DOES MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR CLEANER ACTUALLY WORK?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I test weather or not mass air flow sensor cleaner actually works. Stay tuned to the very end of the video for surprising results!
CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner: amzn.to/2N0QyNj
Delphi Mass Air Flow Sensor: amzn.to/2C2bNtP
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Make sure you watch to the end for surprising results!
How has the MAF done since?? I'm getting the same code, same symptoms.
Is there alternative to the MAF Sensor cleaner? Is there any other cleaner/spray i can use?
@@shephafun9320 Carb cleaner, brake cleaner
@@mistermatsuda , some other channels run by professionals say definitely not. they leave residues. which is the very reason to clean the thing in the first place. to remove the gradual build-up of residues over time.
It's consensus that cleaning usually works temporary only.
I know this is an old video but I wanted to say that if you’re ever stranded and you assume it’s the mass air sensor you can unplug it and the engine will start. The ECU then runs in an open loop condition but it will run.
Great info.
What is open loop?
Yes, it will run, I tested it, but depending on the car, wheater etc, it may run with less power, still ...
it will run.
Yep I've done that
My Z4 has a wobbly idle at start. Tried cleaning sensor, made no difference. If i unplug it, engine runs normal idle. Ordered a new sensor. But tempted to try another clean for the sake of £6 ($8).
I’m a store manager at O’Reilly auto parts and over the years I am a firm believer in all crc products. I have tested out a bunch and have seen a lot tested. Great product. It speaks for itself
Why is it so pricy?Same size can at Walmart is only $3.99 at your store Oreally is $9 plus tax.
@@efrensaclolo7021 I just checked Walmart's website . The price is $14.21 plus tax . On O'Reilly website $6.49 plus tax .
@@efrensaclolo7021 depends where you live & local, state & federal taxes. It could be 4.99 here in California & 8.99 in Texas more likely more in California but taxes play big part.
Such a ripoff. $9 bux a gawddam can. Fux dat. Fuxxit.
Probably costs more for the container and shipping than the actual chemical cleener.
Such a pfukkan rippofff. Fux it.
I was told that this should not be used on a Cardon MAF sensor, but I find that hard to believe.
Any one have info on that ?
After cleaning the mass air flow sensor in all the places shown in the video, my gas mileage improved by about 2 mpg. After changing the PCV valve and spark plugs, it went up a couple more mpg. Before, I'd almost never get 30 mpg; it was more like 27 or 28. Now it's 30-32.
I used it on my MAF sensor, when I removed the sensor it was covered in oil and dirt. After cleaning it the car had more pick up and power.the gas mileage increased considerably. This was done on a 2011 Lexus GS 350. I also cleaned the throttle plate as well.🙌🏽🙌🏽
Did you wipe the oil down with something or clean the inside with something or only use the maf cleaner and not touch the inside at all?
If you have not already done so, get the throttle body and air intake cleaner from CRC and clean out the carbon buildup on the air intake as well. You'll see improvements in power and helps to steady out a rough idle.
Took mine to chevy to clean throttle body. I shouldve done it myself because somehow they made it worse. I'm soooo mad😡
Yes I used the same product on my 2007 Silverado. I used to have a rough idle. Cleaning worked. I also cleaned the throttle body.
Funny story. I had the same issue when I moved to Arizona. I towed a trailer and after about 400 miles I started getting an engine light and a stabilatrac alarm. One of the codes was for a MAF sensor. So I cleaned the sensor with the CRC MAF cleaner and it fixed both errors. Haven’t had an issue in three years. So it does actually work.
Chris that is good to know. I live in Arizona too and am having problems with my Yukon. Check engine light is on intermittently. Diagnosis was MAS. I saw on Google that you can clean it. I am going to try to do it myself. I hope that I can get that gray clip off and unscrew the rest of it. Wish me luck.
saved me 8 minutes. thanks
Another tip: If you run a K&N filter you need to clean it more often because of the filtering oil spray sticking to the airflow meter.
I've been using a K&N air filter on my 07' F150 for a few years and never cleaned the MAF sensor. Truck still runs great, but I'm gonna clean it now to see if any difference can be observed.
Watch comparison videos of K and N filters vs paper filters.
A good tip if you use K&N filters is to rip me out, throw em away and get a good quality filter that actually keeps dirt out.
I was thinking that the other day. I run a k&n filter and it probably needs to be cleaned
Straight up if you’re using a Canon air filter with the oil and you have a mass airflow sensor do not use it get a dry reusable air filter that is the worst thing you can do to your mass airflow sensor
I have used it and on the same tahoe more than once. It has never left me stranded. It has always worked. It probably should be part of our regular scheduled maintenance!
YES IT WORKS!! I bought a 1990 Toyota pickup that sat for over 5 years. It started hard, idling problems, hesitation while accelerating. Cleaning the MAF took care of all those problems and helped me rule out far more costly and time consuming problems.
Yes, it works... I normally would use it on a car with MAF related performance issues though, not really one that won't start. Also, yes you really need to hold the starter engaged a bit longer, 3 seconds should suffice. You're not going to hurt anything...
I clean my MAF every time I change my air filter. It’s especially important if you live in humid environments, as the elements oxidize (rust, in effect), and whatever slips through the filter gets baked on the heated wires and glazes them, throwing the readings off. Inaccurate air readings leads to poorer mileage.
What your issue sounds like to me is crank/cam position sensor(s), and possibly the MAP sensor...those sensors give the engine timing and fuel delivery information too.
(Got any vacuum leaks? Upper and lower intake manifold gaskets are infamous for developing them due to heat cycle aging...which is why they hammer on us for coolant system maintenance)
My '96 Town Car was starting to get sluggish. Found some other vids about cleaning the MAF sensor. I'm a guitar player so I always have a can of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner that many claim is the exact same stuff that's in the CRC MAF Cleaner. I cleaned the MAF and HOLY SHIT yes! Motor pops right off and the 4.6 liter V8 now has that increased horsepower. I cleaned the contacts as well.
SDSs look somewhat different between the two but in the end what really matters is that you spray some on something and it evaporates quickly leaving nothing behind. If you can get the MAF cleaner then get it. Otherwise, a quick drying residue free contact cleaner based on a mix of short chain hydrocarbons and isopropyl alcohol is good enough. Where i live, i can only get the latter and used it with no problem.
I just did this for My fiancé’s 2006 Santa Fe. It was running rough had a P0134 and a P0154 code. I didn’t think it would work but a OEM part was running in the $300 range so I decided to give it a shot. The car is running fantastically and the lights have not come back on. Very pleased with the result.
Mind you, i had the same issue with starting only on the second time, and the issue was a faulty fuel pump relay. Replaced it with a new relay and everything went back to normal. Cleaning the MAF only helped to remove juddering and restore original torque at the lowest rpm range.
Did exactly that and reborn my car, had poor torque, loss of strength, low revving max, poor ignition etc. After the cleaning the MAF all that gone away. Ford, btw
My 2005 Subaru Impreza, had a slight surging when cruising at 30 mph on a level road and the idle speed was a touch high and went up and down just a bit. I used about a third of a can of CRC and the car is running better than it has for years. The mass air flow meter elements didn't look dirty, but I guess they were coated with something because the difference after cleaning was amazing. That's the best 10 bucks I ever spent on my car.
I bought a can, and no more worries. I dropped 4 codes after I sprayed it down good. No problems or codes since I used this same can of mass air flow cleaner.
thx, i will try it ...i use month ago one different and from this i have this issue every second time.....before only one time (P 174 code ) ,
I just bought my new can for almost $10, after I spray on my car, it started right away with no hesitation ! Great !
Definitely! My 1996 GMC Savana had a really high idle, like 2000 RPM in Park and Nuetral! Then I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, and I was really shocked to find it worked. I had spent many hours looking for vacuum leaks, and pondering the entire system. Sometimes you really have to back up and think basic!
csipes1983 I just ran into this. I passed someone and right after I got back in the lane my car stopped running right. Started running diagnostics. Found failed check valve in the fuel pump. A couple injectors seemed to be weeping a bit so I cleaned them. Lower intake manifold was leaking. Did plugs just because. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, intake manifold, and supercharger as much as I could. After that it was doing the same thing, but it was starting now. Hooked up the scan tool and looked at the data from some sensors and with the engine off the MAF reading was jumping all over the place.
I have used this exact product in my 05 Ford Explorer, and it made a huge difference in starting faster, idling smoother, and the throttle response improved , as well.
Pretty good video.... I have worked on many vehicles in my travel. Cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor is easy Make sure you use the correct spray for that. Other sprays will leave a residue on the MAF sensors. Do NOT touch the sensors inside the MAF. Make sure it is dried before it's reinstalled. To test a Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) Start Car. Disconnect wire connector to MAF. If engine stops. MAF - is working. If engine run - MAF is BAD. Another part to check is the Idle Air Control Valve. (IAC valve). It sticks also. Another easy item to clean is the throttle body. Use the proper cleaner for that too. You vehicle will run much better...
I would recommend that in addition to cleaning the air flow sensor, that you change the air filter, but you should also ensure that the inside of the air filter housing is free of debris. An air compressor will do a good job of clearing it. Also, inside most filter housings, there is a mesh screen or filter which needs to be cleaned out. The reason for all this is because the air that passes thru the air flow sensor must first pass thru the air filter, hence, its need for it to be replaced as needed.
Funny you me tion that as I was going to make the same comment as on my '05 Yukon XL the week after changing my air filter & removing an accumulation of dirt in the recesses of the air box with a shop vacuum & air compressor my truck threw this code. I figured it could be an issue but I didn't have MAS cleaner on me at the time. I should have put something over that same honeycomb intake before I started cleaning the air box, or just made sure I had MAS cleaner on hand.
I would say that cleaning the AIR FILTER would also help.
Replacing it
I've once got a car that accelerated poorly from a full stop. Filter was clean and spark plugs were new and still the problem was there. Had the MAF sensor cleaned and it ran better afterwards.
Worked great. Check engine light off for $10 and 10 minutes!
Awesome video dude, I love the reality and everyday situations a person may encounter that you captured in your videos. Never mind the negativity in some of the comments about starting your SUV, you don't need to hold the key in start for long, only for a second is sufficient enough to engage the starter motor to rotate the fly wheel and start your engine, continuous rotation of the starter motor on the fly wheel, will only burn out the starter. My question is, how long did you take, after you sprayed the mass air flow sensor, before you re-installed it, (how much time did you give it to fully dry before you re-installed it)?
I'm From across the Pond. And yes a MAF sensor can cause this problem and worse. I have a 2002 Vauxhall Omega 2.2 Automatic Petrol, and back in May 2018 I was traveling 62 miles to friends, when the revs went up to 5,000 and came back down with a bump, this put the Engine management light on and gearbox cog light on. Which in turn put the car into limp mode, with the limp mode light on. Stayed with friends for the evening then left for home, well the same problem happened several times in the way home. I stopped a few times switch the car off removed the key put it back in and the car started again eventually I got home. A friend fitted his fault code scan tool to my car and it showed 5 different faults with the MAF sensor top of the list. he said The MAF fault has caused all the others clean that and see how it goes. Well like magic it started and was is running fine. He said clean your Air Filter while your at it, because muck is coming from there to the MAF sensor, it was very dusty. My car is running as it should. So always go for the simple repairs first and use a scan tool. MAF sensors can affect so many other sensors. Oh and lastly a good running engine shouldn't need excessive cranking.
I love the smell of mass air flow sensor in the morning. Smells like, victory.
Charlie don't surf!
Lol, you made me laugh! 😄
@@billydamnit You surf or you fight. Make your decision.
so did replacing it resolve the issue, or did it turn out to be something completely different like the fuel pressure regulator?
I have used Electronic Contact Cleaner with great results; Congrats!
the sensor getting dirty is absolutely a thing. almost every modern car has the crankcase breather routed to the air filter housing between the filter and throttle body, witch introduces oil vapor and residue to the intake track almost directly onto your M.A.F
Cone filters like K&N uses oil in filter that also could get to MAF. At least this was my case.
Umm sorry bro,but they don’t route the crankcase breather tube prior to the MAF. They come in downstream in the intermediate tube or MIT.
@@liquidsmokemustang1537 the pvc valve is definitely routed to the manifold, the crankcase breather that draws in fresh filtered air definitely draws said air from the air filter box, its that 1/2in or 3/4in vacuum line that runs from the valve cover to the intake box. at least on my 2014 200, my buddies dodge ram and other vehicles ive worked on. under high rpm or if you have some ring wear the blow by will overload the pcv valve, slightly pressurize the crankcase and blow oil laden vapor into the intake track.
@@anthonyhewgley5543 Okay, I’ll take your word for it. Weird that Dodge would run it there. On my ‘15 Mustang GT it connects about 3 inches prior to the throttle body. You might look for an oil separator, sometimes called a catch can on that line.
@@liquidsmokemustang1537 2nd that catch can. Certain engine setups are more prevalent to blow by, not so much on the ls but my vq motor is notorious for it. Put in a catch can and no more blow by going back into combustion.
Congrats. Those 3 small sensor wires probably are super sensitive to dust / pollution coatings. Just cleaned mine with the same product. 1996 Astro van, 4.3 liter. Been getting a slight misfire at cruising speed and have thrown a lot of parts at that already. I noticed on my MAF on the side module, 3 slits in the plastic that were full of grunge. After blasting with the cleaner, shiny metal parts are visible. I'll bet these are functional as well and cleaning out the slits should be part of the process? Did a before and after readout of MAF at 3 different RPM values with my scan tool. After cleaning, the MAF values at 2000 and 2400 went up about 8 %. Proof of improvement in my book.
Also have a look at the LTFTs. They should be decreasing.
I'm sorry but you need to learn how to start a car😂 hold the damn key down till it starts
yea turned the key for a split second. i think u turn it till it sounds like its running unless it is the fuel pump then u turn it till the battery goes dead
He owns a company that makes starters, so...
My g6 you do not hold the key down you tap it over....
Yeah that's a good idea hold the key down run the battery too low which will increase the current flow and burn out your starter that's a really good idea!!! Du-mass
cursing also works too.
Oh god, I got to the end of this video, and then the text how the CAR DIDN'T GO again came up. I felt like I had just watched the RED WEDDING ending on Game of Thrones, that - OMG MOMENT, THAT - OMG OMG OMG MOMENT lol
Short answer, Yes!
Reason: My 97 pickup truck developed a rough idle over time, no idea why, and I would get a check engine light periodically stating a misfire, but only when idling. Already had a new air filter in it, and I knew it wasn't the Fuel pump, Fuel Pressure regulator, Spark Plugs (had just replaced them), Distributor cap (also already replaced), or sparkplug wires (replaced when doing distributor cap and spark plugs). Literally only thing left was the MAF. Bought a can of MAF sensor cleaner for 10$, and used half the can on it. Re-installed it, waited a few minutes to dry, and fired the truck up. Had 0 idle issues sense then.
Yeah, I've cleaned the MAF sensors with my Dodge Caravans over the years and it keeps them running like a top. Mind you, I don't wait until they won't start before I clean them. Once I feel the idle revving a bit too low and the engine start to hiccup, that's when I clean it out. I also do the same with the throttle body. Most people don't realize how badly gunked up the throttle bodies get and how much of an impact a dirty throttle body will have on your car. Especially with these modern "fuel efficient" cars, the throttle bodies tend to get dirty really badly and really fast and most people are totally oblivious to it. Also, replace your PCV and air filter once in a while!
I just recently cleaned my maf sensor. No check engine light but it felt a little doggy on acceleration. Not much but noticeable. MPG’s was down a little. Hooked up my tuning device and seen my g/s was at 34. Cleaned the maf and it put it back to the 40 g/s. This is on a 07 lbz duramax. Now the pickup runs great again. And MPG’s are back to better than it has been in a long time.
My 03 Regal was running fine. I have a K&N air filter which uses an oiled gauze filtration so I cleaned my maf sensor (88k) ever. Didn’t look too bad just a little dark. Cleaned until it became new and shiny looking. Engine runs smoother than ever, can feel an increase in power and gas mileage. An overlooked part of a tune up that really does make a difference and is quite easy to perform.
I did it as a preventative measure, along with the air filter and throttle body. Have fun if it ends up being the fuel pump.
Des420 I always test my pump it’s easy just let your tank get really low until the gas light comes on I know this is not good to do to the pump could burn it out but if the pump can keep the vehicle running on a low tank then you know it’s got good pressure a failing pump won’t be able to pump with really low gas level in the tank
Just did this today and worked perfectly!
LOL I absolutely love the disclaimer in the beginning that's a G move 😂🤣😂🤣😂
You could also simply crank until it starts. No engine just "blips" into running, ya know. If over 3 seconds- that would be considered "Extended Crank" and after 5 seconds "No start". Flipping the starter like that, for dramatic purposes or in real life- is risking chipped teeth on the flex plate and/or starter.
What? Which video are you watching?
I'm watching a video of a guy named Jimmy, that is producing a video of how his vehicle won't start correctly until he uses a cleaning product on the MAF, and I commented (with 8 thumbs up so far in agreement) that continuing to blip the starter like that (even for melodramatic video purposes) *@**0:15* can easily chip teeth on the starter and/or Flex plate.
*ANOTHER* zero Sub/zero content Troll infesting my Inbox? Blip your own key like that- _assuming_ you have a car- and it will do damage. 19 others agree. Tell all of them stfu.
He is a freakn DORK. LMAO
My car starts like that. Come over to the 21st century my man.
😂😂😂😂 you could hold the key a little longer for the starter to turb the engine a few rotations
You are just blipping the starter, maybe for dramatic effect? An maf being dirty shouldn't stop an engine from running. Was this just ad for CRC?
Agreed if it's just not running hes got other problems fluctuations and such could be the maf
A bad maf will cause no start if bad enough.
Yeah, a dirty maf can cause a long crank time.
Jay G no you’re wrong MAF sensor can cause all kinds of issues it can stop you from being able to shift into gears and stalls and no starts and a number of other issues there’s a reason it’s at your air breather amazing how such a simple device can effect so many things
Maf can cause the car not to start. Maf causes plenty of issues
My 98 Tahoe doesn't have a problem yet, but I will now clean mine just in case. Thanks for the info.
I don't think the problem is the dirty sensor, the problem is you don't know how to start a car, you don't let go the key in split second, you hold it till it starts.
just commented the same thing.
Yo till it’s goes flat aye
Depends on the car. Many newer cars a single turn will auto start it. And the car even knows to try again if it fails the first time still on that single turn and release of the key. This isnt the 90s anymore.
Hahahaha sooo true
My 2006 Toyota Corolla was idling rough at stop lights I sprayed the air flow sensor and it idles good now so I believe it should be done periodically thanks for your videos I appreciate it
Delphi is pronounced Del f eye, it's the new name for carburation manufacturing in Rochester, NY for General Motors since early 2000
Being from Rochester, I kind of forgot about Delphi..lol
Everything about an engine starting and running can be summarized by my Dad's saying.
"If it is getting fuel, a good strong spark and it's in time, it will run." Good basic advice. A few nuances exist, but always go thru that triage and it will lead to a good diagnosis.
I have used it for a long time it definitely works but you should have left it to dry for at least a couple of hours before putting it back on the car
I let mine dry only a little. I told myself if the stuff is good at cleaning then the residue will only add to more cleaning as the engine sucks it up till dry. runs so good afterwards
Waited 30 minutes
You can use any cutting fluid to clean a MAF sensor, methylated spirits, carb or brake cleaner, certain alcohols, nail varnish remover etc etc, basically anything that will cut through the oily scum that coats the tungsten wire inside the body, even a bath in petrol will work. There's no need to buy anything special. If cleaning doesn't work its because the sensor has gone open circuit, or bacause the little thermistor has failed, most vehicles don't give separate DTC codes to tell you what part has failed so it's trial and error, usually cleaning is enough though in most cases.
I heard leaving residue on there isn’t good but whatever floats your boat homie
@@BrandenBlackford The amount that any of these products leaves behind is miniscule and has no effect on the operation. Like I said the sensor is basically just a short length of solid tungsten wire that has an electrical current passed through it until it gets hot, the air passes over it when the engine is running and cools it to varying degrees depending on the engine speed, this in turn alters the electrical resistance which then gives the ECU its measurement. Any deposits from solvents or alcohol are likely to just get burnt off anyway, engine oil on the other hand is heavy and will over time form a burnt on gunge that in effect insulates this wire meaning an accurate reading is impossible, luckily the ECU is programmed to recognise that the resistance is out of an acceptable range for a given number of rpm's which is why you get a DTC.
The CRC Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner does, in fact, work. Moreover, if you’re using an oiled gauze air filter, like a K&M, these tend to coat the fine sensor wires in a film of oil over time; setting off the check engine light; thus requiring cleaning.
It is important NOT to touch these wires, at all. Not with a Q-Tip - not with anything. Thanks for the good videos!
Having a clean MAF always helps. As well as having all other systems clean to.
Yes, the K&N piece of sh_t mess more MAF's then most realize.
The only good thing a K&n filter did for me, was to lower the price of a car I bought. :-)
The moron boy racer trow a K&N in there, when the problems arise. He sold the car I got it with a "nice discount" because of the problems. Drove home, upon arrival send the K&N to where it belong (trash can) clean it all. New decent air filter and I had a much cheaper car, running like new. LOL :-)
Alcohol and q tips make a perfect way to clean the MAF. If you know what you're doing. No press, no push, no pull. Just gently wipe the surfaces and voilá just as new. ;-)
Cheers
The honey comb structure is not what needs to be cleaned. You just need to clean the little resistor, coiled pieces of wire you showed in your video. When dirty, they look sort of hairy and you can see like fuzz on them. You spray them to get them clean. Sometimes if bad you can use a soft brush bur be careful not to break them. I have never had a MAF keep a car from starting. Usually poor idle or terrible running when pushing throttle.
I just cleaned my wife's Civic using (CRC) QD electronics cleaner and it worked too.
I use electronics cleaner too....
Great simple video. Very easy to understand even when I don't speak english to native language.
Worked great for my 2004 avalanche.
Big thanks from finland!!!
That starting procedure was appalling. Starter needs to be engaged for much longer. No wonder it won't start 😂
THANK YOU! Who tf taught this man to flick the damn starter?? It's a testament to GM that he even gets anything started. Twist the key, release once you hear several combustion cycles or 10 seconds have passed. Wait 1 minute, repeat until you get successful suck, squeeze, bang, blow.
My 2001 tundra SR5 gained MPG after cleaning MAFS, but get this, I had a upper o2 sensor and transmission code pop up, trans code! What’s up with this, I was told the torque converter is incorporated into the emissions system, so I went on u tube and searched for a plan of attack, I found a lab guy, listened to him for 20 minutes and gathered this, it all starts at the air breather ( air filter ) and ends at the tail pipe, so I start at the air filter, it’s good, then I go to the MSFS, it is dirty, I clean the MAFS and two days later check engine light is off and no codes, what I gathered from the lab guy is the culprit is usually some part that is before the part that pulls up the code, 😎
I just use CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. The stuff I use for cleaning electric guitar volume and tone knobs. Works like a charm.
Brake cleaner good too
@get lost The reactivity to plastic is about the same, however the volume dispersion from the nozzle is a concern for delicate wire, but if you are not too aggressive and you are in a jam, , like I have been numerous times, brake cleaner will do. Very few suppliers stock MAFC where I am,, ☘️
A local shop wanted to replace the MAF sensor, and catalytic converter in my 2004 f150 for $1044. I ran seafoam through my vacuum system, and cleaned my MAF sensor. Wow! No codes, and no check engine light! Less than $20, problem solved!
I have a 99 cobra that would break up on the higher RPM and it would bog then rev when I hit the gas. Sprayed it and works great.
Keeping MAF Sensor Clean will Improve Gas Mileage and Better Engine Performance
nice vid, I'm going through the same thing. Dont know if it needs cleaning or replacement. Going to clean first. 2007 Audi A4 Avant
The MAFS cleaner does work ... but the element wires in the MAFS that do the work are not all there is... The connectors on the MAFS and on the wiring harness end can get corroded, like any electrical connection. So a spritz on both those connection points and allow to dry completely (about a minute... max.) is cleaning all the electrical parts of a MAFS.
You know I know this is a four-year-old video but hey man! I was so happy to to see all the work you did and than you were rewarded when you saw that it worked, happiness shows it's happiness given, it's very cool 🎉 to see that moment you shared with us, thanks I appreciate it that, Salúd
I mean. I do agree with the comments about the crank sounding suspicious. But I must admit. I am watching this video hours after using this exact product on my 2000 Yukon 5.3 MAF sensor.
The last couple of weeks. It’s had a very weird idle. High then low high then low. Thought maybe due to the 10 degree weather we’ve been having. Few days ago. Did the same thing in much warmer weather. But it also wanted to die while driving. And twice it was going down the road in drive and just revved when on throttle. Out of randomness. I bought this product. And of course the new sensor its self so I didn’t have to make two trips.
Tried the cleaner on the old sensor first. We now have 15 degree weather. And it’s driving and idling just fine.
I believe it does actually work. I will update my comment in a few days if it was just a temporary fix or if it’s still good
Please do. Would love to hear if it still fixed!!
It’s been two days now, and it’s still running strong due to this cleaner
I know my comment is 3 yrs old but I had the same issue on my 5.3 and my 4.2 envoy, I cleaned the throttle bodies on both they were pretty dirty in the air passages and cleaned the mas sensor, it cleared the engine surge on both engines and ran just fine afterwards...
Delphi (pronounced with a long "I", so Delf-eye) used to be AC Delco, which also used to be AC Spark Plugs. Also, Delco Electronics fit in there somewhere too. My qualifications for knowing this? Dad used to work and retired from there a few years before their bankruptcy :D
I have many delfines in may truck engine
I was thinking it was a different brand from ac delco but it didn't make to much sense for me that im not coming across that brand so often
Is pretty much what its in the truck now 03 avalanche
And i always thought about Delfin been a good high quality brand
Delphi..
I called Delfin... De Cariño...
Another note... My understanding is that the reading to the computer is trended so when you clean it the signal being sent can be so drastic that the car freaks out a bit till you build up some good/consistent data. Point is that I think the performance will get better over a little time compared to the fresh start following the cleaning process.
You are a 100% right and nobody else has made this point yet. I'm assuming it's from experience that you know that. Because when I took mine out and cleaned it the car kind of acted the same as before about a day and a half two days later it was running great. But it's good to have confirmation on something that I only guessed at
I have a Mitsubishi L200 that was smoking out the back very badly. My MAF sensor is slightly different to yours, but as heard it “could be” the MAF sensor I thought I would give it a clean. After a spray, I took it out and not a hint of smoke out the back. So yes, it’s important to keep that thing clean. 👍
Tried this and gained 3-4 miles per gallon on my truck and a friends truck. WOW is right!!!!!
Just cleaned my MAF sensor on my Buick Verano (2013) before it was jumping at idle, sometimes turning off at red lights , reduce engine power , rough idling etc, just cleaned it this morning before work and I drove it around a little after. Still jumping and stopped once. Started back up easily though so hopefully when I leave work it’s kinda ran thru the system and work even better
0:35
Oh, com'on. Just get on with it!
🤣🤣🤣
all b/s from opening the garage door to eat up time .. then bla bla bla
I wanted to tell you something guys I permitted my son & did the spraying cleaning to the sensor ring in details but before that he disconnected the negative cable from the car' s battery then when he finished he reassembled everything & now I'm satisfied hope probably check light won't come back on but if it does he said that he will changed the sensor for me he really is so nice with his viiieeejjjooo .
Could the throttle body be cleaned in addition to the mass air sensor?
You know who would have known the answer to this? Yes, the Oracle of Del-fee : )
The local mechanic does change only airfilter and oil change and does not clean MAF sensor everytime car is given for service. It is customer who has to educate himself and know the importance of MAF sensor cleaning and get it done for improved performance of engine and mileage.
yes it does work i used Halford's electrical contact cleaner £3.99 on my mk5 golf SDI MAF sensor. The car would only idle would not rev thanks for making the video saved me ££££££
Good job i just reserved some Contact cleaner to clean my dirty Maf sensor
Your only supposed to use Mas airflow sensor cleaner nothing else.
Question. Why did you order a new MAS if you weren't sure that was what was causing the starting issue?
Always use MAF cleaner and nothing else. The MAF sensor basically heats up under operation and the computer senses the resistance which correlates to Temp. Its tough for the computer to get a accurate measurement of air flow and temp if there is 70k worth of build up insulating the resistors. Peace!
Used quick drying residue free electronics cleaner on a Bosch hot film MAF and had absolutely no problem. Unfortunately it seems you can't find that stuff (CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner) outside of the US. Parts stores here just don't have a clue and try to sell brake, carb and throttle cleaners for the job and not even mechanics tend to touch MAFs as a result, they just replace them. What you want to really look for in the MSDS of a MAF cleaning suitable product is a formulation with short-chain hydrocarbons (C5, C6, C7) and alcohols. No long-chain ones (>C7), these ones definitely leave a nice oil film behind, because they have a high boiling point. This implies that plain WD-40 and anything like it is definitely out of discussion here.
@@teravolt6113 That's good to know about the M(SDS) and hydrocarbon length!
@jud dude "here" is Southern Europe. Unfortunately, i can only find QD Electronic Cleaner style products even on Ebay, unless i want stuff to be shipped from overseas (very expensive)... the guy at one parts store i went to (other stores just didn't have a clue, they didn't even know that a MAF could be cleaned) wanted to sell me brake cleaner for the job even though he had quick drying contact cleaner right on the shelves... (ended up buying that one and instructing the guy about the fact that brake cleaner was a wrong wrong choice for cleaning a MAF)
@jud dude Have a look at the MSDSs yourself. MAF sensor cleaner and most no residue contact cleaners including the one i used seem pretty the same to me formulation-wise. Short chain hydrocarbons and some alcohol, and nothing more. The residue leaving ones tend to have C11 hydrocarbons, jet fuel basically
Main thing is to make sure it dries completely before reinstalling. It's not a bad idea to clean it every other oil change, it helps with fuel economy! It doesn't respond as fast when it's gooped up!
Good Vid,
I'm more convinced than ever I need to clean the Mass Air Sensor on my Tacoma. Have noticed a real significant drop in MPG lately.
I have religously repalced Air Filters when needed, but was unaware of the Need to clean this Vital Component. After watching this Vid and several others I now have a much better understanding of how the Air Intake and associated system operates.
I recommend this Video. Shows a good example of some easy to accomplish work that most anyone with some Mechanical aptitude can help themselves do a little routine Maintenance and most likely save themselves some Money.
Do this every 2-3 years and your car will be happy.
Yes about the same period as transmission/brake fluid change.
I had same issue on my 05 Buick. Turns out the throttle body was dirty. Clean it out good and it works great now.
I don’t think you would have a no start with a dirt maf, and those engine cranks sounded suspicious like you were intentionally making sure it wouldn’t start, if you would have unplugged the maf and tried to start it if that was the issue the pcm has a basic air/fuel ratio it would crank over and run on, maf cleaner is in my opinion something would use if your getting lean conditions in both banks and can’t find out what the issue is
DEATHMETALDUDE 666 actually a bad mass air flow sensor can cause to no start no run condition. My brother had a v8 Thunderbird thay would die and would
Not start. Took to ford. And still couldn’t find it. I ended up workin onnit for him and changed it out completely and started right up and ran fine. Put on one back on problem came right back.. so yes it can cause major issues
At first no but my old altima had a bad maf that after trying to turn it over again it wouldnt crank at all so its a plausible thing that can happen.
I can start my Silverado without the MAF connected.
If I cant figure the problem out with the MAF, ill change it out, plus the EGR, and any other sensor, tps, etc. Those vortec engines give me same problems on diferent makes and models og GM. Once I changed everything out on my 99 suburban, I had no more issues like that.
If you want MAF to stay clean longer, Stop using K&N filter, The oil in it slowly cling to the sensor and looses it sensitivity.Just use a good paper air filter.
I'm reading some of these comments, wow some people can be so cruel and judgemental thinking they know it all, but I want to say good video, I love it, thanks for a simple cool video
*Jimmy,,,,*
You forgot to mention *not to smoke* while working with this cleaner which is *-HIGHLY-* combustible.
My new Mazda 626 in early 2000 had an air flow meter problem just after warranty. The dealer from whom I bought the car said it needed a new air flow meter and I was charged £500+ labour. I wish your video was available then...to avoid being ripped off.
It works well. You should clean your throttle plate too with throttle body cleaner.
Gloves and respirator ?! What a cupcake !! Surprised you didn't tape off the area and put on your tyvek and steel toes !! Ha Ha !!
When my Suburban took two tries to start, it was the fuel pump not keeping pressure at the rail when it wasn’t running.
Zack and Kate Mobley Quick fix is to install an inline check valve. If the fuel pump still has good pressure anyway.
Just to put your mind at ease I think you mailed the problem because when I clean my mass air flow sensor the car was running better more pick up and more power better than when I first bought it. Incidentally I didn't even use mass air flow cleaner on it I use I use w d 40 with a soft brush and cotton. Worked g. Great. Video thanks
“Turns the key for 0.3 seconds”
“Doesn’t turn on”
🤦♀️
Exactly, what the hell was that? I was talking to my screen saying, "let it F'en crank for a bit!"...
Thanks for adding the reminder about using a RESPIRATOR (not a dust mask).
dust mask better than nothing
If like me you watched this during Covid 19 times, you'll most likely have some masks around the house anyway!😅
I blew my mine out with an air nozzle and worked a couple days. Then I cleaned it which worked a couple more days. I ended up just replacing it so I could pass a smog check. I think my K&N filter oil contaminated it so after that went back to paper filters and never had another problem with it.
Can a dirty MAF sensor cause the IACV to open more and allow more air in, leading to a higher idle speed ?
Same here
Used the CRC cleaner after getting a 2008 Suburban. Helped but in the end I still replaced the MAF and pigtail. If you catch the dirt early the cleaner will do it for you.
Of course it worked. As long as dirt is your problem it will work. Never use anything but Mass Air Flow cleaner. If you use brake clean or something like that you will ruin the sensor. I use CRC exclusively for my Audi. I clean the MAF every oil change.
Quick drying no residue electronic cleaner seems enough for the job by the way. In the end all that really matters with a MAF cleaning suitable spray is that it won't attack plastics and leave residues.
@The Joe Schmoe Show Best if it's 100% isopropyl alcohol. Ethyl alcohol seems to be hard on plastics and that's why you never find it in the composition of contact cleaners.
@@teravolt6113 is the MAF cleaner the same substance as contact cleaner? I just sprayed it in some 500kpots hoping to remove scratching
@@RagedContinuum Have a look at the MSDSs of both products yourself. Composition seems a little different but, functionally, they seem to be about the same (quick drying and no residue left after drying). If by pots you mean potentiometers, however, you also want a residue oil film (what you don't want from a MAF cleaner). And a residue oil film is left by long chain (>C8) hydrocarbons (which have a high boiling point).
12.8 MPG. And it constantly has problems. But hey, I like watching you fix it.