So, the API and automakers are really worried about the zinc and phosphorus because of their pocketbooks. They are not concerned about the benefits that zinc and phosphorus give you added to motor oil. They are afraid that they might have to pay out for a warrantied catalytic convertor if a little zinc or phosphorus helps give it an early death. It all comes down to dollars.
Great information video! Have you ever noticed when a oil lab tec takes a oil sample form a new bottle for testing he shakes it first? Why....most of the additives have settled to the bottom of the container, especially if on the shelf for any length of time. I always shake every container before pouring into any engine. Thanks
I've seen settling many times. Looks like fine brown paste at the bottom of the container. ZF of Germany says "shake well" on their transmission fluid. One of the few that still puts this on the label.
Ahhh man love this topic all I tell people is whatever floats your boat buy whatever makes you happy. Ill just keep doin my regular oil changes at 3k regardless if it's synthetic or not trust it does wonders
I use redline on my sti and it feels so smooth and motul for gear oil👌🏽 Dont recommend any other. I tried others but they burn faster and have a stronger nasty smell when I gas it.
Having used redline, on a long run 7-8k miles, oil will come out great looking after the 3rd change. 1st it looks like it took all the accumulated shite, 2nd looks a lot better, 3rd it comes out clean and after that is the same over and over again.
I thought I knew something about synthetic oil before viewing this video…the knowledge of what different oil manufacturers are making as far as group III, IV and V base stocks and what really is the highest quality is explained succinctly in this video. My approach and what to really focus on when choosing an engine oil has been forever changed for the better. What do you think of the base stocks made from natural gas and how do they compare to PAO or Ester based stocks?
Thanks for the comment! Ester based stocks (group V) are the best, and tolerate heat the best, but they are way more expensive. Since they are inherently thinner, you are also more prone to issues with consumption. For new cars or race cars, Ester oils are a good option. For most other cars, the PAO group 4 stocks are a solid option. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Rotella 5w40 t6 from Walmart has 1500ppm zinc and phosphorus and boron as well and reasonably priced. Harley Davidson 20w50, honestly some of the best oil IV ever seen expensive but my dad had a case and I did an oil change in my Subaru. Instant difference and after 5k miles looked brand new. Drained it out of the SUbie and dumped it straight into the tractor. And doing research has the highest content of zink, phosphorus and boron. Best 50 weight oil on the market.
Roy Giller just based on price and understanding of product line, amsoil stands apart from the other 2. Have heard of bad reports from Redline and Motul (8100) , but never with Amsoil
You’re absolutely correct. If I personally were to rate them: 1. Motul 2. Redline 3. Amsoil . Don’t get me wrong they’re all good and would be my three top choices.
Motul 8100 line are almost all HC group 3 and somes examples have a bit of PAO... Not a bad oil but nothing superb too, if you want a true synthetic RedLine and Amsoil (not euro version) they have more than 50% of PAO or Ester. The 300v is a ester oil but nothing compare to RL.
You guys should check out the BG 5/30 full synthetic. I use that and their MOA110 and don't experience nearly as much oil consumption or blow by as I did with other oils in my MY8-14 sti. (mild build, track days every other month or so)
Interesting..in my neck of the woods zinc was removed from all engine oils with the exception of Diesel oil. So if you need zinc for whatever reason, you just bought diesel oil. Now after a bit of lobbying from owners of vintage and veteran cars we now have Synthetic engine oil that is labelled "Full Zinc anti-wear additive package" .Although there is nowhere on the bottle or on their web site that tell you what percentage of zinc = full zinc.
Thanks for the comment Barry. It is definitely getting harder to find oils with a higher zinc content these days. I'd recommend looking for Virgin Oil Analysis of any oil your a considering, or you can buy a quart and send a sample off yourself if you are curious. Once you have that information, and if you can compare the same information to an older oil that you had good luck with, you can see how close it is for zinc concentration. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
I recently switched my cvt fluid over to triax cvt just to see how it likes it. They claim its a group 4/5 blend 100% synthetic. The company hasnt been around all that long compared to the typical choices only a little over 20 years. Anyway, figured if my transmission hates it ill just go back to castrol. On day 2 now after a full change over and what a difference! You can literally feel the increase in performance. I always keep my cvt fluid changed and fresh. Plus the filters. So the castrol that was in there wasnt even that old when I drained it. The car now wants to hold peak torque longer, mpg has increased, the smoothness is insane. Feels less gritty if that makes sense lol? Still though...I find it hard to believe you can get a 5 qrt container of triax cvt thats PAO / Ester 100% synthetic for 44 bucks! Amsoil is something like $70-80 for only a gallon. I know triax isnt popular, and maybe thats why its inexpensive? Hell ive only known about them for a week now. Anyone else have thoughts on them?
ENEOS Sustina have group VI synthetic base. Their viscosity super stable, especially easy to know the different with Valvoline Synpower I used before in winter. My car operate like the engine already at operating temperature but temp gauge still at all the way down C.
Eneos sustina at least the 5W40 C3, doesn´t have any special additive or base, is just a GTL base III+ (Like Shell Ultra) with a normal mid saps additive pack.
Thanks for your question. We really like the Motul 8100 5w40 X-Cess because it has the full SAPS additive package. I would also recommend Redline 5W40 as well. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Also, because there is much less chance for aeration/windage with little to no detergents/dispersants in the oil, especially at the high revs racing engines see constantly.
I'd say that they are available, just not as widely available as the brands that first come to mind when you think of oil. And in part, I'd say that this is because many people just don't put much thought into what oil they put in their car, and therefor a more expensive option just doesn't move like the less expensive oil. Thanks for watching!
Hey I was looking at the Motul stuff and was wonder what the main difference is between the Eco and the X-cess was. I have a 19 STI and it burns the oem oil like mad, but doesn’t burn better oils I’ve tried (royal purple, ams oil) I change every 3000 so oil life isn’t my concern
Thanks for your question. For the 8100, Motul has a different name for each weight and formulation. In the case of the Eco-Nergy and the X-Cess, it is simply a difference between the weights (5w-30 and 5w-40). Some of the other 8100's do have different formulations, and there you would want to look at the SAPS they contain. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
whats the diff between red line euro & full synth red line? I have a vintage 2.5 Turbo dodge with flat tappet engine. rebuilt with 6K mi on it. getting a lil more oil dilution than im comfy with.... (nothing obviously wrong with engine bw). have been using Mobil 1 but as you say API influence may not work for my situation (no cat here too). maybe time to switch to higher level zinc oil...
The question that im having the most trouble answering is which viscocity. 5w30 or 5w40? Many people use and recommend 5w40 however the vehicle was designed according to subaru for 5w30. Are people just throwing a 40wt in there to account for the higher hths due to all of these resource conserving oils out there? Does subaru just care aboit meeting epa and 40wt truly is better? To my knowledge it all depends on the tolerances etc.. too thick an oil cant properly lubricate an engine.. so far ive decided to stick with 5w30 oils that also have the higher hths ratings and increased zddp like redline. Currently using rp hps 5w30 which has the higher hths and zddp content while maintaining the viscocity in the manual. I tried motul xcess 5w40 and my vehicle DID NOT like it. It pulled timing and dropped my DAM immediately which had my tuner puzzled because thsts the oil they use and recommend the most lol.
The white bottle Red Line 5W-30 is actually slightly MORE viscous in HTHSV rating than some of the lower end of the API viscosity range, labeled as 5W-40s out there!
How do you know which oils are more viscous than others? Other than the weight given? How do can I find out which 5w30 is more viscous than another 5w30 for example?@@nofascistsonmywatch
Sorry that you haven't heard of any of these, but hopefully some of them at least are available. Motul for one is a big international brand. Thanks for watching!
@@mayk3lll where? Super cheap? Auto barn? Bursons? Repco? Really we are so limited in the car scene to get our stock unless you know someone I'm a car enthusiast with about 4 cars and still can't a group to even hang with so I mostly just work on my cars and keep them looking great sounding great running great etc
Is it safe to run 300v in a daily, and for how many miles. I assume it doesn't have as much additives for longevity of oil as normal oils have. I ask because sometimes I like to push it and want the best for my engine. Thank you and great video
The strength of the oil wedge at 300V is 80% hydrocracking 2000 kg.cm2. For Redline oil 5W30 - 98% polyolester - 22 000 kg.sm2! But they won’t tell you that.
From Motul, they say that it is not formulated for long change duration, but I don't know how far you could run it safely. I'll see if I can get any specifics from them about it. They have come out with a new "Sport" oil that is Esther based as well that may be better suited for a 3,000 - 5,000 change interval. For now, I can tell you that Redline will go 5,000 miles no problem, and it is partially Esther based. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
All the money you used in buying the 300V, and switch it out every 5000-7500 miles (assuming you are daily driving with a couple track days a year) only to have to rebuild the engine or transplant eventually....could of bought you perhaps x2 engines.
I’ve been using Motul 300V Competition 5w-40 in my 95 e36 m3 for over two years now. That includes track days and daily driving!!! and I’ve been changing it regularly at about 5k mile intervals . Im about to send in my first oil sample to blackstone labs to see what analysis report we get back on the condition of the oil. They can’t tell me anything about my engine that I’m not already aware of lol but I’m still curious if I was running the ester oil for too many miles? or If it was loosing any wear protection properties? However, now it has come time for another oil change but that stuff is so expensive and money is tight so I’ve decided to switch to a more affordable product line such as, the 8100xcess or 8100 xmaxx or different brand entirely. My options are amsoil/Motul since they are in the same price bracket or going with stuff that can be found off the shelf at most stores and Walmarts. I was looking at the castrol European and the valveoline euro or the mobil 1 euro last night at my local Walmart. I didn’t even know valvoline had made a European formula
@@FlatironsTuning TH-cam really needs to start allowing attachments to be also uploaded in the comments section so I could put up my oil sample test for the 300v for someone else to reference in the future 🤷🏼♂️
Great vid! I currently use Motul 8100 X-Clean + 5w30 on my G37. So far so good, but what's difference bw that and the Xcess and Eco that also come in 5w30?
Thanks for your question. The difference is the additive packages in those oils. For instance, the X-Clean has low SAPS, so low zinc, where the Eco-Nergy has high SAPS, so high zinc. It is just a variance in the blend. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
If you don't have a car like the one behind him, then using a Group 3,4,5 Synthetic over the other wont matter much. All because the phosphourous component of zinc is being reduced, doesn't mean its not being substituted with Moly or Boron. Like if you have a Group 5 Ester base oil, there is no point in having loads of Calcium detergent in it as they both clean. Esters are being surpassed by Alkylated Napthalene as it is a true Synthetic Group 5+ and does not compete with the anti wear additives. PAO is great but ends up getting loaded with mineral oil anyway just to mix the additives and detergents as it is a poor cleaner on its own.
Thanks for your question John. I'm familiar with Liquimoly, but we haven't stocked it in a while. If you are curious about it, I'd recommend you send a sample out and see how it compares to a few other oils. Thanks for watching!
In LM only the Synthoil line are truly PAO oils. The Mos2 additive you can find in some oils in organic form is not a big deal, but the Ceratec is much much better.
This was a solid video. Really gets some new information out there on TH-cam. Since the FA20DIT has naturally occurring carbon build up on it's intake valves from its EGR system, would a low SAPS or high SAPS oil be the preferred choice? I've been using Eneos 5w30 for the time being, and am unsure if I should switch to an 8100 or say with Eneos.
Thanks for your question! That is a tricky one. The first thing that I'd recommend is to do both a new (VOA) and used analysis on the oil that you are using. See how it is effected in your change interval, and see if you can get a measure of the volatility of the oil. And if you want to switch to a new oil, do the same with the new sample. See how the analysis compare, and make your decision on which to stick with once you have that information. Best of luck!
I suggest using a top cylinder oil/ cleaner that keeps the valves clean and lubricates the top piston ring. Lucas Engine Treatment works very good and so does Redline Fuel Treatment. There are many other good ones. Also, install an oil condensator or catch can in the PCV line.. This may eliminate the build up, if the oil from the crankcase is coming through the PCV system and on to the valves.
Thank you for your question. That is definitely a good oil to be using. I don't think that I could say that there is a single best oil really. As long as you are getting good results with that oil, I'd definitely stay with it. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
what are your thoughts on running motul 300v 5w-40 or 5w30 on a stock block ej205 that sees hard use occasionaly? what change intervals would you suggest for it? used to run motul 8100 with change intervals of 3.5k miles
Thanks for your question. The 300V is definitely designed to stand up to high heat and abuse, but it is not designed to last thousands of miles. With 300V you would want to change the oil every couple of months, or at most at 3,000 miles. Ideally sooner than that. If you are going for longer duration than that, I'd say stick with the 8100, or look at Motul Sport which has an Esther base but is designed to run longer than the 300V (at most 5,000 miles). Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning it really helped me! thank you! i will give 300v a try as i am ok with 2,5k-3k oil change intervals. I think it will help maintain a better health of all bottom end bearings than lets say motul 8100. thanks again!
@@FlatironsTuning Ive been using motul 300v in my toyota avensis 1.6 2001 model for 12 years. From 100000klm to 234000klm. When i change it to liqui moly synthoil high teck at 234000, the color of the oil get total black at 2500klm and lost 1 liter at the dip stick. It has a lot of built up the engine from 300v had using. The 300v change it every 10000klm, to long interval for this oil. Thank you very much for the video fl tuning, i really enjoyed watching it!!
Thanks for the question. We have run all of these oils at one time or another with good results. As long as it is a high zinc oil, you should be good. Thanks for your question, and Stay Tuned!
I've been using shell Rotella T6 for the engine and shell spirax S6 for the drivetrain with no issues so far, holds up quite well for smell and sight test between change intervals. I've seen Rotella T6 all over the forums but didn't hear any mention of it in the video. Any personal thoughts on it for long time use?
Thanks for your question. Since it is a diesel oil, we didn't want to go down that road since there is a whole separate discussion of running diesel oil in a gasoline car. That being said, we have done it, and know a lot of people around here that do. But T6 does fall into the same category of oils that have changed formulation. the zinc content has dropped in the last few years, though I don't think quite as much in the gasoline oils. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your comment. We don't have any first-hand experience with Amsoil, so we did not include it in our discussion. Hopefully it was still helpful for you. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I use the amsoil euro 0w40 full saps Wondering about the group they are in ? My guess will be 4 since it says 100% and equals to the same motul ll01 that its there.
Jstar Dhami no motul is, they use esters which have been proven to be the best lubricant for engines due to its polarity which causes it to stick to every piece of metal it comes in contact with
@@thatguy1919 I been searching ( just starting my search) and seeing different opinions. I've been seeing talk about Motul lately. Sounds like it's worth looking into. Where can I find some information on their formula and/or testing ? I will search for it but since I was here I thought I'd ask and maybe save some time. So many oils and opinions, I figured it would be best to look at the data myself. Thanks for any input you can provide for me. Greatly appreciated !
Your opinion is interesting to me because I've seen Royal purple be tested on numerous non-biased TH-cam channels and it consistently ranks in the top three usually after Amsoil and Schafer's. When I had my engine rebuilt, after break-in, I was using a high quality oil but I was unhappy with the level of engine noise that I could hear. I bit the bullet and paid the money for Royal purple HPS since I don't run a cat, and literally upon startup all of the engine noise was gone immediately. I became a firm believer at that point and I've been using Royal Purple since. It strikes the right balance for me between cost and effectiveness.
@@AtalixZero my opinion comes from black rock oil sample lab in Corvallis Oregon and the motor was a 2006 Subaru sti with 380whp and 400ft pounds torque to the wheels may be good at first but once the oil is contaminated with ethanol it breaks down really quick. Rotella t6 5w40 resists fuel dilution really well, obviously amsoil and schafers are great oils by analysis, but rotella is bang for buck the best, and shares similar levels in shaders and amsoil and Harley-Davidson oil in boron, zinc.phospho., Harley oil is actually one of the best on the market, I’m not just saying it cuz the name. The oil analysis with the 20w50 was absolutely amazing oil on the track in my Subaru with oil analysis, it’s just really expensive oil… but the Walmart is my go to break in oil since I change it right after start up, I’m not spending 150 bucks to start up my Subaru and drain the oil after a fresh rebuild thus 3 Walmart super tech oil changes then swap to rotella for daily, then track days or sand dunes I will run Harley 20w50. Since I can get it locally, if I order oil online I get motul 5w40 and again my choices are all based off oil analysis and research. Don’t care what the name is on the bottle.
@@HeidiFegles appreciate the reply. I've never run E85 and never had issues with RP. I did one lab sample months into the car's new motor and the sample came back exactly as expected with the appropriate levels of seen on various reviews channels. Maybe the formula has changed?
@@AtalixZero they change every time they blend it naturally. And go with the analysis over brand anyday. If you run 92 octane pump royal purple does good. Just not as well with ethanol compared to rotella. Ethanol is hard on everything though. Even rotella breaks down and looks like crap after 3000 miles on ethanol running it hard, when royal purple came out I ran it in my crf450 motocross bike with no issues. And I do believe that royal purple is not what it used to be. As is every oil is not what it could be due to the epa forcing people to change the ingredients. That’s the problem the epa forcing change.
Redline has been around a long time. Mostly in speed shops and high performance shops. Motul is from France. A big operation there! Their catalog has pages and pages of different products. The most I have ever seen. They are known for having the "Spec" on the bottle for Ford, Renault, Porche, GM, etc.
That is a difficult question to answer. Many people around her are using Schaeffer's with good results. I'd think that the Motul 8100 and Redline would tolerate the E85 well also. The best advice would be to have your oil tested at your change interval so that you know how it holds up. If the oil you are using is showing signs of contamination or breaking down, then try something else. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks for the advice. It is greatly appreciated. Through your videos I've done alot to the car learning through ya'll, even down to switching my 5 speed trans on my 08 WRX hatch to a 6 speed.
Compare the german highest quality, the USA mineral oil Group 3 (HC), they're call Synthetic but you can not say in Germany. If you using Top fuel , they 're pure additive. not the using real world on the road. The USA maker avoid using Ester cause they can not competitive prices and cost so they add the zinc additive for get low cost, high margin but bad evironment, they don't care.👎🏻
Thanks for the comment. Yes, the standards for what you can call Synthetic Oil is more strict in Europe. That is one of the reasons that folks here in the US prefer European synthetic oil. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
There is no such thing as a synthetic oil. It’s a sales pitch. It is better because the synthetic oil that’s just mineral oil, is filtered so all the oil particles are the same size. This allows for way better lubrication. Regular oil has many different particle sizes and makes it not as consistent for oiling. It’s like riding on a sheet of plywood on golf balls for synthetic oil. And regular oil is like throwing some base balls in their and expecting to roll over them smoothly. All base oil is the same comes from the same place. It’s the small differences in additives that change the brand. Most good oils have boron in it and that helps zink and ohesphorusbwork better
Why should I have to pay a lab to tell me what is in the oil that I am purchasing.? Just like all the ingredients are in the food that we buy to eat, all oil that we purchase should also have all the ingredients that are in that oil we buy to use in our engine, including the base stock it is made from!
So, the API and automakers are really worried about the zinc and phosphorus because of their pocketbooks. They are not concerned about the benefits that zinc and phosphorus give you added to motor oil. They are afraid that they might have to pay out for a warrantied catalytic convertor if a little zinc or phosphorus helps give it an early death. It all comes down to dollars.
Thank you for not calling Group III base stocks synthetic and for covering the API zinc requirements.
Great information video! Have you ever noticed when a oil lab tec takes a oil sample form a new bottle for testing he shakes it first? Why....most of the additives have settled to the bottom of the container, especially if on the shelf for any length of time. I always shake every container before pouring into any engine. Thanks
I've seen settling many times. Looks like fine brown paste at the bottom of the container.
ZF of Germany says "shake well" on their transmission fluid. One of the few that still puts this on the label.
Ahhh man love this topic all I tell people is whatever floats your boat buy whatever makes you happy. Ill just keep doin my regular oil changes at 3k regardless if it's synthetic or not trust it does wonders
waste of time and money and creates more waste and consumption doing changes at 3k..
@@andrewp1998 waste????? IDK where your getting that from but ... Like I said do what ever floats your boat
just save your time.. even conv oil goes 5 k to 7 k.. save money and oil too. just my adv ice. take care
I use redline on my sti and it feels so smooth and motul for gear oil👌🏽 Dont recommend any other. I tried others but they burn faster and have a stronger nasty smell when I gas it.
Hello 1980 is calling, 3000 mile change.
Having used redline, on a long run 7-8k miles, oil will come out great looking after the 3rd change. 1st it looks like it took all the accumulated shite, 2nd looks a lot better, 3rd it comes out clean and after that is the same over and over again.
Polyol ester is highly detergent by its nature...which is why the engine oil was dirty..and got cleaner ...
When you see a car with a Gran turismo sticker on it, you know that you are in the righ place for a review.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Great video. I would add that HTHS is likely the most important spec for any oil. Closely followed by Viscosity Index, KV100 And KV40, then TBN.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
AGREED!
Yet, Lake Speed Jr. NEVER even mentions HTHSV specs in ANY of his videos.
I wonder WHY?!?
I thought I knew something about synthetic oil before viewing this video…the knowledge of what different oil manufacturers are making as far as group III, IV and V base stocks and what really is the highest quality is explained succinctly in this video.
My approach and what to really focus on when choosing an engine oil has been forever changed for the better.
What do you think of the base stocks made from natural gas and how do they compare to PAO or Ester based stocks?
Thanks for the comment! Ester based stocks (group V) are the best, and tolerate heat the best, but they are way more expensive. Since they are inherently thinner, you are also more prone to issues with consumption.
For new cars or race cars, Ester oils are a good option. For most other cars, the PAO group 4 stocks are a solid option.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I prefer using redline in spring/summer, and Motul in Winter, due to the flow and thickness. They r also easy to get in my area
Thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
Best oil video I've seen on TH-cam.
Thanks very much! Stay Tuned!
Rotella 5w40 t6 from Walmart has 1500ppm zinc and phosphorus and boron as well and reasonably priced. Harley Davidson 20w50, honestly some of the best oil IV ever seen expensive but my dad had a case and I did an oil change in my Subaru. Instant difference and after 5k miles looked brand new. Drained it out of the SUbie and dumped it straight into the tractor. And doing research has the highest content of zink, phosphorus and boron. Best 50 weight oil on the market.
You are absolutely right, for me, AMSOIL Signature Series
I agree amsoil is all I run in all my engines atvs car trucks worked them all hard and all preformed flawlessly never a engine failure.
The best oil in my opinion
Amsoil, Redline and Motul are just about the best oils available but are pricey.
Roy Giller just based on price and understanding of product line, amsoil stands apart from the other 2. Have heard of bad reports from Redline and Motul (8100) , but never with Amsoil
@@LoveLikeaHurricane amsoil is inferior to redline and motul
@@ricky55626 RedLine FTW!!!!
You’re absolutely correct. If I personally were to rate them: 1. Motul 2. Redline 3. Amsoil . Don’t get me wrong they’re all good and would be my three top choices.
ricky55626 can you reference independent proof how Amsoil is inferior? Very curious. Thanks.
Motul 8100 line are almost all HC group 3 and somes examples have a bit of PAO... Not a bad oil but nothing superb too, if you want a true synthetic RedLine and Amsoil (not euro version) they have more than 50% of PAO or Ester. The 300v is a ester oil but nothing compare to RL.
You guys should check out the BG 5/30 full synthetic. I use that and their MOA110 and don't experience nearly as much oil consumption or blow by as I did with other oils in my MY8-14 sti. (mild build, track days every other month or so)
Thanks JB. We'll have to check that out.
Extremely helpful and great information. I was just watching some of Lake Speed Jr's videos too. 👍
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Interesting..in my neck of the woods zinc was removed from all engine oils with the exception of Diesel oil. So if you need zinc for whatever reason, you just bought diesel oil. Now after a bit of lobbying from owners of vintage and veteran cars we now have Synthetic engine oil that is labelled "Full Zinc anti-wear additive package" .Although there is nowhere on the bottle or on their web site that tell you what percentage of zinc = full zinc.
Thanks for the comment Barry. It is definitely getting harder to find oils with a higher zinc content these days. I'd recommend looking for Virgin Oil Analysis of any oil your a considering, or you can buy a quart and send a sample off yourself if you are curious.
Once you have that information, and if you can compare the same information to an older oil that you had good luck with, you can see how close it is for zinc concentration.
Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FlatironsTuning how about Triax 5w-50? High zinc and phosphorous
I recently switched my cvt fluid over to triax cvt just to see how it likes it. They claim its a group 4/5 blend 100% synthetic. The company hasnt been around all that long compared to the typical choices only a little over 20 years. Anyway, figured if my transmission hates it ill just go back to castrol. On day 2 now after a full change over and what a difference! You can literally feel the increase in performance. I always keep my cvt fluid changed and fresh. Plus the filters. So the castrol that was in there wasnt even that old when I drained it. The car now wants to hold peak torque longer, mpg has increased, the smoothness is insane. Feels less gritty if that makes sense lol? Still though...I find it hard to believe you can get a 5 qrt container of triax cvt thats PAO / Ester 100% synthetic for 44 bucks! Amsoil is something like $70-80 for only a gallon. I know triax isnt popular, and maybe thats why its inexpensive? Hell ive only known about them for a week now. Anyone else have thoughts on them?
ENEOS Sustina have group VI synthetic base. Their viscosity super stable, especially easy to know the different with Valvoline Synpower I used before in winter. My car operate like the engine already at operating temperature but temp gauge still at all the way down C.
You mean Group IV? There is no Group 6.
Eneos sustina at least the 5W40 C3, doesn´t have any special additive or base, is just a GTL base III+ (Like Shell Ultra) with a normal mid saps additive pack.
Thank you so so much and merry Christmas to you and the team from Australia
Thank you Jon for every effort you make. What oil do you suggest for longer duration and maximum protection for our VA STIs?
Thanks for your question. We really like the Motul 8100 5w40 X-Cess because it has the full SAPS additive package. I would also recommend Redline 5W40 as well.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning What do you think of Amsoil Signature 5W40 Fully Synthetic oil?
Schaeffer now offers mid and full saps oil. Its in their 8000 series oils. Fyi
True Racing Oils have little or no detergents because it doesn't see lots of miles or time. Instead, replace the detergents with more oil.
Also, because there is much less chance for aeration/windage with little to no detergents/dispersants in the oil, especially at the high revs racing engines see constantly.
Excellent explanation of a confusing issue... re the catalytic converter problem.
Thanks for watching!
great video... I only run 8100 5w-40...
I just want to know that if there are oils that are better why are they not readily available in stores
I'd say that they are available, just not as widely available as the brands that first come to mind when you think of oil.
And in part, I'd say that this is because many people just don't put much thought into what oil they put in their car, and therefor a more expensive option just doesn't move like the less expensive oil.
Thanks for watching!
@@FlatironsTuning do you recomend redline oil on a 5.7 hemi
great professional info, thanks
Thanks for watching!
Hey I was looking at the Motul stuff and was wonder what the main difference is between the Eco and the X-cess was. I have a 19 STI and it burns the oem oil like mad, but doesn’t burn better oils I’ve tried (royal purple, ams oil) I change every 3000 so oil life isn’t my concern
Thanks for your question. For the 8100, Motul has a different name for each weight and formulation. In the case of the Eco-Nergy and the X-Cess, it is simply a difference between the weights (5w-30 and 5w-40). Some of the other 8100's do have different formulations, and there you would want to look at the SAPS they contain.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
whats the diff between red line euro & full synth red line? I have a vintage 2.5 Turbo dodge with flat tappet engine. rebuilt with 6K mi on it. getting a lil more oil dilution than im comfy with.... (nothing obviously wrong with engine bw). have been using Mobil 1 but as you say API influence may not work for my situation (no cat here too). maybe time to switch to higher level zinc oil...
The question that im having the most trouble answering is which viscocity. 5w30 or 5w40? Many people use and recommend 5w40 however the vehicle was designed according to subaru for 5w30. Are people just throwing a 40wt in there to account for the higher hths due to all of these resource conserving oils out there? Does subaru just care aboit meeting epa and 40wt truly is better? To my knowledge it all depends on the tolerances etc.. too thick an oil cant properly lubricate an engine.. so far ive decided to stick with 5w30 oils that also have the higher hths ratings and increased zddp like redline. Currently using rp hps 5w30 which has the higher hths and zddp content while maintaining the viscocity in the manual. I tried motul xcess 5w40 and my vehicle DID NOT like it. It pulled timing and dropped my DAM immediately which had my tuner puzzled because thsts the oil they use and recommend the most lol.
The white bottle Red Line 5W-30 is actually slightly MORE viscous in HTHSV rating than some of the lower end of the API viscosity range, labeled as 5W-40s out there!
How do you know which oils are more viscous than others? Other than the weight given? How do can I find out which 5w30 is more viscous than another 5w30 for example?@@nofascistsonmywatch
I live down under, where is the Shell, Castrol, Valvoline,Nulon etc in all of this, never heard of any of the brands shown here?
Sorry that you haven't heard of any of these, but hopefully some of them at least are available. Motul for one is a big international brand.
Thanks for watching!
Motul is definitely available down under
@@mayk3lll where? Super cheap? Auto barn? Bursons? Repco? Really we are so limited in the car scene to get our stock unless you know someone I'm a car enthusiast with about 4 cars and still can't a group to even hang with so I mostly just work on my cars and keep them looking great sounding great running great etc
@@andrewpaige9152 nah man none of the main stream shops..
Do a search here.. heaps in Sydney..
www.motul.com/au/en/resellers
Where you from Andrew?
You have to get out of Pep Boys and Auto-zone to know these brands.
Is it safe to run 300v in a daily, and for how many miles. I assume it doesn't have as much additives for longevity of oil as normal oils have. I ask because sometimes I like to push it and want the best for my engine. Thank you and great video
The strength of the oil wedge at 300V is 80% hydrocracking 2000 kg.cm2. For Redline oil 5W30 - 98% polyolester - 22 000 kg.sm2! But they won’t tell you that.
@@specpribor1784 Sorry, what does that mean in english? thanks
From Motul, they say that it is not formulated for long change duration, but I don't know how far you could run it safely. I'll see if I can get any specifics from them about it. They have come out with a new "Sport" oil that is Esther based as well that may be better suited for a 3,000 - 5,000 change interval.
For now, I can tell you that Redline will go 5,000 miles no problem, and it is partially Esther based.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
All the money you used in buying the 300V, and switch it out every 5000-7500 miles (assuming you are daily driving with a couple track days a year) only to have to rebuild the engine or transplant eventually....could of bought you perhaps x2 engines.
@@LoveLikeaHurricane What are you smoking???
My Hemi loves redline
Bet it would love amsoil even better
Does your hemi have the hemi tick
And what oil weight do you use ??
You guys are doing great stuff 👏👏👏
Thanks, and thanks for watching!
Idemitsu or Motul for a turbo charged Subaru?
We really like the Motul 8100 and Schaeffers for the Subaru engine.
Hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
I’ve been using Motul 300V Competition 5w-40 in my 95 e36 m3 for over two years now. That includes track days and daily driving!!! and I’ve been changing it regularly at about 5k mile intervals . Im about to send in my first oil sample to blackstone labs to see what analysis report we get back on the condition of the oil. They can’t tell me anything about my engine that I’m not already aware of lol but I’m still curious if I was running the ester oil for too many miles? or If it was loosing any wear protection properties? However, now it has come time for another oil change but that stuff is so expensive and money is tight so I’ve decided to switch to a more affordable product line such as, the 8100xcess or 8100 xmaxx or different brand entirely.
My options are amsoil/Motul since they are in the same price bracket or going with stuff that can be found off the shelf at most stores and Walmarts. I was looking at the castrol European and the valveoline euro or the mobil 1 euro last night at my local Walmart. I didn’t even know valvoline had made a European formula
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning TH-cam really needs to start allowing attachments to be also uploaded in the comments section so I could put up my oil sample test for the 300v for someone else to reference in the future 🤷🏼♂️
The Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro uses a group 4/5 base stock, and a decent additive package, but I did not know that it is on the shelves at Wally World?!?
Great vid! I currently use Motul 8100 X-Clean + 5w30 on my G37. So far so good, but what's difference bw that and the Xcess and Eco that also come in 5w30?
Thanks for your question. The difference is the additive packages in those oils. For instance, the X-Clean has low SAPS, so low zinc, where the Eco-Nergy has high SAPS, so high zinc. It is just a variance in the blend.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@FlatironsTuning I use xclean now. U say it has low saps do I need to run high saps? I run a audi ttrs at around 700hp. 3-5k oil changes
redline oil is all I use
Me too. 0w20 redline
Could i use redline on a 5.7 hemi with the hemi tick
If you don't have a car like the one behind him, then using a Group 3,4,5 Synthetic over the other wont matter much. All because the phosphourous component of zinc is being reduced, doesn't mean its not being substituted with Moly or Boron. Like if you have a Group 5 Ester base oil, there is no point in having loads of Calcium detergent in it as they both clean. Esters are being surpassed by Alkylated Napthalene as it is a true Synthetic Group 5+ and does not compete with the anti wear additives. PAO is great but ends up getting loaded with mineral oil anyway just to mix the additives and detergents as it is a poor cleaner on its own.
Good info. Oil groups are new to me. What are your thought. on Liqui Moly 5-40 and MOS2 additive for pro-tuned subaru motors?
Thanks for your question John. I'm familiar with Liquimoly, but we haven't stocked it in a while. If you are curious about it, I'd recommend you send a sample out and see how it compares to a few other oils.
Thanks for watching!
In LM only the Synthoil line are truly PAO oils. The Mos2 additive you can find in some oils in organic form is not a big deal, but the Ceratec is much much better.
What about carrier oils and additives? Are these pure,100% synthetic oils with no petroleum whatsoever?
What about oils with low calcium to avoid low speed pre-ignition.
Enjoy watching your videos. What do you think about Triax oils, such as the 0w40 or 5w30? I would love to see you do a video on these also.
Motul 8100 x cess full saps 5w40 are group 3 or 4 ???
This was a solid video. Really gets some new information out there on TH-cam.
Since the FA20DIT has naturally occurring carbon build up on it's intake valves from its EGR system, would a low SAPS or high SAPS oil be the preferred choice? I've been using Eneos 5w30 for the time being, and am unsure if I should switch to an 8100 or say with Eneos.
Thanks for your question! That is a tricky one.
The first thing that I'd recommend is to do both a new (VOA) and used analysis on the oil that you are using. See how it is effected in your change interval, and see if you can get a measure of the volatility of the oil. And if you want to switch to a new oil, do the same with the new sample. See how the analysis compare, and make your decision on which to stick with once you have that information.
Best of luck!
I suggest using a top cylinder oil/ cleaner that keeps the valves clean and lubricates the top piston ring. Lucas Engine Treatment works very good and so does Redline Fuel Treatment. There are many other good ones.
Also, install an oil condensator or catch can in the PCV line.. This may eliminate the build up, if the oil from the crankcase is coming through the PCV system and on to the valves.
A very low volatility percentage oil will also help a bunch with that problem.
I am using 5w40 MOTUL 8100xCase 💯% Synthetic On
2009 Honda City ivtec From INDIA
This Oil Is Best Or Not ???
Thank you for your question. That is definitely a good oil to be using. I don't think that I could say that there is a single best oil really.
As long as you are getting good results with that oil, I'd definitely stay with it.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning
Please Make Detail Video On 💯% Synthetic Engine Oil Vs Fully Synthetic Engine Oil
what are your thoughts on running motul 300v 5w-40 or 5w30 on a stock block ej205 that sees hard use occasionaly? what change intervals would you suggest for it?
used to run motul 8100 with change intervals of 3.5k miles
Thanks for your question. The 300V is definitely designed to stand up to high heat and abuse, but it is not designed to last thousands of miles. With 300V you would want to change the oil every couple of months, or at most at 3,000 miles. Ideally sooner than that.
If you are going for longer duration than that, I'd say stick with the 8100, or look at Motul Sport which has an Esther base but is designed to run longer than the 300V (at most 5,000 miles).
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning it really helped me! thank you!
i will give 300v a try as i am ok with 2,5k-3k oil change intervals.
I think it will help maintain a better health of all bottom end bearings than lets say motul 8100.
thanks again!
@@FlatironsTuning Ive been using motul 300v in my toyota avensis 1.6 2001 model for 12 years. From 100000klm to 234000klm. When i change it to liqui moly synthoil high teck at 234000, the color of the oil get total black at 2500klm and lost 1 liter at the dip stick. It has a lot of built up the engine from 300v had using. The 300v change it every 10000klm, to long interval for this oil. Thank you very much for the video fl tuning, i really enjoyed watching it!!
Motul 300v don't use more than 15% of ester. Red Line around 60% of ester.
What would you recommend for Subaru turbo cars? Thanks!
Thanks for the question. We have run all of these oils at one time or another with good results.
As long as it is a high zinc oil, you should be good.
Thanks for your question, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning even for a stock turbo charged subaru?
@@duckyxiong8 I would definitely recommend an oil with high zinc content even for a stock Turbo Subaru.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Schaeffer's Racing Oil FTW!!!!!
What is the cost of the Motul 300V per quart?
Thanks for your question. It comes in 2 Liter tin's, so it is about $16.00 per quart.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I've been using shell Rotella T6 for the engine and shell spirax S6 for the drivetrain with no issues so far, holds up quite well for smell and sight test between change intervals. I've seen Rotella T6 all over the forums but didn't hear any mention of it in the video. Any personal thoughts on it for long time use?
Thanks for your question. Since it is a diesel oil, we didn't want to go down that road since there is a whole separate discussion of running diesel oil in a gasoline car.
That being said, we have done it, and know a lot of people around here that do. But T6 does fall into the same category of oils that have changed formulation. the zinc content has dropped in the last few years, though I don't think quite as much in the gasoline oils.
Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks for making informative content without the typical dubstep/vaping boy racer intro. Gained another subscriber. 👍
Rotella now makes a version for gasoline powered trucks. It's called Rotella Gas Truck.
@@tarquineous Currently using Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w-20 in my 2017 Toyota Tacoma 3.5l V-6. So far my truck runs great on this oil.
schaeffer all around, best oil out there
False!! Amsoil Signature Series is better by a length as great as the pacific ocean.
How about when its -30F?
@@NorthlanderMN Amsoil SS Oil has a pour point of about -60F.
Did heard about it, but it's hard when any car that has some excessive wear always & eventually run redline and excessive wear is no more...
Redline 5w-50 is the best oil period
Can you testing TRiAX oil???
That would be really interesting
guess AMS OIL wasn't good enough to be included :/
Thanks for your comment. We don't have any first-hand experience with Amsoil, so we did not include it in our discussion.
Hopefully it was still helpful for you.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I get Walmart/Costco 100% Synthetic Motor Oil for less than $15.00 on 5 USA quarts, do you have any similar price???
I really doubt it, it's more likely group III oil for that price. Cheapest group IV has been Triax by the gallon $31, or 5 qt jug $34
Great info I needed to see this.
I use the amsoil euro 0w40 full saps
Wondering about the group they are in ?
My guess will be 4 since it says 100% and equals to the same motul ll01 that its there.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is synthesised from natural gas/methane.
What group is that.
group 3
Group 3 and priced like a Group 4. Overpriced. Same with Castrol Edge. You are buying the Marketing.
Group 3+
Thank you.
Driven is PAO, not Ester.
9:35 An oil analysis every 1000 miles?
Spend a dollar to save a dime.
Helpful advise.
Dont sleep on amsoil. 100% synthetic base and additives
Schaeffer oil is the best in the world!
AMSOIL
Best oil
Jstar Dhami no motul is, they use esters which have been proven to be the best lubricant for engines due to its polarity which causes it to stick to every piece of metal it comes in contact with
@@thatguy1919 according to engineers amsoil signature series is the best.
Johnny can you site this information?
@@thatguy1919 I been searching ( just starting my search) and seeing different opinions. I've been seeing talk about Motul lately. Sounds like it's worth looking into. Where can I find some information on their formula and/or testing ? I will search for it but since I was here I thought I'd ask and maybe save some time. So many oils and opinions, I figured it would be best to look at the data myself. Thanks for any input you can provide for me. Greatly appreciated !
Royal purple is a scam. Purple water.
Your opinion is interesting to me because I've seen Royal purple be tested on numerous non-biased TH-cam channels and it consistently ranks in the top three usually after Amsoil and Schafer's.
When I had my engine rebuilt, after break-in, I was using a high quality oil but I was unhappy with the level of engine noise that I could hear. I bit the bullet and paid the money for Royal purple HPS since I don't run a cat, and literally upon startup all of the engine noise was gone immediately. I became a firm believer at that point and I've been using Royal Purple since. It strikes the right balance for me between cost and effectiveness.
@@AtalixZero my opinion comes from black rock oil sample lab in Corvallis Oregon and the motor was a 2006 Subaru sti with 380whp and 400ft pounds torque to the wheels may be good at first but once the oil is contaminated with ethanol it breaks down really quick. Rotella t6 5w40 resists fuel dilution really well, obviously amsoil and schafers are great oils by analysis, but rotella is bang for buck the best, and shares similar levels in shaders and amsoil and Harley-Davidson oil in boron, zinc.phospho., Harley oil is actually one of the best on the market, I’m not just saying it cuz the name. The oil analysis with the 20w50 was absolutely amazing oil on the track in my Subaru with oil analysis, it’s just really expensive oil… but the Walmart is my go to break in oil since I change it right after start up, I’m not spending 150 bucks to start up my Subaru and drain the oil after a fresh rebuild thus 3 Walmart super tech oil changes then swap to rotella for daily, then track days or sand dunes I will run Harley 20w50. Since I can get it locally, if I order oil online I get motul 5w40 and again my choices are all based off oil analysis and research. Don’t care what the name is on the bottle.
@@HeidiFegles appreciate the reply. I've never run E85 and never had issues with RP. I did one lab sample months into the car's new motor and the sample came back exactly as expected with the appropriate levels of seen on various reviews channels. Maybe the formula has changed?
@@AtalixZero they change every time they blend it naturally. And go with the analysis over brand anyday. If you run 92 octane pump royal purple does good. Just not as well with ethanol compared to rotella. Ethanol is hard on everything though. Even rotella breaks down and looks like crap after 3000 miles on ethanol running it hard, when royal purple came out I ran it in my crf450 motocross bike with no issues. And I do believe that royal purple is not what it used to be. As is every oil is not what it could be due to the epa forcing people to change the ingredients. That’s the problem the epa forcing change.
What is your name man?
Live in US and never heard of any of the brands shown here.... talk about 100% syn sold everywhere in US. .... sorry ... I do know about Red Line..
Redline has been around a long time. Mostly in speed shops and high performance shops. Motul is from France. A big operation there! Their catalog has pages and pages of different products. The most I have ever seen. They are known for having the "Spec" on the bottle for Ford, Renault, Porche, GM, etc.
Is 8100 x - cess 100% synthetic like amsoil
Thanks for your question. Yes, the Motul 8100 line of oils are all 100% synthetic.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Add now Ravenol from Germany and Extreme GTI VR2 from Rusia. Check and ull see what im talking about 👍
When running e85 what oil would be the best to use?
That is a difficult question to answer. Many people around her are using Schaeffer's with good results. I'd think that the Motul 8100 and Redline would tolerate the E85 well also.
The best advice would be to have your oil tested at your change interval so that you know how it holds up.
If the oil you are using is showing signs of contamination or breaking down, then try something else.
Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks for the advice. It is greatly appreciated. Through your videos I've done alot to the car learning through ya'll, even down to switching my 5 speed trans on my 08 WRX hatch to a 6 speed.
@@MoDeeRUN that is great to hear. Always feel free to reach out if you have any questions, or if you need any parts!
Glad that we could help!
ERICMD82 when we were running alcohol back in the day we ran caster oil also called bean oil. Just saying
Redline oil!!!!!
Compare the german highest quality, the USA mineral oil Group 3 (HC), they're call Synthetic but you can not say in Germany.
If you using Top fuel , they 're pure additive. not the using real world on the road.
The USA maker avoid using Ester cause they can not competitive prices and cost so they add the zinc additive for get low cost, high margin but bad evironment, they don't care.👎🏻
Thanks for the comment. Yes, the standards for what you can call Synthetic Oil is more strict in Europe. That is one of the reasons that folks here in the US prefer European synthetic oil.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
MPT 30K all the way
They're still in business??
There is no such thing as a synthetic oil. It’s a sales pitch. It is better because the synthetic oil that’s just mineral oil, is filtered so all the oil particles are the same size. This allows for way better lubrication. Regular oil has many different particle sizes and makes it not as consistent for oiling. It’s like riding on a sheet of plywood on golf balls for synthetic oil. And regular oil is like throwing some base balls in their and expecting to roll over them smoothly. All base oil is the same comes from the same place. It’s the small differences in additives that change the brand. Most good oils have boron in it and that helps zink and ohesphorusbwork better
Why should I have to pay a lab to tell me what is in the oil that I am purchasing.? Just like all the ingredients are in the food that we buy to eat, all oil that we purchase should also have all the ingredients that are in that oil we buy to use in our engine, including the base stock it is made from!