Although you don't have the factory scan-tool (Tech2 ) a tech begins a no start even with the customers code written on the ticket. The difference is the scan-tool can access all codes and fail-records. This means job 1 is checking for other codes as they are type A, B, C and only type "A" turn the CEL on and set a code once the PCM detects incorrect inputs. Type "B" codes only turn the CEL on the 2nd time the test runs and fails. These are non-emissions codes and some you would not have guessed. Computer code is written with a backup program, as I say, to keep the customer from going into "Tennis Shoe Mode". This simply means that if a failure is detected, as the PCM is running hundreds of tests in the first 3-5 minutes after starting. Know, it ran after you cleaned it and your wife ran errands. When the engine is cold ( Air temp & Coolant temp is with in 10 degrees of each other ) the PCM runs in " Speed Density " mode for a few seconds while waiting for the O2 sensors to heat up. So, cleaning maybe caused a wire to conduct current for a minute to create the frequency needed, then defaulted to Speed Density the rest of that trip. The PCM stores history of failures by key cycle, trip and warm-up cycles. Each are different. I can hold a 4 hours tech seminar for 70 techs and become shocked how many of them do not know. Good ones do! Don't feel bad as I am just sharing. For giggles, disconnect the coolant temp sensor and one O2 sensor, start, check for codes, you only have one...the O2 sensor. As for fail records, each test the PCM runs, then fails (In 4-5 Minutes) but it stores 5 fail records. This shows "Grams Per Second" on MAF, but also RPM, Time running, Coolant Temp, Speed, etc., you get the idea. So a valid MAF code, a check of B+, Ground, Pin-Fit like 150 metri-pack terminal which is 1.5 mm and the feel of tension in the female connector. (True Story) Buddy working at Cadillac dealer was finishing repair, tells me towed in as a shop wanted $2,000+ estimate to fix by replacing the PCM. He found 2 of 3 female terminals on the TPS sensor where poor pin fit after bad reading on PCM, Fluke 87-V (Digital Multi Meter) while back probing terminals inside plastic connector. He replaced all 3 terminals, core crimp, weather-pack crimp, after soldering 2, 3, 4 inches of wire on first. This is done to stagger soldered repair w/shrink tubing inside harness, then re-tapped. (Tech Tip) Use a drop of black weather strip adhesive to keep tape from un-raviling. Ok, I have went way long, but all is good. I go in 11 days (June 2020) for last but 4th lumbar fusion, no L3-L2. 10-4, Over & Out! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired ( Instructor UTI / Omaha, Technical Seminar ACDelco )
I just did a 2003 Suburban with a 5.3 engine one thing you might want to check on the passenger side rear of the engine there is a black with white stripe ground wire that attaches to the block most of the time is ready to break off or is broken off when I tested mine The Wire just pulled up from behind the engine I cut and splice the wire longer and attached it to a bolt I installed on the front of the head on the passenger side everything worked perfectly so try the ground wire and it shouldn't cost anything to fix I had no start also it stalled out while driving to the point it wouldn't start back up
I think , since you replaced the MAS Airflow Sensor, you need to reset it by removing & returning connections of the battery so that ECU might recognized & adjust to the new sensor. Just a thought
Have you recently visited a fast oil change place? When those guys show you your air filter trying to sell you one, they often roll the seal when putting it back. If you ever let them check your air filter, check it yourself to make sure it's in correctly. That seal letting unfiltered air go past will mess up the MAF. Did you ever find out why your teuck wasn't starting?
Hi, check that you have fuel coming or even the right fuel pressure. Because sometimes the fuel pump,relay or system breaks in these GM trucks. Best of the luck to you.
Check for codes. Clear all codes. Disconnect negative battery cable, wait 10 minutes. Reconnect. Start normally, not quick blips- or you will chip starter teeth. If still no start- check codes again. Hard faults do not clear themselves.
I gave a 👍 for effort! AND THE FACT we're both riding on Murphy's Law! At least the last 6 hours aren't in vain! If nothing else I can add this to my PROCESS OF ELIMINATION LIST. 🤔 😖 😵
I did the same thing. I think you clean MAF sensors only so many times. Maybe there's a coating on those elements that eventually wears off then it's shot. I finally bought a new one and installed it and it cleared up everything.
Diagnose first ! Example of parts cannoned mentality..... Also it would have to be a really big vac leak to affect starting....hook up a fuel pressure gauge and test it
i am no car expert but starting the car, as far as i know, only requires a battery, starter and fuel if battery and starter are in a good shape, it is time to check your fuel system
did you figure it out yet???? im having same problem with long cranking and not starting,,,,but sometimes starts fine. im leaning tords fuel pressure and fuel pump please let us know how you fixed this thanks
Pretty much. I have the exact same vehicle and that sensor going out just caused my vehicle to stall while driving during acceleration. I always was able to get it to start right back up almost instantly.
@@whowho7969 I would start with the Airbox filter make sure it clean might has picked up a leaf or two maybe even an animal packed it with food for the winter inspect the honey cone for damage even a small scrape can mess with the reading then try MAF cleaner on the MAF never said a year or make make sure the rotation of the MAF is correct an incorrect rotation will send false data to the computer (need to compare to online engine bay of your truck to it's current position ) the truck should be able to start when it's disconnect (might struggle though) my rotation was incorrect and the read was slightly incorrect if it's one of those DELPHI then it will need to be replaced with a new one don't get an after market brand get the oem DELPHI sensor
Said it last video: I hope it's not your fuel pump, but I don't hear it priming when you have the key on Acc. Driver's side, slightly in front of the rear tire is where the tank is (big black plastic tank with 2 straps holding it up)... Give that thing a solid couple of kicks and see if you can hear it priming.
Also prime the pump. Turn to run position 3x without cranking, count to 6 in between each turn. On 3 rd time after the 6 count, crank it. My name is des also.
I have the same issue new fuel pump new battery new sparks plugs cleaned the maf sensor cleaned trotle body I still have issues but only when it's below 20s which is not too cold.
did you clear the codes before trying to start it? this might be a bigger problem then you think! you need a 5 volt feed to the mass air flow and a good ground and a signal! if you unplug it it should go to a default strategy and thing is your air filter clean and is your throttle body clean? before you shoot the parts cannon! thats what i would check be its been years since i worked on cars since i now am a heavy equipment mechanic!
Good luck in remedying your problem What scanner are you using ? Prices have recently dropped dramatically and feel its time to buy one for my Silverado
What if you have bought a new one an it still cuts out an pops an bogs down that's sounds like fuel regulator mine I unpluded mine an it started an ran after a little bit of driving an leaving the negative side of the battery off it runs better but still goes in to studdering an bogging down it got alot new parts on it an I'm quite frustrating with it
Yeah I did I put a new one on it it still didn't change ANYTHING I've narrowed down to my oxygen sencer an the exhaust an the mass flow air senceri had to run straight pipes on witch done away with the cats so I'm figuring it's between the mfs an oxygen sencers in the ecm I changed every sencer in it but the cam sencer everything else is new I'm just tired of putting money in it I really am thx for the advice GB
I know this is an older video but quit guessing and use a scantool to look at live data. If you get one that can access the vehicle modules it's worth the additional cost over a bargain basement reader.
Yes in order to get new and more life out of these is change the Spider injection system fuel regulator while in there crank shaft sensor fuel pump and you have a new truck.
Have you checked for spark? Spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid into intake after mass air flow meter (MAF) and see if it starts. Maybe fuel pump not working. You are in So. Cal. now and pay $3.50 a gallon of fuel and at 11-12 mi per gal you might like to save some money on parts to pay for fuel. Besides i hate random parts swapping. An intake leak, I could not imagine one large enough to keep from starting, so I believe you are wasting your time changing intake gaskets because of no start. Once you get started and fuel trims are off you might need to do this as you are right, this is a common problem on the Chevy.
Wow I didn't watch the video until end before I made my comment, after I saw the FAKE box.......But maybe that is the reason why it didn't start.........How did things turn out by the way?
So when i unplug mine it idles higher, byr stage 2 truck and all supporting mods tuned on 91, geting a stuttering shift into 2nd and also sometimes on grabbin gas to pass.. performa built trans..its in fuel/fire, i been thinkin maf cause seems to run a lil rich...any idea..
@@steves5355 if it runs after you disconnect the MAF means it’s bad if it cuts off it’s working. But when changing yourself it will take computer 20 miles or so to readjust.
it would still start with an intake leak just runs like crap sound like a verey weak fulepump i couldent even here the f pump cycle when u were tryin to start it
I suspect fuel issue , takes a few cranks to fire up.. and oh i couldnt help to notice your running you tank real low on the last video...fuel pressure & the pump definitely needs some investigating
It is not pronounced Delphee. It is with a hard I, like Delpheye. I grew up in a city where there were 8 Delphi electronics plants employing thousands. As well as AC/DELCO plants. Basically, they are the same, both GM.
Ok, 5 year old video and all, but, "Delphi" is not pronounced "del-fee", it is pronounced "del-fi", with "eye" at the end, not "ee". Otherwise good video!
CA has stricter testing regulations for products sold there. If it won't ship to CA but will ship to other states, I bet that's why. The cheaper one probably failed the California Prop 65 specs (has to do with environmental protection and human exposure to certain chemicals).
![“อ.เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม” มาตามคำเรียกร้อง แหกศาสตร์ฮวงจุ้ย เตือนสติอย่างมงาย | แฉ 7 พ.ย. 67 [1/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5fc4S3xBNfc/mqdefault.jpg)
Although you don't have the factory scan-tool (Tech2 ) a tech begins a no start even with the customers code written on the ticket. The difference is the scan-tool can access all codes and fail-records. This means job 1 is checking for other codes as they are type A, B, C and only type "A" turn the CEL on and set a code once the PCM detects incorrect inputs. Type "B" codes only turn the CEL on the 2nd time the test runs and fails. These are non-emissions codes and some you would not have guessed. Computer code is written with a backup program, as I say, to keep the customer from going into "Tennis Shoe Mode". This simply means that if a failure is detected, as the PCM is running hundreds of tests in the first 3-5 minutes after starting. Know, it ran after you cleaned it and your wife ran errands. When the engine is cold ( Air temp & Coolant temp is with in 10 degrees of each other ) the PCM runs in " Speed Density " mode for a few seconds while waiting for the O2 sensors to heat up. So, cleaning maybe caused a wire to conduct current for a minute to create the frequency needed, then defaulted to Speed Density the rest of that trip. The PCM stores history of failures by key cycle, trip and warm-up cycles. Each are different. I can hold a 4 hours tech seminar for 70 techs and become shocked how many of them do not know. Good ones do! Don't feel bad as I am just sharing. For giggles, disconnect the coolant temp sensor and one O2 sensor, start, check for codes, you only have one...the O2 sensor. As for fail records, each test the PCM runs, then fails (In 4-5 Minutes) but it stores 5 fail records. This shows "Grams Per Second" on MAF, but also RPM, Time running, Coolant Temp, Speed, etc., you get the idea. So a valid MAF code, a check of B+, Ground, Pin-Fit like 150 metri-pack terminal which is 1.5 mm and the feel of tension in the female connector.
(True Story) Buddy working at Cadillac dealer was finishing repair, tells me towed in as a shop wanted $2,000+ estimate to fix by replacing the PCM. He found 2 of 3 female terminals on the TPS sensor where poor pin fit after bad reading on PCM, Fluke 87-V (Digital Multi Meter) while back probing terminals inside plastic connector. He replaced all 3 terminals, core crimp, weather-pack crimp, after soldering 2, 3, 4 inches of wire on first. This is done to stagger soldered repair w/shrink tubing inside harness, then re-tapped. (Tech Tip) Use a drop of black weather strip adhesive to keep tape from un-raviling. Ok, I have went way long, but all is good. I go in 11 days (June 2020) for last but 4th lumbar fusion, no L3-L2. 10-4, Over & Out!
ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired ( Instructor UTI / Omaha, Technical Seminar ACDelco )
Awesome 👏
Good luck on your surgery and God Bless you
I just did a 2003 Suburban with a 5.3 engine one thing you might want to check on the passenger side rear of the engine there is a black with white stripe ground wire that attaches to the block most of the time is ready to break off or is broken off when I tested mine The Wire just pulled up from behind the engine I cut and splice the wire longer and attached it to a bolt I installed on the front of the head on the passenger side everything worked perfectly so try the ground wire and it shouldn't cost anything to fix I had no start also it stalled out while driving to the point it wouldn't start back up
Had the same issue once
Always clear the codes after replacing the part but before trying to start.
I think , since you replaced the MAS Airflow Sensor, you need to reset it by removing & returning connections of the battery so that ECU might recognized & adjust to the new sensor. Just a thought
Same if your doing a tps sensor
Have you recently visited a fast oil change place? When those guys show you your air filter trying to sell you one, they often roll the seal when putting it back. If you ever let them check your air filter, check it yourself to make sure it's in correctly. That seal letting unfiltered air go past will mess up the MAF.
Did you ever find out why your teuck wasn't starting?
Hi, check that you have fuel coming or even the right fuel pressure. Because sometimes the fuel pump,relay or system breaks in these GM trucks.
Best of the luck to you.
You won’t get a check engine light with a bad fuel pump
Or a relay
Check for codes. Clear all codes. Disconnect negative battery cable, wait 10 minutes. Reconnect. Start normally, not quick blips- or you will chip starter teeth. If still no start- check codes again. Hard faults do not clear themselves.
I gave a 👍 for effort! AND THE FACT we're both riding on Murphy's Law! At least the last 6 hours aren't in vain! If nothing else I can add this to my PROCESS OF ELIMINATION LIST.
🤔 😖 😵
somebody i know has a tahoe and was having the same problem, changed fuel filter but culprit was the fuel pump.
I’m a mechanic for 45yrs. Check ur tire pressure,change engine oil,fuel pump,charcoal canister,blinker fluid and washer fluid
I did the same thing. I think you clean MAF sensors only so many times. Maybe there's a coating on those elements that eventually wears off then it's shot. I finally bought a new one and installed it and it cleared up everything.
Your correct Delphi MAF Sensor should be part number AF10043.
For this problem with the mass air flow try replacing fuel pressure regulater or crank sensor
That is crazy. I literally went to O’Rielly’s and bought the same exact thing for $86 brand new
My next step would definitely be fuel pressure tests
The comments are very good on this video.
it's sound like fuel issue , like fuel filter or fuel pump .
Try the temp sensor in the side of head. If they are bad they read lower than temp is and floods the motor
Diagnose first ! Example of parts cannoned mentality..... Also it would have to be a really big vac leak to affect starting....hook up a fuel pressure gauge and test it
CORRECT
So what was the issue if it wasn’t the Mass air sensor ?
California emissions regulations are more strict, maybe the reason?
Welcome to the U.S.S.A.
I have the same problem on my 03 Yukon. Did you ever fix the problem?
Very well done video.
Very helpful for Chevy owners!
i am no car expert but starting the car, as far as i know, only requires a battery, starter and fuel
if battery and starter are in a good shape, it is time to check your fuel system
👍 for pronuncing "Delphi" correctly.
I don't even own suburban, but curious if CRC MAF sensor cleaner worked in your other vid.
Before you guys go buying a new MAF sensor just unplug it, If it your still having same problems its most likely not the problem
n3h unplug mine fixed the problem drove it for 200000 miles
did you figure it out yet???? im having same problem with long cranking and not starting,,,,but sometimes starts fine. im leaning tords fuel pressure and fuel pump please let us know how you fixed this thanks
im wondering the same
Did any of you to ever get this problem fixed ?
I have replaced fuel lines and filter..need MAF sensor also.starts but won't drive smoothly??any thoughts
I don’t think the MAF would keep it from starting up anyway, that should have been a red flag
Yeh true maf has nothing to do with not starting it might be the fuel pump going out or something else or the throttle body sensor
On my 04 suburban. If the mass air flow sensor is not connected, it will not start.
Did you clean the throttle body ?
What is that screen on the sensor for? It must restrict air flow and can I remove it?
Unplug the car battery! You did install a new sensor let your ECU reconfigure itself with the new hardware...
Would you need to plug in a memory saver?
CORRECT
wouldn't a bad mass air flow sensor just make the car idle bad , and possibly excessive fuel consumption? is it really vital for starting?
CORRECT.
but I guess the MAF sensor was still bad since it was giving a code..
My MAS had the connector put on upside down. Car still started and ran somewhat ok.
Pretty much. I have the exact same vehicle and that sensor going out just caused my vehicle to stall while driving during acceleration. I always was able to get it to start right back up almost instantly.
You did try with the MAF disconnected? right as it will fall back to legacy mode
I got the same problem p0101 I unplugged the maf sensor while the truck is running does nothing?
@@whowho7969 I would start with the Airbox filter make sure it clean might has picked up a leaf or two maybe even an animal packed it with food for the winter
inspect the honey cone for damage
even a small scrape can mess with the reading
then try MAF cleaner on the MAF
never said a year or make
make sure the rotation of the MAF is correct an incorrect rotation will send false data to the computer (need to compare to online engine bay of your truck to it's current position )
the truck should be able to start when it's disconnect (might struggle though)
my rotation was incorrect and the read was slightly incorrect
if it's one of those DELPHI then it will need to be replaced with a new one don't get an after market brand get the oem DELPHI sensor
hi check wire maybe loose inside and check with test multimeter
They won't ship emission components to CA if they're not CARB compliant.
And now my shit state is following CA stupid ass emissions laws, I hate this damn state
Eric Mcguire what state is that?
@@zacharyscherer5345 well the #1 least free state in the country, NY
Eric Mcguire ah feel for ya brother I’m in PA Pittsburgh to be exact and let me tell you not much better
Said it last video: I hope it's not your fuel pump, but I don't hear it priming when you have the key on Acc. Driver's side, slightly in front of the rear tire is where the tank is (big black plastic tank with 2 straps holding it up)... Give that thing a solid couple of kicks and see if you can hear it priming.
Also prime the pump. Turn to run position 3x without cranking, count to 6 in between each turn. On 3 rd time after the 6 count, crank it. My name is des also.
Did u disconnect the battery before u did this? Might need a hard reset. Or spark plugs
Also fuel filter I have a 2003 suburban experienced same problem
I have 05 tahoe sputtering and slow acceleration will this be my problem?
Clogged cats
What about the PO102....MAF
I have the same issue new fuel pump new battery new sparks plugs cleaned the maf sensor cleaned trotle body I still have issues but only when it's below 20s which is not too cold.
did you clear the codes before trying to start it? this might be a bigger problem then you think! you need a 5 volt feed to the mass air flow and a good ground and a signal! if you unplug it it should go to a default strategy and thing is your air filter clean and is your throttle body clean? before you shoot the parts cannon! thats what i would check be its been years since i worked on cars since i now am a heavy equipment mechanic!
CORRECT
Maybe the ECU needs resetting?
Where is the ECU in located in a 03 Tahoe
That’s pretty much the same MAF on my car just shaped slightly different
Good luck in remedying your problem
What scanner are you using ?
Prices have recently dropped dramatically and feel its time to buy one for my Silverado
Scanner is from Harbor Freight
What if you have bought a new one an it still cuts out an pops an bogs down that's sounds like fuel regulator mine I unpluded mine an it started an ran after a little bit of driving an leaving the negative side of the battery off it runs better but still goes in to studdering an bogging down it got alot new parts on it an I'm quite frustrating with it
Yeah I did I put a new one on it it still didn't change ANYTHING I've narrowed down to my oxygen sencer an the exhaust an the mass flow air senceri had to run straight pipes on witch done away with the cats so I'm figuring it's between the mfs an oxygen sencers in the ecm I changed every sencer in it but the cam sencer everything else is new I'm just tired of putting money in it I really am thx for the advice GB
I know this is an older video but quit guessing and use a scantool to look at live data. If you get one that can access the vehicle modules it's worth the additional cost over a bargain basement reader.
I put a new mass airflow sensor and the truck runs rough when i put the plug on.
You should do a video on cleaning the throttle body on both suburbans.
did you find out the problem , we are waiting .
Still waiting 😪
Did ur fuel trims climb both short & Long? I have a both banks lean on my 5.3L... isn’t like it’s a vacuum leak.
What was the issue?
clear the cods first , then start , the code you ade should go , then chick for fuel pressure because fuel pumps tends to fail on these cars .
Sure it’s fixed by now. But it’s likely the fuel injector. “Spider” fuel injector. Not too bad to replace your sled either.
Yes in order to get new and more life out of these is change the Spider injection system fuel regulator while in there crank shaft sensor fuel pump and you have a new truck.
So what was the issue
hi 1 Road hey Jimmy did you check the fuel pump when you turn the key on the sea at the fuel pumps pumping
Have you checked for spark? Spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid into intake after mass air flow meter (MAF) and see if it starts. Maybe fuel pump not working. You are in So. Cal. now and pay $3.50 a gallon of fuel and at 11-12 mi per gal you might like to save some money on parts to pay for fuel. Besides i hate random parts swapping. An intake leak, I could not imagine one large enough to keep from starting, so I believe you are wasting your time changing intake gaskets because of no start. Once you get started and fuel trims are off you might need to do this as you are right, this is a common problem on the Chevy.
Good vlog!
Can you I am getting a p1516 code on my 2003 chevy tahoe 5.3...Thanks
i really miss the sharp 4k quality, the contect is still good tho :D
Fuel pump
Try changing your fuel filter! Possible that you may not be getting enough pressure.
My fuel pressure is 42 psi is that good or bad ? Tahoe doesn't run good
Bad..i.think 61 to 66 is when it's got good. Pressure..42 is.low..fuel.pump filter
DELPHI can be ordered here in LA i just tried it said it would let me
Ebay still has one cheaper as well for 91$ shipped ( because no sales tax)
Just need 2 more cans of SeaFoam!
I think the fuel pump is not supplying fuel to the engine.
It's could be your fuel pump
Why not test the old mass air flow sensor to see if any good
Wow I didn't watch the video until end before I made my comment, after I saw the FAKE box.......But maybe that is the reason why it didn't start.........How did things turn out by the way?
California only MAF?
Ca Emission is why they can’t send it to Cali.
I can only surmise it's not carb approved for California. Unless it's marked AC delco. Just a guess.
Disconnect the battery before install.
DELPHIE ! Lmao dude I’d pronounce DEL-F EYE, and AC Delco, is Delphi! There was one in Flint !
Can other Silverado/Tahoe owners chime in : if you unplug your MAF sensor harness, does the engine stay running?
Yes but rough! Barely runs without throttle
So when i unplug mine it idles higher, byr stage 2 truck and all supporting mods tuned on 91, geting a stuttering shift into 2nd and also sometimes on grabbin gas to pass.. performa built trans..its in fuel/fire, i been thinkin maf cause seems to run a lil rich...any idea..
@@steves5355 if it runs after you disconnect the MAF means it’s bad if it cuts off it’s working. But when changing yourself it will take computer 20 miles or so to readjust.
FUEL PUMP
Look into your temp sensor.
try the map sensor
Y’all it’s $210 now on amazon from that link😂
My truck wont start unless my foots on the brake... I bet that's what it was, right?
Delf-EYE.
prob the fuel pump
it would still start with an intake leak just runs like crap sound like a verey weak fulepump i couldent even here the f pump cycle when u were tryin to start it
I suspect fuel issue , takes a few cranks to fire up.. and oh i couldnt help to notice your running you tank real low on the last video...fuel pressure & the pump definitely needs some investigating
Its 67 on autozone
Fuel.... check for fuel problems
It's not pronounced del-fee. It's pronounced del-fi.
Thank you.. he's killing me with that.
I try to give this guy advice constantly. I don't think he reads YT comments- probably one of those Facebook people. Oh, well.
Wrong
Ok- point out one reply to anyone's comments here by Jimmy.
Delco is the same company as del phi
It's emissions in California
Sounds like a fuel relay problem
Your gonna foul the plugs if you keep trying like that probably a fuel pump or something in the ignition.
Reason they wouldn't ship it there is because of California emissions standards...
It is not pronounced Delphee. It is with a hard I, like Delpheye. I grew up in a city where there were 8 Delphi electronics plants employing thousands. As well as AC/DELCO plants. Basically, they are the same, both GM.
Delphi - pronounced "Delf-eye".
skiggy007 dell fiy
Crankshaft Sensor
Ok, 5 year old video and all, but, "Delphi" is not pronounced "del-fee", it is pronounced "del-fi", with "eye" at the end, not "ee".
Otherwise good video!
Thanks. 👍
CA has stricter testing regulations for products sold there. If it won't ship to CA but will ship to other states, I bet that's why. The cheaper one probably failed the California Prop 65 specs (has to do with environmental protection and human exposure to certain chemicals).
Its delf eye not delfee
Create a problem, create a video, get responses and views.
Throw that honeycomb thing in the garbage