Just done the exact same changes on my RS last month, VForce + VHSB 34 LD One important thing, if you look closely to the Vforce, the difusser (that you can extract) it's not centered. This is due in reality this vforce are for the ktm 125 that has the intake manifold not centered. If you look through the manifold to the reeds, you'll see some walls wasting your flow. What I've done being carefully, it's to adjust the diffuser to match the manifold. I recommend it 100%, the engine gets some more performance. If you want photos or you don't understand me, get in contact with me, I'll send you pics to show it! By the way, congrats on the channel, very clean and entertainment! Keep going man!
Hi Hugo. Thank you for bringing this to my attention👍 I did align the manifold with the KTM reeds. My apologies for not showing the process in detail. I think the reeds and carb area a great upgrade to these bike. It really unlocks the power. Thanks for your comment. I hope to release a 34mm carb tuning video soon👍
Saya dari Indonesia memiliki motor 2T dari Kawasaki namanya Ninja 150 RR berkapasitas 150cc. Dan saya kagum dengan Aprilia RS 125 karena desainnya sangat sporty dengan sasis alumunium nya dan secara keseluruhan terlihat seperti sepeda motor besar 600-1000cc. Namun di negara saya sepeda motor yang anda miliki sangat jarang sekali orang yang memiliki nya dan harga nya sangat mahal. Sukses terus untuk anda bro.. 👍🏻 ajak saya jalan jalan di negaramu dengan menonton video anda yang lainnya. Salam kenal dari Indonesia 🇮🇩
Hi Tom! I have an RS 125 from 2003. It had a 150cc cylinder on it, with this carb. The old man who sold it said, I should run the bike on 1:30 oil mixture, the pump is filled up with oil and running in loop, but it isn't connected. I went to my mechanic, he made the oil pump working again. Then the 150cc race setup melted the piston on the highway. We think that if we would use the bike with 1:30 in the fuel tank it would have gone 10.000kilometers more. Our mechanic replaced the cylinder and piston to an original 125cc setup, but didn't touched the carb. The exhaust valve is always open by the original "covering block", and now the bike doesn't rev correctly. It hasn't got any torque on low rpm of course, but when I accelerate, it has a big "hole" at 6500-7000rpm, and it doesn't rev every time. In 1st gear, it stays at 6500 for a little time, then revs a fckin big up to 11000, and I shift up and up and it runs extremely well. But in 2nd gear, it's not a little drop, it won't ever rev up, same as every upper gear. I can ride it, when I drop the rev below 7000 I shift back, but with the 150cc it hadn't got any issues, same always open exhaust valve, ran low torque at low rpm, but started to pull at 7000, and accelerated a huge. Now it's not perfect to say easily. Many owners said, that the carb hasn't got the correct configuration inside. Can it be the problem, and have you got any suggestions for me how to make it myself?
Hello. Thank you for your message. 2 things: I have just released a tuning video on this carb. My settings are in the description of the video and there may be some useful content there for you. Secondly, I’d be trying to fix the Rave valve if it isn’t operating👍 Thanks again Tom
We had the K57 needle in the 2. pos, we lowered it to the 1. and it's much better, but still have the stuttering problem. Now I see that I can start the tuning, it's going forward without our "mechanic". I read in the topic, I ended up at the K21 needle and a smaller main jet. It was really good to hear that I'm on the right way again, and there were many helpful things in the tuning video. I order the parts, and set up the carb as yours, hope it will be as powerful. Thank you! P.S. the Rave needs a magnet, and I have to exactly hunt one of them working. On the other side of the Earth, the market is really dirty, but as soon as I find a working magnet I'll put the Rave together, until that I have to ride with no torque at low rpm.
Man you helped me so much, thank you so much, I have so many problems with carb and your video helped me to make normal work of my Sx with polini. I also make videos but yours are the best, explained everything. All the best !
@@tomdidit4216 the b36 pilot jet is perfect though you have that bang on , you should try the top needle notch though (leanest) it is recommended for arrow race system on the k57 needle which is the standard needle
Thanks for your comment. It a big help! Its true I have a 150 main jet at the moment. This was temporarily used to help locate the cause of the extremely rich condition. I need to do some all round final tuning including a dozen plug chops. I will defiantly increase the jet size to a safer 160 then. Thanks again for the continued support and advice👍 Cheers pal
Hi mate can you help me I’ve got a new 34 mm carb and now the settings is mess up buy a bike mechanic can you help me it splatters between 7-8000 revs it’s got 160 main jet in and a k57 needle many thanks
Hi Jason. My latest video may help. I changed the needle and the problem went away. This may help you, but proceed with caution as my fix leans the mixture. Cheers To
greetings, I have a Dellorto VHSB 34LD, I wanted to buy it for a long time. There is a problem with the installation on Aprilia rs 125 2006. There is no vacuum hose connection on the carburetor. what to do, it seems to me that the engine does not get fuel without that connection. I would appreciate the help
Hey Tom welcome in 34 carb club ;) for me 155 and 40 jet is great top position for needle and 17x42 is great for me by the way i test it its less nervous but i like :)
Thanks for your comment and sharing your carb settings. It’s interesting to learn the different settings we all have. I do need to tune my 34mm carb properly, but probably in another video. 17x42 is good. Does it pull strong?
@@tomdidit4216 it s pull less than 16x40 but with 16x40 i have feeling missing a gear like the 6gear is the 5gear now with 17x42 it s better 80kmh 5gear 6000rpm
Greetings Norman. My apologies for the late response. Noted below are the “standard” settings that were in the carb at the time of making the video. These will serve as a good starting point for tuning. B36 - pilot jet 160 - main jet K57 - needle, highest clip position. (Leanest) Unfortunately these setting were tested and the bike was not running very well (very rich). I am experimenting with different jets and needles that will lean out the mixture. There is massive delays my end with the delivery of carb parts. This is holding up my next video on tuning👍👍
@@tomdidit4216 ok fine. Then I'm eagerly waiting for the next video and hope it helps me with my vote. For me it also runs too rich and that already in the lower or partial load range
Thank you for your patience Norman. Must admit, I am getting a little frustrated with these long delivery times as it is also holding up other projects.👍
🤔 I’m honestly not sure if the 38mm is too big? I know there is such a thing as ‘over carbing’. This is when the carb body is too big for the engine to draw fast flowing turbulent air through the Venturi of the carb. Many websites indicate that 34mm was used on the Aprilia race bikes and other derestricted models. This suggests that 34mm body with good jetting would be sufficient for most power. Hope my opinion helps👍 Cheers Tom
Have you considered doing a Smartcarb upgrade? The advantages claimed in their marketing seem like just what the RS 125 needs, and I see Pochi (Japanese RS 125 youtuber) seem to have good results with them. Would love to see a video where you put your investigative- and production skills to work on installing and tuning one.
Hi Tom, my Aprilia rs 125 had its engine completely repaired but I can't get it to work 😐. It has 100psi of pressure in the cylinder, Iridium spark plug, I have already cleaned the carburetor about 3 times but the most I can do is make it work for +- 5 seconds (it starts to smoke a lot and then turns off) It only works again when I clean the spark plug and I've already had to remove fuel from the crankshaft. I've exhausted all possibilities and I don't know what it could be, help me!!🥲
hi mate.. can you help me ?? i have a stock Aprillia sx125 with rotax 122 completely stock.. Its very weak can you tell me what to do to make it full power? i already order a Gianneli exhaust
Hi Lupo. Thanks for your comment. You can use any 3mm internal diameter hose that is fuel rated. If the hose is not rated to carry fuel then it may get brittle and crack (bad news). Parts should be easily accessible online at various outlets👍 Cheers Tom
good tom did it, the air screw of the dellorto 34 vhsb ld regulates only the air or air and gasoline? How many turns do you have it open? my configuration is as it comes back except the needle that is in the first position if it doesn't rattle me a lot "gurgles" in the middle. : high 160, low 40, first position needle since in the second I do very badly in low, medium. My question is if I put 36 low gum, will I be able to put the abuja in the second position? I hope you can help me, thanks!
Hi Joel. Thanks for your comment. The air screw on this carb regulates the air on the pilot circuit. I have the air screw 2 turns out. My needle position is on the top clip but I have a bit of a stutter around the middle RPM. I’m currently experimenting with jetting on the new 34mm carb to see what is working best. Unfortunately I can’t answer your questions with certainty as carb tuning is specific to each bike, in each climate. My suggestion to you is carefully try the new settings and see how you go. Cheers Tom.
good tom did it, I have the same bike as you, I put the dellorto 34 vhsb ld on it. the configuration is as follows. needle k57 2 position from above (poorest position) low jet 40, high jet 160. It is as good as default since it is new. In the middle in neutral I open a quarter of gas more or less and it makes a gurgling sound that does not go up in revolutions. Running also until I open more gas. I haven't tried much on highs because I'm filming, but it doesn't turn up as furiously as before with the 28 cd vhst dellorto. I live in Spain, Tarragona. 68 meters high sea level, now we are in summer about 30 and few degrees and quite humid. I think the bike is running fat (a lot of gasoline) and I have tried the k57 needle in the first position (poorest) but it keeps making me gurgle in the middle that I was telling you about. Perhaps I would have to change the needle for one that would allow me to tune more? In that case what number would it be? When I start the motorcycle cold, "the spark plug communicates" I have to remove it and clean it. I hope you can help me, thank you very much.
Just out of curiosity, how come you chose this carb over a more modern flatslide like the TM of pwk series found on modern motocross bikes? Was it price, ease of fitment etc?
Hi Mozer. Good question. I believe this style of 34mm Dellorto carb came on the original (older) derestricted bikes. Also Rotax use this on race engines. This carb also has the 2 stroke oil delivery opening. I guess it just suits the engine👍 Thanks for your comment Tom
Where can i get the jets that you have in the video? And are they universal so they fit all Dell'orto carbs? If not, will they fit the 28 vhst and 34 vhsb interchangeably?
Hi Thanks for your comment. All carb parts were purchased from EuroBrit. The link to their site is in the video description👍 I think the jets are interchangeable between the VHSB and the PHBH, however the carbs are physically different sizes (28 & 34mm) and may not suit the air/fuel mixtures for each. Not sure about the VHST model sorry as I’ve never worked on one. Cheers Tom
Hi Mitre. Thank you for your comment. Depending on your model, I believe 11,000 is around the RPM limiter, which is probably electronically controlled? Sorry this may not be useful however I’m honestly not qualified to advise on increasing the RPM👍 Cheers Tom
Hi Markey. My apologies for the late response. To answer your question, I’m not sure yet as I am still to do final tuning. Terrible weather here in Australia at the moment, so I can’t get the bike out. Internet sources suggest a 160 main jet is a good place to start. Then plug chop, plug chop, plug chop👍 Cheers Tom
Your videos rock! I just bought a brand new 2009 rs125 here in the US. They were not street legal and once and a while a new one pops up that's been at a dealership that they figure to sell. I'll be doing this upgrade too, however, do you reconnect the choke cable? If so could that be in an upcoming video if you make another about carb tuning/adjusting?
MrBurgandy Thanks for watching and leaving a comments. Good to hear your story and you have managed to buy and RS125. They and fun bike and the carb upgrade is one of the best mods for this bike… My choke cable is disconnected because it now operates from a small plastic lever. I have to say my setup is not perfect but works fine. I believe you can buy different cable connection kits from PJME for this carb so that the existing cable will fit👍 Good luck👍 Cheers Tom
hi tom i recently purchased a vforce 3 for my rs now im havin problems the bike opens up great but at the lights or pulling of it just dies have you got any suggestions for me tom you seem to know alot about the rs cheers tom for any help given.... ride safe.
Hello Assuming the VF3 reeds are on tip top condition, you may need to adjust the carb settings. When I installed my VF3 reeds, It caused a rich condition as it was letting far too much fuel through. Keeping in mind that the VF3 reeds were designed to work on a KTM dirt bike (wide open throttle) they provide far better air flow than the original Rotax reeds. This can lead to more fuel entering the cylinder. Try tinkering with the carb settings. I’d try the needle settings first as it is often the quickest and easiest thing to adjust and can indicate the cause of the “spluttering at the lights” Good luck and thanks for your message👍
@@tomdidit4216 hi tom just went to pick the bike up the guys i use have sorted the vforce 3 reeds out for me. how can you tell if its running rich i know you gota look at the spark plug what colour should i be looking for? cheers tom and thanks for the help...
hi Tom thanks for the info what speed you had out of your rs? mine tops 95mph had it on a dyno 28bhp. and a whoppin 106mph but theres no weight on the bike im just under 12 stone so that could affect performance. im not a youngster im in my early 40's. love the rs why bother getting a bigger bike rs just as good. imo. anyways cheers tom thanks mate.
Hello there. Good to hear your bike is running well! I’m not sure about the top speed of my bike. I would assume it would be around 80 mph because I have the 16-40 sprocket setup. However, I am thinking of changing back to the original sprockets as the 34mm carb has provided more power and I now run out of gears easier. Let’s see.
Just watched your video, believe you emailed me about your float issue. Anyway a few pointers. You have the wrong type of carb top that is why you had the modify the throttle cable. With the correct top the std cable fits at works. The choke, you can use the choke set up from your 28 and still keep the cable operated choke. Hope this helps
Greetings Paul. Thank you for your comment. Yes this is correct. I did contact you guys regarding float parts etc. Thanks for letting me know there is another carb top that will fit this. I hope others see this comment and order the different top. I did check to see if the PHBH choke would fit, however it was a different physical size and thought it may not operate properly.. Anyway, I’m waiting on 2 smaller pilot jets and a new (leaner) needle such that I can start the fine tuning. FYI, with the current set up: B36 pilot and K57 needle, I have the 6,000rpm splutter. Fingers cross parts arrive soon.👍 Cheers
Hi there. I haven’t had the chance to test it yet. The jetting is off and I’m currently waiting on carb parts etc. I’ll be sure to film the tuning process once the bits and pieces arrive. Fyi, 150-160kph sounds about right for 17-40 setup and depending on your size. Mine is geared for acceleration not top speed👍👍
@@tomdidit4216 Well, i have a Italkit Racing cylinder with one ring pistion and a gianelli exhaust system, about 3K km after rebuilt. I was really expecting it to go faster but after rebuilding i found out it has a 11K rpm rev limiter. Also all the power ends below 10K. I think with an unlocked CDI it could hit 170 but can’t find any in my country. EDIT: Also im 100% sure my mixture is off.
Semi racing engine set up, so arrow challenge expansion chamber modified, titanium end can, extremely low squish clearance modified head, wossner racing forged piston twin ring, wossner conrod, 34mm flat slide dellorto, v force 3 reeds, ram air filter sponge filter (no air box) stage 2 modified cylinder ports , full power from factory bike so didn’t need to change ecu or power valve, max rpm Is just about 13000 with 17:40 standard gearing, I easily get 110+ mph every pull. A standard bike with arrow challenge 34mm carb and the hole drilled in the cdi/ ecu Assuming you have the correct ecu should rev to 12000-12500 and top speed with 17:40 should be 165-175kph depending on weight of rider , give or take 5kph due to conditions in weather, if you are far off this figure then you have bad compression/ and or bike is not jetted correctly :) compression should be atleast around 150 , personally I have 180 psi after 2800 miles on the top end , it’s just a case of good oil and regular servicing.
@@thesweeneyboys2974 Yeah as i said i need to get an unlocked dci/ecu, i have a 2nd gen so i think its different than drilling a hole. Then im gonna mess with the jettings. EDIT: I use motul 710 since i remember, don’t have the thing to measure compression tho.
friend I give you some good advice gum high 160 and lower gum 60 and most importantly the needle clip put on the second from the top counting if you have cylinder 125
Hi Yes lots of difference in the middle and top end. I think it is the best modification I have done to date. I will make a review video once my parts arrive👍 Cheers Tom
Hi two stroke. Thanks for your comment. I had to Google your message. Hope my response is correct… “why the exchange to 34mm?” The main body of the carb came with the bike. I had to order parts to make it work. There are mixed reviews on whether the 34mm is an upgrade or waste of money. Although the 34mm is not tuned, I can confirm a noticeable power increase on the top end👍 Cheers
@Paul Mickiewicz yes you are right. However for the last models (RM and RD), they another ECU which involved interference from a Piaggio and the technology from the manufacturer EFI Technology.
Hi Joel. My apologies I’m not sure what you mean by gum and abuja. My current needle position is 3 from top position. My main jet is currently 150, about to be changed to 155 or 160👍. Hope this is what you are after. I’m glad my videos help you pal. Cheers Tom
Just done the exact same changes on my RS last month, VForce + VHSB 34 LD
One important thing, if you look closely to the Vforce, the difusser (that you can extract) it's not centered. This is due in reality this vforce are for the ktm 125 that has the intake manifold not centered. If you look through the manifold to the reeds, you'll see some walls wasting your flow. What I've done being carefully, it's to adjust the diffuser to match the manifold. I recommend it 100%, the engine gets some more performance. If you want photos or you don't understand me, get in contact with me, I'll send you pics to show it!
By the way, congrats on the channel, very clean and entertainment! Keep going man!
Hi Hugo.
Thank you for bringing this to my attention👍
I did align the manifold with the KTM reeds. My apologies for not showing the process in detail.
I think the reeds and carb area a great upgrade to these bike. It really unlocks the power.
Thanks for your comment.
I hope to release a 34mm carb tuning video soon👍
@@tomdidit4216 I hope too :)
Omg,i have bought an rs 125 2007 and this was the video i was waiting for,
Thank you bro.🙏👍
Viktor, hi
Thanks for your comment. I hope the video is of some use to you👍
Cheers
Tom
Saya dari Indonesia memiliki motor 2T dari Kawasaki namanya Ninja 150 RR berkapasitas 150cc. Dan saya kagum dengan Aprilia RS 125 karena desainnya sangat sporty dengan sasis alumunium nya dan secara keseluruhan terlihat seperti sepeda motor besar 600-1000cc. Namun di negara saya sepeda motor yang anda miliki sangat jarang sekali orang yang memiliki nya dan harga nya sangat mahal. Sukses terus untuk anda bro.. 👍🏻 ajak saya jalan jalan di negaramu dengan menonton video anda yang lainnya.
Salam kenal dari Indonesia 🇮🇩
In Poland are pretty cheap. From 1200$
Hi Tom! I have an RS 125 from 2003. It had a 150cc cylinder on it, with this carb. The old man who sold it said, I should run the bike on 1:30 oil mixture, the pump is filled up with oil and running in loop, but it isn't connected. I went to my mechanic, he made the oil pump working again. Then the 150cc race setup melted the piston on the highway. We think that if we would use the bike with 1:30 in the fuel tank it would have gone 10.000kilometers more. Our mechanic replaced the cylinder and piston to an original 125cc setup, but didn't touched the carb. The exhaust valve is always open by the original "covering block", and now the bike doesn't rev correctly. It hasn't got any torque on low rpm of course, but when I accelerate, it has a big "hole" at 6500-7000rpm, and it doesn't rev every time. In 1st gear, it stays at 6500 for a little time, then revs a fckin big up to 11000, and I shift up and up and it runs extremely well. But in 2nd gear, it's not a little drop, it won't ever rev up, same as every upper gear. I can ride it, when I drop the rev below 7000 I shift back, but with the 150cc it hadn't got any issues, same always open exhaust valve, ran low torque at low rpm, but started to pull at 7000, and accelerated a huge. Now it's not perfect to say easily. Many owners said, that the carb hasn't got the correct configuration inside. Can it be the problem, and have you got any suggestions for me how to make it myself?
Hello. Thank you for your message.
2 things:
I have just released a tuning video on this carb. My settings are in the description of the video and there may be some useful content there for you.
Secondly, I’d be trying to fix the Rave valve if it isn’t operating👍
Thanks again
Tom
We had the K57 needle in the 2. pos, we lowered it to the 1. and it's much better, but still have the stuttering problem. Now I see that I can start the tuning, it's going forward without our "mechanic". I read in the topic, I ended up at the K21 needle and a smaller main jet. It was really good to hear that I'm on the right way again, and there were many helpful things in the tuning video. I order the parts, and set up the carb as yours, hope it will be as powerful. Thank you!
P.S. the Rave needs a magnet, and I have to exactly hunt one of them working. On the other side of the Earth, the market is really dirty, but as soon as I find a working magnet I'll put the Rave together, until that I have to ride with no torque at low rpm.
Isnt melted piston a result of to weak fuel / air mixture?
Man you helped me so much, thank you so much, I have so many problems with carb and your video helped me to make normal work of my Sx with polini.
I also make videos but yours are the best, explained everything.
All the best !
This carb is one of the best upgrades you can do to these bikes, you’ll be very happy with it
Hi there. Thanks for the comment.
I can already feel the difference, even without proper tuning. Really happy!
Cheers
Tom
@@tomdidit4216 I saw you put a 150 main jet in there , you’re running arrow exhaust and v force reeds I would recommend 158-160 main jet
@@tomdidit4216 the b36 pilot jet is perfect though you have that bang on , you should try the top needle notch though (leanest) it is recommended for arrow race system on the k57 needle which is the standard needle
Thanks for your comment. It a big help!
Its true I have a 150 main jet at the moment. This was temporarily used to help locate the cause of the extremely rich condition.
I need to do some all round final tuning including a dozen plug chops. I will defiantly increase the jet size to a safer 160 then.
Thanks again for the continued support and advice👍
Cheers pal
@@tomdidit4216 had any luck with the carb tuning at the moment bud? What’s your current jetting now? And needle position
I've stumbled across my friend who I never hear from anymore...Mr tom 😜
Hi mate can you help me I’ve got a new 34 mm carb and now the settings is mess up buy a bike mechanic can you help me it splatters between 7-8000 revs it’s got 160 main jet in and a k57 needle many thanks
Hi Jason.
My latest video may help.
I changed the needle and the problem went away. This may help you, but proceed with caution as my fix leans the mixture.
Cheers
To
greetings, I have a Dellorto VHSB 34LD, I wanted to buy it for a long time. There is a problem with the installation on Aprilia rs 125 2006. There is no vacuum hose connection on the carburetor. what to do, it seems to me that the engine does not get fuel without that connection. I would appreciate the help
Hey Tom welcome in 34 carb club ;) for me 155 and 40 jet is great top position for needle and 17x42 is great for me by the way i test it its less nervous but i like :)
Thanks for your comment and sharing your carb settings. It’s interesting to learn the different settings we all have. I do need to tune my 34mm carb properly, but probably in another video.
17x42 is good. Does it pull strong?
@@tomdidit4216 it s pull less than 16x40 but with 16x40 i have feeling missing a gear like the 6gear is the 5gear now with 17x42 it s better 80kmh 5gear 6000rpm
5 gear 140km/h 11500rpm i think it can take more km/h but motor screaming
I agree, 6th gear does arrive quickly with the 16x40 setup👍
What is the finished setup? So which nozzles? HD, ND, needle, clip, etc?
?
Greetings Norman. My apologies for the late response. Noted below are the “standard” settings that were in the carb at the time of making the video. These will serve as a good starting point for tuning.
B36 - pilot jet
160 - main jet
K57 - needle, highest clip position. (Leanest)
Unfortunately these setting were tested and the bike was not running very well (very rich).
I am experimenting with different jets and needles that will lean out the mixture.
There is massive delays my end with the delivery of carb parts. This is holding up my next video on tuning👍👍
@@tomdidit4216 ok fine. Then I'm eagerly waiting for the next video and hope it helps me with my vote. For me it also runs too rich and that already in the lower or partial load range
Thank you for your patience Norman. Must admit, I am getting a little frustrated with these long delivery times as it is also holding up other projects.👍
I like your way to check the carb is fine
Do you think that keihin pwk 38 would be better than the dellorto 34 for street use?
🤔 I’m honestly not sure if the 38mm is too big?
I know there is such a thing as ‘over carbing’. This is when the carb body is too big for the engine to draw fast flowing turbulent air through the Venturi of the carb.
Many websites indicate that 34mm was used on the Aprilia race bikes and other derestricted models. This suggests that 34mm body with good jetting would be sufficient for most power.
Hope my opinion helps👍
Cheers
Tom
Have you considered doing a Smartcarb upgrade? The advantages claimed in their marketing seem like just what the RS 125 needs, and I see Pochi (Japanese RS 125 youtuber) seem to have good results with them. Would love to see a video where you put your investigative- and production skills to work on installing and tuning one.
Hi Tom, my Aprilia rs 125 had its engine completely repaired but I can't get it to work 😐.
It has 100psi of pressure in the cylinder, Iridium spark plug, I have already cleaned the carburetor about 3 times but the most I can do is make it work for +- 5 seconds (it starts to smoke a lot and then turns off) It only works again when I clean the spark plug and I've already had to remove fuel from the crankshaft. I've exhausted all possibilities and I don't know what it could be, help me!!🥲
hi mate.. can you help me ?? i have a stock Aprillia sx125 with rotax 122 completely stock.. Its very weak can you tell me what to do to make it full power? i already order a Gianneli exhaust
what tipe of oil line material is recommended? i have to replace mine but cannot find the hoses in my local shop
Hi Lupo. Thanks for your comment.
You can use any 3mm internal diameter hose that is fuel rated. If the hose is not rated to carry fuel then it may get brittle and crack (bad news).
Parts should be easily accessible online at various outlets👍
Cheers
Tom
Hi! You still have a 17mm float height? I have a problem because the bike is not reacting the air screw when I am screw out, any help guys?
what carb if have 28 hp? see its 15 up in Norway this models
Hi,i cant find a carb where i can conect vacum hose, but i saw you have a vacuum hose.is that original?
Hi there. My carb doesn’t require a vacuum hose. Only petrol and 2T oil delivery. The 3rd port is blocked off.
good tom did it, the air screw of the dellorto 34 vhsb ld regulates only the air or air and gasoline? How many turns do you have it open? my configuration is as it comes back except the needle that is in the first position if it doesn't rattle me a lot "gurgles" in the middle. : high 160, low 40, first position needle since in the second I do very badly in low, medium. My question is if I put 36 low gum, will I be able to put the abuja in the second position? I hope you can help me, thanks!
Hi Joel. Thanks for your comment.
The air screw on this carb regulates the air on the pilot circuit. I have the air screw 2 turns out.
My needle position is on the top clip but I have a bit of a stutter around the middle RPM.
I’m currently experimenting with jetting on the new 34mm carb to see what is working best.
Unfortunately I can’t answer your questions with certainty as carb tuning is specific to each bike, in each climate. My suggestion to you is carefully try the new settings and see how you go.
Cheers Tom.
good tom did it, I have the same bike as you, I put the dellorto 34 vhsb ld on it. the configuration is as follows. needle k57 2 position from above (poorest position) low jet 40, high jet 160. It is as good as default since it is new. In the middle in neutral I open a quarter of gas more or less and it makes a gurgling sound that does not go up in revolutions. Running also until I open more gas. I haven't tried much on highs because I'm filming, but it doesn't turn up as furiously as before with the 28 cd vhst dellorto. I live in Spain, Tarragona. 68 meters high sea level, now we are in summer about 30 and few degrees and quite humid. I think the bike is running fat (a lot of gasoline) and I have tried the k57 needle in the first position (poorest) but it keeps making me gurgle in the middle that I was telling you about. Perhaps I would have to change the needle for one that would allow me to tune more? In that case what number would it be? When I start the motorcycle cold, "the spark plug communicates" I have to remove it and clean it. I hope you can help me, thank you very much.
K21
Also change your low jet to b36
Top needle clip position on the standard needle will solve the problem
Just out of curiosity, how come you chose this carb over a more modern flatslide like the TM of pwk series found on modern motocross bikes? Was it price, ease of fitment etc?
Hi Mozer. Good question.
I believe this style of 34mm Dellorto carb came on the original (older) derestricted bikes. Also Rotax use this on race engines. This carb also has the 2 stroke oil delivery opening.
I guess it just suits the engine👍
Thanks for your comment
Tom
What size fuel hose do I need from the tank to carb on a 2006 rs??
Where can i get the jets that you have in the video? And are they universal so they fit all Dell'orto carbs? If not, will they fit the 28 vhst and 34 vhsb interchangeably?
Hi
Thanks for your comment.
All carb parts were purchased from EuroBrit. The link to their site is in the video description👍
I think the jets are interchangeable between the VHSB and the PHBH, however the carbs are physically different sizes (28 & 34mm) and may not suit the air/fuel mixtures for each.
Not sure about the VHST model sorry as I’ve never worked on one.
Cheers
Tom
Hi tom did u remove the top part of pilot jet?
Did u remove the washer under the dp266 tube as our carbs dont have them?
I have on my vhst 28 2 wires and TPS sensor. I dont know how to disconect it.
I have saw that you dont have it on your bike.
Very easy. Just unplug it. Vhst34 is operated with mechanical throttle cable without tps
Hi Viktor. Thanks for your comment.
I’ve never worked on a VHST28 with TPS, so can’t say for sure. I would have to experiment to find out.
Apologies.
Tank you Guys👍
Crazy 😀
Hola Buenas!!!! Tengo una RS 125 ! Yo y mi pareja no pasa de 120 km/hora 130 podía ser algo mal de carburador ?
Hello Tom, I also have a question, how can I solve it so that I get enough fuel in the 34mm carb and it does not have a vacuum?
Hi! I have the same bike but it has block on 11000 rpm.How can i fix it? Tnx very good video.
Hi Mitre.
Thank you for your comment.
Depending on your model, I believe 11,000 is around the RPM limiter, which is probably electronically controlled? Sorry this may not be useful however I’m honestly not qualified to advise on increasing the RPM👍
Cheers
Tom
@Paul Mickiewicz you can check my channel i have 2 videos with rs
Hi what size main jet and pilot jet are you using?
i have the Dellorto VHSB34 Racing carb
Hi Markey. My apologies for the late response.
To answer your question, I’m not sure yet as I am still to do final tuning. Terrible weather here in Australia at the moment, so I can’t get the bike out.
Internet sources suggest a 160 main jet is a good place to start. Then plug chop, plug chop, plug chop👍
Cheers
Tom
Your videos rock! I just bought a brand new 2009 rs125 here in the US. They were not street legal and once and a while a new one pops up that's been at a dealership that they figure to sell.
I'll be doing this upgrade too, however, do you reconnect the choke cable? If so could that be in an upcoming video if you make another about carb tuning/adjusting?
MrBurgandy
Thanks for watching and leaving a comments. Good to hear your story and you have managed to buy and RS125. They and fun bike and the carb upgrade is one of the best mods for this bike…
My choke cable is disconnected because it now operates from a small plastic lever. I have to say my setup is not perfect but works fine. I believe you can buy different cable connection kits from PJME for this carb so that the existing cable will fit👍
Good luck👍
Cheers
Tom
Did you snag that one that was sitting in Pennsylvania?
hi tom i recently purchased a vforce 3 for my rs now im havin problems the bike opens up great but at the lights or pulling of it just dies have you got any suggestions for me tom you seem to know alot about the rs cheers tom for any help given.... ride safe.
Hello
Assuming the VF3 reeds are on tip top condition, you may need to adjust the carb settings.
When I installed my VF3 reeds, It caused a rich condition as it was letting far too much fuel through.
Keeping in mind that the VF3 reeds were designed to work on a KTM dirt bike (wide open throttle) they provide far better air flow than the original Rotax reeds. This can lead to more fuel entering the cylinder.
Try tinkering with the carb settings. I’d try the needle settings first as it is often the quickest and easiest thing to adjust and can indicate the cause of the “spluttering at the lights”
Good luck and thanks for your message👍
@@tomdidit4216 hi tom just went to pick the bike up the guys i use have sorted the vforce 3 reeds out for me. how can you tell if its running rich i know you gota look at the spark plug what colour should i be looking for? cheers tom and thanks for the help...
hi Tom thanks for the info what speed you had out of your rs? mine tops 95mph had it on a dyno 28bhp. and a whoppin 106mph but theres no weight on the bike im just under 12 stone so that could affect performance. im not a youngster im in my early 40's. love the rs why bother getting a bigger bike rs just as good. imo. anyways cheers tom thanks mate.
Hello there.
Good to hear your bike is running well!
I’m not sure about the top speed of my bike. I would assume it would be around 80 mph because I have the 16-40 sprocket setup.
However, I am thinking of changing back to the original sprockets as the 34mm carb has provided more power and I now run out of gears easier. Let’s see.
Just watched your video, believe you emailed me about your float issue.
Anyway a few pointers. You have the wrong type of carb top that is why you had the modify the throttle cable. With the correct top the std cable fits at works. The choke, you can use the choke set up from your 28 and still keep the cable operated choke.
Hope this helps
Greetings Paul. Thank you for your comment.
Yes this is correct. I did contact you guys regarding float parts etc.
Thanks for letting me know there is another carb top that will fit this. I hope others see this comment and order the different top.
I did check to see if the PHBH choke would fit, however it was a different physical size and thought it may not operate properly..
Anyway, I’m waiting on 2 smaller pilot jets and a new (leaner) needle such that I can start the fine tuning. FYI, with the current set up: B36 pilot and K57 needle, I have the 6,000rpm splutter. Fingers cross parts arrive soon.👍
Cheers
Tom please reply :) What drill attachment are you using to prime the oil hose to the carb?
Hi
From memory I think it’s a 7mm socket. Use drill in reverse.
Good luck👍
Tom
En qué posición tienes la abuja? Chicle de alta? Chicle de baja? Tus vídeos me an ayudado mucho. Gracias
Hi. Glad my videos have helped you.
Pilot jet - B36
Needled - 2nd position
Man jet - 160.
Cheers 👍
@@tomdidit4216 man jet 160🙄,155 it 's best
Thank you for your comment.
I’ll be testing jets soon👍
Hey, what is the top speed after all of those modifications? I’m trying to fully derestrict mine (bought it partially done) and it only goes 150kph.
Hi there.
I haven’t had the chance to test it yet. The jetting is off and I’m currently waiting on carb parts etc.
I’ll be sure to film the tuning process once the bits and pieces arrive.
Fyi, 150-160kph sounds about right for 17-40 setup and depending on your size.
Mine is geared for acceleration not top speed👍👍
@@tomdidit4216 Well, i have a Italkit Racing cylinder with one ring pistion and a gianelli exhaust system, about 3K km after rebuilt. I was really expecting it to go faster but after rebuilding i found out it has a 11K rpm rev limiter. Also all the power ends below 10K. I think with an unlocked CDI it could hit 170 but can’t find any in my country.
EDIT: Also im 100% sure my mixture is off.
Understood. There is a company in the UK called PJME that may have some full power CDI units?
Good luck 👍
Semi racing engine set up, so arrow challenge expansion chamber modified, titanium end can, extremely low squish clearance modified head, wossner racing forged piston twin ring, wossner conrod, 34mm flat slide dellorto, v force 3 reeds, ram air filter sponge filter (no air box) stage 2 modified cylinder ports , full power from factory bike so didn’t need to change ecu or power valve, max rpm Is just about 13000 with 17:40 standard gearing, I easily get 110+ mph every pull.
A standard bike with arrow challenge 34mm carb and the hole drilled in the cdi/ ecu
Assuming you have the correct ecu should rev to 12000-12500 and top speed with 17:40 should be 165-175kph depending on weight of rider , give or take 5kph due to conditions in weather, if you are far off this figure then you have bad compression/ and or bike is not jetted correctly :) compression should be atleast around 150 , personally I have 180 psi after 2800 miles on the top end , it’s just a case of good oil and regular servicing.
@@thesweeneyboys2974 Yeah as i said i need to get an unlocked dci/ecu, i have a 2nd gen so i think its different than drilling a hole. Then im gonna mess with the jettings.
EDIT: I use motul 710 since i remember, don’t have the thing to measure compression tho.
TPS sensor?
i had the same problem with my phbh 28 after sitting for a long time(rebuilding the engine) and i never come out... i solved changing the carbu
Hi Kappa. This sometimes happens👍
friend I give you some good advice gum high 160
and lower gum 60
and most importantly the needle clip put on the second from the top counting
if you have cylinder 125
Hi Makina.
I’ll be tuning the carb soon and will be sure to try your suggested settings then. Thank you!
Tom👍
Hi tom did you see the difference now with the 34 carburetor?
Hi
Yes lots of difference in the middle and top end. I think it is the best modification I have done to date. I will make a review video once my parts arrive👍
Cheers
Tom
Warum der Tausch auf 34 mm?
Full power rs125 were sold with 34mm vhsb. Especially early 90"s models of aprilia called SP.
Hi two stroke. Thanks for your comment.
I had to Google your message. Hope my response is correct…
“why the exchange to 34mm?”
The main body of the carb came with the bike. I had to order parts to make it work.
There are mixed reviews on whether the 34mm is an upgrade or waste of money. Although the 34mm is not tuned, I can confirm a noticeable power increase on the top end👍
Cheers
Which CDI do you have?
If stock is it piaggio or Nippondenso?
Hi Phillip.
To be honest I’ve never checked! I believe it is stock, but will have to see.
Cheers👍
@Paul Mickiewicz yes you are right. However for the last models (RM and RD), they another ECU which involved interference from a Piaggio and the technology from the manufacturer EFI Technology.
How is the fuel mileage compared to the 28mm carb. Really curious about that.
Great video once again Tom!
Hello again 2 stroke rides.
Not sure about the mileage figures yet. I will hopefully get these once it is properly tuned👍
Cheers pal.
i sold my rs125 years ago is a fun bike
Hi where do you buy your parts ??? Nice bike i would like to have thée same
Where on earth did you get a new 34mm from? If you don't mind haha (never mind I just seen it's not new but it's in good condition)
Hi
The carb came incomplete with the bike. It’s been under my work bench for about 1.5 years. Feels good to have finally ordered the parts and use it👍
Thanks. help me a lote see your vídeo.
Good to hear👍
Cheers
Tom
in what position do you have the abuja? low gum? high gum? your videos help me a lot, thanks!
Hi Joel.
My apologies I’m not sure what you mean by gum and abuja.
My current needle position is 3 from top position.
My main jet is currently 150, about to be changed to 155 or 160👍.
Hope this is what you are after.
I’m glad my videos help you pal.
Cheers
Tom
Hi mate I just purchased a 30m delorto for my bike same model as yours will I have to change anything else to fit this much apprechiated
🤖👍
7
This bike what size mm
What mm carburator
Hi Natang
This bike has a 125cc engine
Hi the standard carburettor is 28mm and the new upgraded model is 34mm.
Hope this helps.
Tom