I've laid around 500 sq feet of tile at home with the Peygran system, all at 1/16". I've done walls and floors and I've had great results. Preparing flat surfaces before tile is always time well spent, and it's no different with this system, or it ends up lifting the tiles to compensate and potentially creating voids. Good to see every tile being back-buttered (or burned) and that a membrane is used under the tiles. However, the thinset lines should be running in the direction of the short side (easier to collapse the ridges) and Peygran also recommend tapping the tiles with a rubber mallet after setting to release any tension. I think I've worked my way through 1,500 spacers by now but still working with the original 200 wedges. The tiling pattern determines how many spacers/wedges are needed, but an offset pattern consumes a ton of them. Even so, 200 wedges on a 12 x 24 tile got 80 square feet laid. Another note, is that you must lay the area in one go, as well as the edges. If the thinset isn't moist, the system can't level so leaving the edges until the next day doesn't work as that edge is immovable. I've also learned to keep the spacers near the joins, so with a third-offset like here, I would have install 4 spacers on each long edge, two at the extremes but two around the adjoining intersection to minimize lippage. In Canada, I get my refills from Amazon.
Great Vid. I am remodeling my bathroom and your channel has been entertaining and informative. Your video on grouting mistake was shocking and timely, I took the super-duper grout back to Floor and Decor for the old-fashioned product that afforded a DYI more time to clean the tile. Thanks for the heads up.
I have been doing a number of home improvement projects and we're about to tackle our bathroom, I'm definitely going to try these. Perfectly timed video! And using your other videos for bathroom reno for reference. Thanks for such awesome videos! Keep them coming!!
Informative as always! I haven't seen all of your videos, but have you done or could you do one soon about installing pre-hung doors and/or proper installation of the trim around them.
The only issue I had when using this system is that when you tightened the wedges, the grout lines spread apart thus giving me inconsistent grout lines. I tried the wedges both ways too. You would think it would force tight grout lines, but it didnt. Worked like a charm eliminating lippage. I used12x24 porcelain tiles on my shower walls.
I was wondering I watched a lot of your videos and I was wondering have you done a complete video from subfloor prep to cement board than straight to tiling?
I watched this 15x after my first half-assed tile job. I'm using these on my upstairs solarium.... Can the 1/16th work with non-rectified 12x24" tiles?
I like that the clips didn't break. How difficult was it to remove them the next day? Also did you have to dig into the joint when thinset prevented all of the clip from fully detaching?
Hi David, the clips removed extremely well the next day. They were crazy strong vertically but had a great weak spot for the horizontal force needed to break them off. I didn't have any pieces left behind after 200 sq feet of that product which meant no digging and no damage to the tile.
self levelling compound is only £14 a bag in UK and that does 2.5 square metres at 6mm depth. Takes 8 hours to set and you have a perfect level surface.
I kept hoping you would slide the quarter from the other direction to see if it still hit the lip of the opposite tile, which would invalidate the test. Also maybe putting a level on it just to see the edges as well? I have not used these yet, but going to try. It seems it will be much quicker because you can avoid a level in terms of verifying your lips, but I will still pop it quickly until which time I grow confident. It's not fun being type A...
just kick them off in the direction of the grout line. they have been manufactured with a weak spot so they come off quite easily. It is also a little theraputic. Cheers!
Was the tile being laid on a heated floor mat????? If not what was the underlayment you were using... Do you have any other techniques for laying tile on heated floor mats...Thx for your video..
Great question! You can lay tile on heated mats that are anchored directly to the floor with or without floor leveler. In this case I used the pro-va uncoupling membrane in order to protect the tile from potential cracking since this house was a new build and not done settling yet. It also helped to reduce the transition going to the dmx plus plywood floor with laminate finish.
Great work💯💯👊👊👊 when you dont use clip systems do you constantly use the level to check if the floor is going flat and leveled without seeing gaps under the level? Thanks in advance 💯🙏
Very nice video. Can you comment on how the leveling systems don't create voids under the tile? It seems to me that when you put the wedge under stress it's going to push one tile tighter and lift the other one up ever so slightly. That void is a potential cracked tile down the road, right?
@@jonvanlandingham2538 I use them all the time,Topps ones. Never had a failure. What I would say is this bed he's using isn't deep enough. Use a deep notch,collapse ridges and back butter it works very very well.
would a system like this be good for tiling a wall? My tiles are 4 x 16 inch subway tile so I'm not really sure if it will be enough surface area to use the wedges.
I'm replacing the tile in our entry way because all the tiles next to the wall had come loose. When I removed the loose tiles I found out that the cement slab that the floor is built on ends 3 inches from the wall and the last 3 inches of floor are on the foundation which supports the walls. The original builder's solution to deal with possible movement along the joint was simply not to put thinset onto the wall foundation so the tiles along the edge were only partially supported, which, I assume is, why they all failed. The gap is a consistent 1-2 mm along the whole wall, and the structure is nearly 30 years old, so I assume it's not moving much. How would you recommend bonding the new tile to the floor? Would simply spanning the gap with an underlayment like Ditra be okay (I was planning to put ditra under the tiles anyway), or should I consider spanning the gap with an expansion joint like Dilex BWS? Thanks in advance for any guidance and thanks especially for all your work supporting DIYer's like me!
Good video! Do I have to use pro-va uncoupling membrane if my house was built 12 years ago. The floor is concrete, and I want to put tile (before it had carpet)
Hi Lisa, this is an option. we used it to help reduce the height difference from the subfloor install in the adjacent rooms. If you want a simpler product for crack isolation, which in my opinion is well worth the effort, then use the Mapei product. Just check with the local dealer and ask for crack isolation membrane. It is a roll on just like paint. and works wonderful.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hello I have a few Qs, the white pieces are sold separatedly or do I have to buy a new kit , I have a 4 stories each one with 1200 Sq Ft floor to be install and need to know the right amount of kits and additional pieces thanks in advance
The coin trick may not have worked because you tested it on the first tile and the edge of the tile closest to the wall may have been high. Creating a slope downward where the 2 tiles meet. the lippage is small but you didn't quite guaranty that the tile was level. So to exaggerate things you may have created a V at the joint.
If the slab is concrete, why use the orange membrane? As a vapor barrier? Mapei has primer/cementitious product as vapor barrier. Thanks, great system/video.
I used it to help raise the finished surface height. Thus way it made a very small transition to the laminate floor on a basement subfloor system. cheers!
Jeff I have a question, I'm going to start to finish my basement soon. I'm going to use Drylock on my walls first then use rigid foam board for insulation. Does that sound ok to do?
If you have a block foundation it is a good idea, but make sure you have proper slope and drainage outside before you begin! Ridgid foam is good for R5 per inch just try to keep a small airspace so that the walls can breathe in case some water works its way through. You don't want to get that musty smell down the road. And check your building code for insulation in your area. If you under insulate your walls you will get frost and then like I said musty!!!
At this point you need to contact them directly. Don't be surprised to see them in stores soon. The market will definitely make room for this product on the shelf as it is superior to other wedge systems available to date. This is just the opinion of a guy who got a free box. And I still love it !!!!!
online at tilelevelingsystems.shop/, also on ebay and Amazon - just type Peygran. If you need any assistance please constact us directly at info@peygranlevelingsystem.com. Thank you.
I know this is a stupid question, but here goes: when using this system, did you find that the thickness of the mud had any effect on the leveling of the tiles; or did the wedges by-and-large take care of any leveling issues?
one of my good buddies is a tile guy and I give him a hand some nights and weekends.. he uses the raimondi system and I don't care how much you mess with it you still will have some height differences.. not much but it never comes out 100% perfect.. lol
I tried the coin trick not realizing that the floor actually has a bow due to the concrete pouring process. It would never work unless the substrate is level as well.
@Home RenoVision DIY , People in comments criticize all things related to clip systems, and it amazes me how they blame the clips, instead of addressing all the procedures necessary to start out with as flat a surface as an acceptable tolerance, and to correct subfloor where necessary before you begin. The clips are for adjusting final millimeters of lippage, not meant to correct all other imperfections with subfloors. Install your clips and still double check with your spirit levels or re-do it again and again ( at your cost ) until you understand what customer satisfaction means. Hi-Rise inspectors or homeowner can easily put big X's and you will have accomplished nothing with all your speed tile tricks and shortcuts. D.I.Y. or seasoned pro, the idea is to keep the lippage very far and away removed from your work. No call backs equal better profit margins. (IMHO)
We have used all kinds of these different types of clip systems , peygran is by far best clip system in our opinion , the break out is real smooth the next day
They look a little flimsy imo, not far off of the qep one HD use to sell which were lousy. The raimondi clips are way more firm and you can actually hear them ratcheting and not bending over like these seem to do...
There was no removal on this job. It was new construction in an unfinished basement. I will show demo tricks in the future though. great idea. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We really appreciate hearing from our viewers.
Home RenoVision DIY , I'm sure he was referring to the removal of the break out pieces. Smack it side ways with rubber mallet/ foot, etc. :•) I enjoy your vids as well. One question was the use of one wedge going in one way, yet on the same side , placing the other wedge in the opposite direction?? ( I thought that was what caused the quarter to bump-jump like that 🤔).
Home Reno Vision DIY ....just wondering how do these compare to the T-lock system... and can you stand on freshly set tiles?? Like the T-lock says you can.??
Jeff, did you check the flatness of the substrate and factor that in any way when you're planning your tile layout? I couldn't find any videos in which you even mention this. In fact, it looks like that all professional tile setters on youtube just lay large format tiles on a substrate without regard to how flat the floor is. I have not seen one youtube video in which the tile setter uses a leveling compound to level the floor first. (The only youtube videos that demonstrates leveling compound are from the manufacturers of the leveling compound.) This just seem very surprising to me as I certainly would not be surprised if there's at least 1/2 inch difference between low and high points in many floor substrate. Is it just common knowledge among tile setters that you would be able to get a tile floor level regardless of the substrate just by varying the thickness of the thinset (through tile application pressure) as you go along? However, I do see tile setters on youtube shim out supporting studs behind wall board substrates that will be tiled, to make sure the wall is flat. Why is there this apparent asymmetry between the flatness requirement of a wall vs a floor, for tile setting consideration?
No! in a basement there is always a little slope. this small variance is normal and it is best practice to just use the leveling clips to create good joints and follow the natural curve of the floor. Leveling compound for a whole basement will cost you a thousand dollars and in the end you will not be able to tell the difference in most situations.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Didn't know that leveling compound could be that expensive. Maybe that's why I never seen any tile setters on youtube use it. But they occasionally shim out studs in open walls because it's economically viable, unlike floor flattening.
Best to mud those square holes in of any membranes first, before setting. Makes for much stronger bond and you can actually see the chalk lines. I don't think you've been doing this very long, as no amount of money would I set without my kneepads on. Even on that rubber membrane. If you've been doing it 10+ years, you wouldn't either. Just thinking about it is painfullll.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thats not how it works. It never gets easier to be on your knees for long periods of time. only harder. the pain. Even with kneepads my knees will start to throb after 10 hours straight or really long week. and im 30yo
The purpose is to keep the tiles from ever cracking and to raise the finished floor height so that a regular transition can be used at the laminate flooring on subfloor in the other part of the basement.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you for the great content! It has helped me out a lot with my bathroom Reno. I watched your video on how to install a shower pan. I installed a 3'x4' dreamline shower pan and its nice and sturdy and level! I am getting a tiny bit of sand "crunch" sound from the entrance of the shower pan. I don't think it's a huge issue? I still have to install the final wall to make it an actual "concave" shower. I'm hoping once I screw the base into the final wall that it will get rid of the issue..Any thoughts or recommendations?
I don't like them every other clip I have use the next day I can just kick them off , these ones not so much you almost need to use pliers and yank them off which is very time consuming. Only great thing about them is they don't stay stuck in the thinset and break halfway but other than that there nothing special
with all due respect ,have you heard the words, convex concave !?usually we use the word Warp, like in this situation ,you put a lot of pressure and does not align perfectly because the tile it's Warp does not exist perfect tiles made by men in a large quantity. Besides that, you don't check the right way with that coin .Marble, Natural Stone, Granite tiles made from cutting the slab, they are not the same in price and quality with cheap tiles baked in oven
you used a leveling system and still leveled by hand whats the point , using leveling clips doesnt help you become a better tile setter ,its like running your kid bike with training wheels , set free hand and youll become a master
The coin test doesn't work well on a poured concrete floor. The reason for the leveling system is to help keep lipage under 1/32 of an inch. The system did that. It just isn't the right test is all.
Brian needs to cry us a river. he will never make it as a diy'er or a contractor. Brian - go back an listen to the video again. in any business, including building rockets for NASA, there is always room for give and take, with respect to 100% = 1. great video. i'm using these damn clips. bad ass!! haha
Or good for people who want things perfect. Be honest Eduardo your free hand installation would never come close to a job done with a good clip system and you know it.
You are by miles the best guy on YT .
I've laid around 500 sq feet of tile at home with the Peygran system, all at 1/16". I've done walls and floors and I've had great results. Preparing flat surfaces before tile is always time well spent, and it's no different with this system, or it ends up lifting the tiles to compensate and potentially creating voids. Good to see every tile being back-buttered (or burned) and that a membrane is used under the tiles. However, the thinset lines should be running in the direction of the short side (easier to collapse the ridges) and Peygran also recommend tapping the tiles with a rubber mallet after setting to release any tension. I think I've worked my way through 1,500 spacers by now but still working with the original 200 wedges. The tiling pattern determines how many spacers/wedges are needed, but an offset pattern consumes a ton of them. Even so, 200 wedges on a 12 x 24 tile got 80 square feet laid.
Another note, is that you must lay the area in one go, as well as the edges. If the thinset isn't moist, the system can't level so leaving the edges until the next day doesn't work as that edge is immovable. I've also learned to keep the spacers near the joins, so with a third-offset like here, I would have install 4 spacers on each long edge, two at the extremes but two around the adjoining intersection to minimize lippage.
In Canada, I get my refills from Amazon.
Thank you. I have watched several videos. Looking to become a general contractor. You seemed very knowledgeable especially with the ansi specs
Great Vid. I am remodeling my bathroom and your channel has been entertaining and informative. Your video on grouting mistake was shocking and timely, I took the super-duper grout back to Floor and Decor for the old-fashioned product that afforded a DYI more time to clean the tile. Thanks for the heads up.
how about the final stage of breaking off the clips?
I`m not doing any house renovation right now but I`m hooked onto your videos and they are very well explained keep it up thanks.
Jeff , thank you, im using this type of product more often,
I have been doing a number of home improvement projects and we're about to tackle our bathroom, I'm definitely going to try these. Perfectly timed video! And using your other videos for bathroom reno for reference. Thanks for such awesome videos! Keep them coming!!
Thank you Juliet, you will love the peygran system
Hi, is there a video of how to fix tiles preventing from popping out or crack up due to expansion?
Hey Jeff. Just wondering what the orange material under the tiles?? Thanks
Jeff, thank you very much for a great review. We really appreciate it.
Thanks Peygran, I will definitely be using your product in the future.
Awesome... Was going to use the typical cross style... Teaching myself how to tile my bathroom today and will use this system to avoid lippage!
I'm getting ready to do a kitchen and bathroom with this product timely video since it will be my first time using it.
Might I suggest using at least porcelain on the floor if you are going to install the cabinets over the tile.Remember 40 year kitchen 40 year floor.
Perfect exactly the plan I was going with.
Informative as always! I haven't seen all of your videos, but have you done or could you do one soon about installing pre-hung doors and/or proper installation of the trim around them.
I have a video in prehung door installation. We have a new finishing trim video coming soon.
Does this system work on wall tile??
The only issue I had when using this system is that when you tightened the wedges, the grout lines spread apart thus giving me inconsistent grout lines. I tried the wedges both ways too. You would think it would force tight grout lines, but it didnt. Worked like a charm eliminating lippage. I used12x24 porcelain tiles on my shower walls.
You may have been over tightening!
The best and awesome :)
Thanks for watching!
I was wondering I watched a lot of your videos and I was wondering have you done a complete video from subfloor prep to cement board than straight to tiling?
Doing a floor tile nx week, all your videos are informative
Enjoy your project. Cheers!
I watched this 15x after my first half-assed tile job. I'm using these on my upstairs solarium.... Can the 1/16th work with non-rectified 12x24" tiles?
What gap is best for Carrera Marble 3x6 tiles?
I like that the clips didn't break. How difficult was it to remove them the next day? Also did you have to dig into the joint when thinset prevented all of the clip from fully detaching?
Hi David, the clips removed extremely well the next day. They were crazy strong vertically but had a great weak spot for the horizontal force needed to break them off. I didn't have any pieces left behind after 200 sq feet of that product which meant no digging and no damage to the tile.
Use pliers to hold the left over piece and pull straight up, it will break off no damage to the tile
@@jacekjankowski1311 dremel tool with a small ceramic bit is helpful if u have one on the job which i do
self levelling compound is only £14 a bag in UK and that does 2.5 square metres at 6mm depth. Takes 8 hours to set and you have a perfect level surface.
If the clips lift a tile that is a little bit too low, doesn't that lift the tile slightly clear of the tile adhesive?
Thanks for nice video. Can we use with tile size 12x12
No problem, very much the same approach. Cheers!
I kept hoping you would slide the quarter from the other direction to see if it still hit the lip of the opposite tile, which would invalidate the test. Also maybe putting a level on it just to see the edges as well? I have not used these yet, but going to try. It seems it will be much quicker because you can avoid a level in terms of verifying your lips, but I will still pop it quickly until which time I grow confident. It's not fun being type A...
the truth is to try to get perfection in a basement is a really difficult thing since the concrete is actually concave itself.
What’s the coverage of the starter kit & how do u calculate how many you’ll need for large or average format tiles?
around 100 sq ft with a 12 x 24.
Jeff, how do you safely remove the clips without damaging the finish of the tile? Any tips or tricks you can share?
just kick them off in the direction of the grout line. they have been manufactured with a weak spot so they come off quite easily. It is also a little theraputic. Cheers!
Also a rubber mallet if you get stubborn ones to remove. I use a white headed one that leaves no scuff marks.
Why we need this sheet under tiles ? Cannot we put tiles on concrete floor directly ? What is the benefit ?
the sheet protects from cracks in the concrete from transferring to the tile. It also makes it much easier to replace the tile one day. Cheers!
Hi, do you know if these will work with the raimondi wedges?
I doubt it. The raimondi wedges are much bigger and wouldn't fit in those clips. Raimondi clips look much sturdier then these imo
this system seems really handy, especially with great tiles, they keep unleveling by themselves as one puts them down :)
Was the tile being laid on a heated floor mat????? If not what was the underlayment you were using... Do you have any other techniques for laying tile on heated floor mats...Thx for your video..
Great question! You can lay tile on heated mats that are anchored directly to the floor with or without floor leveler. In this case I used the pro-va uncoupling membrane in order to protect the tile from potential cracking since this house was a new build and not done settling yet. It also helped to reduce the transition going to the dmx plus plywood floor with laminate finish.
Great work💯💯👊👊👊 when you dont use clip systems do you constantly use the level to check if the floor is going flat and leveled without seeing gaps under the level? Thanks in advance 💯🙏
I'd love to see a video on removing an existing small window and replacing with a bigger window or patio door!
That sounds like a great idea.
Very nice video. Can you comment on how the leveling systems don't create voids under the tile? It seems to me that when you put the wedge under stress it's going to push one tile tighter and lift the other one up ever so slightly. That void is a potential cracked tile down the road, right?
That's what I was wondering about. I haven't been able to find any info on it.
@@jonvanlandingham2538 I use them all the time,Topps ones. Never had a failure. What I would say is this bed he's using isn't deep enough. Use a deep notch,collapse ridges and back butter it works very very well.
When you put the wedge on the other side it will push that side level...
would a system like this be good for tiling a wall? My tiles are 4 x 16 inch subway tile so I'm not really sure if it will be enough surface area to use the wedges.
I'm replacing the tile in our entry way because all the tiles next to the wall had come loose. When I removed the loose tiles I found out that the cement slab that the floor is built on ends 3 inches from the wall and the last 3 inches of floor are on the foundation which supports the walls.
The original builder's solution to deal with possible movement along the joint was simply not to put thinset onto the wall foundation so the tiles along the edge were only partially supported, which, I assume is, why they all failed. The gap is a consistent 1-2 mm along the whole wall, and the structure is nearly 30 years old, so I assume it's not moving much.
How would you recommend bonding the new tile to the floor? Would simply spanning the gap with an underlayment like Ditra be okay (I was planning to put ditra under the tiles anyway), or should I consider spanning the gap with an expansion joint like Dilex BWS?
Thanks in advance for any guidance and thanks especially for all your work supporting DIYer's like me!
Good video! Do I have to use pro-va uncoupling membrane if my house was built 12 years ago. The floor is concrete, and I want to put tile (before it had carpet)
Hi Lisa, this is an option. we used it to help reduce the height difference from the subfloor install in the adjacent rooms. If you want a simpler product for crack isolation, which in my opinion is well worth the effort, then use the Mapei product. Just check with the local dealer and ask for crack isolation membrane. It is a roll on just like paint. and works wonderful.
Thank you for sharing the video. How many wedges came in the entire package?
enough for 100 sq ft
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hello I have a few Qs, the white pieces are sold separatedly or do I have to buy a new kit , I have a 4 stories each one with 1200 Sq Ft floor to be install and need to know the right amount of kits and additional pieces thanks in advance
The coin trick may not have worked because you tested it on the first tile and the edge of the tile closest to the wall may have been high. Creating a slope downward where the 2 tiles meet. the lippage is small but you didn't quite guaranty that the tile was level. So to exaggerate things you may have created a V at the joint.
If the slab is concrete, why use the orange membrane? As a vapor barrier? Mapei has primer/cementitious product as vapor barrier. Thanks, great system/video.
I used it to help raise the finished surface height. Thus way it made a very small transition to the laminate floor on a basement subfloor system. cheers!
Do I have to use subflooring in every job?
Yes, no and Maybe. just a little vague in the question. perhaps a more focused question so that I can help. Cheers!
I'm very excited about this product!! I'm a DIY
Aren't we all! enjoy it . it makes life and the final result so much better.
Would this be good for first timers
It is as simple as what you see here. The trick is working clean.
Jeff I have a question, I'm going to start to finish my basement soon. I'm going to use Drylock on my walls first then use rigid foam board for insulation. Does that sound ok to do?
If you have a block foundation it is a good idea, but make sure you have proper slope and drainage outside before you begin!
Ridgid foam is good for R5 per inch just try to keep a small airspace so that the walls can breathe in case some water works its way through. You don't want to get that musty smell down the road. And check your building code for insulation in your area. If you under insulate your walls you will get frost and then like I said musty!!!
Thank you for the advice Jeff
where can you buy this peygran system? keep up the great videos!
At this point you need to contact them directly. Don't be surprised to see them in stores soon. The market will definitely make room for this product on the shelf as it is superior to other wedge systems available to date. This is just the opinion of a guy who got a free box. And I still love it !!!!!
online at tilelevelingsystems.shop/, also on ebay and Amazon - just type Peygran.
If you need any assistance please constact us directly at info@peygranlevelingsystem.com. Thank you.
I got a REALLY great deal on eBay.
Very helpful. Wonder the cost of the clip set for a 170 square foot job, 12x24 tiles?
around 40 bucks. and worth it.
I know this is a stupid question, but here goes: when using this system, did you find that the thickness of the mud had any effect on the leveling of the tiles; or did the wedges by-and-large take care of any leveling issues?
the wedges work awesome. Cheers!
Do I still put grout if I use the leveling system?sorry first timer.
Yes. You still use grout between the tiles.
anyone know what the orange "underlay" is? is it adhered to the concrete/wooden subfloor,?
we use a modified cement and stick it to the concrete, this particular uncoupling membrane is not ditra.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY is it plastic, ? whats it called?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY ditra, i assume?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY is it used on concrete and or timber based subfloors? i.e bathrooms upstairs.
Perfect Level Master has always been my choice of levelling system. This may be a cheaper alternative.
awesome video as usual... just wish you show us the finish product
You can see it in the project video coming out soon.
Another good one. Thanks.
Thanks Larry!
good info about the uneven tiles it happens
That is Life. We just try to make the best of it.
Great video
Have you done any videos on leveling a shower wall frame before installing backer board for tile? Thanks for sharing your experience.☺
Grab a laser level and a few pieces of wood to sister to the old studs to build a new wall. It is that easy.
Thanks for the info
Is it faster using a leveling system than trying to free hand and trying to make them perfect?
Not just faster but guaranteed to not have lipage.
They are amaizing like using the. .but it rather preffer drypack on floors and you can go way faster free hand
one of my good buddies is a tile guy and I give him a hand some nights and weekends.. he uses the raimondi system and I don't care how much you mess with it you still will have some height differences.. not much but it never comes out 100% perfect.. lol
I tried the coin trick not realizing that the floor actually has a bow due to the concrete pouring process. It would never work unless the substrate is level as well.
@Home RenoVision DIY ,
People in comments criticize all things related to clip systems, and it amazes me how they blame the clips, instead of addressing all the procedures necessary to start out with as flat a surface as an acceptable tolerance, and to correct subfloor where necessary before you begin.
The clips are for adjusting final millimeters of lippage, not meant to correct all other imperfections with subfloors.
Install your clips and still double check with your spirit levels or re-do it again and again ( at your cost ) until you understand what customer satisfaction means. Hi-Rise inspectors or homeowner can easily put big X's and you will have accomplished nothing with all your speed tile tricks and shortcuts.
D.I.Y. or seasoned pro, the idea is to keep the lippage very far and away removed from your work. No call backs equal better profit margins. (IMHO)
both wedges should be in the same direction in order to make both tiles flat my sir
Due to length and with of tiles. There can be a slight bow in each of the tiles. I got that info from one of the manufactures demo videos.
Its really hard to compensate tiles bows.
We have used all kinds of these different types of clip systems , peygran is by far best clip system in our opinion , the break out is real smooth the next day
They look a little flimsy imo, not far off of the qep one HD use to sell which were lousy. The raimondi clips are way more firm and you can actually hear them ratcheting and not bending over like these seem to do...
You should have shown use the removal portion!!
There was no removal on this job. It was new construction in an unfinished basement. I will show demo tricks in the future though. great idea. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We really appreciate hearing from our viewers.
Home RenoVision DIY ,
I'm sure he was referring to the removal of the break out pieces. Smack it side ways with rubber mallet/ foot, etc.
:•)
I enjoy your vids as well.
One question was the use of one wedge going in one way, yet on the same side , placing the other wedge in the opposite direction??
( I thought that was what caused the quarter to bump-jump like that 🤔).
Removal is easy but be prepared to use the grinder on some left plastic
Did you become a distributor?
Not yet A little busy. We are building a shopify channel right now so will update you with the progress.
Ya didn't show how to take them out...lol.. they seem to be better than the T-lock... what do you think.??
Just kick them loose like any other clip system
Dodn't forget to subscribe to the channel
Lol..thanks for the fast reply
I try to respond to every comment in the mornings and evenings. This way if anyone needs help with something they can count on my being there.
Home Reno Vision DIY ....just wondering how do these compare to the T-lock system... and can you stand on freshly set tiles?? Like the T-lock says you can.??
Did you use a standardized and calibrated Toonie? Everyone knows you need to use a Loonie.
I saw you "back butter" your tile before putting it down. And I have seen other videos do without. What's the best practice?
When using a leveling system you always back butter.
hi Jeff how i can contact you?
jeffrey@ottawadesignandbuild.com
What size of Trall were you using 1/2 inch
If its like most others with a wedge, wedges should all be facing same direction.
Great work thank you
Do you still have to back butter the tiles?
only if they are large.
Jeff, did you check the flatness of the substrate and factor that in any way when you're planning your tile layout? I couldn't find any videos in which you even mention this. In fact, it looks like that all professional tile setters on youtube just lay large format tiles on a substrate without regard to how flat the floor is. I have not seen one youtube video in which the tile setter uses a leveling compound to level the floor first. (The only youtube videos that demonstrates leveling compound are from the manufacturers of the leveling compound.) This just seem very surprising to me as I certainly would not be surprised if there's at least 1/2 inch difference between low and high points in many floor substrate. Is it just common knowledge among tile setters that you would be able to get a tile floor level regardless of the substrate just by varying the thickness of the thinset (through tile application pressure) as you go along? However, I do see tile setters on youtube shim out supporting studs behind wall board substrates that will be tiled, to make sure the wall is flat. Why is there this apparent asymmetry between the flatness requirement of a wall vs a floor, for tile setting consideration?
No! in a basement there is always a little slope. this small variance is normal and it is best practice to just use the leveling clips to create good joints and follow the natural curve of the floor. Leveling compound for a whole basement will cost you a thousand dollars and in the end you will not be able to tell the difference in most situations.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Didn't know that leveling compound could be that expensive. Maybe that's why I never seen any tile setters on youtube use it. But they occasionally shim out studs in open walls because it's economically viable, unlike floor flattening.
How much was the 4 foot level in the thumbnail? Haha just kidding, nice work
If your floor is level you would have any problems setting tile
That is very hard to find unless you use self leveler. On large tile I would still suggest the clips. Cheers!
Best to mud those square holes in of any membranes first, before setting. Makes for much stronger bond and you can actually see the chalk lines. I don't think you've been doing this very long, as no amount of money would I set without my kneepads on. Even on that rubber membrane. If you've been doing it 10+ years, you wouldn't either. Just thinking about it is painfullll.
Hi Blake, I have been doing this long enough that my knees are made of steel. I find it faster to fill the squares and tile all in one step. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thats not how it works. It never gets easier to be on your knees for long periods of time. only harder. the pain. Even with kneepads my knees will start to throb after 10 hours straight or really long week. and im 30yo
This is one of the harder options
so good I live you
weproduse this tile leveling system in toronto I B Tools
Hey Slava, send me your product and I can take a look.
i dont like that red material under the tiles.... uses more mud to fill it in
The purpose is to keep the tiles from ever cracking and to raise the finished floor height so that a regular transition can be used at the laminate flooring on subfloor in the other part of the basement.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY does it provide insulation value?
I like your carefree idgaf attitude, lol. Similar disposition here.
Wow he was trim here
Home RenoVision DIY
is this still your preferred tile leveling system? Have you tried Rigid level max?
I have tried a dozen. They all work pretty much the same. systems with the tool to tighten work best!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you for the great content! It has helped me out a lot with my bathroom Reno. I watched your video on how to install a shower pan. I installed a 3'x4' dreamline shower pan and its nice and sturdy and level! I am getting a tiny bit of sand "crunch" sound from the entrance of the shower pan. I don't think it's a huge issue? I still have to install the final wall to make it an actual "concave" shower. I'm hoping once I screw the base into the final wall that it will get rid of the issue..Any thoughts or recommendations?
at the wall you high that why i no see level
Using the coin is unfair. The tile edges are most likely slightly rounded or tapered.
I have seen it on t.v. and was wondering how it would perform. Concrete is just not a good place for this demonstration.
I don't like them every other clip I have use the next day I can just kick them off , these ones not so much you almost need to use pliers and yank them off which is very time consuming. Only great thing about them is they don't stay stuck in the thinset and break halfway but other than that there nothing special
что это за оранжевые маты?
Thanks for commenting!
you're running the trowel the wrong way. It needs to run the shortest distance of the tile for air to escape to achieve the best possible adhesion.
I always think its cute when I hear this. Tell me which way should I run the trowel on a 24 x 24 tile.
Lol
Okay...from all the vid I have seen to date, you are doing the trowel notches opposite of what's needed 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Wow so expensive. There others that are cheaper.
you get what you pay for. Cheers!
Jeff Ross's younger brother.
Cheers!
Slight discrepancy in a tile can cause that you knob no need to tighten them so much.
I like the effort.. this Clips do suck tho.
Void creators.
Thanks for watching.
with all due respect ,have you heard the words, convex concave !?usually we use the word Warp, like in this situation ,you put a lot of pressure and does not align perfectly because the tile it's Warp does not exist perfect tiles made by men in a large quantity. Besides that, you don't check the right way with that coin .Marble, Natural Stone, Granite tiles made from cutting the slab, they are not the same in price and quality with cheap tiles baked in oven
Cement? Your clearly not a tile man!!! Cement smh!!!!
Jonathan Warren do you need to use detra on a cement floor
Veterans don’t use wedges..
lol, I have had tile sets say the exact opposite. if you don't use wedges your not a pro. I
Home RenoVision DIY Well wedges are a relatively new product. I’m a union tile setter and the journeymen old timers still don’t use them.
you used a leveling system and still leveled by hand whats the point , using leveling clips doesnt help you become a better tile setter ,its like running your kid bike with training wheels , set free hand and youll become a master
Well that went well....NOT !
Care to elaborate!
I thought the whole point was to lay the tiles level with each other. The coin test failed every time !
The coin test doesn't work well on a poured concrete floor. The reason for the leveling system is to help keep lipage under 1/32 of an inch. The system did that. It just isn't the right test is all.
Brian needs to cry us a river. he will never make it as a diy'er or a contractor. Brian - go back an listen to the video again. in any business, including building rockets for NASA, there is always room for give and take, with respect to 100% = 1.
great video. i'm using these damn clips. bad ass!! haha
Home RenoVision DIY what about using a bigger trowel so you have more adhesive to push the tiles to same level?
Amateur..first timer leveling
A lot of fucking about
Tile is slow and messy sometimes. But the end result is what you are after regardless of the process.
What a waist of time and money....good for beginners and do it yourself!!
Or good for people who want things perfect. Be honest Eduardo your free hand installation would never come close to a job done with a good clip system and you know it.