@venomsmom If your get no cranking sound from the engine then disregard the coils. One thing that comes to mind to the security key. Your vehicle has a security key transponder. The key outputs a digital code, the ECM or security module then gives the OK to start the vehicle. Make sure you don't have too many keys attached to your key holder ring. The extra weight may break the ignition cylinder transponder. There's one at the key and one at the cylinder itself. Post back with more details.
The only one that provides current is the battery. Everything else acts like a resistor. The lower the resistance the BIGGER the LOAD, the higher the resistance the SMALLER the LOAD. Take a look at the many electronic videos that we have on this channel. We also have an Automotive Electronics Course book series on Amazon. Thanks for posting.
WoW Awesome, you are 100% right, you clarified my doubt.I like to appreciate your patience, because i have asked atleast 10 questions in last 3 days, you have replied to all questions, i dont think any one else would do like you did.. Thanks again.. infact i dont think anyone will teach me, like you taught me for FREE...
@8btz I don't about "a few decimal places", but remember that resistance changes with temperature. The change is a few Ohms, but not a few decimal places. Also, often times, on a bad coil, once the coil cools down it's back to normal, but fails at higher temperatures. Good luck.
Hi and thanks for posting. Yes, you can use a TL connected to B+ simulate a pulse from the ECM and trigger the coil. It's done all the time in the field. THEN, NO... You should not use a POWER PROBE to do anything of the sort. Applying steady power to the coil won't make it spark. The coil works on a HIGH CURRENT PULSE of up to 6 Amps. The coil sparks upon power disconnect to collapse the magnetic field.
@twistedyogert Newer systems use COP or coil on plug. The igniter can be either at the coil itself or a separate unit. No Dist. is used on these systems. The ECM and crank sensor is all that's needed. Good luck...
I'm sorry, it's a 2004, cadillac srx. And yes it has the individual coil /ignition pack. Thank you for the response , I was able to find primary coil and ohm it out and it was open. When I pulled it out it had a weird smell. The think is that I had a coil pack give on that same cylinder before, it actually burnt so it threw me off a little. Thank you for your response.
@ADPTraining Cont: Assuming it's electronic ignition, there are a few things to check. Check available voltage ate the coil, should be 12.6V. If less, that you have a resistance at the power feed, relay, etc. Use a head light to test power feed. A headlight draws 6 Amps, which is the standard for most auto coils (assuming your system is 12 volts). Feed me more info and I'll do my best to help you out. Best of luck.
Don't use the TL to test the coil. It won't work. Remember, 300mA as opposed to 6Amps (6A = 6000mA). TL use only on ign. mode trigger from ECM or as a crank input. TL use not recommended by manufacturer, but done in real life. 300mA won't hurt ECM. AGAIN, no you can't use OTC pulser on coils. Injector draws 900mA or almost 1A and coil draws 6A or 6000mA, which not enough to drive coil. It'll probably blow the pulser, although OTC pulser has protection against over-current.
That's a normal analogy, but no. Understand this, when connect a TL between battery + and - you're in effect shorting the TL. THat's why it lights up. The filament in the TL acts like a resistor and keeps current at a max of 300mA. It is a safety feature inherent in the TL. Any car battery can supply up to 700 Amps. In fact you can weld metal with a car battery (not advisable). The TL filament is an actual resistor. Hope that helps...
Ok, without knowing the year make and model I'm assuming you have a coil with built in ignition module. That's why the extra wires. One wire will be 12 volts, Ground, coil trigger from the ECM and coil feedback to the ECM. Hope that helps.
I thought that the coil was located on the outside of the engine near the distributor. But i noticed that the distributor sends electrical charges to a coil attached to each spark plug. I guess the old way mend that if your coil gave out you wernt going anyware
@ADPTraining it turned out to be a bad starter relay. But after i got my car back from the dealer my car makes a loud winding noise once I hit thirty miles an hour and continues until i get below thirty again i can hear it winding down. The dealer actually left the cover off my fuse box so I drove it like that for a day or two. They seem to be very sloppy Im worried they damaged my car even more.
Can I use Fuel injection pulse tester (OTC 3398) to test ignition coil as well, like we pulse fuel injection, can i use the same tool to pulse ignition coil as well. pls advise. I will try to use my test light connecting the wire to battery negative and apply the probe tip (basically pulsing ignition ground) on and off..
hi, i was told that i canNOT use test light to pulse the ground directly on ignition coil, it can be used to pulse only ECM INPUT TO igniter is that true. The reason i got is, if i pulse the ground on ignition coil via test light it might pull more AMPS and test light might burn out, is that right.
Good video . So you have to disconnect the connector from the coil right? If so, mine has four wires and I disconnected it. I think I found the main 12v as I checked the two wires with the ignition on, engine off I had 12vdc in all, is that good or bad, just can't understand the last part of your video . Also can I just check the resistance?? Thank you
Hi, you are right, it is my mistake, this time i am writing it in correct words. Test light draws only 300 milliamps, whereas coil needs 20 times more current , if so when coil draw 20 time more than 300 milliamps, how come test light can with stand to supply 20 times of 300 milliamps will not it get fused?.
I have a 2003 lincoln ls and my car doesnt always start on the first try it either starts or doesnt crank at all no sound and had battery cand charging system checked. I think it could be bad ignition coils but the dealer insists it has nothing to do with them even though they havent looked yet. I dont trust them can someone help?
@thatcutndude1 Hello, I love to help, but this video is more for autos that motorcycles. However, the principle is the same. What kind of cycle is it, electronic ignition? Is it a 4 cycle engine, what size engine?
@ADPTraining They said it didn't start on the first try... If the Lincoln's security system overrides the key, the engine won't start at all. Sucks because it's happened to me before :\
Whoever said that has no clue what he's talking about. The test light draws about 300 Milli-Amps. A coil draws 6 Amps, or about 20 times more. You'll never burn anything using a TL. They are safe even for ECM inputs. It is not taught in schools to use TL like that for liability reasons, but done all the time in the field. You seem to be getting a lot of wrong advice from the wrong people. It will only confuse you. Good luck and thanks for posting.
when Tl allows only 300ma acting as a resistor how come it can provide current of 6 amps for ignition coil . To me if I withdraw a current of more than 300 ma from Tl it will get fused. Pls advise
i had to change 6 of my ignition coils on my s500 so easy to change when one went out for the first time the engine would shake and i ended up needing one of these when i went to change it i could tell from the discoloration that i needed 6 since two were already changed (v8 engine) they were 104 dollars a peice...assholes,,,but now my car is smoooooooth!!!
Hello, I have 2001 Toyota Avalon 3.0 L(XLS) V6. each ignition coil has 4 wire (plug): one is ground to each coil. ( W-B COLOR.) one is coming from the ECU toward each coil to 12 v. (IGF, COLOR, B-Y.) one is connected to the ECU (as signal,,,, positive signal ?????) to each coil. (6 DIFFERENT COLORS). one is from the NOISE FILTER (IGNITION). to each coil. (B-W COLOR) I HAVE THREE QUESTIONS: 1. what is the noise filter for the ignition(purpose) and how to test it??? 2. is the signal intermittent means not continues signal and it is POSITIVE signal??? due to Transistor out of the ECU, but built in each ignition coil itself !!!! 3. IS this signal coming toward the ECU by the ignition coil OR OR the ECU send to the coil? AND 4. What kind of signal - or +
@venomsmom If your get no cranking sound from the engine then disregard the coils. One thing that comes to mind to the security key. Your vehicle has a security key transponder. The key outputs a digital code, the ECM or security module then gives the OK to start the vehicle. Make sure you don't have too many keys attached to your key holder ring. The extra weight may break the ignition cylinder transponder. There's one at the key and one at the cylinder itself. Post back with more details.
The only one that provides current is the battery. Everything else acts like a resistor. The lower the resistance the BIGGER the LOAD, the higher the resistance the SMALLER the LOAD. Take a look at the many electronic videos that we have on this channel. We also have an Automotive Electronics Course book series on Amazon. Thanks for posting.
WoW Awesome, you are 100% right, you clarified my doubt.I like to appreciate your patience, because i have asked atleast 10 questions in last 3 days, you have replied to all questions, i dont think any one else would do like you did.. Thanks again.. infact i dont think anyone will teach me, like you taught me for FREE...
@8btz I don't about "a few decimal places", but remember that resistance changes with temperature. The change is a few Ohms, but not a few decimal places. Also, often times, on a bad coil, once the coil cools down it's back to normal, but fails at higher temperatures. Good luck.
Hi and thanks for posting. Yes, you can use a TL connected to B+ simulate a pulse from the ECM and trigger the coil. It's done all the time in the field. THEN, NO... You should not use a POWER PROBE to do anything of the sort. Applying steady power to the coil won't make it spark. The coil works on a HIGH CURRENT PULSE of up to 6 Amps. The coil sparks upon power disconnect to collapse the magnetic field.
@twistedyogert Newer systems use COP or coil on plug. The igniter can be either at the coil itself or a separate unit. No Dist. is used on these systems. The ECM and crank sensor is all that's needed. Good luck...
I'm sorry, it's a 2004, cadillac srx. And yes it has the individual coil /ignition pack. Thank you for the response , I was able to find primary coil and ohm it out and it was open. When I pulled it out it had a weird smell. The think is that I had a coil pack give on that same cylinder before, it actually burnt so it threw me off a little. Thank you for your response.
@ADPTraining Cont:
Assuming it's electronic ignition, there are a few things to check. Check available voltage ate the coil, should be 12.6V. If less, that you have a resistance at the power feed, relay, etc. Use a head light to test power feed. A headlight draws 6 Amps, which is the standard for most auto coils (assuming your system is 12 volts). Feed me more info and I'll do my best to help you out. Best of luck.
Don't use the TL to test the coil. It won't work. Remember, 300mA as opposed to 6Amps (6A = 6000mA). TL use only on ign. mode trigger from ECM or as a crank input. TL use not recommended by manufacturer, but done in real life. 300mA won't hurt ECM. AGAIN, no you can't use OTC pulser on coils. Injector draws 900mA or almost 1A and coil draws 6A or 6000mA, which not enough to drive coil. It'll probably blow the pulser, although OTC pulser has protection against over-current.
Thanks for sharing and commenting.
That's a normal analogy, but no. Understand this, when connect a TL between battery + and - you're in effect shorting the TL. THat's why it lights up. The filament in the TL acts like a resistor and keeps current at a max of 300mA. It is a safety feature inherent in the TL. Any car battery can supply up to 700 Amps. In fact you can weld metal with a car battery (not advisable). The TL filament is an actual resistor. Hope that helps...
Ok, without knowing the year make and model I'm assuming you have a coil with built in ignition module. That's why the extra wires. One wire will be 12 volts, Ground, coil trigger from the ECM and coil feedback to the ECM. Hope that helps.
@8btz You have a loose connection. (intermittent).
I thought that the coil was located on the outside of the engine near the distributor. But i noticed that the distributor sends electrical charges to a coil attached to each spark plug. I guess the old way mend that if your coil gave out you wernt going anyware
@ADPTraining it turned out to be a bad starter relay. But after i got my car back from the dealer my car makes a loud winding noise once I hit thirty miles an hour and continues until i get below thirty again i can hear it winding down. The dealer actually left the cover off my fuse box so I drove it like that for a day or two. They seem to be very sloppy Im worried they damaged my car even more.
the 12v mentiond on one side of the primary may be 6v on some coils, or a bit higher...
this applies to older systems with a ballast resistor
Can I use Fuel injection pulse tester (OTC 3398) to test ignition coil as well, like we pulse fuel injection, can i use the same tool to pulse ignition coil as well. pls advise.
I will try to use my test light connecting the wire to battery negative and apply the probe tip (basically pulsing ignition ground) on and off..
This video was GREAT!
Well, what do you mean exactly. Which two circuits?
Glad you found the issue. Yeah a burnt coil can do that for you.
hi, i was told that i canNOT use test light to pulse the ground directly on ignition coil, it can be used to pulse only ECM INPUT TO igniter is that true. The reason i got is, if i pulse the ground on ignition coil via test light it might pull more AMPS and test light might burn out, is that right.
Good video . So you have to disconnect the connector from the coil right? If so, mine has four wires and I disconnected it. I think I found the main 12v as I checked the two wires with the ignition on, engine off I had 12vdc in all, is that good or bad, just can't understand the last part of your video . Also can I just check the resistance?? Thank you
Hi, you are right, it is my mistake, this time i am writing it in correct words. Test light draws only 300 milliamps, whereas coil needs 20 times more current , if so when coil draw 20 time more than 300 milliamps, how come test light can with stand to supply 20 times of 300 milliamps will not it get fused?.
I have a 2003 lincoln ls and my car doesnt always start on the first try it either starts or doesnt crank at all no sound and had battery cand charging system checked. I think it could be bad ignition coils but the dealer insists it has nothing to do with them even though they havent looked yet. I dont trust them can someone help?
@thatcutndude1 Hello, I love to help, but this video is more for autos that motorcycles. However, the principle is the same. What kind of cycle is it, electronic ignition? Is it a 4 cycle engine, what size engine?
@ADPTraining They said it didn't start on the first try... If the Lincoln's security system overrides the key, the engine won't start at all. Sucks because it's happened to me before :\
Whoever said that has no clue what he's talking about. The test light draws about 300 Milli-Amps. A coil draws 6 Amps, or about 20 times more. You'll never burn anything using a TL. They are safe even for ECM inputs. It is not taught in schools to use TL like that for liability reasons, but done all the time in the field. You seem to be getting a lot of wrong advice from the wrong people. It will only confuse you. Good luck and thanks for posting.
ignition coils usually wired in autotransformer style
Its awesome. in one word "Wow"
this is helpful for my hv experement
when Tl allows only 300ma acting as a resistor how come it can provide current of 6 amps for ignition coil . To me if I withdraw a current of more than 300 ma from Tl it will get fused. Pls advise
Thanks for posting.
Is the fault between two circuit is dangerous!
i had to change 6 of my ignition coils on my s500 so easy to change when one went out for the first time the engine would shake and i ended up needing one of these when i went to change it i could tell from the discoloration that i needed 6 since two were already changed (v8 engine) they were 104 dollars a peice...assholes,,,but now my car is smoooooooth!!!
Hello,
I have 2001 Toyota Avalon 3.0 L(XLS) V6.
each ignition coil has 4 wire (plug):
one is ground to each coil. ( W-B COLOR.)
one is coming from the ECU toward each coil to 12 v. (IGF, COLOR, B-Y.)
one is connected to the ECU (as signal,,,, positive signal ?????) to each coil. (6 DIFFERENT COLORS).
one is from the NOISE FILTER (IGNITION). to each coil. (B-W COLOR)
I HAVE THREE QUESTIONS:
1. what is the noise filter for the ignition(purpose) and how to test it???
2. is the signal intermittent means not continues signal and it is POSITIVE signal??? due to Transistor out of the ECU, but built in each ignition coil itself !!!!
3. IS this signal coming toward the ECU by the ignition coil OR OR the ECU send to the coil? AND
4. What kind of signal - or +
how can i measured the voltage produced by the coil?
Good sir
👍
VERY TECHNICAL :P
"A fault at either of this two circuits will create a misfire."
dam thats crazy expensive.
I appreciate the detail but the audio is not great. What's wrong with the human voice?
I like
These speech robots should be banned from YT
Udh
Oh