and taking the time to make them.
Easy! Next time you're at the doctor's office getting "The Exam" (you know the one), ask the doc for a glove. Then, head to the nearest mechanic shop and ask for one.
Very interesting and informative! Stay safe and have a good day.
Hey Bob! Nice to see you here, Raptor!
Paul, could you address the infamous front end shimmy problem specifically?
Sure, Rob. What would you like to know?
@@ModelA I had a 31 coupe when I was 14. (1964) It was a needy car. When I graduated high school, I set out for California. The steering had a half turn of play and I would generally balance the steering against the slant of the road, but occasionally a bump would set up a shimmy that required a hard turn or even a stop. The mountains were a real adventure. I think a video on the steering box, pitman arm, and front end deficiencies would be of real value to the beginners.
I drove a friends tudor in a parade recently, and this very nice car shimmied twice on the short trip. There was some play in its steering, but not very much. Somewhere I've seen a hydraulic add-on that would prevent this, but the real source of the shimmy is hard to nail down I guess.
Perhaps some of your senior friends would have some good info to add too. Perhaps the toe-in is the real answer???
We call that "death wobble". Usually caused by very worn steering joints and steering box. 1/2" of play at center is the most you want for a good driving Model A. No amount of adjustment to a worn out steering will fix that. You rebuild the steering box and front end to fix.
Thanks for showing the correct way to do this. I had assumed the gage would need to be much higher, near the center line of the wheel for both measurements. Apparently gage height does not matter as long as its the same front and rear?
Correct
The guage cannot be higher because the oil pan would hit the rod. the distance front and rear has to be the same height from the floor.
As always .. thanks for the great tutorial
Thank you Paul, great video. I thought I could apply your method in Model T Ford either?
Yes, absolutely
Hey Paul, I'm a new subscriber and love your videos.
I'm kinda' scrathching my head about the toe-in bar. It would be great if your wheels were perfectly straight, but I think we need to compensate for wheel runout (bent wheels). Did I miss something?
Keep doing what you're doing.
Rick Olson (retired front-end mechanic and alignment tech)
Philomath, Oregon.
Hey Rick. That is true, but I just assumed anyone driving their Model A has straight wheels by now. Mine have less than 30 thou. runout.
I don't care what anyone says, I like your blue wheels, I wish mine were that straight....@@ModelA
My mother told me of a time when their 31 Fordor had the dreaded death wobble, they were all very scared
It is a bit spooky when it happens!
Great video! Thank you for posting. What year and body style is that Model A in this video? Beautiful car!
Thanks! 1931 Sport Coupe
Mine was off worse than your example. Now it's set.
Mr. Shinn, I have seen several of you videos on the Model A Ford. Is it possible to use jack stands to hold the car up when working under it?
When the wheels are still on the ground?
Paul I just rebuilt my 1931 model A Widebed pickup from frame up. Everything was tight on the front end when I started driving it. Now have 250 miles on it and jacked up the front end this weekend because I noticed a little bit of play in the steering. I found the steering box needed a slight turn on the adjustments to be snug again and also when wiggling the top and bottom of the wheel I have a very slight bit of play. Is this normal after a total rebuild to need to go through and retorque or should I dig deeper? I used NOS spindles but I may have been taken. I took their word for it and didn’t actually put a micrometer to the spindles. I have spindle shims on the wall for another pickup
I was building but may need to put them on these so called NOS spindles.
My wife says I put a lot of faith in what people tell me way too often……
P.S. since cowl bands aren’t being reproduced by anyone that I know of anymore could you show us tips on bringing an old dented one back up to nice useable condition? Also how to repair a stainless radiator shell?
Paul, another great 'How ya doit' video. I have been looking for an alignment tool like yours. Can I ask where you purchased it? I'm not too thrilled with the one Bratton's has. Thanks
Thanks! See the video description for the link to the tool you see here.
@@ModelA oops, missed it. Thanks.
Are you wearing different coloured gloves so you can tell which hand is which?
Yes, I confuse easily!
@@ModelA 😄
Great video. I have the issue when I moved it forward the chains were not aligned on the backside after being aligned on the front. I assumed the wheel must not have been straight but I adjusted and tried again with same results. Any thoughts?
No idea. Is the tool slipping? They are so dirt simple, not much can go wrong
Tried to reach u but the emails aren't going through. Watched your toeing video, very informative. Tried looking up the handy dandy gauge but can't find one. Where are they 2 b found?
Nice work!! there is a link in the video description. Just click that and it takes you right to it.
Thanks for all your help though.
Thanks Michael
Excellent, and thank you
Your pliers match the wheels.
How can i get the toe in gauge you use in your video?
Link is in the description
Just subbed my friend!
Precioso!! FELICITACIONES..!!
Paul, I found that the passenger side stock shock hit the inside of the fender. What would cause this? I have photos I could share.
Someone probably mounted a left side shock on the right side or vice verse
the toein guage should go on the wheel and not the tire because tire sidewalls are not always straight
I have the one that clamps on to door jamb.
Sorry I can’t send photo.
Got it,thank you
Hello Paul. I have installed a flathead V8 into my A truck. I am going to put in a rack and pinion steering. How do I remove the stock steering arm and crossmember?
The steering arm comes off after you completely remove the bolt that tightens the pitman arm. There's a froove that folt fits in and keeps it from coming off.
Good morning Paul, I am wanting to order the alignment tool but didn’t know if I needed to buy any accessories along with it? The picture on Amazon is it really clear if it has the gauges or if I have to buy a separate tool for the gauge. Thank you
Hi Mark. The tool comes complete. Nothing else needed. Everything except the car is included!
@@ModelA thank you very much.
You mentioned an motor assembly video, have you done that one yet? Did a search, but didn't find anything.
It is still filming. Just recorded another segment for it yesterday. Sorry this stuff takes me so long.
@@ModelA Looking forward to it! I could watch a video every day! I might have a problem. 🙄
NOT a problem, my friend! Let's call it a thirst for knowledge!
Do you have any tips for drivers side mirror. At highway speeds the mirror seems to get pushed up by the wind. How tight can that nut go?
Since Model A's didn't come with them, all the outside mirrors are aftermarket, I don't know which one you have.
Paul, mine like yours,half inch, turned rod to 0,pushed car back, 1/2 inch on gauge,pushed forward is 0,I'm a newbie to this,what did I do wrong? THANK YOU
You're suppose to calibrate while the car is back, then push the car forward and read gauge
Toe in does not make a car wander! Toe out does that. Since you are not measuring at the tread, what is the conversion factor to get the real toe in?
I said that. As for ultimate measurement, I don't know. This is how Ford did it 95 years ago, and it still works perfectly on these
Love the shirt! Haha
Thanks, Juan!
Paul,where did you get that bar, THANKS
Link in the description. Thanks!
Where can I get the "toe-in-guage" used in your video?
link in the description above. From the jungle website
My ‘30 Tudor wanders all over the road. I bought this alignment tool. When I follow your instructions it shows 1/16” toe in. But let me ask this: we set up the tool with the chains just touching the ground, when I’m approximately half way, the gauge shows 7/16” toe out, then when I complete the process to where the chains are just touching again it shows 1/16” toe in. Is this normal?
Yes. That's because Model As have a lot of camber.
Thank you for the quick response. What else should I check for my wandering Tudor?
@@BryanNewton-j6c Check steering box adjustment and tightness. Check the pitman arm where it bolts to the end of the sector shaft. That has to be perfect with zero slop. Check all the tierod ends, etc. Then Kingpins. That's the order I go.
Thank you. I have plenty more of your videos to watch. Thanks again.
PAUL . WHERE DID YOU PURCHASE THAT BAR . THANKS.
Swap meet. There is a link in the video description for the same one on Amazon
Does the tool rely on wheels that are true?
oddly, no
Nope,most model a wheels are bent.
Would this tool work for my T bucket hot rod 🤔 as well as other cars?
I don't see why not
@@ModelA Thanks! Good informative video👌
Beau, the tool will work on any car or truck including your T.
Being that it is a hot rod there is numerous suspension types the car could have on it without seeing it I have to make assumptions. More than likely your Model T has a hydraulic brake "buggy style" (just like this model Model A in this video the only difference is you will probably have split radius rods or hairpin radius rods). Fords From 1908 to 1948 (on cars, trucks was 1956 I believe) the basic principle of the I-beam Henry Ford suspension is all the same using a mono leaf pack and getting hydraulic brakes in 1940 you model T I would imagine has a factory Henry Ford or aftermarket Ford style I beam setup.
As for the tool in this video, All it is doing is giving you an accurate measurement that you can do by yourself, it will give you the exact same height between the front and the rear of the tires and can't move.
You can technically do this with a quality tape measure (like a Stanley you see every contractor have clipped to their side in a Home Depot), You will need a friend to help hold one end of the tape measure. You will use same measurement points from the left and right side of the car tires (use the exact center of the tire and you will take two measurements with the car on the ground (not on jack stands) using the front and rear of each front tire go up about 6" high off the ground. A good rule of thumb is about an 1/8" toe in will get you in the ball park regardless of the car (obviously if you have the service manual use the measurement in the service manual not the ⅛" rule).
Also I should mention when you do your adjustments you do it with the car sitting on flat level ground you do not do the adjustments with the front end in the air.
Not that this is important but the The reason of having a bit toe in is so when the vehicle gets up to speed the tires are pulled straight. If you have too much toe ib the tires will scrub going down the road and they will generally wear out the inside edge of the tires... If the tires have too much toe out they will scrub the outside of the tires. No toe at all will cause the tires to wear out at freeway speeds but around town the car will drive totally normal.
BTW the 1/8" toe in is what causes the feathering on the tires and that is why it is recommended that you rotate the tires to keep them round and prolong their life.
Love the shirt!
Thank you! Can you tell that I'm an engineer?
@@ModelA but what kind of pie?
Tonight, it was apple.
@@ModelA excellent choice! :)
That’s it?
Any links for the tow in bar ?
Yes. Scroll down. It's in the description. Thanks!
Thanks found it in the description... love your videos... mostly straight to the point and clear explanation.... helps so much ... putting in points tomorrow
Excellent! Please report back and Let us know how it goes.
Where do you get a front end alignment tool?
www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-99374-Camber-Measuring/dp/B00I5KPDLI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=toe+in+gauge&qid=1599424070&sr=8-8&linkCode=sl1&tag=paulshinn-20&linkId=ea4f63c901b9c3741414bc0e680cf053&language=en_US
@@ModelA Thank you for taking the time to write me back. Through a series of unhappy circumstances, I have come into a 1926 2dr Model T. It has the same problem it's always had. It has the "Death Shudder" in the steering at approx 15mph+. I took your words to heart about alignment. I will try the stick first. Otherwise, I may have to replace bushing and steering shaft. Thanks again!
I really want one! I'm divorced and my ex took our only vehicle. I want a car for local running! I live in E. TN. Who would you suggest I contact? It would see less than 10,000 miles a year. (I'm retired)
Start with your local club. They know where all the good cars are and what to avoid near you.
@@ModelA Found one, thanks! "Smokey Mountain Model 'A' Club. They claim to be the oldest in the country/World... chartered in 1961.
Been thinking about one, for quite a spell. But hesitant due to precieved cost and availability of a reliable specimen. Not abused, hacked up or rusted thru.
Now... as stated, I'm divorced now. My only vehicle is a Harley Motorcycle. And the cost of new cars and the cost of maintaining them... and they have no class!
You showing how to "Plug in" a USB port. I could install my GPS and phone, and have directions and music!
Thanks again!
Can you give the name of the "Red Book" again? I never seem to have a pencil around when you say.
I like your channel. I am a big fan of mechanics and other craftsmen/women wearing the proper PPE. You only have 2 eyes, so if you lose one, you also lose your depth perception!
I just recently got use of both eyes after a life-long cataract in the right eye. Had cataract surgery on both about 10 years ago and haven't seen better in my life! Very protective of them now.
Nothing like getting a piece of wire from a wire wheel or a metal shaving in your eye