CONTINUED FROM 1: E) On modern vehicles, if the tire size changed, it'll upset ISS-to-OSS ratios, so always program new tire size if it has changed or stick to original. The TCC meshes or lock the engine to the tires. Any TCC slip will be registered as an off frequency differential. ECM/TCM allows for some offset threshold, but if differential beyond threshold, a DTC is issues. Hope that helps...Thanks as always for participating...
Wow, nice question and what a great description. Now I know that get the theory. Here's the answer: A) The ECM or TCM compares the ISS and OSS, input/output speed sensors. B) ECM/TCM has the look-up tables programmed in memory. So, at say 45mph ISS to OSS frequency = 500Hz to 450Hz (just for explanation sake). C) Each speed factor has a specific ISS-to-OSS ratio. D) If TCC is slipping, that ration will never match. CONTINUED 1:
ADPTraining question I have app Buick LeSabre custom.. I can go like 1 mile n loose all transmission until I shut it off in park start it and can go another mile would this be the tcc selenoid?
Hello, Thanks for posting. P0740 is a general code for the TCC. Yes, flushing the trans is the worst thing you could ever do. It might have clogged the solenoid. However, a few tests need to be done before condemning the TCC sol.
Ok, great good description. No SS can not be disconnected. The TCC sol. can be disconnected in most cases, certainly on your vehicle. You can disconnect the TCC connector and if your issue disappears then leave it that way. Your fuel economy will suffer a bit but if you do HWY miles then you'll be fine. Even if not disconnecting TCC will give you some time for you to fix it. It'll cost 500 to 900 to do the job. Engine has to be suspended and held so remove trans side pan. Thanks for posting.
THe problem with doing a trans fluid change is that you run a big risk of it never shifting again. At least the trans still shift, albeit, very badly. It is common knowledge on trans shops that once you do a trans fluid change you're gone. I don't mean the regular fluid replacements that are normal. Once the Trans fluid is burnt the valve body parts adapt to it and if you do a fluid change on burnt fluid mind as well do a rebuild. Hope it work for you. Thanks for posting.
Sorry for the delay. I didn't see comment until today. We have over 100 comments to answer everyday. Whatever you do don't do a trans flush or you run the risk of trans not shifting again. You need to do this test to weed out the TCC. As soon as the shudder starts, turn OFF the TCC. You may have to downshift to 5th or 4th gear, depending on your trans. If shudder stops then it's either TCC sol. or Torque converter itself. Post back with more... Thanks for posting.
Hello, good description. To replace the whole torque converter, drop the trans and it'll be sandwiched in between the engine and trans. THere's a bit possibility that your issue is the torque converter itself and not the TCC/solenoid. On the 4L60 the TCC is under the trans oil pan. But I think you'll be jumping the gun if you do replace the TCC, since it's probably tougher to do as a job. You can apply a ground to the TCC wire in drive and see if engine stalls (no one underneath car).
@Nooberatoor OK, we need to ind out the TCC code number. That'll be a big help. Grab a code scanner or reader and scan your vehicle. They're cheap to buy about $50 or so. Post back with the DTC or code number. TO pass inspection you'll have to fix this issue. It may be electronic or not, depends on the code. Hope to hear from you....Good luck.
From your description I think your issue is with the torque converter, solenoid, or circuit. Actuate the TCC solenoid in Park at Idle and see if the engine stalls. That'll tell you if the TCC sol and TC itself is working. If not then you're back to square one and still have to find out which is faulty. Good luck.
@you1tube13 Thanks for posting and very nice description. OK, if you're tight with money right now, as many folks are, JUST CUT THE WIRE for the TCC solenoid. It won't leave you stranded, but your fuel economy will suffer somewhat. Later on when your economy changes you can re-connect the wire. TCC solenoid only works at steady and cruise speeds. It locks the engine and transmission together, like a cluck on a standard transmission. That's why you vehicle jerks and may even stall, CONTINUED...
Hello, well this DTC 9 times out of 10 is the TCC solenoid itself. Remove the TCM connector and do a continuity test on the TCC. If open just replace. The O2 sensor code is unrelated. I would have to do a scan tool test on the O2 sensor then finalize with a graphing multi-meter or scope test on the O2. If response good then issue is air-fuel mixture, if not then replace O2 sensor. Your issues are pretty straightforward. Do those tests on the TCC then post back.
Circuit open for the TCC means that the solenoid has an open circuit. It's winding are cut. The TCC will not leave you stranded, so don't worry about that. What will suffer is your fuel efficiency 10 to 20%. To be sure, it may not be the TCC solenoid. It could be the wiring, connector or related ground and power feed connections. Let me know if I can be of further help. Good luck to you.
You'll probably need to rebuild the trans. Even with the Trans-connector disconnected you should still have 2nd gear, which is limp in mode gear. If you don't even have a low forward gear then the trans has to come apart. Good luck and thanks for posting.
@theASEtech Today's PCMs have flash memory. This means that the entire program that runs the engine can be replaced. In the old days you replaced the whole PCM or the Chip. No you re-flash them. You need re-programming equipment for that. Each manufacturer has it's own. If your vehicle is 2006 and up then you can use a generic equipment. You still need to purchase the program file from the manufacturer. Hope that helps...
Looks like a TCC issue. 0700 general fault is normally set together with another transmission fault code (ie. 0740). The TCC won't leave you stranded, but it'll impact fuel economy. You'll need to somehow activate the TCC SOL and see if engine dies at idle. Also do the same with KOEO and listen for a click. In the end you could have a clogged passage hardly identified without disassembly. Hope that helped and thanks for posting...
We always replay to these comments... We run the only automotive repair help service right here on this YT channel...Let us know what you need and we'll do our best to help you out...
Your Trans computer is seeing a discrepancy between ISS or OSS (input & output speed sensor). Most Hondas the solenoids are outside. One of the only manufacturers that does that, which is great. So yes you can do this yourself without dismantleling the trans. You may have to change the torque converter, so run the tests first. Good luck.
@g64870c No, why junk the car, unless it's run down. First check the fuse that feeds all the solenoids. ONE fuse feeds everyone in the trans. 2nd gear is the natural (all solenoids off) gear that the vehicle reverts to (limp-in mode). If fuse is good, then check wiring. If good then the TCM or ECM is setting LIM, at which point you'll need a scan tool to continue. Let me know and post some more.
Ok, you have to check trans fluid only with car running. Most TCCs are ground controlled, so power get to one wire and just ground the other wire right to the trans case. But, make sure it's Gnd controlled. When I said test at TCM it's because if wire is broken between trans and TCC, you'll know right away. From what you're mentioning, if you did test right, you're missing the 12 volts power feed. Get a Chilton or some publication that gives you wiring and component location. Keep me posted..
The Durango may have 3 different transmissions, so it hard to say until we know the trans type. We know this by comparing the oil pan. The TCC could be located at valve body, on its, etc. We have APPs and manuals both on Google-Play, Kindle and Amazon print for Dodge. You need to ID the trans first and you also need the data to proceed.
If your old TC was fine and new one doesn't work, then it's the TC. Why assume it's the TCC solenoid. Remove trans and replace with old converter, otherwise get yours warrantied. Sorry for the bad news, but don't fix if it's not broken. Good luck to you and thanks for posting.
CONTINUED: If you remove the brake light switch, not disconnect it, just pull it our so that the brake lights stay ON all the time, that'll disengage the TCC and issue should go away. Watch don't get a ticket for brake light failure. Then just snap brake switch back. Hope that helps...
Ok, to be fair, unless your trans shop shorted the circuitry, which is unlikely, the shop is not to be blamed. A TPS or a throttle issue would case rough idle and trans late shifting. What you think as a slipping trans, may be an engine performance issue. Concentrate on the engine and then go from there...Post back with more...
@lindseynorton28 Yes it is. I would to know the model and engine number of your Cadillac. On some, all it takes is the removal of the trans oil pan. On other models you'd have to remove the valve body. Keep us posted on your issue and we'll help out as best as possible. Thanks so much for posting...
I can't link from here but I'll send you a message. The TCC is close to the bell housing towards the front of the transmission, close to the TC itself.
@lindseynorton28 Replacing the shift solenoids (there are 2) is an easy job, they are in the lower pan, but the lower control valve must come off and there are a few check balls that must go back correctly. Before you do this, check power feed. The ECM provides ground to activate. Go slow and keep me posted... Good luck...
This post is not enough for what you need. You will have to educate yourself a bit and then run the test procedures on our publications and videos. Do a search on Amazon keyword "Mandy Concepcion, Author" and pick what you need. Good luck.
If you ever so lightly tap on the brake pedal, just so the brake light turns on, that disengages the TCC, but this test is very subjective meant for an experienced tech. Yes, low fluid level is a huge issue. Old fluid has a different viscosity than new one. Parts get used to old fluid. Change the fluid and they'll get stuck. Reputable tech should mind your pocket and advice of the drawbacks of fluid replacement. Be prepared to possibly rebuild trans if fluid is replaced. Good luck...
@you1tube13 Hi, thanks for posting. This video is more about the transmission internals. The tires are at the output shaft. In this case it's a rear drive transmission. Thanks again...
It's a TCC or torque converter code. You need to do the proper testing to determine if it's the converter, the solenoid, or related wiring. We have all the information you need for testing here in this channel. The rest you get from a service manual from Chilton or ALLDATA.
I work at a local Autozone. I had a customer come in yesterday with a late 90's buick century with 90k+ miles on it. The customer had me pull the OBDII troublecode, which was P0740. I then printed the code from our autozone database and one of the suggestions was a possible bad TCC solenoid. The customer did have a total power flush done approximately 2 months ago, which may or may not be relevant to the code. The customer also complained of hard shifting and shuddering.
Yes, beware of getting ripped OFF. Your code refers to an ELECTRICAL ISSUE and not a transmission rebuild. The TCC solenoid of which CODE P0743 refers to is replaceable. In your case for the Durango, it's not a difficult matter to remove the trans oil pan and have access to the TCC sol. You'll need wiring diagram and component location. But run all the necessary tests before doing anything. Post back with more if needed.
Good, well most Hondas have a single wire coming out of the solenoid, because they ground at the body. If not, disconnect sol and apply power and ground. Use a probe if you have one. If not jump wires. Don't apply power for more that 5 seconds, just in case they're duty cycle controlled. Polarity doesn't matter. It's a magnetic device and will actuate no matter what. Most sol. have a dark or black color to ID if needed. Google it. You want to see a stalling engine. Good luck.
The last possibility is the TCM, so leave that for last. If you start replacing parts like that you're going to spend lots of $. Do a stall test first, check TCC solenoid electrical power and ground, continuity and do a wiggle test. Your possibilities are TCC Sol., Electrical power and ground, TCM wire to Sol. or valve body (not likely). Finally, the TC
You'll get a different price depending where you go. Most shops will not get involved, they'll want to charge you for a whole rebuild. The good shops that know what they're doing will take a crack at it, but don't expect them to promise a repair and expect to pay for disassembly just to get to the part. There are many tricks that can be done to uncover the issue. They're all on our publications on Amazon and Google Play keyword Mandy Concepcion (author) and Automotive Transmissions. Good luck
Wow, Toyota replaced the ECM? What on Earth does the ECM has to do with the TCC? You have a performance issue or code. More than likely is in the torque converter itself. TC is separate from the transmission. You can replace it separately, as you may know. Force open the TCC sol. by applying power to it. If you hear click, 99% chance ok. If your transmission is working fine, possible TC fault. Also, double check ISS or OSS (turbine speed sensors) as could cause false 741 code.Thanks for posting
Ok, thanks for posting. You have this code, Which code? Your description of the symptom is right on, but we need to know more. Which code was set? and the engine size. Post back so that we can discern your issue and solve it. Thanks...
Disconnect TCC solenoid connector located by the behind the filler tube where it attaches to the a/t case. Clean thoroughly since this connector suffers from dirt connection issues. Code 37 points to the TCC sol. or the torque converter itself. Either is not easy to change. You could drive with this issue forever, but fuel efficiency will suffer. Your idle issue is totally unrelated. You could spend over $800, fix the TCC and still have an idle issue. I don't have enough to judge the idle issue.
Hello, forget ECM -Re-Flashing. If the original software was so wrong, how come it's been fine all these years. Re-flashing is used for specific minor corrections, mostly when erroneous codes are set, but it's not a repair. The procedure for your issue is like this: try and disconnect the TCC solenoid and drive the car for a few days. If the issue disappears then either the TCC sol. is faulty or the converter itself is bad. Most tech replace TCC sol. first, since it's easier then the converter.
It could be the TCC or the converter itself. Clean connector and reconnect. Do a visual inspection and look for broken wires. If on then post again for more.
It's simple, first, never buy used trans and let shop replace it. They can do whatever they want and it's your fault. Let them buy it, show you how much they paid and make them responsible. You've been had. Two, to check TCC system energize TCC sol at idle and engine should stall. If not sol or converter is faulty. If TCC sol clicks probably good. If easy to remove (outside) like most Hondas, blow air through it while actuating. If good replace converter. Post back with more. Good luck.
@MrSuperluk9000 I can tell you it is NOT the TCC or solenoid. The TCC may cause engine to stall or cause low fuel efficiency. First check fluid level. You symptoms are synonymous with low fluid level. If not, then there are many reasons for those symptoms. I don't recommend doing a fluid change. If you do the trans may never shift again and need a rebuild. Good luck.
@SDchargerfan619 We're talking about a drive-by-wire or electronic throttle systems. This systems has to be set or programmed properly. Sometimes with or without a scanner. It depends on the procedure for that Mitsubishi. In all honesty 9 times out of 10 whenever the TB is replaced it does not solve your issue. I need more information to help you out.
The TCC is separate from the transmission. But, from your description, it sounds like the pressure control solenoid is at fault. 700 is a general code. The Honda transmission is easy to deal with. Do some more tests into the pressures, not just a code retrieval, then post back with more. Thanks for posting.
@gajahesu Absolutely NOT. The TCC is meant for fuel economy. The TCC locks the converter and is essence meshes the engine and trans together. If the TCC is stuck open, the engine will stall when you come to a red light. TCC has no effect of shifting. It lock on when cruising on the freeway. It is disengaged and inactive during shifting. Impossible to know, but from the sound of it, your trans may need more complex work done to it. Make sure they changed trans filter as well. Let me know.
Yes, TCC mashes engine and transmission or wheels as one. The TC is similar to a regular plate clutch. The TC is a hydraulic clutch. It slips without TCC sol. engagement and is locked up or meshed with sol. engaged. Inside TC is a wet clutch that's mashed together when engaged. TCC is used to save fuel while cruising, much like a standard transmission. TCC engaged = standard transmission in gear with clutch on. What happens? Engine stalls. Make sense?...Post back with more.
Hi, I have the p0740 code on my 2010 jeep commander with 545rfe transmission. Do you know where the tcc solenoid located there? I didn’t find any information about that
CONTINUED: I have seen the re-flashing tactic used as a sales pitch many times to take $75 from customers. 99 times out of 100 it doesn't work. You have an issue and sounds like TCC related. This issue won't leave you stranded, but will cause fuel efficiency issues. Let us know how you did and good luck...
continued ... the codes that comes again& again are: P0740 P030 P0422 P0730 P0411 P1300 so later I will change the oil and flush the trans, repair the VSS, make sure all the connections are good to see how it will do, or what do you think Mr Mandy?
No, no need for a meter. Use a test light instead. Clip TL to chassis, disconnect and probe both TCC (2 wires) wires. One should give you 12V. Then use long cable, disconnect from chassis and clip to battery positive. Probe with TL tip to other wire, start car and see if you see a pulsing TL. Do these tests from the TCM inside car, if it is indeed inside, sometimes outside. Don't go under car. If you do do it at your own risk. If U probe the TCC neg wire and see 12V key on then continuity OK.
"When she slows down the car dies" is that right? So the engine stalls right when you come to a full stop? If so then yes, the torque converter stays stuck or activated, either to a solenoid issue (more than likely) or to the torque converter itself. Post back with more info...
It's not the software, otherwise it would have done it since new. You may even ref;ash the ECM and temporarily it'll feel right, but the issue still lies hidden. I need to know the exact code - definition if possible. I already know the symptoms, but given it to me next time anyways, too many comments to go though each day. Good luck and hope to hear from you soon...
I have a 2001 Dodge Durango. I had to replace the ECM due an intermittent "No Buss". Now that the new computer is in and working. Had no codes before the ECM malfunctioned. I get a P0740 code. Everything is operating fine. No problems shifting or accelerating. I have checked my trans fluid level and it is within the safe area. Also it has only been about 15,000 miles since it was changed. Any ideas as to why I am now getting this code?
Ok, here's the DTC code setting criteria for P0740 and Dodge taken from my Scan-1 OBD-2 Software Information System. Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Code Criteria Bellow: No PCM or TCM codes set, vehicle in 3rd gear with TCC unlocked for 10 seconds, VSS less than 70 mph, throttle applied to 1 /3 open until the TCC locks, TCC locked for 5 seconds, then test started and the PCM detected that the engine speed (RPM) did not drop with the TCC engaged. Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth (above) Hope this helps. Let me know.
Thanks so much for your explanation. Awe some. I am always impressed with your knowledge. Thanks for taking so much time in explaining things. You are one super Geek in Auto mobile troubleshooting.
code P0743 popped up on my 06 Ford Explorer, so I inspected electrical male wire connector, I removed the plastic wire protector and found the wires broken I'm pretty sure they were making contact with each other causing transmission to act up so I went ahead and taped up the wires and tested and gave me no problems but the next day started to act up again and code popped up also can u please help me out and tell me what else can be the problem thank you very much
true what you said Mandy, but I think if you have a shifting problem with the trans, better to change the fluid before you overhaul or replace, I got my self a used beetle 2000 with 2.0 engine, and it has a trans problem, when I scan it it gives me all kinds of codes, after i clear the codes it runs better but not fine, also when it is cold it runs better, the shifting is very bad some times I don't get the 4th, 120Km/h@ 4800 Rpm, problem with the speed gauge.maybe faulty VSS, to be continued..
We have 04 jeep wrangler unlimited. We have a shudder that seems to come and go. It has a code of p0740. We have always done regular services on the trans. It has 135k miles now. The dealer said it had the death code and needed to be rebiult or replaced. Any tips or ideas. Can I service the 42rle tcc sol on my on. I did add some shudder gaurd from oriellys and it seemed to help. Thank you for your time.
I know there have been a lot of posts on this issue but Im going to add to it and I appreciate your answer. 2002 Chevy Impala, code P0742. In the morning it runs fine but after a long drive (to work, grrr) the shuddering, no downshifting unless stopped, hard shifts, etc. Sound familiar? How hard is it to replace the solenoid? Can this be disconnected if expensive and get done at a later time? Advance Auto lists the TCC PWM at $30, labor? Thanks for your time.
@ADPTraining CONTUNUED... Because the engine and transmission stay meshed together. If you cut the TCC wire, the issue 9 times out of 10 disappears. THIS IS NOT A REPAIR. I'm just trying to save you money for now. The fix is to either change the TCC sol. or the torque converter itself. If you cut the wire and problem persists, then your torque converter is defective. Let me know if you need further assistance and good luck to you....
a friend has a 2000 neon the scaner pick up po 0743 her issue is when she slows down it dies does that sound like the tcc but the battery does not drain she can start it back up ?
I can tell you it is NOT the TCC or solenoid. The TCC may cause engine to stall or cause low fuel efficiency. First check fluid level. You symptoms are synonymous with low fluid level. If not, then there are many reasons for those symptoms. I don't recommend doing a fluid change. If you do the trans may never shift again and need a rebuild. Good luck.
hi mandy.. i need ur help and came to you after searching web all over.. finally thought u may help me. 1) RPM is derived from crank sensor right?. It has nothing to do with Input speed sensor or output speed sensor in transmission is that right. 2) i was driving at 45mph, with RPM around 2500 or so i let gas pedal off, at the same time i manually shifted gear liver to 3, RPM raised immediately to 3000 or so. What i didnot understand is vehicle at 45mph, never changed, continued.
Ok, remove all electrical connections from transmission (main connector). Disable traction control if any and see if trans works on the ground. Your issue is a strange one. With all connections off car is in limp in or it's natural gear, 2nd gear. Take it on a short road test at no higher than 20 MPH. if fine then your issue is electrical. Post back then with results...Good luck.
I have a 2006 Escalade ESV that has a very mild shudder when light acceleration is applied when in overdrive. If I touch the brake while it is shuddering the shudder immediatly stops. I think it may be the TCC solenoid but dont know where it is located on this transmission. Can I remove the bottom pan and access it? If so how do I identify it? Im thinking of changing the transmission fluid also. Will that help? Should I flush the transmission as well?
I have a 2002 Honda Accord V6 and I took my car to AutoZone cause of the Service Engine Light and they gave me a code, P0740 which is the TCC Solenoid. I have also notice delayed shifts between 1st and 2nd. Can I replace this solenoid myself in the driveway or does the entire transmission need to be dropped to replace it and is it recommended to replace the transmission? 140K miles is on the vehicle now.
0741 code on 2016 crv with cvt Car drives fine no symptoms. 3 years ago we did flush and change fluid the shop tells us it needs a 5400 dollar transmission replacement? It drives fine any help on what to check . Also how long should I leave the negative battery off 15 or 30 minutes I tried 5 and the light went out. Are they bullshit?
Toyota allion 260- recently get an issue once i start the car after 8,9 hours. (When engine is cold) I can start the car normally without any issue and at the N,P gears when i push the accelerator RPM goes up and no any issue can identify. But when i change the gear to D and when i push the accelerator RPM does not go more than 2000 and car can not pickup a hill. But after few min it comes back to normal and car runs perfectly. no jerks no gear engagement issues or vibrations can be identified. To check above problem on a flat road, i stopped the car on a flat road and kept two wood pieces to wheels and redo the above steps to check what happen. same issue was there. Car can accelerate on P & N Gears, when i change the gear to D and when i push the accelerator RPM does not go more than 2000 and car can not move forwatd by climbing up the wood piece But after few min car come back to normal and can pass that wood piece. Mileage 85000KM & 80000KM service done with toyota. Spark Plugs not changed/Air Filter changed/CVT changed at toyota No check engine lights or error codes Any suggestions?
Ok, looks like limp in mode is reached at these very cold conditions after starting. Could be a temp sensor at engine or transmission. We make lots of equipment that can help you out. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
Hello I have a 1996 Chevrolet k1500 4X4 with a 5.0 motor and a 4L60E transmission in it. I've been experiencing hard shifts especially gears 1-2. So, I got it diagnosed and codes P1860 and P1870 came up. Which is the Torque Converter Solenoid and the transmission is slipping. My first question is how much a solenoid/solenoid circuit costs and how hard are they to replace? Is it a job I could do in a day in the garage or does it need to be taken to a garage?Any recommendations would be great!
I'm getting the generic PO743, my transmission is sticking between gears causing a delayed shift and an rpm spike if I stay on the gas. Do you think this would be the TCC solenoid?
I have a 2009 jeep liberty it seems like it won't go passed 40 then lose power. my check engine light came on. a code popped up p0740 torque coverter clutch soleniod. can I do that my self or should I let a shop do it?
okay i have a little problem...i have a 1997 Chevrolet 1500..automatic....when i put it in reverse the gear doesnt engage at all...it does move forward but only makes 2 shifts...and it makes a ratlin noise...my dad says to change the torque converter sensor...and i think its the shift solenoids...i dont know what to do..help please
I have an 07 Tahoe 5.3 flex fuel. It was shuddering only at speeds around 43mph and up. It would only shudder if I cruised at the same speed, any speed over 43mph. I brought it to a shop and replaced the converter with a new billet converter, shift kit junior, aluminum piston kit, 1-2 accumulator aluminum piston and a new larger cool. Now not only does it shudder at the same higher speeds but it also does it at lower speeds. Its noticeable around 20mph to 35mph where it sounds like metal is vibrating then it goes away. I was told to replace the TCC valve with an on/off valve. I was also told to find someone capable of using a scanner. Can you give me any advise as to what the problem could be? Thanks
Hey. I have a jeep 2002 grand cherokee limited V8 175k miles and I have my check engine lighg on and the cause of it is a code number p0740 TCC. When I turn my car on it SOMETIMES takes 2 or 3 seconds for the engine to turn on after i turned the car on. And when im driving the speed odameter arrow... does not go up smoothly... it sort of moves like a seconds hand clock. I would like to get some information on what needs to be fixed and especially price rangd.
You're asking lots of questions and I don't have much to go on. First, Jeeps dashboards are the master network controller. Often if the dash goes out, the transmission may not shift. The TCC will not make the engine not start or delay start. The odometer is the one that records the miles traveled; Do you mean the SPEEDOMETER? If so that's a tail tail dash module issue. THe dash and the module are one unit. Post back with more.
On my 99 yukon it will shift through all the gears perfect but after the rpms drop down after its in overdrive I sometimes get a pretty good jerk /clunk. This always happens around 40-50 mph. Can anyone help me out please?
i have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 v8 magnum sport, my check engine light went on so i took it to autozone and the computer brought back a error reading or something saying, "Replace Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid, and the error codes read, P1740 TCM Internal Malfunction. what could this be? Before i had my buddy replace the transmission fluid (no shavings but dark in color) because i guess i accidentally put it in overdrive because the light was on for that and the trans temp light was on too and it started smoking from engine so he fixed it by replacing the trans fluid (very well done btw), i do think it needs just a bit more trans fluid because it very minorly jerks but soon after he did all that this happened. What could this error be that i got from Autozone? Thanks in advance :)
Absolutely NOT... TCC solenoid has nothing to do with your idle stability. TCC would have a minor influence of fuel efficiency, but with today's high fuel prices every little bit counts. Why would you think it's the TCC sol??? THanks for posting.
Great video. Kinda scary to think i may have to replace the converter. Cant afford that right now. I was told that there is a solenoid that may be bad. I have a 2008 GMC envoy. I had my motor replaced with one that had 46K on it. The car itself now has 165k on the tranny. I'm contemplating changing fluid filter and solenoid. And pray for the best.
I checked that the shudder would stop when I pressed the break and it did. Doesnt that take the torque converter out of lockup when you do that ? Does that mean that the TCC Solenoid is working? I cant find a manual for this truck and do not know where the TCC Solenoid is. What do I have to remove to get to it? I added 3/4 Qt fluid and the shudder seems to have gone away. Could this have been my problem. I am planning to do a fluid and filter change . Why is the flush bad?
I have a 2000 chevy impala V6 and I took my car to AutoZone cause of the Service Engine Light and they gave me a code, P0741 which is the TCC Solenoid and P0751 which is the Transmission Control Solenoid. I have also notice delayed shifts between 1st and 2nd. Can I replace this solenoid myself in the driveway or does the entire transmission need to be dropped to replace it and is it recommended to replace the transmission? also can you please provide manufactured part number for the TCC. 10x
CONTINUED FROM 1:
E) On modern vehicles, if the tire size changed, it'll upset ISS-to-OSS ratios, so always program new tire size if it has changed or stick to original.
The TCC meshes or lock the engine to the tires. Any TCC slip will be registered as an off frequency differential. ECM/TCM allows for some offset threshold, but if differential beyond threshold, a DTC is issues. Hope that helps...Thanks as always for participating...
Wow, nice question and what a great description. Now I know that get the theory. Here's the answer:
A) The ECM or TCM compares the ISS and OSS, input/output speed sensors.
B) ECM/TCM has the look-up tables programmed in memory. So, at say 45mph ISS to OSS frequency = 500Hz to 450Hz (just for explanation sake).
C) Each speed factor has a specific ISS-to-OSS ratio.
D) If TCC is slipping, that ration will never match.
CONTINUED 1:
ADPTraining question I have app Buick LeSabre custom.. I can go like 1 mile n loose all transmission until I shut it off in park start it and can go another mile would this be the tcc selenoid?
Hello, Thanks for posting. P0740 is a general code for the TCC. Yes, flushing the trans is the worst thing you could ever do. It might have clogged the solenoid. However, a few tests need to be done before condemning the TCC sol.
Ok, great good description. No SS can not be disconnected. The TCC sol. can be disconnected in most cases, certainly on your vehicle. You can disconnect the TCC connector and if your issue disappears then leave it that way. Your fuel economy will suffer a bit but if you do HWY miles then you'll be fine. Even if not disconnecting TCC will give you some time for you to fix it. It'll cost 500 to 900 to do the job. Engine has to be suspended and held so remove trans side pan. Thanks for posting.
THe problem with doing a trans fluid change is that you run a big risk of it never shifting again. At least the trans still shift, albeit, very badly. It is common knowledge on trans shops that once you do a trans fluid change you're gone. I don't mean the regular fluid replacements that are normal. Once the Trans fluid is burnt the valve body parts adapt to it and if you do a fluid change on burnt fluid mind as well do a rebuild. Hope it work for you. Thanks for posting.
Sorry for the delay. I didn't see comment until today. We have over 100 comments to answer everyday. Whatever you do don't do a trans flush or you run the risk of trans not shifting again. You need to do this test to weed out the TCC. As soon as the shudder starts, turn OFF the TCC. You may have to downshift to 5th or 4th gear, depending on your trans. If shudder stops then it's either TCC sol. or Torque converter itself. Post back with more... Thanks for posting.
Hello, good description. To replace the whole torque converter, drop the trans and it'll be sandwiched in between the engine and trans. THere's a bit possibility that your issue is the torque converter itself and not the TCC/solenoid. On the 4L60 the TCC is under the trans oil pan. But I think you'll be jumping the gun if you do replace the TCC, since it's probably tougher to do as a job. You can apply a ground to the TCC wire in drive and see if engine stalls (no one underneath car).
@Nooberatoor OK, we need to ind out the TCC code number. That'll be a big help. Grab a code scanner or reader and scan your vehicle. They're cheap to buy about $50 or so. Post back with the DTC or code number. TO pass inspection you'll have to fix this issue. It may be electronic or not, depends on the code. Hope to hear from you....Good luck.
CONTINUED: If the engine does not stall then torque converter is defective, so replace it. Post back with more after you do this test. Good luck.
From your description I think your issue is with the torque converter, solenoid, or circuit. Actuate the TCC solenoid in Park at Idle and see if the engine stalls. That'll tell you if the TCC sol and TC itself is working. If not then you're back to square one and still have to find out which is faulty. Good luck.
@you1tube13 Thanks for posting and very nice description. OK, if you're tight with money right now, as many folks are, JUST CUT THE WIRE for the TCC solenoid. It won't leave you stranded, but your fuel economy will suffer somewhat. Later on when your economy changes you can re-connect the wire. TCC solenoid only works at steady and cruise speeds. It locks the engine and transmission together, like a cluck on a standard transmission. That's why you vehicle jerks and may even stall, CONTINUED...
Hello, well this DTC 9 times out of 10 is the TCC solenoid itself. Remove the TCM connector and do a continuity test on the TCC. If open just replace. The O2 sensor code is unrelated. I would have to do a scan tool test on the O2 sensor then finalize with a graphing multi-meter or scope test on the O2. If response good then issue is air-fuel mixture, if not then replace O2 sensor. Your issues are pretty straightforward. Do those tests on the TCC then post back.
Circuit open for the TCC means that the solenoid has an open circuit. It's winding are cut. The TCC will not leave you stranded, so don't worry about that. What will suffer is your fuel efficiency 10 to 20%. To be sure, it may not be the TCC solenoid. It could be the wiring, connector or related ground and power feed connections. Let me know if I can be of further help. Good luck to you.
You'll probably need to rebuild the trans. Even with the Trans-connector disconnected you should still have 2nd gear, which is limp in mode gear. If you don't even have a low forward gear then the trans has to come apart. Good luck and thanks for posting.
@theASEtech Today's PCMs have flash memory. This means that the entire program that runs the engine can be replaced. In the old days you replaced the whole PCM or the Chip. No you re-flash them. You need re-programming equipment for that. Each manufacturer has it's own. If your vehicle is 2006 and up then you can use a generic equipment. You still need to purchase the program file from the manufacturer. Hope that helps...
Looks like a TCC issue. 0700 general fault is normally set together with another transmission fault code (ie. 0740). The TCC won't leave you stranded, but it'll impact fuel economy. You'll need to somehow activate the TCC SOL and see if engine dies at idle. Also do the same with KOEO and listen for a click. In the end you could have a clogged passage hardly identified without disassembly. Hope that helped and thanks for posting...
Well, you may have a stick-shift conversion that was done way back. So, the TCM is still auto and the trans is stick. Thanks for posting.
We always replay to these comments... We run the only automotive repair help service right here on this YT channel...Let us know what you need and we'll do our best to help you out...
Your Trans computer is seeing a discrepancy between ISS or OSS (input & output speed sensor). Most Hondas the solenoids are outside. One of the only manufacturers that does that, which is great. So yes you can do this yourself without dismantleling the trans. You may have to change the torque converter, so run the tests first. Good luck.
@g64870c No, why junk the car, unless it's run down. First check the fuse that feeds all the solenoids. ONE fuse feeds everyone in the trans. 2nd gear is the natural (all solenoids off) gear that the vehicle reverts to (limp-in mode). If fuse is good, then check wiring. If good then the TCM or ECM is setting LIM, at which point you'll need a scan tool to continue. Let me know and post some more.
There are entire manuals for locations. ALLDATA has a one vehicle paid service at a reasonable price. Go with it.
Ok, you have to check trans fluid only with car running. Most TCCs are ground controlled, so power get to one wire and just ground the other wire right to the trans case. But, make sure it's Gnd controlled. When I said test at TCM it's because if wire is broken between trans and TCC, you'll know right away. From what you're mentioning, if you did test right, you're missing the 12 volts power feed. Get a Chilton or some publication that gives you wiring and component location. Keep me posted..
The Durango may have 3 different transmissions, so it hard to say until we know the trans type. We know this by comparing the oil pan. The TCC could be located at valve body, on its, etc. We have APPs and manuals both on Google-Play, Kindle and Amazon print for Dodge. You need to ID the trans first and you also need the data to proceed.
If your old TC was fine and new one doesn't work, then it's the TC. Why assume it's the TCC solenoid. Remove trans and replace with old converter, otherwise get yours warrantied. Sorry for the bad news, but don't fix if it's not broken. Good luck to you and thanks for posting.
CONTINUED: If you remove the brake light switch, not disconnect it, just pull it our so that the brake lights stay ON all the time, that'll disengage the TCC and issue should go away. Watch don't get a ticket for brake light failure. Then just snap brake switch back. Hope that helps...
Ok, to be fair, unless your trans shop shorted the circuitry, which is unlikely, the shop is not to be blamed. A TPS or a throttle issue would case rough idle and trans late shifting. What you think as a slipping trans, may be an engine performance issue. Concentrate on the engine and then go from there...Post back with more...
@lindseynorton28 Yes it is. I would to know the model and engine number of your Cadillac. On some, all it takes is the removal of the trans oil pan. On other models you'd have to remove the valve body. Keep us posted on your issue and we'll help out as best as possible. Thanks so much for posting...
I can't link from here but I'll send you a message. The TCC is close to the bell housing towards the front of the transmission, close to the TC itself.
You need the right trans manual for that and with a good photo or diagram representation. Not all manual have it that clear. Good luck...
@lindseynorton28 Replacing the shift solenoids (there are 2) is an easy job, they are in the lower pan, but the lower control valve must come off and there are a few check balls that must go back correctly. Before you do this, check power feed. The ECM provides ground to activate. Go slow and keep me posted... Good luck...
Is the fluid low? Did you check it?
This post is not enough for what you need. You will have to educate yourself a bit and then run the test procedures on our publications and videos. Do a search on Amazon keyword "Mandy Concepcion, Author" and pick what you need. Good luck.
If you ever so lightly tap on the brake pedal, just so the brake light turns on, that disengages the TCC, but this test is very subjective meant for an experienced tech. Yes, low fluid level is a huge issue. Old fluid has a different viscosity than new one. Parts get used to old fluid. Change the fluid and they'll get stuck. Reputable tech should mind your pocket and advice of the drawbacks of fluid replacement. Be prepared to possibly rebuild trans if fluid is replaced. Good luck...
@you1tube13 Hi, thanks for posting. This video is more about the transmission internals. The tires are at the output shaft. In this case it's a rear drive transmission. Thanks again...
It's a TCC or torque converter code. You need to do the proper testing to determine if it's the converter, the solenoid, or related wiring. We have all the information you need for testing here in this channel. The rest you get from a service manual from Chilton or ALLDATA.
I work at a local Autozone. I had a customer come in yesterday with a late 90's buick century with 90k+ miles on it. The customer had me pull the OBDII troublecode, which was P0740. I then printed the code from our autozone database and one of the suggestions was a possible bad TCC solenoid. The customer did have a total power flush done approximately 2 months ago, which may or may not be relevant to the code. The customer also complained of hard shifting and shuddering.
Yes, beware of getting ripped OFF. Your code refers to an ELECTRICAL ISSUE and not a transmission rebuild. The TCC solenoid of which CODE P0743 refers to is replaceable. In your case for the Durango, it's not a difficult matter to remove the trans oil pan and have access to the TCC sol. You'll need wiring diagram and component location. But run all the necessary tests before doing anything. Post back with more if needed.
Good, well most Hondas have a single wire coming out of the solenoid, because they ground at the body. If not, disconnect sol and apply power and ground. Use a probe if you have one. If not jump wires. Don't apply power for more that 5 seconds, just in case they're duty cycle controlled. Polarity doesn't matter. It's a magnetic device and will actuate no matter what. Most sol. have a dark or black color to ID if needed. Google it. You want to see a stalling engine. Good luck.
The last possibility is the TCM, so leave that for last. If you start replacing parts like that you're going to spend lots of $. Do a stall test first, check TCC solenoid electrical power and ground, continuity and do a wiggle test. Your possibilities are TCC Sol., Electrical power and ground, TCM wire to Sol. or valve body (not likely). Finally, the TC
You'll get a different price depending where you go. Most shops will not get involved, they'll want to charge you for a whole rebuild. The good shops that know what they're doing will take a crack at it, but don't expect them to promise a repair and expect to pay for disassembly just to get to the part. There are many tricks that can be done to uncover the issue. They're all on our publications on Amazon and Google Play keyword Mandy Concepcion (author) and Automotive Transmissions. Good luck
Wow, Toyota replaced the ECM? What on Earth does the ECM has to do with the TCC? You have a performance issue or code. More than likely is in the torque converter itself. TC is separate from the transmission. You can replace it separately, as you may know. Force open the TCC sol. by applying power to it. If you hear click, 99% chance ok. If your transmission is working fine, possible TC fault. Also, double check ISS or OSS (turbine speed sensors) as could cause false 741 code.Thanks for posting
Ok, thanks for posting. You have this code, Which code? Your description of the symptom is right on, but we need to know more. Which code was set? and the engine size. Post back so that we can discern your issue and solve it. Thanks...
@brspaworks TCC=torque converter clutch, PCM=powertrain control module, TCM=transmission control module
Disconnect TCC solenoid connector located by the behind the filler tube where it attaches to the a/t case. Clean thoroughly since this connector suffers from dirt connection issues. Code 37 points to the TCC sol. or the torque converter itself. Either is not easy to change. You could drive with this issue forever, but fuel efficiency will suffer. Your idle issue is totally unrelated. You could spend over $800, fix the TCC and still have an idle issue. I don't have enough to judge the idle issue.
ADPTraining
Hope you can share your experiences after repairs. Good luck.
Thanks, I appreciate the reply. I'll give that a shot and let you know if I run into any other problems!
Hello, forget ECM -Re-Flashing. If the original software was so wrong, how come it's been fine all these years. Re-flashing is used for specific minor corrections, mostly when erroneous codes are set, but it's not a repair. The procedure for your issue is like this: try and disconnect the TCC solenoid and drive the car for a few days. If the issue disappears then either the TCC sol. is faulty or the converter itself is bad. Most tech replace TCC sol. first, since it's easier then the converter.
It could be the TCC or the converter itself. Clean connector and reconnect. Do a visual inspection and look for broken wires. If on then post again for more.
It's simple, first, never buy used trans and let shop replace it. They can do whatever they want and it's your fault. Let them buy it, show you how much they paid and make them responsible. You've been had. Two, to check TCC system energize TCC sol at idle and engine should stall. If not sol or converter is faulty. If TCC sol clicks probably good. If easy to remove (outside) like most Hondas, blow air through it while actuating. If good replace converter. Post back with more. Good luck.
@MrSuperluk9000 I can tell you it is NOT the TCC or solenoid. The TCC may cause engine to stall or cause low fuel efficiency. First check fluid level. You symptoms are synonymous with low fluid level. If not, then there are many reasons for those symptoms. I don't recommend doing a fluid change. If you do the trans may never shift again and need a rebuild. Good luck.
@SDchargerfan619 We're talking about a drive-by-wire or electronic throttle systems. This systems has to be set or programmed properly. Sometimes with or without a scanner. It depends on the procedure for that Mitsubishi. In all honesty 9 times out of 10 whenever the TB is replaced it does not solve your issue. I need more information to help you out.
The TCC is separate from the transmission. But, from your description, it sounds like the pressure control solenoid is at fault. 700 is a general code. The Honda transmission is easy to deal with. Do some more tests into the pressures, not just a code retrieval, then post back with more. Thanks for posting.
@gajahesu Absolutely NOT. The TCC is meant for fuel economy. The TCC locks the converter and is essence meshes the engine and trans together. If the TCC is stuck open, the engine will stall when you come to a red light. TCC has no effect of shifting. It lock on when cruising on the freeway. It is disengaged and inactive during shifting. Impossible to know, but from the sound of it, your trans may need more complex work done to it. Make sure they changed trans filter as well. Let me know.
Yes, TCC mashes engine and transmission or wheels as one. The TC is similar to a regular plate clutch. The TC is a hydraulic clutch. It slips without TCC sol. engagement and is locked up or meshed with sol. engaged. Inside TC is a wet clutch that's mashed together when engaged. TCC is used to save fuel while cruising, much like a standard transmission. TCC engaged = standard transmission in gear with clutch on. What happens? Engine stalls. Make sense?...Post back with more.
Hi, I have the p0740 code on my 2010 jeep commander with 545rfe transmission.
Do you know where the tcc solenoid located there? I didn’t find any information about that
Mitchell
Replaced the TCC solenoid on 2003 deville. Seemed to work fine but after I drive and put into park a high idle up to 2800 rpm. Any thoughts ?
IAC
@12345marco12 Yes, it usually is. Depending on the make, some are easily located by removing the trans oil pan. Thanks for posting.
CONTINUED: I have seen the re-flashing tactic used as a sales pitch many times to take $75 from customers. 99 times out of 100 it doesn't work. You have an issue and sounds like TCC related. This issue won't leave you stranded, but will cause fuel efficiency issues. Let us know how you did and good luck...
continued ...
the codes that comes again& again are:
P0740
P030
P0422
P0730
P0411
P1300
so later I will change the oil and flush the trans, repair the VSS, make sure all the connections are good to see how it will do, or what do you think Mr Mandy?
No, no need for a meter. Use a test light instead. Clip TL to chassis, disconnect and probe both TCC (2 wires) wires. One should give you 12V. Then use long cable, disconnect from chassis and clip to battery positive. Probe with TL tip to other wire, start car and see if you see a pulsing TL. Do these tests from the TCM inside car, if it is indeed inside, sometimes outside. Don't go under car. If you do do it at your own risk. If U probe the TCC neg wire and see 12V key on then continuity OK.
"When she slows down the car dies" is that right? So the engine stalls right when you come to a full stop? If so then yes, the torque converter stays stuck or activated, either to a solenoid issue (more than likely) or to the torque converter itself. Post back with more info...
It's not the software, otherwise it would have done it since new. You may even ref;ash the ECM and temporarily it'll feel right, but the issue still lies hidden. I need to know the exact code - definition if possible. I already know the symptoms, but given it to me next time anyways, too many comments to go though each day. Good luck and hope to hear from you soon...
I have a 2001 Dodge Durango. I had to replace the ECM due an intermittent "No Buss". Now that the new computer is in and working. Had no codes before the ECM malfunctioned. I get a P0740 code. Everything is operating fine. No problems shifting or accelerating. I have checked my trans fluid level and it is within the safe area. Also it has only been about 15,000 miles since it was changed. Any ideas as to why I am now getting this code?
Ok, here's the DTC code setting criteria for P0740 and Dodge taken from my Scan-1 OBD-2 Software Information System.
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Code Criteria Bellow: No PCM or TCM codes set, vehicle in 3rd gear with TCC unlocked for 10 seconds, VSS less than 70 mph, throttle applied to 1 /3 open until the TCC locks, TCC locked for 5 seconds, then test started and the PCM detected that the engine speed (RPM) did not drop with the TCC engaged. Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth (above)
Hope this helps. Let me know.
Thanks so much for your explanation. Awe some. I am always impressed with your knowledge. Thanks for taking so much time in explaining things. You are one super Geek in Auto mobile troubleshooting.
code P0743 popped up on my 06 Ford Explorer, so I inspected electrical male wire connector, I removed the plastic wire protector and found the wires broken I'm pretty sure they were making contact with each other causing transmission to act up so I went ahead and taped up the wires and tested and gave me no problems but the next day started to act up again and code popped up also can u please help me out and tell me what else can be the problem thank you very much
true what you said Mandy, but I think if you have a shifting problem with the trans, better to change the fluid before you overhaul or replace, I got my self a used beetle 2000 with 2.0 engine, and it has a trans problem, when I scan it it gives me all kinds of codes, after i clear the codes it runs better but not fine, also when it is cold it runs better, the shifting is very bad some times I don't get the 4th, 120Km/h@ 4800 Rpm, problem with the speed gauge.maybe faulty VSS, to be continued..
Transmission Troubleshooter Interactive Software... www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/auto_repair_transmission_software.html
ADPTraining torque converter clutch selenoid performan
We have 04 jeep wrangler unlimited. We have a shudder that seems to come and go. It has a code of p0740. We have always done regular services on the trans. It has 135k miles now. The dealer said it had the death code and needed to be rebiult or replaced. Any tips or ideas. Can I service the 42rle tcc sol on my on. I did add some shudder gaurd from oriellys and it seemed to help. Thank you for your time.
hey i have subaru legacy 95 in this is code p0740 i don't what's is it correctly can you help me
I know there have been a lot of posts on this issue but Im going to add to it and I appreciate your answer. 2002 Chevy Impala, code P0742. In the morning it runs fine but after a long drive (to work, grrr) the shuddering, no downshifting unless stopped, hard shifts, etc. Sound familiar? How hard is it to replace the solenoid? Can this be disconnected if expensive and get done at a later time? Advance Auto lists the TCC PWM at $30, labor? Thanks for your time.
Yes, Pontiac.
ADPT what a PCM Flash means does it cost to much? or who can do it? thanks so much for the help
@ADPTraining CONTUNUED... Because the engine and transmission stay meshed together. If you cut the TCC wire, the issue 9 times out of 10 disappears. THIS IS NOT A REPAIR. I'm just trying to save you money for now. The fix is to either change the TCC sol. or the torque converter itself. If you cut the wire and problem persists, then your torque converter is defective. Let me know if you need further assistance and good luck to you....
No voltage to VSS sensor < P0742 .Torque converter clutch circuit stays open. Faulty ground wire to VSS. .
Look for another shorted sensor.
I have 2007-08 Dodge Nitro 2.8L Automatic, fault code is P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit.
Please advice
Check sensor ground and 5v ref.
a friend has a 2000 neon the scaner pick up po 0743 her issue is when she slows down it dies does that sound like the tcc but the battery does not drain she can start it back up ?
TCC stuck on
I can tell you it is NOT the TCC or solenoid. The TCC may cause engine to stall or cause low fuel efficiency. First check fluid level. You symptoms are synonymous with low fluid level. If not, then there are many reasons for those symptoms. I don't recommend doing a fluid change. If you do the trans may never shift again and need a rebuild. Good luck.
hi mandy.. i need ur help and came to you after searching web all over.. finally thought u may help me.
1) RPM is derived from crank sensor right?. It has nothing to do with Input speed sensor or output speed sensor in transmission is that right.
2) i was driving at 45mph, with RPM around 2500 or so i let gas pedal off, at the same time i manually shifted gear liver to 3, RPM raised immediately to 3000 or so. What i didnot understand is vehicle at 45mph, never changed, continued.
Vss vehicle speed sensor
Thank you...
Ok, remove all electrical connections from transmission (main connector). Disable traction control if any and see if trans works on the ground. Your issue is a strange one. With all connections off car is in limp in or it's natural gear, 2nd gear. Take it on a short road test at no higher than 20 MPH. if fine then your issue is electrical. Post back then with results...Good luck.
I have a 2006 Escalade ESV that has a very mild shudder when light acceleration is applied when in overdrive. If I touch the brake while it is shuddering the shudder immediatly stops. I think it may be the TCC solenoid but dont know where it is located on this transmission. Can I remove the bottom pan and access it? If so how do I identify it? Im thinking of changing the transmission fluid also. Will that help? Should I flush the transmission as well?
I have a 2002 Honda Accord V6 and I took my car to AutoZone cause of the Service Engine Light and they gave me a code, P0740 which is the TCC Solenoid. I have also notice delayed shifts between 1st and 2nd. Can I replace this solenoid myself in the driveway or does the entire transmission need to be dropped to replace it and is it recommended to replace the transmission? 140K miles is on the vehicle now.
0741 code on 2016 crv with cvt
Car drives fine no symptoms. 3 years ago we did flush and change fluid the shop tells us it needs a 5400 dollar transmission replacement? It drives fine any help on what to check .
Also how long should I leave the negative battery off 15 or 30 minutes I tried 5 and the light went out. Are they bullshit?
Don't disconnect battery. Drives fine then keep driving.
Toyota allion 260- recently get an issue once i start the car after 8,9 hours. (When engine is cold)
I can start the car normally without any issue and at the N,P gears when i push the accelerator RPM goes up and no any issue can identify.
But when i change the gear to D and when i push the accelerator RPM does not go more than 2000 and car can not pickup a hill. But after few min it comes back to normal and car runs perfectly. no jerks no gear engagement issues or vibrations can be identified.
To check above problem on a flat road, i stopped the car on a flat road and kept two wood pieces to wheels and redo the above steps to check what happen. same issue was there. Car can accelerate on P & N Gears, when i change the gear to D and when i push the accelerator RPM does not go more than 2000 and car can not move forwatd by climbing up the wood piece But after few min car come back to normal and can pass that wood piece.
Mileage 85000KM & 80000KM service done with toyota.
Spark Plugs not changed/Air Filter changed/CVT changed at toyota
No check engine lights or error codes
Any suggestions?
Ok, looks like limp in mode is reached at these very cold conditions after starting. Could be a temp sensor at engine or transmission. We make lots of equipment that can help you out. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
Hello I have a 1996 Chevrolet k1500 4X4 with a 5.0 motor and a 4L60E transmission in it. I've been experiencing hard shifts especially gears 1-2. So, I got it diagnosed and codes P1860 and P1870 came up. Which is the Torque Converter Solenoid and the transmission is slipping. My first question is how much a solenoid/solenoid circuit costs and how hard are they to replace? Is it a job I could do in a day in the garage or does it need to be taken to a garage?Any recommendations would be great!
P0741 is an electrical code!
I'm getting the generic PO743, my transmission is sticking between gears causing a delayed shift and an rpm spike if I stay on the gas. Do you think this would be the TCC solenoid?
Did you ever figure this out have same issue same code
What do you mean DRAINS? If you have a leak and the fluid level is low then nothing's going to work right. Correct the drain.
I have a 2009 jeep liberty it seems like it won't go passed 40 then lose power. my check engine light came on. a code popped up p0740 torque coverter clutch soleniod. can I do that my self or should I let a shop do it?
You must change the solenoid.
Thanks Mandy, will Inform how it will go.
Regards
okay i have a little problem...i have a 1997 Chevrolet 1500..automatic....when i put it in reverse the gear doesnt engage at all...it does move forward but only makes 2 shifts...and it makes a ratlin noise...my dad says to change the torque converter sensor...and i think its the shift solenoids...i dont know what to do..help please
is the torque converter clutch solenoid located inside the transmission on a 2001 cadillac coupe deville
I have an 07 Tahoe 5.3 flex fuel. It was shuddering only at speeds around 43mph and up. It would only shudder if I cruised at the same speed, any speed over 43mph. I brought it to a shop and replaced the converter with a new billet converter, shift kit junior, aluminum piston kit, 1-2 accumulator aluminum piston and a new larger cool.
Now not only does it shudder at the same higher speeds but it also does it at lower speeds. Its noticeable around 20mph to 35mph where it sounds like metal is vibrating then it goes away.
I was told to replace the TCC valve with an on/off valve.
I was also told to find someone capable of using a scanner.
Can you give me any advise as to what the problem could be?
Thanks
992dr
Its a Chevy
Hey. I have a jeep 2002 grand cherokee limited V8 175k miles and I have my check engine lighg on and the cause of it is a code number p0740 TCC. When I turn my car on it SOMETIMES takes 2 or 3 seconds for the engine to turn on after i turned the car on. And when im driving the speed odameter arrow... does not go up smoothly... it sort of moves like a seconds hand clock. I would like to get some information on what needs to be fixed and especially price rangd.
You're asking lots of questions and I don't have much to go on. First, Jeeps dashboards are the master network controller. Often if the dash goes out, the transmission may not shift. The TCC will not make the engine not start or delay start. The odometer is the one that records the miles traveled; Do you mean the SPEEDOMETER? If so that's a tail tail dash module issue. THe dash and the module are one unit. Post back with more.
On my 99 yukon it will shift through all the gears perfect but after the rpms drop down after its in overdrive I sometimes get a pretty good jerk /clunk. This always happens around 40-50 mph. Can anyone help me out please?
i have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 v8 magnum sport, my check engine light went
on so i took it to autozone and the computer brought back a error reading or
something saying, "Replace Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid, and
the error codes read, P1740 TCM Internal Malfunction. what could this be?
Before i had my buddy replace the transmission fluid (no shavings but dark in
color) because i guess i accidentally put it in overdrive because the light was
on for that and the trans temp light was on too and it started smoking from
engine so he fixed it by replacing the trans fluid (very well done btw), i do
think it needs just a bit more trans fluid because it very minorly jerks but soon
after he did all that this happened. What could this error be that i got from
Autozone?
Thanks in advance :)
Sure
Absolutely NOT... TCC solenoid has nothing to do with your idle stability. TCC would have a minor influence of fuel efficiency, but with today's high fuel prices every little bit counts. Why would you think it's the TCC sol??? THanks for posting.
Great video. Kinda scary to think i may have to replace the converter. Cant afford that right now. I was told that there is a solenoid that may be bad. I have a 2008 GMC envoy. I had my motor replaced with one that had 46K on it. The car itself now has 165k on the tranny. I'm contemplating changing fluid filter and solenoid. And pray for the best.
I checked that the shudder would stop when I pressed the break and it did. Doesnt that take the torque converter out of lockup when you do that ? Does that mean that the TCC Solenoid is working? I cant find a manual for this truck and do not know where the TCC Solenoid is. What do I have to remove to get to it?
I added 3/4 Qt fluid and the shudder seems to have gone away. Could this have been my problem. I am planning to do a fluid and filter change . Why is the flush bad?
I have a 2000 chevy impala V6 and I took my car to AutoZone cause of the Service Engine Light and they gave me a code, P0741 which is the TCC Solenoid and P0751 which is the Transmission Control Solenoid. I have also notice delayed shifts between 1st and 2nd. Can I replace this solenoid myself in the driveway or does the entire transmission need to be dropped to replace it and is it recommended to replace the transmission? also can you please provide manufactured part number for the TCC.
10x