From Colorado also boss the beautiful springs, but I want to thank you for this video. Best I have found, just got my house build 2 years ago before covid lol got lucky with wood price. Your sprinkler system is the same as mine so you save me some money, went to lowes and got me a compressor for less then $99 ( military discount) and know i can do mine my neighbors and get my money back that was invested. Bless and thanks.
I closed in January and the Irrigation system was not addressed by the home inspection. I inherited a 7 zone system that had not been serviced prior to sale. The copper feed pipes were exposed to the elements without being drained. Pipe was cracked in 2 places. Authorized service has me on the wait list until mid June. Your video was very informative for 1st timers.
Thanks for the video. Just blew mine out because we are getting an unusual cold spell with low temperatures around 20°F next couple nights. I had my sprinkler company perform blowouts in the past and they would hookup their compressor in the same manner. I just hooked it up the same way and had no problems. I set my output to around 75-80 psi because any lower the PVB would kick in and start farting the air out the valve.
@@blakestreetbomber2715 It just happened to me on one of the zones on my system. When most of the water is blown out of the zone it loses pressure to the point where this happens. At least that has been my experience so far. I just blew mine out again after running my system for several weeks and it didn't do it this time. But I didn't go below 75 psi this time either.
Your video was very helpful. Your system is very similar to mine. Other videos don't show or answer some questions I had that you did. Such as adding pressure to get the air to go through the system. Thank you for your video.
Thanks for the link for the conector. Can you post the rest of the parts for the entire connection? I pretty sure I can find them, just want to make sure I get the right parts.
That was a helpful video. Thanks for posting. I'm wondering if, rather than physically turning each valve on and off, couldn't you use the controller to do that instead?
I use to do it that way at my old house beinf that the controller was pretty much right next to the service valve. My house now has no service valve. I’d have to do it from the check valve hole
I found this video really helpful. For my test blivet I needed a different adapter that I had to order from Amazon due to the thread difference. I just wanted to leave the type here in case someone else had one like mine. I used a 4AN Female to 1/4 NPT Male Swivel Adapter Fitting.
@@ultimus1998 Thanks, but don't we also need the air control on and off valve? This one part allows the 1/4 hose fitting to connect, but what about the air control valvle he is using (the other parts)? Storm comming to Colorado, I'm a little panicked!
@@ucanduitdude2317 Ok thanks. Is it neccessary to have the hose valve that you have on your adapter/hose, or can I just trun the air valve on the backflow valve with the screwdriver (just open the coppoer valve with only a hose attached)?
I have a very similar system. Are these designed this way just to drain manually at the zone valve box? If not, then why not have a proper blowout port installed beyond the during initial construction of the sprinkler system??
Can you control each zone using the key pad rather than opening them up in the ground box. Also I assume you start with zone one rather than last zone?
@@ucanduitdude2317 ty so much just one more question, i also live in colorado do u think now is best to blowout sprinkler or should i wait around halloween when its real cold?
The underground pipes will be okay for awhile with low temps in the 20's but the copper pipe coming out the house may not. If you see 25 degrees each night for several nights I would wrap the side pipe, then blow out the system soon thereafter.
Yeah, that is an easy way of doing it. BUT, you can definitly damage the backflow preventer. Probably over $100+ plus part repacement cost. Never mind installion cost if you can't do it yourself. I installed unions before and after the backflow preventer. That way I remove the valve in the fall and store it in my basement. I hook up my compresseor to the pipe after the valve.
Thanks for the comment. Yes there is a chance you can damage backflow valve. Sprinkler blowout companies hook up the same way I did, but they may have a higher volume compressor they use, at low pressures. Just need to be careful.
I have a Febco Backflow Preventer something like what you have. Their site says to not blow air through the BFP due to possible damage. You obviously disagree?
The back flow preventer will be just fine if you keep the pressure at a normal operating pressure. For me, 40 psi is all that is needed. Not sure why it was running up to 90 psi.
@@habbadabbado5765 trust me no it wont after doing that a few times. I work on these things everyday throughout the summer. Ive seen rubbers complete ripped apart from check valves. You end up spinning those check valves at crazy rpms.
I'd like to get your response to the last few comments below as it seems too risky to the backflow preventer especially at that PSI. Have you thought about installing an airport on the pipe going down to the valve box for a much safer blowout?
To be 100% safe, an air port valve could installed after the shutoff valve. That being said I've talked to alot of homeowners in our subdivision and everyone has the same setup as mine (same builder). Nobody has had any issues with the backflow valve. If you call a service to blow out your system are they going to install that extra fitting on your pipes? Although they will use a high volume 80 cfm or higher, with lower pressures whereas I only had about 8cfm. If you're unsure about doing yourself, I would suggest calling a sprinkler service this year and watch how they do it.
DO NOT use your PVB vacuum breaker or any back flow device to blow out sprinklers. you can easily damage them with pressure or heat from compressor. you need a blowout tee with a hose bib on the sprinkler side of back flow preventer.
That was a bit nasty. I loved the video, speed and all. It was like a family member was explaining it to me. Not too fast, just right. I didn't have go pause or go back. If you don't have something nice to say, keep it to yourself. 😕
Blowing compressed air through the Back Flow Preventer is 🚫 the correct way of removing water from the pipes out the sprinkler heads. Don't make videos that shows the incorrect way of this process.
I would agree, but short of cutting the pipe and putting a valve to blow it out, I have to do it the way I showed. So far so good. It's also the way the professionals come an do it for homeowners in the neighborhood. They use low pressure high volume compressors.
@@ucanduitdude2317Understood, but you have a free and clear vertical pipe downstream of the Backflow that can easily add a ball valve to isolate & sillcock for a compressed air connection. Just saying.
From Colorado also boss the beautiful springs, but I want to thank you for this video. Best I have found, just got my house build 2 years ago before covid lol got lucky with wood price. Your sprinkler system is the same as mine so you save me some money, went to lowes and got me a compressor for less then $99 ( military discount) and know i can do mine my neighbors and get my money back that was invested. Bless and thanks.
Thanks for the comment, glad the video helped!
I closed in January and the Irrigation system was not addressed by the home inspection. I inherited a 7 zone system that had not been serviced prior to sale. The copper feed pipes were exposed to the elements without being drained. Pipe was cracked in 2 places. Authorized service has me on the wait list until mid June. Your video was very informative for 1st timers.
Thanks for the comment. Hope you can get your copper pipes fixed sooner rather than later.
Best thanks , love the details. Just what I was looking for ..
Awesome detailed video 👏🏿👏🏿
great and direct to the point
Thanks for the video. Just blew mine out because we are getting an unusual cold spell with low temperatures around 20°F next couple nights. I had my sprinkler company perform blowouts in the past and they would hookup their compressor in the same manner. I just hooked it up the same way and had no problems. I set my output to around 75-80 psi because any lower the PVB would kick in and start farting the air out the valve.
I’m having this issue, I’ve increased pressure but still the PVB is farting. I’m I doing something wrong?
@@blakestreetbomber2715 It just happened to me on one of the zones on my system. When most of the water is blown out of the zone it loses pressure to the point where this happens. At least that has been my experience so far. I just blew mine out again after running my system for several weeks and it didn't do it this time. But I didn't go below 75 psi this time either.
Your video was very helpful. Your system is very similar to mine. Other videos don't show or answer some questions I had that you did. Such as adding pressure to get the air to go through the system. Thank you for your video.
You're welcome. Hope it helped. Thanks for the comment.
BTW, the shutoff valve in the basement that you used to drain the line, with the threaded cap, is called a 'stop and waste' valve.
Thanks, I should do the research on the names for all the parts before I do the video, lol.
Thanks a lot for this video. It's very helpful. Did you keep the compressor running all the time you're blowing the line?
I usually let the compressor rest for 2-5 minutes between zones to let it cool down a bit. That's just me though. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for your wonderful video. :-)
Thank you very helpful video
Thanks for the link for the conector. Can you post the rest of the parts for the entire connection? I pretty sure I can find them, just want to make sure I get the right parts.
Most of the rest of the parts are standard air supply parts found at your local hardware store. I'll look some up and post some links.
That was a helpful video. Thanks for posting.
I'm wondering if, rather than physically turning each valve on and off, couldn't you use the controller to do that instead?
I use to do it that way at my old house beinf that the controller was pretty much right next to the service valve. My house now has no service valve. I’d have to do it from the check valve hole
I found this video really helpful. For my test blivet I needed a different adapter that I had to order from Amazon due to the thread difference. I just wanted to leave the type here in case someone else had one like mine. I used a 4AN Female to 1/4 NPT Male Swivel Adapter Fitting.
Thanks for the comment, and the link.
@@ultimus1998 Thanks, but don't we also need the air control on and off valve? This one part allows the 1/4 hose fitting to connect, but what about the air control valvle he is using (the other parts)? Storm comming to Colorado, I'm a little panicked!
The air control shutoff valve can be found at your local hardware store, Ace, Home Depot, or Lowes, usually in the air compressor accessories section.
@@ucanduitdude2317 Ok thanks. Is it neccessary to have the hose valve that you have on your adapter/hose, or can I just trun the air valve on the backflow valve with the screwdriver (just open the coppoer valve with only a hose attached)?
Thank you foe sharing your informations
So what psi DID you set to finally?
I have a very similar system. Are these designed this way just to drain manually at the zone valve box? If not, then why not have a proper blowout port installed beyond the during initial construction of the sprinkler system??
do you have a total parts list?
Amazing!!! Thanks
Thanks
Can you control each zone using the key pad rather than opening them up in the ground box. Also I assume you start with zone one rather than last zone?
Yes, you can probably turn on the valves at the timer box. I did start with zone 1 then go down the line, that way you make sure all get done.
Just what I needed, thanks for posting!
someone else on youtube shared that don't use those connectors for the air. instead, they had an extra valve on the leg towards sprinklers
Thank for the video, and I think we live in the same housing development.
Thanks, glad it helped. We live in Milliken.
@@ucanduitdude2317 settlers village
Thanks, good video and thanks for putting the link down there to order the fitting.
Can u please post a link for that connector you bought at ace hardware the size that connect to your backflow
There's an Amazon link for the connector I used right below the video, above the comment section.
@@ucanduitdude2317 ty so much just one more question, i also live in colorado do u think now is best to blowout sprinkler or should i wait around halloween when its real cold?
The underground pipes will be okay for awhile with low temps in the 20's but the copper pipe coming out the house may not. If you see 25 degrees each night for several nights I would wrap the side pipe, then blow out the system soon thereafter.
Yeah, that is an easy way of doing it. BUT, you can definitly damage the backflow preventer. Probably over $100+ plus part repacement cost. Never mind installion cost if you can't do it yourself. I installed unions before and after the backflow preventer. That way I remove the valve in the fall and store it in my basement. I hook up my compresseor to the pipe after the valve.
Thanks for the comment. Yes there is a chance you can damage backflow valve. Sprinkler blowout companies hook up the same way I did, but they may have a higher volume compressor they use, at low pressures. Just need to be careful.
I have a Febco Backflow Preventer something like what you have. Their site says to not blow air through the BFP due to possible damage. You obviously disagree?
It’s really best not to blow out through the PVB. Installing an air port on the pipe going down to your valve box is the way to go
Sure that sounds good on paper but how do you exactly do that? That’s something they should’ve done when they installed the sprinkler system.
The back flow preventer will be just fine if you keep the pressure at a normal operating pressure. For me, 40 psi is all that is needed. Not sure why it was running up to 90 psi.
@@habbadabbado5765 trust me no it wont after doing that a few times. I work on these things everyday throughout the summer. Ive seen rubbers complete ripped apart from check valves. You end up spinning those check valves at crazy rpms.
I'd like to get your response to the last few comments below as it seems too risky to the backflow preventer especially at that PSI. Have you thought about installing an airport on the pipe going down to the valve box for a much safer blowout?
To be 100% safe, an air port valve could installed after the shutoff valve. That being said I've talked to alot of homeowners in our subdivision and everyone has the same setup as mine (same builder). Nobody has had any issues with the backflow valve. If you call a service to blow out your system are they going to install that extra fitting on your pipes? Although they will use a high volume 80 cfm or higher, with lower pressures whereas I only had about 8cfm. If you're unsure about doing yourself, I would suggest calling a sprinkler service this year and watch how they do it.
Yeah the way he’s doing could definitely damage the backflow preventer.
You don't need 20 gallon compressor to do the job, I have a 13 Gallon one and do the job just fine.
You should put air through the backflow regulator
*should not
DO NOT use your PVB vacuum breaker or any back flow device to blow out sprinklers.
you can easily damage them with pressure or heat from compressor.
you need a blowout tee with a hose bib on the sprinkler side of back flow preventer.
It's important to winterize your system, but do not blow air through your backflow.
he did not have an option in the case, correct?
You shouldn’t connect the air this way, it will cause damage to the back flow preventer. You should install a blowout after the backflow.
True, it may cause damage, but I've done it this way for the last 3 years with no issues. I may put a blowout connection this fall though.
A little toooo verbose, but good👍
By the time he is done explaining everything it will be time to turn the sprinklers on again.
True, I'm working on speeding my videos up as do more of them.
All of he’s info sure helped me out. Thank you for explaining it so clearly .
Best thanks , love the details,
That was a bit nasty. I loved the video, speed and all. It was like a family member was explaining it to me. Not too fast, just right. I didn't have go pause or go back. If you don't have something nice to say, keep it to yourself. 😕
If you're a homeowner, better to know more in advance than rush it and pay for the damage later...
Blowing compressed air through the Back Flow Preventer is 🚫 the correct way of removing water from the pipes out the sprinkler heads. Don't make videos that shows the incorrect way of this process.
I would agree, but short of cutting the pipe and putting a valve to blow it out, I have to do it the way I showed. So far so good. It's also the way the professionals come an do it for homeowners in the neighborhood. They use low pressure high volume compressors.
@@ucanduitdude2317Understood, but you have a free and clear vertical pipe downstream of the Backflow that can easily add a ball valve to isolate & sillcock for a compressed air connection. Just saying.