NOTE: I didn't mention setup blocks because they do not account for variations in material thickness. A 3/4" setup block only works with wood that is EXACTLY 3/4" thick. High Quality Whiteside Lock Miter Bits: amzn.to/3xWAssX When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Whiteside Router Bits: amzn.to/2WpIOY7 (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.) Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
Once you DO have it set up, get a piece of stock that's the same thickness as your "production" piece, cut into it with the bit, and save it. This becomes a template/guide for the height the next time you need to make this cut on that thickness of stock.
Despite the fact that there is NO SHORTAGE WHATSOEVER of dudes in my life who keep running up and shouting advice at me, I'm learning woodworking pretty much entirely by watching videos, reading, and doing. Of all the woodworking vids I watch, yours are my favorite. Thank you for calmly, simply, conversationally explaining things in as few words as possible without hollering, going off on tangents, flashing all over the place in quick, confused, confusing ways, or any of the other things that make it hard to learn from someone on video. You're doin God's work, friend (assuming God wants me to be able to build stuff without being hollered to/at by every man who knows me).
I bought the Freud miter lock bit and wish these companies would imprint the center of the bit on the big itself so there is no guesswork. It would make the $80 I spent on it worth the purchase. This is the best video I have seen on this topic.
This video showed the most common sense way to set up the lock mitre bit. Give it a go. Also, Nubs is right, other videos make the process way more complicated than it needs to be.
Die Höhen- u. Anschlageinstellung ist in diesem Video sehr gut erklärt. Ich denke jetz kann ich den Miter-Router-Bit endlich mal in Betrieb nehmen. Thank You
Oh you clever bugga, the idea of double taping another board to the piece you’re cutting is sheer genius and I’d never have thought that one up, so very clever. I can think of other applications for it too. Thanks James, that’s where brilliance mate, good onya from down under, tho, we’re really up over lol
James -- Excellent instruction. One more tip for those new to these bits: Mill ALL the stock (plus a little extra) you will be using in your project at the same time. Even slight differences in stock thickness will result in a joint that does not fit properly.
The shop I'm at we use them mainly for beams especially rustic beams but we do a relief cut on the table saw at around 30 degrees to take the stress off the cut.
I wish all videos would be like this on YT. Straight to the point, well demonstrated. I just have a hand router, but I'll figure out what to do based on this.
Sir. I know it's been 8 months. Please do not do this with a handheld router. There's no roller bearing guide to rest against the wood! A full cut with this wide router bit could jam against the wood and send the spinning router flying with no mercy at you or across the room. If you did this already, I hope you're still alive.
Thanks for your clear and thorough explanation on how to set up a lock-mitre bit. Setting these bits properly is an arduous task , but your method makes it quite easy. Your videos are my favorite!
I am a rookie when it comes to fine woodworking and got a lock-mitre bit in a set I just bought. I played with it a little. Your video really made it clear and easy to understand how to use it. Cheers!
Haven’t used my lock mitre but in a few years and was having difficulty setting up. Watched this and got it set in 1 min. Thx. Big fan of your videos, I even watch them when it’s not something I’m looking for or needing lol because they’re always so well presented.
Like you're clear sounding video. No echoes and no trying to talk over loud playing noise, so called music. I like making things out of wood for myself. Love watching your videos. Good job 👍
That tip about taping an extra piece to the board for edge cutting made total sense. Thanks! I was having a problem with that, as the board on edge was exiting the bit and then moving around or dropping, as there wasn't any support for the sharp edge.
Yes sir, the downside of using this type of bit it that it does remove some material off of the face it’s cutting. It’s a small amount but you loose the reference edge which lets the piece dive down resulting in a snipe at the end. Adding to the length of the board works to eliminate this as you simply cut the sniped piec off. Taping or hot gluing another reference edge works too.
This is a timely video as I had just purchased these router bits in both sizes. The package came, I opened it, then I shuffled the bits off to the side - intimidated by what I imagined to be a very daunting setup. Thank you for this to-the-point, clear explanation with good visuals.
Be sure to get quality bits. I bought two Chinese Cheapo bits on Amazon and it was a waste of money. The first had an odd size shank that wouldn't fit my collet and the second just tore the wood up no matter how careful I was.
This was an exceptionally clear concise video with straightforward instructions. It was to the point without unnecessary side comments. It is also great fun to see the shop of someone that likes hand planes as much as I do. See you like Veritas planes too.
I like your presentation very much. Infinity makes a lock mitre master jig which is a small magnetic device which shows the centre for both vertical and horizontal. I have used it for about a year and found that it makes alignment correct the first time almost every time. It is what your video shows but without the centerline guess work. Thank you for all the help you have given me in the past. This is not a set up block, but rather an aluminium piece held on to the bit by magnetism, which extends the center lines for easier alignment.
Thank you, Mr. Hamilton. This is one of the clearest explanations for how to set up a locking miter bit that I have seen or read. I have a locking miter bit, I needed one to make a hollow square beam, and even with the manufacturer's directions, which basically said buy our setup tab, I couldn't figure out. After a lot of fiddling and a number of test cuts I got it as close to right as I thought I could get it and made the cuts. They weren't exact, but I was able to hide the small error by rounding off the corners.
Love your tips and advice. I just got a set of locking miter router bits. They work great if you're following the grain. But not so well when you need to cut endgrain. How can this be done better?
So I noticed you made the horizontal and vertical cuts on the same piece of material and then rip to width, very nice I hadn’t considered doing that but sure make sense especially on narrower material you should point that out
So simple and the best instructions I have seen anywhere. So close on my first try I didn’t even adjust it since the fine corner will get sanded round.
Love hearing about family run brands to support, so often we rush to get the best bang for the buck not thinking of the cost this line of reasoning has.
Thanks James. I bought a small one a while back but have yet to put it to use. Part of my reluctance stems from several safety warnings about the 1/4" shank ones failing under load, the other part was trying to decipher what I could find on line about the product. As usual, you completely demystify the process. Will be buying a 1/2" shank one soon, the corner joint quality is very attractive to me.
Thank you, I had a cheap set and followed your directions. They worked just fine and the ends looked super. Now to get a better lock miter bit! The cheap ones were ok but the joints were not very snug on the inside edges. (No more cheap bits!) These were on 1/2" box sides. No setup blocks needed with your method!
Hey Stumpy, I've owned a lock miter bit for probably over years. It's still unused and in the plastic box that it came in! As you mentioned, was afraid of using it. The massive size is intimidating and I wasn't sure of how to use it and I didn't have a decent router table. I recently bought a Kreg router table and now that I've seen this video I'm eager to try out your method of setting up the bit. Thanks man! Love your videos!!
Had several moments with this cutter when I've not known whether to go up, down or sideways! Just be sure you have a mile of test pieces. But this tutorial helps - a little.
I see you're using the Sawstop lift. I'm in the process of finding a nice router table, lift, fence, and the router itself. Would you please tell me what you are using for these? Thanks, your help is very much appreciated.
I bought one of those bits and some nylon set-up blocks a number of years ago but have never tried using them. Had great plans but never got back to them.
Thank you for the video! I am always reluctant to use my lock miter bit because of set up time but when I finally get the setup right, it is a great joint. Now that I know a more streamlined way of setup, it will get more use!
James, I value your vids. I try to catch all of them, even on an aspect that I do not currently engage in. You teach ways of thinking, which is always beneficial. And, who knows, the need for the specific skill or information may arise, and I will have some familiarity and know a source for greater knowledge. Keep on keepin' on. ps- I have bought several recommended products, especially safety oriented ones.
I never thought of doing both ends of the test piece and then cutting them apart to check the joint, I've just been using two test pieces. Thanks for that tip!
They sell those little guide templates make it pretty easy to set up although there for a specific size stock. The hard part is standing the piece up on end. if I wanted to do the corners of a draw with a lock miter that’s a dangerous cut. you need to check to hold that piece of stock really tight. I’d love to see you do a lock miter on an end cut
Thank you James. I want to us some wenge to make a box. I like miter joints with splines, but in this case i just want to see wenge all around. However wenge is very oily and i suspect that it won't glue up very well. What to do? Then i remembered your vid. Well, i'm off to another technique. (Note to all: i've seen lots of vids on wenge dust being toxic and recommending a respirator. Splinters are bad too - very bad.)
Thank you sir! Excellent, well explained, detailed explanation of how to set up these bits. I'm using these bits for the first time and am going crazy with "trial and error" to get the fit right. Your intelligent explanation has set me straight. FYI, for this type of bit, good idea recommending Whiteside or other top-of-the-line. I got a cheap set of multi sizes and it makes a mess with hardwood.
Can confirm, whiteside bits ARE awesome. If you are someone who just got a router and started out with one of those lower priced ($40-$75+) variety sets, I highly suggest replacing the ones you actually use with Whiteside bits one at a time. You probably won't find that you use a lot of them if you are a hobbyist, so you don't need to go replace them all at once. But as you use some of them more and more, spend the extra bit - no pun intended, well, some intention - to get a Whiteside replacement. I was doing a lot of box joints with my cheapo 1/4 straight bit, and I finally upgraded to a spiral upcut bit (RU-4700 iirc), and it was a night and day difference.
Great video, much easier than some of the other methods I have seen. One thing I do need help on though is how to avoid chip out on plywood end grain when routing the vertical cut, if you have a tip, be great to see..
Well done presentation. I got acceptable test results on the 3rd try using MDF scraps. If I were making columns where the routing is done in the long grain direction, I would be ready to go. Personally I am more interested in building drawer boxes which will require end grain routing, at least with real wood. I think holding the drawer side stock for end grain routing will be more difficult than the setup process.
What I do is I take a large blank and make the cut for the drawer ends, then I cut the blank down to the height of the drawer sides. I find its a little easier to work with a larger piece.
I have to use this joint with plywood panels that are too large for a router table. Can you demonstrate how to set up a hand held router to do this? Tia
I’m about as “amateur” as an amateur woodworker can be, and I’ve used the smaller Whiteside locking bit a few times in over the years. I have to agree, it isn’t difficult to get setup and works consistently time and again.
Just curious: Why not do the ruler trick _first,_ right after eyeballing the height and fence, before cutting any test pieces? It seems to me this would be a good way to dial it in much more exactly initially and reduce the number of test cuts and tweaks you need to do to actually get it right (possibly only requiring one test cut to confirm it is, in fact, correct).
Excellent info on set-up of lock miter router bit. Oh, that's a mighty fine looking router table you are using! How about a little 'show & tell' on that...& previous router table?👨🔧 Thanks!
![[UNCUT]"ทนายตั้ม" แฉยับ! ความลับสวรรค์ ใครคือ "บิ๊กเทวดา" ของบอสพอล l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 15 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ru9fpSaUwdA/mqdefault.jpg)
NOTE: I didn't mention setup blocks because they do not account for variations in material thickness. A 3/4" setup block only works with wood that is EXACTLY 3/4" thick.
High Quality Whiteside Lock Miter Bits: amzn.to/3xWAssX
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Whiteside Router Bits: amzn.to/2WpIOY7
(We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
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@@keithmarlowe5569 there is that’s what I’m searching for now’ I saw a few videos last time I looked so I’m searching for them now 😂
Once you DO have it set up, get a piece of stock that's the same thickness as your "production" piece, cut into it with the bit, and save it. This becomes a template/guide for the height the next time you need to make this cut on that thickness of stock.
Despite the fact that there is NO SHORTAGE WHATSOEVER of dudes in my life who keep running up and shouting advice at me, I'm learning woodworking pretty much entirely by watching videos, reading, and doing. Of all the woodworking vids I watch, yours are my favorite. Thank you for calmly, simply, conversationally explaining things in as few words as possible without hollering, going off on tangents, flashing all over the place in quick, confused, confusing ways, or any of the other things that make it hard to learn from someone on video. You're doin God's work, friend (assuming God wants me to be able to build stuff without being hollered to/at by every man who knows me).
I bought the Freud miter lock bit and wish these companies would imprint the center of the bit on the big itself so there is no guesswork. It would make the $80 I spent on it worth the purchase. This is the best video I have seen on this topic.
This video showed the most common sense way to set up the lock mitre bit. Give it a go. Also, Nubs is right, other videos make the process way more complicated than it needs to be.
Die Höhen- u. Anschlageinstellung ist in diesem Video sehr gut erklärt.
Ich denke jetz kann ich den Miter-Router-Bit endlich mal in Betrieb nehmen. Thank You
Oh you clever bugga, the idea of double taping another board to the piece you’re cutting is sheer genius and I’d never have thought that one up, so very clever. I can think of other applications for it too. Thanks James, that’s where brilliance mate, good onya from down under, tho, we’re really up over lol
Wow. Followed your method and got a perfect fit the first time. No idea what will happen the second time. Thanks from a 73-year old beginner.
James -- Excellent instruction. One more tip for those new to these bits: Mill ALL the stock (plus a little extra) you will be using in your project at the same time. Even slight differences in stock thickness will result in a joint that does not fit properly.
Goes without saying that you should also mill your scrap lumber test pieces at the same time as your project workpieces.
Great tip. Use the MicroJig lock miter bit because it has a ledge that is exactly at the half way point of the bit. Thank you!
The shop I'm at we use them mainly for beams especially rustic beams but we do a relief cut on the table saw at around 30 degrees to take the stress off the cut.
I wish all videos would be like this on YT. Straight to the point, well demonstrated.
I just have a hand router, but I'll figure out what to do based on this.
Sir. I know it's been 8 months. Please do not do this with a handheld router. There's no roller bearing guide to rest against the wood! A full cut with this wide router bit could jam against the wood and send the spinning router flying with no mercy at you or across the room. If you did this already, I hope you're still alive.
Great vid. Recently bought a lock miter bit and was about to attempt my first use. This takes my worry out of the equation. Thank you
Thanks for your clear and thorough explanation on how to set up a lock-mitre bit. Setting these bits properly is an arduous task , but your method makes it quite easy. Your videos are my favorite!
I am a rookie when it comes to fine woodworking and got a lock-mitre bit in a set I just bought. I played with it a little. Your video really made it clear and easy to understand how to use it. Cheers!
You are a phenomenal teacher and I appreciate your time in creating this resource. Thank you 🙏🏼
Haven’t used my lock mitre but in a few years and was having difficulty setting up. Watched this and got it set in 1 min. Thx. Big fan of your videos, I even watch them when it’s not something I’m looking for or needing lol because they’re always so well presented.
Thanks for yet another clear and thorough explanation. Everyone else makes things so complicated that you make so clear.
One of my favourite woodworking channels, clear concise and really helpful advice. Thank you
Thank you for demystifying this exceptionally mysterious subject !
I had never even heard of this but till just now. Not only do I want one but I believe I can use this bit flawlessly now!
Like you're clear sounding video. No echoes and no trying to talk over loud playing noise, so called music. I like making things out of wood for myself. Love watching your videos. Good job 👍
Great video. Made my first box using the lock miter and it was dead on. Easy to follow instructions.
What a Saturday morning.... sippin coffee and watchin Stumpy Nubs!
P.S. I’ve used Whiteside for years. Top quality and Made in USA!
That tip about taping an extra piece to the board for edge cutting made total sense. Thanks! I was having a problem with that, as the board on edge was exiting the bit and then moving around or dropping, as there wasn't any support for the sharp edge.
Yes sir, the downside of using this type of bit it that it does remove some material off of the face it’s cutting. It’s a small amount but you loose the reference edge which lets the piece dive down resulting in a snipe at the end. Adding to the length of the board works to eliminate this as you simply cut the sniped piec off. Taping or hot gluing another reference edge works too.
This is a timely video as I had just purchased these router bits in both sizes. The package came, I opened it, then I shuffled the bits off to the side - intimidated by what I imagined to be a very daunting setup.
Thank you for this to-the-point, clear explanation with good visuals.
I just received my bits and they came with NO instructions or anything. This video will be very helpful. Thank you!
Excellent video. Now I can adjust the bit with incredible simplicity.
Thank you for the information.
Thanks Stumpy. This is the simplest way to set up the bit I’ve seen.
Great video on how to set these bits properly
Brilliant James! That is definitely the “least fussy” setup I’ve seen so I think I will finally invest in a pair of bits.
Be sure to get quality bits. I bought two Chinese Cheapo bits on Amazon and it was a waste of money. The first had an odd size shank that wouldn't fit my collet and the second just tore the wood up no matter how careful I was.
You are always my go to guy when it comes to information and projects.
This was an exceptionally clear concise video with straightforward instructions. It was to the point without unnecessary side comments. It is also great fun to see the shop of someone that likes hand planes as much as I do. See you like Veritas planes too.
I like your presentation very much. Infinity makes a lock mitre master jig which is a small magnetic device which shows the centre for both vertical and horizontal. I have used it for about a year and found that it makes alignment correct the first time almost every time. It is what your video shows but without the centerline guess work. Thank you for all the help you have given me in the past. This is not a set up block, but rather an aluminium piece held on to the bit by magnetism, which extends the center lines for easier alignment.
Thank you, Mr. Hamilton. This is one of the clearest explanations for how to set up a locking miter bit that I have seen or read. I have a locking miter bit, I needed one to make a hollow square beam, and even with the manufacturer's directions, which basically said buy our setup tab, I couldn't figure out. After a lot of fiddling and a number of test cuts I got it as close to right as I thought I could get it and made the cuts. They weren't exact, but I was able to hide the small error by rounding off the corners.
Love your tips and advice. I just got a set of locking miter router bits. They work great if you're following the grain. But not so well when you need to cut endgrain. How can this be done better?
So I noticed you made the horizontal and vertical cuts on the same piece of material and then rip to width, very nice I hadn’t considered doing that but sure make sense especially on narrower material you should point that out
So simple and the best instructions I have seen anywhere. So close on my first try I didn’t even adjust it since the fine corner will get sanded round.
Thanks for simplifying the bit placement
Just bought one of these and was pulling my hair out trying to do this. This video will definitely help me to do this correctly. Thank you.
Although I’m familiar with another set up process I like yours better. Great tips James. Thanks for your work on making this video.
I never even knew these were a thing! Very cool!
Just made my first miter lock joint. Thank you for the straightforward video! Subscribed.
Love hearing about family run brands to support, so often we rush to get the best bang for the buck not thinking of the cost this line of reasoning has.
Perfectly answered all of my questions. Thank you.
Thanks James. I bought a small one a while back but have yet to put it to use. Part of my reluctance stems from several safety warnings about the 1/4" shank ones failing under load, the other part was trying to decipher what I could find on line about the product. As usual, you completely demystify the process. Will be buying a 1/2" shank one soon, the corner joint quality is very attractive to me.
Thank you, I had a cheap set and followed your directions. They worked just fine and the ends looked super. Now to get a better lock miter bit! The cheap ones were ok but the joints were not very snug on the inside edges. (No more cheap bits!) These were on 1/2" box sides. No setup blocks needed with your method!
Hey Stumpy, I've owned a lock miter bit for probably over years. It's still unused and in the plastic box that it came in! As you mentioned, was afraid of using it. The massive size is intimidating and I wasn't sure of how to use it and I didn't have a decent router table. I recently bought a Kreg router table and now that I've seen this video I'm eager to try out your method of setting up the bit. Thanks man! Love your videos!!
Thanks James. This is going to make setting these bits up a lot easier for me.
Best explanation i have ever seen. Thanks
Perfect timing. I'm about to start my first project using lock miters. Thanks!!
Thanks for sharing the info in language that’s so easily understood.
Had several moments with this cutter when I've not known whether to go up, down or sideways! Just be sure you have a mile of test pieces. But this tutorial helps - a little.
I was just thinking about getting some of these, perfect timing!
I see you're using the Sawstop lift. I'm in the process of finding a nice router table, lift, fence, and the router itself. Would you please tell me what you are using for these? Thanks, your help is very much appreciated.
I bought one of those bits and some nylon set-up blocks a number of years ago but have never tried using them. Had great plans but never got back to them.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I gave up on the lock miter bit years ago. Had so much trouble with them. Maybe I should try again
I have one of these cutters and have never used it because I have been unsuccessful setting up. I will try again. Thanks
Thank you for the video! I am always reluctant to use my lock miter bit because of set up time but when I finally get the setup right, it is a great joint. Now that I know a more streamlined way of setup, it will get more use!
James, I value your vids. I try to catch all of them, even on an aspect that I do not currently engage in. You teach ways of thinking, which is always beneficial. And, who knows, the need for the specific skill or information may arise, and I will have some familiarity and know a source for greater knowledge. Keep on keepin' on.
ps- I have bought several recommended products, especially safety oriented ones.
Solid video, no fluff..excellent work
I never thought of doing both ends of the test piece and then cutting them apart to check the joint, I've just been using two test pieces. Thanks for that tip!
Right? How many pieces of new knowledge can you shove into a quickie video?
Stumpy Nubs: hold my kooshie'd can
@@chrisjacobs7434: That sounds like something I, Really, don't want to do. 😲😳
They sell those little guide templates make it pretty easy to set up although there for a specific size stock. The hard part is standing the piece up on end. if I wanted to do the corners of a draw with a lock miter that’s a dangerous cut. you need to check to hold that piece of stock really tight. I’d love to see you do a lock miter on an end cut
Great instruction on such a misunderstood bit James. Thank you!
Thank you James. I want to us some wenge to make a box. I like miter joints with splines, but in this case i just want to see wenge all around. However wenge is very oily and i suspect that it won't glue up very well. What to do? Then i remembered your vid. Well, i'm off to another technique. (Note to all: i've seen lots of vids on wenge dust being toxic and recommending a respirator. Splinters are bad too - very bad.)
Beautifully simple explanation!
Very helpful!! I had given up on using this bit. I’m will be trying this technique soon.
It’s like you know what I’m working on and struggling with! Thanks so much!
I love your workshop I’m thinking of getting one of those router tables
Very useful information. Thank you.
Thank you James, this is very very helpful
You feeling ok? I hope so. Love your work. Stay strong.
My voice sounds a little raspy whenever we film early in the morning :)
I agree set up blocks are a waste of money. I love lock miters and always use up a lot of scrap setting them up. This makes it so much easier. Thanks.
Nice, I've been on the fence with getting those bits for a couple of years.
Great tip. Thanks for this, James.
Fantastic 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 what does speed limit do you recommend? I am working with Bosch Gof 1600
The range is between 10 000 and 25 000
Thank you
*AWESOME Tutorial Stump!*
Thank you sir! Excellent, well explained, detailed explanation of how to set up these bits. I'm using these bits for the first time and am going crazy with "trial and error" to get the fit right. Your intelligent explanation has set me straight. FYI, for this type of bit, good idea recommending Whiteside or other top-of-the-line. I got a cheap set of multi sizes and it makes a mess with hardwood.
Can confirm, whiteside bits ARE awesome. If you are someone who just got a router and started out with one of those lower priced ($40-$75+) variety sets, I highly suggest replacing the ones you actually use with Whiteside bits one at a time. You probably won't find that you use a lot of them if you are a hobbyist, so you don't need to go replace them all at once. But as you use some of them more and more, spend the extra bit - no pun intended, well, some intention - to get a Whiteside replacement. I was doing a lot of box joints with my cheapo 1/4 straight bit, and I finally upgraded to a spiral upcut bit (RU-4700 iirc), and it was a night and day difference.
Thanks for sharing with James! Great information. 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
Good job I don’t have a bit yet but. I want to get one thanks for the update
Great timing, I am about to order my lock miter bit
Great video, much easier than some of the other methods I have seen. One thing I do need help on though is how to avoid chip out on plywood end grain when routing the vertical cut, if you have a tip, be great to see..
You have to make a zero-clearance fence face. It's a little tricky to plunge the bit into it, but we may make a video about it sometime.
Well done presentation. I got acceptable test results on the 3rd try using MDF scraps. If I were making columns where the routing is done in the long grain direction, I would be ready to go. Personally I am more interested in building drawer boxes which will require end grain routing, at least with real wood. I think holding the drawer side stock for end grain routing will be more difficult than the setup process.
What I do is I take a large blank and make the cut for the drawer ends, then I cut the blank down to the height of the drawer sides. I find its a little easier to work with a larger piece.
Perfect example of referencing off your material. So much easier than spending time at a calculator pretending you're ready to teach algebra or trig.
Hello is there a bit for 6mm mdf or not? Thank you, nice video.👍👍👍
Very useful tip. Also Bill Hylton in his " woodworking with the router " book gives a good method for adjusting this tricky bit;
Excellent video!
Thanks for explaining and the demo
Great video and your right I'm scared to try this but feel like I can now. New follower.
Love your tips with router
I have to use this joint with plywood panels that are too large for a router table. Can you demonstrate how to set up a hand held router to do this? Tia
When you cut the test pieces and there is a gap on the face, which way do you adjust the bit height? Up or down🤔. Thank yooo!😁
Thank you for the tutorial
I’m about as “amateur” as an amateur woodworker can be, and I’ve used the smaller Whiteside locking bit a few times in over the years.
I have to agree, it isn’t difficult to get setup and works consistently time and again.
Just curious: Why not do the ruler trick _first,_ right after eyeballing the height and fence, before cutting any test pieces? It seems to me this would be a good way to dial it in much more exactly initially and reduce the number of test cuts and tweaks you need to do to actually get it right (possibly only requiring one test cut to confirm it is, in fact, correct).
Excellent info on set-up of lock miter router bit. Oh, that's a mighty fine looking router table you are using! How about a little 'show & tell' on that...& previous router table?👨🔧 Thanks!
I'm about to use this freehand. Any suggestions?
Wow. I just got one of these and was planning on setting it up today. Amazing timing on the video!