This is absolute perfection. Pure master joiner at work. Served my time from 1979 as a bench, woodmachine and site joiner. What you do is another level. You are now my go too channel.
I've used this kind of cutter for cabinet corners and for making rectangular columns. Once you have them set up (I recommend keeping an offcut and using that to check the setup if you use standard thicknesses of material) they're easy to get going. Depending on the wood, you can also burnish the outside corners to keep that joint invisible even after sanding.
Cheers Pete, yeah, now i have a decent technique for the setup, it seemed to go swimmingly! Everyone is really impressed with the joint, and over such a long length i admit i'm quite impressed.
@@jimc4731 True. Many have been using them on router tables. But I can tell you from personal experience that the difference between doing this with a router bit vs a big shaper head is night and day. Definitely smoother on the shaper in my experience, and the power feed helps keep everything pressed down and lined up.
@@BradshawJoinery I just watched your Container Re Fit Absolutely Awesome the Care You take Doing your own work , just great to see a Master Craftsman taking that much care on his own projects , Just subscribed a new Fan from Perth Australia
I love this cutter. Thanks for the demonstration. I must say you are brave man using your gloved hands to face your material. I use sticky foam faced paddles now. I have faced thousands of feet on a beast of machine a 16” Oliver. That’s when I is was young and full of it. A man I worked with had a kick back and his left forward hand was drug back into the blade . The Jointer had no remorse it’s just a machine. As we all no a fraction of a second. Four fingers gone down to the palm and half his thumb. I’ve heard it said “that a smart man learns from his mistakes and a wise man learns from others mistakes” I love your work. And your videos are very helpful. Old dog loving new tricks
Cheers Louis! I have always tried to portray that its not always about how it looks on camera, if my hands are somewhere i know may be hazardous, i hold a changed balance and dont fully lean into the cut so that if the timber were to instantly dissapear i wuldnt fall into it!
I am a finish carpenter in the States ; what you are in the UK ; and no matter a pro is a pro! That is pro work ! Bottom line you get what you pay for! And that’s the best money can buy!
Really smart technique using the level line as the standard to measure from. I never do that, and always have a hard time getting things like outlets in exactly the right spot. I'm going to try this now.
Cheers Pete, Yes i dont do any fitting without a laser and have discovered many many techniques im yet to see anyone else use. Ill do a video at some point and also recommendation on laser type.
@@BradshawJoinery That would be great, thank you. I have a decent laser, but I've only ever used it for things like making sure drop ceilings or chair rail are level and vertical bits are plumb. Never thought to measure to it.
I do a lot of work in Germany and Scandinavian and all joiners/fitters use lasers. I don’t see why they are used so little here as such a useful bit of kit. I have a Geo-fennel and have found so many uses for it.
I've used them for a few years on various jobs including cladding existing staircase Newel Posts and cut strings. I've also done new staircase newel posts where they are 5"+ square. I've also made bed posts the same way with a softwood/tulipwood core for stability. It's a really good system with the benefit of only needing to clamp in one direction. As always nice video Oliver. Leitz tooling do some great blocks.
Cheers Adrian, yeah great cutter block! They had one where i did my apprenticeship but it never really got used and was many years ago.... and wasnt high on my tools to buy list, but wish i had to be honest! haha Leits are anther top quality brand, i dont think i own any, deffo got some leitz cutters in the shop. My most overengineered block has to be the oertli (sp) That sure is some unit! Have you ever had a joint open up with the cutter block? assume your using a cascamite or runny glue?
@@BradshawJoinery Hi Oliver, I've used the system a fair few times now and usedcascamite and PU. Not had any issues with joints opening up. I did some newel posts caps in ash with American black walnut core about 3yrs ago and no problems so even mixing species seems fine. Regards Adrian
Saw the router cutter advertised some time ago. I intend to get a router table of some sort just so I can get one of these cutters! Seems like the perfect way of making boxes, or cabinets!
Freeborn makes a cutter that works in conjunction with a dado setup on a table saw. All the pieces run flat through the shaper cutter...then half of them run flat over the dado to make the interlock. When working with large stock.....the big advantage of this system is all the pieces run through the machines on the flat which is much easier than making a vertical pass on the shaper which is harder to control. Disadvantage is obviously the 2 setups. Just an FYI for anyone who works large stock. Beautiful shop...Nice finished product!
For a split second, I thought this was about boxing… then my brain kicked in. Either way, this was a very interesting video and the Trend cutter block looks superb. I use Trend cutter blocks in work and I may have to recommend this one to them. We just made some faux walnut posts for a kitchen we were making, so this would speed things up no end. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the education on adjusting the tooling. I used a miter bit on some 12 replica air gun boxes from England in walnut. and had the devil of a time adjusting the edge. Doing a newel post in oak now and will revisit that lock miter tooling. Or might go with the oak on the big saw and Lamello plates to align.
Great bit of kit this cutter we have one in are workshop for some time now l have used it with mdf 18mm plywood hardwood softwood and if you get it right like you said it’s perfect but two things I do is use a feather board and for quick set up l have two bits l have already cut in 18mm mdf which I keep next to are spindle mouldy so you can set your cutter up quickly l love this cutter great job sir well done 👍 last thing if you sand it just a little on the corners you can’t see the joint it’s that good 👍 😊
Nice one Simon, I had first seen it as an apprentice but its taken me a long time to get to a point where i needed/could buy it! I think this one is slightly better than the one we had, the joint is perfect!
Really satisfying watching that all come together, excellent craftsmanship. Scraping the glue off so AMSR. Well presented video too, thanks for sharing.
That spindle moulder, auto feed and the mitre lock bit are a game changer! I've considered buying the router version mitre lock but have concerns about accuracy on a touter table. Brilliant work as usual!
Honestly just planing to make a 3x sided fake beam to slip on the end of a stud wall to look like a large post is there… and I was trying a few test cuts to try and clamp up in place, not happy with the finish at all… You just saved the day with this !!!
@@BradshawJoinery Using Hitachi M 12 in router table,found it quite easy,once I got my head around it, & it took a couple of trial runs to get depth right, same problems as you had. Infinity Tools actually do a lock mitre jigs to make set up easy, but they are not cheap to buy.
Great video as always buddy ! I do miss my days in the workshop ! Hoping to build a workshop this year so I can get back to joinery over just carpentry !
I believe it was Gustav Stickley that started doing table legs using a locked-miter to insure a vertical grain on all sides. I have used this for years doing furniture.
That sir is amazing work!.. most likely made easier with the cutter but the knowledge you have is incredible, I’m sure you would have gotten the same result without the cutter!
Yes very professional job 👍 you went the long way round to do the job properly and the laser way to measure above and below when fitting is the pro way. Some site Joiners would have made a mess of fitting that after getting it so perfect in the shop, they would have nailed it with the nail gun 😄 Did you test the strength of the joint from the off cuts? The glue surface would be double that of a mitre. Thanks for sharing, watch with a beer 👍🔨📐😄
Cheers Gary! Yeah a few pins were my go to if the glue wasnt enough but didnt really want to break the surface finish. They are way stronger than the wood. It always breaks across the board near the joint when tensioned so im confident in the joint! Hope you enjoyed the beer, not seen any uploads from you in a while mate. I find your videos brilliantly peaceful. You work in a nice spot!
The joinery is particularly good and I like the jointing created with the Trend router. The actual installation does concern me in that the steelwork ought to be fire protected as an element of structure that could have been applied under the casing and the cables ought to have been protected with sheathing or conduit to prevent accidental damage later on, as well as closely defining the route of the cables. A longer than necessary screw through the face could see the cables punctured with shocking results!
Thankyou Clive. The steelwork was specified fire protection, so a fire paint was used before fitting. Cables, well i guess thats the same with any buried service, i doubt you'd even feel capping screwing through oak...
@@BradshawJoinery The fire protection and the electrical protection is clearly not within your remit but unfortunately others less knowledgeable watch these videos and see all the peripheral work. I have specified and inspected too many installations with intumescent paint and to me the steelwork looks as though it only has a primer coat. (most intumescent paint tends to be white). The electrician is responsible for the sheathing on the cables and the protection is normally for where a pilot hole is drilled for a fixing (I wouldn't screw directly into oak or any hardwood without one). With the drilling, unless you are being completely ham-fisted you will feel the drill go through the wood and then feel a secondary resistance if its sheathed, if not then there will be a bang! and the whole casing will need to be stripped off to repair the cable. A top class job will use steel conduit for protection and potential future rewiring.
That worked out well - how do you think would it compare if a lamello was used for the same job ? Say using tenso connectors with titebond type glue - I have the lamello but not the cutter head so your thoughts please! Thanks for the videos looking forward to the next
Great ideaHi David, I dont own, nor have ever used the lamello, so im in the same boat as you albeit t'ther way round. Id say this is going to be a lot stronger than any straight mitre joint, and a more professional job. The lamello would be better suited to if you came across the job on site and needed a solution? I guess also the lamello you have to machine both a really accurate mitre and then machine the lamello connectors (assuming you mean using them on an angle to match)
@@BradshawJoinery thanks for sharing your opinion - yes I normally use it for onsite fixes when it’s not practical/ possible to leave something in clamps . Definitely agree lock mitre glued as you did is stronger. 👍
I also believe that using technology to achieve such perfection is in harmony with a craftsman's necessary ultimate focus on the end result rather than the journey toward it. Let's not forget though that you should take all the credit to harness that power perfectly ! Congrats !
Thankyou Jean-pierre, your a gent! Its always been a combination of great machinery and great craftsmanship. Both on their own, work well, but combined and its another level!
Fantastic ability. If you read this, would you please educate me as to what kind of adhesive you were using? It looked like silicone which I have never seen used if this application, but it certainly was perfect. I also have been trying to find a tape ruler of that minimalist type to no avail here in the US. Thank you for the video.
looks great fella and a good match to the windows and doors to. one thing i would mention though would be your use of expanding foam over or around cables, the standard expanding foam can degrade the insulation of the cables so we are no longer allowed to use it on the sites i work at and have to use the fire rated foam instead as it does not have the same effect on the insulation of cables. also on the jigsaw note i have a festool demo booked soon and if you dont mind i may show them the video which may i turn help them fix the issue and i can replace my worn out makita jigsaw or i buy a Mafell
Cheers Ross, not something i was aware of tbh so thanks for that. Not sure festool will admit a problem with the jigsaw on the demo, but have a close look at the blade and see if there is any loose movement forwards and backwards (unsprung). I bet there isnt in the demo one.
@@BradshawJoinery no worries buddy, It seems quick a few people are unaware of this issue and i only found out 4 or 5 years back when i was no longer allowed to use it on site as the company had issue with past project electrics which was out down to expanding foam degrading cable insulation. No your probably right on that one as i tried to give them my thoughts on the RO150 which i think is to slow in rotex mode and could do with a few more ponies. It would have been a good sander if it was rotary and rotex only. i shall make sure to check it on the demo model as then at least i can use the fact the demo model never had that much play if the bought one turns up bad
Nice tool, great attention to detail and skilled execution. On a side note, it really makes my skin crawl when I see wires without any conduit running underneath wood. It's required in my country to use plastic, self-extinguishing conduit in such cases.
I‘d add a warning for those thinking of buying either the shaper or router versions - I have both. I find the setup on both much harder than in this video. You have to get both the cutter height and fence correct, and changing one means you have to adjust the other. I don‘t have a digital readout on my Hammer combi machine, but am buying one in the hope that this will help. The second problem is shaping sheet goods (eg plywood) with the top veneer as cross grain. Along the grain the cuts are excellent, but across the grain so much tearout as to make it unusable. Solutions to this problem for cabinets are a) make sure that all miter joints are along the grain or b) score the top veneer before shaping. I haven‘t used either on solid wood yet. When everything works, they are an excellent solution.
Hi Bill, an easy solution for finding the ecact centre is align the centre bevel of the tooth with the bed as shown, then use a Cheap DTI Indicator to raise the cutter, no need for a DRO. Then any adjustments will be to the fence and not height. Hope that helps, and thanks for your help. Ive never tried on cross grain, i assume not machining the outer veneer past half its thickness would provide enough support not to break it out>
Look for a tool called a thingamajig scribing tool. Super sharp carbide cutter will quickly and accurately score your cross grain cuts, eliminating tear out.
I find the easiest way it to set the fence and height as close as you can and then run a test piece flat. Cut a piece off and see it it comes together on the same plane. Adjust the height as neccesary to get that correct and then adjust the fence so it comes to a sharp edge. Much easier to do one adjustment at a time.
Great video as usual just the way you explain the little things, like small blocks wood here to do this & that & improvisation when needed. Can I ask about the foam you used is it different to that awful brown insulation stuff as a sparky I know has his doubts about that stuff being used next to electric cables, there a couple of Screwfix forums about it
@@BradshawJoinery no sorry, you misunderstood me. The houses we build are all brand new and high end on the lakes in the area. There what you call vaulted ceiling’s. I live in an area called muskoka in Canada. If you Google the area you will see the multi million dollar cottages and boathouses we build there
im tempted to get the router version. is that accoya on your bench at the start? i have some and wonder how you remove the stained discoloration without taking too much of the board thickness?, i presume its from the acetalyzing process they use on it.
Hi mate, yeah its accoya. you cant, what size you using? Generally buy 1/2" more and plane it back if you need stained without stipes. Or if its boarding, say 18mm, id buy 2" and deep cut it down themiddle then use the centre part as the best face. Its from the sticks and the processes, heat and then damp both kilning and treating, it goes through the mill a bit!
@@BradshawJoinery I thought so, had a load for a job but leftover boards are 18 mm, I'll try planing down to half inch n see if can get away with it, I find it very variable, some is clear and some heavily stained. Very few knots though and it's really stable, cheers
Great. Ta. Would you use that laser line technique similar to marking socket positions, on say a bottom kitchen unit, or living room alcove unit, where you have to cut out the back for pipes or a socket? Do you think that PU glue would be ideal for a gate to a back yard? I am in no rush to fix/make my gate, just wondering about the glue/ Cheers
In short, yes and yes. 👍 Pu glue is the best for external as it's incredibly strong but also a degree of flexibility allowing it to hold on even with some movement Laser snc be used in all sorts of ways and yeah would definitely use it for that
At the very start I could have sworn you said 'baked beans' then realised you said 'fake beams' ... (my hearing's not what it used to be). Great job as usual, Ollie. 👍
Hey, do you have experience using HSS profile knives on euroblocks? I've ordered an euroblock and a couple of knives n limiters, excited to see how it works. Do they last a good while? or will I need to send them to sharpen often
They last well in solid timber. Can give the flat side a touch up on a diamond stone for more life, they are not for use on mdf or plywood, will ruin them very quickly
I would like very much to use this jointing system for at least a couple of projects but I don't have a spindle moulding machine (and of course not the bit either). However, according to some pro woodworkers it's not really possible to do long box beams using a regular table router bit (except for small box projects) as you need the power of the spindle moulder + large bit to overcome cupping and twisting issues involved with long boards. Any views/experiences? Thanks very much for the video, beautiful end result.
If the router table is sturdy i dont see how it would be any different! Just need adequate pressure at the fence both downa nd sideways to make sure the cut is consistent at the point its cutting. If anything, a smaller bed is better for really cupped timber.
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks very much for your response, it was just I had previously watched a seemingly very knowledgeable American carpenter Spencer Lewis who was pretty trenchant on the matter - I shall give it go. Here's his video from 2019 just for interest th-cam.com/video/kE5yCC6ffcQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=InsiderCarpentry-SpencerLewis
Great video and excellent result. I’ve been using a tracksaw and mitring at just over 45 degrees, using tape for clamps, as demonstrated by Richard at honest carpenter, which does give excellent results on veneered mdf. I wonder if having to leave the extra half mm or so for support during machining might cause an issue in leaving the substrate visible on a veneered board?
ice one Steve, you could machine to a true bevel but would have to make allowances for removing that material its runnign on or have it set spot on to finish to a bevel. I think you could make it work, but would have to be spot on machining. Better suited to thicker veneers and solid, but definitley possible.
Could always use the old blue tape and super glue method or some good two sided tape to attach a guide board that would register off the fence/table for getting a perfectly cut miter. Great demonstration of this tool, though. Great results from what I could see in the video.
Fantastic work as usual I noticed some technical printouts taped around the job I was wondering what software you use ,I’m quite old school and draw my plans on the drawing board but toying with fusion ( the kids use it at school 😳) or sketch up
Hi Chris, thankyou, you will get on well with either, fusion will set you up better if you ever plan to go CNC route, but SketchUp I find really good for what I do. The layout program is brilliant
Very nice job. But l have been using locking miter joints for about 15 years. Mostly on furniture, like when I'm using 1/4 sawn oak and see it on all sides.
@@BradshawJoinery Good tools will never let you down....But todays timber quality will !!!! It seems to be shit. A friend of mine only uses reclaimed timber as its so much nicer and stable etc
Yes and no, easily paid for in one job, with the cost of timber at the minute. say 70mm square posts for a kitchen, can use thin stock material for a chunky post.
brilliant job, they are good cutters, mine has rotatable cutters that can be replaced once worn, I hate to play devils advocate but i continue to see joiners working with gloves, please for the love of your fingers and hand, don't wear gloves when using wood working machinery, I have been a joiner for 30 years and have seen too many fingers and hands lost to machines because of gloves, what could be a small nick or cut turns into disaster once a sharp spinning object get a hold of the glove and pulls it in. brilliant job though, sorry to heave added the glove part but you only get 8 fingers and 2 thumbs in your life time at this point. love your work
Cheers Luke, yes thats a good method, make sure you undercut the mitre by 0.5 degree so to clamps tight at the corner all way round. The idea of the cutter though is the glue surface area and the fact you can clamp it across the face (easy) rather than across the mitre (hard)
This is absolute perfection. Pure master joiner at work. Served my time from 1979 as a bench, woodmachine and site joiner. What you do is another level. You are now my go too channel.
Hello and Thankyou! Really really good to hear! too kind!
I've used this kind of cutter for cabinet corners and for making rectangular columns. Once you have them set up (I recommend keeping an offcut and using that to check the setup if you use standard thicknesses of material) they're easy to get going. Depending on the wood, you can also burnish the outside corners to keep that joint invisible even after sanding.
Cheers Pete, yeah, now i have a decent technique for the setup, it seemed to go swimmingly! Everyone is really impressed with the joint, and over such a long length i admit i'm quite impressed.
Good show! 👍
That joint has been around for years though.
JIM
@@jimc4731 True. Many have been using them on router tables. But I can tell you from personal experience that the difference between doing this with a router bit vs a big shaper head is night and day. Definitely smoother on the shaper in my experience, and the power feed helps keep everything pressed down and lined up.
P 😌p
15:22 so crisp 😎 next level stuff right there. Nice cutter and nice work.
Cheers mate👍 🙌 🙌
Very good presentation and a very good job well done! It looks great. Outstanding craftsmanship! 👍
That's an interesting piece of kit. And one that worked really well in your skilled hands. Great video, thanks.
Thankyou very much, its my favourite tool at the minute.
Awesome Craftsmanship , you gotta love the People that Engineer these Cutters and the Craftsman who get the best out of them
Cheers Rob, absolutley! In full admiration of the engineering that is involved!
@@BradshawJoinery I just watched your Container Re Fit Absolutely Awesome the Care You take Doing your own work , just great to see a Master Craftsman taking that much care on his own projects , Just subscribed a new Fan from Perth Australia
Absolutely superb in construction and finish, but I wouldn't expect anything else. Brilliant job!!!
I have absolutely no use for this cutter but I want one!! 😂 Cracking job as usual Ollie. 👍🏼
Haha!!! I can see your reasoning tbh!! Cheers Simon
The level of precision you got is very satisfying!
Thankyou Eric, Frustrating for me sometimes! lol
I love this cutter. Thanks for the demonstration. I must say you are brave man using your gloved hands to face your material. I use sticky foam faced paddles now. I have faced thousands of feet on a beast of machine a 16” Oliver. That’s when I is was young and full of it.
A man I worked with had a kick back and his left forward hand was drug back into the blade . The Jointer had no remorse it’s just a machine. As we all no a fraction of a second. Four fingers gone down to the palm and half his thumb. I’ve heard it said “that a smart man learns from his mistakes and a wise man learns from others mistakes”
I love your work. And your videos are very helpful.
Old dog loving new tricks
Cheers Louis! I have always tried to portray that its not always about how it looks on camera, if my hands are somewhere i know may be hazardous, i hold a changed balance and dont fully lean into the cut so that if the timber were to instantly dissapear i wuldnt fall into it!
They make a nice strong joint. Enjoyed watching the boxing in, superb job. Tony
Nice one Tony, First out the gates on the comments! 👏
I've been debating on getting a bit like that for my router, I don't have a shaper. Now, I'm sold on it. Thanks for the great video.
Nice one Roy, it certainly works well for this and seems very useful cutter based on the comments
These videos are great. Could you do one on all the spindle moulder cutters you use for us new woodworkers - thanks Mark
Yeah i can do to be fair.
I am a finish carpenter in the States ; what you are in the UK ; and no matter a pro is a pro! That is pro work ! Bottom line you get what you pay for! And that’s the best money can buy!
Cheers mate, awesome to read a comment like this from another professional. Nice one thanks for watching.
Really smart technique using the level line as the standard to measure from. I never do that, and always have a hard time getting things like outlets in exactly the right spot. I'm going to try this now.
The trick with screwing through the electrical boxes was another brilliant one. Lots of good tips in this video.
Cheers Pete, Yes i dont do any fitting without a laser and have discovered many many techniques im yet to see anyone else use. Ill do a video at some point and also recommendation on laser type.
@@BradshawJoinery That would be great, thank you. I have a decent laser, but I've only ever used it for things like making sure drop ceilings or chair rail are level and vertical bits are plumb. Never thought to measure to it.
I do a lot of work in Germany and Scandinavian and all joiners/fitters use lasers. I don’t see why they are used so little here as such a useful bit of kit. I have a Geo-fennel and have found so many uses for it.
Beautiful end result, excellent craftsmanship
Cheers for that, agreed on the end result, still looks fantastic!
A beautiful job as always! I am glad that they do a router cutter version too and it is definitely something that I am going to purchase.
Thankyou Christopher, Yeah there is a few different router versions from trend, so id do some research as to which one is most suitable
I've used them for a few years on various jobs including cladding existing staircase Newel Posts and cut strings. I've also done new staircase newel posts where they are 5"+ square. I've also made bed posts the same way with a softwood/tulipwood core for stability. It's a really good system with the benefit of only needing to clamp in one direction. As always nice video Oliver. Leitz tooling do some great blocks.
Cheers Adrian, yeah great cutter block! They had one where i did my apprenticeship but it never really got used and was many years ago.... and wasnt high on my tools to buy list, but wish i had to be honest! haha Leits are anther top quality brand, i dont think i own any, deffo got some leitz cutters in the shop. My most overengineered block has to be the oertli (sp) That sure is some unit! Have you ever had a joint open up with the cutter block? assume your using a cascamite or runny glue?
@@BradshawJoinery Hi Oliver, I've used the system a fair few times now and usedcascamite and PU. Not had any issues with joints opening up. I did some newel posts caps in ash with American black walnut core about 3yrs ago and no problems so even mixing species seems fine. Regards Adrian
True professional going the extra mile thanks for the video
Cheers matey
What a joy to watch, craftsmanship at its best
Thankyou Paul 🙌 that's great to hear ☺️
Saw the router cutter advertised some time ago. I intend to get a router table of some sort just so I can get one of these cutters! Seems like the perfect way of making boxes, or cabinets!
Its a great tool. tricky setup, but brilliant once right!
Stunning. Pure class.
Thankyou Bob!
Freeborn makes a cutter that works in conjunction with a dado setup on a table saw. All the pieces run flat through the shaper cutter...then half of them run flat over the dado to make the interlock. When working with large stock.....the big advantage of this system is all the pieces run through the machines on the flat which is much easier than making a vertical pass on the shaper which is harder to control. Disadvantage is obviously the 2 setups. Just an FYI for anyone who works large stock. Beautiful shop...Nice finished product!
Nice one Ryan, Its good to hear of different solutions and thats one i havent seen before so thanks for sharing!
For a split second, I thought this was about boxing… then my brain kicked in. Either way, this was a very interesting video and the Trend cutter block looks superb. I use Trend cutter blocks in work and I may have to recommend this one to them. We just made some faux walnut posts for a kitchen we were making, so this would speed things up no end. Keep up the great work!
Haha yeah, might get a few stray clicks with that title! Yeah if your making up any kind of posts itll pay for itself on the first outing,
Thanks for the education on adjusting the tooling. I used a miter bit on some 12 replica air gun boxes from England in walnut. and had the devil of a time adjusting the edge. Doing a newel post in oak now and will revisit that lock miter tooling. Or might go with the oak on the big saw and Lamello plates to align.
No worries Vincent, The mitre lock is a great cutter if setup right and timber can feed through evenly
That joint... *chef's kiss* beautiful
Thanks Mate! I love it!
WOW.....DON'T THINK I'VE SEEN TIGHTER JOINTS.....GREAT WORK....
Cheers Rick
Great bit of kit this cutter we have one in are workshop for some time now l have used it with mdf 18mm plywood hardwood softwood and if you get it right like you said it’s perfect but two things I do is use a feather board and for quick set up l have two bits l have already cut in 18mm mdf which I keep next to are spindle mouldy so you can set your cutter up quickly l love this cutter great job sir well done 👍 last thing if you sand it just a little on the corners you can’t see the joint it’s that good 👍 😊
Nice one Simon, I had first seen it as an apprentice but its taken me a long time to get to a point where i needed/could buy it! I think this one is slightly better than the one we had, the joint is perfect!
Great tip for set up, thanks!
Wow amazing work Oliver 🔥
Thankyou, and many thanks for the support!
Really satisfying watching that all come together, excellent craftsmanship. Scraping the glue off so AMSR. Well presented video too, thanks for sharing.
Cheers matey! Thanks for watching
Hi Ollie
Wow mate that’s a great bit of kit..what great skills you have for such a young lad .😊 thanks mate amazing skills 🪚👍🪚👍
Cheers Carl! Im not so young as i used to be haha! Cheers Buddy!!
That spindle moulder, auto feed and the mitre lock bit are a game changer! I've considered buying the router version mitre lock but have concerns about accuracy on a touter table. Brilliant work as usual!
Cheers matey, yes i use the mitre lock quite a bit now! Brilliant tool for sure.
Best channel on YT 👍
🙌 your a good OLE boy Philip 😉🔥🤣
Honestly just planing to make a 3x sided fake beam to slip on the end of a stud wall to look like a large post is there… and I was trying a few test cuts to try and clamp up in place, not happy with the finish at all… You just saved the day with this !!!
Nice one! Ive had a right result with it, love it to bits!
They can be a real bugger to get perfect, but sure are handy. Really nice site work too!
Cheers mate! Yeah the DRO on the spindle height is a godsend tbh! i guess a dti could be used on a regular spindle for setting the height.
That's a beautiful joint, like you said you can hardly see the glue line 😍
Its a stunner! Very good
I use the small & large router versions,they are very useful cutters & very underated..
Cheers Stuart. How are they to setup in the router? Good to know they work well too
@@BradshawJoinery Using Hitachi M 12 in router table,found it quite easy,once I got my head around it, & it took a couple of trial runs to get depth right, same problems as you had. Infinity Tools actually do a lock mitre jigs to make set up easy, but they are not cheap to buy.
Great video as always buddy ! I do miss my days in the workshop ! Hoping to build a workshop this year so I can get back to joinery over just carpentry !
Cheers matey, Its difficult, allure of more money from site work and the variation over the ease and enjoyment of a proper setup and nice work.
@@BradshawJoinery completely agree mate.
Olly, mention this to Richard, over at Finish Carpentry, I think he would benefit hugely, for the type of work he does. Cheers fella.
Cheers Kev, seems like he's seen it now by his comment mate, thankyou
incredibly accurate and beautiful work, Mate! Well done!
Cheers for that! Thankyou for watching
Another great bit of work.looks stunning.
Cheers Paul
I believe it was Gustav Stickley that started doing table legs using a locked-miter to insure a vertical grain on all sides. I have used this for years doing furniture.
Yeah they are brilliant cutters! Tried and tested!
That sir is amazing work!.. most likely made easier with the cutter but the knowledge you have is incredible, I’m sure you would have gotten the same result without the cutter!
Cheers Craig. 🙌 There are always many ways and means of doing a job but i think for this box joint, the cutter cannot be beaten
I thoroughly enjoyed your video and thank you for sharing. That is a nice piece of kit. 🌞
Cheers Ray! :)
Smokin! Thanks for the video. Cheers, David
Cheers for that Comment David! :)
Yes very professional job 👍 you went the long way round to do the job properly and the laser way to measure above and below when fitting is the pro way. Some site Joiners would have made a mess of fitting that after getting it so perfect in the shop, they would have nailed it with the nail gun 😄
Did you test the strength of the joint from the off cuts? The glue surface would be double that of a mitre.
Thanks for sharing, watch with a beer 👍🔨📐😄
Cheers Gary! Yeah a few pins were my go to if the glue wasnt enough but didnt really want to break the surface finish. They are way stronger than the wood. It always breaks across the board near the joint when tensioned so im confident in the joint! Hope you enjoyed the beer, not seen any uploads from you in a while mate. I find your videos brilliantly peaceful. You work in a nice spot!
The joinery is particularly good and I like the jointing created with the Trend router.
The actual installation does concern me in that the steelwork ought to be fire protected as an element of structure that could have been applied under the casing and the cables ought to have been protected with sheathing or conduit to prevent accidental damage later on, as well as closely defining the route of the cables. A longer than necessary screw through the face could see the cables punctured with shocking results!
Thankyou Clive. The steelwork was specified fire protection, so a fire paint was used before fitting. Cables, well i guess thats the same with any buried service, i doubt you'd even feel capping screwing through oak...
@@BradshawJoinery The fire protection and the electrical protection is clearly not within your remit but unfortunately others less knowledgeable watch these videos and see all the peripheral work. I have specified and inspected too many installations with intumescent paint and to me the steelwork looks as though it only has a primer coat. (most intumescent paint tends to be white).
The electrician is responsible for the sheathing on the cables and the protection is normally for where a pilot hole is drilled for a fixing (I wouldn't screw directly into oak or any hardwood without one). With the drilling, unless you are being completely ham-fisted you will feel the drill go through the wood and then feel a secondary resistance if its sheathed, if not then there will be a bang! and the whole casing will need to be stripped off to repair the cable. A top class job will use steel conduit for protection and potential future rewiring.
That was absolutely superb
Cheers Alastair, love comments like this! :D
That worked out well - how do you think would it compare if a lamello was used for the same job ? Say using tenso connectors with titebond type glue - I have the lamello but not the cutter head so your thoughts please! Thanks for the videos looking forward to the next
Great ideaHi David, I dont own, nor have ever used the lamello, so im in the same boat as you albeit t'ther way round. Id say this is going to be a lot stronger than any straight mitre joint, and a more professional job. The lamello would be better suited to if you came across the job on site and needed a solution? I guess also the lamello you have to machine both a really accurate mitre and then machine the lamello connectors (assuming you mean using them on an angle to match)
@@BradshawJoinery thanks for sharing your opinion - yes I normally use it for onsite fixes when it’s not practical/ possible to leave something in clamps . Definitely agree lock mitre glued as you did is stronger. 👍
I also believe that using technology to achieve such perfection is in harmony with a craftsman's necessary ultimate focus on the end result rather than the journey toward it. Let's not forget though that you should take all the credit to harness that power perfectly ! Congrats !
Thankyou Jean-pierre, your a gent! Its always been a combination of great machinery and great craftsmanship. Both on their own, work well, but combined and its another level!
Fantastic ability. If you read this, would you please educate me as to what kind of adhesive you were using? It looked like silicone which I have never seen used if this application, but it certainly was perfect. I also have been trying to find a tape ruler of that minimalist type to no avail here in the US. Thank you for the video.
It PU glue in a 310mm tube. Great gear but need to get used to it
Impressive as always.
Cheers Nicholas
Really, really enjoy watching(and learn A LOT) cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
Thankyou Richard! :) Appreciate the support
Great video, great bit o kit and great skills and props to you. Hope your fingers ok… oh la la!!
Cheers Adam! All good over here :)
A very nice spindle.
Cheers Geoff yeah she's lovely
looks great fella and a good match to the windows and doors to. one thing i would mention though would be your use of expanding foam over or around cables, the standard expanding foam can degrade the insulation of the cables so we are no longer allowed to use it on the sites i work at and have to use the fire rated foam instead as it does not have the same effect on the insulation of cables.
also on the jigsaw note i have a festool demo booked soon and if you dont mind i may show them the video which may i turn help them fix the issue and i can replace my worn out makita jigsaw or i buy a Mafell
Cheers Ross, not something i was aware of tbh so thanks for that. Not sure festool will admit a problem with the jigsaw on the demo, but have a close look at the blade and see if there is any loose movement forwards and backwards (unsprung). I bet there isnt in the demo one.
@@BradshawJoinery no worries buddy, It seems quick a few people are unaware of this issue and i only found out 4 or 5 years back when i was no longer allowed to use it on site as the company had issue with past project electrics which was out down to expanding foam degrading cable insulation. No your probably right on that one as i tried to give them my thoughts on the RO150 which i think is to slow in rotex mode and could do with a few more ponies. It would have been a good sander if it was rotary and rotex only. i shall make sure to check it on the demo model as then at least i can use the fact the demo model never had that much play if the bought one turns up bad
Simply amazing, love it.
Thankyou Shane!! :D
Just amazing
Thankyou!!! :)
Nice tool, great attention to detail and skilled execution.
On a side note, it really makes my skin crawl when I see wires without any conduit running underneath wood.
It's required in my country to use plastic, self-extinguishing conduit in such cases.
Cheers matey, I have had a few comments about Expanding foam eating the insulation. news to me so will be careful in the future.
Would love to see if the router versions work as well, oh for a spindle moulder but then again oh for a workshop big enough to put one in.
Yeah, i think the router one is a little tricky to get right. the adjustment need to be very fine.
I‘d add a warning for those thinking of buying either the shaper or router versions - I have both. I find the setup on both much harder than in this video. You have to get both the cutter height and fence correct, and changing one means you have to adjust the other. I don‘t have a digital readout on my Hammer combi machine, but am buying one in the hope that this will help. The second problem is shaping sheet goods (eg plywood) with the top veneer as cross grain. Along the grain the cuts are excellent, but across the grain so much tearout as to make it unusable. Solutions to this problem for cabinets are a) make sure that all miter joints are along the grain or b) score the top veneer before shaping. I haven‘t used either on solid wood yet. When everything works, they are an excellent solution.
Hi Bill, an easy solution for finding the ecact centre is align the centre bevel of the tooth with the bed as shown, then use a Cheap DTI Indicator to raise the cutter, no need for a DRO. Then any adjustments will be to the fence and not height. Hope that helps, and thanks for your help. Ive never tried on cross grain, i assume not machining the outer veneer past half its thickness would provide enough support not to break it out>
Look for a tool called a thingamajig scribing tool. Super sharp carbide cutter will quickly and accurately score your cross grain cuts, eliminating tear out.
I find the easiest way it to set the fence and height as close as you can and then run a test piece flat. Cut a piece off and see it it comes together on the same plane. Adjust the height as neccesary to get that correct and then adjust the fence so it comes to a sharp edge. Much easier to do one adjustment at a time.
Good job 👍 do you think trend do a cutter for a router table? Or Im thinking using 45’ cutter and dominos if not, what do you think ?
Hi Ken, thanks, yes I've added a link in the description for the appropriate router cutter 👍
Great video as usual just the way you explain the little things, like small blocks wood here to do this & that & improvisation when needed. Can I ask about the foam you used is it different to that awful brown insulation stuff as a sparky I know has his doubts about that stuff being used next to electric cables, there a couple of Screwfix forums about it
Hi Mate, your the second to mention the foam, Ill be honest i wasnt aware of it attacking the cables. I will look into it, what does it do?
Sorry if this has been asked before but where do you buy your hardwoods from please
Excellent work.
Cheers Craig!
We use those cutters here in Canada to make fake beams on cathedral ceilings 👍
Nice one JIm, Great to know! How old are the cathedrals in Canada?
@@BradshawJoinery no sorry, you misunderstood me. The houses we build are all brand new and high end on the lakes in the area. There what you call vaulted ceiling’s. I live in an area called muskoka in Canada. If you Google the area you will see the multi million dollar cottages and boathouses we build there
im tempted to get the router version. is that accoya on your bench at the start? i have some and wonder how you remove the stained discoloration without taking too much of the board thickness?, i presume its from the acetalyzing process they use on it.
Hi mate, yeah its accoya. you cant, what size you using? Generally buy 1/2" more and plane it back if you need stained without stipes. Or if its boarding, say 18mm, id buy 2" and deep cut it down themiddle then use the centre part as the best face. Its from the sticks and the processes, heat and then damp both kilning and treating, it goes through the mill a bit!
@@BradshawJoinery
I thought so, had a load for a job but leftover boards are 18 mm, I'll try planing down to half inch n see if can get away with it, I find it very variable, some is clear and some heavily stained. Very few knots though and it's really stable, cheers
Perfect!
Cheers matey!!
Superb Ollie... Looks like a solid piece of Oak..... 😂😂
Haha cheers Paul. Yeah I did such a good thing, took some solid oak, and made it look like a solid bit of oak
@@BradshawJoinery Ha Ha ...Got nowt else to do tonight so I bought the router table version... £54
Haha! Dangerous those evenings lingering over online tool shops 👀
Almost never regret it either when they turn up 🤣
Great. Ta. Would you use that laser line technique similar to marking socket positions, on say a bottom kitchen unit, or living room alcove unit, where you have to cut out the back for pipes or a socket? Do you think that PU glue would be ideal for a gate to a back yard? I am in no rush to fix/make my gate, just wondering about the glue/ Cheers
In short, yes and yes. 👍 Pu glue is the best for external as it's incredibly strong but also a degree of flexibility allowing it to hold on even with some movement
Laser snc be used in all sorts of ways and yeah would definitely use it for that
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you!
At the very start I could have sworn you said 'baked beans' then realised you said 'fake beams' ... (my hearing's not what it used to be). Great job as usual, Ollie. 👍
🤣🤣 brilliant,
Last video it was shitters and now baked beans 🤣
@@BradshawJoinery There seems to be somewhat of a theme. hahaha
Lol! I guess the two go hand in hand 🤣
Hey, do you have experience using HSS profile knives on euroblocks? I've ordered an euroblock and a couple of knives n limiters, excited to see how it works. Do they last a good while? or will I need to send them to sharpen often
They last well in solid timber. Can give the flat side a touch up on a diamond stone for more life, they are not for use on mdf or plywood, will ruin them very quickly
Yes i used it today and it was efficiency at is best
Brilliant video, thank you 😊
Cheers Again Michael
Nicely done.
Cheers Anthony
really nice job!!
Won't that foam react over time with the material sheathing the electric cables?
Like the Felder spindle moulder. Think I'd keep my hands further away though
Cheers Rob, its safer if you keep on the feed side of the cutter. hands on the exit side is bad news!
I would like very much to use this jointing system for at least a couple of projects but I don't have a spindle moulding machine (and of course not the bit either). However, according to some pro woodworkers it's not really possible to do long box beams using a regular table router bit (except for small box projects) as you need the power of the spindle moulder + large bit to overcome cupping and twisting issues involved with long boards. Any views/experiences? Thanks very much for the video, beautiful end result.
If the router table is sturdy i dont see how it would be any different! Just need adequate pressure at the fence both downa nd sideways to make sure the cut is consistent at the point its cutting. If anything, a smaller bed is better for really cupped timber.
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks very much for your response, it was just I had previously watched a seemingly very knowledgeable American carpenter Spencer Lewis who was pretty trenchant on the matter - I shall give it go. Here's his video from 2019 just for interest th-cam.com/video/kE5yCC6ffcQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=InsiderCarpentry-SpencerLewis
Great video and excellent result.
I’ve been using a tracksaw and mitring at just over 45 degrees, using tape for clamps, as demonstrated by Richard at honest carpenter, which does give excellent results on veneered mdf.
I wonder if having to leave the extra half mm or so for support during machining might cause an issue in leaving the substrate visible on a veneered board?
ice one Steve, you could machine to a true bevel but would have to make allowances for removing that material its runnign on or have it set spot on to finish to a bevel. I think you could make it work, but would have to be spot on machining. Better suited to thicker veneers and solid, but definitley possible.
Could always use the old blue tape and super glue method or some good two sided tape to attach a guide board that would register off the fence/table for getting a perfectly cut miter. Great demonstration of this tool, though. Great results from what I could see in the video.
@@beralius8584 That’s an excellent suggestion! I always forget about the handiness of blue tape / superglue. Thanks.
Fantastic work as usual
I noticed some technical printouts taped around the job I was wondering what software you use ,I’m quite old school and draw my plans on the drawing board but toying with fusion ( the kids use it at school 😳) or sketch up
Hi Chris, thankyou, you will get on well with either, fusion will set you up better if you ever plan to go CNC route, but SketchUp I find really good for what I do. The layout program is brilliant
@@BradshawJoinery thanks for that prob sketch up I think
I used a Freud lock miter cutter; they’re all the same.
Very nice job. But l have been using locking miter joints for about
15 years. Mostly on furniture, like when I'm using 1/4 sawn oak and see it on all sides.
Cheers James! Yeah they had one when i was an apprentice, I rarely saw it used, but finally in a position to get/need one myself its a brilliant tool
Very interesting cutter, Trend do do some good kit.
Its a great bit of kit, and yeah, their cutter selection is insane
Amazing quality
Thankyou!!
@@BradshawJoinery Good tools will never let you down....But todays timber quality will !!!! It seems to be shit. A friend of mine only uses reclaimed timber as its so much nicer and stable etc
Felder makes their own lock miter cutter, don't they? Have you tried theirs also?
I havent no, there are a few brands, i like the Trend one for the easy setting of the joint tightness with the set screws!
Nice! Unfortunately a very expensive bit of kit if you don't have lots of work for it. Cheers Jim
Yes and no, easily paid for in one job, with the cost of timber at the minute. say 70mm square posts for a kitchen, can use thin stock material for a chunky post.
great job
Cheers Paul!
brilliant job, they are good cutters, mine has rotatable cutters that can be replaced once worn, I hate to play devils advocate but i continue to see joiners working with gloves, please for the love of your fingers and hand, don't wear gloves when using wood working machinery, I have been a joiner for 30 years and have seen too many fingers and hands lost to machines because of gloves, what could be a small nick or cut turns into disaster once a sharp spinning object get a hold of the glove and pulls it in. brilliant job though, sorry to heave added the glove part but you only get 8 fingers and 2 thumbs in your life time at this point. love your work
With the price of solid oak these days that cutter pays for itself on the first job!
Id say its a cheap tool for the amount i'm probably going to use it! Pippy oak corner posts can be made from veneerd Plywood etc. Top notch tool
Beautiful work as usual Oliver, well done 👍
Cheers Brian, many thanks
Precision Work again! Better explain to non East Midlanders what a Cob is 😂
Lol, Cob, Butty, Bap, Roll, Bun,... haha
What glue did you use for the joint assembly
Hi David, I used Wood Weld PU 30 minute
Hi mate what’s the name of the laser you are using?
Huepar 6141g huepar so4cg or hilti pm40mg depending on which one it was
Which glue did you use the join the boards together ?
Construction chemicals wood weld
I bet you could do this with dominoes and a mitered rip cut, but I would MUCH RATHER use that spindle cutter!
Cheers Luke, yes thats a good method, make sure you undercut the mitre by 0.5 degree so to clamps tight at the corner all way round. The idea of the cutter though is the glue surface area and the fact you can clamp it across the face (easy) rather than across the mitre (hard)
Do trend have the same router bit for the half inch trend router?
There are some.links in the description for the router bits, trade and professional versions
@@BradshawJoinery cheers. I’m now a subscriber, great channel.
I do a similar process but use a corner tongue with a bevel
Nice one Peter, that'll work! Is the tongue at 45 or 90 degrees?
What glue did you use?
I used PU Glue 30 minute wood weld
Shame about the cob but the job looks amazing, well done.
Haha yeah! Cheers matey