Thanks for sharing, the fact that switch slides out helps me out alot, trying to get that whole heater control assembly out, real pain, now I don't have to do that.
onlythewise1 Very few people own them nowadays, I had to sell it a little while ago and ended up being more more money to keep it running but I love that little truck
My roommate just got a 96 T100, for $500. I've been around this truck, since it was my brother's, for 15 years. HAD a seized-up water pump, so I changed the pump and timing belt. EASY PEASY! The pivot on this switch has been acting up, so it needs to be done. Switch showed up from RockAuto, cost me $19, including shipping. steve
@@steveskouson9620 Switch is no longer made by Denso for Toyota. Amazon and eBay have cheap chinese knockoffs for about 10-15 bucks and they are junk. They last about 12-18 months. I only ever use the high speed on my a/c so I put a 30 amp spst switch on the left lower dash panel in my 92 Toyota Pickup and just left the bad switch in it's position so that the nightlme dash illumination remains when the headlights are turned on. My switch has outlasted the cheap Chinese knockoffs. The original Denso switch lasted over 15 years!
Wow. That seems like a lot of work. I replaced my switch in my 95 Toyota 4 X 4 ... by simply taking 4 screws out of the stereo, dropping it down out of the way, reaching underneath, and sliding the switch out. No dash or glove box removal required. I did that in 2010, and it looks like I will be doing it again today. Seems to be an issue with these 95s. (mine is a T-100)
Jacqueline Rogers hello hopefully this is still active. My t100 blower on works on high and not on any settings. Could it be that it’s fried? Izzyg05ismet@aol.com
Don’t forget to check relay and fuses! Located above the ecu! If it starts working but only on high, then go for the switch, if not that, then you need to splurge on the 80 dollar resistor. If it still doesn’t work, then check wiring. Still doesn’t work, turn it into a race truck lol.
I just cleaned up the internal contacts on the inside of the switch and added some solder to the little wiper arm so it can make better contact because it’s worn out
Just now, I tried first without pulling all the dash materials off. I removed the faceplate over the fan control and the top cover over the instrument panel. Thought that was enough, I unscrewed the fan control unit and jiggled it free but it was impossible to remove the switch, let alone the connector. You can't fit your fingers in there to disconnect anything. So... I didn't have to remove the glove box, but I had to remove in this order, the kick panel under the dashboard, the key cover, the center console panels, the cover under the radio, unscrew the four bolts and swing the radio out, then finally, I was able to get underneath the a/c fan unit and pry the damn connector away from the switch, and wiggle hard the switch free. It was visibly burned/shorted. I might've been able to force it free without removing all those panels, but you might tear the cables and connectors.
@@jazmann1977 Thank you for the reply. I also tried to do it with just removing the covers around the radio and failed. This took a backseat to another project, so I appreciate you confirming that it's going to be a bigger job than I initially thought. I appreciate it!
Great video, my situation is when turning on the fan switch there is nothing on any of the fan speeds, when pressing the a/c button and using the fan switch still nothing, no light on the a/c switch. I'm thinking they are tied together, would that indicate the fan switch or resistor. thanks
How do you get the blower motor and cabin filter out? Do I need to remove the whole dash? I got the blower motor loose, but it just hits the floor half way out.
I never attempted to remove the blower motor but I believe there is no cabin filter on this vehicle. Cabin filters did not come out till much later in the late 2000’s if I am not mistaken.
Would one of these blower switches cause the AC to not work if it were badly worn? There's almost no tactile feedback or clicking when I move it through the various speeds. My AC in my 95 4Runner only blows cold on the lowest two speeds and I hear the relay for the clutch or compressor kick off when I move the switch around. If I'm not mistaken, something in the blower circuit contains a lockout that turns off the AC so that it won't run if the bower motor isn't moving. Thanks so much if someone can help me out with this.
Thanks, Ill check mine out. I checked my fuses under the glove compartment and everything was good. But I am not getting any illumination behind the heater unit nor am I getting any fan on when switches. Ill check this switch.
The main reason the these switch burned is due to the blower motor is worn and draws too much amperage through it, which caused it to burn and melt the plastic. You should replace the blower motor under the hood as well. Otherwise you will be replacing this part agian soon.
Thanks for the tip. I have a similar issue, only it's the connector on the harness that is burnt, not the switch. I have a spare fan lying around. Maybe I will pop that in there.
This is usually caused by a bad main ground. The blower gets power straight from the battery. The ground goes to the switch. On high the blower is straight ground. On lower settings it is routed to resistance. On the 4runner and probably the truck too, the ground is just under the dash on top of a metal bar that can be seen when the dash is removed. A clean ground will prevent switch and harness burnouts.
The AC light inside the button is dependent on the clutch and condenser getting power. I had the same problem and I changed the 10 amp fuse behind the glove box for the condenser fan. Now it works again
Lol just replaced mine but broke the little plastic tabs that hold it in place and the new one won’t work… light comes on but switch won’t turn fan on lmao
I was afraid this would be a lot of work but its really just a dozen screws. Took about 1.5 hours start to finish. Much easier than it looks! Oh and this switch works good but you have to open the switch up and flip over the metal tab so the bend in the tab is facing up - before installing! www.carparts.com/details/Toyota/Pickup/Replacement/Blower_Control_Switch/1993/REPT509801.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwkoz7BRBPEiwAeKw3qy5HvfOafir2oaiOKAVzYxCswUtpik76J3T9voik1vWoT43MdXzCURoCTrQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
A waste of time! All you are doing is replacing the blower switch. That does not require removing the f...g dash! It is obvious when the cover over the radio is removed. When do you replace the blower resistor, as you advertised? Wasted..
Thanks for sharing, the fact that switch slides out helps me out alot, trying to get that whole heater control assembly out, real pain, now I don't have to do that.
great video didn't think any one would talk about a old Toyota like this , thanks
onlythewise1 Very few people own them nowadays, I had to sell it a little while ago and ended up being more more money to keep it running but I love that little truck
yes your right I own one 1993 v-6 sr5 with sun roof sport seats
My roommate just got a 96 T100, for $500.
I've been around this truck, since it was my brother's,
for 15 years.
HAD a seized-up water pump, so I changed the pump
and timing belt. EASY PEASY! The pivot on this switch
has been acting up, so it needs to be done.
Switch showed up from RockAuto, cost me $19, including
shipping.
steve
@@steveskouson9620 Switch is no longer made by Denso for Toyota. Amazon and eBay have cheap chinese knockoffs for about 10-15 bucks and they are junk. They last about 12-18 months. I only ever use the high speed on my a/c so I put a 30 amp spst switch on the left lower dash panel in my 92 Toyota Pickup and just left the bad switch in it's position so that the nightlme dash illumination remains when the headlights are turned on. My switch has outlasted the cheap Chinese knockoffs. The original Denso switch lasted over 15 years!
Wow. That seems like a lot of work. I replaced my switch in my 95 Toyota 4 X 4 ... by simply taking 4 screws out of the stereo, dropping it down out of the way, reaching underneath, and sliding the switch out. No dash or glove box removal required. I did that in 2010, and it looks like I will be doing it again today. Seems to be an issue with these 95s. (mine is a T-100)
You may have a different radio then I can't even access the radio mount without removing the dash
my front blower not working but back blower is working fine so I replace front blower and resistor still not working can you help ?
contact me jacquelinewatson007@gmail.com
Jacqueline Rogers hello hopefully this is still active. My t100 blower on works on high and not on any settings. Could it be that it’s fried? Izzyg05ismet@aol.com
@@jacquelinerogers372 For me it was the relay switch.
thanks for taking the time to post this vid - very helpful!
Thanks! I tore mine apart, but I didn't remember how I got it out. LOL
Don’t forget to check relay and fuses! Located above the ecu! If it starts working but only on high, then go for the switch, if not that, then you need to splurge on the 80 dollar resistor. If it still doesn’t work, then check wiring. Still doesn’t work, turn it into a race truck lol.
I just cleaned up the internal contacts on the inside of the switch and added some solder to the little wiper arm so it can make better contact because it’s worn out
Great video, very helpful!
I only need to replace the switch -- my blower is working. Is it really necessary for me disassemble the entire dash/glove box to put in the new one?
Just now, I tried first without pulling all the dash materials off. I removed the faceplate over the fan control and the top cover over the instrument panel. Thought that was enough, I unscrewed the fan control unit and jiggled it free but it was impossible to remove the switch, let alone the connector. You can't fit your fingers in there to disconnect anything. So... I didn't have to remove the glove box, but I had to remove in this order, the kick panel under the dashboard, the key cover, the center console panels, the cover under the radio, unscrew the four bolts and swing the radio out, then finally, I was able to get underneath the a/c fan unit and pry the damn connector away from the switch, and wiggle hard the switch free. It was visibly burned/shorted. I might've been able to force it free without removing all those panels, but you might tear the cables and connectors.
@@jazmann1977 Thank you for the reply. I also tried to do it with just removing the covers around the radio and failed. This took a backseat to another project, so I appreciate you confirming that it's going to be a bigger job than I initially thought. I appreciate it!
Is this the same for a 1994?
Thanks, I'll order the switch!
Great video, my situation is when turning on the fan switch there is nothing on any of the fan speeds, when pressing the a/c button and using the fan switch still nothing, no light on the a/c switch. I'm thinking they are tied together, would that indicate the fan switch or resistor. thanks
Yo im having the same issue on my 1995 4runner any luck on your car? Did u find the problem?
❤nice information
How do you get the blower motor and cabin filter out? Do I need to remove the whole dash? I got the blower motor loose, but it just hits the floor half way out.
I never attempted to remove the blower motor but I believe there is no cabin filter on this vehicle. Cabin filters did not come out till much later in the late 2000’s if I am not mistaken.
would this be the same for a 93 4runner?
It is. I am working on a 92 4Runner. Same procedure.
Would one of these blower switches cause the AC to not work if it were badly worn? There's almost no tactile feedback or clicking when I move it through the various speeds. My AC in my 95 4Runner only blows cold on the lowest two speeds and I hear the relay for the clutch or compressor kick off when I move the switch around. If I'm not mistaken, something in the blower circuit contains a lockout that turns off the AC so that it won't run if the bower motor isn't moving. Thanks so much if someone can help me out with this.
I’ve been trying to do this on my 1990 sr5 4Runner and had no luck at all.
if the back blower works would it still be the switch ?
Test the outgoing power tabs on the switch. If bo power is going to the van from the switch I would say yes
Had to give it a little man sauce with a pick tool, but it popped out 🙏
How do you replace the fan blower switch for a 2000. Toyota rav 4
Thanks, Ill check mine out. I checked my fuses under the glove compartment and everything was good. But I am not getting any illumination behind the heater unit nor am I getting any fan on when switches. Ill check this switch.
I have a 90 toyota I just bought it the guy told me he never mess with the ac blower u think I got the same problem u had?
Thanks guy 👍.
The main reason the these switch burned is due to the blower motor is worn and draws too much amperage through it, which caused it to burn and melt the plastic. You should replace the blower motor under the hood as well. Otherwise you will be replacing this part agian soon.
Thanks for the tip. I have a similar issue, only it's the connector on the harness that is burnt, not the switch. I have a spare fan lying around. Maybe I will pop that in there.
@@putrid_swamp_juice Same here. So seems like I need a new blower motor. Will I need to re-wire between the two I wonder?
This is usually caused by a bad main ground. The blower gets power straight from the battery. The ground goes to the switch. On high the blower is straight ground. On lower settings it is routed to resistance. On the 4runner and probably the truck too, the ground is just under the dash on top of a metal bar that can be seen when the dash is removed. A clean ground will prevent switch and harness burnouts.
Very usefull! Thank you very much!
My ac light won't turn on my 95 4runner was just working blowing air now the light won't turn on changed the relay and still won't turn on
The AC light inside the button is dependent on the clutch and condenser getting power. I had the same problem and I changed the 10 amp fuse behind the glove box for the condenser fan. Now it works again
Lol just replaced mine but broke the little plastic tabs that hold it in place and the new one won’t work… light comes on but switch won’t turn fan on lmao
i have a new fan blower plus resistor but still does not work.
Do you know where the clutch relay is I can't find it?
Thanks!
What is the part that he bought called?
Reese Baird it's the fan Blower switch.
fanblower, resistor. where is fan blower relay.
Very helpfull
I have replaced my blower switch on my 1988 toyota ae92 but still not working.Any help please
This is the situation I am in. My plug on wiring harness to the switch is also fried. How did you fix yours? Thanks for any help.
I was afraid this would be a lot of work but its really just a dozen screws. Took about 1.5 hours start to finish. Much easier than it looks! Oh and this switch works good but you have to open the switch up and flip over the metal tab so the bend in the tab is facing up - before installing!
www.carparts.com/details/Toyota/Pickup/Replacement/Blower_Control_Switch/1993/REPT509801.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwkoz7BRBPEiwAeKw3qy5HvfOafir2oaiOKAVzYxCswUtpik76J3T9voik1vWoT43MdXzCURoCTrQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Take the radio out... that’s it.
Doing just that does not give you access to the blower speed selector if I remember right
Same problem
A waste of time! All you are doing is replacing the blower switch. That does not require removing the f...g dash! It is obvious when the cover over the radio is removed. When do you replace the blower resistor, as you advertised? Wasted..