Hello, Can you help? I have bought my first camera as R50 With 18-45mm kit lens + 50mm f1.8 lens. I didn’t like kit lens much as my iphone 13 pro pictures were better. And I really liked 50mm lens for great portrait. But when i went to London last week I could capture most of the places properly as i was not able to fit both subject and background like London eye or big ben in one frame. I had to move bit far to capture both. Now i have ordered 16mm 2.8 and 28mm 2.8 and I’m travelling to barcelona and rome next week. Can you suggest me which lens carry to capture the iconic places with me and family ? Thanks in advance.
Nice kit! With the R50, I would recommend either carrying both the 16mm and the 50mm, or only the 28mm. In the first option, the 16 will work really well for architecture and wider portraits where you want the background in frame (plus it will be wide enough for selfies), while the 50 will give you decent reach to snap close portraits or detail shots. If you choose to only bring the 28mm, you’ll have an awesome middle of the road lens that can capture most architecture/landscape shots, while still being long enough to avoid much distortion on portraits- though you wont have much reach if you want to get detail shots. In the end, all these lenses are so small and light, i would even recommend bringing all three- but it totally depends on your needs. Maybe travel with all three but try out different daily carries while leaving the rest of the lenses at the hotel room. I find that restricting my focal length choices enables me to be more creative with shots, which is a lot of fun! Have a great trip, and safe travels!
Full-frame cameras like the Canon R6 generally boast better low-light performance because the sensor is bigger and can gather more light. It will also be important for you to have a lens that’s got a wide aperture (f/1.8 or below) if you want the cleanest shots without sacrificing the shutter speed necessary to capture a moving plane without blur
@mas_kentungs2 the R10 and R50 have equal low light performance because their sensors are exactly the same, though you may benefit from the greater burst ability of the R10 if the planes are moving fast :)
Planning to get an R10....but I am still a beginner and the information out there is kind of overwhelming. I just want to use the camera for vacation and family. But that doesnt mean that I want them to come out boring. I am an artist ( i paint) so I want some style and flair in my fotos too. Which lens is the best to get, if you don't mind answering? Also, are filters more important than grading, and a good editor?
If you want to save a lot of hassle, go for a ZOOM. I've been using them for 40 years. Sure there are pros and cons, but if you want to concentrate on the artistic / composition and not on a heap of lens options, one zoom may do it for you. A quick twist and you change the focal length. Quick and easy to take different shots at different focal lengths and compare after. I have the Canon RF 24-240 on an RP. Excellent - for me. Travel and family is my area too. Underrated by many. Only lens I use on that body. Have R50 with 100-400 for very long shots. If you use the jpegs only, the camera will do lens corrections in the body. The jpegs need little if any corrections in editing. Can be used on APS-C / R10 and still be price competitive for what it is and what's around. There is also a RF 24-105. Normal and expensive L versions. Seems that's dearer than the above because of larger max aperture and maybe better glass. Technically the normal version should be sharper than the RF 24-240, but I'm not convinced. The RF-S lens range was very restricted. No third party allowed. Seems Canon now working on more RF-S lenses. Maybe get an R10 with an RF-S 18-45 kit lens included. Can be cheaper than body only! Then, after you've used that for a while, you can worry about whether you need something of better quality and/or longer focal length. Note: I would NOT pay the RRP for that lens on its own. Only get it in a kit deal. Otherwise, you might get a 'never used' one for a third of its RRP. As for style and flair - that's in your hands and not in the camera. Even phone cameras can (be used to) produce excellent style and flair. I've seen them! I'd suggest a lens hood (JJC are cheaper and fine) for all but the 18-45. The front element is buried deep enough for most situations. Hoods can cut out side light and can 'save' a dropped lens. Been there and done that - twice! Either no filter or a lens protection filter. So many cheap (Corel, Adobe elements, etc) and free editors have lots of filters and effects. Much easier to use them than fiddle about when taking a shot. Only exception might be a circular polarizer for water shots to cut glare and 'see though' the water.
@@SpectrumIMBriż Canon don't allow any third party lens makers for the R series. pity. Canon didn't have many RF-S lenses but are now bring them out. That RF-S 18-150 sounds great. Reviews 3 to 4 star. But when you look at the reviews, they usually compare them to 'primes' and zooms at a much higher cost. Lots of pixel peeper reviews use the CRAW images to analyze. R series Canon bodies do lens corrections automatically in the camera - but only for jpegs (6-8MP images) . If you're thinking CRAW (15-20MP), you probably should not be considering the R10 or R50 anyway. My jpegs are very good straight up out of the camera. My Tamron EF-S 18-270 (bought 2012) didn't rate well with the pundits but did with me and others I met. However, a crop on my RF + 24-240 on the RP beat my 600D + Tamron. So you might get away with a crop instead of needing something longer. Have a look at Ken Rockwell's review. He's pretty good and fair. Looks as good as my RF 24-240 on RP FF and about the same equivalent range. For him to rate it well means it's good. Lots of sample pix there. Bet the box price is a good discount on their separate prices and the way to go. Good luck!
@@johnwinter6061 know that, but what's other choice then in similar price? Sony, Fuji? Every camera on this level probably has some pros and cons... That's why it's so hard to decide
@@SpectrumIMBriż Yep, they are all similar. Pluses and minuses. Personal preferences. Bit like car brands. Apple v Android. I always wanted Nikon. My first SLR was a Ricoh Singlex. Simply a cost issue for a school kid. Then a Pentax Spotmatic 35mm film. Great camera with zoom. Next was 2 digitals (Olympus 3MP and Fuji 6MP) in their early days. Then a Canon 600D DSLR in 2012. I think the Canon was a bit cheaper and there were more third party lenses made for it. So I bought a Tamron 18-270 for it. Loved it. I had used Tamron zooms before and liked them. My Nikon never happened. I'm a biased Canon guy. I love the colour. Back in 2012 Nikon colour wasn't as good in the lower end price range. Don't know now. Remember it's not just about the camera. The idiot behind decides whether it takes good shots. I won best in show with a 'portrait' grab shot in the street using that Singlex (35mm / FF film) with a 55mm lens. My posed portraits - with the same camera - well . . . I don't know about the other brands but the Canon colour and in camera lens correction for jpegs are winners for me. Being able to get reasonably priced Canon glass is great. I probably also stuck with Canon because I know it's layout, etc. Just like people stick with Apple or Android to avoid two learning curves. Finally these days Canon seems to have won over the press and professionals more than others. For whatever reason. But the R50 and other like brands are not what they use. Some pay $20,000 to $30,000 for their gear. However, the technology they used 10 years ago (sensors, focusing, etc) is now appearing in the lower end models. The R50 is a perfect example of that, especially the focusing system. See if you can find a shop which will let you try out. Mine lets me go outside the shop for 10-15 minutes with my own memory card. Then have a look at home. Canon direct has some stores where you can play around with a lot of their gear. Mine is 600Km away so not much use to me! Last not least. I've never learnt how to use all of a digital camera's options and features! Mainly auto for me with occasional outside flash fillin setting.
This. I have R50 and handle is too small. I will change it to R7 II or R10 II when those are released next year. I like small size but handle is too smal it could be bigger without making the camera any bigger
I've added a cheap full 'skin' from AliExpress to my R50. Solved the too small body issue. Can come with the RF-S 18-45 kit lens. That's 27 wide in FF. IQ? Not sure. The advantages of the R10 were not important to me. Eg Video not of importance to me. The R50 is the later release. I'm sure that gave it later / better software and focus system. Consider the RF 24-240 for both APS-C and FF bodies! (My main camera is the RP. )
Hi, Can you tell me please how it's RP overall? I cannot decide what to buy, R50 or R10 because i have a discount of almost 200euros versus RP. My first decision was the EOS RP. Thanks. 🙏
@@Alex_Roma87 The short answer is it depends on what you want to do. Eg Video v shot. Subject matter. Time available to take shots. Got the RP 2 years. Love it despite some shortcomings that don't worry / bother me at all. FF at a reasonable price was the main attraction. Mirrorless had me close to the line and the RF 24-240 pushed me over the line. Got RP + RF 24-240 zoom kit for about 25% off RRP. Great one lens travel grab shot camera - which is what I mostly do. Bought the R50 a few months ago. Haven't done much with it. Bought it for the odd long distance shot. Got the R50 with the 18-45 lens for a bit less than RRP for the body alone. There's also a twin lens kit. Don't know much about the lenses. I added my existing RF 100-400 to the R50. Price That price difference seems about right. (Same for Australia where I am). Unless you shop around for kits (body + lens) being discounted. They come up. You might get some tax / duty free off if you are travelling overseas (We can buy up to 30 days in advance at any shop and get our 10% GST back). Don't buy overseas. (Within EU might be Ok - don't know). EBAY, airport or otherwise. Many issues. Watch out for locals selling 'grey import' models. Overseas ones not covered by local manufacturer warranties. FF (eg RP) v APS-C (eg R50 and R10) Heaps of videos everywhere on that argument. What used to apply to mirrored DSLRs is pretty much history for mirrorless. The gap has decreased considerably and there is now a blurring between them. Bit like 6 cylinder car v 4 cylinder cars. Depends upon specs! Remember F1 are 4 cylinder and maybe 2000cc ? I think all R series Canon bodies do in camera lens corrections for jpegs. (Think it's auto detect lens. Otherwise just go into setup.) The IQ is great straight out of the camera. Video RP is not really in the race. R10 seems to be popular. R50 has some later technology v R10. Not my area of expertise for more comment. Photo I chose R50 as my second / occasional camera for long shots with RF 100-400 For photos, it has later / better technology than v R10. Some of it's better than the RP! I could have got the R10 body only, discounted for same price, but for me and what I do, the R50 was better. Generally a full frame will be better than APS-C. But that's now changing too. There's a bit of blurring. Just look at prices. Some APS-C bodies are dearer than the lower end of FF bodies! APS-C used to mean much cheaper lenses. With mirrorless, that's changing too. Especially Canon RF 24-240 and RF100-400 (I have both). Those compete with mirrored APS-C lenses on both price and IQ despite being FF lenses. (It's cheaper to make mirrorless lenses than mirrored lenses of the same specs.) Gives you an option to add a FF body later on and keep the lenses! I had a Canon 600D (18MP APS-C) with Tamron 18-270 for 10 years. Loved it. At 50mm, it was better than the Canon 50mm 'prime' I bought (cheap version - not L version). Compared that with the RP + 24-240 before buying the RP. The RP (26MP FF) kit won hands down on all fronts. Eg A crop from the RP was better than my old kit at 270 on APS-C (=400+mm equivalent) ! Yes, I love my RP kit. It's my 'go to'. Maybe just as much because I have the 24-240 'permanently' attached. Regardless, it still comes down to what you want to do. Eg My RP + 24-240 is excellent for travel grab shots. It does a lot more too. If you want wildlife, then it's probably an APS-C with high continuous shot rate + 100-400/500 zoom or 600 fixed for that. Not my area. Try Simon d'Entremont. Lenses Currently Canon does not allow third party R series lenses. That may change. The three I have are very reasonably priced for what they are. There's a 24-105 (plain and L series?) I think - know nothing about them. Too short for me! Otherwise, hmm . . . People rave about Canon L series lenses. Some cost more than a car! Ok if it's your job with tax deduction. Otherwise just for the annual holiday its not viable. Canon have a reasonable range of RF (FF) lens options. The RF-S (APS-C) range was a bit scant but seems to now be expanding. RF and RF-S have the same mount etc. So, like me, you can use an RF on an APS-C body. (Yeah, I hear the purists yelling foul!) And finally The person behind the camera. Doesn't matter what you get if you don't have an eye for what makes a great shot. Eg You can have the best portrait lens wide open for high isolation, but still take a dud. Best portraits tell a story. Just look at Time and National Geographic. Don't need a portrait lens for those. My award winner (best in show all categories) portrait was taken on 35mm film with a Ricoh 55mm lens! It was a grab shot in the street! I've seen some great shots from phone cameras too. They've come a LONG way and eliminated the old compact digitals. Ask your shop if they have demo models you can try out. Mine lets me take it out of the shop and into the street for 10-15 minutes. I took my own APS-C gear and two memory cards so I could analyze the shots after on a 'same shot' basis. Comparing online ones is a good start, but you are restricted by the website resolution restrictions and your screen resolution. With your own shots you can print off (another resolution issue - use highest DPI!) parts and compare. If you do go for the R50, make sure you buy a cheap 'skin' (eg AliExpress) for it. It's just too small to grip properly. I found myself accidently hitting buttons. The skin fixed that. For me, it's still the RP for IQ.
@@Alex_Roma87 Forgot Low light / flash RP has no flash. It has shot shoe for Canon Speedlight. Not cheap. Bought one and highly impressed with the depth of filed with same exposure. Great! But you may not need flash. FF is better than APS-C in low light. I've found shots inside a house acceptable without flash. R50 has a sort of hot shoe It's Canon's new style. You need an adapter depending upon what you use it for! But it does have a built in flash. Nothing serious but if it's like my old 600D, it's good for daylight shadow fill-in , etc at 10-15' or 1 to 5 metres.
How does this video have so little likes. You deserve more. AMAZING review and thanks a lot!!!
Much appreciated! Glad you liked it :)
Hello, Can you help?
I have bought my first camera as R50 With 18-45mm kit lens + 50mm f1.8 lens. I didn’t like kit lens much as my iphone 13 pro pictures were better. And I really liked 50mm lens for great portrait. But when i went to London last week I could capture most of the places properly as i was not able to fit both subject and background like London eye or big ben in one frame. I had to move bit far to capture both. Now i have ordered 16mm 2.8 and 28mm 2.8 and I’m travelling to barcelona and rome next week. Can you suggest me which lens carry to capture the iconic places with me and family ? Thanks in advance.
Nice kit! With the R50, I would recommend either carrying both the 16mm and the 50mm, or only the 28mm.
In the first option, the 16 will work really well for architecture and wider portraits where you want the background in frame (plus it will be wide enough for selfies), while the 50 will give you decent reach to snap close portraits or detail shots.
If you choose to only bring the 28mm, you’ll have an awesome middle of the road lens that can capture most architecture/landscape shots, while still being long enough to avoid much distortion on portraits- though you wont have much reach if you want to get detail shots.
In the end, all these lenses are so small and light, i would even recommend bringing all three- but it totally depends on your needs. Maybe travel with all three but try out different daily carries while leaving the rest of the lenses at the hotel room. I find that restricting my focal length choices enables me to be more creative with shots, which is a lot of fun!
Have a great trip, and safe travels!
@@JosephMartin great thanks 🤩
Great comparison dude!
Thanks for the video, thats exactly the comparison I wanted to see
Glad it was helpful!
I'm still confused, i want to take photos of plane, and i want to do night spotting, which camera that is good for night photography?
Full-frame cameras like the Canon R6 generally boast better low-light performance because the sensor is bigger and can gather more light. It will also be important for you to have a lens that’s got a wide aperture (f/1.8 or below) if you want the cleanest shots without sacrificing the shutter speed necessary to capture a moving plane without blur
@@JosephMartin umm i forgot to mentioning R10 or R5, which one is the best for what i have been explained?
@mas_kentungs2 the R10 and R50 have equal low light performance because their sensors are exactly the same, though you may benefit from the greater burst ability of the R10 if the planes are moving fast :)
@@JosephMartin thank you!
You've chosen one of the most challenging situations. That means expensive gear for the best results. Full frame usually better in low light.
Planning to get an R10....but I am still a beginner and the information out there is kind of overwhelming.
I just want to use the camera for vacation and family. But that doesnt mean that I want them to come out boring. I am an artist ( i paint) so I want some style and flair in my fotos too.
Which lens is the best to get, if you don't mind answering?
Also, are filters more important than grading, and a good editor?
If you want to save a lot of hassle, go for a ZOOM. I've been using them for 40 years. Sure there are pros and cons, but if you want to concentrate on the artistic / composition and not on a heap of lens options, one zoom may do it for you. A quick twist and you change the focal length. Quick and easy to take different shots at different focal lengths and compare after.
I have the Canon RF 24-240 on an RP. Excellent - for me. Travel and family is my area too. Underrated by many. Only lens I use on that body. Have R50 with 100-400 for very long shots.
If you use the jpegs only, the camera will do lens corrections in the body. The jpegs need little if any corrections in editing. Can be used on APS-C / R10 and still be price competitive for what it is and what's around.
There is also a RF 24-105. Normal and expensive L versions. Seems that's dearer than the above because of larger max aperture and maybe better glass. Technically the normal version should be sharper than the RF 24-240, but I'm not convinced.
The RF-S lens range was very restricted. No third party allowed. Seems Canon now working on more RF-S lenses.
Maybe get an R10 with an RF-S 18-45 kit lens included. Can be cheaper than body only! Then, after you've used that for a while, you can worry about whether you need something of better quality and/or longer focal length. Note: I would NOT pay the RRP for that lens on its own. Only get it in a kit deal. Otherwise, you might get a 'never used' one for a third of its RRP.
As for style and flair - that's in your hands and not in the camera. Even phone cameras can (be used to) produce excellent style and flair. I've seen them!
I'd suggest a lens hood (JJC are cheaper and fine) for all but the 18-45. The front element is buried deep enough for most situations. Hoods can cut out side light and can 'save' a dropped lens. Been there and done that - twice!
Either no filter or a lens protection filter. So many cheap (Corel, Adobe elements, etc) and free editors have lots of filters and effects. Much easier to use them than fiddle about when taking a shot. Only exception might be a circular polarizer for water shots to cut glare and 'see though' the water.
18-150 lens can be also bought now as kit lens to r50 andr10 and I think of that one also
@@SpectrumIMBriż
Canon don't allow any third party lens makers for the R series. pity.
Canon didn't have many RF-S lenses but are now bring them out.
That RF-S 18-150 sounds great. Reviews 3 to 4 star. But when you look at the reviews, they usually compare them to 'primes' and zooms at a much higher cost. Lots of pixel peeper reviews use the CRAW images to analyze. R series Canon bodies do lens corrections automatically in the camera - but only for jpegs (6-8MP images) . If you're thinking CRAW (15-20MP), you probably should not be considering the R10 or R50 anyway. My jpegs are very good straight up out of the camera.
My Tamron EF-S 18-270 (bought 2012) didn't rate well with the pundits but did with me and others I met. However, a crop on my RF + 24-240 on the RP beat my 600D + Tamron. So you might get away with a crop instead of needing something longer.
Have a look at Ken Rockwell's review. He's pretty good and fair. Looks as good as my RF 24-240 on RP FF and about the same equivalent range. For him to rate it well means it's good. Lots of sample pix there.
Bet the box price is a good discount on their separate prices and the way to go.
Good luck!
@@johnwinter6061 know that, but what's other choice then in similar price? Sony, Fuji? Every camera on this level probably has some pros and cons... That's why it's so hard to decide
@@SpectrumIMBriż Yep, they are all similar. Pluses and minuses. Personal preferences. Bit like car brands. Apple v Android.
I always wanted Nikon. My first SLR was a Ricoh Singlex. Simply a cost issue for a school kid. Then a Pentax Spotmatic 35mm film. Great camera with zoom. Next was 2 digitals (Olympus 3MP and Fuji 6MP) in their early days. Then a Canon 600D DSLR in 2012. I think the Canon was a bit cheaper and there were more third party lenses made for it. So I bought a Tamron 18-270 for it. Loved it. I had used Tamron zooms before and liked them. My Nikon never happened.
I'm a biased Canon guy. I love the colour. Back in 2012 Nikon colour wasn't as good in the lower end price range. Don't know now.
Remember it's not just about the camera. The idiot behind decides whether it takes good shots. I won best in show with a 'portrait' grab shot in the street using that Singlex (35mm / FF film) with a 55mm lens. My posed portraits - with the same camera - well . . .
I don't know about the other brands but the Canon colour and in camera lens correction for jpegs are winners for me. Being able to get reasonably priced Canon glass is great. I probably also stuck with Canon because I know it's layout, etc. Just like people stick with Apple or Android to avoid two learning curves.
Finally these days Canon seems to have won over the press and professionals more than others. For whatever reason. But the R50 and other like brands are not what they use. Some pay $20,000 to $30,000 for their gear. However, the technology they used 10 years ago (sensors, focusing, etc) is now appearing in the lower end models. The R50 is a perfect example of that, especially the focusing system.
See if you can find a shop which will let you try out. Mine lets me go outside the shop for 10-15 minutes with my own memory card. Then have a look at home. Canon direct has some stores where you can play around with a lot of their gear. Mine is 600Km away so not much use to me!
Last not least. I've never learnt how to use all of a digital camera's options and features! Mainly auto for me with occasional outside flash fillin setting.
Just subscribed, this was the most useful video and it really helped me make my decision.
so glad I could help! thanks for the sub 🙌
Overall ergonomics was the deal breaker for me, as the R10 feels more like a real camera than the toyish R50.
For sure!
This. I have R50 and handle is too small. I will change it to R7 II or R10 II when those are released next year. I like small size but handle is too smal it could be bigger without making the camera any bigger
i expect one day to see you on NatGeo or something lol
no 4k 60 is a deal breaker for me
It definitely banishes the R50 to the hobbyist realm
i hope ned cooperated with his pcture being taken. 😄
Ned was a very good subject
I've added a cheap full 'skin' from AliExpress to my R50. Solved the too small body issue.
Can come with the RF-S 18-45 kit lens. That's 27 wide in FF. IQ? Not sure.
The advantages of the R10 were not important to me. Eg Video not of importance to me. The R50 is the later release. I'm sure that gave it later / better software and focus system.
Consider the RF 24-240 for both APS-C and FF bodies!
(My main camera is the RP. )
Hi,
Can you tell me please how it's RP overall?
I cannot decide what to buy, R50 or R10 because i have a discount of almost 200euros versus RP.
My first decision was the EOS RP. Thanks. 🙏
@@Alex_Roma87
The short answer is it depends on what you want to do. Eg Video v shot. Subject matter. Time available to take shots.
Got the RP 2 years. Love it despite some shortcomings that don't worry / bother me at all. FF at a reasonable price was the main attraction. Mirrorless had me close to the line and the RF 24-240 pushed me over the line. Got RP + RF 24-240 zoom kit for about 25% off RRP. Great one lens travel grab shot camera - which is what I mostly do.
Bought the R50 a few months ago. Haven't done much with it. Bought it for the odd long distance shot. Got the R50 with the 18-45 lens for a bit less than RRP for the body alone. There's also a twin lens kit. Don't know much about the lenses. I added my existing RF 100-400 to the R50.
Price
That price difference seems about right. (Same for Australia where I am). Unless you shop around for kits (body + lens) being discounted. They come up. You might get some tax / duty free off if you are travelling overseas (We can buy up to 30 days in advance at any shop and get our 10% GST back). Don't buy overseas. (Within EU might be Ok - don't know). EBAY, airport or otherwise. Many issues. Watch out for locals selling 'grey import' models. Overseas ones not covered by local manufacturer warranties.
FF (eg RP) v APS-C (eg R50 and R10)
Heaps of videos everywhere on that argument. What used to apply to mirrored DSLRs is pretty much history for mirrorless. The gap has decreased considerably and there is now a blurring between them. Bit like 6 cylinder car v 4 cylinder cars. Depends upon specs! Remember F1 are 4 cylinder and maybe 2000cc ?
I think all R series Canon bodies do in camera lens corrections for jpegs. (Think it's auto detect lens. Otherwise just go into setup.) The IQ is great straight out of the camera.
Video
RP is not really in the race. R10 seems to be popular. R50 has some later technology v R10. Not my area of expertise for more comment.
Photo
I chose R50 as my second / occasional camera for long shots with RF 100-400
For photos, it has later / better technology than v R10. Some of it's better than the RP! I could have got the R10 body only, discounted for same price, but for me and what I do, the R50 was better.
Generally a full frame will be better than APS-C. But that's now changing too. There's a bit of blurring. Just look at prices. Some APS-C bodies are dearer than the lower end of FF bodies!
APS-C used to mean much cheaper lenses. With mirrorless, that's changing too. Especially Canon RF 24-240 and RF100-400 (I have both). Those compete with mirrored APS-C lenses on both price and IQ despite being FF lenses. (It's cheaper to make mirrorless lenses than mirrored lenses of the same specs.) Gives you an option to add a FF body later on and keep the lenses!
I had a Canon 600D (18MP APS-C) with Tamron 18-270 for 10 years. Loved it. At 50mm, it was better than the Canon 50mm 'prime' I bought (cheap version - not L version). Compared that with the RP + 24-240 before buying the RP. The RP (26MP FF) kit won hands down on all fronts. Eg A crop from the RP was better than my old kit at 270 on APS-C (=400+mm equivalent) ! Yes, I love my RP kit. It's my 'go to'. Maybe just as much because I have the 24-240 'permanently' attached.
Regardless, it still comes down to what you want to do.
Eg My RP + 24-240 is excellent for travel grab shots. It does a lot more too.
If you want wildlife, then it's probably an APS-C with high continuous shot rate + 100-400/500 zoom or 600 fixed for that. Not my area. Try Simon d'Entremont.
Lenses
Currently Canon does not allow third party R series lenses. That may change. The three I have are very reasonably priced for what they are. There's a 24-105 (plain and L series?) I think - know nothing about them. Too short for me! Otherwise, hmm . . . People rave about Canon L series lenses. Some cost more than a car! Ok if it's your job with tax deduction. Otherwise just for the annual holiday its not viable. Canon have a reasonable range of RF (FF) lens options. The RF-S (APS-C) range was a bit scant but seems to now be expanding. RF and RF-S have the same mount etc. So, like me, you can use an RF on an APS-C body. (Yeah, I hear the purists yelling foul!)
And finally
The person behind the camera. Doesn't matter what you get if you don't have an eye for what makes a great shot. Eg You can have the best portrait lens wide open for high isolation, but still take a dud. Best portraits tell a story. Just look at Time and National Geographic. Don't need a portrait lens for those. My award winner (best in show all categories) portrait was taken on 35mm film with a Ricoh 55mm lens! It was a grab shot in the street! I've seen some great shots from phone cameras too. They've come a LONG way and eliminated the old compact digitals.
Ask your shop if they have demo models you can try out. Mine lets me take it out of the shop and into the street for 10-15 minutes. I took my own APS-C gear and two memory cards so I could analyze the shots after on a 'same shot' basis. Comparing online ones is a good start, but you are restricted by the website resolution restrictions and your screen resolution. With your own shots you can print off (another resolution issue - use highest DPI!) parts and compare.
If you do go for the R50, make sure you buy a cheap 'skin' (eg AliExpress) for it. It's just too small to grip properly. I found myself accidently hitting buttons. The skin fixed that.
For me, it's still the RP for IQ.
@@Alex_Roma87 I did. I can's see it! Let me know.
@@Alex_Roma87 Forgot
Low light / flash
RP has no flash.
It has shot shoe for Canon Speedlight. Not cheap. Bought one and highly impressed with the depth of filed with same exposure. Great!
But you may not need flash. FF is better than APS-C in low light. I've found shots inside a house acceptable without flash.
R50 has a sort of hot shoe
It's Canon's new style. You need an adapter depending upon what you use it for!
But it does have a built in flash. Nothing serious but if it's like my old 600D, it's good for daylight shadow fill-in , etc at 10-15' or 1 to 5 metres.
Ah . . I see it now. All good.
If you're gonna choose the R10 over the R50, go for the R8.
I love your content after the review of the r8 you deserve a subscribe
Thank you so much!