The Volvo S60R Gets A Cheap Stereo Upgrade (Is It Ruined?!)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มี.ค. 2019
- The stock head unit on this Volvo had to go. Click to subscribe! goo.gl/5JdIrC
The replacement unit is an android tablet made by ATOTO and it's the cheapest one available through Amazon. Replacing the stock HU-850 unit with this one meant that I will gain a lot more functionality, while losing the 6 disc CD-changer that I never bothered to use (what are CDs anyway?!)
The install was relatively straightforward but I did manage to produce a couple of problems in the end... Stay tuned for the next video to see if I've solved those problems!
Buy our t-shirts to support our builds!
teespring.com/stores/shifting...
Support us on Patreon!
/ shiftinglanes
Here are our other project cars on this channel:
Project Volvo C30 Civic Type R Slayer:
• Everything Wrong With ...
Project DadWagon Volvo V70R
• Our M3 Killing Volvo V...
Subaru BRZ:
• Project BRZ
For business inquiries email us:
contact@shiftinglanes.com
Follow us on social media:
/ shiftinglanes
drivetribe.com/t/shifting-lan...
/ shiftinglanes
/ shiftinglanes
Intro - "Bow and Arrow" - T-Mass
ncs.io/BowandArrowNS - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![BOWKYLION - เจ้านายคะ (work-life imbalance) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6bFj8G2pOi4/mqdefault.jpg)
.... So to start off..... DO SOME RESEARCH.... Yes, the car has an amp under the passenger seat for the speakers. Only speaker you're missing now with that head unit is your center one, which was wired straight to the HU..... I went GROM as others have posted, but if you want a smart stereo that actually fits the car with no CANBUS issues, Blue Power is the go too, and it runs Windows CE.
Also when reconnecting the battery, HAVE THE KEY IN POSITION II..... Any Volvo service manual will go over the proper way to disconnect, and reconnect the battery on these cars without having issues.
The Torque app is awesome on the fly, be weary of that adapter though, as it has fried some ECUs on these cars. it also will not show a full in depth scan of the car, like VIDA does, so any fuel issue, you'll need to plug in VIDA, as there's at least 5 components to it, that an OBD II reader will not be able to read.
Scosche makes a double DIN unit for the Volvo that is widely available, and more sturdy.....
I'm gonna be that guy, and say, you made an impulse buy thinking you were gonna get something better, rather then spending the time researching first, like how the real driver mod works, research and practice, before playing it out
Pinning this because of battery disconnect procedure.
Impulse buy? Definitely! This was cheap and worth the try. The reason why we got this Volvo was to try things out and learn from it, primarily autocrossing it and making it into a proper racecar. Which is coming up very soon!
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes cheap and worth the the try yet you spent a full day or more on it creating a long lasting headache and you will end up spending more in the long run. 10 min google or forum search goes a longggg way. Hopefully you guys have more practical videos coming up for this vehicle.
Ahhaah Rob 😘
Robert Varney I agree but the stereo in that car really kicks butt. You can’t get much out there that is better than the stock head unit. I think anyone that replaces their head unit made a huge mistake.
@@yourswedishboi4420 An HU 850 unit is so expensive and good, why remove it? Just get CDs for it
You should have gone through Crutchfield when dealing with Volvo vehicles. All you have to do is give them the info on your car along with the VIN and they will help you get the system that you want. They also provide all of the connectors and wiring harness items you will need for your volvo so it is a direct connect. No splicing, no mess. You will also get the face plate from them as well so everything goes together. They are also easy to reach when working on this as well. And along with everything you order you will get detailed instructions as well, which outlines the tools needed to do the job.
Now to address your SRS error code on your dash. Before working on your cars electrical system you needed to disconnect the battery terminals. This is why you have that error code. Now there is a trick to getting this cleared, 50/50 shot that it works. you will need to disconnect your battery terminals. Once both are disconnected put your positive and negative cable together and hold together for at least a minute or two. Then go ahead reconnect them to the proper terminals and tighten them down. Then go ahead and start the car. If the SRS light does not go out after 1 minute on the dash you will need to clear using a VIDA/DICE UNIT or a unit that has all of Volvo's functionality in it. The regular ODB II devices at the majority of the car parts stores will not work on Volvo. Matter of fact you guys mention that you use FCPeuro a lot. They sell a scan tool that is Volvo specific and does everything that VIDA/DICE does.
The Noise that you are getting is due to a faulty ground connection. Your best bet is to ground direct to something metal under the dash or inside the shifter unit.
Your Dash issue could be DIM related, if so it will most likely be the Motorola chipset that is the issue on it. Unless you are good at circuit board repair I would advise not to do it.
Let me know if you guys need any other help on your Volvo stuff as I have been a Volvo owner since that late 90's. I also have been a long time FCPeuro customer as well.
Contact me at rpiescik@weareoil.com, website: www.weareoil.com
Thanks for the fantastic advice. I did fix the hum/whine issue. The battery terminal trick is a good one I’ll have to try. I think the srs code was tripped because I forgot to plug the hvac back in when I tested the radio initially
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes What did you do to fix that whine noise? I have the same issue now
Hansen, for the love of God please don't try and upgrade the speakers. The "premium" trim level stereo in that car is top notch. The head unit & amp is Alpine and the speakers are Dynaudio. Put a GROM in it (30 minute install under $350) and you'll get Bluetooth streaming, and with an accessory cable, hands free phone through the stereo. Both phone call functions, song track and volume through the steering wheel.....and no codes! Get a 500 watt amp and stick a 10" in the trunk and you're rocking. As nice as the bling is, some of us Volvo fanatics believe the R was and still is perfect as is. It is your car though, and I look forward to future vids and performance enhancements. Thanks for turning me on to FCP, they Rock, and I just subscribed. Peace!
If you have the factory telephone module I would seriously recommend the new Bluetooth upgrade kit from VolvoCesky. For about 160 Euro's you can upgrade the existing telephone module with bluetooth connection and everything works like it was designed by Volvo (telephone book, Volvo factory microphone etc.). Works way better than a GROM unit (I've sold my GROM 2 months ago).
More info @ www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=261575
Interesting.. i have seen alots of aftermarket audios on older Volvos but never thought wht it would be like to install one. Great video
Antilaakeri it makes the R a lot more comfortable being able to use bluetooth features and apps
That's a nice mirror you've installed.
LMAO!
I had the same whine with the old fm transmitter. I actually used a grom Bluetooth adapter and it’s so nice. Sound is better than CD and I keep steering wheel controls and everything with no error codes. It pretends to be an external CD changer so it integrates in the stock radio very well and I don’t get the whine or anything. You may want to have something that wraps and insulates the wiring of the ground en everything to prevent any interference from the engine.
I believe I have the same head unit. My car had the option with the amplifier and ridiculous number of speakers. My issue I'm having lately is a whining noise. But it isn't only related to RPMs, and with a good tap with the palm of my hand I can get it to stop temporarily
Reset the SRS light with a Volvo specific tool. You should have disconnected the battery or not messed with the climate module
Our unit in the s60r we are restoring the radio drains our battery its shorted out so I'm deciding if I should upgrade or buy good used one.
Also, you reminded me about something I was going to do. Get some new Morel Tweeters and maybe some Hybrid 8.1 woofers for my car. Thanks!!
This is exactly the video i needed. Thank you very much for your amazing detailing. Giant help, appreciate it.
If you did not disconnect battery while taking off stereo, it can cause SRS airbag light. You need to use Vida to reset that. Also could have missed, but did you have din-rca conversion cable? HU-850 uses external amplifier. That does not have rca plug, it uses DIN connector
When you unplug the AC controls, the cars SRS codes come up and the power windows and locks don’t work. The way I fixed it was by first clearing the codes with a scanner, then by turning the car on all the way and pushing the windows and power lock buttons multiple times. Then the car re-learns and the windows and lock buttons work back to normal. This happens every time the radio is unplugged but mainly when the A/C controls are unplugged as well. Hope this helps 👍🏼
Estimado tengo el mismo auto, es normal que al desconectar se enciende la alerta de Airbag en cual conéctalo al scanner y borra las fallas y solucionas el problema, puedes mandar fotos de cuáles son los colores de conexión para la radio?
any chance you can post some links to the items you purchased ?
To get rid of the wind, you should get a demagnet signal reducer, like the kind you see for computers on the power cable. It is a like a hallow plastic cap that opens sideways, inside is a ferrous core like a magnet with no magnet energy, wrap your power in wire twice so it loops in and outside and back in then close the cap. You might want to do that around your alternator line, what it does is acts like a "sine Wave" catch filter by the ferrous core so you don't get the wizz noise. The wizze noise is the actual raw alternator energy. You might want to consider replacing your alternator or checking to see if your battery is getting old. The car battery usually catches that Raw energy on recharge, but if you alternator is producing that is usually a ground or a worn voltage regulator which is usually inside the alternator. I would start with doing a voltage check to see if there is a slightly higher voltage, if so, consider replacing the alternator, that will fix the voltage irregularity, and get rid of that noise, if it does not, then consider checking the battery, if you know the battery is good, check it anyways, a worn volt regulator will screw up a car battery to have a lesser capacity. Electricity is funny how it can screw with itself. But that demagnet cap (I don't know the technical name for it, but talk to a computer guru, tell him the "anti Sin-wave signal suppressor" from raw power outlets for computers ... that should get you in the right place, then good luck getting the right size. I hope that helps. If not, get a ground tail that you can connect to a ground point under the car, it is basically a dragging wire on the ground .. that helps with allowing a discharge outlet of static electricity that flows through the car chassi to go away from the car into the earth ... Just be advised that makes the car vulerable to lightening bolt damage ... So, pick and chose ... I personally like the wizz noise as long as I don't have to go pee .. I find it relaxing, little to relaxing .. good luck
hello did you fixed the steering wheal buttons? the srs is because you disconected climat control. and stuf with dim and elictrical problems was because of 2 wires green and white these wires is can comunication wires. the sound of alternator can be from chinese radio or the amp adapter.let me know when you fix the swt buttons i have same problem do not work thanks
The HU-850 was the best head unit you could get from the factory.
The faceplate, what if you have the “car phone option” is there another “car phone” variant that fits in cars with the “phone”.
And yes they where different head units.
Face one (2000 to middle of 2004) HU-603, HU-803
Face two (2004 to 2008 or 2010?) HU-450, HU-650, HU-850.
No mate sc901 with the 200watt amp in the c70 not all had was by far the best
@@mw5461 you mean that stupidly good sound system from the P80 generation?
Couldn't you get that system sound system in the S70R too?
When I said that the HU-850 was the best head unit, I meant that it was the best on the P2 platform.
@@klaspeppar5619 I'm not 100% certain about the s70r but I had a play around taking sound system from c70 convertible sub's in back seat cut them in on a c70coupe with crossover done a nice upgrade aswell
So far my hu-801 has been amazing in sound and has a 300watt amp according to the sources I’ve found and blows every new car’s stereo out of the water. Unfortunately every speaker is 8ohm making replacement difficult so I had to replace my center speaker with a 4ohm since it was sunbaked. But Volvo factory woven speakers are such good quality.
in my Volvo s60 2.5t as for the speaker wire plug mine actually has both harness plugs and that black L shaped plug
My hu850 is failing or has a loose connection. I may be interested in picking yours up if it’s for sale.
What did you ground the amp wite to? I’m having an awful buzzing/screeching noise coming from the speakers after installing an aftermarket radio
Welcome to the joys of Volvo systems. From 03 to about 08 they tied the head unit into the security system. In the XC90, if you change the headunit it causes all sorts of issues. They used a system called MOST. There are ways around the problems. I used to use a Volvo forum to help. Loads of them about and some very knowledgeable people there that can help. If you refit the original your problems will likely disappear.
This whine can be the wire of the speed indicator line. It makes the music louder when you go faster on your original radio.
Under the cowling below the windshield is leaking water into the computer harness under the dash. The top harnes has corroded pins that break. I had to fix mine . it was a leval 10 job but now i know about everything there's to know about the car.
Got the same SRS airbag error code after an ECU tune, it came after a couple of weeks driving the car and it's being there for almost 2 years now. Nothing was disconnected when the tunning was done, it was just my laptop and an OBDII plug thru the tuning company's adapter box, so I,m assuming Volvo's can read any weird stuff being done to them. Stealership wants 1h labor = $165 to clean up the code, that's why I have had it for so long, not a big deal with the price but those sharks got me once with the timing belt and tensioners/idler for $850.....not going back. If anyone knows a method just disconnecting the battery please post.
For the next person to do this, 2005+ s60r(2004 i dont know) work with: amp adapter(need to be grounded somewhere else than wiring kit), motorola antenna adaptor, metra wiring kit, awsc-1(need to be grounded somewhere else too) for steering wheel control. Good luck and may the R be with you😎
Still making my way thru the playlist. But u should check out the dash mount ipd boost gauge. Matches the stock blue gauges.
Sounds like a clock spring issue - not sure, but maybe it’s related to when you tried wiring up your steering wheel control. Disconnect your negative terminal on the battery for 10 minutes, this may clear the light. If not, locate the fuse for your ECU, pull it out for 10 minutes and put back in. This puts your ecu back in “learning mode”. You’ll probably see a difference in the cars performance as well as it is not stuck in it's fuel sipping nanny algorithm.
But that is really cool to see the torque and else stuff on the on that new screen.
So do the radio buttons still work on the steering wheel?
If you swap your stock stereo you will lose the dolby digital pro surround. My s60r has a grom unit and it is flawless(some glitches one in a while). I replaced the stereo just like you but it was like night and day losing the middle dash speaker. Volvo did a good job with the stock stereo. I recommend just focusing on engine modifications.
This exactly I did this and it was basically like I couldn't hear from one ear it was that different, had to switch back and buy the Bluetooth module like you did plus it looks a lot cleaner
Hi Hensen, I know what had happened to your SRS light and Window switches, as it happened to my P2 S60 before. At this time you should have also loss the function of the bottom 3 switches of Side mirror folding and Valet lock.
The cause is there's ONE MORE PLUS underneath the climate control module, and the harness is relatively short, so when you pull out the whole panel, the plug will pop out by itself..
All you need to do is to look at the lower part of the climate control, there's one socket need to be plugged. Locate the plug and put it back. It's not going to be easy, as the harness is just too short to pull out and plug in, try to jiggle the whole harness abit, but don't pull too hard.
After you put all plugs back in, you should have all the switches back, BUT the SRS light will still come on, it's a Volvo safety design. I've tried with some generic OBD scanner, which did not clear the SRS code. But with my mechanics's more advanced OBD scanner, he had cleared the code for me. So with Gregson's DICE scanner and the VIDA software, you will be able to clear the code.
Good luck and Happy DIYing.
Correction: Hi Hensen, I know what had happened to your SRS light and Window switches, as it happened to my P2 S60 before. At this time you should have also loss the function of the bottom 3 switches of Side mirror folding and Valet lock.
The cause is there's ONE PLUG underneath the climate control module, and the harness is relatively short, so when you pull out the whole panel, the plug will pop out by itself..
You need vida to delete srs code, when you on plug your stereo that codes come.
I just purchased a 2005 Volvo s60r and I’m looking to upgrade the head unit myself, does anyone recommend me a place in which I can have it installed? Or is it something anyone can do without any experience? Thank you all
The airbag warning came only only because you either pulled the radio or climate controls out with the key in. You can simply reset it with a VIDA DICE unit or bring it to Ben McNally at Rolling Motors cause he’s a wizard and the best with R’s and high performance Volvo’s. He’s in CT.
Man you should've just purchased a crux interface or a GROM. Too much of a headache JUST to get that app on there when you can wirelessly run it on your phone with an OBDII wireless receiver.
If you have the factory telephone module I would seriously recommend the new Bluetooth upgrade kit from VolvoCesky. For about 160 Euro's you can upgrade the existing telephone module with bluetooth connection and everything works like it was designed by Volvo (telephone book, Volvo factory microphone etc.). Works way better than a GROM unit (I've sold my GROM 2 months ago).
More info @ www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=261575
Does the Dolby still work tho
How did you fix the whine?
I don't have the same head unit. But I have had to take the radio out several times, it seems to always throw the airbag light whether you disconnect the battery or not. The first time I simply disconnected the battery overnight and it cleared the light. The second time I wasn't so lucky and had to use a snap on computer to clear the light. As for the wine, that sounds like your turbo to me, is it a new sound just since the stereo install?
New sound. It’s a ground loop. I had connected the ground from the speaker to chassis ground and it created that hum/whine. I detached the ground from chassis ground, and connected it to the cable’s shell and it fixed the hum/whine issue
-Hansen
It's the alarm the radio goes to the alarm and that's why u cant lock the door and the dome light stays on . Problem I have is radio like yours keeps losing memory . I wired it to the battery and still . If I open the door before I turn the car off and lock the door while it's still open . The radio does not reset and keeps memory
i thought i was the only one. lol i put the same radio in my volvo s60 about a year ago and i have had no problems works flawlessly
Brooklenn Bridges how to you control bass treble etc.
When I plugged one of those cheap Bluetooth OBD2 into my V50 it instantly crashed the car body computer and every warning light came on, then the car wouldn't start for 6 attempts, so some of your errors may be spurious, just my experience though.
7:40 - "If you're someone like Chad, this might be too cumbersome for you" 🤣
the grey connector is tucked in the back near the driver side
I set-up mine with no problems but i did want to buy the steering wheel control..Did the steering wheel control work? I do think the wine is a ground issue, and as for the srs warning issue, did you disconnect the battery before installing? you're supposed to!
I did disconnect it. But I think I didn’t connect the hvac plug when i plugged things back in. I think that’s what did it.
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes hi, does entangled white and green wire are can bus conection to the car. dont think they do steering comands unless its wired into car can bus, in that case it wont work. Fyi
There’s a company named bluepower or blupower that makes aftermarket factory plug and play radios for Volvo’s. Especially for 05+ s40 c30 models, other models too but the s40 and c30 are hard to put any other radios to fit like factory fitment. This brand does as well gives Navi. BT. I believe WiFi and you can control on some, climate control
For a second I thought you had a backwards window, it's just the car parked next to you
Not disconnecting the battery while you do electrical work is a good way to get a surprise face full of airbag.
You get the "SRS airbag service urgent" code because you didn't disconnect the battery before you unplug the cables... If you clear the codes with VIDA DICE everything should be good...
To be honest, I have an S60 with the lower end 650 head unit.
Your original unit is MILES Better. As long you have aux in and a phone holder you can achieve everything you want to with this new HU without the headache.
Anyway, I enjoy your Volvo content as I've recently become a Volvo fan. But Dude. You should have just bought a phone holder that goes into the cd slot and put the OBD2 reader into the slot, connected to torque from your phone.
I got a tune (remap) on my 2.4d. Currently thinking it's either a low ball tune or I've got a boost leak.
I'd like to see you too a diesel.
The SRS code is because you didn't unclip the battery before messing about with wiring.
Good luck!
You have an amplified system so the Serial plug is for that.
I have a 2002 Volvo S60 2.5 AWD perfect in every way and I have learned the hard way that you do not play with the S60s electrics. Take it to the Volvo Agent and get it sorted out.
That is not the wrong harness, I did this on my s60R with the same stock unit. it works as you will need to find the plug tucked in the back of the opening
theres a plug coming out of the factory loom that connects to the grey plug in the harness adapter? I'm having the same issue with my 2005 R
Josh Squires I just had the same problem and I read chrises comment and found it. It’s on the left side folded up and it has red and white wires if your still having this problem
I don't know if you have replaced your CEM yet but that could be the issue. It's pretty scary when NOTHING ELECTRICAL besides the engine works, no lights, turn signals, rpm, speed etc. I replaced mine with Xemodex. $600 but worth it.
The SRS-airbag light came cuz u had the battery connected while the stereo-unit was taken off. This comes from my experience :)
Great video!
Looks like you might have gotten the cheapest double din dash kit. I've actually not seen one that bad before. If you were to look, they have others that are more structurally sound.
The SRS light came because you didn't disconnect the battery before unplugging the SRS connector in that area. On any Volvo just disconnect the battery before doing any electrical work. The whining noise is interference noise and getting a radio noise filter should fix that. Hope that helps.
The whine has been fixed. The srs I hope will disappear once I hook up vida to it.
ShiftingLanes Nice. Radio noise bugs. VIDA is actually what the dealerships use as well. It will clear that code. Good stuff bro. I own a 2007 S60R. I custom fabricated a 3in exhaust for it. Open up the pipes and you will love it even more. 😁👍
Hey Hansen! Just going to let you know, at 3:45 you mention using torque pro for vehicle statistics like boost and what not. Torque is *not* accurate for boost. In torque on our Volvos boost is a calculated number based on MAF flow and throttle position and doesn't account for intake volume or intake temperature. There is no PID for the BPS over OBD in Volvos.
If you unplugged the stereo with the battery plugged in, there's a pretty good chance that's why you have an SRS light. Clear it in VIDA and it should be all good! (As in, hope and pray VIDA clears it 😬)
Yeah I honestly have no idea why he did this without doing any research
Yeah after spending a day with this unit, I’m about to yank it out. Got another unit on order. Also I did disconnect the battery but during troubleshooting I forgot to connect the hvac plug back in. That’s what threw the code I believe
-Hanswn
@@ShiftingLanes I told you to get the Blue Power and save the hassle 😂 good luck man, these things never go as planned. Hope you get everything sorted
You know that blue power unit was $800 when I looked at it. And then it was cut by $300-$400 after I bought this unit. I’m an iPhone guy so I’m gonna try a CarPlay unit next. Might be two stereo install videos in a row for me 😂
@@ShiftingLanes GET A GROM! Screw the torque app! It's a volvo, not a ford. OBDII is pointless. GROM will give you amazing quality and functionality you never knew the stock HU had!!
Ground fault or canbus fault is my guess.
the wining noise goes away when turning your new device off. So its grounded wrong or interfering with canbus signals. (Canbus is extremely sensitive to voltage differences, it throwes a code if canbus signal is high/low etc)
Ground loop was the cause of the whine. Fixed once I detached the speakers’ ground from chassis ground.
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes did it resolve the speedo fault also?
that whine is grounding issue it sounds like
You needed to disconnect the battery prior to installation. If not you get numerous trouble codes
nice job!
That extra space to the side will make a perfect spot for the boost gauge. Not a fan of the A-pillar and vent locations. You’ll get better accuracy using the gauge. Playing with wires never go as planned. Can’t imagine how many f-bombs you dropped during this install. Good luck sorting the steering control.
F-bombs and oh s#!ts galore! You’d think it’ll be different because I wasn’t working on mechanical/rusty things...
-Hansen
ShiftingLanes Yeah, you’d think. Can’t wait to see the finale.
My turbo guage is there lmao and it does fit well
Its the same car but red with cream interior
03:01 Volvo actually makes an OEM double-din adapter for 05+ S60s. Volvo part # 8684591, available from FCP Euro. Way better quality than the Metra.
I went with a SCOSCHE VO4152B which was a lot better than the Metra one which I returned. The Metra's color was too far off for the 05+ S60 CCM, and the metra felt a lot cheaper than the Scosche.
My car is 2006 s60 2.4d hu-850
I want 12 pin wiring diagram
My function is handle control and parking assistance function
I want new audio iso cable connection and i want to use also two functions
That's what happens when your DIM won't turn on - no power windows etc. Sunroof still works because it's alarm battery. You mightve just shorted something out disconnecting and reconnecting with the ignition in/out a bunch of times, if the problem isnt persisting don't worry about it, just if the numbers start doing wonky shit or clock will run the numbers like mad then your dim is probably going out
Yeah. Scared the hell outta me. Once I connected everything back, worked like a charm!
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes I got a tool on amazon as well to clear the airbag light on my 01 t5, it should work for yours as well, it's also an obd scanner as well as a volvo tool for like 80 bucks. Saves a trip to the dealer every time the light comes on. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4UOWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With all the mods I've put in i always have about 12 non-essential codes, such as speed sensor, etc.. if i corner too hard, abs and check stc light comes on, but that is because of a bent or cracked cv axle i think combined with eibach pro kit. The tool clears them all though.
That happens when you disconnect the climate control. You just need to clear dtc codes.
p4ct 👍🏼
What year is that? I'll take your old headunit for a donation.
Reset the SRS light through VIDA
You have to reconnect the battery with the ignition switch in position II to avoid issues.
What issues?
If you pull the speaker wire plug back you can find where it plugs into and you can plug in that other connector
Fair enough if it’s a forever keeper but used Volvo buyers would rather see stock tunes.
Shoulda gone GROM instead. That way you don’t lose steering wheel buttons functionality.
Do you still have the head unit in the volvo, and if you do can you please do an update!
I agree!
@@Est.Her414 Ive just done a headunit install in my 2002 volvo s60... like this guys, and it works fine and is really nice!
Can I have your HU850? The CD player on mine in my Volvo S80 D5 no longer works!!
I got one for sale with a Bluetooth kit. Email andycomchi@shaw.ca if your interested
Your SRS airbag light can be 2 issues. Either climate control was unplugged at some point during install, with the car battery connected. Or your steering wheel controls are causing an issue with low side CAM bus. Since you said your battery was disconnected during install, and your steering wheel controls don't work. I believe it's your steering wheel controls. I just installed a Sony AX5000 in my 05 2.5t S60 this weekend and use this adapter. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSAT4WO it's premade and went without issue. Just ignore the speaker output side like you did before.
For your audio whine use this www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEDZBA I needed to use one to fix the static in my backup camera I also installed.
hey I was wondering if you had any ideas for my 05 s60 2.5T. When I installed my used pioneer AVH-280BT (it replaced my HU-650, non amplified) everything works except the audio! I've been through menu settings, I've checked wiring, and wiring continuity and I'm out of ideas
Keep it classic...greetings Europe.
Did you manage to get the steering wheel controls working?
Nope. 😕
I did with tech supports help. Just call the number on the directions and they walk you through the programming simple.
Bad experiences from those cheap android players, wouldn't recommend :/ I just installed an aftermarket bluetooth ad on for my S60R HU850 and that best package from factory sounds pretty nice playing from Tidal, just need to swap those two 8" in back shelf with new Pioneer subs some day :)
This is not something you should do yourself without research and professional installation. I have a 2004 V70 and the CD player is 4 disc type that has malfunctioned and I'm annoyed without music driving to work, but I use headphones now before I get a new head unit or double DIN Pioneer unit. These cars have too much electronic pathways and you can easily set off a bunch of warnings if you're not careful costing you more than you bargained for.
Volvo original stereo sounds really good
Use vida to reset all the modules
Your car will freak out for a second, flash all the lights etc....
And Bam
Resets everything
Dudes. Take it apart first to see what is going on. Step one disconnect battery for almost every job. Connectors look good thx info. The DIY stereo swap is significant job, but well worth it.
One thing you also lose is the Audyssey time alignment and tuning when taking out the HU-850. I don't really care for the actual TUNING of it (mids always on -3 or -4), but the time alignment is awesome.
What about applying some matte screen protector? Then you wouldn't see yourself in the mirror of the screen. (I wonder why on earth the tablet manufacturers don't make matte screens...)
their are webbsites out there selling a kits to fix your steering wheel buttons :)
Yep. I wired it up but it wasn’t working or programming properly. I bought the ASWC-1 kit from Axxess
@@ShiftingLanes lol that's your issue. Buy crux SWRVL-54.. it's made for volvos.. (:
When you replace the HU in a Volvo you need to change the cars reliance on it by getting a software upgrade from a dealer.
thats only for 2001 to 2004 models, his car is an 07
Buying VIDA and dice??
Gregson has that setup. Gonna give him a visit at some point to clear the code
-Hansen
I fit stereos for Halfords every day. I’ve got a Kenwood DMX-7017DAB double din headunit with a Connects2 fascia and loom. I’ve had absolutely no issues with my fitment or running it. Connects2 and Autoleads manufacture all the P2 fascias and accessories. My car is a 2006 V70
The error with SRS-Airbag came because you disconnect the climate control and you put the contact to the car with this disconnected, next time when you disconnect the climate control, be carefull to disconnect also the battery or to try to dont turn the key in ignition. It was happening the same at me, just put any tester, doesnt matter if its Vida or Delphi or what else and erase the error and everything will be fine ( DOESNT WORK WITH ELM327, ELM327 read only the error from engine) Cheers !
So, HU-850 unit is really good head unit. I decided to leave it, because Spotify (or other music app) sound quality does not come even close to sound quality of CD, which I enjoy from time to time. So instead of removing HU-850, I left it as it is and made AUX input and connected to Lenovo Yoga 8inch tablet which has folding stand and installed nicely above HU-850. Everything works nice, only have to solve how to organise AUX and charging wire. If somebody wants picture of how it looks, just let me know. Blue Power is good, but its really outdated now...
And if somebody knows better solution for sound quality and price, please, let me know.
i would like pics and an update if available! thanks
@@JRPBruce th-cam.com/video/0fE-csPee3g/w-d-xo.html
You guys have three Volvos - buy a Vida laptop! You may be able to clear the SRS and be on your way.
We have one
I had to goto the dealer and have them do a radio delete to the computer in my s40 to clear my codes
You must remove the minus on the battery before removing the radio otherwise you will get srs error code. You only have to erase the srs error code
you could have replaced the knobs of the head unit for 30$...a car like that should be kept stock as much as possible in my opinion.
i get it's practical and all, but it just looks out of place and not coherent with the rest of the design. i'd rather just install bluetooth in the old head unit and replace the knobs with the worn out soft touch paint.
its the green and yellow wire thats a data communication bus switch polarity it should also end with a 120 ohm resistor buscables mus also be twinned
yiu might find more about CAN BUS f you google it, standard colour is green an yellow, CAN high and Can low
How to swap donkey for chicken. Great video.
The standard sound system is excellent and you have indeed devalued your car considerably. You should have just bought a new car!
theres a sound, cuz maby you touched rubber thing thats on steering collum, and fixator poped out, there a rubber bettween sterring collum and fire wall , under the steering wheel,
Got everything ass back wards 💀
Please check your altenator pulley - it has a one way bearing in it - if this fails it can throw the serpentine belt off, wrap it around the crank pulley & this can break your timing belt - Dead Engine !