HOW TO Use a Drawer Routerbit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2020
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I've got this drawer joinery bit from ENT. It didn't come with any instructions on how to use it. There are some instructions on their website that are wrong...and also if they're right, they don't provide enough information. So I decided to make a tutorial video about how to use it and how to size your pieces to achieve specific dimensions.
Link to the router bit: amzn.to/3LJQU6E
Enjoy the video! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I emailed ENT about the incorrect instructions. I would' have also asked for a few router bits to give away. Unfortunately, they didn't reply. Interestingly there's a video linked in their instructions and there the bit height is also set to 10mm.
Quite sad for such a company
Excellent presentation... This is very useful information...
If you look at their web site you do not find an address for their manufacturing site, only admin and logistics etc. If they do not manufacture the design of their products might be out of their control and could therefore change without notice.........
You are not let’s bastel who has already invited the CEO of ENT :D and hopefully you don‘t have any plans to change your much better style. Maybe it will take a while until ENT recognize that your videos are much better.
In general the setup of such Special Bits are difficulty. The same with the „verleimfräser“ to join to pieces of wood with a screwed surface.
Thanks for the right solution video and the simple formulars.
If they do get in touch, give you some 'bits', I would love to have one to experiment with.
Great book for a beginner . th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ this book really starts from the beginning, as in it explains what basic tools are and how to use them. But when it gets to the art of creating joints and how and when to use them this book really starts to teach you something. At least that was my experience.
The managing editor of "Wood Working Guild Of America" (WWGOA) made a video in 2018, telling us how we need to make many cuts and router adjustments to get the correct setup!
And he is not the only one with many years of woodworking experience who have made similar videos with the same "there is no other way than test cut over and over again until you happen to find the correct setting (- and have a stack of sandpaper ready)" way to use this great lock system bit.
Well done, Marius, you both came up with the formel and shared it with us! (Y)
You and Matthias Wandel's are a lot alike in the way you approach woodworking, with a lot more science and logic, and eagerness to find new solutions, than most of your "colleagues" here on YT.
It's always a pleasure to watch the process as well as the outcome (Y)
PS: If you haven't seen his DIY Pantorouter, I really recommend it! :-)
Alles gute aus Dãnemark (y)
Thank you, Marius, for this video explanation for the use of this bit. I have stayed away from using it because I was warned it was difficult to set up. This really helped me understand it.
Thanks for sharing. Felix
Thank you Marius. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I really appreciate your presentation in Sketchup. That helped me understand how the bit height and fence position affect the joint much better than watching someone say “See this? I have to lower the bit height…”
You also demonstrated that while having overhanging edges on the front is possible, it isn’t practical. At least that’s what I saw.
Thank you for the math / geometry lesson. Seems like a lot of work for one box, but a real time saver if your making many. Think I need to start working in metric, fractional inches complicate the whole process unnecessarily.
Careful, when you get the hang of it you can't go back. Worst case you end up moving to another country. 😉
There's always the decimal inch. No one forces anyone to use fractions. I only use fractions when I benefit from it. If I am doing close work I am going to work to the thousandth of an inch. Which is 0.0254 mm. Six of one is a half a dozen of the other. Unless you're a baker.
Muru Roa , moving is an option. Did it move you?
Paul Frederick , agreed I could go decimal inch, but then there is still the base 12 for feet and beyond. If I make a change, would rather go all in for in integrated unit of measure.
@@MrMNRichardWright Actually I did. Been living the metric dream in Holland for the last 5 years now. 😉
I recently purchased a drawer router bit similar to the one in this video I am very happy that this video was made. Thank you!!!!!! From Montana
Thanks Marius, very timely as I'm about to build some drawers and plan to use my drawer bit. I'll have to watch this a couple more times and build a spreadsheet.
Glad you started back on videos :) I learn a few new tips and get a bit of a laugh at the same time :) nice work
Hi Marius I see several times the videos and follow every recommendation to a perfect joint on in my drawers!!
Thanks you for the great explanation cheers from Argentina
Hello Marius,
I've been making TH-cam videos for several years. But only recently have videos about woodworking!
One of my first: The drawer gluing cutter from ENT. I bought one and had problems with the setting. Unfortunately, there were few solutions among German-speaking TH-camrs.
After I posted the video online a few days ago, I received a reference to your video!!!😍
The surprise was great... given such a spatial and temporal distance... still the same solutions and ideas!
I would like to add your great video as a link to mine, if that's ok with you? I think your channel should definitely become better known in German-speaking countries!
Kind regards from a pensioner in Odenbach, Germany🙂
P.S.: The first thing I did was of course subscribe to your channel!👍
I'm glad I could help. Feel free to share the video in your's
If you're not worried about visible dowels, you could always dowel the sides after glue-up to really strengthen the joint. And like someone else mentioned, a ply bottom would essentially eliminate that failure mode anyway. Awesome video!
Nice video Marius! Well explained and really good camera angles/lighting/editing. Thumbs up!
Hi,
Thank you very much for this tutorial.
I bought this, but did not use it jet.
Now I know how.
Keep it safe.
Willy from Belgium.
😷😷😷
BRAVO Marius, well-done video. Impressive, your mathematics and skill with the stretch program are very interesting. Not to discount the importance of what you have just shown us in this video I was watching and never set up my bits with mathematics as you have just demonstrated so skillfully. I have for many years used lock miter bits for many, many jobs I have performed over the years and I have found in all of this type of bit or shaper cutters there are only two very important measurements. the height and thickness of the objective cut in question. often times it is the actual size of the material. when this concept is clearly understood one can easily rais the cutter to the needed height and then cutting through the safety face board arrive at the targeted depth of cut. All in all, I very much so enjoyed your video.
Excellent video. I think once you put these calculations into a spreadsheet, it would be very quick to create a cut list for any size drawer.
Brilliant video. It explains setting up very clearly and precisely. Thank you very much.
Nice to see you back with another great instructional video.
Great video! Excellent discussion on how to setup this bit. Thanks for posting
Great video, thanks for sharing. Given the fact the draw would have a base, this joint seems to well strong enough for any draw.
These are the kind of instructions I like. Thank you.
Thanks for giving us the correct instructions!
With some ply on the base of the drawer that failure mode would be eliminated, I'd reckon. It'd be interesting to see how the joint would fail when you load a drawer up with a load of junk, I'd reckon it'd be plenty strong.
Awesome video Marius! I was looking into one of these for a while... You make me pull the trigger! :D
👍🏻
I have this bit and have not used because of the lack of competent instructions. I will give it a go. Thanks
Holy math Batman that is alot of setup but once done and figured out makes setup for the future projects. You could setup a spreadsheet with the formulas you use and have it done all for you faster.
Great video and great explanation, thanks.
I'm definitely thinking like a proper constructor now. When Marius was explaining how the calculations work, it immediately occurred to me you could use the second mode to make a single-piece drawer front. If you were to want a permanently captive drawer, you could also do it on the back (and then build the cabinet around the drawers to capture them).
If you were building something like a component/fastener/hardware cabinet, this would be ideal as such drawers don't need to support heavy things and you usually need to make them in quantity. This would make turning out a few dozen small drawers a LOT faster than most other joinery methods.
I would rather overcut it slightly, so you have a little overhang on the end side.
That way you can easily remove and make it flush with a router bit.
Nice video again!
Lots of numbers but stil worth to watch. Nice job Marius
As usual. Great video brilliantly explained. Thank you
Thanks for the video. I enjoy watching your videos. Creative success and health to you.
great video....thanks for the great design experience you shared. Which version of solid works you use?
Really enjoyed this especially the testing
I used a similar miter lock bit to make boxes - all eight edges were cut with the bit. The interlocking of the pieces was such that I had to assemble/glue all six sides at once. Your bit would allow for two steps, which would be much easier.
Another thing to be careful of when using either bit style is that water based glue causes wood to expand. When the joints are long (>300mm, 12") you need to spread the glue and assemble quickly or the joint surfaces swell before you finish and may not fit properly. It's really bad with MDF.
Brilliant video, Marius. Thank you!
Im really enjoy your video... Its awesome your explanantion its very clearly ..
For such a complex setup I wouldn't be inclined to use that router bit honestly and then to get such test result as you displayed to us on the stress test, I'm not seeing how this would be of any use to cabinetry joiners and makers. Thanks for the information though. I always enjoy watching your videos ever since you were making them in German.
Thank you for taking the time to produce this video. I have been wanting to pick up one of those bits and you just saved me hours of experimenting :) Do you feel that reinforcing the joint with a dowel would mitigate any of the weaknesses, or would that just be overkill in your opinion?
I don't think it's worth the extra time.
I'm curious but confident all the drawers I made out of 1/2" baltic birch for clients over the years are still working just fine and I just did a simple rabbit joint and pinned from the front. Todays glue is amazing and when you use mechanical slides I just don't think there is much force on the joints. The expense of making box joints or dovetails on kitchen drawers Is high and honestly how often do you open a drawer and admire the dovetails... once, when the manufacture points them out after installing the kitchen.
But lovely details make the difference from a craftmansship master to a capatalistic user.
Glue in the end is not more than plastic and basicly turns ur wood into problematic waste.
Depends on ur working-philosophy.
Sehr interessante Fräser. Die stehen auch noch auf meiner Wunschliste 😊👍🏻
Great details very well explained been following your videos and all great detailed information on your channel. What's the name of that router bit and where did ya buy it? Think dove tail jig will go if I get this
Awesome stuff Marius! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Superb explanation.
Marius, could you make some screen shots of the cad drawing withe the dimensions showing the relationship of the bit to the stock.
In the video it was difficult to see the numbers. And post them in the description so we could down load them. Just a suggestion that I am sure many would appreciate. This is the best explanation of how to set up this bit I have seen. Thank you.😁🛫
You can stop the video and make them yor self. :-) I just did. I then also changed his dimension to my dimensions using Ifranview SW.
Wie immer Top Marius👍
Mach weiter so
What do you think about box joints for drawers vs dovetail joints?
Bom teste, obrigado pelo seu trabalho. 🇧🇷
Nice demo, Marius~! Definitely looks like a quick method to batch out drawers, but yes, box joints or dovetails would be much stronger. Dependent on what you need, of course.
Love the outtakes. Looks like you also suffer from what I call "vocal dyslexia". I do that all the time~! :-)
Can you still router in a dado for the drawer bottoms with this joint? Do you do before or after you make the lock joint? Thanks
Thanks man this drawer bit is the perfect solution to a problem I have been having I re finish and re purpose alot of old furniture that the drawers have been misused the dove tails are broken someone has tried a bad repair on it ,, now I can simply rabbit out bad ends glue up new piece leaving the drawer front alone use your new router bit idea !! Perfect solution to my problem,s a grand idea thanks could you please leave a link were I mite find one
I'd only have a link for Germany, which probably won't help you much
Sounds like a bad bit company if they can’t even get their own math right. Then they don’t respond. This is a perfect video of what NOT to buy. Thanks! I will avoid this like COVID-19! lol
Best video... greetings from Pakistan.
Love the outakes, very funny(humoures)
Thx man for information and i got attracted to the way you write number 1 like number 7 if you were not tolking i wouldn't know you meant number 1 😂
That's why we write a 7 with a horizontal line in the middle!
Very helpful. Thanks.
Great video! Loove the fact that you did not shy away from what people seem to call math (calculating is mechanical, math isn't). But I have to say, this: length and width end with -th, height ends with a -t, so you pronounce it HAYT with a TEEEEE! I know you are not a native, and neither am I. I have heard native Anglophones make this mistake, and it makes me cringe every time.
That being said, keep up the good work!
I'm using this platform to ask a question: I watched your video on the Scissor lift a couple of years ago. I would now like to make one now, so I was hoping that you might have released plans for yours. I see a lot of plans on the internet but they don't go as high as yours. If you do sell the plans I would really be interested. I have also copied this request on the original lift video. Thank you.
Teacher: "What do you want to do when you grow up?"
Kid: "Dunno... defenitely nothing where I'll need maths... maybe woodworking..."
Marius: 🤔 "Hold my beer..."
🤭😅
So super nice work
Excellent video Marius. This bit has been around for some time now along with the Lock Miter bit. They both have some of the same characteristics in set-up. However, even though I have used both of the said bits for many years now I have stopped using them in drawer construction for the reason I have been complaining about for years now of having mortise and tenon joint so tight that they must be hammered into place THUS "Where is the Gule going to go?" That's Right Pushed right out of the joint itself where it is supposed to be to keep things in place. Look at your joint it is wood to wood there is no place for Glue. And are you totally agreeable with a .003mm film of glue in the joint? Do you really think that that thin film is a sufficient amount of glue to do the job it is intended for? I think these bits are really good inventions but should be pinned with gun nails or brad pins because there is no good space for any decent amount of glue to do its intended job of bonding the two surfaces together as one piece. No, dovetails or box joints for me in drawer construction now and forever. These bits are used with gun nails no glue is needed because there is no place for the glue in this tight joint. I know it still works and has been used for many years now but I'm not talking as a customer buying home depot kitchen cabinets but as a knowledgeable woodworker of good cabinetry construction not just how to make something and sell it and hope it holds together for a while.
That is a good thing to think about. The glue line thicknesses for wood joints are generally from 0.13-0.18 mm (0.005-0.007 in.) thick for glued assemblies. That is optimal according to my searches. I wouldn't think these joints are tighter than that... If they test fit that tight, can't we adjust and leave a little room? I suppose its also a bit of a factor of how much clamping pressure you use and how it affects this joint. Since there is a ramp in this joint. that area would take most of the pressure first and it may be thinner than ideal, but I think there is a fair bit of glue surface. and the joint itself is designed to resist twist and be self aligning, which is pretty nice. the bottom should account for the kind of forces he used in this video to break the joint.
Nice! Unfortunately I can't find the router bit anywhere. Care to share the article no. or a product link?
Having seen the failure mode, wouldn't a simple rabbet or rebate joint work just as well? Also I've seen it pointed out on youtube that dovetails are the joint of choice for drawer front and backs as they're intended to resist the pulling forces on the draw. Thanks for the video.
Yes, would also do the job. Dovetails are ideal, but they take some time to make
The dove tails are the ideal joinery system if you have and Incra Joinery System, quick easy and dependable. But not everyone has the Incra System. I have both and believe me the Incra is easier to set up than this bit.
Давно пользуюсь этой ящечной фрезой, соединение прочное.
I think that their instructions account for some sanding to make the joints flush. You wouldn't do that on veneered plywood, but if you were using solid wood you probably would. Either way, this video is just superb.
You could always add a couple of splines at 45 degrees to increase the strength.
All draws only experience stress in 2 direction, push or pull and not from the side or diagonally.
If you always orientate the draw so that the longer 2 sides are the front and back, the shorter sides literally hook into the front and back giving more than enough strength against the push pull stress.
I have this cutter gathering dust in a draw because it had no instructions of how to set it up and I got frustrated trying to work it out
This joint should give years of service if done correctly. Thanks for showing us how to.
As an edit ENT is something different in England so I couldn't look up there website
Could you use your correct fitting test piece as a gauge going forward to set the bit height in future?
That should work
Because Marius is an incredible genius, using math comes natural. Sadly, MOST woodworkers (and many others); could never use math, let alone understand it. So most woodworkers are going to use "trial and error" until they get it right.
If I was younger (I am 88 now), I would use the mathematical system as Marius so eloquently demonstrated. But sadly, I am just too dadgum old to learn the math, even though I was a math "nurd" in school.
On well.
My sincere respect!
Very interesting)) I assumed that in Germany they use the NX Siemens program more often)
Hallo Marius,
ich nehme an, du nutzt den ENT 16270.
Für diesen Fräser muss die Höhe genau 9,79 mm sein. Der Teil vom Ende bis zur Schrägen ist 3.97 mm. Die Schräge hat einen Winkel von 30 bzw. 90 Grad. Die Höhe des schrägen Schneidenteils ist 1.85 mm.
Diese Angaben hat ENT mir zur Verfügung gestellt. Ich habe es auch ausprobiert. Ich nutze, wie du eine digitale Lehre und stelle damit auf 9,80 mm ein. Dann passt es perfekt.
personally I have the chinese version of this type of router bit .. the setup is also a crazy thing .. it's helps for making joint ... but you always need to make some tests before making the real cuts ..
also I think that it is necessary to slightly reduce the wood before attacking it with the bit .. it is a little hard
Well, you should always make test cuts with any new cutting tool to make sure you understand what it does. Never make a cut to a real project part with a tool you don't fully understand the action of.
Wouldn't a strong bottom have stabilized the whole drawer and the joint would just have to withstand parts of the pulling force while the drawer is opened?
Suggest a roll of pain paper to cover the bench when gluing stuff up . . .
Can you put a stop collar on the router bit at the correct height so it's easily repeatable after changing bits?
Sure, but if you make many drawers, I'd always use a test piece
I do not think a stop collar is a good idea, why? The bit would be raised higher leaving less of the bit in the bit holder this would create a high mass high center of gravity swinging around at about 16.000 rpm. Not very safe. Large bits need to turn slower have 1/2 shank or larger and sit as low as possible in the collect the mass of the bit below the jaws of the bit add stability when rotating.
The answer to your Dilemma is to get the bit set up properly height and fence depth for your stock thickness and make and save setup blocks for the next time you use this bit.😁🛫
Would this bit work with a plunge router? I unfortunately do not have a router table. But I do have a festool plunge router.
I see no reason why it shouldn't work
Give Miller Dowels a try, they are fast and strong.
Thanks for a great video Marius, it's a neat router bit, but I suspect it's quite expensive? Economies of scale though I suppose, if you're making lots of drawers, it'd be a good investment. Out of interest, what is the brown faced board that you're using called?
The bit is about 45€. It's called Phenolic resin coated plywood
@@MariusHornberger Thank you Marius, I've been trying to find out the name of it for ages, it looks really hard wearing?
@@edwardholmes91 it is. Usually it is used for building trailers for example...
Hi: what do you call that guage used to set the router table fence? I'd like to get one, thank you!
That's a depth gauge
@@MariusHornberger Thank you
Only thing that I don't like about joint like this is the mating surfaces are always end grain to long grain if used with solid wood.
lol. grate video and grate routerbit but you have to look this video direktly after Lauras video, how to avoid math :) I love math, so everythink is perfect.
Thanks for showing
Gruß Sascha
I would assume that when you integrate the drawer bottom in the frame, it will not brake. :-)
I was going to make a similar comment. The true test of strength would be to try to pull the front off the drawer.
very nice
Do you have a link for that router "bit" =) would really like to try it out at home =) .
Love your videoes =)
amzn.to/3LJQU6E
I think my brain is about to explode...
Can you do a drawer demo with a domino and similar destructive test?
16:20 Wenn du den Boden noch falzt und ein Bodeneinleimst, dann hält das bestimmt nochmal mehr aus 😉
Hi Marius, this time you lost me, too many numbers. I guess I will watch it a couple of times ☺. Thanks ...Guenther
You can also use that bit for the bottom
the router bit makes for a beautiful joint, yet there's relatively much end grain which compromises the strength
Drawer locks are typically only used on the back of drawers. The front is usually some other kind of joinery. Half blind dovetails are popular.
I was thinking about getting one of these bits until I watched this video, but I quit computer programming when my TRS-80 died, and I hate math.
Someone just give me a hatchet!
similar settings to miter lock router bit
Are you still happy with your cool Hammertablesaw?
yes, it still works great
You dranned many plawers? ;-)
GOOD
Ui, du hast das Video ausgeschnippst :-0
LG
Whats the name of the bit?
Daniel H. This called a drawer lock miter bit. Their are two styles with the same name, this version is easier to setup. Search on the name and you will see both.😁🛫
To mill like in 5:06 is very dangerous. You could fall into the cutter. Pls. Use a drawer to guide the piece at the fence.
Tolles Video - wie immer :D aber irgendwie überzeugt mich der fräser nicht; ein falz tuts doch auch oder? Grüße aus Memmingen ;) mach weiter so!!
Sicher, mit dem Fräser vielleicht einen Tick besser, aber letztendlich wird beides halten